Thread 95753153

This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>95632032

Do you guys generally just opt to print official models for a given wargame or prefer to give alternative models a fair shake?

Just began my first 3D print. Apparently the test model on the orginal USB will take just under 4 hours. Nervous but hopeful.

>>95755903
I go with whatever looks better, tons of proxies are way better than the official ones. And a lot of the ones I like don’t even have any scans

>>95755903
I have mainly alternative models with a few printed official characters for TOW and recreations of official looks but improved(imo) for 40-30k with alternative bits like pauldrons, helmets and some other stuff.
I really enjoy the idea of having an army that looks a lot like the original while being slightly better for a mere fraction of the price while not giving a single cent to GW.

Anyone know any good models for Intellect Devourers? I like this one a lot, but it's only one pose. Strong preference for ones with mouths.

I'm concerned about TGram accessing my data & contact list & personal information
I found an old phone I'm not using anymore; I've been thinking about wiping it and going to 7-11 and purchasing a $10 SIM card and the smallest amount of pay-as-you-go mins as possible just so I can use that phone number for TGram registration.
Is that feasible, or pointless? Am I being retarded/paranoid?
It it matters, for reference I'm in Canada

>>95756236
Well how did it go?

>>95759133
>Am I being paranoid?
A little but it's understandable. I just used my personal cell and haven't had any issues. I think most others here would probably say the same.

>>95759491
>Well how did it go?
Print seems to have come out alright, but there was a great deal of drama by my landlord so I'm fucked out of printing for the time being.

>>95759501
Noise or smell?

>>95759133
If you are paranoid, once you have the account you could download the desktop telegram and use it instead and remove the app from your phone. If you're ultra paranoid you could install telegram desktop on a virtual machine.

>>95759841
>download the desktop telegram and use it instead and remove the app from your phone
That was a plan that I had too; I wasn't sure if TG routinely checked the ph# for validity or if it was only at activation.
Thanks for the feedback anons

Telegram sends you a 6 digit code and tells you not to show it to anyone. Store it somewhere safe because thats what is asks for if you need to log in again.

>>95757547
Some alternative models seem to look great for 30k in particular, as so many gear combinations can't feasibly be obtained with official kits and may even lack models outright, and FW's availability is generally bad on top of that. I imagine that a lot of the look-alike alternatives I've seen more than suffice without having to break Heresy's aesthetic, especially if official GW sculpts these days are skubby, but for even just wargear it seems like printing becomes invaluable.

That said, for sculpts that are deliberately more legally-friendly knockoffs or obvious proxies, I'm not sure what to think. Definitely a bit saturated. Some stuff like nfeyma's vehicles are more inspiring (probably helps the guy actually paints his shit too), many others just seem like you'd pick it if you just hate a given faction's style.

>>95759834
Not sure. He just was going to throw it out while it was running until his wife managed to stop him. Still, blocked and banned from printing forever.

I'm looking for some imperial guard heads that look ROUGHLY like classiclego space helmets, pic related.
Does anyone know some good creators that could have something like this?

>>95762770
Maybe some star wars stormtrooper scouts helmets will do?

Got some resin minis (tzaangors and rubric marines) that will be mainly blue with gold trim. If I'm going to spray the marine models gold and then fill in the blue, should I use a black or grey primer?

I'm trying to print some custom shoulder pads for space marines. I've tried doing my own supports and copying RedWarden's but everytime more than half of the pads fail printing. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Of the 40 pads only 27 stuck to the plate and 10 of them printed warped.

>>95764894
Maybe try printing them at a 45 degree angle? Shoulder pads print best for me that way and when i put some supports on the inside curve.

>>95764924
I tried that too but those somehow failed even more. Of a plate of 45 I only got 3 succesfull pads.

>>95764944
Welp. Time to start eliminating the obvious until one thing is left. Could be lift speed, not sticking to plate, old fep, bad screen, old resin, basd 3d models. Time to go through it all one by one.

>>95764956
Oof. I'll try what I said in the other thread tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll have to do that. Don't think it's the resin or the printer itself because I've printed other things in the last month that printed perfectly and the resin is like 3 months old. But still, doesn't hurt to rule things out.

>>95764973
Good luck, anon. I've been there before.

>>95762762
Are you just renting a room or do you have your own contained space? Do you have your own bathroom with a exaust fan? Print in there or invest in a tent and extract out a window

>>95762762
What the fuck?

>>95765411
Renting a room, no personal bathroom. No room in my room for the setup, but I was given permission to run it in the laundry room where it was in a grow tent with an extractor and hosing to feed outside a window.
>>95765420
Yeah, shit sucks.

>>95765453
Are you still living at home with parent(s) and don't want to admit it? Cause that's what this scenario sounds like.

>>95765472
Renting from family, because it is either that or being homeless.

>>95765487
Unit or house? Could you set up outside?

>>95765505
Room in a house. There are barns, but when his wife brought it up he said he "wanted it gone".

>>95766083
Is he some sort of extreme christian who thinks you are printing the tools of satan? Has he given a reason as to why you cant set it up away from the house? Maybe give a few months for him to calm the fuck down. If all else fails you could just pour some resin in his coffee...

>>95766361
Anon mentioned laundry room, grow tent, window hosing so I'm guessing cancer paranoia.

>>95766424
But if he prints in the barn that should not be an issue.

>>95766500
Depends if there are animals.

>>95765487
How about renting from someone else?

>>95766571
I only live where I do because the rent is cheap enough to let me survive. Otherwise rent would be 95% of my pay, not even joking.

Thanks to anon who recommended Dakkadakka for GSC. Neophytes came out great.
Wish I'd known back when it came out so I could have got it in one reasonable bundle. Just picking up a set at a time for now.

Two questions, one, how often are you guys printing? Two, If I go on vacation and just leave my setup in place will it be fine? Should I just drain and clean everything if its going to be longer then 2 weeks?

Would you guys recommend me some good multipart traitor guard models other than Orfey?

>>95767019
What are you looking for? Just Infantry? Or a full range?

Full ranges:
>Wargame Exclusive (a bit too cartoony for my taste, but it includes a full range with tanks, sentinel, artillery, etc and everything matches)
>Quartermaster 3d (a bit on the smaller side, think classic 25mm LotR scale, but you can upscale ofc)
>RedMaker (Edgy krieg with spikes)
>Den of Imagination (chunky infantry, but besides that they are neat in my opinion)
>Ghamak
>That Evil One

Single squads or random stuff but not all GW Guard models are represented:
>Red Pilgrim
>Station Forge
>Solwyte
>Davik
>Anvil Digital Forge
>Dakka Dakka
>Reptilian Overlords
>Adeptus Miniatures
>Taleskeeper

All listed are more or less multipart, some more than others of course. I have printed from almost all those mentioned and swapped bits around, so let me know if you have more specific questions.

And last but not least:
Maker Cults Universal Guard are very good as a generic base for conversions, or just to get various sets with arms/weapons, pouches and other stuff that is useful for converting any kind of infantry.

>>95764894
>>95764944
I heard somewhere that you do not want your ramifications to join up at the end of a print (above), but rather that it all grows outward as not to have to meet another part while growing.

So, in other words, grow resin like a tree. Place them upside down. I would try printing the icon (the sun thingie) facing down in your case.

Oh and, if you're getting this many failures, maybe you gotta tweak the settings in regards to build speeds, times and stuff.

>>95753153 (OP)
>Hoarded 150GB of STL imperial guard files that I'm never ever going to print again
What do I do with this

>>95767301
Delete it?

