Thread 2057027

Alright, quit MONKEYING around

Hey guys I want to put APE hangers on my bike

Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
Neutral Support News on Youtube

RJ THE BIKE GUY IS GOAT

previous thread: >>2054840

My cantilever arms have a little bit of wiggle, I guess the brake mounts are slightly too long. Is there a proper way to fix this?

>>2057040
Never heard of that, I assumed all canti posts were the same length. Your brakes anything special?

I don't see why you couldn't just use a thick washer.

>>2057044
That won't work, the washer will always sit flush at the end of the post and the arm behind it stil has play.

How do you keep up with shifting? I have a like new road bike with Shimano 105 2x10, and it's my first time with something like this. I understand the basics of it all, but I can't ever seem to keep track of the gears in my head, and I'm constantly losing track and running out of gears on the rear and then have to go up or down on the front and then wind up cross chaining. Am I retarded? It seems weird to me that it's only the lowest tier bikes that have gear indicators on the shifters.

>>2057046
>Am I retarded?
You might be.
Anyway, just keep riding. You'll get a feel for it eventually.

>>2057046
you don't need to know what gear you are in. Just remember a certain speed you want to shift onto the big chainring and drop a few gears on the back to keep your cadence and then stay in the big ring unless you can't keep up the cadence that you want. Your drivetrain is noisy if you cross chain too hard but even then its not too much of a deal

>>2057045
When you say play, is the issue that the bolt is fully tightened but the arm still is all jiggly?

If you get a washer with an inner diameter bigger than the canti post you should be good, no?

>>2057046
No one remembers what gear they are in, they just shift up or down until it feels right. If you hear a lot of noise, usually its the chain rubbing the front derailleur. That's your cue to shift to the big/little chainring and shift down/up in the rear.

It's one of those things that you'll just "get" the more you ride.

>>2057045
>116 KB
have you got all the parts?

>>2057090
Yes, looks like I do. Maybe the washers aren't original.

>>2057053
Exactly what I mean. I'm not sure if washers like this exist. I wouldn't know where to get something like that.

>>2057134

I mean, just measure it (trace the size of the canti post onto paper, or use calipers) and go to the hardware store. Unless yours is really shit they should have a fuck ton of washers odds are one will work.

If that fails, buy one that fits inside the cantilever arm, then drill out the inner diameter to be the right size

Would be wise to clamp the washer down/hold it in a vice

best quick release skewers on aliexpress?
also how would i get a bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame

>>2057163
>best quick release skewers on aliexpress?

doesn't matter, it's a non-loadbearing short piece of steel that anyone can make and thread at home in seconds

>bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame

heat gun I suppose

Man I was just trying to look up a manual gor my fork wtf
https://rstsuspension.com/why-gambling-is-increasingly-viewed-as-a-positive-form-of-cultural-recreation/

>>2057168
>heat gun I suppose
its carbon inside carbon wtf is that gonna do
carbon doesnt expand(much) and heat will break it

>>2057160
I have a good selection of washers at home. I'll try to drill a pair out.

>>2057196
Good luck homie

>>2057202
Thanks. That did work, but now I realize that the washers now lock the brake arms in place when I tighten the bolt down. Looks like that's not how it's meant to work after all. I can make this work by tightening them just enough so the wiggle is gone and they can still move, and keep the bolts in place with threadlocker. Not great, but it'll do for now.
I do wonder how this is supposed to work for real, though. It's the first time that I've had this issue.

>>2057175
What do they mean by this? Is it a gamble each time you ride with it?

>>2057209
That's what I was thinking, RST isnt very highly regarded

>>2057163
>how would i get a bonded carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame

Brute force? Wrap a towel around the top for better grip and try to rotate it, only with your hands. No tools. If that doesn't work, try creep oil maybe. Let it work its way in for a day and hope for the best. I haven't had this issue before, but that's what I would try.

>>2057208
Cantis are weird man. Sounds like its working tho.

Found this forum post sounds similar to what you’re dealing with

>>2057176
>>2057168
I'd be worried the heat would melt the resin.
I don't know the answer, but I would not put a heat gun to carbon. a hair dryer would probably not damage it, but like anon says both parts are carbon, I don't think heat would do anything. but maybe worth a shot.

>>2057214
I think you forgot something.

>>2057208
maybe 2 washers against each other to slip against, or like a plastic bushing.
the pivot on my RD where it bolts to the frame had a plastic bushing from the factory which eventually wore out and fell off after taking the RD off for service (the bike is from 89). at first I didn't think it was important and just bolted it back on without the plastic, but it wasn't pivoting and the shifts were skipping and bumpy. so I just used some thick plastic from a bleach bottle and made a new one, everything's fine now and it was probably 6 months to a year ago. I think I made 2 so they'd slide against each other, I don't remember but that sounds like something I'd do.

