Work in Progress, "Men of Rohan" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5Df191WJ3o

>Previous Threads:
>>96106935
>>96076966
>>96043838
>>96021179

>tfw you realize you have 9 browns

>>96143531
Good. Brown is easily the most used colour in mini painting I think. There's always leather and wood to paint and I'm always mixing browns into colours to give them a more earthy feel. Also it's the colour of poo and poo is funny.

Anyone have any ideas what I should do with the space left around the base on this? Since it's just a bust, I was going to paint it black or grey and leave it since it's already sort of abstracted. I'm thinking now though that I could probably paint some blues there and cover bits of it with snow powder. Might even put some UV resin over it to make it look like ice. Might give the impression that he's breaking out of the ice.

>>96143572
Thinned white resin over water to make it look like the dragon is bursting through lake ice, if you really want to be extra you can have more chunks of ice like it's fracturing.

Using metal for damage wasn't a good choice
I think I overdid it with damage on the whole
Still like how it's turning out though

>>96143805
Add a thin glaze of the color you want to bring it down to or a bit of grey, it'll tone down the metallic and make it look a bit more like chipping. You've got a lot of texture though, need to thin it out a bit.

Need an opinion lads. I'm going to oil wash the various teeth to show the gaps, but after that should I shade anything else?

>>96144089
I think it could be a bit more vibrant. Like pinker highlights. Get out the fluorescent paints or inks. The blue fire also looks a bit random. There's dark and lightspots just sort of all over. Might be worth looking at some more examples of how lighting works on fire.

This is the biggest miniature I've painted, going to paint the interior next.

Finished the objective markers last night.

>>96143805
Metal damage by itself visually works best on dark colours, but you can also use it on bright ones and make it interesting if you create some sort of contrast around it, ex a lighter damage effect/highlight in a brown/dark colour surrounding the metallic dent

Post your "Magnum Opus"!
The miniature that came out the very best to date, your most favorite paintjob in your collection.
For me, it's this bugger. I am extremely happy with how it came out, for my standarts it turned out very clean and sleek. I painted him towards the end of my painted minis lineup, quite a lot came before him but also a good half dozen came after him and nobody turned out remotely as good. Which is kinda frustrating desu. I don't know what I did different and why I still struggle so hard, I was able to paint him like this, but I was never able to replicate it.

>>96144481
What are you struggling to replicate? It kind of just looks like you base coated it. You haven't even painted the buckle yet. He's cool, but he needs more of your love to be your magnum opus. Get some highlights in there and finish painting his belts and buckles. With how his head is shaped, it's an easy target for drybrushing as well, which will be a cheap easy way to add a lot of depth to his head.

>>96141778
based and snek pilled
>>96142237
For the "white metal" chrome effect I'm using citadel stormhost silver

I suppose I should post in here too. Always been posting these in /40kg/.

I did my spiders up to where I can prime them. Stuff will be in the mail, no idea of what I'm painting them as.
>40k tyranid army made of D&D spider models all pinned, sprue glued abdomens to hide the hairy parts, legs re-angled because many were bent and some broken ones, genestealers made from human fodder models AND A FEW WERE MISSING but it's together
>120 Hormagaunts, 30 Genestealers, Broodlord, 18 Ryans Leapers, eventually 3 daddy longleg "Neurolictors"

>>96144569
>40k army made with anything but official 40k models
I sure hope you have friends to play with, and if you do, why aren't you playing better cheaper games anyway? Also aren't those D&D models already primed? If you want a good prime, you usually have to strip them first and prime them yourself.

>>96144584
No these models aren't the ready to paint ones. They are all called ready to paint, but the primed ones are the newer generation stuff.

I'm at least 40 minutes from the nearest game store and I haven't played since 2005. This army costed me 340 bucks or so. I have official models too, I just need to get to them eventually.
>I did projects like this back in the day all the time
>these 12 starter boxes will be 4 armies when I'm done, all 2000-6000 points worth
>got them for 87 dollars a box, that's 11 dollars "per box kit" inside
Models are just legos to me.

>>96144594
Yeah it's cool, but like there's no way a store is gonna let you use those in a 40k game. Then again, I don't play 40k, so that's just hearsay. I definitely wouldn't invest in a custom army before figuring that out though.

