Repair thread?
Anybody tinkering with stuff?

Myself, I recently got an N64 controller and the joystick makes a ton of noise. I've heard that's fixed mostly with a lube job?

>>11848673 (OP)
Lube may make the N64 stick smoother. For those you should use a grease which is not based on petroleum since the plastic can react badly to it. So a grease like super lube which is based on silicone.

I recently got an 8bitdo hall effect for N64. It's pretty good, especially for the money. I'd recommend it.

I'm waiting for the renaissance kit to come back into stock. Anyone know when that might happen? I haven't seen any info about that.

I recommend water based lube.
Don't fall for those big bottles of lube, they're super thinned down and you need like a litre just to lube all three prongs of your N64 controller.
You're better off with a tube of good ole KY Jelly, where even a little does a lot.

>>11848673 (OP)
I modded a Yuro SMS to composite PAL60 a while back and recently ordered a new clock crystal to try and make it a "real" NTSC machine. The PAL color encoding is annoying to deal with

>>11848673 (OP)
>Anybody tinkering with stuff?
Yes. At any given time there are a great many people "tinkering" with stuff. There are also a handful of people actually repairing things because they have the knowledge and skill to do so.
>I've heard that's fixed mostly with a lube job?
Who did you hear that from? Why did the noise of they/them saying it not trigger you in the same way? Was it ZSMR? Would you be willing and able to pay extra for ZSMR controllers?

>>11848673 (OP)
I've replaced the pads in my NES and SNES controllers a few times with mixed results. I just bought an 8bitdo 2.4ghmz wireless controller and those are fine honestly.

>>11848673 (OP)
Also, this image got me thinking - will Nintendo still repair your systems? They used to pride themselves on it and I think you could even send in your NES to be fixed pretty well into the 2000s.

>>11848673 (OP)
i'm installing an internal psu into a snes.
i lost the power supply and have a figure 8 cord socket and plenty of 5v power supplies.

>>11848706
>renaissance kit
Hadn't heard about this, about time thank god. It's ridiculous how dog shit the current options are.

>>11849015
I know they did with the Switch 1.

>>11849015
Just the new stuff now back to like 3ds iirc but even that's getting up there these days.

>>11849015
Only if they are pestered by a lawsuit.

I got a few dormant projects right now. First one is I got a broken Atari 2600 I was trying to av mod, however my retarded ass decided to mod it before fixing it so I gotta juggle between is the av mod botched or do I need to replace more chips. The lesson learned here was don't be retarded. The second one is less of a roadblock and more laziness. I got an Atari 2800 that works fine except for the controller ports that either need to be reflowed or replaced. Though I don't wanna potentially fuck the system up even more because it's a fuckin 2800 so I might just wait until I either have more experience or I find a good repair dude.

>>11849031
here's some progress.
now i need to cut the figure 8 socket to shape and glue it with epoxy.

Had a scare with a possible rrod on my beloved Xbox but it seems to be doing alright now.

>>11849320
internal psu in position.
fixed it with double sided tape and added a zip tie for extra precaution.

>>11849957
the test run is a success.
now i only have to clean the shell for the finishing touch.

Ive recently gotten a Super Famicom and itll be the first Japanese region system I own. From what I understand, using a Sega Genesis Power adapter makes it safe to use on the American power grid. Is there anything i really need to be aware of with this thing?

>>11850624
Nope, all you need to know is 9V DC, Center Pin NEGATIVE, 850-1000mA. Basically any guitar pedal cable or a Genesis model ***1*** PSU would work. Many cables in the states / europe are center pin positive, most JP stuff is center negative, keep that in mind and you'll be fine.

>>11850624
just install an internal psu.
mine now works with just a figure 8 cable. anything from 100v to 240v works.

>>11851304
Why add all that heat internally?

I have one of these but it won't go on anymore, I also can't remember what kind of battery it needs

>>11851305
a modern 5v psu produces little to no heat. it is not a concern.

>>11851305
>>11851480
it is also a 1chip snes, so it has plenty of space and produces little to no heat.

>>11849013
The original pads are better. Look at cleaning them and boiling them.

>>11849228
Does the RF still work? Is it easy enough to revert so they can fix the base system?
>>11849320
You might have a 1chip SNES given the UN3 serial number

>>11848706
>I'm waiting for the renaissance kit to come back into stock. Anyone know when that might happen? I haven't seen any info about that.
The latest from RockerGaming is that it's coming back into stock late this month. Previously he said June, so who knows. I'm hoping they're busy getting a ton of them made so they don't sell out so quickly. These ones can be manufactured more easily than previous steel sticks and bowls because they don't use original parts.

>>11853705
I removed the RF modulator when doing the av mod, which was a really retarded thing to do when you're working with an already broken system. I'm fairly certain the problem is with one of the main chips (my biggest guess is the TIA chip) which are thankfully easy to find so it's mostly a matter of laziness than cost or rarity. Another thing is it's a Vader model which are pretty common too so it's not like I was av modding my 2800 or Heavy Sixer.

