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Thread 96043838

366 posts 176 images /tg/
Anonymous No.96043838
WIP - Work In Progress General
Work in Progress, "Taco Tuesday" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5Df191WJ3o

Previous threads:
>>96021179
>>95999059
>>95975396
>>95949628
Anonymous No.96043862 >>96043886 >>96043915 >>96043985 >>96045159 >>96045730 >>96045993 >>96046063 >>96052981
How do you guys cope with improvement? Most of my figures are starting to look dogshit in my eyes where once they were really cool. It's weird to see them next to newer guys who incorporate such advanced techniques as using a thinner medium and more than one brush.
Anonymous No.96043886 >>96043924
>>96043862
Any time I go back and add miniatures to a past project, I take care to paint in the same style at the same level, even if I can do better.
Consistency across an army/team/etc... is very important to me for exactly this reason.
Anonymous No.96043915
>>96043862
>How do you guys cope with improvement?
Try new things. Push yourself. What I've realised is that it's really easy to get your mini to look nice, but to make it look great, you have to first make it look shit, if that makes sense. The basic mini painting process is basically just a 3D colouring in book. Then over the top of that, you have to start applying traditional painting techniques and trust the process. It looks like shit until that very last brush stroke where it suddenly comes together. So without the experience, it just feels like you're ruining the mini because you don't know what's going to come out the other side.

TLDR: try new things, push yourself, trust the process and don't be afraid to ruin the mini.
Anonymous No.96043924
>>96043886
the goal with this project (TSATF Colonials) was to get better at basic technique by doing a lot of similar guys as practice so my mission has been sort of accomplished but it also means there are going to be some occasional mismatches. At least the high modelcount nature of the game will hopefully conceal that. Mostly it's just that the earlier figures are all really really heavily shaded because I didn't know washes could be thinned or applied lightly. That and skin contrast was really high starting out between base and highlight before smoothing out over time.
Anonymous No.96043947 >>96043960 >>96044789 >>96045195 >>96045277
Looking for suggestions for what sort of base works with this scheme. I'm thinking of going for a vaugely alien jungle look but I'm not really sure what I want yet.
Anonymous No.96043960 >>96044004
>>96043947
A chocolate factory.
Anonymous No.96043985
>>96043862
Just look at your past minis as your timeline of progression. You can always look back and see where you started and where you're at now as a way to keep yourself motivated or give yourself a confidence boost if you're ever feeling like you suck as a painter (something I struggle with a lot).
Anonymous No.96044004
>>96043960
Could work, I think the Neurolictor has the charisma to pull it off
Anonymous No.96044789 >>96045592
>>96043947
When in doubt, I use the opposite of my main color. In this case, it turns out to be a blue that goes nicely with his brain. Blue jungle?
Anonymous No.96045123 >>96045145 >>96045248 >>96046762 >>96052113
I got myself an airbrush and this guy has been my test subject.
He has turned out quite nicely, considering that I don't know what I'm doing with the airbrush.
Nice tool, fun to use.
10/10 would recomend.
Anonymous No.96045145
>>96045123
>Nice tool, fun to use.
Incoming clog
Anonymous No.96045159
>>96043862
I just rework them as much as possible which is another cool part of the hobby
Anonymous No.96045195 >>96045592
>>96043947
he would pop out in snow terrain
Anonymous No.96045248 >>96045299
>>96045123
Looks cool, even if someone won't often be viewing it from underneath. Was it as simple as just doing a yellow-orange-red gradient?
Anonymous No.96045277 >>96045592
>>96043947
you could think about why they're brown and black in the first place. Probably to blend in with their environment right? But a base the same color would be boring and look bad. So something contrasting, as other anon said your browny orange would be most contrasting with a blue. But not something too elaborate that it draws your eyes away (or maybe you want to do something elaborate thats cool too). So you could have a brown/black environment that then has had snowfall to make it fit both those criteria. Or a brown muddy jungle maybe mangroves, that can have those blue-green and blues to contrast.
And all these choices are constrained by what you can do feasibly. If it was me I'd probably do snow since I can make fine enough snow nowadays that doesn't turn piss yellow on me with polyfiller (and paint it's shadows with vibrant blues). And go for something like those cool geometric icelandic volcanic rocks maybe made from sprue. Or just normal rocks. Maybe some moss. That's what I could pull out right now with no purchasing of some 3d printed plants and shit which is what you probably would want for a jungle base. I also think the alien coral bases people make are really cool but would be too vibrant for that mini and would draw your eye away I think
Anonymous No.96045299
>>96045248
>Was it as simple as just doing a yellow-orange-red gradient?
Mostly. I started with a red ink and added more and more yellow paint to the mix while focusing on smaller areas. Then you add some depth with the regular brush and it's done.
The green parts are painted with the airbrush too. Not sure about the result of the blue hue on the back of the mini. Meh, it's a test in the end.
Anonymous No.96045327 >>96045585
It is stupid question but - can varnish actually expire? Also, if varnish (intended for airbrush) leave brush marks, should it be thinned more or added retarder (and if - what kind of) and how much?

Sorry for dumb questions.
Anonymous No.96045512 >>96045517 >>96045524
Finally have enough to play oathmark.
10x line breakers
10x spearmen
20x bowmen
5x heavy cav
5x light cav

I also have some more painted, but I still have 3 models unpainted in various boxes if I wanted to bring those 10x units up to 12 and those 5x units up to 6 for lion rampant though.
Anonymous No.96045517
>>96045512
fuckidy fuck
Anonymous No.96045524 >>96045608 >>96049564
>>96045512
Great magnetization here
Anonymous No.96045585
>>96045327
I don't really thin my varnishes, but do apply with a wet brush and make sure I'm keeping it that way if doing a large model or batches. Shake well, then shake some more before use. If you get clouding or brush marks apply another coat. I don't think it can expire unless the container has degraded or something.
Anonymous No.96045592
>>96044789
>>96045195
>>96045277
Thanks for the suggestions, it's just personal preference but I'm not the biggest fan of snow bases so I'm probably going to avoid that.
I'd not even considered blues for a nice contrast.
I can't get the idea of a muted blue alien jungle out of my head now. Gonna give that a go and if it looks bad we'll never speak of it again
Anonymous No.96045608
>>96045524
Anonymous No.96045730
>>96043862
I actually like to see my progression and nobody is going to notice unless your older minis are REALLY bad compared to your recent ones.
Anonymous No.96045993
>>96043862
you can always tidy up your old paint jobs like you would do now.
Anonymous No.96046063
I got burnt out yesterday after painting 6 days a week for hours for a whole month almost exclusively on Orcs.

I told myself I would take a break today but after some self study, gaming, and light exercise I got really bored and picked up this legionary I built months ago. It was so much fun painting something other than orc sking and weathered metal.


I didn't use wash for the armor and I like it alot. No reapplication of the basecoat and waiting for wash to dry. added a little bit of evil sunz scarlet to the WB red I used as a midtone and using AP The Darkness to wetblend the black shoulders and weapons a little bit. sorry for the blog post but breaking the monotony really reignited my passion.


is there too much silver? Should I introduce some copper gold to the knee or shoulder or other accents?

