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Thread 95975396

381 posts 164 images /tg/
Anonymous No.95975396 [Report] >>95978637 >>95980026 >>95990279 >>95998066
WIP - Work In Progress General
make the new thread so I can post my wipes Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>95949628
>>95921769
Anonymous No.95975476 [Report] >>95977750
>>95974401
Should I go for translucent caps?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006142768790.html?
Or stick with black caps instead?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006139686602.html

Assuming they are the same as the alternative dropper caps that Monument Hobbies offers.
Anonymous No.95975619 [Report]
>>95975183
Calligraphy nerd here, there's a word for the technique
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_marbling
TLDR get a shallow tray of water, add a surfactant like jet-dry (you'll find it in the dishwasher supplies), float some oil paints on the water, swirl it, then dip the top of a primed base into it. Lift it out, let it dry. I'd just use magnetized bases and a steel rod for the dipping.
>DG420
I see Mortarion be blazin' it tonight.
Anonymous No.95975733 [Report] >>95975786
Painting my new knight bit by bit.
At least it's not batch painting.
Anonymous No.95975786 [Report] >>95975983 >>95978204
Taking heavy inspiration from Duncan on how Im going about my Iron Warrior Tac squads. Getting some contrast paint to give the bare steel look for the armor plates in particular have been great. The middle two are 1 and 2 coats respectively of basilicanum grey. I think the difference is subtle, but I think it will pay off in the end. Looking to get 10 torsos up to at least trimmed tonight. Having a blast getting into this hobby.
On a non-painting note, I didnt notice my printing errors until I had already started on the metallic undercoat. Hopefully my troubleshooting fixed the heavy line issues on my next batches/prints.

>>95975733
>not batch painting
Im thinking about printing out an Iron Sphere or maybe a White Scar Keshig Rider to have something to break up the monotony of building a whole army of grey metal plate.
Anonymous No.95975799 [Report]
Just did these up over a few hours last night and tonight.
Anonymous No.95975828 [Report] >>95975844 >>95975949
Work keeps getting in the way, but as long as I do the bases before Saturday, at least I won't be losing any VP. I don't know why I keep punishing myself by doing things in batches. I'm ready to rope myself long before I'm close to being done, and all I think about is painting literally anything else. I already paid the entry fee, so not wasting money is the only real motivator currently.
Anonymous No.95975844 [Report]
>>95975828
>running around like headless chicken
Anonymous No.95975847 [Report] >>95981085
got all my basecoats on today. Now a lot of cleaning up to do.
Anonymous No.95975943 [Report] >>95976089 >>95977429 >>95980058 >>95986445
littel collage of the varying nid schemes I was toying around with, I like 3 and 4 but they were a lot more effort than 1 and 2 and I could see my will to paint a horde of them rapidly fade away.
Have settled on 1 and now it's time to paint a lot of delicious chocolate brown nids
Anonymous No.95975949 [Report]
>>95975828
That colbalt/blue color looks great!
Anonymous No.95975983 [Report] >>95976129
>>95975786
That's a nice metal, here is one I did a few weeks ago, the other 4 are still packed up
Anonymous No.95976065 [Report] >>95976215 >>95976246 >>95976254
>>95975351
I actually just decided to throw some inks on and see what happends. It's not coming out too bad, but I now have to wait till it's full dry to make a real judgment.
Anonymous No.95976089 [Report]
>>95975943
4 is a little garish but 1 looks great, it's a natural set of tones that still feels alien. 2 is a great 'classic' nid too.
Anonymous No.95976129 [Report]
>>95975983
oh man your metal looks great. Much more polished/clean look. Was that dry brushing?
Anonymous No.95976215 [Report] >>95976246 >>95976341
>>95976065
google hydro dipping
Anonymous No.95976246 [Report] >>95976254 >>95976341
>>95976065
>>95976215
>google hydro dipping
this. You'll probably want thicker paint, which may be a bit awkward on miniatures, but maybe you can also use that fancy paper with the color swirls if you prepare you bases separately from your minis. There are also these transfer foils for nail art. I've look at those before for the marble textures, but you can get pretty funky patterns as well, so maybe that is worth checking out for something like you are trying to do.
Anonymous No.95976254 [Report] >>95976341
>>95976065
>>95976246
>that fancy paper with the color swirls
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_marbling
this is what I meant. You can get that at most art and craft stores, if you find a nice hole punch the correct size you could churn out bases pretty quickly.
Anonymous No.95976269 [Report] >>95976456 >>95978426
Anonymous No.95976341 [Report]
>>95976215
>>95976246
>>95976254
I actually didn't realize how easy that looks. Thanks anons
Anonymous No.95976456 [Report] >>95977420
>>95976269
Where did you get this picture of me?
Anonymous No.95976713 [Report] >>95977329
I see people buying shit on aliexpress in these threads and IDK how the fuck you guys find anything useful. It's all algorithmed to shit and the search results are absolutely retarded and give you nothing related to what you're actually looking for. how the fuck?
Anonymous No.95976839 [Report] >>95977073
How would you guys create a waste acid puddle effect on bases? I was thinking doing some UV resin mixed with fluo green paint. I see AK has fluo inks, whould I use that instead?
Anonymous No.95976970 [Report] >>95976976 >>95978438
Did this brute today in about 6 hours. Tried Vince V’s new “wet blending speedpaint” method but I’m a wet blend noob and I have rarely wet blended at all. So while it took him like 30 minutes to do a nice vampire knight it took me hours to do this guy. It was still a lot of fun and easier than I thought. I’m proud that I didn’t use any washes or contrast paints like I normally would for all the bone and metal and wrappings. Came out better than I thought it would. I wanted to do a warmer black armor but I didn’t know how so I just went with incubi darkness and black.

