I have a honda glr125 that i have lovingly kept outdoors in favour of my other bikes. The engine is blown, and I have a replacement from ebay. I cant get this bastard exhaust header off.

Important notes:
Bike sat outside for 20 months (sorry)
Bike was blown up because I never checked the oil (it was leaking)
I also revved the little engine to hell and sat most of the time well above redline full tuck
Oh and the time it blew up it was about 2k OVER THE END OF THE TACHY (sorry)

What I have tried already
Removing all the fixings (1 hanger, 1 bolt in the middle, 2 header nuts)
Giving it a wack with a mallet
Spraying shit loads of penetrant and waiting a few hours
Giving it another wack for fun
Swearing at it

Torch

>>2920614
Good idea

>>2920614
aaahhhhh the oil /diy/k clean it first.
induction systems should get the metal to joule temp quick if there is any tension from stretching that would elevate it making for easier removal.

>>2920614
Sometimes I'll use a torch, then blast it with penetrating oil for rapid cooling, and some of the oil will wick to where it needs to

>>2920611 (OP)
Just keep spraying it with pb blaster every day and wacking it with a rubber mallet it'll eventually come out. Really bang the shit out of it from different angles

>>2920611 (OP)
Get a can of air duster, heat it up with a torch then once it's red hot turn that can of air upside down and soak it in liquid CO2 to shock it.

>>2922558
Have you had good luck with this seems like that might crack something

Can't be stuck if it's liquid.
Put a jack under your ratchet to turn it with fuckyou force. Put a strap from your tire to ratchet and turn tire with car on.
Use a impact. Make your own impact with a hammer on the ratchet. Hammer the bolt into paste.
Reciprocating saw, grinder, hacksaw, bolt splitter.
Weld a hot bead on the head of the bolt.Weld a socket onto it. Weld the ratchet to it.
Have you tried cursing at it?
Have you tried praying to it?
Essential oils?
Communism?
BBC would loosen it.
When all else fails bring it to a shop or sell the car.
Nobody wants it? Set it on fire

>>2922890
I've done this as a last resort quite a few times and it's worked for me. Cracking is always a risk though so you do need to take that into consideration. I've never had anything crack for me personally but that doesn't mean it won't happen. If you're desperate though it's a good option.

>>2922890
One thing you could try if you're worried about cracking is not heating it as hot, but cycling from warm or mild heat to cold can also help and you could work your way up to larger temperature differentials. If it's stuck though and this is your last option your fucked anyways so if it cracks your really not any better if than it being stuck. Sometimes repairs are just a crapshoot like that.

>>2920611 (OP)
get an induction wand and some kroil. nothing else will work. do not evaporate the kroil with the induction wand. your lungs and throat won't like it.

>>2920611 (OP)


There are a couple of options.
For penetrating oils liquid wrench is the best commercial option in the market. DIY 50/50 acetone automatic transmission fluid is even better (not to be used anywhere near paint or plastics).
The other main thing is dissolving the rust itself. A sodium citrate solution with added surfactants (ie dish soap) is the best rust scale remover you will get. Even better than evaporust and at a fraction of the cost. A basic diy recipe is per every 1 liter of water, 100 grams citric acid - 40 grams washing soda/63 grams baking soda/30 grams caustic soda - 10~ drops soap. You can also include 1.5-2 tspn. xantham (use a little glycerin to turn it into a smooth paste without clumps before mixing) to thicken the solution into a gel that will stick to surfaces. Brush off the loose scale, slather that shit on, maybe some plastic wrap too to keep everything on while it does work, and the crap comes right off.
Heat guns make everything easier.

>>2925346
>(me)
if making the gel it works best if you mix it in a pot and simmer, stirring continuously until it boils

>>2923258
>>2925346
>50/50 acetone automatic transmission fluid is even better
No it's fucking not, I hate this meme so hard.
This keeps being repeated by I fucking love basedence types because of that one paper that measured 6 gorillion foot pounds. Which is not even fucking possible on a bolt.

>>2925383


Well that's your opinion, but it's not consonant with real world results either. Hey, don't just take my word for it-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WuVBFTzoKc


I use seafoam deep creep myself the most often when servicing bolts and fasteners since it has good corrosion protection and heat stability along with helping reduce the chance of stripped heads (Bulldog BDX is also good but not as broadly available). Ounces of prevention and all that. When something hasn't been treated right though and is really seized up, sometimes you'll need something more extreme (choice of 'atf' can make big differences depending on base oil chemistry and additive packages).

>>2925346
the best commercial option is kroil. liquid wrench used to be great. i have a can from the 80s that i use extremely sparingly. the new liquid wrench formula is totally useless. i have been working on cars for over 12 years. no other penetrating oil works. i have also tried your meme method before and it quite simply sucks.

>>2920611 (OP)
I just cut them off. Even a manual hack saw with sharp blade will work but I like Dremel-style fiber reinforced cyutting discs for exhaust studs and my recip saw for tubing,

>>2925199
How is the wand induction coil supposed to heat what it does not surround? OA torches have worked fine as long as they've existed and do much more than heat tiny local areas.

>nothing else will work
Confirmed not a professional. I was likely pulling exhaust stubs before you were born and the methods were old then.

Heating until red or dull orange then attempting to unscrew while cooling (including some penetrant) normally gets them right off, and you can even weld some long flat bar or scrap of whatever shape ya like as a handle.

If a stub is screwed into the head the gas axe is most often necessary (then anti-seize the replacement including all threaded hardware!). Rusty tubes may crush but you can tap a socket in to halt crush when using large visegrips or a pipe wrench on the tube.

>>2926246
well given your reddit spacing you're clearly a newfag born after 9/11. induction and wax gets the job done right the first time. i don't care what kind of unga bunga techniques billy down the street taught you.

>>2926248
That spacing long predated the internet so I use that to make fools of the pre-teens who hallucinate it came from reddit.

I've used my bros induction heater and they do have limits torches do not, like heating objects which do not fit well or at all into the magnetic field. I was running an industrial induction heater before you were born (the fun liquid-cooled head type for annealing ~4" OD piston rods prior to threading the ends for the piston) for Parker-Hannifin. Good times but limited application.