>>96144608
What drew me back was the possible army I could make on america's first choice of a nerdy game that they probably play already.
D&D is more popular than 40k in the USA. So I presume someone may play with me. I won't be going to the only GW store in the area with them.

Working on my demon prince, waiting for the oil to dry so I can varnish. Gonna finish up my skullcrushers in the meantime

>>96144569
Now you just need a friend with an EDF-style army

>>96144608
Why would any hobby store care what he brings to a gaming table? Some of the people might care, but the store manager?

>>96144800
I dunno, I've heard bad things about 40k players in public groups. It's either LOS rules with your modified model or them getting mad because they spent thousands on their army, so you should have to as well or just blind company loyalty. Again though, never played. Maybe most don't give a shit. I imagine if it's a smaller community they definitely wouldn't and would just be happy to play with someone.

>>96144800
GW store would care

>>96144796
Gnarly as fuck, for some reason everyone is working on their daemon prince lately

>>96143312 (OP)
What kind of cheapass gayming chair are you guys using? My back is killing me. I wonder if something like this could help.

>>96145013
DX racer from the first generation from like 15 years ago. I told myself to buy a new, proper, chair once it breaks, but it's just sturdy as fuck.

>>96145013
There are three things that will help you.
>get an actual chair that makes you sit correctly and provide correct support.
>start exercising you lazy fuck
>make an appointment with a physiotherapist
More chink plastic garbage won't help you, nor will a new gaming chair.

As far as good chairs go, Herman Miller Aeron is the usual get go. You can get a refurbished one fairly cheap, new ones are fucking expensive, though.

>>96145013
Moving to a ~$300 ergo mesh office chair from a wooden chair was nice.
Buying an insert to remedy a bad chair seems a poor solution.
Start stretching. Watch some videos and do some posture shit daily. Takes no time to do and you just have to make it a routine.

>>96145013
get one of those knee chairs if you have back problems

having a higher table could also help, i lift mine some while painting so i dont bend too much

Guys I think I might be too autistic for this hobby. I literally cannot fathom the concept of batch painting / tabletop ready. I prime one mini at a time and then paint it for 3 - 4 days until it's up to my standards. Then sometimes I look at the finished product, I don't like it for some retarded reason, like I'm not feeling one shade of brown I used for boot strap highlight, so I strip it and start again.

>>96144481
i think that's this little guy, hard to tell as i have so many dwarfs in the collection

>>96143312 (OP)
What is the best and most comfortable type of magnifying glasses?

>>96145013
>cheapass
>my back is killing me
Invest in something good anon.

>>96145164
As long as you have fun.

>>96145164
Same, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve stripped this thing, and it’s still not done

>>96144481
i like this guy a lot
at some point i have to decide on an army icon(s) and put it on the banner tho

lookin for a bit of feedback on these fellas

>>96145337
close up

Are FDM printers capable of anything relevant to miniatures?
Like I know I can't do minis on one, but I don't want to fuck about with resin.

>>96145390
terrain (some, and depending on your tolerance to layer lines), and tools

>>96145337
look great, i assume you play HH ? the many checker and helmet freehand looks top tier; i don't have much feedback outside of increasing your contrast, but if you give them light colored bases it doesn't matter

>>96145390
Vehicles, bases, terrain in general.

Hey guys, do you have a good guide for shield scratches and damage? I want to improve my current ability.

>>96145602
>>96145612
Why not use HMB/Buhurt pics as a reference?

>>96145624
No, I mean how to paint it.

>>96145390
not really
you could, but even then by the time a fdm printer proonts a single piece, a resin printer can shit out the entire plate full of plastic

>>96145602
every scratch should have at least two colors, the color under the scratch usually metal, black or very dark, and the highlight of the border

>>96144796
Turning out splendidly, oil wash is magic.

Working on a new guard regiment. Do the berets work or would the original age of sigmar helmets be better?

>>96145602
I think seventh son has a video on how to do shields and weathering.

This is what I call a full English breakfast.

>>96145740
Proper English fry-up?

>>96145164
>I prime one mini at a time and then paint it for 3 - 4 days until it's up to my standard
I do the same and take even longer (2+ weeks) for bigger projects. I don't think it's anything particularly autistic in this hobby. please tell me it's not
>I don't like it for some retarded reason, like I'm not feeling one shade of brown I used for boot strap highlight, so I strip it and start again
This however might be taking it a tiny bit too far lol. Then again, as long as you're actually enjoying the process I don't see anything wrong with this either tbdesu.
>>96144481
>Magnum Opus
You know I'm actually not sure. Maybe this girl?

