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6/26/2025, 5:18:48 AM
Going thru clutch hydraulic hell on an FA (8th gen) Civic.
Replaced master and slave with Exedy at 186k. Taiwan made. Brand I thought I could trust. 3 months and 5k miles later the clutch actuation point has moved and I found air in the system which was previously bled. Fucking seals must be going. Fluid's dark now too.
My pops went thru a MC every 10k miles on his Element before ditching the car. The Civic is a nightmare to change the MC on so I hope not to do that many replacements.
Can't find any info on what fluid Exedy wants me to use. Honda says DOT3. Can't find any evidence if the $200 Nissin OEM MC is worth it over the $50 Exedy.
Can't find good info on how to adjust all the adjustments. Should the MC rod be allowed to extend fully? Or should the pedal-stop stop it just shy of full extension? Seems to me the MC should fully extend so it's not putting any pressure on the slave/pressure plate. But online some guys say to stop it short of extension.
To add insult to injury the fucking clutch pedal clicks each time it's pressed and it seems like it's coming from the master. It stopped for about a day after changing the MC.
Some say the OEM design is bad and to backdate to the previous gen civic master. Then, the line needs changed to fit as well. But then you rely on low quality forum comments from Spanish teenagers in 2011 to tell you how to adjust the mod parts to work.
The fuck happened to parts that just fucking work. I guess I have to just bite the bullet on an OEM for $200? And eat shit when that too fails in a year? Gotta replace the slave every time too, right?
To be fair when I replaced the OEM master/slave at 186k, it was just the slave that had failed. Really just selling myself on the OEM cylinder at this point.
Captcha mocking my manual trans drama with "PRNR4J" aka PRND 4U
Replaced master and slave with Exedy at 186k. Taiwan made. Brand I thought I could trust. 3 months and 5k miles later the clutch actuation point has moved and I found air in the system which was previously bled. Fucking seals must be going. Fluid's dark now too.
My pops went thru a MC every 10k miles on his Element before ditching the car. The Civic is a nightmare to change the MC on so I hope not to do that many replacements.
Can't find any info on what fluid Exedy wants me to use. Honda says DOT3. Can't find any evidence if the $200 Nissin OEM MC is worth it over the $50 Exedy.
Can't find good info on how to adjust all the adjustments. Should the MC rod be allowed to extend fully? Or should the pedal-stop stop it just shy of full extension? Seems to me the MC should fully extend so it's not putting any pressure on the slave/pressure plate. But online some guys say to stop it short of extension.
To add insult to injury the fucking clutch pedal clicks each time it's pressed and it seems like it's coming from the master. It stopped for about a day after changing the MC.
Some say the OEM design is bad and to backdate to the previous gen civic master. Then, the line needs changed to fit as well. But then you rely on low quality forum comments from Spanish teenagers in 2011 to tell you how to adjust the mod parts to work.
The fuck happened to parts that just fucking work. I guess I have to just bite the bullet on an OEM for $200? And eat shit when that too fails in a year? Gotta replace the slave every time too, right?
To be fair when I replaced the OEM master/slave at 186k, it was just the slave that had failed. Really just selling myself on the OEM cylinder at this point.
Captcha mocking my manual trans drama with "PRNR4J" aka PRND 4U
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