>>24561560"Ireland is a shithole" is kind of the whole point of Joyce's work, much of which he wrote any place but Ireland, and made a point at the end of his texts to underline that the works were written in such-and-such cities, information on which he could easily have remained silent, but didn't want to. Toward the end of Portrait, when Cranly speaks of "this stinking dunghill of a world", he might as well be naming the country of Ireland specifically. A few pages later, Joyce/Stephen gets the hell out (of Ireland), and Joyce concludes the text:
Dublin 1904
Trieste 1914
The Book of Kells (on which I did an extended research project, motivated entirely by the Penguin choice for the FW book cover, shown in the OP) was itself stolen c. 1000, and later recovered "under a sod", that is, buried rather crudely and probably in a very shallow patch of dirt. The thought is that the thief or thieves stole the book primarily to get whatever fancy, bejewelled cover it once had (which was ripped off), leaving the text behind in Irish dunghill soil.