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Thread 28572116

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Anonymous No.28572116 >>28572253 >>28572401 >>28572663 >>28573145 >>28573318
How do I turn it into a proper racing machine?
Anonymous No.28572125 >>28572136 >>28572401 >>28573131 >>28573203 >>28573815 >>28574018
Strip interior, roll cage, replace brake hoses with braided stainless lines, rebuild calipers or see if there is a cheap junkyard upgrade for bigger ones + a master cylinder to compensate, roll cage, racing seat with harness, add some front negative camber and toe out to improve turn in, fresh high-temp coolant, racing brake fluid/pads, just freshen up all the fluids actually. Good tires/spec tires for your class.
Anonymous No.28572136
>>28572125
This anon races. I'll add for 8th gen civics especially, a rear sway bar goes a long way for handling. The non-si's came with an awful thin one. Eventually having f+r strut braces is a good idea as well, sirimoto makes good ones
Anonymous No.28572253
>>28572116 (OP)
Sell it and get something that sends at least 50% of the torque to the rear wheels.
Anonymous No.28572401 >>28572466 >>28573203
>>28572116 (OP)
>>28572125
As far as fluids go, I'd recommend mishimoto liquid chill for coolant, as long as it's compatible your engine chemistry. Just does all the things you want in a coolant well without worry. Redline supercool is also good.
Brake fluid you can't beat react srf or torque rt700. Alternately, gulf rf800/1000 motul rbf600 or amsoil synthetic if you want to pinch pennies. (If you want to go out there with prestone max you're too cheap to do this as a hobby.)
High viscosity engine oil is a must, and also formulation quality is a must, to protect the engine from the abuse you'll give it. SAE 40 grade minimum, 50-60 ideally; just make sure its cold flowing viscosity is also compatible with what your engine expects. You can go with hpl pcmo premium plus or 'bad ass racing oil' in 5w-50 or 0w-40, depending on the time of year/your local conditions. You can also get your transmission and diff fluids from them. Your 'civic' calls for winter 0 grade but if it is real hot then the 5w-50 could also work/would be better. There are a lot of other brands that sell 50 grade oils too but these are also often just as expensive for less quality at the same time. Penzoil ultra platinum 0w-40 can work in a pinch if you need something from a grocery store right that day for whatever reason, just make sure you change it quickly.
In the old days of hydraulic steering people would often just top it off with spare atf and it would work fine. From what i hear honda specifically makes its steering housings out of stuff that will disintegrate if you don't put their proprietary fluid in it though. May or may not be apocryphal, but probably not worth the risk.
Finally, swap the engine out for an Elmer Thor 4L i4 v2. They machine the blocks to fit your transmission so u can just callem up bro.
Anonymous No.28572466
>>28572401
Dang bro, I mean 4 figure horsepower out of a 4 banger is pretty incredible
Anonymous No.28572663 >>28573078
>>28572116 (OP)
Nitrous. NOTHING is faster than a civic with NOS.
Anonymous No.28573078
>>28572663
Two of the big ones. And Harry, I need them by tonight.
Anonymous No.28573131
>>28572125
+ basic grassroots aero shit
Anonymous No.28573145
>>28572116 (OP)
slow piece of shit...i can smoke the fuck out of this in my 2007 FA hatch with a couple of simple mods
Anonymous No.28573203 >>28573246
>>28572125
>>28572401
Can you please give me a similar breakdown on how to do this to a Subaru Crosstrek please. My dream is that vehicle but with a non-shitty engine/trans.
Anonymous No.28573246
>>28573203
Go back to your other thread where I told you to just buy a WRX wagon or an STI.
Anonymous No.28573318
>>28572116 (OP)
Don't bother if it's not an Si
Anonymous No.28573815
>>28572125
H&R springs
Anonymous No.28574018
>>28572125
and don't forget the roll cage!