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Thread 2940518

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Anonymous No.2940518 [Report] >>2940521 >>2940536 >>2940584 >>2940776 >>2940782 >>2940925 >>2941587
sunbeam toaster 220v
i recently ordered sumbeam t-35-1 from ebay and i want to convert it into 220v
from what i've researched i want nichrome wire worthy of resistance around 40 ohm and kinda stuck what diameter/ohm per meter to buy
have anyone converted the sunbeam toaster to 220v and if there so how hard was it? and what consumable bits i need? the part where nichrome wire connects to looks bit tricky to work on and on that regard i also dont know much to buy
when it arrives i will upload some pics of mine
Anonymous No.2940521 [Report] >>2940522
>>2940518 (OP)
Its a conundrum. Im unsure how you'd convert it to 220v.

A simple way to go could be to use a big unsightly step-down transformer. You'd just need to be sure it able to handle the 15a or 1500 watts. A toaster this likely draws close to maximum current from the outlet.
>Pic rel/ has enough.
Anonymous No.2940522 [Report] >>2940526 >>2940528 >>2940586
>>2940521
i am doing this because i dont want to use that hunk of metal
theoretically i just can open it up and rewind the nichrome wires with the right spec and changing the switch would convert the toaster itself to 220v
Anonymous No.2940526 [Report] >>2940527
>>2940522
That would be a lot better. Im just providing an alternate solution.

Assuming youre in the UK you're outlet should supply enough amps for the toaster. According to this website the toaster used 1275 watts which should work your your standard 220v 13a grounded outlets.
https://www.timstoasters.com/models-years/
Anonymous No.2940527 [Report] >>2940529
>>2940526
you mean i can just hook it to mains and rev it up as-is?
Anonymous No.2940528 [Report]
>>2940522
That would be a lot better. Im just providing an alternate solution that would likely yield 100% success.

Assuming youre in the UK, your outlet should supply enough amps for the toaster. According to this website the toaster uses 1275 watts which should work your standard 220v 13a grounded outlets.
https://www.timstoasters.com/models-years/
Anonymous No.2940529 [Report] >>2940530 >>2940531 >>2940587
>>2940527
I had to fix my spelling.

Yes, that big hunkly block of crap would enable you to sue the toaster without modification..

This cpuld be worth it if you just want to use the toaster to entertain guests. If youre trying to permanently modify it for daily use, I dont have the electronics expertise to advise there.
Anonymous No.2940530 [Report]
>>2940529
Oh shit ive ruined your thread with deleting posts. Sorry
Anonymous No.2940531 [Report] >>2940534
>>2940529
yeah i know that would work but it's kinda too big for daily usage
Anonymous No.2940534 [Report] >>2940535 >>2941587
>>2940531
There may be a more elegant solution in the form of a switching power supply.
You'd have to search around. Im afraid the 1275 watt output is still going to make the unit rather chunky but you may be able to find something more compact that the primitive step down transformer.

If you can picture what a 1300 watt pc power supply lookis, you'll get an idea of the sort size youre dealing with.
Anonymous No.2940535 [Report] >>2940546
>>2940534
they are just 4 nichrome wires, a bimetal switch and that is pretty much everything
adding all those doesnt make much sense to me
Anonymous No.2940536 [Report] >>2940537
>>2940518 (OP)
Run it in series with a US sourced water kettle
OR EVEN RUN TWO TOASTERS IN SERIES
KEK
Anonymous No.2940537 [Report] >>2940538
>>2940536
bruh
Anonymous No.2940538 [Report] >>2940540
>>2940537
well I got another one for you
assuming you dont care about fucking up the gridmore than a few LED lights and chinese usb chargers) just put a half eave rectumfryer in series et voila, half the power from 220V
Anonymous No.2940540 [Report] >>2940544
>>2940538
wouldnt it still be like 2x the output
Anonymous No.2940544 [Report] >>2940547
>>2940540
huh? 50 times a second, yes. But on average no. The wire wont transition to plasma just because it sees a bit more than it was intended to see for a fraction of a second.
The power will be half.
You coukd even use a phase chopper.
Anonymous No.2940546 [Report] >>2940548
>>2940535
Yea, I cant seem to find a switching power supply which output ac voltage.. most of that is designed to output DC. Theres still the big old step down tranformer..