>>96145717
berets for some, metal pot helms for others

>>96145783
That looks grim

>>96145390
I run an A1 Mini and I'm happy with the quality of what it puts out. Mind you I'm doing a single 28mm scale mini over 2 or so hours with some mild custom adjustments to the parameters but I've gotten to that point after only two weeks of doing one or two prints a day. You can still see layer lines if you're looking at high def phone photos but in person it's almost invisible after painting it. Depending on what filament you're using you can knock the layer lines off with exposure to acetone fumes or a brief blast with a heat gun but that's an extra level of effort I haven't felt the need to do, yet.

>>96145390
I have a bambu A1, but I only use it for churning out terrain and movement trays. Resin really isn't as big a deal as you're making out with some basic precautions, and a half-way organised cleaning setup. Because the only limiting factor in terms of time is the build height you can crank out an unholy amount of stuff.

>>96145912
just like living in br*tain

>>96144481
It's probably one customized swordbro I spent a lot of time on, I was quite satisfied with it at the time, although I think Helbrecht is my most popular model. It's hard for me to define my very best one desu

>>96145164
That's fine I do the same, although usually I strip bits from sub assembly not the entire model

>>96145740
I remember some of those early XVc lads you were posting, really nice to seem them together

>>96145783

>>96145717

>>96145783
English breakfast is fucking underrated.
>Eggs
literally the best thing on this planet you can have for a breakfast. The fact it's just the whites makes it even better.
>beans
An okayish protein source, cheap, all around solid nutrition.
>coffee
A classic, but you should be doing it in moderation and only if you need it, not proactively.

Get rid of all that fried pork garbage, replace white bread for dark, full grain one, and you are having a 9/10 breakfast that's healthier than most shit people usually eat.

What are some recommendations on simple bases? I'm new to the hobby and finished painting the minis for my first warband but am completely stuck on the bases. I have some green and brown flock but I don't know how it would look with just one of those on a base. I'm tempted to just break out a brown and paint all of the bases that but am not sure.

>>96146189
Any pics? Sounds interesting.

>>96146236
I dunno, man. The chemical's toxic, the fumes are toxic, they linger. I just don't think it's worth it.

>>96146598
>they linger
Ur mom lingers on my dick.

>>96146570
texture paste, wash, drybrush, done.

Just realized that magnetizing complexe resin models made pulling them off the tray very dangerous

>>96144481
I really like this fire wizard, I think I had a great idea with the nerdy flame shirt

>>96146598
Sure, I've posted these before but I've got three models done; I'm in the winter months or I'd have painted more by now. I have a growing backlog that I'm looking forward to doing up once I can tolerate leaving my room for hours at a time.

First is an Observer from Trench Crusade. You can see the layer lines on the cloak from the rear if you zoom in but in person I genuinely have difficulty spotting the layer lines.

>>96146887
Another aspect is the price on these; minis of this size cost me less than 10 cents in filament and power which really appeals to me since previously I liked Reaper Minis, which have shot up to $7 per mini or more locally.

>>96146897
Next up, a Plague Hound also from Trench Crusade I believe. Layer lines are slightly visible on the front shoulders in photos but again, very hard to see in person. I've done zero post-processing to all of my minis besides basic support removal and snipping flashing off.

>>96146878
These guys are so soulful

>>96146908
Another part that appeals to me is that there's a lot less 'cost paralysis' in terms of experimenting and not being afraid to fuck up a model. If I fuck it, all I've genuinely lost is time.

>>96146918
Lastly there's this thing which I think was assembled from multiple individual prints labelled as 'teleport spell effects' or something similar. If I printed this again I think I'd actually want more layer lines because combined with the mirror paint I used it creates some very pleasing visual effects.

>>96146929
I've printed a lot of other stuff since but it's all in stages of being painted and it's 3 AM, so I'll refrain from waking up my roommates just to take photos of all the other stuff I've got waiting for now. If there's interest I can take photos of the stuff without paint in the morning to show off what they look like.

I'm going to try to paint a leopard cape. Any fool-proof advice before I start?

