What’s on the workbench, /toy/?

Sculpts, castings, original plushies, 3D prints, dioramas, mods, kitbashes, and repaints are all welcome!

Post WIPs, finished projects, ideas, techniques, ask for advice, and most of all, have fun!

HELPFUL TIPS:
-Invest in a rotary tool such as a dremel for sanding/sculpting, especially a flexible extension tip.
-Pin vises for drilling holes can be found at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby and are great for making peg holes.
-For soft, flexible parts get Sugru silicone putty and Oyumaru
-Hardware epoxy putties such as Waterweld, KwikWood, and PlasticWeld are similar to milliput, greenstuff, and apoxie, can be cheaper some times, and can be found at local hardware stores such as Lowes, Ace, and Home Depot.
-Bootleg figures make great custom-fodder, especially if the legit figures are pricey.
>Body-chan/kun, Figma Archetype He/She, and Sozai-chan/kun are great base bodies for import-style human characters.
-For 3D models to use for editing, the following sites are good to bookmark:

>cgtrader.com (free and purchasable models)
>cults3d.com (free and purchasable models)
>models-resource.com (FREE 3D game models)
>turbosquid.com (free and purchasable models)
>grabcad.com (free and purchasable models)
>renderhub.com (free and purchasable models)

What do you think of this new style of Banner? sorry if your image didn't appear this month, i lost many pictures since my pc died, please share more so that i might add them to the OP next time

I want to replace Infinite Crisis Power Girl's lower half with better articulation. Preferably with muscle thighs. Someone mentioned ML Titania, so far

Created a glow-up version of the vintage New adventures He-man. It's really mostly a kitbash and some added sculpting for the hair. I used the better legs from the Battle punching version of He-man, the head from Tartarus and the ponytail from the AOA ML Sabretooth. I also repainted the armor and helmet to look more shiny.

Better look at the hair

Helmet does fit too

>>11465929
>>11465927
>>11465926
Very impressive!

Working on another paleo-figure: a 1/12 scale articulated Lycaenops. I was surprised how small these dudes were given how big the original Kenner JP Lycaenops is compared to the human figures (it's closer to Inostrancevia's size at that scale!).

I'll be placing an order for it on Sculpteo to be printed in PA11 food-safe SLS plastic sincestuff is cheaper and has a better surface-detail when ordered 'polished' than the HD SLS Nylon I used to order stuff in.

>>11466098
One of the most underrated prehistoric species I can think of. You really did the critter justice

>11466098
Oi lad, did you ever remove the support things from the feet stl you have on cults?

>>11466726
Thanks for the reminder! Updated.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/figma-compatible-bare-feet-4-pack

i just moved into a new place and am not quite mentally settled in yet to work on anything crazy but i found time and energy to make an unown over the weekend.

>>11465895
Grey She-Hulk, Masterverse Teela, and DST Psylocke might be worth looking into aswell.

>>11467902
neat

This is the arm of my Furay Planet Veteran William. I guess I wasn't careful with the
hairdryer or something.

Is the risk of fucking it up even more worth taking, or can the figure still work ok like this? If I have to fix it, how?

>>11468377
>The arm

The hole where it goes in, not the arm.

>>11468377
What are we supposed to be looking at?

>>11468388
This hole indicated by the red circle.

>>11468420
Why would that affect anything? Arm should just pop back in and work fine. 98% of the rest of that socket will be holding onto the ball

>>11468377
>>11468420
Nah, hairdryer can't do it. You would melt the entire thing before this can happen. It is simply a missing spot during molding, where plastic wasn't injected fully. It happens, even with stuff like Lego. This is the brick I got in one of my sets. Been collecting for years, only happened to me once. They did send me a replacement. Your figure should work just fine.

>>11468377
If you’re worried, you could probably push in a little clay but it should still work perfectly.

>>11465732 (OP)
Oh hey, two of my works (Midna and chubby body) made it to the OP! Thanks anon!
I need to make some minor revisions to that body and print it, actually. I've learned a lot from making Midna so I'm sure there's a lot I can do to improve it, mainly in the joints. I also might make an optional one-piece lower torso, which will nix the separate pelvis overlay at the cost of a little range for a more seamless sculpt for those who prefer that.
Speaking of, in today's episode of ADHD-driven spontaneous projects I've actually been working on making a Shinji! Gonna try and make the plugsuit and a nude version (blame my fujo friend) which will also work as a generic base body for male customs.

>>11468548
>Shinji
You can scrap it. Figuarts will make him.

>>11468576
So I heard, but I still want to have a go. It's good practice after all.

does anyone know where i can get shoes that work for pic related? i have the pair of black shoes that it came with, but i'm looking to get something like sneakers. i tried the sneakers that i currently have, but they're a different peg type, and i'm not sure what other ones would be compatible

>>11468792
That looks suspiciously similar to a Nota (or Notaa) Studios buck, so you may look for sneakers meant for those.

>>11468796
if it helps, it's this sort of peg. from what i've seen from the nota studios stuff, i think they may be different

>>11468548
>tapping into the fujo market
I recommend nude so he can be dressed in clothes, that’s their favourite.

>>11468982
I'll be doing that first anyway as simply put it's quicker and easier than doing the plugsuit.

>>11468803
You're correct. Just checked my nota buck, and it has a traditional barbell, not what you have picture there.

I'm wanting to make my own Pepsi-man (and Woman). Do any of you know of any reputable manikins to use as a base?

>>11468377
congrats on passing the kidney stone

>>11468548
I don't know what the heck that body is supposed to be but I'd love to see you finish it. I like your work anon. I've downloaded two of the other bodies you've uploaded but haven't gotten a chance to print them yet. I want to see if I can design some joints and print those using a tougher resin too.

>>11469118
Thanks anon! Greatly appreciated. I've had a lot of success with Resione Tough 74 and TH-BJD (same resin, different colours). Going forward I'm going to be designing my figures to be 100% printable rather than relying on aftermarket joints, for what it's worth.

>>11469121
I've been meaning to try Tough 74 or their BJD one. I have a BJD resin from a brand called Funcrecol I will test out first. Buying loose joints whether they be Figma or Revoltech type is hard to do outside of Japan. Options are too limited and it's more expensive.

>Going forward I'm going to be designing my figures to be 100% printable
How are you planning to manage the joints? Two pieces that snap fit together intended for use with a resin like Tough 74 or BJD?