>>95767301
Do >>95767339 and fill the space with dolphin porn

Maybe its interesting to someone, but Blizzard has released all the characters from Warcraft Rumble as STL for free:
https://warcraftrumble.blizzard.com/en-us/collection

>>95767516
Why do they all look like it's a cartoon for under fives? What the fuck have they done to my beloved wciii designs?!
Regardless thanks for the share friend.
>>95766575
>rent would be 95% of my pay, not even joking.
Many such cases. Speculative investing has been a disaster. I've never had trouble finding full time work but still have literally never lived anywhere that wasn't with family or with friends.

>>95753153 (OP)
Someone told me that 45° is the sweetspot, but will it fuck my print up, when i choose something different, for bigger prints, like 40°?

>>95770025
Or when i print something like this? 45° means a lot of support in thight spots, which makes the removel really annoying

>>95770216
Anon it looks like 2 would fit on your plate. Just print 2. Each at different angles. Resin printing is learning as you go with trial and error.
All that said I would personally tilt it.

>have three failed prints in a row from overexposure
>think its the old resin, get a new bottle of some better grade stuff
>wing the first attempted print settings, comes out pretty much fine if a little overexposed
>next print roll back the exposure
>print fails early on, parts aren't sticking, seems like underexposure
>put settings back to what they were before
>prints fail in the same way

i'm cranking the exposure up and halving the speed of the plate, if it fails again think i'm just gonna give up on printing

also is screens failing/becoming inconsistent with exposure a thing over time?

>>95770247
I understand what you mean, but tilting this to 45° looks scarry

What's the best way to get rid of all this stringing? It's PETG filament and I'm not sure if I should have used that.

>>95771492
Temperature issue. There's a external FDM troubleshooter hidden in the OP that is quite good.

>>95771492
>>95771515
Found it: https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/stringing-or-oozing/

>>95771549
Thank you for linking this! I'll check it out!

>>95771492
That would be awesome as a nest for a giant eagle or roc. Best of luck with fixing it.
>>95770261
On the topic of troubleshooting how many of you have used community 3d printers, public libraries, school, hobby spaces. I feel like that'd be a good place to learn with someone who understand the machine before considering getting my own.

Recently picked up some Etheum Guild Brutes (well, the whole lot, but the Brutes are the focus here) for use in my Necromunda gang, and I've noticed that despite being scaled the same as the rest of the Etheum Guild, they've come out looking bulked up. Is this something anyone else has seen, or am I going insane and need to reprint them?

>>95772254
Oh, clarification: these are the PrintMinis models available on MyMiniFactory

>>95772254
>>95772305
Take a photo and show us what you mean

>>95772355
Best quality I could get - included are a regular Etheum Mage and one of the GW-made minis for Blackstone Fortress, currently not fully painted, for comparison.

>>95770216
It looks like it has a flat bottom. Just sit it directly on the plate and auto support with no height.

>>95772565
Brutes are meant to be larger, but I see what you mean. You could always scale them down a bit before you print.
>not fully painted, for comparison.
That's OK. Nude prints are preferred here anyway.

>>95771492
Better settings like others said to not get those strings, fire to get it away now. Just watch out to not heat it too much so the dragon deforms.

>>95772805
This, but it looks like it would not need any supports if printed upright. If you do supports, move the bases so they don't intersect with the model itself.

>>95770261

update

cranked the exposure up, slowed the plate down by half, the print failed.

what did get printed of the models came out fairly overexposed, but the supports were soft as fuck and the minis basically just fell out of the supports

how the fuck does more exposure make the supports softer but the minis more exposed

think I'm about ready to give up

>>95753153 (OP)
nice to see my prints in the OP.
pic related is two of them right now. Still thinking about a camo pattern for the 3rd one.

>>95753153 (OP)
What is the best way to deal with botched combined STLs?
I have an STL that treats the breaklines of the shoulders as an outside layer, and thus the model becomes very fragile around these faultlines.
It does so because the components (arms and torso) were never combined properly. The STL has a lot of vertices "inside" the model.
Filling holes does not work, and I already have an overlap union enabled. Is there an easy way to fix this with blender or a free CAD software?

>>95773997
JUST STOP. You've done so much "fixing" that you can't see where you started. Reset all your settings. Go look up the recommended manufacture setting for your resin. Try that. IF it still fails. Start eliminating things until you find the problem. You are just running in circles right now.

>>95773997
How about showing your prints?

>>95774151

here's the guy that came out best

somehow the detail around the bottom looks great but it gradually gets more overexposed as the print goes on (the other guys basically have no detail in their heads)

>>95774136

I think that's the plan. I've been printing at 0.035 as that's what I ve managed to successfully tune in and I'd rather not go 0.05 but I'm pissing and shitting at this point

What's confusing me is how my first print with 1.5s of exposure came out overexposed with rock hard supports that took out chunks of detail, but I go all the way up to 2 (close to what's recommended for 0.05) but get flimsy supports with an overexposed top

>>95770025
It's not a universal sweet spot. Yu have to do some math to figure out the optimal angle for your specific printer.

>>95774234
Post pic of settings and tell us what resin you are using.

>>95774403

this is anycibic abs like pro 2, which recommends 2.5s at 0.05 (was having the same issues with an old bottle of regular anycubic resin)

from memory layer is 0.035, exposure was 2 seconds, 6 bottom layers with 10s of exposure (bottom layers all appear intact), regular plate movements were 2mm/s,

>>95774500
>6 bottom layers with 10s of exposure
where the fuck did you get these settings from. your rafts are made of jelly. you should have 30-40 seconds for your bottom layers. I run 15 bottom layers with 10 trans layers at 40 seconds exposure each. if your bottom layers are rubbish then your prints will fall out and your supports won't hold. You can also try thickening your raft or adding anchors at the bottom of your supports.

Also haven't used Anycubic resin in years but if its anything like it was 4 years ago it's rubbish.

>>95774532
15 bottom layers seem a bit much, but depends on the size of your prints i guess.
I print perfectly fine with 8 bottom layers (35 sec exposure) and 8 transition layers
Regular exposure time for me is 3s

>>95774582
>15 bottom layers seem a bit much
Probably but after making that change I haven't had a print failure in months. It's really brute-forcing it and it only takes an extra couple of minutes to ensure a sturdy base to print off. It's based off the settings that Atlas3DSS recommends to ensure successful prints with their supports/resins and since they support a decent amount of larger studios it seems to be the way to go.

>>95774532

I did wonder if that was causing potential failures as up til now I'd been using the default bottom layers settings, which are 40s of exposure and are so hard it's impossible to get them off the plate without the model launching off across the room. I dialed those settings in as every guide I saw recommended like 8x the regular exposure time as a maximum.

I didn't think the bottom layers would affect the supports but it does seem like they were overexposed before I went with the lower settings, which basically made them jelly

>>95774683
>and are so hard it's impossible to get them off the plate without the model launching off across the room.

Maybe my process is different from yours, but i always heat the entire plate in hot water, then peel off the model from the now warm/soft supports and only as a last step use a metal scraper to (easily, because its warm) remove the raft from the plate

>>95774108
For future anons with the same problem. I managed to solve it by loading the STL into blender. There I figured out that the mesh did consist of several "loose" parts (by an infinitesimally small margin).

To fix: load STL in blender, go to sculpt. There go to the remesh option under tools. Then remesh to a voxel size that is appropriate for your scale (mine was 0.1). Afterwards I decimated the vertices using the appropriate modifier. End result is a preview that no longer has outer layers on the inside.

Any recommendations for fantasy beastmen for Old World?
I do not really follow any Whfb creators, but the announced preorder gave me the itch to get an army of Goatmen.

>>95773698
If he prints this flat on the board isn't’t it going to be a pain to pull it off?

Anyone south of england know someone who will print models for cheap, decent quality?

>>95775978
It can be hard, but that is mostly if you can't get a grip to pull it off or it has a big area that holding it.
That's why bases are so tough. You can't grip them when they are wet, and most often you need to use a tool to get them off, which scuffs up the corners at least.