Next guys are just gonna get a dry brush over the armor.
Anonymous No.95976976 [Report] >>95978438
>>95976970
Back side
Anonymous No.95977073 [Report] >>95977698 >>95984587
>>95976839
Picrel is AK Still Water mixed with a bit of Nurgles Rot and Moot Green.
Anonymous No.95977329 [Report]
>>95976713
Your credit score might be too low
Anonymous No.95977420 [Report]
>>95976456
I am living inside your walls
Anonymous No.95977429 [Report] >>95980131
>>95975943
I like how the blue on #4 expresses, how do you do it?
Anonymous No.95977698 [Report] >>95977707 >>95977751 >>95977896
>>95977073
How do you prevent the liquid from overflowing the rim? Do you build it up very slowly?
Anonymous No.95977707 [Report]
>>95977698
This was pretty much the first time I've ever attempted to do it, and I just poured one layer, waited for it to dry, then another, etc. You can just swipe away any excess. That said, when I'm doing it again, I'm definitely using a masking tape or something similar to make the process simpler and faster.
Anonymous No.95977750 [Report] >>95980087
>>95975476
I would probably go for transparent. Archive-X use a transparent version of the twisty caps for their paints and compared to my proacryl it's nice because you can see the colour better. But for uniformity I guess black works too and protects paints from the sun in case you're storing them near your window or something.
Anonymous No.95977751 [Report]
>>95977698
another option could be to hollow out the bases (cut a hole in the plastic on top and glue some plastic card underneath) to create a recess.
>random example with round lip bases I had on in my folder for reference.
Anonymous No.95977896 [Report]
>>95977698
you can hotglue a bendy plastic to the rim to create a wall, or just some stiff tape if you arent pouring too much
Anonymous No.95978183 [Report] >>95978450 >>95978529 >>95980298
>>95974773
My question is more of what direction you go for glazing something like this eye for example. When glazing for the transition from red to orange to yellow, would you use vertical brush strokes to make a bunch of very translucent vertical layers and slowly make your way from the red to the yellow that way? Or go horizontally? I can kind of see the paint strokes and it looks like this eye used horizontal strokes.
Anonymous No.95978204 [Report] >>95980542
>>95975786
Try building up a 2 layer edge highlight on the undercoat because it’ll shine through the contrast and look even better
Anonymous No.95978218 [Report]
Anonymous No.95978285 [Report]
Sunday's progress on my sorcerer termi and his familiar
Anonymous No.95978394 [Report]
Grimed up
Anonymous No.95978426 [Report]
>>95976269
>If you gaze too long into an abyss, the abyss also gazes into you
Anonymous No.95978438 [Report]
>>95976970
>>95976976
Not too bad at all, speed will come with time. Skin will probably need some highlight touchups after you've finished the armor and know how bright your brightest highlights will need to be.
Anonymous No.95978450 [Report]
>>95978183
Depends on the colors, but I usually prefer to glaze from the dark to the light.
Anonymous No.95978455 [Report] >>95978497 >>95978526
De-grimed. Looks pretty grimdark albeit a bit bland. Sadly the camera doesn't do it justice
Anonymous No.95978497 [Report]
>>95978455
Start with a brighter scheme if you're gonna dip.
Anonymous No.95978512 [Report] >>95978517
Did a quick mockup for a diorama idea i've been toying with for a while.
I don't play space marines but the executioners are my favorite chapter by far. Got Fafnir Rann a while ago and i'm trying to make use of him.
So i've decided that i'll create a diorama about the chapter's founding on Terra. This guy will be the champion of his bodyguard. There will be two more: a chaplain and a standard bearer alongside the chapter master himself.
Now i just have think about the terrain, maybe the steps of the eternity gate.
Anonymous No.95978517 [Report]
>>95978512
Holy fuck, i've just noticed how much mold slippage is on his legs...
Anonymous No.95978526 [Report]
>>95978455
There you go, once he's dry touch up your highlights and he'll be all set.
Anonymous No.95978529 [Report] >>95978807 >>95980298
>>95978183
I don't know how exactly that anon went about it but that is a small enough surface that you could go outwards from the center. When glazing you always want to end on the side where the color of your glaze is. That's because there will always be more paint deposited in the spot where you lift up your brush.
Anonymous No.95978637 [Report]
>>95975396 (OP)
Got the base coat of purple down on these lads, hoping to get them finished this week
Anonymous No.95978750 [Report]
AL Dreadnought WIP. While nice looking, i’m not entirely sold on doing an AL army and the legion doesn’t speak to me like some of the others
Anonymous No.95978807 [Report] >>95979198 >>95980298
>>95978529
So for a larger surface, like a cape for example. I'm guessing you'd glaze it like on the left, doing it in sections horizontally rather then doing many vertical glazing strokes.
Anonymous No.95978901 [Report] >>95980143
These artisan guild minis are a real joy to paint, I did this druid lady in a couple hours.
Anonymous No.95979071 [Report] >>95979396 >>95979418 >>95983827
Beginner question:
These separate hands, in the Cultist I kit, I’m supposed to put them on another arm from the kit (say… the bow here) after cutting the original hand, right?
I don’t see any arm with no hand, in the kit.
Anonymous No.95979198 [Report] >>95979385
>>95978807
In all honesty on large surfaces I get better results with layering instead
Anonymous No.95979261 [Report] >>95979318
Somehow can't catch focus good but what do you think? I lost one eye detail due to primer filling it up on right guy so I instead made "scar" where it should be to mask it, hope it looks okay.
Anonymous No.95979318 [Report] >>95979352 >>95979391
>>95979261
Looks amazing anon!
They are 3D prints?
Anonymous No.95979352 [Report] >>95979391
>>95979318
Thank you. These are actual (metal) minis from Corvus Belli Infinity game.
Anonymous No.95979385 [Report]
>>95979198
I guess I'll just have to get better at mixing enough paint to actually cover everything properly unless I want 30 shades of the same color
Anonymous No.95979391 [Report]
>>95979318
>>95979352
Infinity makes some great sculpts and these came out great
Anonymous No.95979396 [Report] >>95981965 >>95982780
>>95979071
What is the cultist kit?
Having people cut up parts is not something I've ever seen.
Anonymous No.95979418 [Report] >>95983827
>>95979071
Yeah, you are correct. The cultist kit is prime kitbash fodder.
Anonymous No.95979421 [Report] >>95979433 >>95981551 >>95982087
The Veggies are done! Thank you to the anon that suggested the veggie terrain videos, the cabbages came out well and really sell the farm vibe. I'm really excited to use these guys as chaotic garden guards and possibly henchmen for the party
Anonymous No.95979433 [Report]
>>95979421
lovely
Anonymous No.95980026 [Report] >>95982115 >>95982665 >>95982705
>>95975396 (OP)
I think I'm done with him. Thanks for the advice regarding the spear and gem colors, anons.
Anonymous No.95980058 [Report]
>>95975943
Oddly enough, 2 is my favorite. It allows every component to be visually separate and distinct. The only thing I would change is maybe changing the color of the gun into something a little different from the rest of the body so it reads as a gun.
Anonymous No.95980087 [Report]
>>95977750
Bought the black caps after some thought. The translucent caps are too “foggy” to properly gauge the color. I’ll just put a dab of paint on top of the black droppers.
Anonymous No.95980103 [Report] >>95980179 >>95980220 >>95980381
Anybody here use airbrushes?
Is 99 percent isopropyl alcohol enough as an airbrush cleaner? I use it to strip models of acrylic paint.
And is a face mask instead of a gas mask enough?
Anonymous No.95980131 [Report]
>>95977429
model was sprayed with army painter crystal blue then a slightly thinned down Aethermatic blue coat. Highlights were done with vallejo model color bluegreen
Anonymous No.95980143 [Report] >>95980153 >>95980333
>>95978901
She's got absolutely massive thighs, and I like that.
Anonymous No.95980153 [Report]
>>95980143
A man of taste and refinement
Anonymous No.95980179 [Report] >>95980220 >>95981498
>>95980103
I use 99% IPA for basically all of the cleaning. Usually, I go water, IPA, and water again while using an old brush to scrub until the water comes out clean when I backflow. For masks, as long as you have good airflow and you're only using acrylics, then the requirement for breathing protection is very low. I use some enamel washes, so I use a filtered painters mask in a spraybooth. IPA doesn't really work on oils/enamels, so you need to get a hold of white spirits if you plan on running those through your airbrush.
Anonymous No.95980220 [Report] >>95981498
>>95980103
>>95980179
>the requirement for breathing protection is very low
breathing paint particles is not good even if they are inert, costs nothing to wear a mask, save your body some work
Anonymous No.95980298 [Report] >>95980663
>>95978183
It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you're starting from the red basecoat of the eye and want to glaze the orange/yellow in to build the highlight you would go from the outside in. Like this anon >>95978529 said, you tend to deposit more paint at the end of your brush stroke. If you are glazing to smooth out a transition like you are showing here >>95978807 then you would go vertically, because your brush is loaded with your midtone and if you drag that into either of the adjacent colors it's more likely to result in visible streaks.
Anonymous No.95980333 [Report]
>>95980143
glad you said something, I didnt even notice. I bet she could pop your ears while you worship at her altar
Anonymous No.95980381 [Report] >>95981498
>>95980103
It will certainly work but I like to have something hotter, and preferably cheaper than IPA. Hardware store paint solvent works pretty well.
Anonymous No.95980542 [Report]
>>95978204
darn it, I already finished contrasting this batch last night. Ill definitely try that for the next ones tho, thanks anon
Anonymous No.95980663 [Report]
>>95980298
I see. So the transition itself would want the horizontal strokes because that's depositing the paint in the direction of the glaze. But if you have blocks of color that you want to smooth a transition you'd do a vertical glaze.
Anonymous No.95981085 [Report] >>95981109
>>95975847
he’s almost done.
Anonymous No.95981109 [Report] >>95981142
>>95981085
Oof, you moved on from that base coat waaaay too soon.
Anonymous No.95981142 [Report] >>95981182
>>95981109
what’s wrong with it? What do you suggest?
Anonymous No.95981182 [Report] >>95981199
>>95981142
Do you not see how this is splotchy and 60%+ of it is primer showing through?
Anonymous No.95981199 [Report] >>95981300 >>95981303 >>95989794
>>95981182
That’s not primer. I glazed some blues on top of macragge base. I’m still not completed cleaning up the armor.
Anonymous No.95981243 [Report] >>95981285 >>95983474 >>95983617
Whats WIP's opinion on the new warpaints fanatic paint series? I'm still pretty new to the hobby, so I dont have a ton of exposure to all the different paint lines, but so far I'm really enjoying working with them. From what I understand the previous Warpaint line was dogshit, but they did something unprecedented and listened to customer feedback and unfucked themselves.
Anonymous No.95981285 [Report]
>>95981243

They are a big improvement over the original Warpaints. I dig the line a lot and I used to hate Army Painter. The downside of the good opacity is that they added lots of white and grey into the mixes, so lots of the colors are pretty desaturated. But you can work around that of course. I really like what they did with those John Blanche sets as well, love those colors.

I'm mostly using AK and AP these days with some Citadel stuff still. I have also bunch of old Vallejo, shame they fucked up with their new formula.
Anonymous No.95981300 [Report] >>95981316
>>95981199
I don't see how you're going to save that splotchiness when you've already done your highlights and such, that's something that should've been finalized before you moved on to washes and details, much less highlights.
Anonymous No.95981303 [Report] >>95983019
>>95981199
?? You've already put decals on it.
Anonymous No.95981316 [Report] >>95981379
>>95981300
I don’t plan on entering a painting tournament anytime soon. Just putting together some Ultramarines to play my friend once every other week. I think it looks pretty good.
Anonymous No.95981379 [Report] >>95981389
>>95981316
If you don't want criticism in the spirit of improvement, why are you posting in /WIP/?
Anonymous No.95981389 [Report] >>95981417
>>95981379
I’m not trying to sound defensive. If you have any ideas on how I can improve this model it would be appreciated.
Anonymous No.95981417 [Report] >>95981483 >>95981487
>>95981389
Not without removing the decals and needing to redo your highlights and details after fixing it up
your base layer needs to be more solid, you didn't glaze enough coats to have the needed uniformity.
Anonymous No.95981483 [Report]
>>95981417
Addendum: this wouldn't be so bad on a small model, but with a large piece like this it sticks out in a bad way.
Anonymous No.95981487 [Report] >>95981500
>>95981417
I suppose i’ll just keep it as is then.
Anonymous No.95981498 [Report]
>>95980179
>>95980220
>>95980381
Thanks! I’ll stick with ipa then and I guess the mask will stay as well.
I work with purely acrylics but some of the oil wash involved finished models here are making oils and enamels tempting.
Anonymous No.95981500 [Report] >>95981515 >>95985413
>>95981487
Anon is doomsaying
You can hit it with another thin layer of the blue you want or leave it
It's tabletop ready and that's what I do
Have a baby turtle I did for fun
Anonymous No.95981515 [Report]
>>95981500
Appreciate it. I’m just trying for tabletop.