>>11469132
>How are you planning to manage the joints? Two pieces that snap fit together intended for use with a resin like Tough 74 or BJD?
Yep! Already had success with ball-sockets and pegs; my Midna design also used 1mm wire to pin the hinges just 'cuz she's so small but aside from the wire she's pure resin. Only thing I will say is I've found dimensional accuracy isn't perfect with the stuff so peg sockets often require drilling out to make things fit, but it's not a massive problem. Joints held by tension (like clips and ball-sockets) seem to be fine though.

>>11469136
Cool, looking forward to it! I've exchanged files with people for small things that rely on super accurate dimensions and I find that each person's printer settings, cleaning/curing process and times, etc can affect things anyway so people just have to tweak things themselves in most cases.

>>11469095
depends how toned you want them
but if i'm honest i would just wait for jada to make them, i already wrote them an email hoping they see it, like how they made the monster cereals and Chester Cheetah

Just in time for summer, a quick set of alternate chest and hips parts for my petite blank figure on cults. Normal bikini top and bottom along with an alternate thong bottom.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pm-afg-clothing-set-bikini

>>11472623
Side Views.

>>11472624
And the back.

Making the 8 bit P2 Contra guy

I snagged these a while back. Do I need to prime them?
They're the typical rubber plastic of mega figs

>>11472661
Wanted the logo somewhere in the figure like a tattoo or something but why not on the gun!

>>11472661
you can heat, pop, and swap the hair pieces off almost all modern MOTU figures. If you want to save yourself some sculpting work you could scalp a cheap fodder He-man off ebay and paint the hair blue.

>>11472697
Good to hear. I am going with WWE Ultimate Warrior for the hair swap...Hope it's easy work

>>11472668
Looks good,

Question for the 3D heads

Do you model your figure joints so that they snap in, or do you print in place?

>>11473258
I do resin, so you pretty much have to print parts separately and assemble after processing. FDM can do print-in-place but IIRC it only really works for low-friction/free-moving parts like those flexy toys that are all over every single 3D file sharing site ever.

>>11473263
Thanks. I do 3D modeling and I just bought an A1 Mini during the sale to try my hand at 3D printing little figs. I'm trying to find decent resources on modeling for figures specifically for printing, but I'm running dry here. Best I could do is to just find a design already out there and examine it, but I was hoping there would be some kind of hobby documentation.

Did I improve her?

I am just getting into this stuff.. One I have a base body for, I would appreciate people spoonfeeding me two little things
1) what's the cheapest way to get affordable styrene pieces to make a base skeleton for something, e.g. i'm detaching the head and giving it a long neck, which would be cool if it was flexible. all the styrene parts I can see are tiny tiny thin rods and thin sheets. I feel like I'll have to settle for some discolored old legos who don't stick together well anymore anyway

2) among these base bodies or 'bucks' I see mentioned in the OP, what would anyone recommend for a male character in the 7.5-inch range with a slightly exaggerated heroic build? and are these types of things disassemblable, so you can paint the joints properly? because otherwise it seems like that would always leave visible unpainted joints.

I can go into more detail and show project sketches if anyone really cares. they didn't care in TMNT thread

>>11466098
duuuuude very nice sculpt here. Lycaenops/odon was always one I liked. underrated.
>>11467902
oh wow plushies. Those are hard to make. nice job.

Goddamnit, I can't tell if I fucked something up or if Shinji's TV proportions are just that weird; I was following the Settei as closely as I could but the knees seem too low and the arms too long. Tempted to rework him to have less accurate but more normal proportions, 'cuz this looks kinda dreadful.

>>11473663
I think you should take some liberties and;
straighten out the elbows/legs and raise the knees up .
Nice nips btw.

>>11473653
appreciate it. the unown was pretty simple all things considered.

im starting a big project now thats a fucking league character and that is making me want to kill myself just a little.

>>11473665
>Nice nips btw.
Kek, thanks. And yeah, I think you're onto something. Some designs look great in 2D but require adaptation to look good in 3D and Sadamoto's rail-thin characters are among them. Will definitely do some heavy revisions. Good thing I kept a file with the booleans unapplied!

>>11473663
it's in my limited experience that sometimes limbs have to be too long in order to look good while bent, and the smaller the scale, the more true that is. Hence the Neca movie TMNT in 7-inch scale having much longer legs than the massive quarter-scale ones

but if I might do a little overlappy here to help you.. I'm more of a 2D artist, but it looks to me like you want
>bigger head
>wider shoulders
>a straight torso without hourglassing
>same size upper arms, and hands, shorter forearms
>lower crotch
>slightly shorter, thinner thighs
>slightly longer shins with higher knees
>slightly larger feet
(apologies if this is not the 'TV version' but it looks like it to me. I've only seen part of that show and none of the movies)

>>11473682
Thank you anon, that's pretty helpful and comprehensive. And yes that is the TV version.
The head was sized to be in scale with the other Eva Figmas (or at least the one I own, Mari), but the rest is good advice I'll be taking on board. Greatly appreciated anyway!

>>11473684
iduno if this helps but i was in a draw-y mood, this is pretty rough and again, i have zero figure experience, so maybe there's a reason for a V-shaped ab crunch? but it seems to me that should be a waist swivel and a horizontal line for a male.

If Figmas are doing their own thing, that makes sense. They tend to pick a sorta style and run with it.

Is 'green stuff' hobby putty good for action figure kitbashing or is there a better way to 'add' on-to a fig.
Trying to turn a Movie Mario figure into a Sonic.

>>11473686
So I have HEARD that apoxie has a better finish than green stuff which in turn has a better finish than milliput.

I would love to hear some firsthand accounts of waterweld, kwikwood, and plasticweld since those are mentioned in the OP.
I would also love to know how well silicone putties work, like if you had a bendy-wire rubber tail on something, could you legitimately add onto it? I have to think no.. and at least it'd be really hard to paint.

Was having an art-block, but this thread inspired me to open the file, worked a bit on the tracks. Got an idea how to print it. Main hull with PLA, details with resin.
>>11473663
Going from stylized 2D to 3D is hard. I wish you luck anon... and a lot of patience.

>>11473690
>kwikwood
Brittle and lightweight, but has a very fine grain for sanding/carving once fully cured and bone-dry. With a hobby knife and varying grades of sandpaper you can make some intricate details into it, then make a mold of the piece to recast in more durable epoxied or resins.
When mixed: 15min of working time to get it into the basic shape you need starting off like peanut butter but a little thicker. Good time to texture with stippling, using rubber stamp-like impressions, etc.
Becomes more solid after the 15min mark with about 3min of pliability before stiffening.
Initial cure: 2hrs at room-temp, colder air takes longer. It will still be moist and sanding it will produce poor results. Good time for carving out chunks of unneeded mass.
Bone-dry in 36-48hrs, dependent on your area’s humidity and season. Will sand very fine, carving out tiny etchings or details will be possible now.