Those look like they have rather small contact and are vertical so you can probably twist them off the plate kinda easy.

I just saw some of the dark epoch age of apostates models specifically for raven guard and they were so spot on, seems like they've been scrubbed from most public places but anybody know if they ever did any world eaters heresy stuff?
Not asking to get spoonfed links just if they ever did them in the first place

>>95776347
This thread is not the right place to look for IRL contacts.

Anyone got experience with the Elegoo XS Cure Machine? Mine just stopped spinning. the lights are on, but nothing's moving

>>95780183
Is the motor still making a noise? Is it possible to turn the impellor in the tank by hand (or by tool)?

>>95780183
>>95780339
Ignore the tank question, misread your post. Just had to resolve an issue on my wash station the other day

>>95764894
I've bought RedWarden's stuff; have you considered just using his supports instead of replacing them? I would at least throw a couple medium sized anchors in there at least (I'm seeing all smalls).

I'm thinking of designing a paint rack that hangs off of my pc case. Anyone know of anything I should keep in mind while working on it?

Any Linux users here?
What software do you trust the most to check the health of one's USB or portable HDD/SSD?
And if it measures in percentages, at what percentage of health is it time to replace it?

>>95785336
I would look out that the rack doesn't go anywhere where it can get hot when you are gaming, don't want to slow cook your paints.

Also make it so if a bottle springs a leak it only drips where it does not matter.

I just started printing FDM.
I'm using an Ender 3 and printing with PLA at 0.2

There's all these weird "gaps" in my print. I used PETG previously and the lines were much better connected.

Is this a bed leveling issue or something else?

>>95788737
More likely restricted extrusion; could be any number of reasons (bad settings, partial clog, bowden tube might not be in all the way, snagged filament all immediately come to mind). Try the general on /diy/, they have more FDM experience than the /tg/ userbase.
>>>/diy/2918429

You guys might be more useful than /hwg/ at this: Anyone know any good STLs for scenery appropriate for 28mm WW2 games? I'm getting back into Bolt Action and want to provide some terrain for the group.

>>95792013
Have you tried entering Bolt Action into MMF?

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-bolt-action-bridges-fountains-towers-windmill-scale-1-56-412227

Check this creators catalogue, he has plenty of WW2 stuff.

Here is another one with tons of wargaming terrain that could be used for WW2:

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-modern-semi-buried-log-bunker-9-modern-ww2-ww1-world-war-diaroma-wargaming-rpg-mini-hobby-325467

obviously you can look for more specific things like trenches, bunkers, or eastern european houses too.

>>95795774
God, that log bunker would've been perfect back when I played Finns, but I sold them and I'm doing British commonwealth forces in the desert now. Thanks for the links though

>diverging realms did this coteaz sculpt months ago
>Will not be available as I make my best if meagre effort to treasure life, and as such do not want to end up in a mysterious 'gas explosion'
i'm mad.

>>95798730
Just look around that site, you will find tons of desert houses and other terrain easily.

Sup fellas, EOFY sales are here and I'm thinking of getting my first FDM printer. I already have a resin one for minis, I want an FDM one for shit like terrain and movement trays cos that's way more cost effective than using resin, am looking for the best intersection between large build space and price since I want to print big ass buildings for shit like Mordheim. Any reccs?

>>95802290
I should add I've been eyeing the Bambu A1 and the Ender 3 SE, the latter being significantly cheaper

>>95800513
I understood the first and last part of this.

>>95803231
the guy who made it will never sell or distribute it even though its a finished model because he's afraid of gee double u

What's the reason a resin printer (photon mono 2) would print the entire plate? Even on test prints the entire build plate will have a screen size cured layer of resin and it just keeps building that up though adhesion to the plate is poor.

>>95800513
Coward

>>95788737
unfortunately, anon, you are in for a WORLD of hurt using the Ender 3 if you're getting into FDM. I know it's capable and experienced people can make it work but it just plagues you with constant issues. I got mine cheap and honestly, you get what you pay for, the Ender 3 was just a bad experience.

It's worth spending more money to get a Prusa or Bambu Lab machine. I got a MK4 and even though it's a couple years out of date, it's just been an amazingly reliable machine, I can count the failed prints on like one hand. I'm going to upgrade it soon, I think and get an mmu module for it for multiple color printing. Been improving these openforged tiles and having a way to print out ready-to-go terrain without paints would be AMAZING if I can pull it off.

>>95802341
A1 for sure. Stay away from Ender

>>95802341
Bambu A1 I say that as a fellow ausfag. The Ender 3 is fiddly as fuck and you will want to kill yourself during set up and trying to get it working. Bambu just works out the box and is overall a much better printer. If you can look at getting the P1S since the enclosure helps with prints a shitload during winter and it's really not that much more to get all things considered.

>>95805790
Your sliced print is glitched. Redo it.

>>95806140
>>95806435
Sick, might get the A1. Only downside is it's $500 compared to the cheaper ones, but I guess you get what you pay for hey

>>95807051
yes. i bought an Ender 3 and wish I had just spent the extra for my Bambu from the getgo because it's day and night with both ease of use and print quality.

Has anyone else had their resin prints turn semi-translucent? I'm using the same resin, same settings, same everything, but the prints are coming out a little shiny and translucent and seem to hold less detail and be bendier

>>95808968
Was the resin old in the vat, and/or not shaken properly maybe?

>>95805790
If a printer prints a whole plate, its probably that the screen is broken or disconnected. It is clear by default, so also when its broken.

It could also be a broken file, a bad usb, or the chitu board anti alias bug, but I don't know if the mono uses one that can get that.

>>95765472
Honestly, that sounds pretty typical to a lot of the housing situations around where I live.

it would be really cool if someone made dismounted lower halves for cavalry miniatures. Especially stuff like napoleonic cavalry where there aren't many options for dismounted troopers.
Sucks when you find a cool mounted mini and there's no dismounted variant

>>95809131
Yeah old in the vat is probably the issue. Have to pour it out and shake.

fark i wish there were an easier way to purge the tank of resin without having to remove the FEP. theres always some shit left over

also, how is resin getting under my fep onto the screen? im not spilling it and theres no hole in the FEP. does it sweat thru over time or some shit?

>>95816011
>
also, how is resin getting under my fep onto the screen?
Maybe the FEP has micro tears at the edges, and only under the pressure from the release do they get big enough to let resin through. Or what almost happened to me a few times was I moved the vat while the plate was up and not completely dry of resin, so something dripped a bit while I was not looking.

why are the greens ones so much cheaper? just how much different are they compared to ultras considering how everything these days is about QOL?

How retard proof are 3d printers nowadays?
And what’s a good compact wash and curing station?
Also is a computer necessary for 3d printers to be plugged up next to them?
I might buy a cheap laptop and jack a Linux distro into the system and use that if true.
Generally 3d printer software works on linux machines just fine right?

>>95818517
I'm not sure they'll ever be totally retard-proof. Even now and then I see someone do something I never thought was possible.
You don't need a computer hooked up to the printer. Just copy your file onto a USB stick and plug that into the printer.

>>95818541
>Even now and then I see someone do something I never thought was possible.
I guess bricking my system with a thumb drive I use for installing Linux operating systems in might be a new one.
I’ll look into getting a new stick unless I can revert one of my older sticks back to a regular usb.
Thanks anon.

What 16k printer and resin and washing and curing station do you recommend a beginner get?

>>95818564
you dont need a 16k printer

>>95818759
I meant to say 16k resolution printer not 16k priced printer. My bad.

>>95818780
The thing you need to understand is that the resolution does not directly translate to the quality of the miniature. You also need to take account the physical size of the screen, pixels per inch is what actually matters. 4K printer will print more detailed miniatures than a 16K printer if the discrepancy in screen size is large enough.