>>11853705
>You might have a 1chip
it is. >>11851490
svideo out is sharp and it works marvelously after the internal psu mod.

>>11848673 (OP)
I have a couple of gamecubes that can't read discs that I'd like to fix, but haven't bothered fucking with. Think the laser is bad in one and the motor in the other. Might be able to cannibalize one to make the other work though

Use Permatex Dielectric Grease on electrical components like a N64 controller. It will stick and stay where it's supposed to (up to hundreds degrees F) and it won't conduct electricity. It's not even expensive. Don't use fucking KY, wtf.

Anyone ever repaired a Saturn Mission Stick? I got the buttons to work but the lever stays off center, playing Panzer Dragoon makes the screen vibrate and it's annoying. The sensors look clean and even rubbing with isopropyl or blowing air didn't help.

>>11856440
Don't have one of those, but just found a single video on youtube were someone disassembles one to try to fix the stick and was surprised to see they use photosensors (light sensors). Maybe the white undersidse of the tabs (light reflectors) at the bottom of the stick need cleaning?

The dude in the video did the exact same things you did but wasn't able to fix the sensitivity issue. He concluded that maybe the spring for the stick was worn out and not centering it properly, but he wasn't able to take the bottom of the stick apart, and it seems nobody on the Internet knows how to.

>>11857254
>>11856440
Actually, I wonder if the foam padding at the bottom of the stick played any part in blocking light from the reflectors?

I can't tell how far underneath the base of the stick LEDs are placed and how much clearance the foam has to touching anything, but if the foam deteriorated/warped over +20 years it might let light through from the LEDs and screw up the deadzone.

If I had a stick with a these sensors and this problem, I'd try experimenting with a paper flap to see if it blocks the light when the stick is upright. I'd color the paper black with a sharpie, then cut the flap to match where the foam originally reached and tape it to side of the plastic stick base where it will hang underneath the reflective tab part. I'm assuming that when the stick is dead-center, the photo-sensors should not pick up any light from the LEDs.

>>11857254
>>11857264
>light sensors
sega was using all kind of crazy technology at the time.
your idea seems good for calibration, if it works, a more permanent solution would be to use electric tape instead of a paper.
i hope anon can fix his controller.

My SNES's sound stopped working, no idea where to even try looking into it, going to hope that a cap replacement from fixes it. Also of course a lot of save batteries to replace, hopefully with sockets. Are the cap replacement kits from Console5 any good?

>>11848706
>renaissance kit
Tried looking it up, and it's a bunch of tiny metal bits that you have to manually take apart your existing N64 joystick and replace with? And they are laughably expensive? There are HDMI mods that cost less than just these two tiny metal pieces, I'll stick with the $20 hall effect placement sticks.

>>11849013
From my experience the best place to get those pads is a site called Hoskinson Industries, at least for the SNES. I tried the Console5 ones and they felt terrible, the Hoskinson ones felt like the originals to me.

>>11849015
IIRC Nintendo used to repair the NES until sometime early to mid 00s (The Famicom they stopped in 2007) and have slowly been winding down repairs for older systems since due to difficulty of getting parts. Though it feels like they are winding them down much faster nowadays, Wii repair services ended in 2020 for example.

>>11857287
>sega was using all kind of crazy technology at the time
Not surprised, SEGA tended to do that a lot. The Dreamcast had a hall effect stick, something that nobody to this day actually does in their laughably overpriced and overengineered feature bloat controllers.

>>11857372
The console5 caps are good if you don't mind paying extra to have someone else do all of the shopping for you. Otherwise you could pick them out yourself on mouser and save. But yeah, console 5 good. Though you're right to question it after having bought bullshit SNES membranes from there

>>11857254
>>11857264

Yeah tried cleaning the underside after seeing the same video but nothing, I'll try with the paper though, thanks for the suggestion!

I bought an X360 pad for emulating N64/PS2/GC etc games that require analog, it was supposed to be new but the box was opened. There is a little drifting on the right analog (going towards the right when at null position) and also when going upwards on the left analog sometimes also triggers going towards the right

What can I do other than open it and clean it? Are they more complicated to open and maintain compared to PS1/2 pads ?

>>11857480
I've had bad experiences in the past with places like that. I still use them when I want to get parts for several projects at once, but they aren't great for one-time purchases for a single project unless said project requires many many parts, and even with that I have still had problems. I remember once buying several components to multiple projects from Digikey, and was charged twice for shipping. Why? One of the things I ordered was 10 capacitors of a certain type, they claimed to have many on had but apparently only had 7 on hand, so they shipped the missing 3 when they got them in a separate shipment.. and charged full price shipping for it.

When I called them they said they would refund me the shipment, but that this is standard procedure and that there is no way to tell them ahead of time to hold the shipment until all the parts arrive or to notify me if any parts are missing or anything of the sort. They are not really intended for individuals making small purchases. I wish there was more electronic component stores around so just buy such stuff locally like Radio Shack used to have, except, you know, not shit quality.