>>plasticweld
Essentially a white version of greenstuff (when mixed it’s a pale blue, cured it’s off-white). It’s softer than greenstuff comparatively, but still has flex and give like softer plastics used in things that need to grip a ball or peg end. A little weaker than greenstuff structurally, and sands well. Carving it is easier than kwikwood but boy oh boy is it soft when the blade pokes into it. Best for casting soft parts like pop-on heads (think ML, Black Series, etc), and potentially usable for thin accessories like Figma hair parts.

15min working time once mixed, dense peanut butter-like consistency. Good time to add texturing like stipples, hatching, etc.
Becomes firm after 15min. Roughly 3min pliability window for final touches.
2hr cure time. Afterwards can be sanded and carved. Will be much softer than kwikwood.

>>waterweld
Essentially Apoxy. When cured it’s dense and very strong, like a more durable chalk. Can be sanded, drilled, and machined. It’s also water-tight (intended use is for patching leaks in roofs and boats).

>>11474072
>cont’d

5min working time before curing begins. Curing time of 1hr.
Sanding requires power tools, very dense and fine grain.


When using either of these epoxy putties to make a casting in a silicone mold, powder the inside of the mold liberally with baby-powder/talcum powder, then pour out the excess powder without touching the inside surfaces of the mold. This will greatly reduce the occurrence of air bubbles getting trapped between the mold and the epoxy putty, preventing malformed castings.

>>11474072
oh i hadn't even thought of how flexible material would need to be for accepting a ball.. do you just mold stuff with the ball inside and let it form its own socket?

also neat! thank you. if Waterweld's cheaper than Apoxie then... hmm.
Wait you can use a silicone mold for putty? i would think it'd just flex as you pressed the stuff into it.

>>11474077
Do not put a ball into a putty socket without powdering the inside of uncured epoxy first, otherwise it will adhere to the ball end.

>>11473663
Oi lad, think you could make STLs that fit the Snail shell nun? i saw the ones that some guy in Hong Kong sold, but frankly i don't want to pay customs rates for nipples since i have a great resin printer... Or, does anyone else know a good artist i can comission them from?

>>11465732 (OP)
Any more photos of that Midna Figure?

>>11474367
ohhhh yeah i read something about that. that makes sense. Thank you.
I think I will largely use off-the shelf joint kits anyway. just gotta drill the right sized peg hole, plug em in, half the time you dont even need glue.

>>11473653
Well, I put in a bid on a cheap Super7 Rocksteady, as far as I can tell that's the only remotely beefy enough build for what I'm going for, at the scale I want. 7.5 inches with a broad, muscular build is hard to find. But I might well lose the auction, so more suggestions would be appreciated.
Also what is with ebay, nobody answers my inquiries anymore.

>>11475445
nope, lost it. for the best, that would have been a poor match, and I'm remembering that paint-in-joints is an issue.. turning a gray guy flesh tone is hard. I will continue to wait for recommendations on a blank body or a cheap mass produced figure to use.

>>11473686
Aves Apoxie is the best, hands down. Strongest and easiest to sand or drill afterwards. Anyone who says they prefer Greenstuff or Milliput just hasn't tried Aves products yet.

>>11473270
>trying to find decent resources on modeling for figures specifically for printing
Not really any different than modeling anything else, except before you export files you want to make sure everything is water tight since models will need to be for printing. Get the 3D Toolbox add on for Blender if that's what you're using and use the 'Make Manifold" feature before exporting or through the modeling process to help

>>11473653
>7.5-inch range buck with a slightly exaggerated heroic build
That's a bit of an uncommon size. But some companies like Neca make things that are scaled for 7", or look at figures that are 6" scaled but just oversized bodies like Venom, smaller Hulks, Blanka, etc.

> are these types of things disassemblable, so you can paint the joints properly?
Figures from all manufacturers are made differently. Pvc softens with heat while other plastics like abs and pom do not. 95% of the time, you can't fully disassemble a figure at the joints easily. You'll have to do some sort of cutting of dremeling to get things apart but then you'll need to do all the re-sculpting an repairs later. Just try to dremel and sand down contact point in/around joints as much you can without doing damage.

>>11473653
>I can go into more detail and show project sketches if anyone really cares. they didn't care in TMNT thread
Is it that you're coming into it at ground level asking for help on absolutely everything under the sun before even beginning? If you were part way through the process and just had a question on one specific step or two, I think people would be more willing to help. And quite honestly, the customs beginners make their first year or two don't turn out well anyway. It just takes lots of practice to get good, like anything else. So I can see people not being thrilled to take a ton of time to answer the basic questions for someone when there are resources all over the internet

>>11476062
Ah thank you, I forgot about Venom. I bet there's a perfect one of him in some line or other. I'm just realizing that, to fit in with this exaggerated line I'm putting it with.. normal bodies won't do.
>can't disassemble
well I didn't think so. So what do people do to make sure their joints are properly painted?
>>11476067
Fair, but I am surprised I didn't get any reaction at all. I am indeed a beginner at figure customizing, but mediocre at robot model kit customizing, and a pretty decent clay sculptor, so I feel ready. I just realized that if I'm going to have this spare Gargoyles figure, I might as well try to make him fit in with something else, and given the unique proportions of this obscure TMNT character, I did a mockup here that seems to work for me

>>11476070
and the second project that I don't even have a suitable body for yet, while I was on a TMNT kick, I thought I'd try to do a S7-scaled Bugman

>>11476070
You still disassemble as much as you can without doing damage so you have easier access to parts of the joints when dremeling/sanding. Paint rub is an absolute bitch though, so some people also use joints that are already in the correct colors so they can be left unpainted.

>>11476182
'kay see that's what I was thinking.. if these bodies existed, it'd make sense they'd come in different colors. but I can scarcely find any, and most are in 1/12 scale.
I should also probably get some softer-material putty for that kind of thing, but for now I've chosen projects that shouldn't require floppy stuff.. except maybe his beard braids.. which I think I'll just use cable-ties for.