>>95818780
It would be complete overkill, especially if you're beginner.
Get a Mars 4 Ultra or Mars 5 Ultra and see how it goes.

>>95817810
The tilting vat is nice. Reduces print times a bit and lowers the stress on the FEP (theoretically increasing FEP life time and reducing print failures, though I have no numbers to back that up in practice)
Ultra versions also come with WiFi, if you care about that, and have a removable panel to attach a circulation hose to.
(Any of this could have been googled you lazy fag)

>>95818814
>>95818836
Thanks guys!

The Mars 5 Ultra has gone up over 40% in my country
Feels bad man, I should have known

>>95817810
The green one is a complete departure from the past
The Mars 5 Ultra is 18 × 18 μm whilst the Mars 5 is 35 x 35 μm which is hilarious since the Mars 4 was 18 × 18 μm
I don't know why but they decided that their new baseline model would print less sharp prints for no discernible reason

>>95816091
What's funny is there's been resin under the FEP for ages but my prints are still aces. Go figure. Anyway I will still replace the FEP and clean the screen, I'm guessing there probably are micro tears from doing tank cleans after I print like 40 things and 1 sticks to the FEP

>>95818836
>Mars 5 Ultra
Is this the most beginner friendly 3D printer with the highest resolution?
Or is there another I should look into?

Saw some gunpla tutorials about using glass nano files for sanding down plastic to get a glossy finish.
Are these files overkill for 3D printing resin or perfect?

>>95821417
Part of the reason people use glass files on Gunpla is that the plastic is already molded in (approximately) the right color, so there's no need to paint it afterward depending on the grade. Gunpla also tends to have lots of broad flat surfaces where these glass files work well. Remember that they're jointed plastic kits that can be posed, so millimetric tolerances are super important.

With 3D printed resin, not only are you going to paint the entire thing anyway, but a lot of the surfaces are going to be curved or have tiny nooks and crannies that a glass file can't reach. For these reasons, regular sandpaper, sanding sponges and sanding sticks will probably work good enough.

>>95821852
literally me

Aside from Davale Games, are there any mini makers out there with models that capture the aesthetic of the LOTR movies? Looking to print some elves, Rohan, and Isengard.

>>95822976
medbury, quartermaster3d

I’m trying to find STLs from this dude who called himself killmeforprizes. He had a ton of epic scale 30k stuff, but looks like he got the old in and out from GW and all his files are gone from Cults, MMF, etc.

Any bros know of an archive floating around out there?

>>95825082
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/KMFP_Designs?show=store

210 listings in his MMF store, what exactly is missing?

Besides that, his patreon is still active. You can just message the guy.

I might also have access to an archive with a lot of his stuff, but what exactly are you looking for? "30k" is a wide field.

>>95821852
I’ve gotta reorganize my files too thanks for reminding me even though I will just procrastinate.

>>95825321
When you click those links it takes you to cults and everything has been pulled. GW is forbidding him from sending files, apparently (read open messages to him on cults or whatever can’t remember).

>>95825321
Sorry meant to add, looking specifically for his 30k epic scale stuff. He had some amazing shit that was spot on to the 28mm stuff.

Playing legions imperialis and trying to get legion-specific models, and his stuff was perfect for it.

What 3D printer could get the same level of crispness/detail as the GW plastic legions imperialis minis without all the retarded slide mould limitations?

>>95779564
Anybody?

>>95822976
The Printing Goes Ever On or whatever that mob is called

>>95826311
Mars 4 Ultra and similar/better machines do that easily.

Any of you guys got a printable bit for CSM/Marines that resembles the Desolator cannon from RA2? I found a Plasma cannon that looks like it but it's gone from Cults (will reply with said bit) and can't find it anywhere else on the net.

>>95828964
Said plasma cannon. It doesn't look 1:1 but it's close enough in vibe for me.

>>95828969
>>95828964

I'm retarded for splitting this across 3 posts, so forgive me, but if anyone has a bit that looks MORE like it, or any otherwise-similar techy shoulder mounted cannons that'd be great too.

>>95826311
The Crispness of it depends partly on the resin but mostly on the chosen layer height and the pixel size of the printer.

It can be smoothed by anti alias, but as with video games, it softens everything a bit, but you can tune that to your liking.

Most people find that around 0.03mm the pixel artifacts on the models get so small that a human eye has problems seeing it up close and after a coat of primer even more so.

The mars 3 had a pixel size of 0.035, so around good enough and all the newer ones except the Jupiter have better resolution than that.

>>95828964
>give it a check
>noticed a bunch of other guys got hit with takedowns lately

FUCK

>>95825425
All of the MMF items can be placed to the basket there. There is no links to Cults from there.

>Anycubic sale
>can get a Mono M4 for $150

would this be a good upgrade over the Mono 1 or would it be worth spending more on a better/different brand printer

>>95829185
Man James has a serious hard-on for those bitz, huh?

just want to be sure before buying this subscription.
A friend ask me if I could get and print this set for him.
So was looking, the pack is sold for 40 dollars
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mirmidons-of-the-death-tide-complete-set-64-397307
But if I look at the subscriptions plans, the 20 dollar one,
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Artisan_Guild?show=tribe#/
should include the starter pack? the current month full pack? and I could get one full pack from the past? so it could be the 40 dollar pack?
Also, is that montly? so the next month could I get another set from the past as well? or that is just the first time?

Because that sound cheaper than just buying the 40 dollar one, i guess subscription just ramp up the value alot even if I cancel later.

>>95830763
AG are one of the most easily found monthly sets found on the interwebs

First time here since I am new to the 3d printing scene, so sorry if this has been asked before. I really like the look of the age of sigmar gitmob army with all the chariots and such. Is there an artist you like that has fairly similar looking models I could get an stl for? I am not against paying artists for their work, but my (admittedly) limited searching skills havent turned up anything I think is close to the GW sculpts in scale or look yet.

>>95828964
Can't help with the request, but love the idea. I've been printing/painting a NOD themed GSC army. "Tiberium trooper" for example

Noob here

Can Stls be printed mirrored? There's this one highland miniatures sunland captain on foot which I really like but he's lefthanded.

I want to print him righthanded

>>95832931
most programs have the mirror setting yeah and on the off chance they dont, then you can just put it into blender and mirror it

>>95753153 (OP)
For those of you with dragon hoards of files, how do you manage and organize everything so that you can find things as time goes on, and possibly search? My hoard is approaching the 1tb mark, and i realized i need help, especially with the amount of cheesecake and pinup ones buried in with the normal ones

Do you do a folder structure with a subjects? Do you run a local tagged database, or something else?

>>95832931
Yes, Chitubox and Lychee both have a mirror tool. It's a one-button click.

>>95833350
When setting up any organization system, an important question to have an answer for is, "If I need to look for [thing], where's the first place I would check?"
In file organization, my interpretation of that is proper folder structures and useful names. I find parent folders are useful, then if you have large quantities of certain things break them down into as many subfolders as needed. Don't be afraid to add tags to the names of files to help search for what you're looking for. I usually add square brackets at the end of the actual file name to help my searches.

>>95830731
And I was just scouting out for them only a month ago in advance of getting a printer. There goes the one guy who had a lot of rock solid alternate SM models, the one who made all those shoulder weapons other anon was looking for, and another who had a bunch of Cataphractii. Maybe they will all set up again somewhere else, but yeah I am not particularly happy. Perhaps the best bet is seeing if some guys on Telegram have backups, though I'd prefer to support the creators if I could.

Just saw the newsletter from makers cult that they shut down their "printed Wargames" Plattform for good and will move to MMF. They advise to download all your stuff from there.
While a bit sad to loose one independent plattform next to MMF, printed wargames was horrible in pretty much all aspects, so I fully understand that they lack sales on that site.