You'll need to get advise from someone more knowledgeable than me to modify it.
Anonymous No.2940547 [Report] >>2940552
>>2940544
no no no i mean like AFTER the rectifier
shouldnt it be the 4x not 2x? like, p=v^2/r
Anonymous No.2940548 [Report] >>2940558
>>2940546
i put several suggestions up there that wouls all work (some are humorous) but I want to add:
a SMPS would be atupid overkill, prohibitively expensive and bulky but if OP insists:
DC is not an issue. It will work just fine.
Anonymous No.2940552 [Report] >>2940554
>>2940547
I said put a half wave rectifier in there.
That way you get 1/2 Vpp
Were not smoothing anything here and werw not rectifying full waves. In that case one would need to do the math real quick but we aint fags hence we aint doing any of that. Instead we rely on the fact that half of the energy is dissipated in every half wave and thus dissipating every other half wave of a 220V supply is the same as dissipating every half wave of a 110V supply. Easy as.
Anonymous No.2940554 [Report] >>2940559
>>2940552
yeah and after the rectifying it still is like 3000w or am i getting osmething wrong
Anonymous No.2940558 [Report] >>2940560
>>2940548
Oh i see. Two toasters in series. Thats funny.. I need to see a schematic to understand. I no guru.
Anonymous No.2940559 [Report] >>2940564 >>2940580
>>2940554
So I'm doing math now?
1.3kw at 110V is a rough 12A so 10 Ohms.
Thats 22A at 220V gives 4.4 kW using the full wave and 2.2 kW using the half wave. Close enough aint it?
But I also recommended a phase chopper, just use that it can be bozght for cheap, comes preassembled, can go into a wallbox, set and forget to the desired power level.
Chinks sell that shit as 'motor speed controller and it's fused at 10Amps. So itll do.
Anonymous No.2940560 [Report] >>2940566
>>2940558
Well buy two toasters.
Then very importantly, first connect the PE wires. They are yellow green or something.
Of the remaining 4 wires connect any two.
The other two go to the new plug, also the PE wire needs to T off to the plug.
Anonymous No.2940564 [Report] >>2940567
>>2940559
Aha this is getting good.

So youre saying all you need to do with is a potentiometer shiz?
Anonymous No.2940565 [Report]
/diy/sis... i expected better than those......
Anonymous No.2940566 [Report]
>>2940560
I might aswell...
so at the bottom edge is your new plug, just use any of the two cords if the plug fits a socket, or get one fron HW store
in the two upper corners theres a toaster each.
Of each toaster connect either the brown or blue to the plug cable so it matches color. This leaves a brown and a blue dangling. Connect those. Most importantly connect all 3 yellow green ones.
Anonymous No.2940567 [Report] >>2940576
>>2940564
yes its what im saying
theres probably a thyristor in there
so thats a switch that can be teiggered to go on and it goes off and remains off when the current falls to 0
and that happens 100 times per second with mains
so all the control scheme does is to wait for AC to cross zero and after a delay that you adjust trigger the thyristor
if its very late in the half wave you only get that last bit, if its in the middle you get half of it and if its early you get full power.
Fuck with the mains real bad but depending on how you see these things it might not be a you problem.
Anonymous No.2940576 [Report] >>2940580
>>2940567
So youre saying the potentiometer shiz can be bad for the wiring in the building?.

Im not understand why it would fuck up the mains. Can you elaborate?