And I also do appreciate anons critique. I genuinely am trying to improve. If I came off as rude I apologize.
Anonymous No.95981529 [Report] >>95981917
Has anybody tried using thin line nail art brushes for painting tiny details on miniatures?
Anonymous No.95981551 [Report] >>95985422
>>95979421
glad to be of help. They came out real good anon!
Anonymous No.95981917 [Report] >>95982022
>>95981529
Why not use a micro pen?
Anonymous No.95981965 [Report] >>95982002 >>95982719
>>95979396
>What is the cultist kit?
North Star Minis' Frostgrave Cultists. North Star, Wargames Atlantic, Fireforge, and a couple other companies make proper old-school plastics you can kitbash. Sprue related. They assume you're able to chop and wiggle a few parts depending on exactly what you want to make, and will often have two to five times as many weapons and heads in the kits as miniatures. It's not uncommon for kitbashers to buy a couple sprues from one of the more prolific kits to dress up less-interesting models or unify the weapons on a warband. In particular the Frostgrave Wizards and Cultists, along with Oathmark infantry in general, have a huge number of weapons and useful bits
Warlord Games and some of the other historical people usually use open hands you glue weapons into (nicknamed "taco hands"). Since few of the weapons are molded into hands you can still use them to do stuff like making armory stashes and objective markers. The Warlords of Erewhon skeleton kit is fucking terrible to build but it's an amazing source for loose bones and equipment to slap on bases or in terrain.
Anonymous No.95982002 [Report]
>>95981965
Wish Frostgrave minis were slightly larger. The size difference with my other stuff is just different enough that it bothers the hell out of me.
Anonymous No.95982022 [Report] >>95982180
>>95981917
I plan to paint tiny hieroglyphics on the side of a tank in colours that aren't black.
So a micro pen to my knowledge may not work for the job.
Also I think it is funny when the predominantly female hobby of nails and makeup provides so much cool and cheaper stuff for this miniature painting hobby.
Anonymous No.95982081 [Report] >>95982120 >>95982142 >>95982711 >>95984200 >>95985441
do u like my elfs so far? what changes if any would u make to the scheme
Anonymous No.95982087 [Report]
>>95979421
That's some good shit.
Anonymous No.95982115 [Report] >>95982344
>>95980026
Nice, the spear looks really good. The gems on the spear being the same color as the armor to tie the weapon to the wielder worked well. If anything you could go even more vibrant with the orange robes or faceplate next time, the scheme has good bones to build on.
Anonymous No.95982120 [Report] >>95982142 >>95984200
>>95982081
the others which are less done at the moment
Anonymous No.95982142 [Report]
>>95982081
>>95982120
I like the theme. Very autumn. I think you could probably fit an orange in there somewhere as well or bring a red further up if you want some more colour. Just whatever keeps to the autumn theme. And then if you want some contrast, maybe a teal or light blue somewhere. Like a metal buckle, a gem, maybe the masks. Even some simple blue tattoos would work. Just as long as it's a different material to the bulk of the model.
Anonymous No.95982180 [Report]
>>95982022
Short liner/script brush, size 0 gives you a sharp tip and a large enough belly so the tip wont dry between the palette and mini.
Anonymous No.95982344 [Report]
>>95982115
Would you push it towards yellow for the highlights?
Anonymous No.95982432 [Report] >>95982534
Calling them done.
Anonymous No.95982534 [Report] >>95982569
>>95982432
How'd you do the shield design? is it a decal?
Anonymous No.95982569 [Report] >>95982699 >>95984214
>>95982534
It’s a decal. They were a style I had never used before. They have a thick paper back and are slightly sticky on the front. You stick it on and then wet the back then the thick backing comes off
Anonymous No.95982597 [Report] >>95982634 >>95982661
WIP. Getting these guys to rank up is really hard. Will probably need ideas for a few 20mm unit fillers because I suspect I will need them when I try to line up the whole unit.
Anonymous No.95982634 [Report] >>95982732
>>95982597
What goes on the banner?
Anonymous No.95982661 [Report]
>>95982597
Why not just scrap the retarded monkeyrats and start over with IoB or modern ones? Neither of those have this problem by virtue of doing away with gorilla arms and poses.
Anonymous No.95982665 [Report]
>>95980026
Very nice, good job on the gems
Anonymous No.95982699 [Report]
>>95982569
They look good.
Anonymous No.95982705 [Report] >>95985742
>>95980026
This works great, and makes me want to try warm orange and dark green together in the future.
Anonymous No.95982711 [Report]
>>95982081
>what changes if any would u make to the scheme
they look great, but you might be able to save yourself some time if you prime them in a desert yellow or something like that instead of grey. Only feedback I have, really.
Anonymous No.95982719 [Report]
>>95981965
I grabbed the Frostgrave Snakemen for 8€ last winter for some kitbashing and they're legit.
Anonymous No.95982732 [Report] >>95985553
>>95982634
Some skaven rune in white. Haven't decided which one.
Anonymous No.95982780 [Report] >>95982887 >>95983187 >>95989780
>>95979396
>Having people cut up parts is not something I've ever seen.
Not that unusual. Here's a weapons sprue from 2nd edition 40k. You have to cut up all of these to some extent to use them with your models. Modern kits can have a lot more parts on them these days, so I guess companies have to compromise less.
Anonymous No.95982816 [Report] >>95996638
Finished up this castellan. I'm happy with the job but a couple of spots were a little rough, such as around the buttons at the waist. Had a couple of shit prime jobs that I tried to strip with Isopropyl. Only issue was that no amount of brushing got rid of the gunk in the folds or corners.

Any advice for removing stubborn primer for the future? I tried sandpaper but got worried about losing detail
Anonymous No.95982887 [Report] >>95982912
>>95982780
>all my really old first space marines pressing their boltgun to their chest instead of holding the handle because I didn't understand what to do as a kid
Anonymous No.95982912 [Report] >>95983165
>>95982887
Yeah. You're not alone. There is something charming about the poorly put together janky old minis with out of scale basing and crude paintjobs vs the super detailed monopose stuff painted with specialist products you see from beginners these days. The end product may be more polished, but also less personal. Maybe it's rose tinted glasses, but armies felt more specific to the person that built them.
Anonymous No.95983019 [Report]
>>95981303
you're not one of those weirdos that puts decals on last are you?
Anonymous No.95983165 [Report]
>>95982912
Definitely, old multipose plastics just encouraged everyone regardless of skill to make what they wanted/thought was cool. Which then led them onto ideas and challenges past the kits as sold. With monopose and limited options people's imaginations don't soar. Especially when they feel their own ideas would never hold up to the already beautifully over designed CAD kits. I remember a guy who put eagle wings on every single terminator he had, it looked so weird and awesome. And remember stuff like looted wagons that didn't have any actual models so people HAD to make something new. I remember a guy made some Tyranid that had no official model from scratch and used a HUGE not hollow cylinder of green stuff for it's snake-like torso. I remember as a kid thinking it was a waste lol but it was cool as hell.
Anonymous No.95983187 [Report] >>95983282
>>95982780
Space Marines using autopistols and laspistols.
Early 40k was wild
Anonymous No.95983282 [Report]
>>95983187
Pretty sure that was also for Guard. 2e SM didn't have auto nor laspistols. Scouts had autoguns.
Anonymous No.95983474 [Report] >>95983623
>>95981243
They are okay. Have problems with oils/white spirit.
Anonymous No.95983617 [Report] >>95983623
>>95981243
They are great paints, and i would use them over citadel and vallejo any day. However, if you plan to use oil paints or any other enamel products (like this grimdark streaking grime stuff) on top of them, they can reactivate easily. So in that case, buy a different brand.
But if you dont intend to use any kind of alcohol or oil based paints, they are perfectly fine.
Anonymous No.95983623 [Report] >>95983791
>>95983474
>>95983617
He could always just varnish before using enamels/oils if he's set on getting AP
Anonymous No.95983791 [Report] >>95983794 >>95983795 >>95983823
>>95983623
He could also just use other brand that have no such problems. Personally, I wish I would discover AK before Vallejo since they are much easier to work for me and now I already have lots of Vallejo paints. Way too much.
Anonymous No.95983794 [Report] >>95983837 >>95983885
>>95983791
>and now I already have lots of Vallejo paints. Way too much.

And what is the issue? They are not unusable, so you will eventually use them up completely, and you can replace them one by one.
Anonymous No.95983795 [Report] >>95983870
>>95983791
Same, but with AP. I seriously consider selling them, they are overall downgrade as fuck compared to AK.
Anonymous No.95983823 [Report]
>>95983791
Yeah of course I'm just mentioning the possibility.
>I wish I would discover AK before Vallejo since they are much easier to work for me and now I already have lots of Vallejo paints
Same. I've actually replaced most of the Vallejo stuff I got with AK/TTC, that's how much I didn't like working with them. I wish there was an LGS in my city so I could donate all that shit, I doubt I'm going to be using them again.
Anonymous No.95983827 [Report] >>95984001
>>95979071
Alright, so, new project !
Frostgrave cultists + Warlord Games Panzergrenadiers, to make generic cultists which can be used anywhere from Lovecraft, to Post Apocalyptic, to sci-fi. I kept half of them with the original medieval weapons from the Frostgrave kit, for the horror factor and also so that they can be used in sword and sorcery if needs be.
>>95979418
>The cultist kit is prime kitbash fodder.
They are! It’s such a flexible kit
Anonymous No.95983837 [Report] >>95983893
>>95983794
They are perfectly usable, most of them at least but the issue is similar to invest into one tools only to discover better one later - sure, your current one is still okay but you have lingering feeling that you could do better.
Anonymous No.95983870 [Report] >>95983885 >>95983887 >>95983901
>>95983795
>they are overall downgrade as fuck compared to AK.

Not really, there are several mediocre AK paints and worst of all AK has awful quality dropper bottles, while AP has the best bottles Ive tried so far. That said I own like 20 AK paints and just the blanche set from AP so I can't speak for a lot of AP paints.
Anonymous No.95983885 [Report] >>95983906
>>95983794
NTA but I've had a couple issues with the new Vallejo formulation that I just didn't feel like putting up with anymore.
>they thin weirdly, the consistency feels different to acrylics I've used so far
>seperate really easily
>brighter colors like skin tones end up chalky way easier than other brands I've used
>clogged my airbrush way more often than other paints for some reason, despite using Vallejos own thinner and flow improver
>before I've learned how to manage it I got bubbles on the surface of 2 models cause I didn't notice them in time
Some shades are fantastic and the ultramatte finish is nice as well though, I'll admit that.
>>95983870
>AK has awful quality dropper bottles
I find them the most comfortable to use between Vallejo, TTC, AP and amazon/chink droppers, not sure what's your issue with them
Anonymous No.95983887 [Report] >>95983906
>>95983870
>worst of all AK has awful quality dropper bottles, while AP has the best bottles Ive tried so far.
Anon when was the last time you've tried AK? Because the previous gen AK literally had the SAME bottles as current gen AP, and gen 3 AK bottles are vastly superior; the material is firmer, the caps aren't prone to cracking like AP, and the bottles do not clog as easily.

