Alright /vr/, I scored this and now I want to do something fun with it. What kind of mods can I do for this? It's a Space Invaders Trimline. The monitor works (however is only in black and white) but it does not register a credit for either the service button or the coin acceptor.

I would sell or trade it to a more experienced arcade collector and use the money towards a different, more general use home arcade cabinet, like a Dynamo or Midway cabinet.

>>11834528 (OP)
Gut it, sell the parts, replace the screen, hook modern controllers to a raspberrypi machine

>>11834528 (OP)
>i want to ruin a legacy cabinet in the most faggy way possible
resell it to someone who isnt a retard and buy a 1up as clearly you are the target demographic
>MUH HECKIN MAME!!!
so fucking trash
horrible

>>11834528 (OP)
>What kind of mods can I do for this?
Mod it to do what exactly?

>>11834612
he wants to destroy a legacy cabinet that belongs in a museum to play shitty laggy lcd games emulated (poorly) with a toaster pc or even worse this >>11834597

>>11834528 (OP)
These trimline models are worth the most money among all Space Invaders cabs. I advise you to sell it to an arcade collector, and just use that money to buy a multicade or some other new gaming device.

You could probably get $800 to $1000 if you sell it to an arcade collector.

>>11834604
>buy a 1up as clearly you are the target demographic
I actually genuinely hate the 1ups and I think they're retarded. I'd like to keep the cabinet as authentic as I can but I didn't know what kind of modded board would work on this kind of machine. Maybe my general "what mods can I do" was probably a little too vague.

I actually intend to restore it someday.

>>11834625
>These trimline models are worth the most money among all Space Invaders cabs
Alright so all the more reasons to probably keep it as stock as possible then.

To clarify, I'm 100% ok keeping this stock (as long as I can get it to register a credit and I think I have a way to fix) but I was more so asking if there was anything cooler I could do with it. I don't intend to replace the screen, I do intend to restore it God willing, and I'd only sell it if I could get a Galaga 3 machine instead.

>>11834626
'taito minivaders' would be a cute one
but you are really limited with b&w monitor, NO JAMMA, and only two directional buttons
>>11834629
i would post it on arcade-projects and trade it or sell it instead of destroying it anonkun

>>11834664
>destroying it anonkun
I'm not going to destroy it. The other anon is doomposting. I stated above I want to restore as the only thing that's wrong with it currently is cosmetic (aside from the above mentioned credit issue)

>>11834669
>credit issue
check the wiring and edge connectors
if you ground the edge connector (briefly) to ground for a second and it registers a coin that way then you know its just wear\tear
its normal for the coin inputs to fail over time they are cheap\easy to replace
if its a specialized ancient chip on the pcb that has rusted\trace torn then it becomes a pain in the ass

>>11834674
>>11834669
just consult your owners manual\pinout
if you live near san francisco i'll gladly give you some cash and trades towards that shit bro haha

>>11834674
Appreciate the direction anon. I heard this before and I will absolutely try this. The other issue is the service button which seems to be fucked. The previous owner rigged a shitty free play mod by linking the fire button to the service button and I'm just hoping its something simple and not the PCB (which I fear it might be if neither the coin register or the service button do anything). If it is, I read online that getting a JAMMA might remedy the issue at least for the coin door as I doubt the PCB would be able to be fixed if it is fucked.

>>11834678
>san francisco i'll gladly give you some cash and trades towards that shit bro haha
Sorry, upstate NY.

>>11834681
my strikers pcb was like this
it didnt follow standard jamma for coin for some reason so i would have to take a copper wire with one end (carefully) touching the ground pin and then i would tap the other end of the wire to the coin pin on the edge of the jamma board while it was powered on

def do that first before removing other shit previous owners did or buying components you might not even need

>>11834687
the wire was shielded obviously
i get that this is 4chan but if a child reads this please seek adult supervision and have an engineering graduate or someone that knows what the fuck they're doing before handling high voltage equipment kek

>>11834687
>to the coin pin on the edge of the jamma board while it was powered on
Now I'm not going to sit here and pretend I have any experience with this, but isn't the coin pin buried under the plastic connector that the wires come out of? How would I get a copper wire under there?

