Last Thread: >>2928764
Calibrated purge blocks edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#371

>>2933197 (OP)
sick my travesty spotted in op
im trying another fig, this time increased min layer time, thinner layers + adaptive layering for the top surfaces. hope it turns out better

>>2933138
>With the inductive principle and the cap in place you will always be protected from arcing
I mean without the cap, and with the workpiece electrodes connected to either end of the inductor. That way the steady-state voltage across the workpiece is zero, regardless of power supply voltage. Short mitigation would be more difficult, but assuming the ESR of the inductor is higher than the workpiece shorted resistance it would easily be measurable. If not you could still have live AC impedance measurement of the inductor/workpiece, or just eat the momentary short with the transistor and rely on the total ESR to limit current.

>Well one use case is definately contouring
You could do that with 4-axis wire EDM too, like those CNC foam cutters that move either end of the hot-wire around, or with a synchronous rotary axis. That wouldn’t be a job for Marlin though. Sure you don’t want to cram GRBL on that Mega2560 Ramps board?

ECM would need a much thicker wire anyhow to take the higher current, so maybe impacts wouldn’t be an issue. I’d suggest to use a titanium wire, it’s strong and pretty good in electrochemistry, but whatever you pick would need to be immune to electroplating.

Is the mainboard underneath the bed in this printer of yours? It would be a water leak risk.

this one turned out a bit better, i think slower speed settings, thinner layers and increased min layer time helped

but i think setting adaptive layering screwed up the print overall. im not entirely sure but look at the 'banding' for lack of better word on the face and the back (hair?). Can I fix this by sanding or will the color always be banded?

might try to print this again tomorrow without adaptive, just full min layer height, see if it makes a difference.

>Yes please give me indian subscribers!

>>2933228
>inb4 get a room fags
so I talked to G-EDM, he already has a motion planner that backtracks.
>connect the workpiece across the inductor
clearly means you can get sustained shorts. You might have arcs depending how much you squeeze the timing. I guess generally not.
>contouring using W-EDM
yeah that's exactly what I meant. W-EDM is suited for contouring and sinker. EDM for cavities. Mostly.
4 axis? Why? I mean there is n axis W-EDMs, that way you can for example add a draft angle to a mold you're cutting. But for contouring you need 2 axis in my mind.
>you don't
bet? But I dont have time for that. If I really wamt to waste much time. making am entire EDM. i'll ask G-EDM for his thing.
>water leak risk
I can not really see how that is going to play out in a way that has any consequences but also I do already have a general sense that I do not want fluids on or in this or many other devices really. But you know how omelettes are made.

Finally seem to have ABS printing without bed separation, blue tape helped a bit, gluestick not at all, ABS melted in acetone then spread on the bed while preheated finally did the trick.
Foregrip and Picatinny for my .22

I think I’ll print some TPU bushings for my bicycle luggage rack, so it doesn’t clatter as much. Also my rear wheel cup/cone bearings are getting loose only 6 months after getting this new wheel, so the shocks and force from heavy luggage may have contributed to that.

40 hours total, and it finished with this much on the spool.
I really hope this works.
Fully dense prints are always amusing in their own way.

Shit keeps snapping off I thought PETG was supposed to be not brittle ;(

>>2933396
nah thats ABS/ASA

>>2933396
Who told you that? It's a little more flexible than PLA, but it's not less brittle.

>>2933411
I'm gonna be honest I looked up on Google for something "less brittle than PLA" and the AI (the one that always shows up on Google) said PETG. My build must be among the first casualties to AI.

>kid wants some shitty overpriced gun fidget toy he saw on tiktok
>not gonna pay $70 for drop shipped chink crap
>try to find something similar I can print
>nothing has all the features
Any idea of pistol toys that you can cycle the action and eject shells with? Only shell ejection toy I could find with a cursory look was this shotgun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4311341

>>2933412
It actually seems to be a common opinion, I guess because people conflate stiffness with brittleness. All of the hype for PETG and PCTG is just that, they've got slightly better heat resistance than PLA and that's it. They're less stiff while being just as brittle as normal non-plus PLA.

If you need something that's strong, tough, and printable on any machine, the clear winners are Polymaker PLA Pro and Bambu Lab PLA Basic (their Tough PLA isn't actually better. Not really worse, though).

Or, if you have an enclosure, you might consider ASA (eSun looks like the best from my old version of the MTF spreadsheet but there might be better) or PC (most are brittle, 3DO PC-PBT and Polymaker Polymax PC are very tough).

