It's made and played by a bunch of degenerate trannies, but the Path of the Incarnate modpack for OpenMW is absolutely unbelievable. It messes with gameplay but it's still in line with a broadly "vanilla+++" purview. Just look it up and look at the modlist. Purists will shit on it, I think. But that's to be expected. I've been getting blasted drunk and no-lifing that shit after work for weeks now and it just seems like the ideal form of Morrowind. Or at least its so refreshing after beating vanilla like 3 times and then not touching the game for like a decade.