>>96043862

I keep my old shitty minis to remind myself of how far I come. At the very least I got pics if I ever want to repaint them,but I would sooner just buy an updated sculpt
Anonymous No.96046762 >>96046772 >>96046836
>>96045123
I was thinking of getting an airbrush as well anon. What was your beginner setup? This is my workstation - any considerations I need to make if I want to get into airbrushing?
Anonymous No.96046772 >>96046793 >>96046802
>>96046762
forgot pic
Anonymous No.96046793 >>96046818
>>96046772
I'm tracking you down as we speak, shouldn't have posted that window bucko
Anonymous No.96046799
Wip necron army
Anonymous No.96046802
>>96046772
>View directly into neighbour's window 5m away
Ah, the horrors of post modernity, I almost forgot for a moment
Anonymous No.96046818
>>96046793
no...
Anonymous No.96046836 >>96046927
>>96046762
Your workstation is way better than mine, except for that chair.
I went for this combo:
Timbertech - ABPST01
Fengda FD-18A
It works really well (not that I have something to compare with but still). Just watch some tutorials on how to get started and basic troubleshooting and get on with it.
Im already adding inks to my wishlist since my paint palette is very limited.
Anonymous No.96046927 >>96047054 >>96047056 >>96047086 >>96047383 >>96052183 >>96052239 >>96072836
>>96046836
do you think I need some sort of ventilator mask / protective area.
Anonymous No.96047054
>>96046927
Yes, and a hazmat suit, and a decontamination airlock entryway, and a hazardous waste disposal service, and the room you have it in must be airgapped from the rest of your facility, don't forget to keep hazardous materials information sheets readily available, oh and an emergency alarm system with air raid sirens to alert the community if you have a spill.
Anonymous No.96047056 >>96047355
>>96046927
I guess it depends on how much are you painting.
If you are painting an army of tanks and big dragons all at once, get a mask.
For your regular painting session, I would just open the window for a while.
I use a piece of cardboard to protect my table and to test the flow and no mask.
It really doesnt shoot that much pigment.
Anonymous No.96047086
>>96046927
Getting a spray booth is probably a good idea. As long as you're spraying acrylics only you could get away with just opening your windows and putting like a piece of cardboard behind your mini. Acrylics should be non-toxic even when sprayed but it's still shit getting into your lungs so no reason to not take some basic precautions if you can.
Anonymous No.96047090 >>96047169
Anyone know some kind of bits merchant that would sell orc heads? And by orc I don't mean ork but more something akin to Warcraft, and ideally with both male and female heads.
Anonymous No.96047169
>>96047090
In Europe I know that Puppetswar has good orc bits
Anonymous No.96047355 >>96047629
>>96047056
Kinda unrelated but do you have any problems spraying the new Vallejo formulation? How much you thin it? This shit clogs my airbrush a lot more often than other brands despite the fact that I thin them more
Anonymous No.96047383
>>96046927
for acrylics you just need a cardboard box to trap most of the dust and a respirator rated for small particles such as n95
Anonymous No.96047629
>>96047355
The only Paint that gave me clogging problems was the old fluorescent Orange.
I thin them until they feel milky with water and/or thinner.
Anonymous No.96047711 >>96047942 >>96049080 >>96049155 >>96069969
I like how it turned out
Anonymous No.96047942
>>96047711
Nice blue, looks slimy
Anonymous No.96048479 >>96048527
seems alright so far
Anonymous No.96048527
>>96048479
Looking good despite the model itself being awful.
Anonymous No.96049080
>>96047711
I'm feeling the blue. Makes it seem like they integrated the local plant life into their biology.
Anonymous No.96049155 >>96049180
>>96047711
Looks fantastic.
I was planning something similar with this guy: a blueish jungle with neon pink flora.
Nicely done.
Anonymous No.96049180
>>96049155
Gotta love alien planets with glowy bioluminescent alian flora
Anonymous No.96049564
>>96045524
Aussies must spend a fortune magnetizing their stuff.
Anonymous No.96050582 >>96051008 >>96051580 >>96051619
Finished.
Anonymous No.96050962 >>96052339 >>96058081 >>96058424 >>96071209
>reposting from WH40k 4th Edition Battle Bible Project
Tried making my own washes at last following a modified les' wash recipe.
I used ultra matte medium and liquitex inks instead of daler rowney inks because Liquitex product sale on webstore I bought it from.

I seem to have made a dark grey wash and it stains flat surfaces a little too much. Should I add more flow aid and ink?
Anybody here made his own washes able to chime in with some advice, please?
Anonymous No.96051008 >>96052756
>>96050582
Excellent as always space sorcerers anon
Anonymous No.96051580 >>96052756
>>96050582
iss byodiful
Anonymous No.96051619 >>96052756
>>96050582
Only complaint is the silver or maybe brass highlight over the gold in the staff. It's not working. Other than that, it's great.
Anonymous No.96051932 >>96051970 >>96057538
blue tac’d the head and backpack on to see how they’d do on the body, and I’m not sure if I like it, might cut the banner pole off.
Anonymous No.96051970
>>96051932
Holy shit, is the paint on the cape so thick that it's elevated, or is that just an optical illusion or something?
Anonymous No.96052113 >>96052332 >>96055219
>>96045123
why is he standing on a cork raft in lava?
Anonymous No.96052183
>>96046927
bro I have a massive yard and shed and fine weather year round, I still lean out the window and spray, unless I'm priming a bunch at the same tim
Anonymous No.96052239
>>96046927
People will say no but I say yes, it's not really paint or thinner that is the problem. It's aerating Windex and IPA and things of that nature that will totally shred your lungs. I spray into a hat box lined with paper lol but I wear a mask and gloves and put the fan on to push particulatles away from my face.
Anonymous No.96052332
>>96052113
lorelet
Anonymous No.96052339 >>96052691
>>96050962
Add speedpaint or contrast medium to reduce the stains
Anonymous No.96052691 >>96058081
>>96052339
I'm trying to avoid using hobby specific products for this project.
Since you mention speedpaint or contrast medium does that mean more flow aid or is there another product that I am missing here?
Anonymous No.96052756
>>96051008
>>96051580
Thank you fellas
>>96051619
You mean the part in the middle? I wasn't sure about it either, what color do you think would look good instead?
Anonymous No.96052782 >>96052795 >>96053689
Working on this guy and stuck here. Any thoughts on what to do next? Or how I should do the base
Anonymous No.96052795 >>96052807
>>96052782
Lorewise, I dunno if pink is really a good idea for a grey knight or whatever loayalist looking marine that is. I feel like Slaanesh and Tzeentch have a bit of a monopoly on pink warp shenanigans. Unless you're doing that pink to yellow/orange thing.
Anonymous No.96052807 >>96052817
>>96052795
Chose pink because my palette was inspired by the Silver Knight of Slaanesh. Picked this guy up second hand for dirt cheap and wanted to experiment
Anonymous No.96052817
>>96052807
That works then. Throw away minis for testing colours is based. Doing the pink before the base might have been a bit of a mistake though. You still need to paint it but now it's covered in pink. I'd probably lean more towards bluey/green stone for it. Should be loads of videos on that.
Anonymous No.96052981
>>96043862
This is a normal feeling. Because your figures are dogshit. The only cure is making a firm decision to constantly improve yourself and practice. And it is going to take years. I have been painting somewhat intensively for competitions for around 6 years at this point. I started getting bigger level awards only recently and I've seen kids who are much better than me after 2-3 years of painting. If you want to get good you have to keep pushing yourself constantly.
Anonymous No.96053689
>>96052782
I like the pink but having the wax on the purity seals be the same colour as the osl is a bad idea. contrast with a green maybe. the sword should also be a lot brighter/whiter at the source
Anonymous No.96054036 >>96054102
Finally got around to priming my new m3a1 half-track and m4a3 105. Fair bit of greenstuff and kitbashing for that cosy lived-in look.
Anonymous No.96054102 >>96054566
>>96054036
They cute as fuck. I really need to do a scale model again at some point
Anonymous No.96054160
>decide to strip an old model and try a light kitbash on it
>spend 4 days doing a kitbash that barely changed anything but kept fucking it up
>finally done, time to prime in hellish heat
>rattlecan dies mid priming, goes quite awry

Many such cases. Cursed mini. I shall persevere and make it look good, praise the emperor
Anonymous No.96054484 >>96054527
The artify dry brush set is suddenly 15 bucks, for anyone that might want it
Anonymous No.96054497
Should I pick primer color based on the end result of the paint job or ease of painting on said color? I'm not sure how much of a difference the former makes since you're covering it anyways.
Anonymous No.96054527 >>96054576
>>96054484
>Canadian Amazon says 30 dollars
I hate being poor lads.
Anyways what are these dome shaped brushes called outside the hobby so I can get the art store discount?
Anonymous No.96054566
>>96054102
Thanks anon, scale model vids are very inspiring.
Anonymous No.96054576
>>96054527
>Amazon
I should have specified ebay, even cheaper than the amazon sale
I'm not aware of any conventional name besides drybrush or round bulb brush
Anonymous No.96055219
>>96052113
Cause he can.
Anonymous No.96055564 >>96055774 >>96055895 >>96055909 >>96056375 >>96058210 >>96063093
These look absolutely terrible on base rims, they're far too matte.

