Hello everyone. I know litterally nothing abouts cars, and I recently bought my first car. It is a Jaguar 2000 S-Type and I paid $1800 for it. I live in regional Victoria, Australia and I thought it was an absolute steal.
It's registered, and it runs perfectly, has no exterior/interior damage and I love it and it is very cool :D

I took it in for a roadworthy today and it failed. Attached is a list of all the reasons for the failure. I feel as if the guy I bought it off new about these things, scammed me, and now I want to kill myself.
I'd also like to pay for it to be repaired, but I'm afraid it would cost too much so I am thinking that I will sell it to someone else.

>>28530459 (OP)
>Jaguar as a first car when you know nothing about cars
you're absolutely insane

That being said none of the shit is a particularly big problem, its just more that there's so many smaller things that it builds up into a large sum. Best get rid of it and seeing as you live in regional get a unflogged Camry, Falcon, Commodore or Magna

australia should just be rangebanned from the internet along with india

>>28530459 (OP)
Tires cost money, wheel bearings probably need some extra equipment but the rest can DIY without access to a shop or special tools. Long list though

But how did you drive around in this clunking, creaking mess with warning lights blinking at you thinking all is well?

>>28530475
The only warning light on is one with thje back blinker. It still works, but just blinks too fast.
There are no other warning lights, and the car makes no bad sounds.

Told my aussie friend to buy a Honda Civic maybe 10 years ago, he's a doctor now and he still drives it.

>>28530467
Honestly surprised how the car can be in this state but then also pass emissions, show no codes and not leak anything
Brakes seem to be fine too (saw the handbrake, but that's no big deal)

>>28530484
I tried/wanted to ask the mechanic more questions, but he wouldn't come out :(

imagine the unbridled cackling of the guy who made 1800 selling this to you

>>28530488
:(

>>28530479
probably because one of the bulbs is out
Go make a proper list and start tackling these problems. You'll have to outsource the tires, windshield and wheelbearings, the rest just requires time and some room to work on the car in peace

>>28530490
I really like the S type - that generation of mondeo was extremely well reviewed in the british press - is at least the v8?
if not, drive it off a cliff
but that's gonna be like 5k + in repairs

Here is a picture of the car. It probably won't tell you much, but it's too dark to take more pictures.

>>28530493
:( Oh.....

if you like it, just pay to get it fixed. still alot cheaper than a new car, and cooler.
$1800 for a running car is decent.
you might spend a few k getting it up to scratch but thats normal.

>>28530496
The windscreen and lenses don't look so bad from here so he might just be being a tight cunt about some of it but some of the other stuff will definitely need seeing to like making all the lights work and replacing that wheel nut and some of the rubber bits. My headlights looked worse than that when I got a RWC for fuck's sake.

>>28530496
>>28530497
if its not the v8 throw it in the trash
>$1800 for a running car is decent.
except that his car needs over 5k in repairs to pass an inspection lol

Are dodgy roadworthy's still a thing?
It's registered with the sellers platers, so is there anything that can be done about that?

>>28530496
mechanic is being a major fag over the lights and windscreen. the fuck kind of pitting is there?
also i thought in vic to sell a car the seller has to get a roadworthy?

Would it be worth taking it in for a roadworthy at another mechanic?

>>28530459 (OP)
Get wrenching anon

Just replace those listed, wrenchlet

>>28530545
I don't really have a problem with replacing the lights or tyres, and getting the brakes serviced, but it's with the suspension that I think would cost way too much :(

>>28530459 (OP)
>>28530521
If you do try to get another car instead try to look for ones with a (recent) RWC if you can

I paid half in cash, and half via bank transfer. Do you think I should chargeback?

>"know literally nothing about cars"
>bought a Jaguar offered for just 1800 pozzbucks as first car
>fails inspection
kek pozzies can't drive and they can't buy cars either

>>28530551
That's actually the cheaper side, the tires probably being the most expensive part

>>28530576
There is a spare one in the boot. Do you think I could get away with replacing all the tires and fixing everything else for, like, 2k?