>>95833350
>STL
>Patreon
>>Creator name 1
>>Creator name 2
>Scans
>>Faction 1
>>Faction 2

>>95835370
Names?

>>95836087
Is jumbling up the names acceptable?

>>95833350
Since I originally started printing for Warhammer Fantasy proxies, I just have folders like "Dark Elves", "Vampire Counts", "Tyranids" etc. and sort the files to a place that feels the most appropriate and name them by what their closest equivalent in FB/40K would be. Works fine for now, but I only have about 200GB so far so I imagine it will start breaking once I hoard more and start having more and more STLs that don't neatly map to GW designs.

>>95806129
>ender 3
>it was bad before
>therefore it is still bad now

Sorry mate, but you got the old models.
The Ender3 SE has ABL and all the bells and whistles.

Theres nothing wrong with the modern E3SE,
though I'm sorry that you had one of the 'beta' models before they got to this point,
they're basically an A1Mini but without the doublepricetage and DRM sourcecode.

I fell down a rabbit hole after just trying to add an emblem to an armor plate, now I'm making my own proxy for an Iron Warrior Warsmith since I havent found one that I like. The hammer Im pretty proud of, its the first STL ive ever made. The design idea im going for is a glowing, coiled power thing on the back, running power through the cables to the hammer in one hand and a weapon in the other. I need to learn blender more, Ive been using Meshmixer and its fucking ass. I cant wait to finish all the pieces and finally print it to show it off here, I havent been this excited about something creative in years.

>>95836982
What I got printed so far for my Tac squads since I didnt actually post anything I printed here.

>>95807051
In the case of Bambu, what you pay for is a shady as shit company that could choose to lock down your machine to their cloud service at any time according to their TOS, who react to criticism by trying to expunge the negative behaviour from the internet and pretend it never happened, and who've even had themselves removed from the Internet Archive so nobody can call them out the next time they do it then starting a marketing blitz into communities that hadn't heard of their latest controversy(this last time it was miniature hobbyists and woodworkers).

Anyone who buys a Bamboo machine is a fucking mug.

>>95833350
Organised in folders; first by Setting, then by Faction(and if required, subfaction), then by Scale(where necessary). I rename each file to the thing it's supposed to be rather than whatever "I hope GW Legal don't notice me" madeup name they used, and append the name of the creator to the end.

>>95837080
Are those from Helforged? Looks crisp.

>>95837168
Great way to never find anything again, and especially not if some Anon here would be asking for a certain file.

>>95837195
yessir, I couldnt find any other mk3 bodies and legs that I liked so i begrudgingly parted with a few shekels. Had to modify the head-bowl-divet thing on the bodies tho, it was WAY too big. Held almost the whole helmet in it.

>>95839428
The grav-cannon top left or plasma cannon middle-right would be perfect anon. Any chance you can hook me up?

>>95840040
i'll upload it in gofile but this shit is like 1gb

>>95840040
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9tV3VsaFU=

>>95840389
Much appreciated anon.

Anyone happen to have 2023/leviathan terminator power fist? If it exists at all. I could only find normal marine power fists.

My shit keeps coming out warped, whatever is facing the build plate is fucked up
Anycubic Photon Mono 4
Anycubic standard grey resin

Slice 0.050mm 2.8s exposure
It's winter in Australia so I'm gonna try raising the wait time so the resin can flow better

>>95846535
There seem to be very little supports for such big pieces. How is the temperature in your printer room?

>>95847205
below 20 celcius when I was trying to print it

First test print done with my newly-arrived Saturn 4 Ultra. Very pleased with the results, though I think I overexposed them a little. Also the part I tried supporting myself failed completely, though that's likely from having very small supports (I was used to using Siraya Navy Grey, which is idiot-proof).
Used Resione Tough 74 at 0.03 layer height, with 2.1s exposure FWIW. I'm using that resin because I also print toy parts, and also it's THE toughest resin I've ever used (you can print functional ball joints with it) so it's perfectly suited to gaming minis.

Are they any good Cathay prints/rips out yet? Specifically with some nice sized shields? I want to use them as gut plates for my ogres

>>95850855
What's it like in terms of hardness?
I've been using Anycubic Standard Grey and I've found that it gets really hard and if I use clippers or a craft knife it just cracks or explodes
>>95851005
Yes. Yes. gofile.io/d/ZFBbs1

these prints are coming out good

>>95849752
There is your problem.

>>95849752
Considered an enclosure for the printer?

>>95853004
>>95853053
I'm looking at a hydroponic enclosure for next payday, for now I used a hairdryer to preheat the resin at a distance and my saturnine dreadnought parts are coming through nicely

>>95853313
>for now I used a hairdryer to preheat the resin at a distance

WTF. Dont you have a radiator?

>>95853402
I live in Australia. I don't have a portable one, and I don't have air-con in my garage.

>>95851294
>What's it like in terms of hardness?
It's pretty hard, but not brittle at all (hence why it works for balljoints and the like). It genuinely feels like plastic; it will flex but with much more force than most ABS-likes. I bought it for its intended purpose of printing toys/action figures, but outside of needing slightly beefier supports than, say, Siraya Navy Grey and needing quite long post-cure time it works just as well for minis.

digibashed a phobos techmarine for my phobos army

>>95854328
Speaking of which, do you do anything special for post-curing?

>>95855156
Beyond the longer than average post-cure time the only thing is it needs to be left overnight to fully solidify once it's been cured, though that's really only if you're using it for functional parts.

>shed doesn't have a window

So would an enclosure or grow tent with a vent pipe going out the door be fine? Not sure if I'd be able to have something more persistent setup, but shit's gotta go out somewhere.

I need some advice on setting up new resin. Some time ago i bough elagoo saturn ultra 16k with their abs like resin. It's fine, but resin is to brittle so i decided to try the phrozen rpg and i can't find info on how to settup it on my printer, Also on phrozen page they say that proper cure time is 30 minutes, but that sounds long for small minis. If anyone could help it would be much appraciated

>>95866370
Never trust the times from the resin manufacturers, they often time things by how old machines used to take.

Settings depend a bit on your climate and your machine (the lights age slowly and get weaker).
But if you want to crowdsource some rough settings to see if it works for you just use Lychee, they have for most resins and machines settings shared by users, and have them ranked by how good those worked for people.

>>95866489
Thank you, i'm using chitubox and it doesn't have this particular resin. How long should i cure it in your opinion? I'll prints some marines that are in parts first? Something like that seems legit?

in /hhg/ there's a titan proonter who claims that resin is shit and becomes brittle and useless on its own in 6-18 months after proont. save my hopes and dreams, proonterman...
>>95866403
>>95866427
>>95866434
>>95866859
>>95866939
>>95866705
can any oldfags confirm that UV resin goes shit on its own? if so, what's the solution to it? to use a proont as master mold for epoxy/metal casting?

>>95867649
I have a 3 year old unpainted standard grey resin print sitting on my desk right now that still has flex. I bent it to try and break it because of your post, and it broke at a 30 degree bend, 1.5mm thick part

>>95867689
I don't wanna nag, but do you remember which resin you used and, if possible, can you share pics?

>>95867714
I am almost 100% certain I used elegoo standard grey that I bought with my mars 2 in mid 2021. This is a picture showing the relative flex of the resin almost four years later, although it's a shorter section than the piece I bent to 30 degrees, understandable given I broke it to prove a point and am bending a shorter piece

>>95867883
That doesn't sound like overexposure to UV light though. A piece that thin could break even if it were brand new.