>>11834692
the edge connector will be somewhere on the pcb gameboard itself
the pinout will be different for yours (and nearly every machine) pre-jamma but the idea\principal is the same
basically think of it like when you have a nes controller plugged into your system while its powered on but you disassembled it down to just the contact points
you can still trigger nes buttons by closing the circuit manually
same idea but the cab is bigger (dont touch the voltage or video lines anon)

>>11834702
the image is an example image of the various contact points on the pcb
this one is someones passthrough so you can reroute shit to how\where you need it
i had to do something similar years ago w\ namco boards as they use external kickharnesses (for all the extra buttons\inputs)


to close the circuit your just tapping a wire to the ONE pin while the other end is touching ground

>>11834528 (OP)
Even if you don't fully fix this machine right away. Please at least buy some black rubber T-molding and fix the edges of your cabinet. Your machine is missing the rubber T-molding for edges. The rubber is designed to protect the wood from getting damaged. Your machine is basically naked on the right side.

>>11834707
choose a cool color like silver to really brighten it up
do NOT electrocute yourself ok
i hope i explained well enough
if not arcade-projects will be able to help

later<3

>>11834702
Well based off the wiring diagram, theres a separate "coin board" (c) that links directly to the main game based on spots A and 2 if I read them correctly. Would it be possible to short the coin board instead of the main PCB?
>>11834707
I don't know if my image shows it but the wood is fucked up on the right side that I don't know if the T moulding would fully hold. I found the exact one used online for like $25 but I want to replace the paneling fully.
>>11834717
>do NOT electrocute yourself ok
You got my promise anon I'll not kill myself. I'll keep posting about it time to time. I appreciate all your help!

>>11834725
>but the wood is fucked up on the right side that I don't know if the T moulding would fully hold.
The right side does have some nicks and dents, but it still looks usable. If the wooden center cut line isn't deformed, then all you need a rubber mallet and the molding will grip into place. Just gentle hammer the molding into place.

>>11834725
>wtf theres a tilt sensor in it
check that too and make sure its not fugged up kek

>>11834756
touch nothing else & keep a left hand in your back pocket incase you catch an arc
i colored a bit so you can follow the logic of the circuit, (coin switch is phyically wired, follow the trace to the 'gameboard', it will likely be hooked up with a harness using 'teeth', you can then gently\quickly tap a wire to pin 1A while the other end is 'grounded' to 'ground' and (hopefully) trigger a coin press in game...)

if the previous owner did some other nonsense you'll have to manually trace\check everything sadly which is v time consuming...

avoid: transformer, video circuit, power supply, monitor circuitry, lighting circuits, etc
it takes less than 1amp to permanently fuck your heart up

stay vigilant

Weren't early space invader monitors monochromatic anyways? I thought they had overlays for color.

>>11834767
heres a photo of a jamma board and the 'teeth' of the edge connector im referring to (top left) thats the only area you will be touching while the machine is 'on'

godspeed<3

>>11834771
however the example is NOT jamma kek

>>11834756
So I'm basically shorting pin A but grounding it with 3 if I'm understanding this correctly?
>>11834767
>if the previous owner did some other nonsense
No he literally just took a wire strip, pulled back the casing on the wire coming out of the fire button and service button and linked them together. It's retarded but I guess it worked.
>>11834771
I see now. The long pins are cased but the round area right above them are where I'll actually be shorting.

>>11834797
Here's the "G" section where everything connects in.

>>11834812
Forgot pic

>>11834756
The board with the tilt sensor in question. why it has that I don't know because aren't those usually for pinball machines?

>>11834821
usually yes
v strange
but its from an era when people were drunk in public alot kek
>>11834797
>>11834812
yep use a SHIELDED small wire with a nice thick core
before attempting coin do it with a FIRE or movement button first
then try the coin

i can see some solder bridging something there hopefully that isn't interfering with anything
but worse case (even without a solderiron) you can just clip it with nail clippers heh...

>>11834528 (OP)
Film yourself pushing it down a flight of stairs. Maybe you’ll make $0.32 in ad revenue on YouTube.

>>11834840
test protocol: one end of your copper shielded wire (small enough gauge to fit) is gently pressed up against the ground pin\tooth
the other end of the wire goes to the input pin you desire (referencing pinout\schematics)

you can 'poke' whatever input you want like this and test things like buttons, coin, joystick movement, etc

[not touched with bare skin, think of it like your car battery terminal cabling, no touch!]