Btw AP bottles are not really AP bottles; they are your basic cheapest chinesium bottles you can buy in bulk. I know, because I've been using them to re-bottle Citadel paints before I switched to GSW bottles instead (which are better). Funnily enough, the Blanche set droppers are slightly improved; AP switched to a bit firmer bottles than with their regular paints. Still nowhere near good as AK bottles.

What a weird thing to say, honestly.
Anonymous No.95983893 [Report]
>>95983837
>sure, your current one is still okay but you have lingering feeling that you could do better.
unless you are travelling around the globe to compete in painting competitions there is effectively zero reason to be concerned about this. We're painting toy soldiers. Sure one paint from one manufacturer have better coverage than the other, but then just buy the other bottle for 3 bucks and toss the one you don't like using anymore.
Anonymous No.95983901 [Report] >>95983921
>>95983870
>there are several mediocre AK paints
Such as? I have about 50 AP paints and similar number of AK paints, and I have yet to find a single AK paint that's worse than it's AP counterpart.
Anonymous No.95983906 [Report] >>95983910 >>95983918 >>95983930 >>95983957
>>95983885
>>95983887
I'm using ak 3rd gen paints, 3 of the bottles split at the beak, 90% of them have the cap constantly filled with paint.
Anonymous No.95983910 [Report]
>>95983906
Weird. Especially the latter issue.
Anonymous No.95983918 [Report]
>>95983906
Never had either of these issues and I have like 40 of their paints I use regularly, weird.
Anonymous No.95983921 [Report] >>95983930
>>95983901
Their oranges and their whites. The only AP white I have for comparison is the ivory from the blanche set which is also awful, but in a different way.

The best whites overall I've tried so far are TTC.
Anonymous No.95983930 [Report] >>95983996
>>95983906
>>95983921
Also I'd like to add that AK are the main line of paints I buy these days unless I need something specific from a certain brand, so it's not like I wouldn't recommend them, quite the opposite. But they aren't flawless, no line of paints is, and in my limited experience AP (again, just the blanche set) is not vastly inferior quality wise.
Anonymous No.95983957 [Report]
>>95983906
I had this "spit at the beak" with pretty much every brand so far. It can easily happen if there is drying paint in the tip and does not flow down fast enough before it gets too dry, and then the plastic will break.
Anonymous No.95983996 [Report] >>95984060
>>95983930
>But they aren't flawless, no line of paints is, and in my limited experience AP (again, just the blanche set) is not vastly inferior quality wise.

I think that most people posting in here (including me) are far from able to even notice how exactly some paints are slightly better than others.
Anonymous No.95984001 [Report]
>>95983827
Love these little foreskin guys
Anonymous No.95984060 [Report] >>95984109
>>95983996
AP and VGC used to be dog shit a just few years ago, ask anybody.
Anonymous No.95984088 [Report] >>95984117 >>95984485
Anyone here used Speedpaint Pens? I found them on Deep Cut Studio site and assume they're just brush pens filled with AP Speedpaints (so most likely overpriced garbage), but I'm curious.
Anonymous No.95984109 [Report] >>95984160
>>95984060
And now they are not and provide a perfectly fine alternative to any citadel paint.
Anonymous No.95984117 [Report]
>>95984088
No, and i would never buy them, but you can buy pens to fill in your own inks and paints in any artstore (or amazon, or aliexpress). Fill in your speed paint and test it for probably 15% of the DCS price.
Anonymous No.95984160 [Report] >>95984236
>>95984109
>kneejerk reaction shitting on Citadel
You're not wrong, but fuck you anyway.
Anonymous No.95984171 [Report] >>95984294 >>95985528
Speaking of the frostgrave cultists, I don't think I ever posted my full warband that I did (and still haven't based). There's still a couple in there with bits I need to finish up, mainly the vampire. I didn't enjoy the direction I took with him and just sort of stopped painting him.
Anonymous No.95984200 [Report] >>95986096
>>95982081
>>95982120
If you aren't going to paint the eyes then put a tiny drop of wash in to darken them, it will make the faces pop a little more for very little effort.
Anonymous No.95984214 [Report]
>>95982569
Never seen that type, good shit they add a nice splash of color to the minis without taking away.
Anonymous No.95984236 [Report] >>95984352
>>95984160
One of the most common questions here and in pretty much any place where miniature paints are mentioned is "is xy an alternative to my GW paints".
And in 2025, the answer to pretty much every single brand out there is "yes". They are all interchangeable and no beginner will ever notice any slight differences.
Anonymous No.95984294 [Report] >>95984332
>>95984171
Love em, crossbow guy definitely hums to himself while going about his day.
Anonymous No.95984332 [Report]
>>95984294
Yeah that kit has so much character. I'll be including bits of them in kitbashes for years I think. I ended up buying a bunch of the frostgrave kits and one stargrave one purely just to have around for kitbashing or using in other games. They're just generic enough that you can use them in anything, but they still look great when you paint them. The cone heads are so easy to make look great with their design as well.
Anonymous No.95984352 [Report] >>95984365
>>95984236
It's a silly question to begin with, some AP paints are good, some Citadel paints are bad and vice versa. You don't need to marry a brand.
Anonymous No.95984365 [Report]
>>95984352
I think most people want alternatives because they get into the hobby through warhammer and eventually realise that they don't need to pay an arm and a leg for paints and start looking around for alternatives. The best feeling is when you realise you don't even need to buy more paints because you can just mix the ones you already have.
Anonymous No.95984384 [Report] >>95984438 >>95984468
Citadel paints are only bad if you care about pots and prices more than about the paint itself (except Corax White, fuck that)
Anonymous No.95984438 [Report]
>>95984384
True, but at the same time, if you ignore pot and price, there is not really a reason to prefer them over other brands either.
If you have them already, they are perfectly fine. But why would you get them in the first place?
Anonymous No.95984468 [Report] >>95984557
>>95984384
>Citadel paints are only bad if you care about two out of the three most important things about paint
Seriously though, Citadel paints are okay, but why would I use them if I can just use AK which is cheaper and does everything about the same or better?
Anonymous No.95984485 [Report]
>>95984088

I tried them at a convention. They work okayish but I probably wouldn't buy any for myself. They definitely are aimed at kids and board game players and that type of people. Trying to make the ceiling for painting lower and less intimidating than using a brush. On paper it seems like a good strategy but no idea how well they are selling, definitely bunch of brands have released some kind of painting pens recently though.
Anonymous No.95984557 [Report]
>>95984468
>pot and price
>important in any way
Anonymous No.95984587 [Report] >>95984676
>>95977073
Those rust effects look so delicate, did you use an enamel wash for it?
Anonymous No.95984676 [Report] >>95984732 >>95988605
>>95984587
Naw, it's just two layers of acrylic washes. AP Sepia and then slightly thinner layer of AP Grimdark Shadow on top of it. Then, when still wet, clean up any excess/shape the streak with a clean, slightly wet brush. It's a bit finicky, but it can be done.

Picrel (wip) is oils. It's about ten times easier and faster than with acrylics, imo.

What I did found fairly interesting, is that using acrylics for streaks/rust fits more with the typical Citadel way of painting things, while using oils/enamels produces a lot more realistic, grimy, well-worn look. Or maybe that's just my bias.
Anonymous No.95984732 [Report] >>95984936 >>95985177
>>95984676
Looks lovely. I think yours is the first Dunerider i've ever seen anyone build and paint here on 4chan.
Anonymous No.95984936 [Report] >>95985195
>>95984732
Thank you, anon. And you are correct, Duneriders seem to be pretty rare for some reason.
Anonymous No.95985177 [Report] >>95985195
>>95984732
I also paint admech but I'm not really big on that model so I'll probably be skipping it
Anonymous No.95985195 [Report] >>95985442
>>95984936
>>95985177
I think GWs webstore pictures do the model no favours. 0HHJG
Anonymous No.95985413 [Report]
>>95981500
Nice turtle shell. I would hit the eyes (with a yellow if you need any to be lazy/have it be monsterous)
Anonymous No.95985422 [Report]
>>95981551
Thank you! I really like the peppercorns as cabbages, and I think I'm going to use some as a giant tick swarm: the veins really sell it
Anonymous No.95985441 [Report] >>95986967
>>95982081
Good fall/earthy color scheme, but if you want some contrast, blue warpaint would be nice
Anonymous No.95985442 [Report] >>95985471 >>95985790
>>95985195
GW can't paint vehicles, it is known.
Then again, I think they should just ditch their eavy metal meme altogether.
Anonymous No.95985471 [Report] >>95985483 >>95985527
>>95985442
They paint that way to show off all the sculpts details, how many times do we need to go through this
Anonymous No.95985483 [Report]
>>95985471
They should hide a couple AdMech miniatures tbdesu.
Anonymous No.95985527 [Report] >>95985713 >>95985763 >>95985942 >>95998361
>>95985471
That's a stupid reasoning and you should be ashamed for even uttering it. Not only you can do that with pretty much any other paint style, it also does a massive fucking disservice to the setting. Nearly every single Citadel paintjob on the website looks either like a toy or something from an animated movie. I mean, compare BTanon's Helbrecht with the one on their website. Literally Chad vs Virgin meme. Or Screamers that are in the store with Grimdark's Compendium Screamers.
Anonymous No.95985528 [Report] >>95988668
>>95984171
Where are the ghouls from?
Anonymous No.95985553 [Report]
>>95982732
How about some cheese?
Anonymous No.95985713 [Report] >>95985746
>>95985527
Yeah I'm sure a company that sells the most miniatures in the entire world did not do their homework on how should they paint their minis to maximize sales.
>looks either like a toy
That's because that's literally what they are, I don't understand why you're getting so defensive
Anonymous No.95985742 [Report]
>>95982705
I wish I could claim all the credit, but someone in here suggested jade for the spear. It was a damn solid suggestion
Anonymous No.95985746 [Report] >>95985775
>>95985713
>everything is about muh sales
What an awful take.
>your grimdark scifi models SHOULD look like toys!
Just as awful.
Anonymous No.95985763 [Report]
>>95985527
i think Anon has a point. For them, its toys, and they want to sell toys.
But at the same time, it would not hurt to show each model in one or two alternative painting styles as well. They kinda do with their golden demon galleries or those community posts that show the different contrast paint schemes, but they should do that in the pics gallery below each model.
Anonymous No.95985775 [Report] >>95985803 >>95985907
>>95985746
Yes Anon GW is a company that is looking to sell as much of their toys as possible, you can try to ignore that but it won't change the reality.
>grimdark sci fi models
Just say that you like grimshart style and leave it at, not everybody has to like it in case you have trouble understanding that. I was just explaining why GW paints the way they do, nothing more.
Anonymous No.95985790 [Report]
>>95985442
The issue is not the paint, its mainly the price.
It costs way more than a chimera or rhino, but is pretty much the same size. And while the kit is newer and has more parts and better fit, so are the Deimos Rhino and the Solar Auxilia Russ, and they are cheaper. But the Dunerider is just a small transport "tank", and not some mid-sized vehicle like a Malcador.
Anonymous No.95985803 [Report] >>95985815
>>95985775
>I was just explaining why GW paints the way they do, nothing more.