>>96146947
thin your paints

>>96145247
You might want to strip it again, I see a mold line

>>96145602
I would also consider stains along with scratches, from old battles or fresh ones not washed yet.
Another advanced tech could be mismatched paint splotches, from paint jobs without matching the paint

>>96145783
Tf is ribena?

>>96146598
if you were only printing miniatures, and you'd limit yourself to only printing new shit until the current batch is painted then you're not talking very many of hours of printing time in a given week. Printing 50 miniatures takes as much time as printing 1 (assuming they're the same height) since the whole X Y is flashed by the UV simultaneously. Don't think precautions need to escalate beyond decent ventilation and a half mask with filters that can deal with VOCs.

>>96146570
Never buy gw texture paste, though.

>>96147080
>9 paints for a base

>>96146947
A little bit of khaki mixed with moo yellow makes a good wash before spotting it

>>96144144
Coooool!

Reposting for feedback

>>96147013
https://youtu.be/HOqhRr0E0yk

>>96147162
grainy/10

Same with these two in progress

Dead game
Dead general

>>96147224
wrong thread?

>>96147257
no

>>96147162
>>96147178
Are you using your default camera app for these and are you zooming in on them with said app?

>>96147224
>>96147261
The game of working in progress is dead?

>>96147224
the faster a thread goes the worse its quality

>>96147304
yes
it's over

>>96147389
roll for regeneration

>>96146887
Thanks for all the pics. They're a lot better than I expected, to be honest.

>>96147584
Thanks; I'd argue I make them look worse because my painting skills are mediocre. I'll post some other shots later on of the unpainted or just primed stuff.

It's why I don't really like the nay-sayers about where FDM sits in terms of mini production right now. A lot of people do get bad results from their minis but it's because they're not optimising their output. It's admittedly a bit of a mish-mash between citizen science and experimentation at times though. For example, I spent the first half of my printing using the tree support methods because everyone said they're superior in every way, only to discover the normal supports have far better results for me.

I also can't speak to any other printer models, only for my A1 Mini since that's all I've used, but I'm happy enough with the results from my own printer to be of the opinion that putting minis on the table is now within the realm of totally doable.

>>96146779
Just grab the base dummy

>>96147080
What's the way to get the official base look?
There's some secret sauce.

Basecoat: Mournfang Brown
Drybrush: Zamesi Desert or Balor Brown
Drybrush: Ushabti Bone

I just can't ever get it looking just right.

>>96147658
>There's some secret sauce
Lighting and digital touch-ups

>>96147177
>>96147298
I'm using the opencamera app, but I did zoom in on it a bit. I didn't think it was noticable desu

>>96147657
I guess it's better to repaint the rim every couple games than to break something

>>96147744
uhh varnish?

>>96147750
From my experience varnish on rims get off easily with nails

>>96147723
I'd suggest not zooming in with the camera app and instead holding your camera at the appropriate distance to show detail. When you zoom in it makes it a lot harder to see details because the way phone camera zoom works, you're not actually getting a 'closer' and more 'detailed' view of the thing you're shooting; you're actually just getting the equivalent of increasing scale and then cropping everything else.

Try taking those photos again but next time have the camera close enough that it's showing the same level of detail as however much you zoomed it in by. That'll help a lot in not having such grainy photos which in turn means that everyone else can actually see the details and offer opinions.

>>96147723
do this >>96147868
also go to settings>processing settings> noise reduction algorithm, and make sure is 'default' or 'high quality' or try both

What would be the best way to reproduce this shiny chrome scheme?

>>96147932
chrome paint?

>>96147952
No, extensive NMM is the way to go.

>>96147971
based

>>96147971
>shiny
>nmm
choose one

>>96147932
Vallejo Metal Color

>>96147658
Photoshop. Photoshop is the secret sauce.

>>96147080
Why all jungle bases I find suck dick? It can't be that hard, right?

>>96148126
How? They post 360 views.

Progress on the yellow team

>>96148185
>take pictures from most angles
>produce a few dozens of pictures
>use PS batch processing
>combine into a 360 view
>???
>profit
The post-processing is a work that probably take less than an hour, and that's with creating the automated action in PS, since I would say it's probably different for every mini.

>>96147932
MOLOTOW, but it is not cheap. Otherwise, specialty lacquers through an airbrush.