>>2933413
Just print an actual pistol, there's plenty of 3d2a glock designs out there. Print the barrel and don't put a firing pin in it.

>>2933417
I'm not committing a felony to give my kid a toy. I'd probably be doing it at 1/2 scale anyway

>>2933414
worth noting that polymaker ASA puts out much less fumes than other brands
>>2933413
>>2933418
loads of these on kults but most cost money
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/browning-hi-power-non-firing-replica

>>2933396
My PETG prototype wheel doohickey - pinion shaft snaps on impact. Looks cool though

>>2933418
It wouldn't be a felony. First off, it's entirely legal to manufacture your own firearms as long as you're not selling them. Secondly, without a firing pin or a functional barrel it's not a firearm, it's a nonfunctioning replica.

>>2933433
Fair, not something I've particaurly looked in to, I just don't wanna give feds any ammo.

>>2933426
If you’re using metal bearings, why not use metal shafts?

>>2933439
Have you considered that whatever toy you print could be just as easily construed as an illegal firearm even if the fat police decide one day that they'd really like to shoot your dog?

>>2933421
>polymaker ASA puts out much less fumes than other brands
Source? I don't see a VOCs comparison of filaments anywhere.

nichemaxxing

>>2933421
man that's cool as fuck but i aint paying for a 3d model.

>>2933573
>source
personal experience
>>2933635
eh, the guy designed and tested a working replica he can have a couple beers for the effort

>>2933635
https://odysee.com/@MaxRet:1/glock-17-gen-3-working-parts-prop-gun-advanced-frame:e

>found a Raise3D N2 Plus on the side of the road
>hotend replaced with a slice3d mosquito
>mainboard replaced with a SKR1.4 with some red anozided aluminium tablet thing that doesn't work

I'm thinking of putting Klipper on it, and running it off a MiniPC.

>>2933658
Give it back, Jamal.

>>2933642
based

How "safe" are .stl and .3mf files? Like is it possible to inject malware that runs upon opening them in a slicer? I just kinda now realized how nonchalantly I open those files that I essentially get from a random person on the internet when I'm somewhat cautious of allowing a Steam game admin privileges.

>>2933699
in principle an STL is just a text file that lists the vertices of your triangulated model. how that relates to cyber security or how safe it is to open arbitrary files you find online I have no idea

>>2933639
>he can have a couple beers for the effort
Price vs # of downloads, the guy has made over a grand on it, that's plenty of beers.

I'm about to start printing the second half of my self watering flowerbox and I'm trying to avoid ALL curling along the edges. I'm printing on a raft already, which is printed onto painters tape that is pressed down really hard against the build plate, and has gluestick applied to it. The tape and glue is fresh. Last time the tape itself started to peel up a little bit. Not enough to be a real problem but I'd like to see if I can improve it. Hence fresh tape and glue and pressing the tape really hard. I'm also extending the raft an extra few mm's past the model. I think last time I had it set at 5 or 6, and I'm gonna go with 6 or 8 this time I think, just to help spread the force over a wider area of the tape.

The other thing I can do is heat the entire build chamber. I'm not sure what a good temp is for that though. Ambient temp is around 23C, and it gets to 27 ish just from the heat the machine generates. I figure maintaining a slightly higher temperature, say 35C to 40C might keep the PLA from peeling up with as much force, but I also dont want to make it so warm that the tape and/or gluestick becomes less sticky and have the whole thing backfire on me. Any suggestions?

(Also, I re-designed the model so i can print the outer shell on the z18 which can print at up to 200mm/s but doesn't accelerate fast enough to get there unless it has plenty of distance to do it over, and then print the curvy parts in smaller sections that just drop in on our K1 SE which has absurd acceleration by comparison. pic related. Estimated print time is currently about 1 day 5 hours which means it will probably take about 2.5 days to actually finish. I could make some more tweaks to speed it up but I'm not planning anything drastic at this stage. For reference the first one with the wiggly bits took 98 hours.

>>TLDR: what chamber temp should I use to minimize corner curling on a VERY wide footprint print that is printing onto gluestick covered painters tape and no heated build plate?

>>2933727
Why are you using tape? What's your build surface?

>>2933727
Oh, and its being printed in PLA

>>2933728
Short answers for why is because that's what the people I got it from were doing and it seems to work reasonably well, even without the gluestick.