>Mafex Bane
oh perfect, let's see-
>150-250 dollars
feck.
>somebody else making blank bodies that are "1/12 scale" but represent huge characters like the Hulk
okay
>9 inches tall
god dammit

>>11476391
Why do you need a "blank" body? Just use any other body. There's tons of options from tons of lines. Most figures are just unique heads or a few add on parts and some paint. Why is Mafex Bane perfect yet you are also looking for a blank body? Bane has tons of sculpted details.

>>11476447
blank because I would appreciate muscle detail, but other sculpted details are not really a problem either since I'm trying to evoke Four Horsemen's versions of Errol McCarthy's Playmates TMNT designs. Depends on the details. This guy's getting a lot of apoxie either way, but if the skin has something weird like bug armor plating, or the clothes have texture, that's a bonus.

>>11476458
oh and since he has a sleeveless top that (sometimes) has a plunging neckline, anything wearing a tank top or jersey or whatever is already roughly right.
He just needs to look kinda chunky to fit in with the aesthetic here. a realistically-proportioned dude will not look right.

>>11476461
>>11476072
>>11476458
Far as bugman goes I'd say some sort of kitbash between your standard marvel legends thor and maybe an older marvel legends rhino would be the way to go. The standard thor torso already has those built in shoulder spikes, but if you value the tapered silhouette you could always swap out said upper torso for a movie venom. You'd get the necessary lower legs that way too.

>>11476662
Aren't those like 6 inch scale? Thor's not THAT tall.
I hear people talking about kitbashing Marvel Legends a lot, do they use a universal connector or something? I'm surprised you can even get them apart..

and yes, I've looked into Justice Lords Batman because of the arm things and the approximate build. I don't think they made one that size.. and the one I've found only has those arm things as painted detail on a repainted normal Batman. This is gonna be tricky.. but I will keep lookin. The right Venom might just be good on his own.

>>11477053
That Thor's kinda scale-creeping his way into 7 inches. And yes, alot of larger legends share the same torso ab balljoint connector. Hence you could swap in Venom's if you wanted a burlier build for Bugman. Submerging them in hot water for 5 to 10 minutes usually does the trick. You could fairly easily sculpt the gauntlets aswell, but if you want to pull them from an existing figure you're spoiled for choice. The issue would just be scaling them to the biceps. Most armored batmen have that design on their forearms but so does the DCUC Omac and the Marvel Legends Death's Head II

>>11477446
Neat
>most armored Batmen
yeah I was sure I'd seen those before. It seems like a common thing, particularly when they're trying to justify regular-Batman's arm blades by saying like "they're a thing certain ninja wear, and he trained with them"
I expected that, like his wings, I would cut those out of styrene sheets for rigidity, then sculpt the bands. Iunno, that's very far in the future if I even do get to it. But thank you for all your help, this is teaching me useful stuff.

Will definitely customize that leftover gargoyles Broadway first, in that case the base body is already perfect, minus some tummy pudge that I think I can slice off.

resin printed out a train diorama

>>11477489
fits mostly everything

>>11477490

>>11477489
>>11477490
>>11477491
That's pretty rad, anon.

>>11477053
>I hear people talking about kitbashing Marvel Legends a lot, do they use a universal connector or something? I'm surprised you can even get them apart..
They're all different. It sounds a lot like you've never disassembled or customized various action figures before so you just need to buy some, start disassembling and messing with them to learn about the various types of plastic used on each, which joints can be taken apart and not, how the plastic from the various companies and lines feels, etc. When customizing there's bound to be parts that don't fit together like you want them to so you have to get crafty. Break out the dremel, super glue, apoxie and just find ways to make shit work.

>>11477489
RESIN? That's very impressive. Very large, flat pieces and most look very smooth without much finishing

>>11477489
fan-fucking-tastic, dude. I would have thought that would be pretty easy to do with just flat pieces of plastic, but.. seeing it, naw, this was worth printing out, for the verisimilitude.
>>11477490
benches seem a lil small once you have them inside, but
>>11477491
oh fun, lil animation..
>>11477504
Very rarely, only under specific circumstances. Rats, that sounds messy.

>>11477513
>Rats, that sounds messy.
That's customizing. You can plan, sketch, compare pics and ask for tips all you want but you've just gotta get some figures in your own hands to get a feel for what it involves and just start getting to work.

>>11477529
the one thing I don't have in my budget: the unknown.

>>11477533
Well spending months and months asking questions on here without actually jumping and and trying anything yourself will get you absolutely nowhere and just annoy people here. We've seen it with some other people. You've just gotta get some cheap figures from discount stores and practice kitbashing some stuff to get the hang of it and try out various techniques. Go to Ross or Ollies and grab some cheap figures from Hasbro, Mattel, McFarlane, etc and just start practicing stuff

>>11477507
the only real problem was the back door, i was going to reprint it, but i kinda wanted it done before 4th of july vacation, i can live with it.

>>11477498
thanks

>>11477513
i thought the benches were small too, but it only really looks bad on figures that cant articulate well

>>11477546
aw I was afraid of that. was HOPIN' everybody would be like 'ooh exciting here's ten figures i think would fit that perfectly / a great source for larger bucks, keep us updated.' On account of I would be that excited in your place.
Yeah alright, I'll wait til I have something more for it then. and when I work on the one I DO have a body for, I'll keep you updated.
>leave the house
man that's .. I'd like to.. really would. I'll look around, I keep hearing about these 'ross' and 'ollie's' stores, so... must be worth it
s'pose I'd have to bring a turtle with me to make the visual size comparison. that'll be even more weirdly nostalgic than.. going.. to a place.
>>11477561
I suppose the door height would also be a dead giveaway. though this car is really tall and narrow with a lot of ceiling room that goes past the door. Euro style?

>>11477563
>was HOPIN' everybody would be like 'ooh exciting here's ten figures i think would fit that perfectl
Your TMNT Dragon dude as an oversized 7" scale figure is such a super niche and odd thing man. It's not like you are asking about a standard scale and common body like a hero body type, or something common. That's almost certainly going to have to be kitbashed from many different figures and is not at all a beginner custom. That's like a year 2+ custom after many customs under your belt. You need to work on simple part swaps, simple detail sculpting, disassembly for taking care of joint paint rub, etc. You're stating you're a total noob and wanting to jump to a level 8 out of 10 custom as your first foray.

>>11477586
indeed, unfortunately things were not as expected.
also naw the dragon guy I have a body for, usin' a spare gargoyle (fuck you neca makin me buy him twice, i'm making this into something)
I'm relatively confident on that one, I've sculpted enough dragons in sculpey to pull this off. The only rough part is carving out his belly.

the one I was hoping people would have something for was the (far more humanoid) Bugman. and at least being pointed to Venom figures is a great start, I will keep looking for 'em, and Banes, and see if something good shows up.