What's the best black for that?
Anonymous No.96055774
>>96055564
any black you like varnished with the finish of your choice
Anonymous No.96055895
>>96055564
arent base rims already black? just clean them
Anonymous No.96055909 >>96055943 >>96056209 >>96056240 >>96062405
>>96055564
>What's the best black for that?
the best black for base rims is not using black at all and go with the dominant basing color instead
Anonymous No.96055943
>>96055909
I like black base rims because it's a nice seperation between the base and whatever table the mini ends up on
Anonymous No.96056209 >>96056272
>>96055909
You are objectively wrong.
Anonymous No.96056240
>>96055909
I like to use an army's secondary color if the basing is simplistic
Anonymous No.96056261 >>96056290 >>96056305 >>96057418
i have heard this rumour multiple times that in games workshop stores there is some official painting table where they try to hook up potential new customers by making it look easy as possible
is there any truth to this
Anonymous No.96056265 >>96056320
I swear, every single time I want to take photo of completed minis, it's either fighting with focus or boys and girls looking far worse than what I see with naked eye.

Anyway, how they turned out? I hope that transitions between shades are less rough this time.
Anonymous No.96056272
>>96056209
no u
Anonymous No.96056290
>>96056261
To paraphrase Bruce Campbell, "is this some kind of bait?"
Anonymous No.96056305 >>96057424
Also, do you think that camo markings are okay for minis or rather should be avoided?

>>96056261
I only visited store selling almost exclusively GW stuff (not sure it it was "official" one) 4-5 years ago and they indeed had table with minis and painting ready and, when I asked about what kind of supplies are needed (I was planning to start back then), they right away offered to try painting one in store, which I politely declined since I was afraid they would ask me to pay for it afterwards.
Anonymous No.96056320
>>96056265
highlights are kill by default so dont mind that anon it happens to everyone
i would wash that bronze one time over but other than that very nice
Anonymous No.96056375
>>96055564
I'm using the Vallejo matte black and it's good.
Anonymous No.96057372 >>96057425 >>96057552 >>96057620 >>96069096
not sure if i should add verdigris to this one
Anonymous No.96057418
>>96056261

It's been their policy for as long as I can remember, at least 2 decades if not more
Anonymous No.96057424
>>96056305
>camo markings
my experience trying to recreate IRL camos made me think that if you try and recreate the non repeating odd shapes then it'll look bad on a mini. Repeating shapes like simple tiger stripe camo or dots look good and readable on a small scale. If it's too complex, too many colors, too many different shapes, it'll look shit and like an unreadable mess. Which is ironic, because that's what you'd want camo IRL to do.
I don't know what camo you're going for there but I'd say maybe add more repeating/like shapes. Right now it's khaki with some random splotches that doesn't seem to add up to a camo pattern but rather just splotches if you get what I mean? I'd reccomend stealing a pattern from a mini you think looks cool. Keeping it simple, graphic, and punchy is always a good idea.
Anonymous No.96057425 >>96057857
>>96057372
just a little here and there to break the overall muted colors but not too much
great metalwork btw
Anonymous No.96057538
>>96051932
Put the flag in the same direction as the cape, anon
Anonymous No.96057552 >>96057857
>>96057372
nah it's a bad meme
Anonymous No.96057620
>>96057372
I'd add a tiny bit. Very watered down. Less is more in my opinion. Same as blood effects.
Anonymous No.96057857 >>96058095 >>96069103
>>96057425
ty

it still has some color coming, the cloths will be blood red
>>96057552
<< it has worked fine in the past

i guess ill finish the rest and see
Anonymous No.96057898 >>96058052 >>96058314 >>96058332 >>96058360 >>96069115 >>96069191
Anyone have any thoughts on buying minis from Temu/Aliexpress for cheap kitbashing material?
Anonymous No.96058052
>>96057898
Makes sense to me
Anonymous No.96058076 >>96058109 >>96058326 >>96058392 >>96062420 >>96068343
Just wanted to share, photo probably does not show it completely but I once asked you guys about problems with varnishes, especially how "contrast medium + AK ultra matt" would result in desaturated, grayed out colors and "frosty" look. So I picked up two years old training marines (they were painting practice) and tried first few combinations I wanted to try - Vallejo (new?) matte with just little water from brush, Vallejo "premium color" matte also with little water, Vallejo "mecha color" matte in two variants - one 5-1 mixed with their airbrush flow improver (makes sense since it's airbrush varnish in theory) and another mixed 1-1 with just plain water and finally attempt to fix problem with ultra matt by just mixing it in equal proportions with AK normal matt varnish (so 1-1-2 of ultra matt - matt - GW contrast medium). All applied by brush. Tldr: turns out that just adding that normal matt was enough to get no change in color and nice, matte surface (not completely matte but visibly uniform). That easy, huh?

Vallejo normal matte ended somewhat glossy/satin but maybe it dries really slow. Premium color similar but more matte, it might be just me but also appears to intensity colors slightly. Mecha matte with flow improver dries visibly faster than previous two, some parts appears little "melted" (similar to too thick paint sections) but most have good matte effect. Variant 1-1 thinned with water was disaster - pool markings, random frosty effects, random glossy sections, etc. And mentioned AK ultra + normal matte, best out of these and dried fastest too. As a bonus, another try for Mr Hobby GX UV cut, with their thinner, on test plastic piece, thinned only slightly with their thinner and again it ended with instantly melted, previously cured paint and window wide open to get rid of the smell. I'm convinced that these scale modellers were trolling me. Only thing left is trying gouache varnish (it uses white spirit as thinner) I guess.