Under the painters tape is makerbots fancy build plate sticker that they sell packs of 3 for $125. I recently got a pair of new to me z18s that I plan on modifying and they dont have the painters tape over them. I tried those out and the adhesion just isnt very good. the build surface is a tray that is removable from the machine and is made of ABS. Keep in mind this machine was closed source as hell and iits like 10 years old. It has great bones/potential but without modifying them you just have to put up with some quirks.

>>2933727
>no heated buildplate
Maybe you could try magnets? If heat isn't a worry there's no risk of them getting de-magnetized so you could probably find some big ones that aren't too expensive

Need help.
A1 or P1S?

>>2933730
>ABS build plate
What the fuck, lmao. If there's a PEI build plate for some other machine that you can make fit, do that. Otherwise, buy a bare sheet of PCB from Amazon or Aliexpress and cut it to size.

Ok my TPU is really fucking wet. Got it in my diy drier with the lid cracked to let the water out at 55C. Considering it’s already well above the glass transition temperature, and the melting point is at least 150C, would there by an issue with cranking a TPU drier up to 90C? Not that mine can do that, yet. I just want to know if it will go sticky and fuse my roll together. Well, I do have 3 more of these rolls so it wouldn’t be the end of the world.

>>2933727
Why not make the curvy part slot in? Looks like you'll just be gluing it to a flush surface.

>>2933749
P1S if you ever plan to print anything other than PLA, or intend on putting your printer in a cold garage like I do.

>>2933721
>I won't pay for something because other people have
OK, whatever

>>2933197 (OP)
Friends and I decided to play DnD and I want to print characters for the game. I don't want to pay a fortune to a 3d printer so what are some cheap ones that can print figures in an acceptable quality?

>>2933787
You're likely wanting to go for a resin printer. Printing minis in FDM is possible, but it's finicky and the results still don't compare to the cheapest of SLA printers. That said, the resin you use is toxic and you'll want to look into the amount of care that needs to be put into keeping the resin from ending up on surfaces, in air, and on skin. See the /tg/ board's thread for 3D printing, they're all about resin over there.

Anyone have any idea what could be going wrong with my prints? Im getting bed separation with ABS. Cleaned the PEI sheet with soap and water, tried a different spool of ABS. Using the exact same file on a basically identical Bambu p1s. Both machines have been purchased like a few weeks apart a month ago. The machines were running both prints flawlessly and one of them still is then all of a sudden the ends on my print started to curl up on one of my machines. Im starting to think either the file is corrupted, Both PEI sheets are busted, or I have two bad rolls of filament. Doors are closed and the chamber and bed seem to be hot. Have no idea what else it could be.

>>2933788
Thank you anon. I want to avoid resin because it'll be a lot more expensive for what is essentially a one time impulsive purchase. I'll look at /tg/ though.

>>2933792
>I want to avoid resin because it'll be a lot more expensive for what is essentially a one time impulsive purchase
A Photon Mono 4K from a few years ago is pretty damn cheap now, even new. Even the cheapest resin printers look to give good print results, it's just the convenience and extra features that they're missing. For occasional use it would be fine.

>>2933793
How about resin itself? How expensive is it compared to regular filament? I'm pretty new to this stuff so I just searched for resin and filament and compared a few prices.

>>2933794
Yeah the resin is more expensive per kg, but because you’re printing smaller things it should last longer. A single bottle should be enough for all the minis for a good few DnD games. I’m guessing here though, never resin-printed before.

with resin printers youre stuck with resin. its okay if you want to make figurines. But thats sll youll be making.

>>2933795
Is there some sort of special thing I should be looking for? Do resin or filament have different types for different purposes? Also do I need a curing machine of some sorts?

>>2933797
Resin is higher resolution so you can get details you cannot get with filament. Theres some pretty good engineering resins too for things like crappy turbo pumps. Lots of different uses for different resins and different filaments. I think resin is also good for things like casting.

If I really had to dumb it down, resin is for specific engineering or miniatures/trinkets. Filament is more everyday and general engineering. I have like 6 filament machines and one resin printer that collects dust.

The curing can be done with some uv LEDs. You can buy a curing setup or diy one for pretty cheap. Alternatively im pretty sure you can just stick it out in the sun for a day or two.

>>2933787
Honestly, unless you inspect the models up-close the entire session, a Bambu A1 Mini can give you minis and terrain that is perfectly usable for casual DnD
It can be a bit finnicky to print because not all models that can be resin printed can be FDM printed, but not having to deal with resin is a worthwhile tradeoff imo
FatDragonGames has a profile made just for printing minis on the A1 Mini so a lot of the job figuring that out is already done for you

>>2933801
if you change the nozzle you can get pretty high resolution with the fdm. but i changed the nozzle on my creality k 1 fail and ive been repairing it for a few days now.

