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Thread 64090590

263 posts 108 images /k/
Anonymous No.64090590 >>64090674 >>64090765 >>64090874 >>64091163 >>64095554 >>64100730 >>64106142 >>64106420 >>64119248 >>64122256 >>64127620 >>64130041 >>64143684 >>64148526 >>64156653 >>64161398 >>64161656
/3dp gen/
Everything must be 3d printed.

Did this site die when it went down? What happened?
Anonymous No.64090674 >>64091144 >>64097480 >>64105095
>>64090590 (OP)
The soul of /k/ resides in diy threads. Without them, /k/ is empty.

Do any of you fags have experience with 3D scanners? I have an Otter and MAF 3. I’ve been somewhat impressed by both, but am growing weary of their limitations (and my shitty computer.)
Anonymous No.64090748 >>64092743
What would be the best thing to work on?
A single action revolver in .32.
An overly large .32 or .38 derringer/sxs.
A single action blackpowder revolver in roughly .45.
All would be made cheaply with hardware store parts.
Anonymous No.64090764 >>64097628 >>64127001
I love 3d printers so much, without them i probably wouldn't be able to start this FRT business because theres no way i'd be able to do all the trial and error with my designs
Anonymous No.64090765 >>64090774 >>64090858
>>64090590 (OP)
This board has slowly been dying for years, mainly due to the influx of shills, spammers, and 3rd world shitposters.
Even fucking Reddit (piss be upon them) has a DIY firearms community that's leagues above anything you'll find on /k/.
That being said, there are occasional diamonds in the sea of raw sewage, like the Anon that built his own working WA2000 rifle based exclusively off of photos he found online.
Anonymous No.64090774
>>64090765
the spirit of /k/ still continues on in a lot of small gun owner circles, i'm in a discord server full of oldfags who mostly dont use this site anymore and know a few of them IRL
Anonymous No.64090858 >>64091073 >>64092743 >>64104448 >>64106142 >>64137835 >>64138714 >>64174289
>>64090765
I've almost exclusively migrated to reddit. You just have to unsubscribe to everything besides gundeals, fosscad, gunnitrust, diyguns, and gunsmithing. Even then it's only tolerable. I miss 8ch.
Anonymous No.64090874
>>64090590 (OP)
>not calling it /3dpg/
One job
Anonymous No.64091073 >>64091096 >>64108345 >>64124509 >>64137835
>>64090858
>tfw lifetime ban from redd*t
>any account I make is insta-perma'ed
>any device I use on any network, instantly (within 5 mins anyway) banned

I can't find what they use for device fingerprinting but it's not IP or MAC based.
I really only miss fosscad and gafs, the rest of that bot-riddled shithole can smoke my pole.
Anonymous No.64091096 >>64106142
>>64091073
Oh yeah I forgot about gafs. I've bought a few optics for cheap there. Now I can make my own.
Anonymous No.64091144 >>64091865 >>64092018 >>64092393 >>64104990
>>64090674
What's the point of a 3d scanner for /k/ stuff? You don't want to make 3dp stuff the same shape as metal or even injection molded plastic anyway, and they can't accurately capture internal geometry.
Anonymous No.64091163
>>64090590 (OP)
>not 3d printing depot
so close, yet so far
Anonymous No.64091865 >>64100672
>>64091144
Furniture? Mags?
Anonymous No.64092018 >>64100672
>>64091144
Reverse engineering / reference modeling. There are some features which are a PITA for me to measure using the other tools I have access to (Walther PDP slide serrations and reliefs for example). Additionally, 3D scanners are pretty useful for capturing organic geometries like grips.

No shit, that doesn’t dismiss the utility of having models of whatever injection molded, machined, or cast part you’re trying to create a facsimile of.

That’s only somewhat true, the scans I have of a PDP slide I’m working on are around +.001in to +.006in as far as I can tell. Not useful as an exact model, but close enough to use as a shit test for my measured geometry. The big issue is diameter vs depth, small holes show up as small divots in the model past a certain size depending on exposure settings, focus, etc.
Anonymous No.64092393 >>64100672 >>64139665
>>64091144
the real answer is for prototyping
its an extremely useful skill to have when designing mechanical shit
Anonymous No.64092743 >>64177117
>>64090858
I know that feel
>>64090748
Revolver in .32 would be easiest. Possibly just go for a homemade round. Would be a good little project with intense freedom repercussions.
Anonymous No.64092790 >>64093107 >>64094098 >>64094206 >>64094235
I think 3d printing is neat and could be useful but i hated it when i tried. Granted this was close to 10 years ago but it seemed like back then for most people the printer was the hobby instead of using it as a tool. Constant tweaking and adjustments and troubleshooting, i hated it.

Whats a good place to start with printers if i were to pick it up again. I want the most plug and play option. If i ever have to level a bed or troubleshoot a stepper motor i will kill myself.
I read good things about the bambu labs printer but then there was a protest or something. Theres still a core group that says just get an ender 3 but they seem like the fudds of 3d printing.
Anonymous No.64093107 >>64108377 >>64122023
>>64092790
Don't bother with an ender 3. Bambu just works, if you don't like the china aspect then pick something a bit higher end like a prusa. Ender 3 is not even worth talking about when you have auto leveling beds and all sorts of QOL with modern printers.
Anonymous No.64094098
>>64092790
There are newer ender 3's that are much better, but you have so many good options now.
Anonymous No.64094206 >>64094213
>>64092790
I had a pretty similar experience, made a reprap for my sister who got very into the concept around 2012. Bought steppers, ramps, wired it all together and it was a constant struggle to keep the bed level and get prints to stick to the piece of mirror covered with kapton tape. Pla was crumbly and brittle, I had no idea abs needed to be enclosed, my sister was impressed with her own 3d printer for Christmas but ultimately didn't have room for one in her apartment so it sat in my parent's garage. I got an a1mini when they were on sale for $200 to dip my toes back in and its been night and day. Pei coated plates and self leveling keep things stuck and square every time unless I try to get tricky and mess it up. If the filament runs out or jams it just pauses and waits for me to sort it out and then resumes printing. There are vastly more designs available and slicing software has advanced incredibly. Filaments have also come a long way, pla+ seems totally different to the corn plastic of old and there are tons of new options, nylon, polycarbonate. I kind of hate tpu from the experience of it degrading after 10 years in shoes, electronics cases, gas masks but now that I can make it any shape I want I bought a few spools and just keep that lifespan in mind.

Cont.
Anonymous No.64094213
>>64094206

I'm trying to think of the fiddling I've needed to do on it, over the course of ~30kg worth of printing I had to re-tention a belt, it told me that was required and how, oil the rails, it tells me when and how. I've jammed the nozzle a few times trying to hot change filament rather than just pausing and going through the correct procedure (that causes a slight layer shift and wastes a miniscule amount of plastic) it didn't know what happened with that, I needed to take the hotend out and heat it up on the stove to clean the jam out. Occasionally it will say the card needs to be reformatted, so I do on the control panel then go re add the file to the card, I don't let it connect to any network and just use it in card mode for security. Once it said the card was bad, but the issue was a light clog after switching from petg to pla, didn't purge enough and left a little higher temp material stuck in the nozzle. If the power goes out you end up with half a print though, there is no resume after power loss on the a1mini, and the printers that have that feature have trouble with it from what I've read.