>>95867895
That's my point. 4 years of sitting around on my shelf, through multiple apartments with variable levels of natural light, and it still has enough bend to survive drops and rough handling

>>95867883
many thanks!
>>95867895
>overexposure to UV light
can this happen during the curing process itself? like, if I put freshly proonted, and then washed, minis into the UV chamber is there a chance for minis to become brittle on arrival?

>>95867649
I'm shocked that I can't find much info on this topic. I see a Creality link, some reddit posts, and a few people asking if resin prints are viable for long-term engineering parts, and this 3DISM article from last September that's absolutely wrong. Seriously, everyone that's owned a resin printer can disprove this screenshot that standard resin prints won't last a year under PROPER conditions.

I know that prints can crack, warp, and explode if you print them hollow, but don't add drain holes that allow IPA to clean out the liquid resin trapped inside but that's a separate issue. I saw this happen to someone's 40k titan not long ago. It started cracking at the shins and ankles because there was uncured resin trapped inside and trying to make its way out.

but shouldn't something like a painted pauldron or last for years?

but shouldn't stuff like painted pauldrons and helmets last for years?

>>95867993
What more info on that topic do you need? It's bullshit and everyone knows it. It's so stupid, I don't even bother to take a picture of some minis I printed with my photon all those years ago.

>>95867649
>>95867883
Can confirm what that anon says: my first printer was also a Mars 2 with the same elegoo Standart grey.....the resin is shit (in my opinion)and even that is good enough after years.... Cant imagine that newer stuff or ABS like resin will go bad in a couple of years. My first prints were DnD Miniatures with elegoo Standart and my friends and I use them even now.... 4 years later.

>>95868355
Most bare resin prints will last fucking forever. Once cured, primed, and painted they will outlast anyone who will remember they exist.

>>95867993
I think stories like this come from people who have experienced trapped resin inside their prints, either by hollowing them without adding some holes, or by bad sculpts with cavities inside the models without noticing it, and then their stuff breaks after some time and they think this happens naturally to all prints.

Finally got around to using my Saturn 4 Ultra 16K. Think my first prints turned out pretty well.

Crazy how fast you can churn out models; I'm definitely hooked.

>>95870889
Nice, they look very crisp. Dont make the mistake to print hundreds of minis before painting them.

idk if this is the right thread for this but do any of you know a 3D print service in the EU that doesn't bitch about stls of copyrighted models (i.e. scans of old GW sculpts)?

>>95827500
Nope, this guy only did raven guard stuff and nothing else

>>95871215
Ask around on etsy

Asking here because there's a higher chance of actual 3D print owners and miniature wargamers here.
What's the best durable resin for miniatures that will see usage in wargaming and TTRPGs involving miniatures?

Currently trying to figure out what printer I should use at the moment.

I'm trying to find an stl I remember from a few years back.
It was three models with large wizard hats obscuring their faces like pic related, only they had greatswords instead of staffs.
Been googling for hours with no luck, don't suppose anyone else has seen them?

>>95871215
desu, i would just write to one of the sellers on Aliexpress that sell 3d prints.

>>95874122
What do you consider best?
The most details?
The toughest Resin?
Most/Least bendy?

For me, I like Sunlu Abs Like. It works reliable for me, details are fine enough and models survive drops onto my tiled floors most of the time and its cheap, so if anything breaks its not that bad.

Printed this not-Rhino in Tough 74. Some annoying failure points on track link corners but they're so small I'm just gonna fix them with putty, no point reprinting those huge parts over that. God it's nice to be able to print more or less an entire tank on one plate. Also I love this design, definitely one of my favourite "legally distinct" models.

>>95875442
All three of those points, lease.

>>95875680
>lease
I meant please. Sorry.
Ideally the best resin would have all three features. But I don't think this is a perfect world so I'm hoping to come across a 3D printing resin that is close enough to having all three features.

This month I'll try to finish the last one of the 5 big chaos demons, yes I know I could find one easily but this is mine, progress so far.

>>95876344
Looking good!

>>95875442
>Sunlu
I have had nothing but problems with it. It refuses to stick to the build plate reliably no matter what I do.

>>95880532
I had some of those problems in the beginning, too.

I think its because it is a thick resin, so heating it and adding wait times helped that. That was on my mars 2 pro, but since I upgraded to a Saturn 4 ultra it works fine without the heating. The Tilting mechanism is probably a bit better at squishing the viscous resin flat.

>>95876344
Is he flying? Looks like his weight could pull him to his right back.
Otherwise, i am proud of your progress, anon.

>>95875668
Who made that tank? I dig the exposed tracks at the top. I've not seen this design with a rhino before.

>>95876541
>>95882126
I'm glad you liked it, ty.
>Is he flying?
No, the right hoof is attached to a bit of fire and skulls that it works as base, I want to make the fire bigger and to cover partially both legs with it to make it more stable, this is the scan that I'm using as reference.

>>95882126
>the last one of the 5 big chaos demons,
Wait, what's the fifth one? You obviously have 4 greater demons for the 4 gods, is the fifth one a daemon prince or something else?

>>95883470
Great Unclean One, Lord of Change, Keeper of Secrets, Bloodthirster and Be'lAkor

God I hate resin slicers so much
They remind me of my childhood of getting beaten up by my parents, that's how bad and outdated those softwares feel

>>95882281
Black Cat Cartel! They make some really nice tanks.

>>95883358
This stuff is amazing, mind outlining your process? I realize media to explain it is a big ask but it looks like you just base your own model off existing ones/scans?
Are you hoping for 1:1 (or close) dimensions for proxying? Is it just to make a base and then dress it up?
I'm assuming from the pics that its just a buncha shapes and then a buttload of sculpting from there? I imagine modeling and printing to be entirely different skill sets, many teething issues in marrying the two hobbies?
Awesome work man.

>>95885868
ty
>mind outlining your process?
I usually try to make a scan to use it as reference from videos, I'm using now 3d zephyr's free version so 50 frames, I crop them and all that, after that I load the scan in blender, blockout the shapes and I use pictures to add the details.
I use a combination of hard surface and organic sculpt depending on the model, blender is slow so the best way to keep it workable is to split the model, I've made models with >2K pieces, and to merge it at at the end with the remesh, or remesh and boolean if I need several parts.
I can work with only pictures or even artwork too but it is easier to miss details.

>>95776347
I know a few in the Poole area if you still exist

Has water washable progressed from the look-at-me-wrong-and-I'll-shatter of back when printers were in their 1st/2nd gen?

I love my Fast/Tenacious mix and the fact that I can bend prints on themselves, but I can really do without the IPA and I don't know if the mix is actually necessary if all I want is something that can be handled at a game table.

>>95888666
Water washable shattering super easy is just a meme anyway. There is abs like water washable too.

>>95886680
>merge it at at the end with the remesh
If you export all the parts as 1 STL with 1 2d plane and open it on Windows 3D builder it will merge all of them together without having to remesh them

Anyone got original Kastelan Robots or Kataphron Breachers files?

>>95883358
Ok, so the fire and stone is tilted to compensate the weight. Looks fine.

>>95753153 (OP)
Hey guys Im new to this. How does the wider community feel about buying .STL files when buying a game? Would you preferer that of just ordering already done models?

>>95892162
>Hey guys Im new to this.
New to what? Printing?

>How does the wider community feel about buying .STL files when buying a game?
The wider community (at least here) does not buy anything, but pirates. (or begs). Besides that, the majority does play 40k, so only proxies for this game have any value.

>Would you preferer that of just ordering already done models?
STL files obviously, because i can download them for free on Telegram sooner or later.

>>95871905
Wrong, he has SoH stuff out there too

>>95759133
>>95759841
>>95761142
So I got telegram on my computer what do I do now?

