>>64163546
>Eurobro
Ooooohhhhh, yeah just skip that comp or use a loaner if possible. Ideally a gunsmith would ream that hole wider on a mill or press (to keep the hole from getting canted unlike, say, if it were done by hand) and use a helicoil in the hole to make it good again. Was it single screw hole or both? I'm assuming non-takedown. Ruger really doesn't have numbers posted for barrel clamp torque but IIRC some were suggesting in the 10-20 INCH pound range. Not foot pound, INCH pound. No clue what that is in metric. The receiver is also aluminum so don't go nuts with the rail screw holes. I forget what the recommendation for that was but that was a lot easier to find when I put my 10/22 together last year. Those are also easy to strip out. I use a Wheeler FAT wrench to make sure my screws are torqued to the right inch pound rating. Barrel clamp, rail screws, ring screws (both rail clamp and ring), stock screw, barrel band screw, it all gets torqued to a specific value. Thanks to my gunsmith fucking up a job I could've stumbled my way through if I had his equipment I can take a look at my gun as it's already in pieces. I have the torques at:
>Stock screw (bottom): 15 inch pounds
>Barrel clamp screws: 15 inch pounds
>(aftermarket) Barrel band screw: 15 inch pounds
>Scope rail screws: ??? (weaver might have this in their instruction manual?)
>scope ring screws: Do as YOUR manufacturer recommends. Mine (Leupold) is 15 on the clamp and surprisingly 25 on the ring clamp to hold the scope. That's surprisingly high considering they're also aluminum AFAIK.
So 15 in lb is not a bad bet on most screws including the barrel clamp. Maybe like 20 max. Only thing I ran into was that it was near impossible to use the damn thing because of the location of those screws. Had to basically get it started, tighten most of the way, and use the wrench to get the rest of the way there, then a light turn after.