What is interesting about this is that while i believe that they spend a lot of trial and error to find out which painting style works best.. i wonder why next to no other company tries to copy that style of painting. Sure, they cant name it eavy metal and all, but why dont companies like Mantic or WGA or Warlord or any of the other "big"-ish miniature companies just adapt this same techniques.
Anonymous No.95985815 [Report]
>>95985803
I'd assume it's because their minis are not as overloaded with detail as GW ones so eavy metal would not be as effective.
Anonymous No.95985907 [Report] >>95985988
>>95985775
>GW is a company that is looking to sell as much of their toys as possible
>by painting their toys to look worse than minis painted by some anon on anonymous mongolian fur hat weaving forum
GW is your typical rigid corporate that could do a whole host of things to actually improve their profits, but they won't, because they prefer their slow and steady margins instead of trying something slightly new.
Anonymous No.95985942 [Report] >>95985958
>>95985527
Grimdark Compendium is the other side of the hobby coin, looking to shill overpriced washes for muh grimBRAP style.
Anonymous No.95985958 [Report]
>>95985942
I don't really care, I just like his Screamers. That look like actual demons, and not some shitty vector clipart.
Anonymous No.95985988 [Report] >>95986045 >>95986457
>>95985907
>by painting their toys to look worse than minis painted by some anon
That's literally just your opinion though. Clean style of painting has been their signature since, like, forever? Shitload of people find it appealing whether you like it or not.
>they prefer their slow and steady margins instead of trying something slightly new
Yes because it's the safest road to take instead of risking a completely different style that might not be liked by some of their customers.
Anonymous No.95986045 [Report] >>95991762
>>95985988
>Shitload of people find it appealing whether you like it or not.
Shitload of people also listen to Nicky Minaj.
Anonymous No.95986096 [Report] >>95986126 >>95986208 >>95986396
>>95984200
I'll be painting the eyes black, like kerillian. I just really like that look. comes last once I'm happy with the rest of the face though. shows up best on my test model
Anonymous No.95986126 [Report] >>95986967
>>95986096
Put a little gloss varnish on it
Anonymous No.95986208 [Report]
>>95986096
cool
Anonymous No.95986396 [Report]
>>95986096
I like this look a lot. I want to do this on my elves and daemonetes.
Anonymous No.95986445 [Report]
>>95975943
Looking good Chocolate Nids will be kick ass since it's a neutral scheme, colorful details will really pop.
Wish I did this too but I was too naive and optimistic with my first minis, now I'm stuck with a pretty time consuming scheme, which makes it even harder to strip.
Anonymous No.95986457 [Report]
>>95985988
Fund your own company, and paint the minis the way you think would sell best. Let GW do it how they want to do it. Its not like they force you to buy their stuff.
Anonymous No.95986493 [Report] >>95986544 >>95986709
>If you don't like it here, why don't you just go found your own country huh?
>LEAVE THE POOR INNOCENT MULTI-MILLION DOLLAR COMPANY ALONE!
This one is beyond saving, keep your (You)s.
Anonymous No.95986544 [Report] >>95986556
>>95986493
You're literally sperging out over GW not painting their minis the way you like, chill out bud
Anonymous No.95986556 [Report] >>95986686
>>95986544
NTA, but it's more:
>sperging about GW painting their minis in objectively shitty way and quality
Go look at those incredible Catachans, for example.
Anonymous No.95986606 [Report] >>95989470 >>95992402
Started working on these myrmidons today, so far the colours look too muted. Thought of painting the volkite grills brighter gold and make their eyes white. What would you suggest for the cables?
Anonymous No.95986686 [Report] >>95986697 >>95986698
>>95986556
>Catachans
Cherry-picking one of the outdated paintjobs in their store ain't exactly objective either. Plus I feel that putting golden demon tier paintjobs would discourage a lot of new painters. I'm not even saying it's good or anything, just explaining why I think they do it this way.
>shitty way
People shit on GWs painting all the time but I there aren't many people here that could actually pull off a high standard eavy metal paintjob.
Anonymous No.95986697 [Report]
>>95986686

I think GW studio paint jobs do a good job showing the details on the models, unlike some other studios like MANTIC GAMES, I don't get why they insist on having shitty paint jobs on their official figures.
Anonymous No.95986698 [Report] >>95986716 >>95986761
>>95986686
There are multiple people in this general who paint in a different, better-looking art style. Again, BTanon's Helbrecht vs GW Helbrecht. And that one is not even that much divorced from the eavy metal, either. It's not just the style, it's the color palette, lighting, and general atmosphere, too.
Anonymous No.95986709 [Report]
>>95986493
Retard paint your minis however you like, what is even the issue here?
Anonymous No.95986716 [Report]
>>95986698
Also, to expand; you can even keep Citadel silly color schemes, and make them look awesome. Look at Nightshift's Sicaran that casually moggs pretty much every single vehicle ever painted by GW, WHILE making it look cooler and showing all the details. He even added a lot of his own, which is another topic.
Anonymous No.95986761 [Report] >>95986782
>>95986698
yes, so what? their painters paint the same style, not only because it looks good, but also because its a learnable skill. there is no real artistry involved, that why this particular style works so well for them. No matter whom they hire, everyone can learn to edge highlight, so it does not matter who paints for them. Its also reasonably fast, compared to stuff like Grimderp Compendium does, with 24-48 hours drying time in between steps for his weird superglue technique.

For GW something like "art" does not work, because they need to be able to reproduce the same stuff in 10, 15 and 20 years, with whomever will be working for them at that point.
Anonymous No.95986782 [Report] >>95989940
>>95986761
The funny part about your post is that the classic scale modeller way of painting shit is faster and simpler than eavy metal twenty gorillion edge highlight layers & glazing.
Anonymous No.95986950 [Report] >>95987116
You know while I think this whole argument was pretty much pointless it's still very nice that we were able to keep it fairly civil.
Anonymous No.95986967 [Report]
>>95986126
good idea, will try it out when I get back 2 the desk
>>95985441
I've got exactly this planned for my heroes and elites, plus pale glowy cyan and jade spites. glad to know my brain plans correctly
Anonymous No.95986972 [Report] >>95990279
Working on my land raider, I re-worked the hurricane bolter sponsons a bit to be tighter to the body and stick out less to be more in-line with the lascannon arrays. Be default all 6 boltguns sit on the same side of the mounting axel, and the sensor that I put on the top of the axel is the only thing meant to be opposite the guns. I dont really like the way this looks, in fact the original metal hurricane bolters used to have huge ammo boxes on the other side, I dont know why they changed this detail. I had to remove a small portion of the front butresses to allow the weapons to aim fully forward.

I also drilled out the original pegs the weapons mount to and replaced them with a through rod, this way the guns are linked together rather than being independent, so they aim up and down together. All in all super happy with them. But man this kit is old. It took about 2 and a half hours of cleanup and assembly per sponson, only have one hurricane bolter left to go.
Anonymous No.95987030 [Report] >>95988445
Almost done I’m just too tired now. Habe to brush up the metal, add tufts and paint the base rim on bigguy4u
Otherwise very chuffed with the red armor and green skin.
Anonymous No.95987116 [Report] >>95987158
>>95986950
I will never tell people I use 4chan
But if I had to, I'd say I just use it for WIP. Lower risk for slurs, just a bunch of autists arguing over paint
Anonymous No.95987158 [Report] >>95987196
>>95987116
>I will never tell people I use 4chan
There are a handful of us who know each other In Real Life. So far, I have found all of them to be civil, but I am certain we're not the only ones.
Anonymous No.95987196 [Report] >>95989901
>>95987158
>In Real Life
never heard of it
Anonymous No.95987296 [Report] >>95987443 >>95987540
test base as I've got a bunch to do and was feeling a little stuck on how best to approach. wont end up being used just want to test some of the tuft materials and see how they painted up and if enamel primer would melt anything
Anonymous No.95987443 [Report] >>95987757
>>95987296
Looks great but to much green. Just blends together. Needs dome browns, oranges or yellows to break it up.
Anonymous No.95987457 [Report] >>95987520
Is the vehicle challenge ending today?
I had to take a trip, now I'm way behind the curve.