I would recommend it, it's kind of amazing how easily you can make complex bespoke objects just downloading stls and messing around a little with your slicer.
Anonymous No.64094235 >>64099079
>>64092790
Probably a little out of date but well organized list
Anonymous No.64095554
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64095754 >>64096633
Got a spare roll of PLA+ Silk, it any good?
Anonymous No.64095755 >>64095774 >>64096633 >>64096654
anon in the last thread talked about the FGC-9 cycling just fine with black powder (and reloading primers using HILTI powder), that made me a little happy.
Balsa wood, sulfur, and KNO3. Then magic happens :D

Also, what happened to APAnon? He produced tungsten carbide .308 at home, and i remember him documenting the whole process here in 2019.
Anonymous No.64095774
>>64095755
>He produced tungsten carbide .308 at home
I remember him. Had chink made penetrators for the cheap. Good stuff
Anonymous No.64096633 >>64096654 >>64096695 >>64097076 >>64097086 >>64097127
>>64095754
For this? HELL NO.
For cool looking things? Yeah, it's nice.
Just don't print anything 3dpd
>>64095755
Yep, that was me I think.
I do cycle mine with BP, also can get my Makarov to cycle with BP as well. Anything blowback works pretty good with BP.
Will try reloading .22 with Black powder and seeing too.
Anonymous No.64096654 >>64096666
>>64095755
>>64096633
Don't remember anything about that in the last thread
>>63957285


Is there anywhere with a list of failed projects? Things that never got through beta so we don't rehash dead ends?
Anonymous No.64096666 >>64096939
>>64096654
Even older thread maybe? I'm damned sure I've commented on it before. I know for a fact I shoot mine with BP.
I didn't mention it specifically with my FGC in the same sentence, but I did talk about it last thread.
Anonymous No.64096695 >>64096728
>>64096633
>For this? HELL NO.
Yeah that's what I thought. Guess it's time to shit out minis.
Anonymous No.64096719 >>64096728
P320 CAD LEAKED
>P320 CAD LEAKED
P320 CAD LEAKED
>P320 CAD LEAKED
P320 CAD LEAKED

https://odysee.com/@chairmanwon:a/p320rip:e
Unfortunately, the step files were stored as a mesh (I think.)
Anonymous No.64096728
>>64096719
Yeah, saw that lol.
Chairmanwon did it too, even funnier.
>>64096695
That's the spirit!
Make a little Jstak statue, or a luty one. Don't make stands with it though, snapped my poor urutau off the wall after a week.
Anonymous No.64096898 >>64096945
I always wished they made optics cut jigs to use with dremel routing attachments
it'd be extremely slow going but you could probably shave down the amount of time needed by chain drilling
Anonymous No.64096939 >>64097010
>>64096666
Oh it's there
>>64028577
Guess my reading comprehension isn't what it used to be.
Anonymous No.64096945
>>64096898
What kind of jig would you want?
Anonymous No.64097010
>>64096939
Lol, it's good m8
Sage No.64097076
>>64096633
>Anything blowback works pretty good with BP.
Thanks for your experimentation. I think people overlook very essential knowledge like that about how firearms work.

My guess is that simple blowback guns chambered in .45 ACP work just as well using BP as they would with factory ammo because of how .45 works (low pressure, reaches peak pressure very fast).
Anonymous No.64097086
>>64096633 #
>Anything blowback works pretty good with BP.
Thanks for your experimentation. I think people overlook very essential knowledge like that about how firearms work.

My guess is that simple blowback guns chambered in .45 ACP work just as well using BP as they would with factory ammo because of how .45 works (low pressure, reaches peak pressure very fast). Nice digits btw.
Anonymous No.64097127 >>64097134
>>64096633 #
>Anything blowback works pretty good with BP.
Thanks for your experimentation. I think people overlook very essential knowledge like that about how firearms work. Also, have you ever used HILTI powder and BP, at the same time?

My guess is that simple blowback guns chambered in .45 ACP work just as well using BP as they would with factory ammo because of how .45 works (low pressure, reaches peak pressure very fast).

>Will try reloading .22 with Black powder and seeing too
Good luck anon. Nice digits btw.
Anonymous No.64097134
>>64097127
I've got it to work in 12GA, .32, 9x18, 7.62x25, 7.62x38r (Revolver super easy!), 9mm, and I'm guessing anything bigger except some rifle would work fine.
>Hilti and BP
No, never mix them. Just a bad idea.
>.22
Will post if anything comes of it.
>Digits
Very nice, didn't even notice.
Anonymous No.64097480
>>64090674
>The soul of /k/ resides in diy threads. Without them, /k/ is empty
Tbh
Anonymous No.64097628 >>64098716
>>64090764
Extremely based, what's your website anon?
Anonymous No.64098217 >>64098575
.22lr Black powder has resulted in a squib after fail to ignite multiple times, will try a finer powder. I used the equivalent of 2f? Gonna have to try 4f.
Anonymous No.64098222 >>64098592
Somewhat related >>64098170
or companies that 3d print for you. I don't have anything to print besides a SS which wouldn't warrant me buying a printer
Anonymous No.64098575 >>64098580 >>64100973
>>64098217
Look into Everything Black Powder. Guy gets extra power from making it from the strangest things. Not at all into black powder but that's the first thing my mind went to. Or buy something finer. IDK how deep you're getting into it.
https://www.youtube.com/@Everythingblackpowder/videos
Anonymous No.64098580
>>64098575
Homemade, I've seen his channel. Will give it some more viewing time.
Anonymous No.64098592 >>64098789
>>64098222
If you just need something small couldn't you dremel it out of a chunk of scrap? Or is the geometry too complicated? I've made zero percent receivers with a drill and a dremel.
Anonymous No.64098663
Wasn't there an early version of the maxim that made use of black powder and managed just fine because it had a self cleaning water system?
Anonymous No.64098716 >>64127001
>>64097628
Its still a WIP, but it'll be by the name of Desert Meridian
Will shill in the FRT general once it's done
Anonymous No.64098789 >>64098914
>>64098592
Maybe, but i am retarded and dont trust myself
Anonymous No.64098914
>>64098789
It's just got to be close enough, and if you screw up you're just out time and materials.
Anonymous No.64098934 >>64098988 >>64099079
can you 3d print a barrel?
Anonymous No.64098988 >>64099007
>>64098934
They sort of work for .22 if thick enough and you can get a few shots out of higher caliber ones.
Anonymous No.64099007
>>64098988
brb buying a 3d printer
Anonymous No.64099079 >>64099374 >>64106395
>>64094235
Anything below 500 on this list is outdated with the Bambu A1.

>>64098934
Yes, for .22LR.
If you want to make a barrel and involve 3D printing, you can 3D print a rifling mandrel and use ECM.
Anonymous No.64099374
>>64099079
>If you want to make a barrel and involve 3D printing
i should make cutting jigs for rifling buttons
Anonymous No.64100672 >>64100712 >>64101163
>>64091865
You don't want to make those parts the same as the metal or injection molded versions, so why are you scanning them?

>>64092018
What are you going to do with your 3d printed Walther PDP slide?