Sorry for lengthy post.
Anonymous No.96058081
>>96050962
>>96052691
>update
I think the non hobby ingredient might be dish soap but I'm not sure.
Should I add one drop to the flow aid+distilled water mix or add one drop for every 30ml bottle mix then shake after putting the lid back on?
Anonymous No.96058095 >>96058725
>>96057857
hey i remember you
you wrote all those great tutorial posts on how to paint banged up metal properly and instantly recognized old pewter vc black rider sword
so thank you anon and keep up the good work
Anonymous No.96058109 >>96058151
>>96058076
That was a good read, anon. Thank you for making this post and doing this for us.
Maybe your post should be screenshotted and added to a mega archive that gets linked in the pastebin?
Anonymous No.96058139 >>96058167 >>96058202 >>96058248 >>96062014 >>96071282
Anyone have experience with ultra-black paints?
Anonymous No.96058151
>>96058109
I feel honored to hear that. Maybe I should make better quality photo for each of these guys instead of using phone.
Anonymous No.96058167 >>96058182
>>96058139
>we are 100% BLACK!
Anonymous No.96058182
>>96058167
Hmm 99.4% ackchyually
Anonymous No.96058202 >>96058215 >>96058317
>>96058139
They're just black paints with a shitload of matting agent added, for 10 times the price.
That's the trick to "ultra" black finishes, they aren't darker than black somehow, the finish is just so dull it doesn't reflect light.
Save yourself the money and get a decent matte varnish instead.
Anonymous No.96058210
>>96055564
Use gundam markers for rimming bases. They look just right and are going to make your life much easier.
Anonymous No.96058215 >>96058221 >>96058223 >>96058242
>>96058202
head is normal black, body is ultra-black meme paint
Anonymous No.96058221 >>96058242
>>96058215
Another example posted in the reviews
Anonymous No.96058223 >>96058227
>>96058215
And the picture is shit. What are you trying to tell me, anon?
Anonymous No.96058227 >>96058248
>>96058223
It doesn't look like a normal matte black.
Anonymous No.96058242 >>96058247 >>96062781
>>96058215
>>96058221
Kinda unrelated but what would be a possible use for such a color? It literally hides all the detail, I can't imagine ever wanting to paint something with this
Anonymous No.96058247 >>96058259 >>96058347
>>96058242
Picrel is why I was considering it
Anonymous No.96058248 >>96058257
>>96058227
I told >>96058139 to get a good matte varnish, not "normal matte black".
Again, please explain what you're doing.
Anonymous No.96058257
>>96058248
It's clearly more than a good finish, the black is a different color altogether.
Anonymous No.96058259 >>96058265
>>96058247
Oh okay that makes sense. Is this some old Changeling model or something? It's pretty damn cool, the new one is kinda boring
Anonymous No.96058265
>>96058259
Yes 5th edition changeling. Somehow found it for only 20 bucks on ebay
Anonymous No.96058314
>>96057898
>for cheap kitbashing material?
I’m a bit skeptical because the vast majority of them are resin.
Anonymous No.96058317 >>96071074
>>96058202
>they aren't darker than black somehow, the finish is just so dull it doesn't reflect light.
Isn't that the literal definition of black though, not reflecting light? The less something reflects light, the blacker it is.
Anonymous No.96058326 >>96058387
>>96058076
So the final answer is just 1:1 AK ultra matte with AK matte? Or still mixing contrast medium?
Anonymous No.96058332
>>96057898
May as well get regular recasts because they'll actually be cured resin
Anonymous No.96058347
>>96058247
Might be a good idea there, but a normal black with a matte varnish, and bright colours on the hood will also create nearly the same illusion.
There's probably some nighthaunt or similar models that would also look good with parts of the model painted like a blank void.
Anonymous No.96058360 >>96058368 >>96058374 >>96069139 >>96069166
>>96057898
working with plastic is just way more fun than resin or 3d printed stuff. You can buy single sprues from wargames atlantic or other stuff like that on ebay. for about the same cost per model as aliexpress/temu recasts/chinesium. Cutting into 3d printed stuff basically just ruins it. And resin is just like cutting into an already finished model which means you basically have to already have a plan for the model you buy.
Anonymous No.96058368 >>96058396
>>96058360
Aren't those just resin that looks like plastic?
Anonymous No.96058374
>>96058360
Some recasters do bits, worth looking around
Anonymous No.96058387 >>96058395
>>96058326
Still adding, it was 1 drop of ultra, 1 of normal matte and 2 of contrast medium. Don't know what GW puts in there but it really improve flow and leveling.
Anonymous No.96058392 >>96058437
>>96058076
> As a bonus, another try for Mr Hobby GX UV cut, with their thinner, on test plastic piece, thinned only slightly with their thinner and again it ended with instantly melted, previously cured paint and window wide open to get rid of the smell
That’s a lacquer product. You never use lacquers over acrylics, only over other lacquers or enamel paints. Maybe it can work i thinned over stronger acrylics like acrysion or atom, but I wouldn’t bet on it. The mr. color thinner on its own will immediately strip acrylic paints.
Anonymous No.96058395 >>96058437
>>96058387
Well damn, have you tried with speedpaint 2.0 medium? Since it's like half the price
Anonymous No.96058396
>>96058368
are the wargames atlantic sprues plastic? yes.
my experience of looking through aliexpress for the same purpose as the question asker lead me to just see tonnes of resin miniatures or 3d prints with no plastic in sight.
Anonymous No.96058398
But mecha color with their airbrush thinner also ended up okay, only slightly more satin that AK mix so that's sound option too. I still have Vallejo polyurethane matte but I'm not sure if they are still available in shops so I didn't test it like that.
Anonymous No.96058424
>>96050962
For acrylic washes, I use dispel magic from scale 75 and it works great. For oil, I use oil paints thinned down with turpentine.
Anonymous No.96058437
>>96058392
Since I was told that during conversations with scale modellers on exhibition and local booths were selling acrylic paints unknow to me but still marked at waterbased, that's possible. I do have Mr Color same one in spray can, unopened, so maybe I could also try it on like that.

Good that I checked on test plastic instead of actual mini first.

>>96058395
No, sorry. Out of AP products, I only have their washes.
Anonymous No.96058485 >>96058738 >>96060358
Just to add - trying to find a solution can be quite frustrating and costly.
Anonymous No.96058682 >>96062605 >>96068000 >>96068236
Finished a captain and apothecary for the Fire Angels.
Anonymous No.96058725
>>96058095
Anonymous No.96058738 >>96058894 >>96059009
>>96058485
a solution to wat
Anonymous No.96058769 >>96058837
Here's my first attempt at battletech fugures, how'd I do fellers?
Anonymous No.96058837
>>96058769
Better than nuln and turtles do.
Anonymous No.96058894 >>96059125
>>96058738
Varnishing.
Anonymous No.96058973
Though not by much enh? Tried using speed paints for the first time.
Anonymous No.96059009
>>96058738
To the jewish question, of course.
Anonymous No.96059125
>>96058894
what solution did that need? what did you find?
Anonymous No.96060358 >>96062290 >>96069149
>>96058485
As someone who also went down a varnish rabbit hole, the end was this:
Anonymous No.96060442 >>96060487
I want to prime some shit but the humidity here is at 80 fucking 2%. Been like that for days.
Anonymous No.96060487 >>96060498
>>96060442
Do you only have rattlecans or do you have a bottle of primer? You can just brush it on if you need to. Not ideal, but still good enough for most things.
Anonymous No.96060498 >>96060512
>>96060487
I have brush on primer but it always looks like shit if I use it primarily. I only use it for cleaning up the rattle can stuff.
Anonymous No.96060512
>>96060498
Fair, I've only tested it on some lower quality minis and it was fine. Just a bunch of boardgame minis I needed to get done. If it's something expensive or something you want to put a lot of effort into, probably best to just wait. Infantry and shit though, should be fine.
Anonymous No.96060918
Is there a trick to blacklining? I'm trying to wet the crevice or wet the area and use ink and it's not really working
Anonymous No.96061258 >>96061272 >>96061279 >>96061667 >>96061773 >>96063746
Anybody have any advice for me? Haven't painted anything in a long time. These were rescue models and I'll admit I didn't strip the first layer but this was preshaded with an airbrush then I've been using contrast paints on it but it looks ugly.
Anonymous No.96061272 >>96061281
>>96061258
Looks like there was some dust caught in the paint. Also, you need to shade the green body. Either do a brown wash and highlight the green back in or start glazing purple and shit.
Anonymous No.96061279
>>96061258
be more thorough with your application of paint, there's plenty spots where the undercoat is still showing though
Anonymous No.96061281 >>96061298
>>96061272
Do you think the dust was from the airbrushing? Also I'm surprised cause the green is from a speedpaint specifically necrotic flesh. But I can go over it with a brown wash then clean it up
Anonymous No.96061298 >>96061312
>>96061281
>Do you think the dust was from the airbrushing?
Sometimes it is if your compressor isnt particularly steady and you don't thin your paint enough, but I dont think this was the case here. It was probably just dust in the miniature when you painted.
>Also I'm surprised cause the green is from a speedpaint specifically necrotic flesh
Yeah you can't rely on this sort of paints to do all the heavy work. Sometimes they work great with the preshading, but other times they dont. Most light colors suck at this for obvious reasons.
Anonymous No.96061312 >>96061320
>>96061298
For sure, I'm kinda tempted to just resin print new zombies if there's alot of layer built up in these but. Do you guys have any advice for making sure the model is dust free before priming it? Maybe just spraying compressed air over it lol
Anonymous No.96061320
>>96061312
large makeup brushes
compressed air might physically be overkill
Anonymous No.96061667 >>96061758
>>96061258
>Haven't painted anything in a long time
>I'll admit I didn't strip the first layer
>using contrast paints
>looks ugly
I mean you answered your own question. You're rusty, you were lazy and you're paints designed for speed painting large batches with minimal effort. Of course it's gonna be ugly. Start from scratch, relearn the basics.
Anonymous No.96061758 >>96061811
>>96061667
Stripping some zombies right now, gonna make sure the models clean before priming. Also to make a paint into a glaze do I just mix a 1:1 ratio with medium?
Anonymous No.96061773 >>96061783 >>96061809
>>96061258
zombie skin is just rakarth flesh+nuln oil
no need for anything more special unless your feeling fancy
Anonymous No.96061783 >>96061793
>>96061773
>citadel naming conventions
>not even slapsloppa
Anonymous No.96061793
>>96061783
i dont get it
Anonymous No.96061799 >>96061814
What's the best way to clean your metal files?
I've seen things from damp toothbrushes with soap then quickly dry them to "brass brushes."
Not sure if there is a better more efficient way of doing this.
Also I got Tamiya smooth basic file set (smooth double cut) from a thrift store still in package for 2 bucks. Did I get lucky here?
Anonymous No.96061809 >>96061848
>>96061773
You actually get better zombie skin if you do a purple wash rather than black, at least in my oppinion
Anonymous No.96061811
>>96061758
No, need much more medium for a glaze. I've seen from 1:3 to 1:10. You just gotta eyeball it depending on the paint. When you glaze, the first few layers shouldn't do anything visibly.
Anonymous No.96061814 >>96061855
>>96061799
Anonymous No.96061848
>>96061809
I really love the greenish color from army painters necrotic flesh, but maybe I can just do a purple wash on that then
Anonymous No.96061855 >>96061864 >>96061922
>>96061814
Does anybody genuinely use that for the purpose I'm looking for?
Anonymous No.96061864 >>96061882 >>96061922
>>96061855
would it work better if it was sold in hobbyshop as file purifier 9000 with +500% markup
Anonymous No.96061882 >>96061896
>>96061864
>would it work better if it was sold in hobbyshop as file purifier 9000 with +500% markup
Gonna be honest with ya man. I think it is trolling.
I think I'll just give brass brushes a try as the packaging says to do so.
Anonymous No.96061896 >>96061912
>>96061882
brass should be +800% then
Anonymous No.96061898 >>96061912 >>96061912 >>96062068 >>96062160 >>96062179 >>96062612
Honest question for the thread re: plasma coils.

