>>96981493
just a heads up, there are also products you can use which will safely strip the paint off of plastic miniatures overnight, returning the model to bare plastic without harming it, so even if you do bungle a model while learning to paint, it is possible to get a fresh start on it at a later date, and these strippers are cheap too, like $10 a gallon and not very dangerous to work with (basically just a strong kitchen degreaser, its sink safe). pic related is my go to. a hobbyist channel run by a chemist did a comparison video of the best plastic safe strippers if you want to see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqBjt1wKZfc&t=1s
also if you are a new first time painter, im gonna disagree with the other guy who recommended citadel to start, i would personally recommend avoiding games workshop brand paints (apart from contrast). they have bad pot designs that dry out your paints, but more importantly are also known for consistency issues and particularly thick paint which can be onerous to work with.
if your area has proacryl, AK gen 3, two thin coats, or army painter warpaint fanatic, those are much better starting ranges. army painter fanatic especially is such a great starter range, its cheap, has good consistency but can also be thinned for days without losing coverage, and they make it in color set 6 paint flex triads, so its very easy to get a base color and its matching highlight with very little effort or searching. proacryl is still my personal favorite but warpaint fanatic is a great beginners line
i would also recommend learning a standard painting workflow (base coat, shade, layer, highlight) instead of just immediately resorting to contrast. contrast is popular among new players and fast, but it will lead you down a developmental dead end as far as learning to paint, and it can also have some hidden problems that made it annyoing to work with due to its translucency, making mistakes much harder to correct.