Its seems like you got it OP. Heres the [link.](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO3rPQp) Its size is inoffensive is simple to operate.
Anonymous No.2940580 [Report] >>2940665
>>2940576
No it's no problem for the wiring. Thi k of it as littering in everyones grid, KEK. But people do that already by operating all kinds of cheap trash they buy online and plug in.
Just get the thing and turn it up slow. Get the one I posted
>>2940559
because all others will be the same only with a stupid enclosure added and 'voltage readings' from 0 to 100 on the dial and a readout that will only confuse you.
Instead just turn it up slow, once happy leave it there, maybe lock it. If you can measure power draw, otherwise go by feel and prefer a slow toaster over a popped one.
More on littering in everyones mains:
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/346361/mains-voltage-waveform-on-oscilloscope
If designers of infrastructure only ever thought of what a bored guy could do. Where I am you can unironically push oxygen backwards into town gas for quite the distance unimpeded. Similar keks can be had from the electrical grid.
Anonymous No.2940584 [Report] >>2940585
>>2940518 (OP)
>i recently ordered sumbeam t-35-1 from ebay and i want to convert it into 220v
you can't.
Anonymous No.2940585 [Report] >>2940589 >>2940591 >>2940593
>>2940584
well i will do and keep you updated
all i need are nichrome wire and some crimps it seems from the internal heating element photos i looked at
Anonymous No.2940586 [Report] >>2940687
>>2940522
>theoretically i just can open it up and rewind the nichrome wires with the right spec and changing the switch would convert the toaster itself to 220v
you really are this stupid? have you seen the inside of one of those? it's all mechanical.

change the switch? there is no switch.

don't forget the spring that raises and lowers it. you will need a new one calibrated for 220v

either way it doesn't matter you won't do it.
Anonymous No.2940587 [Report] >>2940598 >>2943917
>>2940529
>I dont have the electronics expertise to advise there.
there's no electronics in that toaster.
Anonymous No.2940589 [Report] >>2940592
>>2940585
no you won't you don't even understand how it works. the whole things is mechanical, you don't even understand how the raise and lower mechanism works. you're fucking stupid and you won't do it.
Anonymous No.2940591 [Report]
>>2940585
here moron, I will help you. this is the schematic from the service manual.
Anonymous No.2940592 [Report] >>2940595
>>2940589
yeah then you explain how the raise/fall mechanism works
Anonymous No.2940593 [Report] >>2940594 >>2941587
>>2940585
here is what it looks like inside jamal
Anonymous No.2940594 [Report] >>2940597
>>2940593
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1065925/Sunbeam-T20b.html?page=3#manual
fuck you i got the whole manual
Anonymous No.2940595 [Report] >>2940687
>>2940592
here ya go simple simon
Anonymous No.2940597 [Report]
>>2940594
to bad your to stupid too understand it.
Anonymous No.2940598 [Report] >>2940599 >>2940600
>>2940587
Yes there are. Thats an electronic device.
Anonymous No.2940599 [Report]
>>2940598
no it's not it's mechanical. there are no electronic components in the toaster.
Anonymous No.2940600 [Report] >>2940601 >>2940605 >>2940687 >>2942086
>>2940598
there are no resistors, capacitors, inductors, or even transformers in it.
Anonymous No.2940601 [Report] >>2940602
>>2940600
But theres wires.
Anonymous No.2940602 [Report] >>2940606
>>2940601
wires are not electronic components.
Anonymous No.2940603 [Report] >>2940605 >>2940609
cant i just leave the center element as-is and fiddle with the knob under?
Anonymous No.2940605 [Report] >>2940609
>>2940600
seems you are the toaster master, so what is the problem with >>2940603 this?
i dont have one in my hand right now and that makes me hard to figure things out
Anonymous No.2940606 [Report] >>2940607 >>2940609
>>2940602
Yes they are. You have a very hard time admitting defeat dont you?
Anonymous No.2940607 [Report] >>2940609 >>2940611
>>2940606
at least that anon seems to know some stuff about the toaster so i am willing to hear more from him
Anonymous No.2940609 [Report] >>2940687
>>2940603
nope the wattage of the unit has to stay the same for 220v so no. you will have to calibrate it if you were to rewire it. there is no method to do this, since that was done at the factory with component parts. all repairs of the toaster are: remove this and replace it with a new part.

>>2940605
you have the manual you figure it out.

>>2940606
AI is wrong. also your an imbecile for using AI to prove a point. disregarded.