>>95900765
Just search "warhammer stl" in the search bar for groups and just ask around, best stuff you find by word of mouth

I have finally managed to put my resin printer to work.
I am totally new at this.
It's obvious to handle chemicals with the correct PPE, keep everything as clean as possible, yadda yadda, I have worked in chemical labs so that general stuff is clear and needs no further elaboration. I have proper gloves, enough alcoholic solutions to solve the world thirst problem, and spatulas and shit, and all the tutorials I found focus on that.

I wanted to start with resin calibration, so I got me some calibration normals; the very first print was ok; the flatter one got kinda detached from the platform. I then removed the stuff from the platform, scraped off any resin I could, wiped off the platform and put it back in for the next print with a different exposure time. From that on I made two more prints and both times the flatter one wasn't printed properly anymore, incl. detaching, and the thicker one never got far beyond the base layer anymore.
When I cleaned the bath I noticed that some structures just had stayed stuck to the FEP film; I assume that caused all the further problems. Of course in the opaque resin I couldn't see that.

So my question is if there is some kind of "best practice" for handling resin, amount of resin for the bath, number of consecutive prints, how to treat the FEP film and so on.

>>95904737
If a print fails, you always have to clean out the vat and the fep film, because you can never know if something is sticking there.
Some resins come with a small brush inside the box. You can use that to stir the resin in the vat and see if there is something sticking to the ground.
Your printer should have a cleaning program, that essentially just lights the whole screen, creating a single, solid layer of resin at the bottom.
Then you pour your resin out (back to the bottle if you want to reuse it) and peel out the resin layer from the bottom.
Then you pour resin back in, and printing can continue.

If prints go smooth, you don't need to do anything to the resin and can print on and on and on. I use a scraper to remove everything from the plate, wipe it clean with a sheet of paper towel and continue printing.

If you don't print constantly, you should use something (like those brushes from the resin boxes) to stir up the resin in the vat a bit. I also like to add well shaked fresh resin from the bottle so it mixes with the older stuff.

I fucked up the print and didn't sand the support points well enough or clip them properly. I'm a noob at 3d printing and I also accidently forgot to add supports to the feet. So it's lopsided and doesnt stand without something for Tom to stand on. it's for somebody else and she told they didn't care about all that cause the imperfections "make it beautiful" so yeah i painted it up for them and they're excited to get it.

I supported it myself cause chitubox autosupports add too much but I'm not sure what I'm doing at all. I once bought a print and there was this white paste plugged into the drain holes. is this some kind of product i can buy to fill in holes for the many holes on the bottom of this model? you can see them well but they're pretty bad on the bottom of the hammer's rim and Tom's belly.

>>95904737
Yeah, everything that did not stick to the buildplate ends as pancakes and needs to be removed before you can continue.

The printers Tank cleaning is the best for that, because even if it uses quite some resin it is the easiest on the FEP and since that is way more expensive than a 1mm sheet of resin.

Afterwards it is better to empty the vat, but I always just peel the cured sheet from the full tank. Some people use old supports that they press to the bottom before cleaning to get a handle, but that never worked that great for me so I do not bother with it.

For cleaning the FEP try to keep scratches to a minimum, so only very soft tools are good. I use playing cards to check for checking for pancakes in opaque resin, they are soft and can be thrown away instead of using up alcohol.

>>95818517
I picked up a Mars 5 Ultra and did practically zero research in how to operate the thing. I'm not a complete retard, but these machines are so easy to use nowadays you would have to really work at it to fuck it up. Im honestly amazed at how much this stuff has advanced. Having a self-leveling bed is a must have IMO

>>95905038
>>95904795
Thanks for the replies guise. I especially feel like a retard with the cleaning... I emptied the tank before doing that because
>hurr durr I will only have some droplets left
but that was not good, at all.

>>95753153 (OP)
anyone know some good bloodborne or bloodborn inspired models? specificly want some hunters and beasts, especially vicar amelia.

I saw the boardgame had some decent models, but idk if i want to spend 90 bucks for like 6 models id use total. was thinking about making an age of sail clerical werewolf themed warband for mordheim. “tricorns and teeth” or something like that. but also want a bit of that clerical preistly vibe.

Has anyone seen this specific guy floating around the piracy groups? I could have sworn I downloaded it a few months ago, and can no longer find it without paying $9.

>>95774052
Are those models available anywhere? I haven't played 40k in an age but those look pretty cool (assuming it's 40k related because I at least recognize the heavy bolter)

>>95753153 (OP)
Too many rules in the OP copypasta. It's like this general was made by a Redditor

>>95909427
They are from Golden Dragon Games. The one on the right is on telegram for sure, the other one is a fairly new release, but you might be able to find it too. Both are on mmf too ofc.

>>95906649
I pity whoever had to do the supports for all those leaves.

>>95883358
More updates, the basic body is done, I still have to add more details to the wings, more hair and to sculpt the skin, I'll try to do the armor this weekend, if i have time I'll do the other weapons and I want to sculpt the horns and the head variations too, that's a 100mm base.

Just bought a resin printer from a guy on Facebook and the cat still had a little bit of resin in it. Anyways on the drive home the resin developed a hard film over the top of it and some spilled out and is all over the printer and screen. How do I get it off?
Sorry for being retarded guys, I just impulse bought the printer and I haven't done any research of how to care for it yet

>>95914735
Well done. You may have already ruined your printer without printing. If it is still liquid you can clean it with a paper towel and some IPA. If its hardened... you can try scraping carefully with a plastic razor or a regular one if your feeling brave.

>>95914763
Okay I'll give that a go lmao. Is it possible to get the hard resin out of the vat?
Only spent $50 on the printer btw

>>95914763
Also, I wiped off all the liquid resin, but there was some hard bits on the screen still. I'll try the razor method.

>>95914823
Just scrape it off, its not really such a big deal.

On another note, no one told me resin smells so fucking bad, holy shit. I have a severe migraine just from smelling this stuff, it smells so toxic

>>95915274
Did you do ANY research before buying the printer? Did you lick the resin too, by chance?

>>95914735
Yyyeah, that's going to be a problem. Post pics?
If you manage to get it cleaned up and running, you can try putting a really thin film of PTFE oil on the top surface of the printer (not in the vat) to help make any future clean up easier. Just put a little on a napkin, wipe it on, then wipe it off with a fresh, clean napkin. That should help keep the resin from sticking to the surface too much.

>>95915274
Yeah, I recommend you get ventilation but also some silicon mats. At least two: One under the printer and one to work on. Another if you have a wash/cure unit (I just water cure my stuff, I'm not in a hurry)
If you're a complete noob, remember to keep the resin around 20C/65F at least during printing. Lower temperatures tend to get you failures or pretty messy results.

>>95911142
Thanks!

>>95915582
>>95915351
>Did you do any research
Nope. I saw a guy selling a printer for $50 and thought "hmm I'll go grab this to print some scatter terrain and I'll read up on how to use it later tonight" then I went and picked it up

i fucked up, got too overeager and cured a print before it had time to properly rest and left some wet spots in some of the recesses. can i still use this shit or should i just take the loss and print for another 10 hours?

>>95915750
Okay, so you didn't wash/clean the print before curing? If it's cured at this point, it's really your call as to whether it's good enough to keep and/or use. If it's a blob and you want something nicer, you can always print again.

>>95915833
i cleaned it, dried it but the IPA pooled in the recesses and it wasn't coming out. Impatience got the better of me and i have like these wet spots here and there.

>>95915924
I honestly can't see it.
If in doubt, just sand it away.

>>95915924
Looks like it might be fine. Sometimes cured resin comes out a little shiny but is dry but smooth. If you want to try cleaning it again, I guess you can try a soft bristle toothbrush. Watch out for spatter.

>>95915630
To be fair I got my first 4k printer for like 70 bucks used on ebay and had zero idea what I was doing with it for the first week either
It is just a part of the natural growth of the hobbyist

>>95915924
Just prime it and you'll see.

noob here

Would increasing the size of a 3D model by 10-15% be a simple and quick thing to do?