>>96145342
the highlights and layers are getting a bit chalky, I'd say you need to water down your paint a smidge and be okay with going over some of it again twice, or be aware that if it's hot where you're painting your paint may be drying on the brush. I'm looking at mainly the close-up-guy's orange highlight on his helmet stripe and the other guy's bone colored checkered shield. They're perfectly fine and cool though, and a base would make them come alive.

>>96147932
>>96148270
You can get these mirror ink pens for like $2 each off of Temu. Granted it's almost certainly going to give you cancer but it's a much cheaper option.

>>96148270
>lacquers

>>96147932
I'd say buy or check out the results online of some silver spray paint. Pick one that's to your liking of silver chromeyness and then most of the work is done for you (or airbrush).
Or I would probably copy what this guy did https://illuminatorhobby.wordpress.com/2018/03/30/the-knights-resplendent-an-experiment-with-chrome/ (image related) "I found the secret weapon in the form of a paint marker from legendary graffiti brand Molotow: the Liquid Chrome (20 Years Edition) Marker. "
Or go insane doing NMM chrome (by the way if you had an airbrush couldn't you do NMM chrome really easily by just spraying the blue sky colors from above?)

>>96148388
NTA, but please stop being retarded.

>>96148328
You may find this crazy, but some people actually prefer to buy things not made in China. In fact, actively avoid it.

>>96148392
So sexy...

>>96146908
what're you painting dear? oh just a dog with a testicular tumor

>>96148407
You may find this crazy, but the thing you're paying a premium for is made in China and then sold on through double digits of middlemen before it ever reaches your hands.

Unless the money you're handing off goes directly into the hands of the person that built/made the thing you're buying, your moralizing over where anything comes from is an entirely empty endeavor. But if you wanna drop $20 on a single mirror pen, go off king.

>>96148200
Yellow is tuff to make look good at a distance, good on you.
Mustard yellow for the mustard gas boys!
>you are gassing the enemies of Mankind, right, anon?
>not like that /k/ anon from years ago tho
>that is too much zealotry

>>96148495
Are Molotow really just chinese crap though?...

>>96148495
Get the fuck outta here, craftsperg.

>>96148519
Of course not, they are made in Germany. They even offer refills and make a lot of their containers to last, and provide all the other services that are quintessentially alien to chinks.

>>96148555
Checked, but also nothing is made in the West anymore because that other board told me so.

>>96148388
He said best. I offered the best, problem?

>>96148495
Molotow is made in Germany. You may find this just as crazy, but strict EU regulations can actually benefit the consumer.
That and the ability to do basic research. Stop being dense.

>>96148555
Think I'll stay, thanks. You're welcome to burn your money however you want, since you earned it. I choose to spend my money how I like and I'll always let people know if they can get the same things for cheaper.

What's your incentive for shilling for some German company? Do you get a kickback or do you just enjoy the taste of a corporate boot?

>>96148585
>goalposts shifted
please leave

>>96148600
You first.

>>96148583
That still doesn't address why you'd pay $20 instead of a fraction of that for the same outcome. Does your dollar spent abroad mean more on the cosmic scale if it ends up in a German's hands instead of a Chinese person's? If it doesn't, why not save the money?

You're 100% right about research. I can get mirror pens from local retailers for $5 that aren't made in China. So again; why would I spend the $20 for German ones?

>>96148585
>What's your incentive for shilling for some German company?
I'm European, therefore I buy 1) from my local manufacturers first, and 2) from European manufacturers second.
That way, I get a much higher quality product, and I support local economy. I also know my stuff is not made by some retarded sweatshop mongoloid, and I'm not filling up the pockets of the mighty PRC.
Last (you), now go back to painting your bulges.

>>96148085
I choose both

>>96148658
I respect the artistry, but goddamn this is retarded.

>>96148658
What the actual fuck

>>96148658
I think he's done a few things like this.

>>96148651
That's a fair enough reason. I won't dispute funding local businesses. Have you actually bothered to compare the stuff put out by Molotow and other competitors though or do you just take it on faith that the higher price tag is demanded by presumptive higher quality?

>Last (you), now go back to painting your bulges.
Bulges? Huh?

>>96148649
I wonder how many more times do you need to be blown the fuck out before you finally stop sperging out about hobby products that cost next to nothing for anyone not living in abject poverty. Buy both an aliexpress and molotow marker, do an objective test that proves they're of the same quality, share it here and someone might take you seriously. Until then you're nothing more than an autistic shitposter and you need to fuck off. Don't bother replying.