>white in the recesses, color on the coils

or

>color in the recesses, white on the coils

I've seen them both ways, but fuck if I'm not indecisive for how I want to do the big plasma guns for my titanicus warmaster.
Anonymous No.96061912
>>96061896
I'll just use a toothbrush and see how that goes.
>>96061898
For me because I'm a hopeless hipster I plan to use Pro Acryl's light bronze because it is my ideal metallic light brass color.
>>96061898
But I think that white in the recesses, color on the coils looks better.
Anonymous No.96061922 >>96061925
>>96061855
Look up "file card" for a wire brush tool that's literally designed to clean up files. Putting the brush on a power tool just makes it faster. Use brass wire if you're concerned about wear.
>>96061864 True for so many things in this hobby.
Anonymous No.96061925 >>96062001
>>96061922
Thank you anon! Thank you so much.
Anonymous No.96062001 >>96062051
>>96061925
Wear eye protection when you're cleaning the file especially if you are using power tools. At the very least turn your head away when your scraping the gunk out of the file, that shit can fling up into your eyes and you're not going to see it.
Anonymous No.96062014 >>96062045
>>96058139
What's the point? We should never be painting minis with pure black unless it's the primer. For us, black is just a dark grey, it still looks black.
Anonymous No.96062045 >>96063899
>>96062014
Demonic holes.
Anonymous No.96062051 >>96062061
>>96062001
Will the safety glasses I bought for sprues maybe flying in my eyes be enough?
Anonymous No.96062061 >>96062086 >>96062118
>>96062051
No, only the Citadel branded Goggles for the Goggle God can properly protect your eyes from hobby related eye injuries.
Anonymous No.96062068 >>96062135
>>96061898
Both ways work so it's a matter of preference really. You can also leave the coils metallic, I think that looks pretty cool as well
Anonymous No.96062086
>>96062061
this but unironically
Anonymous No.96062118
>>96062061
Aight you made me laugh. Well played. I'll take that as a yes I'll be fine with the safety glasses I already have.
Anonymous No.96062135
>>96062068
Yeah really just a difference between at rest and primed. Depends on what you want with the model.
Anonymous No.96062160
>>96061898
Having no glow on the coils and just leaving them gold/bronze/copper also looks cool, depends on what it is you're after
Anonymous No.96062165 >>96062192 >>96062200
i get it how some people are just not handy at all, they were never all that rare
but in the last decade or so this total lack of any vision and imagination has become so common all of a sudden its becoming pretty unnerving
Anonymous No.96062179
>>96061898
I like juan hidalgo's plasma recipe which drybrushes the coils darker towards the top and drops some white ink in the recesses at the bottom
Anonymous No.96062192
>>96062165
Internet overloads peoples brains with data so it paradoxically became more difficult to find actually reliable information. In the past you just did shit and took advice from your family/friends without worrying it too much. Now if you look up anything on the internet you'll find a million articles with conflicting information so of course people get confused and are wary of experimenting.
Anonymous No.96062200
>>96062165
ebin blogpost broski, liked and subscribed
Anonymous No.96062290
>>96060358
>Mr.Color
Anonymous No.96062303 >>96062323 >>96062384 >>96062402 >>96062430 >>96063898
Is it easy/desirable to remove these things from old models so I can magnetize the base better?
Anonymous No.96062323 >>96062341
>>96062303
God I hope that's your skin.
Anonymous No.96062341 >>96062430
>>96062323
Anonymous No.96062384 >>96062398
>>96062303
Helps keep the model on the base, but do as you see fit.
Anonymous No.96062398 >>96062483
>>96062384
He has a fat flat ass, I'm just wondering about the practicality of it (which tool, can it damage the mini, etc)
Anonymous No.96062402
>>96062303
They'll come right off with a pair of cheap clippers or tin snips, fancier clippers will work too but it might dull the blade. Metal models are more prone to shedding their bases so if you do clip off the tab make sure you have good contact between the model and the base.
Anonymous No.96062405
>>96055909
For Warhammer bases that can look nice, but I don't think it works that well on others.
Anonymous No.96062420 >>96062603
>>96058076
Why water instead of thinner?
Anonymous No.96062430 >>96063773
>>96062341
There's a rather infamous.. incident on /k/ involving a Makarov and a similar background.

>>96062303
>Is it easy/desirable to remove these things from old models
Depends. Collectors lose their shit.
The tab is meant to go in the slot on a slottabase. When I'm using a flat-topped base I sometimes cut and file them into pins, it gives a more substantial connection to the base than just shoving paperclip wires into the foot and you don't have to worry about running pins into their ankles.
Anonymous No.96062483
>>96062398
It's soft metal, I used to cut them off with nippers.
Anonymous No.96062603
>>96062420
These are all waterbased varnishes, are they not?
Anonymous No.96062605 >>96068975
>>96058682
I like them, anon. Nice and grimy, looking better than the eavy metal meme.
Anonymous No.96062612
>>96061898
yes
Anonymous No.96062693 >>96062797 >>96062857 >>96063746
tzeentch fucking shits
Anonymous No.96062781
>>96058242
would be pretty good for mandrakes i reckon
Anonymous No.96062797
>>96062693
C L E A N
L
E
A
N
Anonymous No.96062857
>>96062693
that's a pretty sick blue
Anonymous No.96063093
>>96055564
unironically abaddon black. citadel pain is satin enough by default.
Anonymous No.96063099 >>96063201
a diversion into scalemodels
Anonymous No.96063201
>>96063099
I like the weathering
Anonymous No.96063746 >>96063763
Did this word bearer. Tried freehanding. I like how it came out too. At first it was just the legs but I thought it looked a bit awkward so I commited to the script and stuck it all over. I don't know what to put on the loincloth if anything at all.

