>>28673376
>it doesn't even let me grind it in
Synchronized transmissions have had blockers for a long time to prevent this, you have to put a fair bit of force to push past the blocker and grind when the transmission is loaded (clutch engaged and not close enough rpm to float into gear).
>if i feel too much resistance i don't force it
How much is too much? You shouldn't have to ungabunga it into any gear at any rpm, but it might require just a little bit more force than normal to speed shift (NOT power shift, don't do that) since you have to press the syncro into the cone harder to get it to sync the gear faster, but again not "a lot" of force, you could break forks and shit if you're going full retard on it.
>Would worn synchros allow easy shifting at lower RPMs and just struggle at higher RPMs?
Yes, the faster all of the gears are spinning the more work the syncro has to do to synchronize the relevant gears n shit. Think about a clutch worn the point of slipping, it might not slip when you're driving nicely but when you mat it it just can't hold. Not a perfect analogy but you know what I mean.
>right, when it goes in, it goes in fully
So when driving normally, it shifts fine and fully and without grinding? It could possibly be very worn but not completely dead syncros, how many miles and when is the last time you changed the tranny oil? I would drain it and see if it looks like you're panning for gold (synchros are brass or bronze), if so there's your answer. There will be powderized metal in it inevitably, that's nothing to worry about, what you don't want is gold fleck (or chunks in general, that's bad too of course) as the syncros should wear very very slowly to the point that it should be practically impossible to pick out more than a handful of gold sparkles is cause for concern.