>>2940607
do not try to rewire the toaster, it's a fine tuned precision piece of equipment. I have 3 of them.

as far as I know they did not make a 220v version. if you want to use it, get a down converter transformer that can output 15 amps continuous.

you can do something illegal and just split off one phase of 220 and plug the toaster in to that. but IDK if UK outlets can handle the amps.
Anonymous No.2940611 [Report] >>2940612 >>2940622
>>2940607
take a UK plug, connect one wire to one of the flats, and the other wire to the ground. plug it in to the outlet. viola 120v. no idea how that would effect your circuit breakers. but it would work.
Anonymous No.2940612 [Report]
>>2940611
oh I'd check the voltage of this setup before using it.

mic drop
Anonymous No.2940613 [Report] >>2940614 >>2940683
i have no idea what 'grades' mean on that
Anonymous No.2940614 [Report] >>2940683
>>2940613
but i feel like it is technically possible? the manual even states how to change the center element wire itself
Anonymous No.2940622 [Report] >>2940623
>>2940611
Don't listen to this shitstain. They have a word for what this mental giant is describing. It is called a SHORT and it is bad. Not only will it cause the ground to be live for any other devices on that circuit but it will also trip things like GFCI outlets and breakers.

In the UK, just like US 120 volt wiring, they have a hot and a neutral. If you connect to either the hot or the neutral you are getting 240 volts. They do not do it like the US 240 volt wiring (its dumb, we know). There is not two 120 volt hot lines that are out of phase which each other and 'add up' to 240 volts.
Anonymous No.2940623 [Report] >>2940687
>>2940622
i guess the cheapest '''solutoin''' is using a thyristor based stuff right?
Anonymous No.2940663 [Report] >>2940683 >>2940687
if this is what 'carefully calibrated' then my ass is calibrated
Anonymous No.2940665 [Report] >>2940667 >>2940687
>>2940580
Would the large unsightly transformer cause less of this "littering" to the waveform than the small potentiometer with the "thyristor"?
Anonymous No.2940667 [Report] >>2940686
>>2940665
proper transformer setup should cause little to none
Anonymous No.2940683 [Report] >>2940684
>>2940613
>>2940614
the company no longer exists so none of that matters.

>>2940663
the repair tech was not rewiring it for 220 you idiot. just putting the known amount. gibbering gooner.
Anonymous No.2940684 [Report]
>>2940683
k yap whatever i'll do it
Anonymous No.2940686 [Report]
>>2940667
These toasters are neat. Maybe i will pick one up sometime.
Anonymous No.2940687 [Report]
>>2940600
That's where you're wrong kid. Amongst other thing there is at least one resistor in it and it is the main attraction.
>>2940586
>calibrated for 220V
KEK. The next moron. It was even posted below
>>2940595
that the switch only takes the breads suface temperature as it's input. Pretty nice since it will not only control for the thermal mass / moisture / etc. of the slice of bread but also fluctuation on the input.
>>2940623
yes
>>2940663
this
>>2940609
makes this anon look like an illiterate nigger again.
>>2940665
Yes you couldn't tell a transformer was hooked up by looking at the grid. But honestly. All the nor. ies do exactly that when they buy stupid trinkets from china that have no power factor correction, capacitive droppers, rectumfryers and what not right at the input. Every LED light or mobile ohone charger that was cheap does this. You're only doing it for 1.3kW and they do it for 10W a pop. And how long does the toast even toast?
So long story short:
Yes you can theoretically give it new resistor wires and it will operate the same on 220V. Huge pain in the ass.
You can put it on a transformer but its heavy, bulky and pricey, especially at 1.3kW.
SMPS are a bit better but still bulky.
Just get the SCR / motor speed controller / Thyristor / phase angle controller / chopper and slap it on. Like I said you can even put it into a wallbox. Set it once, best to measure power while setting. Then just leave it alone.
Anonymous No.2940776 [Report]
>>2940518 (OP)
I've got one of these their cool as hell and work great. I also do refrigeration and in some dual temp cases when we switch them to medium temp they use a diode to lower the wattage of the defrost heaters could this work?
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-general-semiconductor-diodes-division/VS-T40HF60/357870
Anonymous No.2940782 [Report]
>>2940518 (OP)
Anon juat buy TWO OF THEM and slap them in series. Or just fucking use a fuck huge resistor to drop tge voltage down.
Anonymous No.2940783 [Report] >>2940867
Can you just PWM 220V half the time?
Anonymous No.2940867 [Report]
>>2940783
This was already suggested up there but without retarded speak for 'I'm stupid so I will use technical terms I don't understand to aplear competent'.
You dont 'PWM' mains 'half the time' you just half wave rectify. also OP has zero interest in any modulation.
Now if OP did that OP would have a way overpowered toaster it might even pop.
Go play with arduinos.
Anonymous No.2940925 [Report] >>2940972 >>2941181
>>2940518 (OP)
The solenoid might be a problem. There will be less current (1/2 as much) so less grab. The spring overcome will need to be relieved otherwise rewind the solenoid.
Anonymous No.2940972 [Report]
>>2940925
Anon's got a point that is valid and wasn't brought up before but yeah I'm with him. Most likely you wont find an issue but if you do rewinding the solenoid just takes cheap, thin laquer wire. But me being lazy, i'd first try messing with the core, the spring or a helper spring.
I have a solenoid in the lab, I just got a number of rubber bands on it, determined through experimentation, this way it reliably opens but I can close it using a simple programmable arbitary waveform generator. Otherwise I'd have to feed it i'ts own power and give it a MOSFET and all that shit. Nah. Not doing that if it can be avoided.
Anonymous No.2941181 [Report] >>2941598
>>2940925
there isn't one
and the up/down motion is done by pretensioned nichrome wires
Anonymous No.2941446 [Report] >>2941977
shit i figured out so far
Anonymous No.2941587 [Report]
>>2940518 (OP)
>>2940593
Looks easier than a modern toaster at least, doesn’t look like you’ll have to drill out any rivets pushed into mica sheets.
You’d have to first get the toaster, take it apart and measure the length and resistance of the nichrome, and then calculate its resistance per unit length, and buy some resistance wire with four times (?) the resistance per unit length.

