>>28499379 (OP)Buy once cry once.
Do your research and use quality parts and they won't become problems again.
(You can do the work yourself right anon?)
>>28499449>The car is rusting out thanks to our winter road saltwoolwax/pb surface shield
A quick spray over everything keeps everything pristine all year. The waxes seep and creep so it stops any existing corrosion from progressing as well (which you should deal with of course). Summer rains wash the salt off, and you just reapply in autumn. Or just hose it off if necessary. Easy as pie.
For people who didn't know any better and already have bad corrosion then that means more work. Bad news doesn't improve with age and rust never sleeps though, so the sooner you deal with spots of corrosion the better and easier it always is.
Wire brush to knock scale off, alox scuff pad to show bare metal, and phosphoric acid spray to convert pitted rust and prep the metal for coating (I recommend mastercoat metal prep or other solution with zinc phosphate). Get a cavity spray adaptor for hard to reach areas (this goes for lanolin wax coating as well).
The industry standard for corrosion protection is aluminized moisture cured urethanes. Same stuff as the CARC/chemical agent resistant coatings used on military vehicles. Low oxygen permeability and seeping into microfeatures to prevent underrun are the keys. I recommend spi rust grip, mastercoat rust encapsulator, or rust bullet industrial as primers, and spi enamo grip, mastercoat ag111, rust bullet duragrade, or vandlguard isofree aliphatic urethane as topcoats. If you use a clear coat you can use a colour coat in between the primer and top coat. This is what you would do for paint correction. If you want something you can pick up from a store and walk out with, then rustoleum professional rusty metal or tractor primer, and ro professional high performance or tractor enamel. These are polyolefin/alkyd based coatings so not as good. Okay for replaceable components though.