>>96062693
why do people shit on pink and blue horrors for being old? They're pretty cute desu

>>96061258
is that snakebite leather? looks like it. It's a very nice paint but it is very blotchy by design. You rarely need more than 1 application ever.

I would paint over the brown with a heavy grey then a lighter grey or white. like a clean slate for you to try again. Then put some of the contrast paint on your palette or pad. Dip your brush in then wick off the excess on a paper towel. I hope you weren't using a brush that was too small or big.
Anonymous No.96063763
>>96063746
Yeah the freehanding looks neat, gj
Anonymous No.96063773
>>96062430
>Makarov
Tokarev
Anonymous No.96063898 >>96063950 >>96064109 >>96065891
>>96062303
why would you do that instead of just gluing basically anything to the base to acculumale the heigh difference and basing around that
that poor model lived for 40 years only to end up being castrated by anon who wanted to find out fucking magnets how do they work
Anonymous No.96063899
>>96062045
I don't see that they'll be much use for painting women
Anonymous No.96063950 >>96063979
>>96063898
I actually agree with you. I just wanted opinions.
Anonymous No.96063979 >>96064132
>>96063950
cut it and pit it properly
>gluing basically anything to the base to acculumale the heigh difference and basing around that
this is ugly and lazy
Anonymous No.96064109 >>96064132
>>96063898
Why would anyone want to build a mound of cra on their base just to keep a stupid fucking tab on the mini? Are you concerned about it's resale value? Because that's retarded.
Anonymous No.96064132 >>96064222 >>96064261 >>96065891
>>96063979
>>96064109
that tab is 3-4mm in height
lets just cut it out for no reason
Anonymous No.96064222
>>96064132
It's useless filler material meant for obsolete slot bases.
Anonymous No.96064261 >>96064447
>>96064132
>having that one model with twice the base height (and bulky as fuck to hide the thing) as the rest of the (plastic) unit
yeah no thanks
Anonymous No.96064447 >>96064572 >>96064753
>>96064261
NTA I did it once with this chaos familiar as an experiment and it doesn't look really good.
Anonymous No.96064572 >>96065418 >>96071977
>>96064447
And even my cheap Greenstuff World saw could cut right through it with ease.
Anonymous No.96064753 >>96064771 >>96064782 >>96064858 >>96064894
>>96064447
I'm painting death guard rn, share your poop base recipe pls
Anonymous No.96064771 >>96067971
>>96064753
It's literally just Stirland Mud bathed in Agrax and some picrel drybrushed on top
Anonymous No.96064782 >>96064788
>>96064753
brown paint and some dark wash
thats about it
Anonymous No.96064788 >>96064875
>>96064782
retard
Anonymous No.96064803 >>96064830 >>96064946
Any patreons you guys would recommend for getting better / tutorials? Was thinking of Sergio Calvo.
Anonymous No.96064830
>>96064803
I don't think there are any patreons worth subscribing to unless you're looking to copy a scheme they're doing or something. You can learn everything you need using free videos and practicing
Anonymous No.96064858
>>96064753
looks more like a brownie to me
Anonymous No.96064875 >>96064970
>>96064788
not even kidding some people wash their bases too
Anonymous No.96064894
>>96064753
>poop base
Anonymous No.96064943 >>96065027 >>96065067 >>96065378
I’ve been priming all my minis in my basement on some newspaper with no mask or nothing is that bad or something? Like I don’t understand why people say they can’t prime because it’s too humid??? Don’t you live in a house/apartment? You can spray paint indoors and I even have a dehumidifier right beside where I prime
Anonymous No.96064946
>>96064803
There's no secret knowledge they can put behind a paywall, buy yourself a nice brush instead of giving money to some sloptuber
Anonymous No.96064970 >>96065056
>>96064875
Why wouldnt you wash bases if they need it?
Anonymous No.96065027 >>96066418
>>96064943
Have a nice nap anon
Anonymous No.96065056
>>96064970
well people have so many preferences when it comes to bases, some people do them before painting, some people use basing paint, others paint models separate alltogether, some flock theirs so the logical in between is just to base and wash them and call it a day
Anonymous No.96065067 >>96066418
>>96064943
enjoy your cancer.
Anonymous No.96065378
>>96064943
Overspray fears the indoor spray can power user.
Anonymous No.96065418 >>96065479
>>96064572
Problem fixed, goodbye poop brownie
Anonymous No.96065431
starting on my rohan.

though really, I am going to use them for any vague dark age saxon-frank-norse faction.
Anonymous No.96065479 >>96065498
>>96065418
well done anon
Anonymous No.96065498 >>96065621 >>96065864
>>96065479
No the original base was huge I should have taken better pictures. It really looked like a birthday cake and was at least 2mm high.
Anonymous No.96065621 >>96065632 >>96065815
>>96065498
what did you make that original poop mountain from anyway if you had to actually saw it off
Anonymous No.96065632
>>96065621
I didn't think it was that easy to remove desu and because of how small the familiar was, I thought it would damage the mini, and I didn't think making a poop mountain would look as bad as it did.
Anonymous No.96065815
>>96065621
My bad can't read
It was milliput and the pewter tab
Anonymous No.96065864 >>96065891
>>96065498
right now it looks like it's 3mm high
Anonymous No.96065891 >>96065934
>>96065864
Are you this guy >>96063898
>>96064132
Anonymous No.96065934 >>96065950 >>96066065
>>96065891
No but a gw base is something like 4mm in height and the current mound looks almost equal to that in height so your previous mound had to have been 6-8mm for any change you've made here to be meaningful.
Anonymous No.96065950 >>96065960 >>96066065 >>96067005
>>96065934
GW base are 2mm high, some anon earlier mentioned pewter tabs are at least 3mm high,
I sawed off the old mound + pewter tab a bit under the robe but didn't go closer not to damage the paintjob. He's much shorter now.
Anonymous No.96065960 >>96065994
>>96065950
You are mistaken, I just measured one, 4mm.
Anonymous No.96065994
>>96065960
You're right. Poop mound was much higher still, never got to measure it though.
Anonymous No.96066065 >>96066132 >>96067005
>>96065934
>>96065950
lets find out then
year ago i had a literal oven meltdown white metal vs pewter just so settle an /wip/ argument
before that i proved you can basecoat just fine outside in -30 celsius
Anonymous No.96066132
>>96066065
So i sawed his tab in half or so, seems accurate.
Proper basing will still look better than a chocolat cake.
Anonymous No.96066418 >>96066425 >>96069176
>>96065027
>>96065067
I don’t sit around huffing paint I just pray a few minis in the basement and go upstairs. How is that detrimental to anything? Do you nighas wear helmets when you go for a walk or what??
Anonymous No.96066425
>>96066418
Yes.
Anonymous No.96066509 >>96067068
Nearly done with the myrmidons.
Anonymous No.96067005 >>96067936
>>96065950
Modern bases are 4mm, I had a slotted 25mm base that I measured to 3.5mm, so there might be some variation. Made me get up and find my caliper.

>>96066065
I've basecoated successfully in -20 several times, I don't get where the superstition about temperature comes from. There is an actual issue with humidity though, all paints have an upper limit before humidity will affect it. At the very least if there's condensation forming on the mini as you spray you're going to have spots that look different. I still think that anons exaggerate it though.
Anonymous No.96067068 >>96067401 >>96067724 >>96072624
>>96066509
Did you vanquish the Mibble-Pibbledies?
Anonymous No.96067401
>>96067068
kek
Anonymous No.96067724 >>96067760
>>96067068
I do not recognize this season of black adder.
Anonymous No.96067760 >>96069132
>>96067724
https://youtu.be/nfYx_013UuY
Anonymous No.96067936
>>96067005
>There is an actual issue with humidity though, all paints have an upper limit before humidity will affect it
pretty sure ive done that too by accident, my balcony greenhouse never prevented me from priming
it never killed any of my plants either
Anonymous No.96067971 >>96070776
>>96064771
why is this image a meme?
Anonymous No.96068000 >>96068975
>>96058682
idk if the st george cross is too "on the nose". Altho that mini is cool, it would be way cooler if it was a different color or slightly different design or something to make it unique. Just me tho. When I was a kid I painted the st george cross all over my tau because I thought england doing well in football was cool.
Anonymous No.96068112 >>96068354 >>96068355
finishing up this knight of the realm
Anonymous No.96068236 >>96068975
>>96058682
>Fire Angels
Patrician choice of chapter right there
Anonymous No.96068343 >>96070980
>>96058076
So if I'm reading correctly the far right was your best result?
Anonymous No.96068354
>>96068112
Would put my panties on his lance as he rides past my seat.
Anonymous No.96068355
>>96068112
Nice
Anonymous No.96068975
>>96068000
I had the same thought when I was finishing him but the chapter badge is a red crosslet so I'm hoping he'll blend in with the rest of the army. They're meant to read as temu templars.

