What have my fellow /vrt/ bros been playing?

I have fatigue. Goodnight /v/!

I haven't played a Pokémon game since I was like 11 years old (my last one was Pokémon Gold on my Game Boy Pocket). I have a feeling maybe I'd enjoy one of these romhacks, but I don't want to playtest a hundred fucking different ones until I find the one I like or I'll end up playing none of them. What's a good one that's very well made and enjoyable? Challenging but not insanely autistic