all you need

Pic rel is unironically all i need.

>>2038151
>battery dies
>crank arm de-laminates
>Aids fluid leaks from hoses
>usb corrodes to fuck
>disc warps
>plastic pawl part #34456443 in brifter part breaks(no replacement available)
Kex

>>2038153
Wrench monkey at my LBS will fix it for me.

>>2038148 (OP)
>3 speed
I NEED LESS

just give it to me guys. if I were to convert my 3x7 to single speed once the components get worn out. how can I do it?

is it possible to buy chainring and rear cog exactly the size im using?

>>2038159
>how can I do it?
It's pretty straightforward, but two details determine what options are available.

1st, does your rear hub accept freewheels or cassettes? It's slightly more likely that it's cassette, but I've seen 3x7 freewheel setups before.

2nd, your rear dropouts are not the vertical type? There's a Sheldon Brown image somewhere showing different types. Again, just going off the era when 3x7 was around, they're likely the horizontal type.

>chainring and rear cog exactly the size im using?
For freewheel conversion, generally only 16, 18, 20t freewheels are available. But there are two companies (Sturmey-Archer $ and White Industries $$$) that make every size from 16-22 in 1t increments.
For cassette conversion, it's whatever cog you can repurpose, so there are more options. Anything 12t or higher.
So... maybe. But in either case you should be able to get a gearing that's close to your favored combo.

If you answer the first two questions, I can go into specifics a bit more.

Unfortunately i live near these things called hills, if everything was more flat then yeah sure id probably just ride a fixed track bike with a huge front ring around

>>2038306
I honestly barely know shit about bicycles in general so I will just post the pic and let you evaluate, sorry.

I rarely shift and mostly just use 2-3 out of 7 rear cogs no matter what chainring I use, so the goal is to change it to single setup that still let me coast normally (otherwise it's just like a fixed gear right? I stop pedaling and it starts braking?)

>>2038321
No worries. There was a time when I didn't anything about bikes, except that I liked riding them. It looks like model of bike vertical dropouts, and comes with a cassette rear wheel.

With singlespeed, you still need some way of tensioning your chain. Right now, your rear derailer is doing that work. There's five ways I know of doing it.

Easy mode is having a frame with horizontal dropouts/track fork ends, so you can scoot the wheel back and forth a little.
You can also mount a 'chain tensioner' or old rear derailer, and use the springs inside that to tension your chain. This is what I'd recommend.
The last three all work, but they are either expensive, or tinkerer's projects: eccentric rear hub/eccentric bottom bracket, 'ghost ring', 'magic gear'.

What I would recommend is using an old rear derailer. No shifter, no cables. The idea is you wind both the high & low adjustment screws in, to match the position of where your cog is. (The screws also prevent the RD from moving in or out.) From there on, the springs inside the derailer tension your chain.
If you look at a Paul Comp Melvin, you can see how it's kind of a stripped down derailer. There are other designs, but they all boil down to the same idea: at least one spring and one pulley to tension your chain.

Because you would be single speed, any derailer would work, but road ones with short cages are slightly better, just because there's less of an arm sticking out/less to bend. When putting it together, you cut your chain to an appropriate length, so that the RD is somewhere between half-tensioned and maxed out. But there's a fair bit of leeway--you can always take another link out of your chain later.

>>2038321
For having a single cog in the back, you would get a set of cassette spacers, and install them on the freehub: some spacers, the cog, some spacers, the lockring. Because the order of the spacers doesn't matter, you can fine tune where the cog sits, so that your chain is as straight as possible. You can use any chainring position (outer/middle/inner), and just move the spacers around to get a good chainline.

For where to get a single cog, the cheap option is to disassemble a cassette, but you can also buy them to get different colors, choose steel or aluminum, etc. For instance, there's a company called Box that sells cogs with a wider base, like this:
boxcomponents.com/products/box-one-cnc-cogs
Seems like a nice feature. But as long as you use a stack of spacers that's the right overall width, and the lockring is tight, there shouldn't be a problem with the cog wiggling, or biting into your freehub.