>>11477601
Also uh, dunno if it was clear, but I made that mockup. took the gargoyle, colored him yella (should be easy, I will sharpie the fucking joints if I have to) and his loincloth red (almost certainly much harder, but eh) took apart his head, simulated sculpting over parts of it (he already has approximately the right brow and ear shapes, just way too small), and- oh I see, I posted the wrong version without the notes and articulation sketches.
I have a bunch of spare balljoint and hinge kits in case anything gives me more trouble, but the neck should be doable I think.

>>11477491
This is genius idea for a display, never seen anything like this before.

>>11477607
Sharpie never looks good or works well on joints. Or anything for that matter. The red loincloth is going to be hard to do even with paint. Red is notoriously one of the harder colors to get painted nicely. Lego/balljoint/hinges from model kit type things never look good slapped onto a figure that isn't a robot. The smooth surfaces and hard edges are hard to blend and the gaps are always hideous.

I think you just have to start testing things out and seeing that a lot of these things won't work how you're envisioning.

For things like the tail though, there are flexible sculpting compounds like Procreate that will remain as flexible as you want it to be even after curing. You can't sand it too well and you may need to add a touch of latex to the paint to keep that flexible too, but it's another option too. Also, please do not use Sculpey on this. It's a pain to cure, super fragile for statues, much less for figures with movable joints.

>>11477561
>those print lines
nigger are you retarded or something?

>>11473694
I got the exterior done, there are still some areas where I need to focus on, but gonna do it while dividing the model into printable parts, in proper scale.
I'm quite happy with the result, I think it's the most accurate 3D representation of this vehicle, even new offical 3D games and model kits do it wrong.
I want it to be articulated and in 1/12 scale, this means it's gonna be around 40 cm tall.

Does a Notaman body work with most clothes you can find off Etsy?

>>11477632
>sharpie never looks good
I wasn't expecting miracles here, but he's a pale cyan so some sharp yellow on top will probably give me a smudge-free dirty-yellow-brown base, and then I can put paint on that.
>slap on joints
... I thought the diagram was pretty clear, I'm not going to 'slap them on' I'm going to make a functioning skeleton and then putty out pieces with significant overhang, so they hide the joint.
(Now if we were talking about Bugman's shoulder-mounted spider arms, I was thinking I'd leave ball-hinges visible there, but for an arthropod that's fine)
>compounds that remain flexible
i was thinking about that, but I find it real hard to believe it would A) be paintable (yeah you're right, latex would be the way to go, but even so)and B) actually want to move smoothly with ANOTHER flexi tail underneath it. A lot of Super7s just have immobile tails, so I'm okay with that. I'll flex the tail into place then sculpt around it.. it'll basically just be there as a skeleton, and for connecting to the body.
>don't use sculpey
Indeed! you have to bake that stuff. That's what I used to sculpt statues in, but for action figures naw. I've got some Apoxie just waiting to be used,. Thank you though, if I didn't know that, I might have made that mistake. Me 15 years ago definitely might have.

Might.. actually grab some latex paint for the loincloth, now that I think of it. that doesn't have to flex -much-
I used to have some latex paint, but I sent it all to my daughter, because it sucked for figure/model stuff. I'm all on the Vallejo train now.
>>11477776
looks hella nice.

Oh hey, okay, three decent candidates. Space Knight Venom, a recent movie Venom, and maybe super7 Monkian.
The hard part was finding official heights on anything.

>>11477561
The big belly would be perfect for this set up.

>>11478165
just buy shit and start man. You're being told things that are correct and then go on about how whatever you think is correct even though you lack the experience. So just go for it since you know best.

>>11478386
I'm agreeing with like 60% of what you say, and then filling you in on the parts you said because you didn't have my personal specific information, on account of you're not psychic
I don't understand why you're so upset, have been this whole time, but it's all settled now and I still appreciate your help.

>>11478352
Hot

>>11478408
NTA but I kinda agree. Not being mean but you need to get out of the planning stage and just try to start. People are much more likely to be helpful when there's actual stuff happening and not just perpetual planning.

>>11478989
fair! Not everyone's going to have as much fun at the pie-in-the-sky stage as I do. At least I'm making progress on selecting a figure. Would be quicker if fucking Mercari and Ebay sellers would actually check their offers and answer questions.

This kind of reminds me of learning to draw. I got so much bad advice back in the day, yet the better I get, the more often I realize some 15-year-old advice I was given was right, and I should have taken it back then, while still knowing exactly why I never could have until now.

>>11473663
take shf Rei and Asuka as reference for the limbs

>>11473273
what body did you use?

>>11473273
she got the thiiiiiighs.
and her face is prettier than usual, dunno what this used to be and what you changed.

>>11477490
Why is Ryu so mad at Tracer?

Both my petite and bbw blank body figures’ bikini kits are up for purchasing now.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pm-mfr-clothing-set-bikini

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pm-afg-clothing-set-bikini

>>11478165
Thanks!
>>11477776
This is the articualtion I'm aiming for + openable hatch. Gonna stop spamming renders and come back when I actually have some parts printed,

Is there a way to get joints in bulk? Having to buy multiple sets of the Hobby Base joints is a little tedious, is 3d printing there in terms of durability where I can commission somebody to print a bunch for me?

>>11481181
Only Japanese sites have those in stock for regular price (about $5-6 US equivalent), but you pay a lot for shipping which sucks. There is a set of knockoffs on Amazon for $15 in black only but the plastic quality is worse and the tolerances are all off so sockets/pegs may need sanding or adjustments.

The only way printing joints that size would work would be if you used one of the more expensive specialty resins like Resione Tough 74 or something similar since that's anti-wear. But I still haven't seen anyone do it. I'm in a discord where someone has mentioned wanting to test it out but I don't think they've done it yet

>>11481208
shit, is 'modeler assistant' a knockoff? I thought I'd done pretty well with these.

Custom chads, I need your suggestions for how one would go about trying to make a custom Sadako. The gown/dress is pretty straight forward, it just requires the ability to craft, but I'm trying to consider how to do the hair and the eye also what would be a good based body?

>>11481330
*base body.

>>11481208
About 10 years ago there were sellers on ebay who sold bags of reject Revoltech joints, I regret not buying them.

