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7/23/2025, 5:34:10 AM
>>18492852
Good suit ensemble design is confusing and full of either contradictions or conditional statements that are impossible to nail down completely- so here I'm going to make things even worse.
Principle job of the suit should be to draw your eye up to your face, so you want things proportional and not sticking out or the eye gets drawn to that feature, meanwhile, you want your suit to downplay negatives and accentuate positive characteristics of your body. See the attached pictures which are from "Dressing the man", considered one of the gold standard pieces for dressing well in a suit.
As for lapels, from Allan Flusser's "Clothes and the man", He basically states in that the lapel width should be proportionate to the jacket, slightly less than halfway between the collar and the shoulder line, generally 3 1/2 inches. In "Dressing the man" published 17 years later he states that it should be 2/5's to 3/5th the distance between collar and shoulder, but states it results in a notch lapel of about 3 3/8 to 4 1/4 inches. I would probably go with the "slightly less than half".
He says to use the jacket shoulder to frame the face, but didnt elaborate much about the shoulders beyond being proportionate and preferring natural-shoulder cuts.
Good suit ensemble design is confusing and full of either contradictions or conditional statements that are impossible to nail down completely- so here I'm going to make things even worse.
Principle job of the suit should be to draw your eye up to your face, so you want things proportional and not sticking out or the eye gets drawn to that feature, meanwhile, you want your suit to downplay negatives and accentuate positive characteristics of your body. See the attached pictures which are from "Dressing the man", considered one of the gold standard pieces for dressing well in a suit.
As for lapels, from Allan Flusser's "Clothes and the man", He basically states in that the lapel width should be proportionate to the jacket, slightly less than halfway between the collar and the shoulder line, generally 3 1/2 inches. In "Dressing the man" published 17 years later he states that it should be 2/5's to 3/5th the distance between collar and shoulder, but states it results in a notch lapel of about 3 3/8 to 4 1/4 inches. I would probably go with the "slightly less than half".
He says to use the jacket shoulder to frame the face, but didnt elaborate much about the shoulders beyond being proportionate and preferring natural-shoulder cuts.
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