That's sort of it for the overview. You can pretty much always swap a bike to single speed, and usually do it on the cheap.

>>2038363
thank you for the detailed answer. all of this seems out of my knowledge for now. I guess I will just translate this (im not native english speaker) and go to a bike shop, ask which option is most doable in real time.

all my life I was just using the most basic bike (no derailleurs at all) so suddenly all of this became very complex.
oh and assume I change to single speed or 3 speeds successfully. are there anything that I can do to make my bike coast faster/better? so far the coasting of my lasts kinda long, but isn't very fast to my taste

>>2038148 (OP)
speed is never free

>>2038148 (OP)
I tested this one fancy, belt-driven, 11 speed IGH bike the other day and it was something else.
Sure it was a silly fred sled ""gravel"" rocket with hydro dicks and electronic shifting, but the concept of hassle-less (as in NO lubing) belt + the gargantuan range of 11 gears in one sleek (in fact it was _fat_, so fat it weighted the bike back lmao) hub really spoke to me. Would be perfect for the daily commuter.
Ah well.

>>2038365
The work is maybe more simple than the description.

Watch this big titty mature do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMbDgQKukeg

She swaps freehub bodies (the part where she pulls the axle out); you can skip that because you already have the most common freehub type.
For a mtb those singlespeed tensioners are more common because they have a stronger spring vs an old derailer.

>>2038148 (OP)
>single speed bike
>sit and pedal for level road
>stand and pedal for uphill
>coast for downhill
all you need

>>2038148 (OP)
how hard are they to service?

>>2038148 (OP)
I just got one and it's fucking great.
so easy to adjust too
question though, can i shift while being still or do I need movement?

>>2038148 (OP)
What are the good ones? Sturmey Archer or Shimano?

>>2039818
shifting while still is one of the great features of a hub.

>>2040024
I just couldn't find any info about it.
and I tried shifting under power first time I rode.... oof

>>2040057
yah it takes a bit of getting used to after a lifetime of derailleurs

actually I got a bike with 8 speed Shimano nexus now and it's really nice
my my 3apeed is awkward. lowngear not low enough for hills and fast gear is a bit too fast

>>2040328
in that specific case you can lower both the fast and slow IGH gearing at the same time by putting a smaller ring on your crank, or a bigger one on the hub.

>>2040338
too much work for me. I don't even know how to take igh wheels off

>>2040328
>lowngear not low enough for hills and fast gear is a bit too fast
If we examine this statement further we realize that low is not low enough and high is too fast is because your legs are weak af. If you don't feel like low is too low and high isn't enough, you're a beta weak af leglette

>>2040361
I don't know, my thighs are pretty damn thicc but that's for pleasure not for biking
though it does involve a lot of riding, if you know what I mean

>>2040350
I think I didn't explain it properly.
you change a gear on the drivetrain to get a different ratio. that way, the gearing is lower before it even gets to the IGH.

>>2040384
oh that makes more sense.
I still don't know how to do that... no tools
I do have my old bike but it's a derailer bike

ade IGHs a lot less efficient? so for the same effort I put in I'm gonna be slower? and how much?

>>2040387
The drivetrain losses of an IGH bike is about 5-10% compared to a derailleur bike which is about 2% drivetrain loss. Now a belt drive and IGH combined can be as much as 20% energy loss. This is all stuff I've read but never verified

>>2040406
belts are an efficiency hit?... why?..

>>2040412
Proper belt setup puts the belt under tension which translates to frictional loss.

Yeah I got three gears. Standing, sitting and pushing.

I was riding around on my single-speed earlier and I felt basically no difference going on the road vs going over some grassy hills, for me a single jack-of-all-trades gearing is all you really need even if it takes slightly more effort to get up to speed

>>2038157
perhap a little more ?