>>11481330
No expert here, but I used to find myself on doll customizing websites while bored. You can absolutely get base doll bodies with rooted nylon hair, but getting it into the eyes is another challenge entirely.
>>11481374
yeahhh i share your regret. that would have been nice.

>>11481330
Not trying to discourage someone from making a custom and being creative, but Figuarts already made one years back. Late-tax is a bit pricey, $135usd-$185usd for used, and >$200usd MISB. Search ebay for 'sadako figure bandai'.

If that's too pricey and/or not fun enough, then consider for the body bootlegs of Figma Archetype She Next, Figuarts Body Chan (the newer ones with sculpted bare feet especially), or even look into the bare limbs and bikini bodies for 30Minute Sisters by Bandai. For hair, you could use black sugru since it's decently flexible when it cures (similar to rubber), oyomaru (like flexible plastic parts), or greenstuff with black paint. Eyes will be contingent on the figure's head you use (anime stylized or realistic proportions). There's a lot of eye decals for anime-proportioned figures/girl-pla but I'm sure there are eye waterslide decals for more realistic eye shapes at 1/12-ish scale. You could also look into getting a parted out head of a figure that fits your needs on ebay, from marvel legends to figma and so on, you'll just need to sift through it all.

>>11481212
No idea what that is. Link?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8KRS2Q?
This is the one I was referring to. It's clearly modeled after the real Hobby Base joints but the tolerances are all messed up. Some need to be carved wider to fit the halves together, some are a bit loose, and all the posts are slightly different. Some need sanding and extra clean up on the flashing. They are so much worse than Hobby Base joints in every way but its the only easily purchasable ones in the US

>>11481374
Same. Those all dried up years ago and now sellers charge several dollars for a single Revo joint chosen at random. It's wild how much times have changed.

>>11481526
eeeyup that's the one, or at least one I've bought before.. no bad luck yet but I haven't used these as much as the others.

>>11477491
Amazing anon.
Only thing cooler would be if you printed a scene on paper, maybe multi-layered, and put it on a big wheel and then spun it for the background.

>>11481376
Thanks Anon, I'll look into dolls for the hair, that makes a lot of sense.
>>11481406
And thank you for the super detailed post. I have been keeping an eye out for that Figuarts for ages, but the cheapest I've ever found was on Mandarake and it was still like 17k yen I think, just too much for me. I've not heard of black sugru before so I'll have a read, much appreciated Anon, I'll give it all some research.

>>11481561
Although as I say this I just realised one is at 15k atm, hmmmmmm. That's before shipping though :S

>>11481543
Oh weird. I do see some called "Modeler Assistant" being sold from Japanese sites that looks identical to this US Amazon one being sold under a different name. All I know is the quality of the US Amazon ones is spotty at best. Some need so much work to get to fit together, I just toss them.

There's no /plush/ so I guess this is the next best place, right?
>y'all like goblins?
alternatively
>h-hey anon i heard you were looking for a goblin wife..
alternatively
>buy a goblin FOR your wife!

>>11481930
everyone should be looking for a goblin wife.

now make a bigger one

>>11481837
I'd be okay with that if they were just cheaper..
I've had no issues yet with the ball joints, aside from losing them because I get the stupid-hands and they're tiny.
I mean I had issues with that project, but that's because the figure I was customizing had PARTICULARLY rock-hard plastic to work with, so a hobby saw didn't even make a dent in it, I had to get out the dremel saw. and the pin vise, same, so I had to use the dremel drill. and boy is it hard drilling a precise hole in the center of like a 7mm piece of plastic

it still came out okay, but that taught me some of the limitations. and the irony is, I'm sure that figure used such tough plastic because the pieces in question were so thin. But because they molded them so badly, I had to do surgery.
>>11481930
is there not a /plush/ thread up at the mo? well, this is a cute as fuck lil goblette. People sure seem to make those green, Iunno in my book they were always dusky purple, green is for trolls. but one way or another, fuckin adorbs. I would marry any girl who was into these, and I'd buy her so many.

>>11481930
Really nice stitchwork, you know what you are doing. Character design is also great, with nice toned down colors.. Overall fantastic work!

I was on vacation in Belgium and found this weird rubber Asterix head in a comic shop. I googled it and found out it came from a hand puppet and never really had a normal body.
I figured I'd use it to make an Asterix doll just like Woody. Used the body of a recent figure I found in a toy store in Brussels that seemed to be about the right size. This is how it turned out.

And this is how the hand puppet originally looked

And this is the modern figure I used for the body

>>11482567
Definitely an improvement over the puppet. So... what happens to the plush Asterix head?

>>11482811
I kept it, just in case I could use it for something else... But it's not that great, even the wings on the helmet look kinda cheap and the easiest of the solutions... I doubt I'll be needing it.

>>11477561
Did you use lychee? or any other software, if so can you share the .Lys files for the supports? i wanna try it out too! but i don't want to get it wrong!, not the files themselves but the scene

>>11483014
i used Chitubox, the sliced files are about 1.2 gig in size and clearly the door failed to print, i needed more supports around the window.
As for the supports, they are tuned to my machine,so i wouldn't recommend using any pre-supports as it is, but,just make sure corners and edges are properly supported. I was using AnyCubic's ABS-like grey resin.
Also the model was not meant for resin printing, so the tolerances for the joints are going to change while curing, so sanding is required, but only to attach the walls to the floor.
If your confident in your machine then go for it dude, they're like, 15 hour prints for the larger sections, so its a bit of investment.

Had this Spawn figure I never really liked.
Some left over limbs and head

>>11485127
Kickass. Makes me wanna draw fanart of this new original character you've made.

>>11485127
It's these two figures mixed

>>11485152
the weapons are from the angel, right? because I don't see them on either of the boxes you've shown here, but I seem to recall that winged sword with a hole in it from the Spawn videogame I watched my roommate play.

>>11485157
It's this. Just used weapons I had laying around. I'm probably gonna make her something with a chain

what are the chances that I could turn this into a DK figure?
I know he's wearing pants but you get trousers with suspenders in Bananza so it could work. Just gotta get the jacket off

>>11485200
>it's this
that doesn't help me much
>>11485223
guy who customized him here
the jacket definitely felt like it could come off, to me. I didn't push it hard, but I was able to slip paint underneath it. I bet you could remove it.
For that matter, you could probably putty some sculpted fur onto the pants and crotch area, and restore a more classic look. you'd already be using that for his face, right? since really only the muzzle is like DK.

