FINAL PRODUCT
I never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.
The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece.
Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry.
For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.