Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.

MATERIALS/TOOLS
---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.
---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design.
---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.
---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on.
---Dental tools.
---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below