Is it better to paint a dreadnought or Lancer first and then assemble? Or assemble first then paint?

>>96148727
>Have you actually bothered to compare the stuff put out by Molotow
Yes, I've spent about three years doing graffiti with cheap, often chink-made cans and pens. Molotow is better in every single aspect, it's not even on the same playing field. Not to mention the fact that once you buy their one4all system, and then you just refill/replace tips as you need; it ultimately comes out cheaper than buying chinkshit. Which is often the case with chinese-made items.

Speaking of graffiti stuff that can be also used in our hobby, Montana is a good alternative. Also made in Germany. Or NBQ (Spain).

>>96148739
Why are you so infuriated with how other people choose to spend their money? Why has this upset you so much? Feel free to reply and keep acting like a cunt I guess.

>>96148769
That's pretty good information to know. If you're doing graffiti with them and using them at enough of a scale you need the refills it sounds like a pretty decent deal then. Plus there's also the presumptive assurances that since it's made in the EU it's probably not going to give you gigacancer like the $2 specials I get from China but at this point it's kind of impossible to separate out all the different things I'm exposed to on a daily basis that'll probably fuck me up at some point. Most of the stuff I get for cheap from Temu and the like isn't at all trustworthy on a health or quality basis but I'm also exclusively using it for extremely cheap stuff like consumable experimental shit.

>>96148658
that is not shinny, just pretends to be

>>96148879
painting is about pretend

>>96147932
Electroplating is the only true answer
https://youtu.be/h1nsaeGMNGs

>>96148658
weird that the model is so heavily replicating light reflections and the way light shines and stuff and when painting the cracked earth it's just "edges brighter than middle". That base really doesn't work for me

the disaster dreadnought forges ahead, weathering to go now.

>>96149179
>disaster
why's that, he looks nice

>>96149179
Nice

>>96147584
>>96147626
Follow up pics of an unpainted and only primed model as promised.

>>96149318

>>96149318
Damn dude, that's insane. Maybe it's the filament but those layer lines are really hard to see.

>>96149326
I'm using an A1 Mini with a 0.2 nozzle, some customised print settings and the default Bambu PLA filament. You can maybe get even better outcomes than what I did just by further tinkering with settings if you're willing to put in the effort of constantly printing and comparing or by simply using either the acetone or heat treatment methods to smooth out the surface finishes. I'd argue that on a lot of my prints the already barely visible layer lines become even harder to spot once painted, but my eyes are admittedly not comparable to a phone camera. Resin printing still beats out FDM in several ways but I genuinely think it's reaching a point where printing minis is doable.

>>96149375
Thanks for all the advice. I don't think FDM will ever rival resin, but I don't think the risks are worth it.

>>96149419
It's all about your usecase. If you're looking to output an insane amount of minis at very high fidelity but are also capable and willing of dealing with all of the involved health risks properly using PPE and equipment, resin is certainly superior if you're looking for that. FDM by contrast is slower and has a lesser output ratio but has a much lower barrier to entry. That being said; FDM has caught up to resin printing considerably in the last few years. It wouldn't surprise me if we see breakthroughs leading to 0.1mm nozzles, better programming for superior print outputs and other advances that continue to narrow the gulf between the two.

Speaking solely from my experience, the A1 Mini was the definition of retard proof plug and play which was a big part of why I picked one up, plus a steep discount. It's not a perfect printer but for the price I'm pretty happy with it. It's got a dogshit built-in camera and the included light is also similarly bad, plus there's a number of design flaws that the community has made printable fixes for. (Attachable waste basket, print head fan cover, screen cover etc.)

The original A1 Mini had a nasty design flaw that could cause it to catch fire, too. So there's still a way to go, but compared to even last year or five years prior, FDM has come a long way.

>>96148658
Not a fan of this extreme nmm, but it's incredibly well done desu

>>96149314
>>96149315
i made a mess with the airbrush and i feel the oil wash i did looks a bit fake, but he does look a bit better than before. i'm hoping the chipping will sell the effect better

>>96149613
It already looks way better than the shot from last thread. The speckling is barely visible now. As for the wash, I want to say you could sell it a tiny bit better by making it more visible in some spots, namely where the hydraulics on the legs are and adjacent to the arm mounted weapons. Maybe also on those torso guns if they're meant to be pivoting. At the same time, dreadnoughts are meant to be beloved and well taken care of, so it shouldn't be too extreme since that'd be pretty neglectful. Overall it's looking really good.