>>96062605
>>96068236
Ty, lads
Anonymous No.96069096 >>96069104
>>96057372
No
Prob the most retarded thing since slapchop
Anonymous No.96069103 >>96069180
>>96057857
It would be better without it, looks too busy
Anonymous No.96069104 >>96069180
>>96069096
Why?
Anonymous No.96069115
>>96057898
You mean recasts?
Get a sample from a few different stores.
Anonymous No.96069132
>>96067760
Unfortunate, I was hoping I had somehow missed an entire season of space based black adder.
Anonymous No.96069139 >>96069904
>>96058360
Resin has its advantages
And most recasters cast the sprue these days, not full minis
Anonymous No.96069149 >>96071586
>>96060358
Isn't this stuff for model cars so you can polish panels and make them look ultra ultra gloss?
Anonymous No.96069166
>>96058360
Most of the 3D printed minis I've bought have come in parts, they just aren't on a sprue. I think sculptors and printers are moving in that direction because it just has way more benefits.
Anonymous No.96069176
>>96066418
Anon you need minimum an engineered biohazard lab with a airlock to prime indoors, and while a self contained suit and grade 4 oxygen scrubbers are recommended they aren't necessary
Anonymous No.96069180
>>96069104
See>>96069103
Anonymous No.96069191 >>96069199 >>96069893
>>96057898
I'd be careful with AliExpress, shipments from there haven't been making it to me at all this year and they are starting to refuse to refund me. Their support email is fake and the bot you talk to on the site is useless.
Anonymous No.96069199 >>96069270
>>96069191
>starting to refuse to refund me
lol nice try james
Anonymous No.96069270 >>96069433 >>96069660
>>96069199
I'm not James, my refund request was declaired Invalid for some reason and now I'm currently having to wait 30 days for a final decision... First and second order that failed to deliver I got a refund within 3 days. 3rd I had to wait a week. Looks like the 4th might be granted.
Anonymous No.96069433
>>96069270
I once went through this with ebay, they refused to refund me for something that was never delivered.
So I went to my bank and demanded the transaction be reversed because it was theft, and then I had a stop order placed on ebay.
Anonymous No.96069660
>>96069270
Bro you said they are starting to refuse to refund you
You got refunded in 3 days twice... Now prob got flagged doing it the third time and a human needs to look at it, doubt GW would be any better
Also what kind of moron orders a third time after the first times got stopped?
Anonymous No.96069893
>>96069191
In what 3rd world shit hole do you live? AliExpress is on par with Amazon in terms of reliability here in Germany.
Anonymous No.96069904
>>96069139
It totally depends on what you buy tho:
If I buy an old metal mini recast, I obviously will get a complete mini. If I buy the newest kill team, I get sprues, and if I buy something from forge world, I get individual pieces without a sprue.
Anonymous No.96069969
>>96047711
Horribly over exposed photo but I've painted up a leaper. I was batch painting all three of them but I kind of forgot and accidently finished one instead.
Anonymous No.96070062 >>96070136
Working on the boyz
Anonymous No.96070136
>>96070062
That is one of the blurriest pictures I have seen.
Anonymous No.96070480 >>96070679 >>96070766
The quest to paint a good face continues
Anonymous No.96070679 >>96070766
>>96070480
I don't know hows your brush control but adding some more shading around the eyes would make them look a LOT better, right now they kinda look like they're about to pop out. Rest of the face is nice though as far as I can see
Anonymous No.96070766
>>96070480
This anon is right >>96070679
Ideally you want to paint the eye black first and keep a bit of it around it kind of like eyeliner when you paint the white in.

Also working on my dinobot.
Anonymous No.96070776
>>96067971
Because she looks like her name is Gorthor Brown (Lawyer)
Anonymous No.96070933 >>96071019
Has anyone here used Kimera Kolors? I'm thinking of picking up a yellow and red from them, but I've not used single pigment paints before - at least not knowingly. If so, how are they?
Anonymous No.96070980
>>96068343
Pretty much, yes. But Vallejo Mecha Color matte varnish with flow improver is close second, probably cheaper solution too.
Anonymous No.96071019 >>96078775
>>96070933

I have the original set. They are good, they basically took artist grade paints and made them more diluted for miniature painting. They are also less satin/shiny than artist grade paints made for canvas.

Single pigment has pros and cons. The colors are saturated because you don't have white or grey paint mixed into them, but the drawback then is also that certain pigments have shit coverage/opacity, so you will have to do lots of layers (or add white or grey into them for example). For the longest time miniature painters have had the idea that opacity = good grade paint, which isn't true. Kimeras mix predictably, again because they are single pigment. Some of the colors need lots of shaking in the bottles to combat the separation.
Anonymous No.96071074
>>96058317
If you're a mega autist who lives and dies by his dictionary and not by observing reality, sure.
Anonymous No.96071209 >>96071633 >>96071716 >>96071961
>>96050962
When DIY making acrylic washes is there such a thing as too much flow aid?
I'm thinking that maybe excessive flow aid might be my solution to getting a wash effect like when speedpaint medium is mixed with ArmyPainter washes.
>example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6cbOrVnD3Y&t=368s

What could happen if there is too much flow aid?
Anonymous No.96071282
>>96058139
I liketo use it for the bases. It's clearly darker than your usual black paint but the texture also looks weird if used with other paints
Anonymous No.96071586 >>96071616
>>96069149
You mean polish compound? No, that mr. color is vanish
Anonymous No.96071616 >>96071627 >>96071628
>>96071586
>polish compound?
i think it's japanese
Anonymous No.96071627
>>96071616
Anonymous No.96071628
>>96071616
What?
Anonymous No.96071633
>>96071209
I think there is an ingredient that contrast, speedpaint, and Xpress Color and the new AK contrast paints all have in common that is not flow aid but is missing from your concoctions.
But I can't for the life of me find it even with googling. Would love to know what it is, WIP.
Anonymous No.96071716 >>96071846
>>96071209
>What could happen if there is too much flow aid?