>>11834848
>>11834840
while doing this it is VERY unlikely that you will hurt yourself however, you must take precise care as you can fry some shit if you start sending ground voltage to somewhere it doesn't belong
as you are technically shorting whatever you target back to ground

>>11834840
>before attempting coin do it with a FIRE or movement button first
I would but the only problem is I can't register a credit to get into a game to ensure that either one of those work.
>i can see some solder bridging something
I saw that too when I took the picture. I can line it up with the diagram to see what it's linking at some point but I can't imagine it's affecting anything.
>>11834848
>one end of your copper shielded wire
So I don't need an actual voltage tester just a shielded wire to short the two pins? As long as the machine is on?

>>11834626
Arcade1up appreciation follows a bell curve.

Bump for interest and hopium anon didn't kill himself

Unfortunately I gambled and I lost. The screen while it does turn on doesn't load anything anymore. It was fun.

>>11836672
The monitor can be repaired, but it needs a CRT specialist who knows what they are doing to completely repair and refurbish it.

You have a 40+ year old monitor. It needs to some work.

I recommend removing the CRT chassis and mailing it to Sharp Image Repair in Las Vegas.

https://www.sharpimagerepair.com/repairs-upgrades

They are well known within the Arcade community for doing repairs on arcade monitors. You should check them out. They even offer a 2 month warranty on their repairs.

Alternatively, you could sell the machine to an arcade collector. You could probably get maybe $600 to $700? The monitor doesn't work so the value has taken a slight hit.

>>11836687
Pic related is the screen now

>>11836687
>Alternatively, you could sell the machine to an arcade collector. You could probably get maybe $600 to $700?
Well if I do that then maybe I can go for the working Galaga 3 machine I saw not terribly far from where I'm at. I just feel bad I fucked it up possibly beyond repair.

>>11836672
What exactly did you do? Did you try to repair the CRT on your own, or did you do something else?

>>11836705
I tried to ground the board to trigger a credit

>>11834702
>>11834690
>>11834717
Kekd at the repeated "please don't fry yourself" pleading

>>11836721
No I just fried the board I guess.

>>11834597
Yup if you do this kill yourself... Atleast put something with fucking power in it.. run SF6 off a pi and see how that fucking works out for ya.

If your gonna "mame it" put fucking good guts in it so you can play everything..

But if you have OG cabinets dont fucking massacre it... Jamma it or pay out the ass to restore it

>>11836692
Looks like it's still displaying images.

Anon I don't think you needed to short the board.

If I saw this thread earlier, I would have advised you to clean the interior. Then unplug and firmly replug in the cables. After 30 years, the connections can get loose.

Sometimes the metal pins can oxidize and get rusty. Which interferes with stable connections.

Did the you check the cables running from the coin mechanism to the main board?

>>11836816
>Looks like it's still displaying images.
It's burned into the CRT not new images.
>Did the you check the cables running from the coin mechanism to the main board?
Yeah all of these were sitting fine and the connections were alright. Do you think the board/game can be recovered at all to get it back to displaying the game or is it over over?

>>11836843
Is the board not responding at all? Just blackness and not booting? Any sound from the speakers?


If not... Then...Well..
My advice to you is unplug it from the wall. Let it sit for 24 to 48 hours and let the board completely discharge all electricity. These old machines can sometimes be weird. It might resurrect itself later if you plug it later.

However, this board might be busted unfortunately. It's hard to tell without pictures of the board to see if there's visible damage (like burnt parts of the board). Maybe check the board to see if there's any damage.

Worst case scenario is that you have to buy a spare Spade Invaders board and replace your old one. Or maybe get a new power supply.

Luckily for you that Space Invaders is one of the Most popular games in arcade history. So it's still possible to get a new board. If you had done this to a rarer arcade game, then it might be a lost cause.

>>11836858
>Just blackness and not booting?
Yes
>Any sound from the speakers?
Couldn't tell you as I didn't have any sound when it was working.
>It's hard to tell without pictures of the board to see if there's visible damage (like burnt parts of the board). Maybe check the board to see if there's any damage.
I didn't see any. I don't think it would've blown anything not on the game board right? I should more when I shorted it it made a sound kinda like a guitar being plugged into an amp while on if you know what that sounds like.

>>11834882
yes the wire is just shorting the controller so the cpu thinks the button has been "pressed"

anon if you have a home console like a nes or snes please take a controller apart and try inputting buttons while the system is on

heres a controller
its the same idea do you see the pads? practice on that first
>>11836724
>>11836709
dude what the fuck happened? :c
>>11836816
thats burn in
anon, let it cycle\rest for 48 hours and try again
also it might not be cooked these older pcb can be v finnicky

dont give up


can you elaborate on what happened when you
'shorted' the coin input to ground?
you touched it for less than a second right? like the amount of time you would be pressing a button for mario to jump?