>>64092393
Do you have a picture of the metal safety and trigger that you scanned? Why not just use those if you have them?
Anonymous No.64100712 >>64101056
>>64100672
Anon thats not a safety, its a super safety, which I'm about to have made in steel and test it out to sell
Anonymous No.64100730 >>64100953 >>64108237
>>64090590 (OP)
Are resin printers useful for anything? I'm gonna try to grab one for wargaming
Anonymous No.64100953
>>64100730
Shit on wheels uses them for making ecm mandrels for .22. Besides that.... No.
Anonymous No.64100973 >>64100994
>>64098575
Better milled BP that was closer to 4f I think cycled the gun with no issue. I think the primers were also fucked up on the last round. Cycled the Yeet22
Anonymous No.64100994
>>64100973
*Failed to cycle 3 of them, so a lighter spring may help this. Will try in the Y22HH later when I have time.
Anonymous No.64101056 >>64101066
>>64100712
Okay, so what did you scan?
Anonymous No.64101066 >>64101083
>>64101056
i'm stupid i thought you meant 3d printing in general sorry
Anonymous No.64101083 >>64101097 >>64101210
>>64101066
Of course not, 3d printing is incredibly useful. Scanning a metal object to try to print exactly the same thing in plastic and have it work properly is obviously never going to work though. 3d scanners are a waste of money, just measure the relevant dimensions and design something properly.
Anonymous No.64101097
>>64101083
i mean, you could 3d scan it then machine it using the specifications you got
Anonymous No.64101163 >>64101202
>>64100672
Furniture and some mags are fine printed the same as injection molded, and even if not exact it's a good jumping off point.
Anonymous No.64101202
>>64101163
3d printed furniture should be designed for 3d printing, and you can't capture the internal geometry of a magazine with a scanner. It takes like no time to measure the outside dimensions, so you're talking about buying a several hundred dollar device to save 30 seconds.
Anonymous No.64101210
>>64101083
Or 3D scan it then print out some soft jaws. Or 3D scan it and design some sort of accessory. Put your trip back on, sieg.
Anonymous No.64102235
Bump
Anonymous No.64104110 >>64104448 >>64118565
Getting some cracking of the breach, what does /k/ think? Change print orientation? Add some threaded rod? More steel, less plastic?
Anonymous No.64104448 >>64104532
>>64090858
what the fuck is that ?
the fuck the black thingy ?

>>64104110
cut a small recess for a penny, epoxy it in place and drill a small hole for the firing pin
i think the issue is that the case head is recoilling so hard that it is splitting the layer
supporting it with a metal plate should apply the force to a larger surface, avoiding the delamination
also, wtf is that ?
Anonymous No.64104532 >>64105966 >>64135880
>>64104448
Yeah, reinforced breach face sounds good for the time being, it's a 45lc revolver I remixed out of some other designs. If taurus can do it why can't I?
Anonymous No.64104990
>>64091144
Best to learn CAD and use calipers to measure your critical dimensions.
Anonymous No.64105095 >>64105478
>>64090674
I operate an arctech micro for work, remarkable machine, perfect for small parts, not exactly a hobby friendly machine. Too pricey. Even with the scans, you can't do much with them unless you have the manufacturing capacity and the know-how to make the scan into a usable model and then modify that to your ends.
Anonymous No.64105478
>>64105095
How much control do you have over the turntable? What software are you using with your processed scans?
Anonymous No.64105966 >>64117403
>>64104532
>a 45lc revolver I remixed
So, those files available anywhere?
Anonymous No.64106142 >>64106215
>>64090590 (OP)
>>64090858
>>64091096
Christ those walls are terrible. Are you printing at like .40 or something? Holy shit that is bad.
Anonymous No.64106215 >>64119391 >>64122256
>>64106142
I print with minimal supports.
Anonymous No.64106395 >>64106880 >>64107551 >>64108262 >>64124606
>>64099079
>Bambu A1
why its so much better than elegoo neptune 4?? its worth x2 and has the SAME specs
Anonymous No.64106420
>>64090590 (OP)
wut tf is that?
Anonymous No.64106880
>>64106395
It's actually 1,000 times better than the neptune 4.
Anonymous No.64106926 >>64113538
I'm printing one of them M16A1 training dummies with a bayonet so I can swing it around and thrust it and go "hoo-hah!". The real thing costs hundreds for some reason
Anonymous No.64107551
>>64106395
A printer is more than speed and bed size
Anonymous No.64108237
>>64100730
You will want to look into the material properites. They can, but UV resin tends to be more expensive conpared to plastic on a spool.
Anonymous No.64108262 >>64110243
>>64106395
Read the reviews. Bambu charges for the name but tend to be a higher quality product. It tries to be the Macintosh of 3d printers.
I have had good luck with Sovol who basically just plagerize Voron.
Anonymous No.64108345
>>64091073
Did you say the funny word?
Anonymous No.64108377
>>64093107
fuck overpriced bambu, get an elegoo centauri carbon for $300.
Anonymous No.64108563 >>64110039 >>64110861 >>64110905
Damn, ChatGPT says it's probably not legal to get a stockpile of suppressor nameplates or even empty tubes registered in 2026 when the tax stamp is zero dollars, and then put in the actual gyroid fiil with a hole in it later on if I 3D print them or get an actual one.
Anonymous No.64110039 >>64113023
>>64108563
ah yes, the fine firearm law professional Chat Gypped
Anonymous No.64110243
>>64108262
There is nothing at all unethical about packaging an open source design for retail sale. It happens all the time in the 3d printing community, there's entire companies that do nothing else.
Anonymous No.64110861 >>64113023
>>64108563
>Chat GPT
The fuck is wrong with you. You should feel bad for even asking it anything.
Anonymous No.64110905 >>64113023
>>64108563
>ChatGPT says
>asking it for anything but word salad for a jewtube video script or high school essay
Anon, i...
Anonymous No.64113023
>>64110039
>>64110861
>>64110905
However, the alternative it gave me was just filling out a fat stack of form 1s and using them the same way.
Anonymous No.64113538 >>64114983
>>64106926
A LGS had one for like $150 or some shit. Also some people figured out some of them have real barrels, maybe uppers. During the insane uptick in retro interest before H&R (PSA+NoDakSpud) got up and running I'm sure a ton of them got torn apart to sell the guts. I really don't recommend tearing apart rubber duck rifles for parts, though, because while it's not only retarded considering their age, no one's ever really been able to get a straight answer of if there was any reason those parts were used in duck rifles. Rejects? Defects? Demil/damaged rifles? Perfectly fine? Who knows! And getting the urethane resin off them is a nightmare anyways, so by the time you buy one, scrape it, inspect it, refinish it, and all that shit, you could've just bought known good clean parts. IIRC some of them only have barrel stubs as well so lol good luck once you destroy a $100-200 rubber duck only to find a barrel stub/demil barrel inside and nothing else, IIRC maybe an unfinished or faux upper (there's at least 3 military surplus versions if not many times that, not to mention variations for the A2 as well).

