>>64280084
No problem. Just make sure you read the /K/ projects thread post (>>64279597) as that's what I just figured out today. So far it's been working way better than anything else I've ever seen and faster, not to mention without damaging the stamps or using anything acidic/basic that will damage the wood. And be sure to disassemble in the correct order. If someone fucked up in the past, you'll have to take the metal piece that reinforces the forestock (pic) out and use a vise to very very carefully close the slot and un-bend it, then probably repair the stock with acraglas. Might want to use a small amount to keep that reinforcement in there. Can't say for sure; the SMLE is finnicky in strange ways when it comes to accuracy and I don't want to recommend something that does funny things to your accuracy. I keep wanting to find that FW video where Ian shows the little bits of paper or canvas used to increase pressure at certain points of the stock in a target/sniper SMLE and can't find the video for the life of me. As for the metal, you can boil it in a large pasta pot to convert the rust back to bluing and remove a lot of the grease and dirt. #0000 steel wool and soft handheld brass brushes (large brush in HF SKU 69526) work well for removing the last of it (beware brass coated steel brushes as they scratch). I've also started to use somewhere around #00, #0, or #1 for removal of rust as it leaves way fewer strands around to clean up or rust than #0000. Homax or Hypertough (Walmart) brand, the cheap stuff. Then oil IMMEDIATELY as you just stripped off all the oil. You can also let parts get a light rust and re-boil to keep darkening it if you want to go all the way back to black rather than gray. DO NOT USE A BENCH GRINDER'S WIRE WHEEL, IT WILL EAT THE METAL (trust me, I use one to round edges on parts I make!).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQh7ve_4VBw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4QOcRTZv2Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nWVI_3Lo0Q