>>11836889
the schematics can be VERY tricky to decipher sometimes too
the manufacturer can be vague as hell &
sometimes the notation is incorrect (had this happen on a namco kick harness)


dont give up on the machine
the hardest part to keep up with is the monitor itself and you have that fully working :)

>>11836889
>you touched it for less than a second right? like the amount of time you would be pressing a button for mario to jump?
Yeah but I did it a couple of times to make sure i was actually doing something because it wasn't registering.
>anon, let it cycle
est for 48 hours and try again
>also it might not be cooked these older pcb can be v finnicky
That gives me a lot of hope actually. Because I can't see anything busted and I didn't hear anything pop like something busted open.

>>11836692
>>11836843
First thing you should do is unplug the arcade cabinet. Leave it alone for a full 2 or 3 days..These old boards sometimes just need to sit and reset. It may work again later if you do this.

mod it into an aquarium.

>>11834597
>JUST TRUST MEEEEEEEE

No

Thankfully, Space Invaders is a common enough machine that a replacement board is pretty cheap. If you're certain the board is the issue, it shouldn't be hard to replace.

>>11837791
>replacement board
Whole that normally works for any other type of cabinet, the trim line model of space invaders is unique that it uses three PCBs. Finding a three-board setup is going to be nigh impossible

>>11837421
Oh hey, I had that screen saver too.

>>11834597
Please kill yourself

>>11834528 (OP)
Best I can suggest is buying the Braze Multikit and adding that in there.

If you're looking for options outside of the Taito Invaders 8080 hardware, I'd sell it and buy another cabinet.

Gutting it serves no purpose. It's ruins history, and ruins the value. As it sits, you have an 850 dollar machine. If you want a multicade, sell it and find a nice Dynamo cab with a Jamma harness.

>>11834821
That's the credit multiplexer board. Its specific to Taito 8080 boards.

>>11834815
There's also a T Connector.

Honestly, if you're having coin issues, it's likely due to a shorted tantalum capacitor on that coin board.

>>11837421
For what fucking purpose

>>11836692
Your monitor is fine. The raster is either too bright, or your board is not booting.

Start with checking the voltages going to the G connector. On that board is a +5v and a +12v reference.

If you need a pinout for your boardset; https://classicgaming.cc/classics/space-invaders/files/manuals/space-invaders-taito-p1-upright-pinouts.pdf

>>11837791
it might be somewhat common, but nothing about arcade is cheap.

>>11839190
>The raster is either too bright,
I turned it up to see if the monitor was working.
>your board is not booting
That's the more likely issue. I'm letting it sit as other anons suggested first before I start tinkering with it.

>>11834604
It's his cabinet he can do what he whatever he wants with it.
>MUH PRESERVATION
Get bent.

Unplug your arcade cabinet. Leave it alone for several days and let it discharge all electricity. Then attempt to plug it in and start it up again. It might work again.

If not, then you might have damaged your arcade board. Only someone trained in arcade board repair can trace the problem with custom tools and attempt fix it. There are some trained people that can do it but it might cost money to pay them to fix it.

Your Space Invaders mini cabinet is actually one of the rarer ones. The arcade board inside is different from the other boards in larger cabinets. My memory is a little hazy but iirc To save space, the manufacturer split the board into 3 pieces for the mini cabinet. So if you want to replace the board with the same exact model, it may be more difficult (or more expensive) to track down the boards meant for the mini version.

You could probably take the arcade board from a larger space invaders cabinet and try to fit it inside your money cabinet. But I need to see how much space you have inside. It might be a tight fit but it might work.

>>11839185
People generally use them to keep fish, but you'll also see snails, amphibians and crustaceans. You could also drain the water and use it as a terrarium for reptiles, insects, snakes, etc.

>>11840885
>To save space
>the manufacturer split the board into 3 pieces for the mini cabinet.
Lol.
>Unplug your arcade cabinet. Leave it alone for several days and let it discharge all electricity. Then attempt to plug it in and start it up again. It might work again.
Currently doing this. Will update on the weekend after the fourth as to whether or not it recovered.
>Only someone trained in arcade board repair can trace the problem with custom tools and attempt fix it.
Luckily there's at least some sort of arcade repair company around me that might be able to help. I'll reach out if it doesn't recover.