Modern ones would cost hundreds because of the mold and urethane cost. I shop at a local Smooth-On location and god DAMN is that shit expensive! It'd easily be $100 to mold a real M16 with silicone and probably $70 for the semi-soft urethane, plus something to keep the barrel stiff (all thread?). Then you need a ~$20 bottle of blue or black UVO dye for the urethane which should last years as well as a ~$15 bottle of mold release to make it easy to peel out and increase mold life. Pistols, there's a lot less reason for their cost other than the limited mold life requiring you to save a couple bucks from each purchase once you inevitably need to make another mold. And that's another huge part of the cost for rifles.
Anonymous No.64114329 >>64114334
Sort of asked this in the last thread but does anyone know if there's been updates to the print in place 22 revolver?
Anonymous No.64114334
>>64114329
The ryno is still in beta, should be soon from what I understand. Even some beta files floating around too.
Anonymous No.64114877
i was just looking at fgc build docs, doesn't this seem like it would leave the case rather unsupported when using a glock barrel?
Anonymous No.64114983 >>64115033 >>64115079 >>64115098
>>64113538
I had half an idea to get into molding my own for sale, but I think I'd have to have a contract with the military/law enforcement to make any sort of profit. Setup seems easy enough though: you draft models with simplified external geometry, 3D print a master copy, then cast with silicone molds around a fixed 5/8" mild steel pipe. As an alternative, maybe run a print farm with TPU as the material and just paint over the exposed pipe portion.
Anonymous No.64115033 >>64115124
>>64114983
Tpu dies after 10 years, probably want to use a more stable material.
Anonymous No.64115079 >>64115124
>>64114983
Smooth-On can unironically help you with that. At the location I go to they have a copy of a Denix (or other fake) Beretta 92. Literally as simple as:
>degrease/clean gun
(use some Inhibit-X if you doubt Platinum Cure Silicone will cure with lube/cleaner contaminants or use Tin Cure Silicone instead for less sensitivity of the silicone and less cost at the price of mold life in storage)
>fill gaps and voids with Chavant Sculptex (probably soft)
>make mold box
>put gun into half a block of clay and put registration marks (dimples) in it AND air vents and pour funnel/sprues
(punished props goes over this all the time)
>pour silicone, wait to cure
>flip over, remove clay
>spray with mold release
>pour other half
Can't find the video on the handgun but here's a rifle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_l_f7bsK1M
Another useful product to know about:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDJaWDSkGVA
Or use any CO2 canister. Anyways, great company; they also have HEAPS of random advice and guides on their website and will respond to emails fast with advice, any guides they may have related, and recommendations for materials you might want to try. I mean anything from gun grip making (video) to making climbing wall handholds to using their products for various taxidermy purposes. Go to one of their physical locations if you can; you'll spend days looking through the place as most products have example projects you can look at, pick up, squish, and feel the weight of. It gets you way closer to knowing what you'll actually need and emails will get you the rest of the way there. Their products also come in anything from sample size (2.2lbs, a little bit more than 1 pint of each part) to gallon, 3 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon drum (they have one on display at my location lol), and 330 gallon IBC tank. Yes, really (by special order). Also check out:
https://www.smooth-on.com/content/guides/
https://www.smooth-on.com/assets/pdf/Technical_Data_Charts.pdf
Anonymous No.64115098 >>64115124
>>64114983
Oh or use urethane to make a mold. Sorry, my brain is stuck in Platinum-Cure Silicone land where almost everything is food and/or skin safe lol. That's way cheaper. Like, IIRC waaaaaayyyyyyyyy cheaper. Mold detail isn't literally fucking microscopic like silicone but it's still very good.
Anonymous No.64115124 >>64115136
>>64115033
thanks nigga

>>64115079
>>64115098
When I was doing research on materials they were actually the most promising website I found. Thanks for the wealth of input, nigga
Anonymous No.64115136
>>64115124
One more piece of advice; they have seminars and classes at certain locations every now and then. Never took one but probably a good source to learn from and not that pricey IIRC with materials cost included.
Anonymous No.64117403 >>64120185
>>64105966
Still working some bugs out, make a nutty9, it's about the same effort and you end up with a better gun.
Anonymous No.64118565
>>64104110
Could you put in a flexible pad like in the pm4 songbird?
Anonymous No.64119248
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64119380
Anonymous No.64119385 >>64120292
Look at this abomination
Anonymous No.64119391 >>64119411
>>64106215
Nothing I said have to do with supports. WALL thickness is wrong and print diameter is WAAAAY too big. Reduce to at least 0.2mm, if not 0.08mm.
Anonymous No.64119411 >>64139226
>>64119391
Negro it was at .2mm. Line width is default and fine.
Anonymous No.64120185 >>64120292 >>64122673
>>64117403
Urutau is easier honestly.
Anonymous No.64120292 >>64121565 >>64122949
>>64120185
Is it really? The nutty was under $30 in hardware and used a sccy barrel I had, the only bit of semi serious tool work was drilling the firing pin channel and that requires almost no precision. I'll check out the urutau bolt.

>>64119385
That's still in prototype phase though right? It's not going to be 60% knobs when complete?
Anonymous No.64120713 >>64122975
Should i just go with the bambulabs H2D. Seems like the most capable non enterprise printer. Laser engraving is pretty cool too, ive had a few projects ive wanted to do and getting both tools in one is great.
Anonymous No.64121565
>>64120292
Why does everyone hate the screws?
Anonymous No.64121896
I want to print the .223 mauser, but someone last thread said they SIG P320 themselves. It also seems like stubbs has moved onto newer projects. Has anyone who's made it identified the issue? Im wondering if it's something that could be resolved with a quick modification to the stl.
Anonymous No.64122023
>>64093107
even the cheapest ender 3 has auto bed leveling now
Anonymous No.64122203 >>64122310 >>64126066 >>64133628
Anonymous No.64122228 >>64127061 >>64133141
A collaboration project we are working on for a Deltapoint Micro mount for the LCR
Anonymous No.64122256 >>64122262
>>64090590 (OP)
>>64106215
You should just extend those rings down to the bed and you'll get much better quality without needing to fuck around with supports.
Anonymous No.64122262 >>64122993
>>64122256
It's not important.
Anonymous No.64122310 >>64122318 >>64133141
>>64122203
Am I retarded for asking how this is supposed to work? What's the point in staring at a dot when you can't see what it's actually aiming at?
Anonymous No.64122318
>>64122310
Its an occluded eye dot, you leave both eyes open and it overlays on what you're looking at
Anonymous No.64122673 >>64122949
>>64120185
What do you base that on? I just looked over the build docs and the urutau requires many more operations, more drilling, more cutting, more everything.
Anonymous No.64122949 >>64122997
>>64120292
I welded the bolt, so I've not had any issues.
My main issue with the nutty has been the firing pin channel. Very annoying I feel like.
>Sccy barrel
Those are pistol barrels? How is heat dissipation. I tired smaller barrels and warping is a big issue.
>>64122673
It's not hard. I find the steps were super easy. Maybe that's just my autism mind or something. The manual is also the best on the urutau.
Building a Rebel 9 now. It's not been to hard. Just a bit time consuming.
Anonymous No.64122975
>>64120713
Get a Prusa mendal.
Anonymous No.64122993 >>64123117
>>64122262
Yeah, but why design something to look bad when it's just as easy to make t look good?
Anonymous No.64122997 >>64123102
>>64122949
I had a sccy barrel from a mixed lot of parts so I edited the retainers and shored it up with a 3d pen rather than buy a glock barrel. It's been okay so far but I enjoy building more than shooting so I don't have many rounds through it, it probably will overheat the bushings now that you mention it. Maybe I'll print some with asa. The channel was easy, I made a 1.5 inch and the bit did wander in the threads but a round needle file got it opened up enough. Did you drill through the channel from the front when it was assembled? Some of the plastics from the threads got pushed in screwing in the bolt and it needed to be cleaned out.
Anonymous No.64123102
>>64122997
I tried it two ways, it's been a moment, so I forget exactly what I did. But I think so. the bit wandering killed it for me. It was easier just to get threaded rod and make another FGC9. Cheaper for me too. Threaded rod in the right size is at my local store. So more opsec I guess.
>That barrel
That is very funny and clever. I make my lugs with PC or PET. Made one from a soda bottle roll my fren sent me.
Anonymous No.64123117 >>64124493
>>64122993
Anonymous No.64124360
Most highly recommended polymaker pro filament 2kg/$26.6

https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Filament-1-75mm-Powerful-Printer/dp/B0BYJG7H59?
Anonymous No.64124428 >>64124460 >>64125207 >>64136998
Alright anons

I'm thinking of designing a semi auto, slightly cowboy-style carbine for fun. My idea is a sjogren style reciprocating bolt (receiver?) that pulls backwards to feeds from a 10 or 20 round magazines and ejects at the furthest point of travel. Hard to describe but I'll post sketches later.