>>11485240
nta, but those green weapons are
30 minute missions witchcraft weapon
option parts kit from bandai

>>11485538
ahhh 30MM. I should have known. well they looked very appropriate and very familiar.

Can anyone take a measurement and a pic of the Bandai 30 Minute Sister legs & arms next to some common figure? I want to get a sense of how big they are and what scale they look like.

>Coat, Hat
Thoughts? Has anyone a better recipe maybe?

>>11486870
wait
so they did a figure of the album cover cyborg, but without his coat and hat? because while I see a couple differences, I refuse to believe the ref at the top right is not the same character from the album cover. that's way, way too close. at least, inspired by.

>>11487175
Same character, just from different releases. The figure is based on the cover of the "Somewhere in Time" album, the coat and hat-clad version is the art from one of the album's singles, "Stranger in a Strange Land".
>>11486870
I would think bootleg Mafex Gambit's coat would fit closer than the Mattel doll 15th Doctor's.

>>11487219
okay that makes sense. man, Iron Maiden is even cooler than I thought. Who has album cover continuity?
wait, THAT'S the 15th doctor? jiminy christ.
yeah not sure whose coat would come close to draping right, and you'll surely have to customize up the sleeve buttons. Yknow with that tall hat he ends up looking a lot like Chakan the Forever Man. that fucker never got figures that I know of....

Hi /cg/ any good intro youtube video/documents on how to get into 3d prints? Can people these days just download file from the internet and 3d print them without knowing much about technical details? What is a good beginner friendly, but also capable 3d printer these days?

I want to start with just very basic things, printing inanimate objects like wall panels for shelf diorama. But eventually I hope I can 3d print headsculpts, faces, etc. for customs. Where/how to start?

>>11486870
why not just use the coat off one of the movie tmnt figures of late? both playmates and NECA have offered turtles with cloth good coats in that 7' scale.

>>11482561
that turned out so well it almost looks like an official release

>>11490107
>beginner friendly, but also capable 3d printer
I hope you mean resin printers, because filament printers(PLA) are awful for fine details or smooth surfaces. All the main brands these days offer pretty equivalent machines that are pretty affordable ($250 or less). Elegoo, and Anycubic are the most popular I think

>any good intro youtube video/documents on how to get into 3d prints
Hundreds of youtubers have very good and educational videos on nearly every 3D printing topic there is. You do have to get a good understanding of how they work, best practices in terms of part orientation, print settings, clean up methods, curing, etc before jumping in and buying one though. But there's endless resources out there for free. For text resource, go find J3D Tech's massive Google doc. He covers nearly every topic, many various issues you may come across, and has created many free files for resin calibration and leveling tests.

Actually things like heads, limbs, and figure accessories will be easier to print than large flat structures like walls. The larger and flatter an object is, the more creative you have to get with bed placement/orientation, the longer it'll take to print, and the more resin you'll use up due to how many supports it'll need.

>>11490145
not that guy, but there's a pretty big aesthetic difference between a leather trenchcoat and a canvas one
additionally, I doubt that trenchcoat would fit, the turtles aren't very tall guys. though their "7-inch scale" is definitely taller than other "7-inch scales"
I have a spare Broadway trenchcoat that I doubt I'll ever use (got that thing for the folded wings and improved head) AND the hat, but that's even smaller.
>>11490173
the cleanup is what keeps me from doing it. the only place I could even theoretically put it is the bathroom, with the fan turned on and the door shut to avoid any UV peekage. because you need a sink, and it's a LOT. and i don't have any space in there.
all that rinsing and... washing.. and using alcohol.. feh.

>>11490178
Yeah maybe the most important thing about resin printing is having a good space for it. Away from living areas, preferably a garage, shed, or basement that's relatively warm year round unless you have a heater in a grow tent. Clean up and all those supplies (IPA, gloves, shop towels, filters, funnels, etc) are a pain, but the results are 100x better than filament prints most the time.

>>11490179
>warm year round
shid, i didn't even know about that part. that's basically out of the question for me. and even if garages and sheds here didn't spend half the year at 100 degrees and half at zero, they certainly never have plumbing

>>11490173
Thansk! Ok I didn't know that there are PLA and resin printers. I just youtube'd some beginner printing like this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZALp4n-O1Y

Seems like people are using PLA printer. As I understand resin is for printing smaller details like headsculpts and minis. For true action figures (like printing joints etc) do people use PLA or resin?

>>11490244
>For true action figures (like printing joints etc) do people use PLA or resin?
Both types of printers can do the same job, it only really matters on tradeoffs, Details vs Durability, but there are PLA printers that are starting to show promise of fine quality, and there are resins that are tough and resistant now.

Since you mentioned doing face sculpts, your definitely going to want fine detail, that currently you can only get with resin. We already know that resin printers can do large dioramas seen on this post. >>11477489

>>11490253
hell, there's even METAL fucking resins. it's amazing right now, it's just too expensive.

>>11490244
Definitely do resin printer if you want to print joints. You will likely need to use a special resin with ant-wear properties or else the resin surfaces scraping on each other will get loose quick.

>>11490195
Plenty of people have a grow tent (for weed typically I think) around their printer outdoors, and just turn on a small portable heater in the tent so it keeps the enclosure around 70 something degrees in the colder months when you want to print something.

>>11490420
sounds incredibly expensive, and again you wouldn't have a sink to rinse with.

I think the most telling thing about 3d printing is that the few people who own them could reasonably make things for everyone who wants new figure accessories, parts, etc, even the non-tricky ones, and even make a small profit.. and they still don't. Because it's that much of a pain in the ass.

>>11490420
There must be nylon resin, right? For that matter I think the PLA type can do nylon, just with a fuzzy level of detail. but I'm not sure how much that would matter since joints are typically hidden as well as possible. Though they are also really hard to paint, but that's going to be not in your favor no matter what you do.

>>11490485
what do you need a sink for exactly? im not following, before i got my washing station, i just had a air tight container with 99% isopropyl alcohol that i dipped my prints into, gave it a shake and set to dry. Water is slow to dry, you shouldn't be dumping resin down your drain pipes anyways, and doesnt do as good a job cleaning.

>>11490801
i was told you have to douse the shit in alcohol then rinse it thoroughly in water. this guy'd been doing it for years, he knows what he's talking about.. i'd sooner believe i just remembered it wrong, but that was a pretty significant part of it.

I wish I was artistic enough to make my own figures. I'm considering an attempt at pic related, but I don't even know where to start with the materials. Maybe Styrofoam?