>>11834528 (OP)
Man at least buy some black tmolding for the right side of the cabinet. Don't let it chip away. Even if part of the wooden tmolding track is damaged you can still cover the good parts with fresh rubber tmolding

>>11840885
>Unplug and let it sit as it discharges, it may work again.
1. The monitor works, so discharging is unnecessary.
2. That's not how arcade games really work.

>>11840934
>Luckily there's at least some sort of arcade repair company around me that might be able to help. I'll reach out if it doesn't recover.

If you want me to guide you through the steps of repairing this board, I can. Taito 8080 stuff is my bread and butter.

pic related is my shit

>>11841584
100% agree, No t-molding for a long enough time is a bad road to go down.

>>11839757
tardposting used to be an automatic 3day outside of /b/
>>11840916
kek

>>11841715
Damn that must have been some heavy lifting. Not criticizing just curious, why on the concrete floor? I’d be worried about over zealousness pushing the cab around a bit and tearing up the bottom? Or do u have something under it I can’t see or am I just losing it and that’s not concrete in what looks like ur wash room?

>>11841715
>That's not how arcade games really work.
If you were a real collector then you wouldn't say that. These aren't modern machines. They are old Antiques. They were sold with a 1 year warranty when new, and now they somehow survived until they are almost 40 years old. They are so old that they have developed quirks and their own personalities. I own several several arcade machines and I swear they each have their own "personalities".

I own a Neo Geo MVS cabinet. One day I moved it to a different spot in my room and it suddenly refused to turn on. Spent many days troubleshooting but couldn't find what was wrong. I got so frustrated. Then I simply moved it back to the original spot and it suddenly booted back up like there was never any problem. The little bastard didn't like being moved from "his" spot.

Another is when I bought an old Marvel Vs Capcom machine. Worked at the sellers house. Then stopped working when I brought it back to my place. Suddenly wouldn't respond. Couldn't figure out what was going on. Nothing seemed broken but I could track down the issue. So started cleaning off all the dirt and dust. Gave it a good scrub. Made it look very clean inside and out. I have jokingly said, "OK. Mr. Marvel VS Capcom. I know you must not be happy with being sold. But I am your new owner and I will treat you well. Ive cleaned you and rubbed you down with oil. Are you happy? Please work. Let's work together. " then guess what? The little bastard actually turned on after I cleaned and said that. Now I always make sure it stays pretty clean.

I doesn't happen all my machines but several of them are weird like that and have odd quirks I can't explain. I even had other people look at them to make sure I'm not crazy. They all said the machines were fine with nothing wrong. So I can only assume they have their own machine spirit or their own soul.

>>11841836
Not that anon but you can just use a heavy duty dolly to move them. The bottom of arcade cabinets are supposed to have metal Grey or rubber feet on the bottom. Sometimes they fall off on much older cabinets, but good collectors usually make sure they reattach them or replace them. Some collectors even go the extra mile and add metal casters or wheels on the bottom.

>>11841852
this is why i only have mvs motherboards and not the rest of all that
i can use consumer crt with my supergun (pvm) and have nice custom sticks
my main issue would be trying to squeeze a big red into my fuggin inlaw unit casita kek (probably wouldn't even fit through the door)

>>11841864
>>11841852
quirks, idiosyncrasies, or a life all their own?
>Tsukumogami confirmed

>>11841715
>If you want me to guide you through the steps of repairing this board, I can
If it still doesn't work after the 4th then I'll probably take you up on that. However, just due to the nature of how specific repairs need to be on these things and that I'm out of my element I'll probably reach out off board if that's all right

>>11841858
Ah okay makes sense.

>>11841852
Honestly I feel the same way about some of my old electronics. They act strange sometimes. People like to use logic claim electronics are predicatable, and we're all stupid. But I swear my vintage pinball machine acts out when I don't play it at least once a week. Something breaks or stops responding. I think it gets jealous when I play too much on my other arcade cabinets.

>>11841852
They're in a garage. I use a dolly to move them. Some of them have back wheels, but none of the ones I picture do.

>>11841852
>If you were a real collector, you wouldn't say that.
Oh brother. You do realize that dirt gets inside of connectors and contacts right? When you moved your Neo Geo cab, you jostled the edge connectors.