Why? Because I think it'll be fun.

The main reason I'm posting about it here is I want your advice for what cartridge.
Ideally it's something low pressure, rimmed, and cheap that isn't 9mm, so I'm thinking 38 special or maybe (*maybe*) 30 carbine. Also, I'm unsure where I'd go to talk about it if I end up actually deciding to follow through with the project. Anyway, thoughts?
Anonymous No.64124460
>>64124428
I'm not sure the sjogren action would work with light recoiling cartridges. You might be better off with an A5 action.
Anonymous No.64124493 >>64127069
>>64123117
>10 degree draft angle
>gusset
>extend the circle into an oval that reaches the plate
>auto supports
>print in halves and glue or pin them together
>tick the "make overhangs printable" box in orca
There's literally half a dozen different ways to make it not look like ass and none of them would have cost you more than 10 seconds.
Anonymous No.64124509
>>64091073
Im in the same boat as well, I have to have gone through at least over 20 accounts. You say anything remotely non PC like calling people fags or retards you get banned immediately, what a fucking shit hole. I cope with trying to read books for entertainment
Anonymous No.64124606
>>64106395
The A1 just works. For any 3d Printing if it just works with minimal out of the box work that is a sign that something is working great.
Anonymous No.64125207
>>64124428
.38 sounds good, the gatalog crew seems like the lowest drama group, they're who I plan to approach when I've got stls and a bom mostly finalized.
Anonymous No.64126066 >>64126670 >>64138119
>>64122203
You didn't say it was sailing, it just occurred to me I should have made it rmr, I don't have any doctor cut guns.
Anonymous No.64126670 >>64126976
>>64126066
I'll make an RMR eventually when I test this one more.
Anonymous No.64126976 >>64130940 >>64138119
>>64126670
Have you fired a gun with it attached? The fiberoptic on the one I just made looks like it might not stand up to recoil
Anonymous No.64127001 >>64138449 >>64148468
>>64090764
>>64098716
This has the same make believe fantasy energy as your fellow teenaged posters who nonchalantly try to brag about how they intend to, in the future when they grow up, become an anime artist and move to Japan
Anonymous No.64127061 >>64135301
>>64122228
Looks pretty good so far any plans for the LCRX or redhawk?
Anonymous No.64127069
>>64124493
Not him, just kind of tired of it.
Anonymous No.64127620
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64130041
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64130940
>>64126976
It should. The dagger slide I bought had a lot of issues that ultimately made it impossible to shoot, but I have thrown it at the concrete floor a couple times. Until PSA sends me some replacement parts I can't test much.
Anonymous No.64131367 >>64133301
hey guys, I modified the github lbrydseed to only download files from odysee channels, skipping videos. If enough interest is shown Ill throw the code up into github and write some instructions up. Im also not seeding the content so the blobfiles wont fill up your storage, I could include how to do that as well. This is nothing special, just modified some code and read the LBRY wiki on how to disable seeding.
Anonymous No.64133141
>>64122228
Most unrelated question I could ask but where's that fabric camo tape from?

>>64122310
It's a strange design for sure, I'll say that, but shooting both eyes open is how you're supposed to shoot all red dots AFAIK. No different from an OEG like the Armson with the exception being the aperture rear. I'm not the best when it comes to shooting both eyes (I use scopes way more than dots or irons) but both eyes is stupid fast and rather accurate when you get into the groove.
Anonymous No.64133301
>>64131367
Neat, can't really say I'm all too knowledgable but sounds like it would be useful.
Anonymous No.64133628
>>64122203
thats neat. is the dot actually projected forward?
Anonymous No.64135075 >>64135149 >>64135179 >>64137722
Digital Thermal Fusion
Anonymous No.64135149 >>64135712 >>64137722
>>64135075
Anonymous No.64135179 >>64135193
>>64135075
How much are you into it in parts?
Anonymous No.64135193
>>64135179
SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIET

250 for the Low res thermal
70 dollars for the raspberry pi
35 for the cheapo digital camera
and maybe 5 bucks of petg black matte.

Also, dual oled screens with lens is 600
Anonymous No.64135301 >>64135304 >>64137283
>>64127061
I don’t think the LCRx would work for that, however he did make a couple mounts for the LCRx, and a cool RMR mount for the LCR

1/3
Anonymous No.64135304 >>64135307
>>64135301
2/3
Anonymous No.64135307
>>64135304
Anonymous No.64135712
>>64135149
Neat, what software did you use?
Anonymous No.64135880
>>64104532
Need a beta tester?
Anonymous No.64136695
Bomp it
Anonymous No.64136998 >>64137155
>>64124428
Alright. Here's a crappy sketch that took a while because I don't Have much internet. Having sat down and started putting the idea to paper it seems like a bullpup option might genuinely be the best layout.
Anonymous No.64137049 >>64137155
Should I get that bambu lab printer, or should I get a resin printer?
Anonymous No.64137155 >>64137895
>>64136998
Getting hipoint carbine vibes

>>64137049
I don't think resin is to the point where you can make firearms or tools out of it yet. You'd be limited to figures, ornaments, refrigerator magnets and such with resin, which you could still do with an fdm printer, just at lower detail.
Anonymous No.64137283
>>64135301
Looks pretty neat thanks anon
Anonymous No.64137722
>>64135075
>>64135149
Please publish this.
Anonymous No.64137835
>>64090858
>>64091073
My last account was banned for no apparent reason at all. I don't even remember posting anything remotely controversial, it just got locked, then when I tried to unlock the account it either got banned or already was banned. I can only assume I re-used an IP someone who is mega-banned like this anon used.
Anonymous No.64137895 >>64137920
>>64137155
Sunlu Standard Resin looks suitable but not impressive. My biggest concern would be finding a resin printer big enough to make functional parts in one piece without needing to glue things together. FDM is definitely the way to go, though.
Anonymous No.64137920 >>64137998
>>64137895
I 1,000% promise you it is not even close to being good enough. not even for grips sometimes.
And any resin that is simply is not available or printable normally or affordable in any sense.
Anonymous No.64137998 >>64138318
>>64137920
The mechanical properties are right there, anon. Which one is insufficient? It's low on impact resistance and high on creep, but people print guns out of materials worse on both.
Anonymous No.64138119 >>64139146 >>64139514
>>64126066
>>64126976
I just made an rmr version. Can you test it for me an see if the dimensions are correct?
Anonymous No.64138318 >>64138418
>>64137998
Not him. but i will back up that it won't work.
Just look up a video or post on our shitty cousin.
Resin is a no go in every sense. and I say you should read that again. It's not what you think
Anonymous No.64138418 >>64139194 >>64140304
>>64138318
Okay, so which mechanical property is insufficient? I'll agree with you in general, the majority of resins are either too brittle or have too much creep. But that one specific resin has properties similar to the PLA+es and PETGs that people often make firearms out of. Do you have evidence of this specific resin failing in a typical 3d2a application? Or any reason at all why I shouldn't just discard your opinion?
Anonymous No.64138449
>>64127001
not in this day and age, home manufacture is a miracle right now
Anonymous No.64138714
>>64090858
>gundeals, fosscad, gunnitrust, diyguns, and gunsmithing.

