>>2919171 (OP)Are you always going to have access to a power main? Do you have long-enough 12ga 15amp+ rated extension cords?
Blade left or right doesn't matter, it's a regional thing and each has its advantages and disadvantages, most people get to own one of each at least anyway eventually. Most 6.5" ones are blade left nowadays, whether corded or cordless, most 7.25" ones are blade right. Most wormdrive or wormdrive style hand on the rear are blade left.
Cordless has finally caught up in terms of output power to corded 1500-1650W 15amp corded saws, but only if you get the top of the line from the major brands, and only if you get them with the larger, newer, more expensive high output tabless 6-12ah batteries (in case of 18V/20V platforms, convert accordingly for 36V/40V/60V).
Brakes are very nice, but on corded brushed models, they wear out the commutator and brushes faster (because essentially it is sending reverse power to stop the motor) and potentially wear out the windings faster too. On cordless, brushless models, you can't really find them without brakes anymore, and it isn't a hindrance the way it would be on corded or cordless brushed models.
Makita 5007, whether the magnesium models like 5007MG/MGA or the aluminum ones, are basically not ever going to die on you, and are very heavy too (both an advantage and a disadvantage). They were the standard across North America for the past 25+ years on construction sites. Nowadays, they've almost all gone cordless. In many parts of (Western) Europe, you're not even allowed on the site with a corded saw anymore.
My personal recommendation is a Makita 5007MGA (or MG if you don't want the brake) for the blade-right 7.25" model that will handle everything you want it to handle, as well as a high powered cordless 6.5" model with blade-right for the easier to handle and carry nature of it, and the odd job without available electricity main.