Not going to be very many WIP pictures to get this one done in time.
Anonymous No.95987520 [Report]
>>95987457
wrong thread
Anonymous No.95987540 [Report]
>>95987296
It's lovely, I don't mind the monochrome aspect if the minis standing on it will contrast well with it
Anonymous No.95987757 [Report] >>95987855 >>95987857
>>95987443
bases should blend together. it's just something for the interesting model to stand on. busy shit that draws the eye isn't the right objective.
Anonymous No.95987855 [Report] >>95987876
>>95987757
nta
You're right, but that base has a shit ton of texture that doesn't show itself. It just needs some different shades of green.
Anonymous No.95987857 [Report] >>95987911
>>95987757
I dunno, a really half assed base can bring down the entire model
Anonymous No.95987876 [Report]
>>95987855
>that base has a shit ton of texture that doesn't show itself
good
Anonymous No.95987911 [Report] >>95987983
>>95987857
Post an example
Anonymous No.95987983 [Report]
>>95987911
I don't save images of bad models, think of that diarrhea planet meme. Slapping a texture paste without even washing and drybrushing it will draw the eye and make the entire model feel unfinished.
Anonymous No.95988445 [Report] >>95988476 >>95990954
>>95987030
What did you use for that green skin, little homie?
Anonymous No.95988476 [Report] >>95988676
>>95988445
You're not black.
Anonymous No.95988605 [Report] >>95990660
>>95984676
gorgeous! tell me about how you achieved the texturing
Anonymous No.95988668 [Report]
>>95985528
Nocturnal Mortum warband from Punga Miniatures. They're 3D prints.
Anonymous No.95988676 [Report]
>>95988476
Yet
Anonymous No.95989048 [Report] >>95989206 >>95989489 >>95989498
Anybody ever paint stripped 3d printed models with 99 percent isopropyl alcohol?
I plan to do that to some test bases that resemble the necromunda bases to practice washes over certain paints or even oil washes.
And to see if proacryl metallics reactivate if armypainter washes with speed paint medium is brushed over them. I’m like to believe that it was an overly stiff brush but Murphy’s law would say otherwise when preparing for these things.
Anonymous No.95989206 [Report] >>95989384
>>95989048
That's stupid, just print a bunch of bases, photo cataloging is worthless as colors aren't true.
Anonymous No.95989384 [Report] >>95989397
>>95989206
The printed bases are from a friend. Not me.
And I’m still rattled that when applying a wash the dark silver metallic got taken off but the ak paints were just fine.
Anonymous No.95989397 [Report]
>>95989384
In retrospect maybe I was too rough with the larger orange bristle cheap brush but I’m still worried maybe it was me though.
Anonymous No.95989426 [Report]
If I declare a charge with 2 units into the same unit
Do I need to maximize the first one to move and potentially prevent the 2nd from making it in?
Anonymous No.95989470 [Report]
>>95986606
I have nothing constructive to say
just wanted to compliment your work so far.
Anonymous No.95989489 [Report]
>>95989048
I just got done stripping a few resin printed test figures/ fuck ups a few nights ago. 99 percent ISA worked good, brushed em a little. Reprimed them and got a few coats on them now. Cant even tell they were stripped at all.
Anonymous No.95989498 [Report] >>95989881
>>95989048
>And to see if proacryl metallics reactivate if armypainter washes with speed paint medium is brushed over them
Bros can anyone confirm this is true? I feel like I wasted money buying PA metallics. Light bronze looked wonderful to me.
Anonymous No.95989607 [Report]
First of my empire infantry done. Still figuring out the basing, I think the grass maybe looks a little too green but maybe that's fitting for reikland. Looking forward to doing the bases on my cavalry and griffon which should have a lot more room to play with.
Anonymous No.95989780 [Report]
>>95982780
Only really needed to cut the handles off the weapons
Anonymous No.95989794 [Report]
>>95981199
yeah glazes ain't good for large flat surfaces
Anonymous No.95989881 [Report] >>95989886 >>95993283
>>95989498
>>And to see if proacryl metallics reactivate if armypainter washes with speed paint medium is brushed over them
>Bros can anyone confirm this is true? I feel like I wasted money buying PA metallics. Light bronze looked wonderful to me.

I cant vouch for speed paint, but Citadel Contrasts and AP washes dont reactivate the Metallic. I like them so far.

Matter of fact heres what Im working on.
Black Primer, Gunmetal (AP Metallic) base coat, Basilicum Grey contrast paint (2 thin coats), highlighted with more Gunmetal, then a layer of snakebite leather on top of those highlights. Metallics used havent reactivated at any point. They've dried very quickly. I can do the contrast almost right after the metallic coat is applied. Still working on keeping my shit steady while doing the highlights. Its amazing how obvious even small mistakes can really stand out. Also dont really like how bright the bronze/gold color is. Trying to keep it grungy for IW theme.
Anonymous No.95989886 [Report]
>>95989881
But this is took dark, no highlight layer of gunmetal under the snakebite. Im thinking of having gunmetal, with a super thin layer of basilicum grey contrast, theeeen putting the snakebit on top. Im trying to split the middle between the brighter and darker versions.
Anonymous No.95989901 [Report]
>>95987196
It's full of people, unfortunately.
Anonymous No.95989940 [Report]
>>95986782
It looks a million time worse tho
Anonymous No.95990279 [Report]
>>95975396 (OP)
Does the heat discoloration on a flamer appear just on the heatshield, or should I do something about the tip of the barrel as well?

>>95986972
Oh that's great, I'm making a land raider right now too and I wish I did something about that, the guns are so far out.
Anonymous No.95990571 [Report] >>95990602 >>95990616 >>95992235
Wanting to join a crusade starting at 1000 points, picrel is my list.
Only problem is that my army is caught between 2 schemes.
Is there an obvious way I can mate them up? Or should I strip and redo something?
Anonymous No.95990602 [Report] >>95990668
>>95990571
Well the colors are pretty fucking different from each other so it'd be kinda difficult. Maybe adding some heavy weathering to make the vehicles grimier/darker would make them look less out of place?
Anonymous No.95990616 [Report] >>95990668
>>95990571
What exactly is the issue here? Tanks/Vehicles and infantry being different colours?
It might look odd from a pure wargaming perspective, but it's way more realistic.
People tend to paint the hair of their miniature matching the color of their armour and the dirt on the bases should match/contrast as well.. but in reality, infantry never wears uniforms in the same colour as the paint of their tanks. They might both be green, but it's still different. Or think about desert storm chocolate chips uniforms, and how the tanks looked like. Or Grey German uniforms in Ww2, and all sorts of camo on their vehicles.
If it bothers you too much, just say that in lore it's two regiments and the infantry is attached to the armour to provide support, because during a previous engagement the armour company lost most/all of their already limited infantry support. Infantry got attached to armour for this purpose happened all the time in RL.
Anonymous No.95990660 [Report] >>95991154
>>95988605
It's just a shittier (first time) version of Night Shift's texture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW65lwwfJqk
I very much recommend it. It's fast and simple.
Anonymous No.95990668 [Report] >>95990693 >>95990697
>>95990602
>>95990616
Yea I think the problem is tonal inconsisitency, dark and slightly more realistic colours vs cartoony bright blue tanks.
Even If I did tanks from scratch for these guys I don't know how I'd paint them. They couldn't be straight silver like the infantry, it'd look stupid.
Anonymous No.95990693 [Report] >>95990962
>>95990668
Yeah that's why I think adding some dark brown stains, rust and shit would probably help unify it all to a more "realistic" look
Anonymous No.95990697 [Report] >>95990962
>>95990668

I think adding some sand colored weathering powders or a sand colored wash could help tie them together.

Right now the tanks look like they're straight from the factory while the troops are marching through the desert.
Anonymous No.95990954 [Report] >>95990961
>>95988445
Basecoat AK Grey Green, Marine juice wash, highlights with Pale Sand mixed in
Anonymous No.95990961 [Report] >>95991028
>>95990954
>marine juice wash
I've seen this mystical concoction talked about here.
What version did you make and is it worth it?
Also you have nice orks.
Anonymous No.95990962 [Report] >>95992212
>>95990693
>>95990697
I will try that tomorrow.
Maybe I should ditch the multicolour heraldry thing too and just give them blue shields.
Anonymous No.95991028 [Report] >>95992318 >>95992356 >>95992747
>>95990961
Thanks, it's the Sonic Sledgehammer recipe though for my next batch I'll take a little extra medium. I'd say it is very worth it.
Anonymous No.95991154 [Report]
>>95990660
oh nice, thank you! looks pretty straightforward
Anonymous No.95991252 [Report] >>95991273 >>95993162
>just been messaged that one of my miniatures is in Wargames Illustrated next month

It's only a small pic but that's so cool hehe
Anonymous No.95991273 [Report] >>95993162
>>95991252
Post the mini, duh!
Anonymous No.95991352 [Report] >>95991956
Is it normal that I'm painting shit like this brute but I run out of browns to use? maybe I'm just a brainlet cause I was painting the shaft of the mace and I got serious brain-lag where I didn't know what to paint the wrappings. I know I coulda have used red or blue or yellow or even green but I wanted it to be earthy and realistic.

anyway this is my second brute, did wet blending on the skin and pants. How does it look? i'm not trying for a merit badge, just want these highlighted decently and finish my spearhead
Anonymous No.95991429 [Report] >>95998918
Been working on the dragon piece from Clank 2 tonight. It's fun. Makes me think I'd probably enjoy busts. It's nice not having to worry about every part of the mini.
Anonymous No.95991762 [Report] >>95991770
>>95986045
>Shitload of people also listen to Nicky Minaj.
Nicky objectively puts out great female hiphop, she's also got an excellent marketing.
You just keep proving yourself wrong.
Anonymous No.95991770 [Report] >>95992206
>>95991762
Fantastic bait.
Anonymous No.95991956 [Report]
>>95991352
Browns are easy to get a ton of, but you really only need a few. I like to take a general use light brown and dark brown that I'll use on a model then mix in some other colors on my palette. Maybe mix a little yellow ochre into the dark brown to get a color I'll use for a strap or belt, tiny bit of orange or red into the light brown to get a color for cloth, dark colors to make a shadow color, etc. Cloth and leather can be lots of different shades so little color shifts aren't a problem, and since they are mixed from the same base browns they will tie together.
Anonymous No.95992014 [Report] >>95992194
Come home, green man.
Anonymous No.95992194 [Report]
>>95992014
I think i've never seen some of the AoS orcs in red armor. They look amazing, and your paintjob is pretty awesome too.
Anonymous No.95992206 [Report]
>>95991770
Cope.
Anonymous No.95992212 [Report]
>>95990962
>and just give them blue shields.