Heh, on those and you are correct. Rest is a cesspool.
Anonymous No.64139146
>>64138119
Sure, it's printing now
Anonymous No.64139194 >>64139780
>>64138418
>PETGs that people often make firearms out of
I don't think anyone sensible is making guns out of PETG. The exact material properties that make a plastic suitable for firearms are hard to pin down, there isn't one or two metrics you can point to as being the requirements. PETG and resin tend to shatter from the shocks guns experience when firing. It's your money, and that resin might be the best thing ever, but everything I've heard about resin and seen with resin printed objects indicates they are not adequate for firearm components.
Anonymous No.64139226
>>64119411
>Line width is default and fine.
>that absolute mess in your OP is "fine"
LMAO
Drop the STL or 3MF link and I will print it just to show you how it SHOULD be printed.
Anonymous No.64139514 >>64139520 >>64139650
>>64138119
Just a little too long on the back, rmr is squared on the rear, at least the ones I have. If you squared it off at the back, cut that ~1.73mm extending curve off, it should snap in nicely.
Anonymous No.64139520 >>64139650 >>64139682
>>64139514
Anonymous No.64139650
>>64139514
>>64139520
I've edited it and changed the file. Hopefully it works now.
Anonymous No.64139665
>>64092393
>that beaver barf
nice gun friend
Anonymous No.64139682 >>64139922
>>64139520
I filed it down to 45.55 from 47.2 tip to tail, then pressed it in, the blue spots are where the recoil bosses indented the plastic. They could also be a little deeper. Screw holes look okay, maybe a touch forward but the unit is a little cocked at this point, should be easy for the end user to open up if they end up being tight.
Anonymous No.64139780
>>64139194
>PETG and resin tend to shatter from the shocks guns experience when firing.
That would be impact resistance you're referencing, and the impact strength of this resin is greater than that of most PETGs and PLAs and comparable to lower end PLA+s. It's about a third of what I'd call good, but I know for a fact that people print guns out of materials more brittle than this without exploding. Just last thread people were talking about buying some no-name PLA+ for $7/kg. That'll almost certainly be worse than this stuff.
>It's your money, and that resin might be the best thing ever,
It's not my money since I have no interest in buying a resin printer, and it's clearly not the best thing ever since it's at the absolute minimum of what I would consider acceptable.
>but everything I've heard about resin and seen with resin printed objects indicates they are not adequate for firearm components.
Considering this is the only one out of about a dozen resins in this document that's not blatantly unsuitable, I wouldn't expect to hear many success stories. On the other hand, its existence is proof that resin isn't an entirely lost cause.
Anonymous No.64139922 >>64140600
>>64139682
I've moved the indents and redid the rear a bit better.
Anonymous No.64140304 >>64140322 >>64140936
>>64138418
It's weaker.
I've used this exact stuff before. No matter what those things say, it's fucking weaker and the UV will make it worse over time on top of that from what I understand.
I made a resin .22 barrel for a EZ22, then I did it with fucking kingroon PLA.
The resin barrel exploded on the first shot into a fucking million pieces, the pla barrel lasted 14 rounds of colibri then cracked gracefully.
The only shit I saw that was good was some sirya tech something, like 200 usd a bottle, and if it fails it shatters bad, like bomb bad.

Just don't do it, I get it, you won't. But this gets brought up once a month by someone and it always devolves into this shit. We would be using resin if it worked. It looks fantastic.
Anonymous No.64140322 >>64140328 >>64140329
>>64140304
>Printing barrels
Yeah, you shouldn't do that with any plastic even for a squirrel cartridge.
Anonymous No.64140328 >>64140344
>>64140322
Maybe not, but in a comparative test 14 rnds vs 1 before detonating is pretty illustrative of the relative merits of using resin.

NTA, but thank you for your (EOD) service
Anonymous No.64140329 >>64140332 >>64140936
>>64140322
Works fine if you use the right material. And a steel insert. It's fun to play with those things.
Got like 60 rds in a pa6 barrel.
And some homemade cartridges with plastic barrels work good enough
Anonymous No.64140332
>>64140329
*The insert only supports the case, not the rifling.
Anonymous No.64140344 >>64140393
>>64140328
It doesn't reflect how resin might survive in a non-suicidal location like a lower receiver, though. Polycarbonate is also quite brittle and would also make an especially terrible barrel material, but it's not uncommon for receivers and it holds up fairly well.
Anonymous No.64140393 >>64177285
>>64140344
By all means print some resin funs and prove everyone wrong. People have been doing this shit for over a decade. It might look cool, but resin has never worked well. Pic rel. I remember the anon making the "banana stand-ard" glock frames in resin I think back in 2015. Maybe even earlier. The technology and materials were worse, but I also don't know if they have actually got that much better.

Ive printed glocks out of pla, woodpla, petg and pla+. Its fun printing in materials even less suitable than pla+. Sometimes they look cool and they might run for a few mags, but they are all shit. Even pla+ is shit under the right conditions. We arnt on a good to shit spectrum. We are on the shit to throw directly into the trash and forget about spectrum with 3D printed guns. They are all trash so just print shit and have fun.
Anonymous No.64140600
>>64139922
Thanks, I'll print it up and try again tomorrow
Anonymous No.64140936 >>64158839
>>64140304
NTA and I'm no resin expert but I'd maybe look into mixing some UVO (smooth-on product) into resins to prevent UV degradation but I doubt printer resins come with zero any UV protection so who knows how much it'd really help. Also you have no clue how much colorant or additives have already been added (too many additives = will not cure right) or how that will react with said resin (except small scale test in a cup). But yeah resin prints are pretty fucking brittle. There's a reason short of art a lot of resin (usually some kind of 2 part) being used in the world is fiberglass filled and not too structural. My advice is also not really gun related just in general for resin.

PS: for yellowing, UVO blue or purple would tint it a little blue and as it yellows become roughly more clear (though probably slightly gray maybe?) before it actually starts to show. Not sure if it's UV resin safe (check the label/datasheet). It won't do shit for gun print strength though, lol, probably worse strength considering it's yet another additive. I would only test it on clear resins, nothing like that opaque gray stuff. This is an old-ish resin trick. Also for UV protection, straight up paint shit. Maybe it was a SmarterEveryDay video but I remember a guy being interviewed about his backyard PVC pipe rollercoaster (this is a thing with a small community, believe it or not) and in his tests the number one thing that would prevent the PVC pipe from becoming brittle was simply one or two layers of any color of Rustoleum (except clear, duh). That easy. Sorry for rambling but just thought I'd chime in.

