I'm about to start printing the second half of my self watering flowerbox and I'm trying to avoid ALL curling along the edges. I'm printing on a raft already, which is printed onto painters tape that is pressed down really hard against the build plate, and has gluestick applied to it. The tape and glue is fresh. Last time the tape itself started to peel up a little bit. Not enough to be a real problem but I'd like to see if I can improve it. Hence fresh tape and glue and pressing the tape really hard. I'm also extending the raft an extra few mm's past the model. I think last time I had it set at 5 or 6, and I'm gonna go with 6 or 8 this time I think, just to help spread the force over a wider area of the tape.

The other thing I can do is heat the entire build chamber. I'm not sure what a good temp is for that though. Ambient temp is around 23C, and it gets to 27 ish just from the heat the machine generates. I figure maintaining a slightly higher temperature, say 35C to 40C might keep the PLA from peeling up with as much force, but I also dont want to make it so warm that the tape and/or gluestick becomes less sticky and have the whole thing backfire on me. Any suggestions?

(Also, I re-designed the model so i can print the outer shell on the z18 which can print at up to 200mm/s but doesn't accelerate fast enough to get there unless it has plenty of distance to do it over, and then print the curvy parts in smaller sections that just drop in on our K1 SE which has absurd acceleration by comparison. pic related. Estimated print time is currently about 1 day 5 hours which means it will probably take about 2.5 days to actually finish. I could make some more tweaks to speed it up but I'm not planning anything drastic at this stage. For reference the first one with the wiggly bits took 98 hours.

>>TLDR: what chamber temp should I use to minimize corner curling on a VERY wide footprint print that is printing onto gluestick covered painters tape and no heated build plate?