Looks like typical build up of lack of maintenance on a 2nd, 3rd, 4th(?) hand old luxury car. Nothing more expensive than a cheap mercedes, as they say, except this is a Jag.

90% of that stuff is trivial shit I would do in the driveway at home with parts from sparesbox or ebay. Pitted windscreen though? Inspector was being a cunt.

also
>live in SA, no mandatory vehicle inspections, ever
>feelsgooman

>>28530459 (OP)
Tires: Easy, but pricey. Don't cheap out on these.
Brakes: Just the handbrake that needs adjusting, should be piss easy.
Headlight lenses: Cutting compound, polish, elbow grease and some 2K UV-resistant clearcoat. Easy.
Lights not working: Could be a simple matter of changing the bulbs, or (because it's a Jag) a deeper electrical issue.
Sway bar end link: Shouldn't be too bad, do both at the same time just in case.
Rear shocks: Gotta pull some interior panels out of the way, but looks pretty doable. Do both sides at once.
Dust boots: Annoying, but not the end of the world.
Tie rod ends: Pretty easy.
Windscreen: Pain in the ass, expensive. Needs someone who actually knows what they're doing.
Transmission T-bar: Shouldn't be too bad.
Wheel bearing: Bit of a pain in the ass, but not the end of the world.
Wheel nuts: Piss easy. Cheap too.
Rear view mirror: Pretty easy.

Most of these aren't too bad. Ever someone who knows fuck all about cars can tackle the basic stuff, like cleaning up the lights, replacing the bulbs, and adjusting the handbrake.
Rear shocks and most of the suspension stuff can be done on jackstands with some basic tools.
Only thing I wouldn't tackle myself are the tires and the windshield, but I've got access to a lift for shit like the steering rack dust boost and a hydraulic press for the wheel bearing.

>>28530596
Would you have a rough price estimate?

>>28530582
Probably, there's a lot of points on that list you can deal with yourself
Main part is getting the jobs organized into a proper list, so you can get most of them done and leave the rest to a professional. If you show at a shop the way you did ITT they'll just tell you to fuck off, last thing they want is waste their time on some poor cunt's hopeless shitbox
But if you're organized and already got most of your shit in order there's definitely a mechanic out there that's willing to help you with the last fixes and get you back on the road

>>28530459 (OP)
You bought a 25 year old car and just about all the things on that list are effects of age and wear from use. The previous owner didn't scam you, they sold you a very old very used car for next to nothing.

Fix what you're able to fix yourself and cross those items off the list. Then take the car and the list of remaining issues they gave you to a few mechanics and ask for quotes to repair everything.

>>28530597
Don't know what prices are like down under, just that the Aussie dollarydoo is in the shitter.
Use something like https://www.automotivebulbfinder.com/ to find what bulb types you need for each position.
Rear shocks I can find from ~50 eurobucks for a junkyard part including spring, or anywhere between 40 and 160 for a brand new part without spring, so you'd need spring compressors to swap your existing spring over. I'd get what's cheapest between Sachs, Bilstein, or KYB.
Rear tie rods are between 70 and 100 for a pair. Looks like the rear balljoints are integrated in the control arms, so a pair of rear upper control arms from Lemförder is ~320. Sway bar end links, looks like there's two different types so you'll have to check which one you need, but they're between 15 and 30 each.
Tires, assume 100 per corner at least. Full set of replacement bulbs, probably along the lines of 50-100 depending on how fancy you go.
Here's a windscreen for AU$235: https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/jaguar-s-type-x202-3-1999-to-9-2004-4dr-sedan-fron~314258

I assume it doesn't have the electronic suspension, because in that case you're fucked. Those parts aren't being made anymore and swapping them out with non-electronic ones will throw all kinds of warnings on the dash.

The mechanic was an overzealous cunt, replace the tyres and fix the lights and present it to another mechanic. Take it to Campbellfield or Dandenong on a permit and have some Gook/Towelhead sign it off.

I'd fix the tie rods, probably cheap as fuck off ebay anyway. Just got to install them and do a wheel alignment afterwards.