>>64140329
Sounds like DIY ghetto carbon fiber wrapped barrels lol.
Anonymous No.64141707 >>64141802 >>64145264
Anyone know where one could find files for the glock slide that is made in parts and screwed together?
Anonymous No.64141802 >>64145264 >>64147445 >>64147949 >>64149752
>>64141707
Last I heard Ivan made that but never let any of the files loose because it was too dangerous. However, you should be able to recreate it, I'm sure there's a reference model, and it's easy to add some negative cylinders and cut a model into sections in your slicer.
Anonymous No.64143684
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64145264 >>64145306 >>64145314
>>64141707
>>64141802
What's even the point of this? Why wouldn't you print it in one piece?
Anonymous No.64145306
>>64145264
There are parts that have to be metal, the breach face, the guide rod hole, the locking shoulder, if they were printed metal on plastic contact would snap them apart. For ease of manufacturing he made them a series of simple metal plates, vastly easier than machining a solid slide. If I didn't have a print going I'd try spinning one up, damn this hobby gives me ADD.
Anonymous No.64145314 >>64145350
>>64145264
because some of us like having fingers
Anonymous No.64145350 >>64145371
>>64145314
It seems to me like a slide held together with screws is a lot more likely to cost you fingers than one printed in one piece with metal inserts.
Anonymous No.64145371
>>64145350
They need to be held in place in relation to one another, the plastic couldn't handle the stresses. Sounds like even as built it couldn't reliably handle them.
Anonymous No.64147445
>>64141802
I took a quick crack at it, and it's way too much fooling around for an iffy joke slide if I'm not proving a point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mD81-nrpPEE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZySn_QMD_A0&pp=0gcJCa0JAYcqIYzv
Anonymous No.64147949 >>64149746 >>64156994
>>64141802
What if you sliced the whole thing into plates had send cut send laser cut it then screwed it together?
Anonymous No.64148468
how fast should i crank up a centauri carbon in the slicer? I want to print he AWCY scorpion

>>64127001
YOURE NOT MY DAD GREG, YOURE JUST ANOTHER SACK OF SHIT MY MOM GAVE HERPES AND HPV TO!! SHE LIED TO YOU AGAIN!! THE TRAILER BELONGS TO T HE BANK AND THEY WANT HER OUT!! I'M GOING TO GET A FREE JAPANESE HOUSE AND A A A A A WAIFU AND EAT SUSHI LIKE KEN-SAMA!!!
Anonymous No.64148526 >>64149104 >>64149251
>>64090590 (OP)
3D printing works best when it is gears towards accessories or spare parts. Actual frames for firearms are still risky and printing barrels is often out of the question.
Anonymous No.64149104
>>64148526
>Actual frames for firearms are still risky and printing barrels is often out of the question.
for now. im wondering the future materials...
Anonymous No.64149251
>>64148526
Pipes are still cheap
Anonymous No.64149746
>>64147949
in concept I dont see why not
Anonymous No.64149752 >>64149856
>>64141802
Was thinking about the fully metal one.
Top in one part, sides in 2 parts and then the striker housing in one part.
Anonymous No.64149856 >>64149891 >>64151269
>>64149752
You just reminded me some swedes already did that, ordered them in parts from cnc shops in china.

https://homemadeguns.wordpress.com/2023/03/04/men-in-sweden-charged-with-smuggling-diy-and-3d-printed-glock-parts-from-china/
Anonymous No.64149891 >>64151269
>>64149856
Anonymous No.64151269 >>64152307
>>64149856
>>64149891
This is the one i was thinking about, are there any files around?
Though i also know that there's one with it turned into even more parts.
Anonymous No.64152307 >>64154829
>>64151269
https://odysee.com/@my3D2Afilecollection:9/Glock-17-DIY-Slide-2PIN-3SCREW:b
Tony's copy of ivan's printed slide
https://odysee.com/@DatTonny:9/DatTonnyPlastock19:6

There was also someone working on a weldable one. Isn't the internet great?
Anonymous No.64152671 >>64152722
I put the new CM-1 from Ivan into my FGC-9. I had a cheap fire control group in before, but it would binary sometimes. The new one light strikes now. I cleaned it out, sharpened the firing pin, tightened the barrel retainer and it still the same. I think now I'm going to need a little longer firing pin. The strikes on the primer are just a little off center, so maybe a new bolt and upper would help too. I'll try some of the stuff in the FAQ and see if that helps.
Anonymous No.64152722 >>64152787
>>64152671
Have enough mass and spring in your hammer?
Anonymous No.64152787 >>64153014
>>64152722
I used a hex bolt instead of a socket head, but I think it should be the same mass. Its the same spring in the guide. I have a feeling, it has to do with the off center primer strikes. I should also lube it...
Anonymous No.64153014
>>64152787
off center should'nt make too much of a difference unless it's way off, I'd try sanding contact surfaces smooth and lubing as you'd suggested first.
Anonymous No.64154829
>>64152307
I just love innovation when it comes to guns, really tickles my pickle.
Anonymous No.64154907 >>64159567
This seems very promising, trigger is tricky to get working, and it still seems kind of sticky, but this is a step in the right direction.
Anonymous No.64156653
>>64090590 (OP)
Anonymous No.64156994
>>64147949
It works but you end up with a much bulkier device.
Anonymous No.64157896
Bump it
Anonymous No.64158839
>>64140936
Those are fun, lol.
But these are straight plastic in some cases. My PET barrel lasted 6 rounds then cracked, but didn't detonate, so that's nice.
Anonymous No.64159567
>>64154907
Puns are the lowest form of humor.
Anonymous No.64160123 >>64161086 >>64161271 >>64163799
just CRUSIN WITH MY CENTAURI CARBON
Anonymous No.64161086 >>64161204 >>64163799
>>64160123
I love this damn thing.
Anonymous No.64161204 >>64161264
>>64161086
Standard 9mm? And what are you using for the bolt?
Anonymous No.64161264
>>64161204
I have no idea, I'm just drunk on the ability to print them properly.

9mm and I've been researching the meta and checking the various EE's I'm on. I'm going to reprint the lower, since the one in pic is the one good thing i got off my CR10V1 before the power supply unit fried itself.
Anonymous No.64161271 >>64161837
>>64160123
Random noprints question, are the tree like supports for style or is that just best practices, kinda funny if it is considering how organic looking they are vs something more artificial shape wise
Anonymous No.64161398
>>64090590 (OP)
> Did this site die when it went down?

Feels like it. But thats what happen when you dont update a site, it gets compromised.
Anonymous No.64161656 >>64161762 >>64161918
>>64090590 (OP)
I'm interested in getting started in 3dp, I'll probably do some /k/ related stuff down the line but Ive suddenly realized that I work in a field dealing with tons of overpriced and sometimes out of production plastic components and could probably sell them directly to my employer in some cases. Does anybody have recommendations on good sources of info for getting a grounding in 3dp or recommendations on lower cost setups that aren't complete garbage?
Anonymous No.64161762 >>64161847
>>64161656
Your interested in designing? Or just printing things that are already printable files?

Bambu printers are good and pretty much turn key, there are a few sales on other brands that are okay but may not be as easy to use.
https://www.sovol3d.com/collections/flas-sale

https://us.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-4-pro-fdm-3d-printer
Anonymous No.64161837
>>64161271
"Default" supports waste a lot of filament and increase print time, the tree supports actually help because of how it tapers down to a finer branch as it gets taller and the multiple branches allow overhang between contact points. Basically leveraging the ability of the filament to be printed across a short enough gap without deforming.
If you have a design you are going to print multiple times you may want to manually design your supports so you save the most time and material, but it's not worth it for one-offs/prototyping.
Anonymous No.64161847 >>64161918 >>64163171
>>64161762
For work related stuff I'd have originals to copy but maybe that qualifies as designing, I'm thinking that since the components are plastic hopefully I wouldn't have to change dimensions like when substituting plastic components for metal ones. Are reasonably cheap 3d scanners for that sort of work a thing or are we talking about a ton of hand measuring and using 3d design software vs busting out 4 figures for a 3d scanner?