>>11491057
You don't need water and in most cases, it's better to not rinse the parts in water after the IPA. IPA evaporates much quicker and is less likely to leave droplets on the parts when they go into be UV cured.

>>11491128
well that's a horse of a different color then.
god i need to talk to that guy again, but i am incapable of remembering any discord names of any people i've spoken to

I want to build some diorama as a background for my figures. I've decided on polystyrene because it's cheap and seems to be easy to work with with just an hobby knife and a blunt pencil. But I wonder what would be the best paint to use for it? While it's more work I would prefere something that's not a spraycan and non toxic so I can do it in my flat. Would normal hobby paint like citadel stuff work on that material? Also once it's dry do I need to put a top coat over it to not ruin my toys by placing them in it?

>>11491461
>citadel stuff work on that materia
thats too expensive, use craft store shit, if directly painting onto the foam.

>Also once it's dry do I need to put a top coat over it to not ruin my toys by placing them in it?
I actually layer a bottom coat first, using this technique
https://youtu.be/bR-tgtcuRPg?t=576

>decided on polystyrene
make sure its extruded polystyrene and not EXPANDED polystyrene, expanded is that cheap shit foam packing peanuts are made of, and generally makes a terrible base for dioramas.

>>11491461
regular hobby paint like citadel and vallejo are basically MADE for styrene, yeah.
Topcoating is always good for something that's going to have things scraping against it, so yeah, get yourself a little can of mr. clear or other similar spray, that's cheap. You can still do it relatively easily indoors by placing it all inside a box as you spray, and then maybe stashing it in your shower with the bathroom fan on while it finishes outgassing.
Just as long as you do mean styrene plastic sheets, and not fuckin.. styrofoam
>>11491482
oh what's this? durabilizing bottom coat?
>expanded
yeah exactly, that's not what you want, and that picture looks ambiguous.

>>11491482
and painted with craft store 1% paint

>>11491482
>extruded polystyrene and not EXPANDED polystyrene
I'm stupid so please bear with me, pic related is Expanded polystyrene, right?

>>11491533
Yeah definitely. that's good for lightweight brick walls and shit, but not for anything figures will STEP on or anything. The floor still needs to be solid, and lightweight walls help keep it from bowing.

>>11491536
so either this or those very thin 0.5-2mm plates for the floor?

>>11491546
This looks more like....

guys correct me if my knowledge has run out here, but this looks like ~pressed foam board~ aka the kind of thing they occasionally make cheap robot kits out of, where you punch out the pieces, fold them along the pre-scored parts, and connect them to ball joints.
If you can actually just chop pieces out of it, it's too soft, that much is for sure. So yeah I'd say the thin plates of real actual hard styrene. I mean if you can get thicker ones, awesome, but then cutting through them becomes harder. They're not that bad though, basically gunpla material.

>>11491546
yes, it goes by a bunch of names, but XPS foam is what your looking for.
>>11491568
XPS foam is nothing like that. Go to your local hardware store, in the insulation department, you should find these pink squares if you live in the US

>>11491619
I had no idea this brand made something other than that fiberglass fluff. It's amazing that they're still using the animated intro to a parody spy movie as their mascot. Uh.. But there's no way in hell this is good building material, right? well it does say strong and durable. I just can't believe 'foamular' is a word, let alone something you'd want in a customizing plastic.

>>11491625
https://www.youtube.com/watch/YbxO2BKJ_1c
Huh, sure enough, this looks like exactly what anon would want to make a diorama out of. I think I was wrong about the initial intention.
But that also means my assurance earlier about ease of painting is not nearly as.. assured. I'll let a proper expert chime in here.

>>11491630
hey what gives, no embed?

is this thread autosaging?

>>11486870
Yeah, the figure is okay for what it is. My biggest gripe would be the missing torso segment clearly visible in the source material. It makes the figure look a bit like the all legs Family Guy meme.
>>11487219
>Mafex Gambit
Thank you, this seems like a cheap alternative, and although it's not the leather aesthetic I was looking for, I probably could dye it. Plus it already comes as a tighter fit.
>>11490145
I have some sewing skills, but Turtles' seems too expensive for a piece of fabric that I would have to rework from scratch, basically.

>>11487175
Yeah, the figure is okay for what it is. My biggest gripe would be the missing torso segment clearly visible in the source material. It makes the figure look a bit like the all legs Family Guy meme.
>>11487219
>Mafex Gambit
Thank you, this seems like a cheap alternative, and although it's not the leather aesthetic I was looking for, I probably could dye it. Plus it already comes as a tighter fit.
>>11490145
I have some sewing skills, but Turtles' seems too expensive for a piece of fabric that I would have to rework from scratch, basically.

>>11491630
>I think I was wrong about the initial intention.
I want to make something like pic related, just a lot more basic. Basically just a red brick wall and a concrete floor. Maybe a wire fence and a dumpster later on. It all seemed to be very easy to make.

So what I need is
>this (>>11491546) foam stuff
>x acto knife (for the details) and a boxcutter to cut the foam into smaller pieces
>craft glue to mix with (acrylic) black paint as a primer (might be cheaper to just get primer tho)
>the (acrylic) colors I want to use
>a brush
>clear paint for the topcoat

>>11491830
heyyy you're right! that is an abbreviated torso.
>mafex gambit is not the leather aesthetic
wait really? I looked it up, it looks identical to me
>>11491894
in that case, definitely. that's the kind of foam you want.

/toy/ is definitely faster lately.

>>11492601
oh also I think I forgot there's a hidden bump cooldown on this board. well, shit, guess I'll have to wait for the next customs general then.

>>11492748
I don't suppose.. mine has expired now..

>>11491792
Probably. The two week bullshit is still in effect.

>>11493728
oh is THAT what it is
well. that's.. I can see why that's necessary in the likes of, say, /tfg/ where it has its own personal troll making new threads as he pleases until there's six to eight of them lying around, but.. less so here. oh well. someone will just have to make a new one.

Almost done with MvC2 Maximum Spiderman

>>11477489
>>11477490
>>11477491
That's super impressive! It looks really accurate! Have you considered sliding in advertisments and signs around it? Of course removable ones but that may help too.
Either way, looks amazing!
>>11481930
That's really great anon! Love the design on her. I'd buy her!

>>11495086
Yeah, personal friends say i need to dirty it up, the problem is there's no going back once you start.
i gotta devise a theme and plan before ill consider it, but its also nice having it "done" so ill take a break from it for now.