>>2057218
I can see that working. Although I'd prefer the original solution. However that looked like.

>>2057217
>>2057214
ahhah fugggg'
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/892839-center-pull-canti-brakes-get-stuck-when-tightening-brake-arm-brake-boss.html

>>2057231
Good to know that that's not an uncommon issue.

>>2057163
Put the saddle clamp into a bench vice and twist the frame for leverage until it budges. Non zero chance of fracturing or snapping the post though. You might have to rip the entire bike apart and soak the frame and post in a lubricant bath, that penetrating oil doesn’t work for shit on stuck seatposts in my experience, way too much length to penetrate down and too tight. If neither of those work you are pretty much boned and will have to chop the top of the post off, take a hacksaw blade and slowly cut the inside of the tube until you can snap it in half lengthwise and remove.

How do you program bike riding vs leg days?
I like doing uphills/sprints (outside or indoor), but I also want to get into weight lifting.

I know the typical advice is
>take a break from the bike and just lift for a season
or
>stop doing sprints and do recovery rides
but I don't wanna. I wanna squat heavy, and I wanna sprint.

i've ridden 17000km on my road bike and the chain still hasn't stretched to 0.5% wear (using CC-4 park tool to check) literally running the same chain it came with brand new

using drip wax and i never ride in rain/wet conditions. using di2 full automatic mode too so it doesn't crosschain, i also weigh like 56kg.

>>2057258
pedaling around like a fucking pussy huh

>>2057266
this. sometimes a single cx weekend would kill my chain.

Bum soreness, when does it stop? It's still sore even if I don't let my bear daddy double fist my bumbum.
>new to cycling
>been lifting for a decade
>either I don't get DOMS anymore or I have become one with DOMS
>doing 3 days on the saddle then 1 day off to do leg day
>30km per day, varying intensity
I immediately recover after a day of rest. 2nd day is when I start to feel it, 3rd day is when I really have to make an effort to put even more weight on my legs otherwise it's just not fun.
>bike fit
Shop did a very basic "fit" if you can call it that, just measured the angle of my legs when fully extended while pedaling and adjusted the saddle height based on the ideal angle.

>>2057303
Forgot to mention the most important thing -- it's only been 2 weeks, so I'm assuming/hoping after a while my bum will just get used to this? I'm wearing cheap padded bibs, I also lift my bum whenever I see any bumps.

>>2057303
it stops when your core strength, fitness, power, and tempo increase to the point where the saddle, bars, and pedals are just balance points, not pressure points. so for most people, never. For you specifically, your distance and intensity are more in line with light cardio/recovery days. What I would consider a "real ride" generally entails at least 90 minutes pinned at VO2 max with frequent excursions into anaerobic effort.

you can't "just ride." If you want to make systematic progress you have to go about it systematically. otoh it's only been two weeks. Give it time.

>>2057307
>it stops when your core strength, fitness, power, and tempo increase to the point where the saddle, bars, and pedals are just balance points, not pressure points
>otoh it's only been two weeks. Give it time.
Cool, then yes hopefully the more I ride the more I get used to this. I remember reading somewhere on this board saying most of my weight should be on my legs, which right now is just not doable for me for long periods.
>your distance and intensity are more in line with light cardio/recovery days
>you can't "just ride." If you want to make systematic progress you have to go about it systematically.
d1 coasting, average 25km/h
d2 more effort, average 30km/h
d3 interval 35km/h then recover while at 20km/h
d4 rest from cycling, leg day
I don't know about training zones and whatnot, I only have my phone which I rely on to get my average speed. My goal right now is just to keep up with this consistently, with the aim of increasing my average speed.

With all that said, I'm just happy to get out of the house because I work remotely and I have a home gym, so weekdays I never really leave the house. I'm sweating my balls off too when we're deep into fall, I'm not looking forward to summer.

>>2057303
>new to cycling
that's the problem. unfortunately, it could also be an issue with saddle and fit as well, but there's a break -in period for your butt tissue for sure. you're exacerbating it by doing 3 days in a row, too.
bike shorts have padding and would probably help a lot.

>>2057027 (OP)
How to remove bike chain? It's an old 80s bike without a master link. Do I just fucking use pliers and lever a pin out?

>>2057328
Nah, you need a special tool for it. It's a nightmare without it. Just buy a bicycle multitool that comes with one. It's nice to have one at home.

>>2057335
Thanks, I guess I'll do it properly

>>2057336
do yourself a favor and get a normal full-sized chainbreaker and master link pliers. you can get a generic kit for like $15. I've never had cause to regret buying a high quality tool though. Pedro's is usually a little bit better than Park tool and often at a bit lower price point.