Get outta here with that "not a collector" shit, that's retarded.

Honestly, if OP's board is fucked, what's stopping him from gutting the cabinet and replacing the screen and running a PI in it? Would it be hypothetically possible for the monitor to stay as is but hook up modern components to it?

>>11842456
Common sense is stopping him.
It's a black and white monitor, it does not take an RGB signal.

>>11842458
>Common sense is stopping him.
Common sense is stopping him from modernizing a cool cabinet?

>>11842484
>modernizing
that's a funny way to spell ruining.

If you want a fancy emulation box, go buy a 1up. That's why they exist.

>>11841831
>respecting property rights is tardposting
Please shut the fuck up and get a job.

>>11842456
there's no way it got fucked that easily

>>11844163
I mean you saw the pic OP sent and that the Invaders are gone and it's just a blank screen. Seems to me like the board is fucked.

>>11834619
The majority of arcade machines are just some mdf wood with stickers on them, the one things of value are the game board, and the crt if you love 40 years worth of burn in.

Update, the Invaders are still gone. I took the boards out but I don't see any actual damage to it from me shorting it. Any other anons with better eyes than me notice anything? Pic related is the game board.

>>11844436
Other board

>>11844437
Last board

>>11842406
>Oh brother. You do realize that dirt gets inside of connectors and contacts right? When you moved your Neo Geo cab, you jostled the edge connectors.
>Get outta here with that "not a collector" shit, that's retarded.

You think I keep my Neo Geo dirty? Lmao.

You don't think that wasn't one of the FIRST things I checked?

Get out of here with your amateur imagination.

You aren't as clever or as smart as you think.

>>11836889
>>11834756
>>11834705
>>11834767
Looks like I came too late. Only a absolute arcade idiot would recommend that OP short their board. This is an OP with zero arcade repair experience. ZERO. Something easily could go wrong. One wrong move and you could fry the board. And guess what? That's exactly what happened.

Do you lack common sense? Why would you tell OP to short their board? He has no experience. Were you trying to show off and pretend to be an Taito pcb expert? Look what you did. OP's board is either dead or partially fried. Even in the small chance it can be repaired, it's going to take a few hundred dollars to repair now. Someone needs to spend hours testing every chip on the board see what's fried and what's still working, and then fixing it. Assuming it can be fixed at all. And that's also assuming OP can find a company that can do it for him. Oh yeah, the cabinet also just lost 75% of its value with a broken pcb.
>>11844436
Many times, damage isn't visible. Often, it's internal and can't be spotted with the naked eye. Especially with a malfunctioning chip, failing capacitor, or some other problem.

OP I suggest you plug everything back in gently, reattach all the cables and test everything one more time. If it doesn't work, then you have 2 options.

1. Find a repair shop to repaie the board, but be prepared for the possibility of them saying the board is perma dead.

2. Buy a replacement board set. I see a couple for sale. But it's gonna cost you $400 to $500

>>11844630
>Oh yeah, the cabinet also just lost 75% of its value with a broken pcb.
You wouldn't believe me if I told you I bought this for $20 at a yard sale so it's not like I'm going to lose money in the end. Yeah it sucks I fried the PCB and if I could get it to work again I absolutely would and I wouldn't fuck with it anymore. This whole issue stemmed because I couldn't get the machine to register a credit
>If it doesn't work, then you have 2 options.
Did that this morning. No dice. Honestly, maybe I just gut the machine and put some modern components in it now and keep it visually, as close to stock as I can. I know there's some anons that'll probably seethe at the idea but I don't necessarily see any alternative.
>Buy a replacement board set
Forgive me for asking to be spoonfed but I've been searching for a couple of days and I can't seem to find any three board sets for sale. Just basic midway boards. Not saying I'll buy one but I'm curious.

>>11844676
Adding onto this, I actually have a color CRT TV. I could in theory sell the monitor definitely recoup my cost and then some off of that use the money to buy a Pi or something and it'd work and even have a CRT like the original cabinet.

>>11844676
Not that anon but there are around 4 different auctions right now on ebay for the 3 board set for Space Invaders. All of them are sold "as is/untested" with no promise of them working or not. They've been sitting in storage for years according to the descriptions, but they were working years ago.

>>11844676
>>11844684
You would still make more money selling this cabinet to a collector. Even broken it's still worth some money. Mini cabinets are rare and collectors like them.