Being totally anal about car maintenance in Victoria is insane if we don't have European speed limits.

MSHMSH Tyres in Campbellfield is a direct importer of Chinese tyres, you can't get any cheaper in Melbourne. I've tried.

Interesting that these old S-types are actually RWD, I always thought that they are FWD on the Ford Taurus platform.

>>28530645
You're probably getting it confused with the X-Type, that sits on the Mondeo platform iirc.

>>28530632

All of our parts on ebay are actually pretty cheap because of our proximity to Asia. I don't dabble in Jags but the Merc/BMW stuff is all reproduction out of China now, if it isn't genuine Bosch out of China to begin with.

It almost makes self serve wrecking yards redundant.

>>28530658
Yeah I saw a bunch of cheap rear tie rods on eBay. Seems the Jags from this era all use basically the same chassis bits so a bunch of them fit the S-Type, XK, XJ, XF and so on, so part availability is surprisingly good.

Seems like a great opportunity to learn some basic auto maintenance skills.
Then find some other cunt to check it next time. Ask around and see who'll let small things slide.

AUS has to be the most cucked of the commonwealth countries. That shit is pathetic lol

>>28530680

Depends on the state in regards to registration. All of the laws regarding speeding are fucked though.

In NSW at least they notify you when there's a speeding camera in a car on the side of the road.

>>28530467
that "jaguar" is a ford

>>28530653
>>28530645
Yeah, S-Type is RWD and somewhat related to the Thunderbird and Lincoln LS
X-Type is on a Mondeo platform
But IRL and regarding to the usual stuff you need for maintenance there are barely any common bits

>>28530475
>DIY windshield replacement
lol, lmao even

>>28530459 (OP)
Lol. Inspections are so fucking gay it's unreal. All of that is basically total bullshit but would cost thousands to fix of all it.

>>28530695

Sandblast pitting on a windscreen is basically OP's mechanic trying to Jew him. Dude obviously didn't have a very busy day and saw OP as a mark.

>>28530709

Inspections have their place with unrestricted speed limits. It's a good trade off.

>>28530459 (OP)
Seriously take it somewhere else and give the mechanic $100. Bribing should be more commonplace

>>28530724
good morning sir

>>28530724
That's what I thought.
This mechanic was very picky. Like, there is nothing wrong with the windscreen.

>>28530459 (OP)
>1800 for a jag
> And he really expected it to pass anything

>>28530834
It runs perfectly, but I guess it was too good to be true :(
I think I may try to sell it off to someone else.

>>28530840
Are the things that failed you expensive and time consuming? Why not just get another beater while you restore your jag. Did the same with an Mrs that had a blown engine.

>>28530459 (OP)
>scammed me
Half of this stuff you can just look at and see on a visual inspection. Not getting a prepurchase inspection of some sort, and not realizing you get what you pay for is all on you.

FWIW, everything on the list seems to just be time and mileage (kilometerage?) wear on an old car. Not sure what it is they're calling a clutch T-bar though since that car has a hydraulically operated clutch, not linkage.

Get the tires, lights, suspension and brakes first. The stuff that really matters. Fix the rest as you go. Looks like basic repairs for a car that age. Typical stuff. Pic looks great, hows the interior, the seats and dash? Get these basic things done you'll have a real fine car.

>>28530645
I think so, shit like wobbling t-bar, who gives a shit

>>28530459 (OP)
Signal reflectors worn and its only from the year 2000, this really seems like some BS mechanic. I think some places see one little thing or think that its an old car so did this just to make you not come back.
I'd go to another place, a place I went to failed a car for "leaking head gasket" because there was a drop of oil on the engine.
K-mart used to be good for RWC because there wasn't some owner trying squeezing every bit of money out of everyone, a lot of independent mechanics add their own weird ass rules when the official documentation is that its only supposed to check things related to safety, as if a wobby t-bar matters. Its a scam and everyone knows it.

>>28530720
Pretty much every car I've brought has failed the windscreen test even if its in really good condition, even government sites say not to fail a car unless its excessive so I think its some thing where it used to be a big deal. I've never really heard of it being a thing in the USA or UK even for really old barn finds.
Every boomer whos into cars was obsessed with pitting on the windscreen.