Shame all the elements are in series, if there were some in parallel you could easily rewire them in series to get higher voltage operation.

>>2940534
Oh yeah I’ve seen some tiny cheap Indian voltage converting socket adapters that just use phase-fired TRIAC control to set an approximate 120VRMS output. Never seen such a thing sold here in the 1st world, must be awful for EMI and I bet they run hot as shit on big resistive loads.
Or maybe it switched off when the voltage got up to 170Vpk, intended to work with SMPSs.

But maybe someone makes such a device that skips full mains cycles with a TRIAC, avoiding the EMI issue. Still might trip a breaker.
Anonymous No.2941598 [Report] >>2941599
>>2941181
So it doesn't pop? Throw it away OP what the hell were you thinking?
Anonymous No.2941599 [Report] >>2941613 >>2941616
>>2941598
what do you mean by pop it just gradually raises the bread slices
Anonymous No.2941613 [Report]
>>2941599
Oh I see that is cool. metal heat soak timer like a bimetallic strip but with hot springs. It might all work perfectly then - the wires will heat slower and trigger later, but the heating elements will be less hot, there will be more time with a weaker toasting heat perfect!
Anonymous No.2941616 [Report]
>>2941599
I found your video anyway OP
and by half speed above I meant double speed because you're go 120->220 sorry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vcdbtAca0Y
Anonymous No.2941977 [Report]
>>2941446
i think further progression is impossible without getting the actual thing in hand
i might need a shitty spot welder or depending on the construction i might be able to get away with some crimps
Anonymous No.2942000 [Report]
op here
bought a broken toaster too so if something goes south i can replace shit back to normal i would assume
or gather parts in good condition to make a franken one lol
Anonymous No.2942086 [Report]
>>2940600
>there are no resistors in a resistive heating element
Anonymous No.2942147 [Report]
Am I like completely retarded or is everyone way over-complicating this? Those Sunbeam toasters are all electro-mechanical and the only thing that really controls it is the rate of heating. Let's say its' a 1500 watt heater in there. Resistance = v^2/p so (240^2)/1500=38.4 ohms.

Consult chart attached and you're good to go.
Anonymous No.2943917 [Report] >>2943920
>>2940587
Can confirm. Used to repair those. They came in 240 volts here.
Anonymous No.2943920 [Report]
>>2943917
are you aussie or smth