Use the money from the sale to buy something more suitable. Like a larger empty Dynamo cabinet and customize it how you like.

>>11844718
I'm not opposed to just straight selling it either. As I said before I would love to try and sell it and use the money towards a Galaga 3 machine. Only problem is nobody seems to be selling them except for one guy a couple states over for like 800.

What do you think I could get for this? I'm on the fence about selling it because I do like the look of the trimline.

>>11844676
>You wouldn't believe me if I told you I bought this for $20 at a yard sale so it's not like I'm going to lose money in the end. Yeah it sucks I fried the PCB and if I could get it to work again I absolutely would and I wouldn't fuck with it anymore.

It's awesome you snagged it at $20 dollars. The question is how much money do you want to invest in restoring it? From what I saw in this thread, the machine was already on its last legs and is in desperate need of a restoration. Do you want to incest the money to fix this machine? It can be fixed with enough money. It's up to you.

>>11844730
>The question is how much money do you want to invest in restoring it?
Well had I not fried the board I would've spent what I needed to in order to fix the machine cosmetically (which wasn't terrible by the price of materials I was able to price out). But if I keep it, I probably will just get the t moulding like the other anon suggested and then just put the new components in (which for the most part I already have).

TLDR; probably won't fully restore it now. Just slap some T moulding and call it a day.

>>11844539
O great wise 4channer, please tell me what I more must I do with my 85 arcade machines to become a true collector?

>>11844630
Finally, a response with more than half a brain.

As I said before- the tantalums on the RAM board can be the cause for failure. They dry up and short the 12v line to ground. What does that do? It will blow the 12v fuse on the power supply.

Heres how you check to see if this is the case, in pic related, you'll see these three pads, +5v, GND, and +12v.

If you don't have a multimeter, I suggest getting one as it's ground zero for the hobby. It's like bringing a pencil to a test. Set the meter for continuity, or diode check (ohms is fine too, but I use diode check) and touch a probe to ground, and another probe to the +12v pad. If the meter reads "0", you found your problem. If the meter reads 1.6 or whatever, you don't have a short there, and it's not the issue.

Please be aware that you'd want the ram board hooked up the sound board, as the voltage lines travel through the ribbon connector to power the CPU and RAM.

>>11844630
>the possibility of the board being perma dead
The good news about these boards is that the +5v line on the power supply is pretty robust. Out of all the 8080 boards I've repaired, none of them had that issue.

Keep in mind, this capacitor is usually the fault cause.

Since it's only used as a filter, and if you have a soldering iron, you can pull a leg to take it out of circuit and see if that fixes the issue, if you don't have a multimeter. It serves no purpose other than extra filtering.

>>11844905
>If you don't have a multimeter
Currently don't but I can easily get one tomorrow.
>Please be aware that you'd want the ram board hooked up the sound board, as the voltage lines travel through the ribbon connector to power the CPU and RAM.
So I'm doing this while the machine itself is off right?
>>11844918
How would that fix the issue?

Dear OP,

Please hire a professional to examine and fix your board. Find an arcade company locally or one online that you can mail your board to you.

If you want to learn arcade board repair, then do it on something else. Not a board you care about. Experiment in your free time on something else. Tinkering with your board without knowing what you are doing will possibly break it further.

If you need a recommendation, then I recommend TNT Amusements. They are extremely well known in the arcade community, and have been in the business since the 1990s.

They buy, sell, and do arcade repair. They even refurbish machines to brand new. They even run their own YouTube channel where they talk about repairs and discuss different arcade cabinets. TNT has hundreds of videos.

https://tntamusements.com/services/

If you don't like them, then you can find something locally in your state there's usually at least one arcade cabinet in each state.

>>11844963
those caps short. They just go bad over time.
Not saying it's your issue, as I read you shorted a pin to another pin. Honestly, your problem is likely more simple than that.

>>11844918
looks like a tick

>>11834528 (OP)
>more general use home arcade cabinet, like a Dynamo or Midway cabinet
>>11834604
>1up
Stupid question, but where to buy? What do they "do"?

>>11840885
>Unplug your arcade cabinet. Leave it alone for several days and let it discharge all electricity. Then attempt to plug it in and start it up again. It might work again.
It can also work in the opposite way. Plug it in and wait a few minutes before trying to turn it on. I've seen this work with "dead' consoles like the SNES before.

>>11846661
I'll try that. Who knows at this point