That would be weird. Blue is not the heraldry colour of your tanks, its their camouflage, for whatever blue foliage or buildings there is on their planet. The tanks heraldry is red and white. So if you want to match the troops to the vehicles by their little shoulder shields, then red+white how all of them should be.
Anonymous No.95992235 [Report]
>>95990571
Paint the infantrys' armour the same blues as you've used for your vehicles. Or, for something a lot quicker that'll give you most of the effect, just repaint the helmets.
Anonymous No.95992318 [Report] >>95992356
>>95991028
>the Sonic Sledgehammer recipe
He's done about half a dozen because all the manufacturers changed their washes.
Anonymous No.95992356 [Report] >>95992474
>>95991028
>>95992318
why would you even need a recipe?
Mix together some black, brown and flesh wash and then mix that with a medium and you are good to go.
Anonymous No.95992402 [Report] >>95993194
>>95986606

The work continues, I think I'll add bright red to the axes and paint the remaining cables green.
Anonymous No.95992474 [Report]
>>95992356
Because without a recipe you might throw in an entirely unnecessary third wash.
Anonymous No.95992547 [Report] >>95992611
nibbas really be mixing acrylic washes n shi thinking it's gonna look any better instead of using an oil wash, s m h
Anonymous No.95992611 [Report] >>95992666
>>95992547
not having to deal with oils is totally worth it tho.
Anonymous No.95992666 [Report] >>95992678
>>95992611
oils are amazing thoughbeit, wish I could say the same about acr*lics
Anonymous No.95992678 [Report]
>>95992666
longer drying time and smelly cleaners make them less amazing to me. I will not mess with them if there are acrylics that just work.
Anonymous No.95992747 [Report]
>>95991028
Is it the one with reikland fleshshade, dark tone, and lahmian medium or his newest one that I think is dark tone, warm skin shade and speedpaint medium?
Anonymous No.95992783 [Report] >>95992895
>be me
>just freehand mixing white/blue/red/yellow for skin tones
>winning
Anonymous No.95992895 [Report]
>>95992783
Based and light-pilled
Anonymous No.95992921 [Report] >>95992996
layer your shadows like a man instead of using washes
Anonymous No.95992937 [Report]
"no"
Anonymous No.95992990 [Report]
Okay, another pair done. What do you think?
Anonymous No.95992996 [Report] >>95993081
Another angle. I also feel really bad about having to wear glasses during painting since last few months. I thought that I'm not old yet...

>>95992921
Sorry, I lack the skill for that.
Anonymous No.95993081 [Report]
>>95992996
It's not difficult at all, unironically give it a try. Having more control over how you paint the shadows is very satisfying. Nice dudes, btw
Anonymous No.95993162 [Report] >>95996786
>>95991252
>>95991273
Anonymous No.95993194 [Report] >>95993413
>>95992402
I don't like the blue cables but otherwise these guys look great so far, making me excited to paint some.
Anonymous No.95993268 [Report] >>95993289 >>95993342 >>95993609
what the fuck happened with him?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Mm6xiVKnDI
Anonymous No.95993283 [Report]
>>95989881
Alright it must have been me applying a wash too early or being too rough with a stiff brush.
Thanks anon.
Anonymous No.95993289 [Report]
>>95993268
I dunno ask in the comments like the faggot that you are
Anonymous No.95993342 [Report] >>95993649 >>95993652
>>95993268
>what the fuck happened with him?
the grand jury wouldn't indict due to insufficient evidence (they will never find the bodies)
Anonymous No.95993413 [Report] >>95993868
>>95993194

Is it because the colour blends to purple too much? I was planning on highlighting them later.
Anonymous No.95993609 [Report] >>95993649 >>95993652
>>95993268

Can't wait for the day when they finally dig up the bodies of his victims
Anonymous No.95993649 [Report]
>>95993342
>>95993609
QRD? Just watching this video I can believe this guy has buried bodies, but I'm not sure if you're joking are not.
Anonymous No.95993652 [Report] >>95993675
>>95993342
>>95993609
He look more like a pedophile than a murderer to me tbdesu
Anonymous No.95993675 [Report]
>>95993652
The end of the video where he goes on about pride supports this.
Anonymous No.95993691 [Report]
>muh etubers
>muh ecelebs
>muh he gives me ick, girl
Shut the fuck up, you effeminate, abhorrent queers.
Anonymous No.95993839 [Report]
>wanna speedpaint (the airbrush + oil wash way) a ratlings kill team as a somewhat relaxing break from my regular painting process before I go into more labor intensive projects
>get stuck in decision paralysis trying to figure out a nice color scheme that will be easy in this workflow instead of painting
Fuck me, I couldve probably already been at least halfway through the project at this point instead of still trying to figure out where to start
Anonymous No.95993868 [Report]
>>95993413
Yeah i think it just looks bad with the dark purple, and for whatever reason doesn't scan as an appropriate cable color for 30k in my mind. Absolutely a taste thing though, you are painting them well!
Anonymous No.95994015 [Report] >>95994039 >>95994337
It's not been a productive day
Anonymous No.95994039 [Report] >>95994144
>>95994015
I painted the rims of around 20 miniatures, and put snow on the bases of some Nids, and painted the lenses of my Tau Pathfinders.
Could be worse, but its 33°C today, and thats way too hot to do anything really.
Anonymous No.95994144 [Report]
>>95994039
Leave some pussy for the rest of us
Anonymous No.95994335 [Report] >>95994410 >>95994437 >>95994468 >>95995067 >>95996611
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to paint sickly, diseased flesh like pic related. I usually do bugmans glow-> Cadian flesh-> Reikland fleshshade, but I want my Cawdor to look significantly less healthy than other characters. If you have a simple recipe for painting mottled homeless junkies, I'm all ears.

Miniatures are currently primed with Vallejo ghost grey, if that helps.
Anonymous No.95994337 [Report]
>>95994015
I put some basecoats on a mini, could've been worse I guess
Anonymous No.95994410 [Report] >>95996180
>>95994335
You could add thinned down texture paste or typhus corrosion for sone gnarly texture on the skin.
Anonymous No.95994437 [Report] >>95996180
>>95994335
pic related translated directly would be a normal caucasian flesh tone paintjob with some sores (achievable with a brownish tan and some red wash). maybe for the flesh base in a cadian tone and if you're sticking with GW go kislev flesh with some pallid wych highlights. the reikland fleshshade will probably still work well, maybe a little more sparing.
Anonymous No.95994468 [Report] >>95994513 >>95995257 >>95996180 >>95996522 >>95996611
>>95994335
>nails through the bayonet
>no ejection port
>only front sights
That art is too retarded even for W40k.
Anonymous No.95994513 [Report]
>>95994468
Seems perfectly in keeping with the retarded sewer goblin vibes Cawdor give off
Anonymous No.95995067 [Report] >>95996180
>>95994335
Mix some green in with the bugman's glow to give it a sickly undertone. You may need to experiment with the ratios but I find 3 parts bugman 1 part castellan is alright.
Anonymous No.95995257 [Report] >>95996214
>>95994468
is it even official art?
Anonymous No.95995630 [Report]
Does it matter what brand of liquid mask I get? Just thinking of getting the biggest and cheapest bottle
Anonymous No.95996180 [Report] >>95996830
>>95994410
>>95994437
>>95995067

Thanks for the advice, lads. I'll try all your suggestions on my trash boys, see how ugly they get.

>>95994468

For trash rummaging, religious fruitcake Hive scum, it seems believable.
Anonymous No.95996214 [Report]
>>95995257
It is and I kind of hope it's AI
Anonymous No.95996522 [Report] >>95996611
>>95994468
He's the equivalent of a modern day meth bandit. Checks out to me. Although I don't really get the logistics of how he hammered nails through what looks like a solid piece of steel. Especially if it was already attached to the gun with the positions of nails being under the barrel.
Anonymous No.95996611 [Report] >>95996641
>>95994335
>>95994468
>>95996522
>Nails through solid steel.
Orks did this, simple as.
Anonymous No.95996638 [Report]
>>95982816
Look solid anon, nicely done. As for the primer, I couldn't tell you. Maybe try a brush-on primer, if the rattlecan isn't working out?
Anonymous No.95996641 [Report]
>>95996611
But orkz are BUILT DIFFERENT. Better not to question what they do.
Anonymous No.95996726 [Report] >>95996731 >>95996864 >>95996887
How should I base these guys
Anonymous No.95996731 [Report] >>95996789 >>95996864 >>95997015
>>95996726 (me)
Also any advice before calling them done?
Anonymous No.95996786 [Report]
>>95993162
I believe anon meant a pic of the mini you take yourself where we can actually see it.
Anonymous No.95996789 [Report]
>>95996731
You're beyond advice, not only are you buying GW product, you're buying primarishit.
Anonymous No.95996830 [Report] >>95996843
>>95996180
Here‘s an example for typhus corrosion and sepia wash for skin
Anonymous No.95996843 [Report]
>>95996830
Shit, that worked a lot better than I expected. Do a wash of a purpleish red then hit the high points with an orange/yellow to make them look like inflamed pustules.
Anonymous No.95996864 [Report] >>95996879
>>95996726
>How should I base these guys
Paint the base rims with Steel Legion Drab.
Cover the bases with Armageddon Dust Technical Paint
Wash the Armageddon Dust after it dries with Agrax Earthshade
Drybrush the textured parts of the base heavily with Zandri Dust or Tallarn Sand