>split dust boots
who the fuck cares lmao

>>28530459 (OP)
$1800 is a steal for no powertrain problems or frame damage in this economy. Fix the car dummy.

>>28530690
they're pushing for average speed cameras to apply to cars though. two spots in pic related now give fines to all vehicles, not just heavy/commercial ones.

>>28530459 (OP)
Didn't read thread yet.
Advice from a QLDfag (we also need roadworthies).

Never take it to a dealer or "upscale" mechanic or any sort of chain/franchise for a roadworthy, or well any repair work really. They will always be more strict. And repairs will cost more. For repairs, never go to a place that has a receptionist, you want to deal with the mechanic directly and talk to him.

Get a mobile roadworthy guy to do the inspection, they may cost a bit more since they come to you, but they also don't have a lift and a full workshop in their back pocket, so they will miss things since all they've got is some jacks and a van. Chat with them, make a good impression, and mention that you bought the car to use and put in your name, and that you're not selling it. They'll generally be more lenient this way.
Make the car look good, so new tyres, make sure all the lights work, fix obvious things like the rear view mirror in your case, etc. If they see that you've put effort and money into the car already and taken care of it, they're more likely to assume the rest of the car is fine and won't look as hard.

Alternatively buy a car which has already had a roadworthy done in the first place, since it's fuckin' gay to get one, much easier to let someone else deal with it, so you know what you're paying is it (well plus the transfer fees). Although keep in mind it could also be sorta dodgy/lenient, so don't think "yeah this car is expensive, but there's nothing wrong with it" to justifier the higher price. What you're paying for is that the hard part of passing a roadworthy is done.

>>28530496
it looks mint to me,if they saw the shitboxes some people drive in the states,why are you brits so cucked

>>28530479
>just blinks too fast.
That means there's a bulb out. The load on the flasher is wrong so it cycles too fast.

I take it passing this is required there?
Only the light bulbs and front passenger wheel bearing are real problems. And the tires if they're legitimately low on tread or uneven.
Some of that shit would be somewhat expensive to replace and doesn't sound necessary. Most cars have worn dust cover boots somewhere, and you probably should replace them, but it's not going to make you crash into a bus full of children or anything.
Wtf Australia? You don't even have a car industry that would profit off of buying new cars all the time.
You can probably tighten the handbrake tension on your own. Tie rods are cheap and very easy to replace.
I agree with an anon above, you should fix the obvious stuff and go to someone else. This guy might've seen your non-functioning lights and threw the book at you because who doesn't check light bulbs before getting inspected?

You weren't scammed you fucking idiot.
A scam would be if he said the car was 100% perfect, then the frame was rusted in half. Or if he said every part you mentioned that needed replacing was brand new and had just been replaced.
Unless he already paid for and failed an inspection, the average person isn't going to know what an old car needs, unless the brakes are squealing, or the engine is clunking, or something else incredibly obvious, they'll be just as oblivious as you are. Half the shit that needed doing like the tyres, lights, mirror, you were just as capable as seeing as they were, like, they weren't hiding this from you, it was literally right infront of you.

99% of the time a car being sold without a RWC is because it won't pass a RWC, which is why it's significantly cheaper than one with a RWC.
Like... I just can't get it in my head how you could possibly think this is a scam in any way? Is this just a completely disconnected zoomer expectation thing? Never in my car buying and selling life have I bought or sold a cheap unregistered shitbox, and me or the person buying it off me expected it to be perfect and pass a RWC. Do you think a used car ad needs to state every little thing wrong with the car ever? It's a 25 year old car for fucks sake, nobody NEEDS to say it will need something, it's not even "hiding it" it just is expected and known it will. You could go buy one of those $200k full nut and bolt resto old boomer 60 year old Chevs or whatever, and I guarantee there will still be little things here and there that it needs, that's just how cars work.

Likely the seller would have told him of any issues but OP is so fresh he didn't even ask.