In general terms when added to paint you'll run into problems with the paint adhering to the surface because all the paint's inherent "tackiness" is effectively negated , in wash terms though this isn't an issue so the only real problem would be diluting the colour too much same as with too much water/medium.
Anonymous No.96071727 >>96071846
>acrylic washes this
>acrylic washes that
I don't wanna force you to do anything, but you should try oil washes.
Anonymous No.96071846 >>96071893
>>96071716
Thanks I'll try my batch again but with a carefully placed amount of extra flow aid.
I've been running around across threads asking for feedback/advice in my quest to make acrylic washes. I think I added to many black drops when I saw that the ultra matte medium seems to "lighten" the black wash a bit.
>>96071727
>but you should try oil washes.
I do a lot of cooking and have pets so I want to avoid using toxic stuff as much as I can.
Anonymous No.96071893
>>96071846
oil washes are not some big outlay to try out. a tube of any old dark brown or black oil paint and mineral spirits which cost next to fuck all.
Anonymous No.96071961 >>96072259
>>96071209
I've found that if you add too much flow aid the paint can take days to dry
Anonymous No.96071977
>>96064572
you dont even need a saw, bend it a few times and it will break by itself, then just file or cut the little remains if any
Anonymous No.96072134 >>96072178 >>96073402
Sponge painting is fun (but grainy).
Anonymous No.96072178 >>96072192
>>96072134
>(but grainy)
use more medium?
Anonymous No.96072192 >>96072199
>>96072178
I overthin it with water already, maybe it's the problem with application (when I tap the sponge, it leave tiny fragmented drops so maybe that's why).
Anonymous No.96072199
>>96072192
Try using medium instead of water, and then dab away all the excess paint before applying the sponge. Try using it when the sponge has barely any color on it, and build the paint in layers.
Anonymous No.96072259
>>96071961
Wait really?
How did you find this out?
Anonymous No.96072624
>>96067068
There's got to be a way to kitbash Sci-Fi Blackadder. What bits could be used for it?
Anonymous No.96072836 >>96073093
>>96046927
You need it if you're spraying enamels, lacquer, acrylics that containt MBIT or BIT like inks. You don't really need it if you're just spraying acrylics unless you're doing it for hours at the time 5 days a week. I used to use a respirator for acrylics but now I don't bother.
Anonymous No.96073093 >>96074690
>>96072836
>You don't really need it if you're just spraying acrylics
you still kinda do if you don't have a paint booth with active exhaust and unless you want to breathe in paint dust on the regular
I had an airbrush sesh without a mask once (I usually spray inside a cardboard box) and when I went to bathroom to blow my nose later that day, it came out paint-colored
I already most likely have enough microplastics in me as is, I'd rather not coat the inside of my lungs with them over time
Anonymous No.96073402
>>96072134
Isn't graininess (texture) the entire reason to use sponge stippling?
Anonymous No.96073496 >>96073621 >>96073785
Not sure how to continue from this point
Anonymous No.96073621
>>96073496
add a final dot of white in each eye and just call it done
Anonymous No.96073785 >>96073803
>>96073496
Also just realized the green looks quite pale in the post but not so much in the original photo. Why is that? Does 4chan put a color profile on the pictures?
Anonymous No.96073803 >>96073851 >>96073956
>>96073785
no two monitors are going to display photos quite the same.
Your own eye is always to be trusted above any opinions shared here as regards hue, shadows and highlights.
Anonymous No.96073851 >>96073923
>>96073803
Nah I'm seeing the picture from the post and the picture I posted in the windows app on the same monitor at the same time and the green is paler online.
Anonymous No.96073923
>>96073851
Yes, digital images are unreliable deending both on hardware and software configurations, not all image viewing programs use the same decoding.
Anonymous No.96073956 >>96074079 >>96074080
>>96073803
>he thinks eyes are any more trustworthy than screens
Anonymous No.96074079
>>96073956
Because screens bypass the eye, right?
Anonymous No.96074080
>>96073956
Spoken like a true binoclard
Anonymous No.96074145 >>96074162
How can screens be real if our eyes aren't real?
Anonymous No.96074162 >>96074217 >>96074279
>>96074145
Reality is a literal meme, you're all a product of my imagination and there's no way to prove otherwise
Anonymous No.96074203
How do you know two people who look at the same mini see exactly the same colors?
Colorblindness is a real thing for instance.
Anonymous No.96074217
>>96074162
Who is you if we are all (You)?
Anonymous No.96074279
>>96074162
Can you imagine me better please? Give me motivation to get my damn backlog painted
Anonymous No.96074337 >>96074361
>Have a spare marine model that I've had laying around in case I need it
>Decide to finally use it on a unit that I don't actually need it for but would be nice to have
>While prepping it my knife slips and I fuck my finger up pretty badly
Is this a sign that I should continue to hold onto it? Have I been punished for jumping the gun and there will be a superior project for it in the future?
Anonymous No.96074361 >>96074459
>>96074337
Nah, you're just clumsy
Anonymous No.96074459 >>96074476
>>96074361
Oh yes, extremely
Anonymous No.96074476 >>96074514
>>96074459
Same, I've got the dyspraxia. This hobby helped me actually get some eye/hand coordination
Anonymous No.96074514
>>96074476
Rough, glad the hobby has helped you.
I just don't have any knowledge of where my body is.
I walk into door jambs because my shoulder isn't there
Holding a knife? I don't know it's there if I'm not looking at it. So if I look up I'm no longer holding a knife and have no idea where my hand is.
Anonymous No.96074522
As a bonus mentioned yesterday, I tested if gouache varnish (thinned with white spirit) will work on minis and surprisingly it does. It definitely is there as I can feel the difference under fingers but aside from very subtle matte effect on surface, it barely change surface it was applied to. Maybe if I would use it in less thinned form (in my case it was 50-50) that would change but producer (Talens) claims it can only occasionally darken some shades but should otherwise have no other effect other than forming protective layer. So, this seems like option too.
Anonymous No.96074549 >>96074643 >>96074669
Kestrel force are finally painted and varnished then so they need bases now. Lore-wise they are all operating on arid/desert planet but do you have some more interesting ideas than "standard" desert bases? Or I just lack imagination here and "desert" actually offers quite wide options?
Anonymous No.96074643
>>96074549
You've got a couple of options for arid bases that aren't just sandy deserts. You could go for a scorched red dusty look or salt flats
Anonymous No.96074669
>>96074549
There's more to desert than just "zandri dust"
https://imgur.com/a/badlands-volcanic-desert-hPyomhP
Anonymous No.96074690
>>96073093
You should but I wouldn't worry too much about it. I can feel my nose is a little stuffy as well after a session
Anonymous No.96075167 >>96075207 >>96075253 >>96076085 >>96076923
i think im done with the red, painting cloaks is hard
Anonymous No.96075207 >>96075983
>>96075167
turned out pretty nice. dunno what's going on here though
Anonymous No.96075253
>>96075167
Looks great anon. Don't worry, with some practice you'll start to enjoy painting cloth and fabric
Anonymous No.96075479 >>96075689 >>96076252
my knife handle broke again. they don't make cheap chinese shit like they used to.
Anonymous No.96075689
>>96075479
I'm still using a scalpel from the 90's. Unbreakable bit of stainless steel, just switch out the heads.
Anonymous No.96075983
>>96075207
that just shine from the light, the barnish will even it out
Anonymous No.96076085
>>96075167
Goddamn that's nice. I'll have to save this for cloaks and clothe because I just have no idea what to do with them despite watching like 20 videos on them.
Anonymous No.96076252
>>96075479
O L F A
D E S I G N K N I F E
Being able to use snap off blades one segment at a time means you can be profligate with sharp new ones. Best $20 I have spent on a hobby tool. 900 replacement blades should last the rest of my life.
Anonymous No.96076481
I fucking hate priming. And I especially hate priming white.
Anonymous No.96076550 >>96077427
New attempt at painting volumes
Would get a better pic but the power went out
Since the eyes and crest are blue I pulled out the old vallejo flat blue for the base and I just can't stand it. Won't move off the brush and refuses to thin to the right consistency
It sucks cause the color's perfect but it never works properly.
Anonymous No.96076718 >>96076730
Scifi twilight knight about where I want it to be. Laser sword could have been better but I'm not sure how to do it
Anonymous No.96076730
>>96076718
I also found out I had assembled a copy of this model 10 years ago and never painted it, leaving me with an unpainted duplicate of an already-done model. I don't like having assembled but unpainted models around, so I decided to paint the duplicate up.

I think I got the skin marginally better this time around (new on left, old on right)
Anonymous No.96076923
>>96075167
brush strokes look gorgeous bro
Anonymous No.96077003
New thread:

>>96076966
>>96076966
>>96076966
Anonymous No.96077427
>>96076550
Have you tried a drop of glaze medium 8nstead of water? I've found that a way to get finicky paints to behave.
Anonymous No.96078775
>>96071019
Sorry for the late reply, I appreciate the information. I think I'll grab a yellow, I've been eyeing the paints for ages now and they're on a bit of a sale, so why not