[Optional] Apply final light drybrush of Dawnstone or a similar colour

[Optional] If you have the box of Skulls, paint one of the skulls and put it on one guy's base

[Optional] Add static grass tufts as desired

>>95996731
>Also any advice before calling them done?
If you have a pot of White Scar, throw it in the trash before you're tempted to use it for anything
Scribble tiny lines on the purity seals with a Micron pen (or the equivalent) before you hit it with spray varnish
Decide what squad these ladz are, and paint the proper insignia on the right poleyn... or use waterslide transfers if you have 'em
Add company markings to the right pauldron
Add chapter markings to the left pauldron

Decide if you care that Blood Angel assault squads normally paint their helmets yellow

Also, the fellow on the left has unpainted tubes hooked up to his helmet. The other two ladz have theirs painted silver.
Anonymous No.95996879 [Report] >>95997474
>>95996864
>Paint the base rims with Steel Legion Drab.
>Cover the bases with Armageddon Dust Technical Paint
>Wash the Armageddon Dust after it dries with Agrax Earthshade
>Drybrush the textured parts of the base heavily with Zandri Dust or Tallarn Sand
>[Optional] Apply final light drybrush of Dawnstone or a similar colour
>[Optional] If you have the box of Skulls, paint one of the skulls and put it on one guy's base
>[Optional] Add static grass tufts as desired
This is what that looks like.
Anonymous No.95996887 [Report]
>>95996726
Go for a color that is markedly different but has a good balance with the red.
Quick formula would be
1)base them with something gritty, and paint with mechanicus grey
2) Once that's dried apply nuln oil
3) dry brush liberally with a lighter brown like xv88.
4) to finish is, dry brush with a very light yellow such as dorn yellow.
It will add a lot of interest to the rock while at the same time complementing the red.
Anonymous No.95997015 [Report]
>>95996731
looks pretty bland, needs shading and more color variation on armor, at least pauldron trim
Anonymous No.95997474 [Report]
>>95996879
That is some THICC paint
Anonymous No.95997610 [Report] >>95997632
Yellow is a mother fucker. I think I can do better, but Im still happy with how the chevron turned out. Especially since my first couple fuckin sucked. Still not looking forward to doing another 20 of the things. A brownish wash over the inner part of the pauldron would make the yellow look a bit more worn and not so factory fresh, no?
Anonymous No.95997632 [Report] >>95997644
>>95997610
I'm guessing you're priming them in metallic color
Anonymous No.95997644 [Report] >>95997836
>>95997632
>Metallic Prime
On everything but the chevron pauldron yes. I left that black primer. Im thinking to get some white primer for the next batch. That should make the yellow look better right?
Anonymous No.95997749 [Report] >>95997759
I 3d printed some cobblestone roads for a game and I was wondering would it be dumb to try and give them a wash if I didn't do primer on them? They printed the perfect color and I don't want to buy a primer this color or do it and paint the entire thing
Anonymous No.95997759 [Report] >>95997919
>>95997749
You printed them. You have an infinite amount of them. Just try it and see what happens.
Anonymous No.95997836 [Report]
>>95997644
How about yellow primer
Anonymous No.95997919 [Report] >>95997947 >>95998961
>>95997759
Resin isn't free you know.
Anonymous No.95997947 [Report] >>95997995
>>95997919

Good point. Only try to apply paint to free things from here on out.
Anonymous No.95997995 [Report] >>95998419
>>95997947
That wasn't my point you dingus, and you know it. Making new cobblestone roads costs money, so he doesn't have an infinite amount of them to experiment with, just like he doesn't have an infinite supply of Abbaddon the Despoilers or Morathi-Khaine and The Shadow Queens.
Anonymous No.95998066 [Report] >>95998072 >>95999144
>>95975396 (OP)
Just finished this today.
Wanted to paint my first diorama, I always painted Warhammer 40k kill teams, blood bowl and nothing more, I wanted to expand, my next project will be a blood bowl pitch
Anonymous No.95998072 [Report] >>95998216
>>95998066
Did you use a black wash over yellow?
Anonymous No.95998216 [Report]
>>95998072
Yes I know it doesnt look good but I wanted to give a gritty and dirty look like the comic, I tought Agrax was shit, so I put lamihan with nuln. I admit i'm a poor hammer even, I don't have a lot of colors and i usually print the sheets of paper here in the office after work like tokes and shit and i play with friends and my brother.
Anonymous No.95998361 [Report] >>95998370
>>95985527
>I mean, compare BTanon's Helbrecht with the one on their website. Literally Chad vs Virgin meme. Or Screamers that are in the store with Grimdark's Compendium Screamers.
That grimderp style looks like shit without instagram lighting.
Anonymous No.95998370 [Report] >>95998394
>>95998361
Hilariously stupid thing to say, considering the amount of post-production Citadel minis undergo.
Anonymous No.95998394 [Report] >>95998402 >>95998431
>>95998370
GW box/store pictures are always on a white background with neutral lighting. They definitely fiddle a bit with brightness, contrast etc and touch it up a little but it 100% isn't as much setup as instagram people do. The entire schtik of GWs painting method is making the minis look good and readable from every angle.
Anonymous No.95998402 [Report] >>95998431 >>95998434
>>95998394
I have no idea about some rando's instagram faggotry, but what you claim about GW stuff is patently false. There is a LOT of post-work done on most of these models. You can easily half-ass the mini, and then just smooth it all out in PS in a few minutes.
t. graphic designer.
Anonymous No.95998419 [Report] >>96001257
>>95997995

Point still stands. Guy kinda likes the way the terrain currently looks,also wants to try painting it, but is also worried painting it would not have the desired effect. The only two things he can do are 1) try it out and 2) do nothing.

The argument that resin costs money doesn't mean much, since everything in the hobby costs money; the paint, the minis, the brushes,etc. There will never be a point in this hobby where "paint more or don't, on a thing that costs money" will not be the situation.
Anonymous No.95998431 [Report] >>95998440
>>95998394
>>95998402
you now remember photoshop anon and his hijinks
Anonymous No.95998434 [Report] >>95998539
>>95998402
You're really smart, anon. Have you ever considered ALL colourful minis are easier to see no matter the lighting, but grimbrap looks like dog shit on the table UNLESS it is lit like some tart's instagram?
Anonymous No.95998440 [Report] >>95998560
>>95998431
>photoshop anon
qrd?
Anonymous No.95998539 [Report] >>95998807
>>95998434
Anon, if you push that goalpost a bit further, it will be in a different time-zone.
Anonymous No.95998560 [Report] >>95998601
>>95998440
resident camera-autist who shares some helpful photo taking tips but might as well save some time and color his models straight in the program because after 50 layers of shoopdawhoop they stray pretty far from /wip/
Anonymous No.95998601 [Report] >>95998640
>>95998560
ohhh right you're the retard that thinks adjusting brightness and contrast is some advanced image editing, should've realised
Anonymous No.95998640 [Report]
>>95998601
forgot to mention he is pretty thin skinned about it as well
didnt mean to siderail the thread but yeah
Anonymous No.95998683 [Report] >>95998694 >>95998715 >>95998718
I'd like to get into resin water effects, which ones do you guys recommend to buy? I don't want to pay the "this is for REAL MINIATURE GAMERS" 200% markup.
Anonymous No.95998694 [Report]
>>95998683
just buy cheapest UV resin you can find
Anonymous No.95998715 [Report]
>>95998683
the GSW " "I cant believe it's not water!" effect for REAL MINIATURE GAMERS" only for 19.99 - buy one today and get a second bottle for free!
Anonymous No.95998718 [Report]
>>95998683
regular 2 part epoxy all the way, little to no hassle and guaranteed results with hardware store markup
Anonymous No.95998761 [Report]
I'm so glad I upgraded from a chinesium airbrush to a proper one holy shit.
Anonymous No.95998807 [Report] >>95998822
>>95998539
Nice cope but it wasn't me who mentioned box pictures. The point still stands, GW's style looks at least decent to good no matter where you put it, with or without photoshop. Grimbrap style only looks good under special lighting.
Anonymous No.95998822 [Report] >>95999199
>>95998807
Yes anon, you have thoroughly devastated that strawman. How will even the random grimderp instagram eceleb recover?
Anonymous No.95998918 [Report] >>95998932
>>95991429
A bit more progress with this.
Anonymous No.95998932 [Report] >>95998945
>>95998918
Looks good, the picture could use stronger light tho
Anonymous No.95998945 [Report] >>95998956
>>95998932
You sure about that?
Anonymous No.95998956 [Report] >>95998975
>>95998945
No, just a feeling I had
Anonymous No.95998961 [Report]
>>95997919
>resin aint free
Anonymous No.95998975 [Report] >>95999018
>>95998956
I did it anyway just to make sure you understand what you're asking.
Anonymous No.95999018 [Report]
>>95998975
Anonymous No.95999042 [Report] >>95999049 >>95999080
Ideas on how make this more secure? It's a sword with a u-cut so it has this gap between blades which is what you see here.
I can't pin it because it's maybe .5mm thick and those connection points are so small.
Anonymous No.95999049 [Report] >>95999080
>>95999042
Forgot the picture
Anonymous No.95999066 [Report]
New thread:

>>95999059
>>95999059
>>95999059
Anonymous No.95999080 [Report]
>>95999042
>>95999049
drill a pin into the hand and build the sword around that handle, you can leave as big gap between the blades as you want
Anonymous No.95999144 [Report]
>>95998066
Oof...
Anonymous No.95999199 [Report]
>>95998822
Post a single non-grimbrap mini you painted, nigger.
Anonymous No.96000997 [Report]
test
Anonymous No.96001257 [Report]
>>95998419
I'm the original poster I'm more wondering about adhesion if you don't use a primer. I've never used acrylic paint without using a primer first so it would be good to know in general. For example for doing touch ups on old minis that came in prepainted too. Don't know why someone tried to larp as me I didn't even print using resin