Thank you for the recommendations.
Anonymous No.64161918 >>64163383 >>64163808
>>64161656
>>64161847
Bit of a generic followup question if anybody is feeling generous, it's retarded but I think finding genuine answers via Google would be a bit annoying. How well do 3dp components handle pressure? I'd think the plastic itself would be fine for my uses if I picked a suitable one but maybe delamination or something is an issue. For an example the highest pressure I've seen on relevant components acting as a vessel(well, properly working ones...) is under 40psi while staying water tight. Would 3dp vessels work for that or would they be failure prone for reasons that a Luddite like me wouldn't Intuit?
Anonymous No.64162552
BUMP
Anonymous No.64163171
>>64161847
>or are we talking about a ton of hand measuring and using 3d design software vs busting out 4 figures for a 3d scanner?
Calipers and gitgud at 3d modeling. I actually cant think of anything 3DP related that came from a scan. In my (limited) experience the scans make meshes that are nigh impossible to work with when you start talking about a few thousandths of adjustment to get something to fit just right. The geometry is all trash for parts that interact with anything else. Once you get into the pure unadulterated autism that is 3d modeling you will never want to work with a mesh object again.

Generally with firearms or other engineered parts they all started life as a drawing or maybe if something more recent a 3d model. Then it had to be milled, forged etc. Once you start to understand how things are drawn, modeled and machined the forms start to become very obvious and easy to understand.
Anonymous No.64163383 >>64163386
>>64161918
printing things water tight is tough even without pressure, the water sweats through layer lines and sometimes finds seam holes, people can do it with enough skill and fiddling but it isn't something the medium lends itself to.
Anonymous No.64163386
>>64163383
ABS then vapor smooth is my preferred way of water tight.
Anonymous No.64163799
>>64161086
>>64160123
OH SHIT I'MMMA GONNNA PROOOOOONT!!!!

AWCY? CZ Scorpion lower incoming. fuckers going to be pricey once its done but I'm doing it for the clout.
Anonymous No.64163808
>>64161918
you anneal that kind of thing in powdered salt or whatever is the current best thing. and thats a bit of a trick question. our 3d printing is FDM, and that's varying plastics with various pressure capacities. once metal powder 3d printers reach $5K its game over
Anonymous No.64165235
Bump
Anonymous No.64166331 >>64166365 >>64166459
L-X22 (10/22) Receiver
Anonymous No.64166365
>>64166331
Looks nice. Has there been any complications with your current printer?
Anonymous No.64166459
>>64166331
Was gonna do a 712 myself, but I wasn't paying attention and bought a magnum kit. Now I can try to reverse engineer the receiver or procrastinate until someone else measures and designs one up.
Anonymous No.64167187 >>64167278
I'm printing out a Mini 14 mag body I picked up off guncadindex which appears to be some sort of third party magazine to try and start designing a printable Mini 14 magazine set. The lack of printable mags is kind of a travesty at this point considering how many mini 14s are in existence and how much OEM magazines cost. Tapco inventory is still floating around out there but I doubt that will be the case for much longer.
Anonymous No.64167278 >>64167640 >>64168199
>>64167187
god speed. The 4 people who actually own mini 14s and 3d printers will thank you
Anonymous No.64167640 >>64168199
>>64167278
Thinking there are four mini14 owners with printers seems optimistic.
Anonymous No.64168199 >>64171513 >>64171689
>>64167640
>>64167278
I just checked the printed out magazine body. It is a copy of a John Masen or another stamped metal body. The important thing to me at least is that it fits correctly into my mini 14 which tells me the geometry is correct in regards to the front hole and rear tab of the magazine. Additionally it is dimensionally close to the tapco mag I can compare it to.

How they were able to keep the tapco mag so durable is by heavier wall thickness. The magazine also has a nub in the rear which indicates where the bottom of the magwell is which there is a similar one on my model. This shouldn't actually be that hard. I have also read up on the magazine spring and think I should be able to adapt ar15 springs with a redesigned follower. Lots of work still to be done but this is very promising.
Anonymous No.64169884
Bumpit
Anonymous No.64170080
I want to build the .22 scorpion to go super safe, but how the fuck do you remove the bolt to clean it? It looks like you have to undo the bolts and completely take the gun apart to remove it. I may just do a deAR22 instead.
Anonymous No.64171513 >>64171689
>>64168199
>This shouldn't actually be that hard
and so another 2yr long project was born
Anonymous No.64171689
>>64168199
>>64171513
Just watching a podcast with magpul guys, they said mini14 mags were particularly difficult to do especially in plastic.
Anonymous No.64172643 >>64173374
I tested out my scopes and it gave varying results. It's definitely not as good as a real red dot, but it still functions. I'll have the video up today maybe
Anonymous No.64173374
>>64172643
There's apparently a FOSSDot out and about that you might check out. It's more technical than I'm capable of messing with but
Anonymous No.64173598 >>64179743
eSun pla+ recommended in most build docs, 9kg for $92, if you buy white or red.

https://www.amazon.com/promotion/psp/A3OPLEXWFZPIVM
Anonymous No.64174289 >>64175901
>>64090858
There was a half decent darknet chan for awhile, but they even shill on that now. Somewhere between 2016 and now, some mega Jewish shilling factory took hold of the internet in its entirety, and refuses to let go no matter what. Crazy most kids will never know what the "real" internet was like.
Anonymous No.64175901
>>64174289
>t3h joos killed da interwebs! my wide open popular forums are low quality!
Imagine being this stupid
Anonymous No.64177117 >>64181318
>>64092743
.32 isn't gonna work out, I had a piece of 1/4 with a 0.331-0.347 id that naturally chambered .32 nicely. I went and bought a piece to make sure it was reproduceable but it was 0.375 and swallowed the round. It's possible to open that up with sandpaper on a drill rod to .38, but way more work than I was going for. Maybe there is seamless with the right id, but I was aiming for standard hardware store parts. Good thing 3/8 pipe is still ~0.48.
Anonymous No.64177285
>>64140393
>but I also don't know if they have actually got that much better.
NTA and this is way later; Faster and cheaper but the technology is essentially the same- photosensitive resin cured in layers.
Just cheaper and faster because most accessible resin machines use monochromatic LCD screens rather than fucking with a laser and galvos, so you cure a whole layer at the same time. There are engineering resins but they're fuck-off expensive and a bit finnicky like any resin, but the issue IMO isn't really the material but the technology.
Resin *looks* better, but is still layers, and worse than FFF, they're layers being cured at different points, then cured after in a post process where most users probably aren't using a real curing oven, and depending on the print UV is not hitting the internal volume of the print. I couldn't articulate the fine science of it but basically with the way most people print and post process resin I think the layers of the prints are actually less laminated than FFF prints, which is why resin prints often end up being crap for functional purposes.

I'm interested in that new volumetric shit NASA and some people have been working on; printing the whole object all at once like a fucking hologram in a vat not only sounds like black magic, but would offer a part free of layer lines, which is the most fundamental issue with 3D prints right now.
Anonymous No.64179743 >>64179808
>>64173598
>9kg
that is like 120 glocks dude
Anonymous No.64179808
>>64179743
I'm shocked how fast I go through filament, 9kg doesn't go as far as you'd think.
Anonymous No.64181318
>>64177117
Yeah, you would have to find a correct size pipe from ali or something. The weird american stuff may not have the right size.
Or do some ECM. :)
I've used Imortal revolts 32 stuff for a single shot with very good results.