>>2057251
I dont train ever i just do outsoorsy stuff for fun hehe

>>2057251
>unironically doing the bro split
ngmi

>>2057336
>>2057344
>do yourself a favor and get a normal full-sized chainbreaker
second.
the ones on multi tools are awkward and the one on mine (Topeak brand) broke before long.

>>2057344
who cares honestly? sure the portable chainbreaker on a multitool is kinda shit but how often are you really using that IRL? once a year? once every two years?

>>2057383
once a year gets to the breakpoint and you just go but the good tool
once every two ehh

i have no idea about the technical parts of a bicycle but i need a cheap bike to use around town. should i look for something with suspension, or what sort of brakes, or how many gears, or what is actually necessary for something just to travel a couple miles a day?

>>2057384
Thats really not true. I've had one by SKS for years, used it many times, and it's still fine. I'm all for quality tools, but where it matters.

>>2057391
No suspension needed, brakes don't matter as long as they work, same goes for the gears. Maybe you want a rack to transport some things? Check craigslist or your country's equivalent for anything in your price range. Look for posts that state that it's been serviced and is ready to ride.

>>2057391
>suspension
no

>>2057391
best value is used. you need to find a frame that fits you but otherwise there's a lot of bikes that would work for you. avoid department store brands/Walmart brands. if you're average height that's most bikes but there's bikes for tall and short people, too. it's pretty important but a frame a little small is somewhat workable.
search for size charts and measure your leg taint to bottom of your foot. you can post craigslist listings and we'll tell you if they're shit or not

What's up with this small hole on my suspension fork crown? not 1 for 1 the fork i have, but it's really close

>>2057428
cable stop for an optional remote lockout

Anyone has experience with Campy Ekar GT? Fairly common on upper mid range Gravel bikes around here and 13x sounds nice.
Pricey cassettes and tools are a downside for sure, but not a dealbreaker

>>2057524
People r 2 broke for that around here
If you’re gullible and close enough to a bike shop, go for it

>>2057524
imagine the chainline...

>>2057524
Are you in Europe or something? Campy makes good stuff from what I hear, but you almost never see it in the US. It's the well-off bike hipster pick. If you're doing gravel, why not just go with whatever XPLR set that you can afford? You can find replacement parts way easier, and also cheaply (in relation) buy RED hoods and have the best bang for your buck higher end setup.

>>2057524
I have a normal ekar and don't know if they changed any of my complaints on the GT aside from the rattle issue that some of the old normal ekar cassettes had. The brakes are great and it's generally speaking a lot of fun to ride because like other campy mech groups the shifting has more feedback than shimano or sram. The big problem I have with it is that the shifting performance just sucks. Sometimes it has the smoothest gear changes ever and on another day it shifts like ass without changing anything not to mention that its an absolute bitch to index this thing. What I noticed is that the thumb shifter always works but the other is like not really indexed and you can change a little more than a gear if you move it too far and the derailleur just stays there and you have to shift with the thumb shifter again to actually get into the gear 100%. You get used to that but that's not something you want to deal with in a race or something. Today I would probably get a Rival XPLR 13speed with that money but back when I bought it it was the best option. I'd definitely test it before purchasing the ekar gt.

>>2057524
>13x sounds nice

does it? I have difficulty imagining the use case. maybe you're one of the one and a half people on the planet that can attack a muddy cyclocross course grinding 9x42 at race pace, then drop two cogs to 11x42, accelerate from 2000 watts to 3000 and win the sprint...

>>2057558
then get the 10x44 or 10x48...

>>2057558
This always comes across as poor people sour grapes. No. You don't need 13 rear gears. But having them is super fucking nice if you can swing it. My beater bike is my old 10 speed. It's more than enough gears most of the time. Having more gears is really nice to have though. Shit, people did more on like 7 speeds or whatever a couple decades ago. People ride fixies just fine too.

>>2057211
>creep oil
not carbon safe either
i tried just twisting it and even turning my bike upside down, standing on the saddle and pulling as hard as i can
its bonded
>>2057249
i just bought the bike for 500 and the saddle is at the right height so i dont want to try stuff that might break it
im gonna try the hacksaw method next year, just hope i can properly cut it cause according to some old catalogs the seatpost isnt pure carbon but a steel tube wrapped in carbon for some reason
super dumb

>>2057562
I'd happily pay the premium for campagnolo stuff if it made sense to. I just don't want a 9t cog, I could trash that in a single weekend.

>>2057524
My experience with it is limited to a short test ride. It felt really nice and I considered buying a GT group since it comes in the 'wide' spacing of any of the frames I might build with this, but decided against since I would have needed to add compatible wheels too (and 2x just makes more sense for the terrain I ride a gravel bike on anyways). What I've heard from people who have time on it is that the shifting is finicky to keep feeling good since there's very little margin for extra friction in the cable path or even a slightly bent hanger.