>measure one of the wheels, make a thin walled version to test fit.
>completely forget that thin walled test fitting doesn't work so well with flexibles.
>Print fully solid parts that in credibly satisfying to handle and throw around.
>they don't fit the outer race for the bearings.
I might be retarded, but it's fixable with some sandpaper.

>>2933825
fug.

>>2933777
Most spools aren't designed to go that hot. Plastic spools might soften up and collapse and the glue in cardboard spools might melt.

>>2933785
I'm not that anon, just pointing out that "a few beers" is absurd, you're making it sound like the guy is scraping peanuts out of the 3d model when the reality is more like a full month of living expenses.

>>2933797
>>2933801
i bought a resin printer a while back
they are actually really cheap because they are pretty simple compared to FDM.
you can also get water washable resin that is non-toxic but it still needs to be cured in my experience.
the main problem for me is its still a major pain in the ass to use compared to FDM even with the water washable resin
if its your first printer just go with FDM and maybe try a small nozzle

>>2933783
I've grown past PLA, i usually use PETG and delving into ASA doesn't look bad.

>>2933850
I've had a resin printer for years, mastered it on the first weekend.
Had an FDM for months now and I'm still having troubles with it.
Cheap resin is a far better introductory tool.
But you're also comaring a chainsaw to a spatula, they are entirely different tools for entirely different jobs, do you want functional simple items to work with or do you want decorative fine detail items to paint?

>>2933840
its not absurd, its $15. I dont think you understand how markets work. money is exchanged for goods and services at a price people are willing to pay. I never said he was at the poverty line or anything like that
>the people who have bought it decided the designer can have a few beers ON THEM (EACH) in exchange for a functional model
better? fucking autist

>>2933825
That 72D sands? It is awfully abrasion resistant.

>>2933860
That polymaker HT-PLA is objectively better than PETG in basically every way, but if you’re looking towards ASA and ABS it’s absolutely worth getting an enclosed printer.

>>2933899
>complaining about autism on 4chan.
Figure it out boomer.

>>2933860
ASA is considerably harder to print and absolutely requires an enclosure for anything serious. The P1S can handle it but it helps to wrap a towel around it to insulate it better and use the bed to preheat the chamber to around 40 before starting the print. you will also want some sort of exhaust to extract the fumes that off gas
>>2933915
being a cheapskate because you think you shouldnt have to pay for something because its digital is far more boomer-y. I can still call some nit picking faggot on 4chan an autist, thanks

as as i get my k1 fixed im going to start printing voron pieces right away.

>>2933921
>you shouldnt have to pay for something because its digital is far more boomer
That's about a genx/millenial as it gets, that's a core element of being the first computer using generations, we are more familiar with the reality that digital goods are ephemeral and infinitely copyable without any loss to the originator.
Price is a concept dictated by the circumstances of supply and demand, and when supply is infinite, no amount of demand can make any price reasonable.

>>2933925
>when supply is infinite, no amount of demand can make any price reasonable.
enjoy living in la la land lmao

>>2933926
I live in a world where market manipulation is illegal, and artifically manipulating supply to increase demand is included in that.
So it is a crime to limit the copying of an infinitely copyable digital non-physical item for the purpose of generating profit.

>>2933927
you dont live in that world bucko

>>2933783
>Why not make the curvy part slot in? Looks like you'll just be gluing it to a flush surface.

Making a slot would break up my nice long straight lines that let the machine spend the most time at max speed, which was the whole reason I made the curvy part separate. As is I think I'm gonna save about 2 days worth of print time on the z18 by offloading the curvy parts to the K1 SE, it will just have to do a total of 4 9 inch sections instead of 2 18 inch sections.

Also I'm not planning on gluing them at all. They just slide in. An added bonus is I can remove them to clean or clear clogs if needed.

>>2933739
At first I didn't understand what you meant, but you might just be onto something. Not gonna try it short term but I'll give it some thought.

>>2933927
indeed brother. the gold fringed flag means that we are not bound by the maritime law of the shadow government. it is always preferable to use whatever garbage you can scrape together for free than simply paying for something or making it yourself. gay men dont ask

>>2933940
Yes I do, I get all my digital items for free, faggot.
I also distribute any digital work of my own for free, faggot.

>>2933954
but some people wont

>>2933957
And? Nothing is ever unanimous.