I just got some minis printed by a friend and they are lacking in detail compared to the pictures provided by the creator but are also kind of small and spindly, so I figure a small size increase in the 3D program might fix that while keeping them roughly in wargaming scale.

>>95902262
>best stuff you find by word of mouth
REEEE where to ask?

>>95920767
Ok so, extra context for those unaware
GW is like on a massive killing spree rn against stl related stuff so most of the tele groups are on lockdown for the coming months til it blows over
So like 90% of the normally searchable groups are set to private so good luck with it
Just like try any of the few open ones and ask

>>95922256
and yea alllllll of this started, because of some guy selling ps4 space marine themed controller covers on etsy and it just snowballed into this massive fucking mess

>>95922277
The purge of Etsy, Amazon and other marketplaces for merch has nothing to do with STLs. Nothing big happened on telegram recently.

Is FDM actually good enough quality for 30k tanks/dreads or is a Rhino for example too small for that kind of printing? Resin would be nice but I don't trust my cats, or my wife to keep the cats out of the garage, especially since it's actively used for our washer/dryer.

>>95922358
Yes it did, two whole big STL channels got taken down, a lot of the other ones are on lockdown
You're either not in the community or are on the absolute surface level channels to be saying that

>>95922461
If you get a decent printer and a small enough nozzle, it is good enough (for me).
There will be some layer lines for sure, but they will be minimal. Google around, you will find enough examples.

If you are a perfectionist and only the smoothest surfaces imaginable will do for you, then no.

>>95922627
what channels? I'm in like 300 different groups, and i did not notice anything.

>>95922461
Unless you get a very fine detailed super small nozzle I would just stick to using FDM for terrain I think resin is still better for actual models

>>95922653
You can't name names on here I don't think
But yea it was two of the big ones for scans, generic shit is its own ecosystem

>>95922679
If the groups are gone, why cant you name them?

>>95922722
Because 1. not gonna help you get any closer to what you're looking for
2. all it's gonna do is make the gw shills and lawyers rev up their fryers again and be on the hunt for more or related shit as soon as they get a lead
Not saying names is common knowledge just refer to shit as vaguely as possible
That's all you're getting from me Mr GW sir, good day

>>95922810
Nothing happened, as i said.

>>95912585
That looks really good. I like the chaos signs on the wings.

>>95920720
You should be able to do a simple rescaling in the slicer if that's all you need to do. I'm not familiar enough with FDM slicers but I know you can do it in Orca and for MSLA, both Chitu and Lychee can do it. They can be scaled on the x, y, and z

>>95922884
You're wrong lmao
You literally just don't know or aren't using any of the good groups
Only other thing I'm gonna say man but shit is going down, not fearmongering but it's just happening

>>95925403
Of course Anon. Now its only the good groups that are affected, not the other, huge, public ones.
Only the ones you are in, and whose names you cant tell, despite the fact they are, apparently, known to GW already, otherwise they would not have striked against them, as you claim.

You are full of shit my dude.

>>95922256
>GW is like on a massive killing spree rn against stl related stuff
I know.

Why did you geniuses not make a torrent?
If I get STLs I will host it on the dark web or with a torrent.

>>95753153 (OP)
WTF are all these models?
Like how do they happen?
How are they made?

This one looks CORRECTION
This one IS modeled by hand!
So someone decided to model a mech by hand....
Only for some reason some parts of it are low poly while others are modeled with lots of poly.......

Like WHY?

I can understand the joints who will be glued together however... the external parts? WTF?

>>95926916
I know this one can not be a official GW model because all GW models have autistic faces.

>>95926916
I know this one can not be a official GW model because all GW models have autistic faces.

Autism for the Autism GOD!

>>95926916
>torrent

Nobody uses this shit gramps.

>>95927008
Get off of my motherfucking lawn you piece of shit whippersnapper

>>95927008
>Nobody uses this shit gramps.
>I give me private info to the telegram mega corporation and play Hide and Seek with GW banning telegram groups.
Do zoomeroids really?

>>95927008
>>95927016
>Get off of my motherfucking lawn

>gramps

Zoomers = bomers.
Same memes.
Same technological illiteracy.
Same phone addiction.
Zoomers are boomers.

>>95927243
You realize people got fined for up- and downloading copyrighted stuff via torrents back in the 00s already?
Thats why people went away from it towards OCHs like Megaupload, uploaded, rapidshare etc, but that stuff is also not save and they can get to you.

I have to add a couple of things here and there and to sculpt the wings and the skin but it is mostly done.
>>95924461
ty.

>>95927400
Thats a fine piece.

>>95927400
That's pretty neat. I feel like the belt needs either more detail or stuff hanging from it on the backside, it's too big and uniform.

Do you guys recommend any other resources besides the hohansen guy on reddit for fdm minis? Just got a P1S, been mostly printing organizational stuff for my painting area but I did grab a 0.2mm nozzle and want to give it a go soon. I have an older resin printer but my health took a nosedive and I haven't been able to use it in ages, so if I can get the fdm to come out alright I'd like to just sell the resin to someone who would use it more often. Suggestions on models/makers who are easy to print would be good too, so I can dial in the settings without screwing myself with a model that's difficult from the start.
Also, any recs for good organizational systems/storage for boardgames and other /tg/ type stuff?

it's fun to print, but better to paint

>>95928951
>>95929093
I'm glad you liked it, ty.
Yes the belt is half the width and it has a chaos logo in the center of the back too.

>>95926928
The picture you posted looks like a bunch of boolean operations. I'm not really sure what you're freaking out about? It's definitely not optimized on polycount but, meh. The unions were honestly unnecessary for printing but the subtractions are essential, though maybe not with so many faces. I guess they could maybe have tried to decimate it or something. There are so many modelers out there that don't optimize their shit, I kinda stopped caring for most situation. Except that one time someone uploaded a barrel or something that was so high in poly count, it crashed my computer when I tried to open it in a modeler to see wtf they did.

anybody know why this print failed? are the supports just shit

>>95930325
Yeah and the orientation is pretty bad. You need to print them vertically.

>>95930325
You don't want large flat surfaces running parallel to the build plate

>>95926916
Because nobody uses torrents for models lmao
Also like if you wanted only a specific model you'd have to wait for the rest of the 5gb download you see the problem with it
Much easier to pick and choose like window shopping for specific stuff instead of downloading bulk and hoping it has what you mean
Also downloading stuff on telegram is just way easier, you're instantly notified whenever a scanner releases something new right at that moment etc etc
There is just so many more reasons to use something like gram over old school torrenting

>>95931145
*has what you need
Sorry just got back from a long day at work
>>95930325
I try to maybe angle stuff that's just flat rings like that up by at least 25 degrees like I think it's a rule not to print anything just straight flat like that, never worked for me at least

>>95931145
>Also like if you wanted only a specific model you'd have to wait for the rest of the 5gb download you see the problem with it
You do understand that torrents let's you pick and choose what to download, unlike Telegram where if it's all in one zip then you are shit out of luck and downloading the entire zip file for a single model. I do somewhat agree with the window shopping point though, I do regularly browse miniature STL grams just to see what might pique my interest.

>>95931618
Yea you get to pick specific stuff on telegram usually, isn't just like a massive meatball file like you'd get on torrents, sorry if the post was confusing, forgot to use commas :/

having some issues where it looks like models will peel off the supports in the middle of the print, but just some times, like that little support there, was a hand but it didnt came out.
Also dont know if related, but some times the layers of the model will peel off and dont stick correctly, that in this tail.

Should I slow down the elevation speed? the distance? is just that this yellow resin is not that good? because Im having this problems mostly with this resin i decided to try.