>>96144608
>there's no way a store is gonna let you use those in a 40k game
"Hi guys, I wanna rent a table with 40k terrain this Friday, any free? Yes? The usual time then."
I don't know what the problem is. I throw them some money, they lend me a table and a terrain base for anything I want, 40k, fantasy, historical, 28mm, 15mm, whatever, then they fuck off for 3 hours and don't guilt me into buying shit I don't need.

>>96146947
Leopard spots are big dark blobs with smaller light blobs inside. Trying to paint spot outlines is a recipe for misery.

>>96149673
I think they're assuming you meant playing in an actual GW storefront. GW is notoriously pushed by upper management to do all sorts of stupid shit like refusing to allow people to play non-GW games in their stores, not allow non-GW models as proxies and so forth.

>>96149711
Who the fuck would play in a GW store if they have alternatives? And if you have GW stores around, you probably do.

I don't see how anybody actually could play in a Warhammer store. The stores I've seen are too narrow and only have chessboard-sized tables for introducing people to 40k, AoS, or painting their free primaris/sigmarine mini.

>>96149652
Appreciate the kind words anon, if you're the same that gave me advice on the past thread it went a long way to fixing it.
Those are good ideas, the joints right now are just dark grey with some back in the recesses and maybe adding some brown to show some depth + that the joints are oiled due to upkeep might help sell the illusion better.

>>96149857
Sadly not the anon that gave you advice, but glad to see you're sticking with it. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

>>96149179
Very cool. Excited to see the chipping, especially on the stripe

Do you guys paint eyebrows on your figures? I do.

>>96150434
Of course

>>96149731
>>96149769
GW's business model revolves around it's walled garden. From the ground up everything they do is designed to keep you locked into their business. IIRC the newest rules require terrain pieces to abide by specific shapes and sizes. You're not allowed to use proxy models in their stores, you're not allowed to paint or model in their stores if you're using non-GW products like paints or kitbash parts. In turn this encourages people who play the game to congregate in their storefronts and maintain friendships with similarly minded people. I'd argue that no sane person would participate at all in GW's business in any form but their entire success is predicated on predatory business practices against unwary and often times naive customers.

I know people who used to be like this and I still hear about people who are exactly this sort of person. We might think of those people as stupid or otherwise mentally unfit but Apple is the premier example of how to indoctrinate customers into willingly shackling yourself to an inferior and more expensive product.

As for the storefronts; local to me there's two kinds. There's 'shoeboxes' that are in extremely trendy high foot traffic areas like the inner city and then there's the larger stores with enough room to host one or more gaming tables found in the cheaper suburbs.

>>96150865
I had access to a good, agnostic game store but ever since moving it's the WH store or bust for a 30 mile radius. For some people it's this or home leagues.

>>96150877
There's also that aspect, yeah. If you have the luxury of choice, support your LGS as much as you can. If you don't have that and only have the local GW store, find players you enjoy playing with and start suggesting you play at each other's houses instead and then start pushing to not go to the store at all. Then you can start making other positive changes like moving away from GW models and the like.

>>96143312 (OP)
Did Testors Dullcote get discontinued or something?

>>96145815
that's pretty magnum

How do I attach stuff to an end of a chain, since pinning isn't an option? Do I just glue it and hope for the best?

>>96151419
The simplest way would be super glue, but that might be brittle if the contact point is too small. You could further strengthen it with baking soda but that might make a weird surface finish. If you wanted to go overboard I'd use a tiny dab of UV resin to fix it in place or super glue and then brush on a two part epoxy until I got enough on the join.

Has anyone posted Stahly swatches lately? I'm looking for the Warpaints Fanatic one in particular.

Let's say theoretically I want to do custom decals. I figured there will be lot of empty space in case I don't use all of it, what would be popular to use so I can use them for future projects or give them away as gifts or whatever.

Currently painting some kitbashed Skitarii.

>>96151817
Numbers and skulls

>>96151419
Just thought of another way since you mentioned pinning; adhere a pin to the chain where you want it to join onto the model and then drill a hole for said pin. Might be a better join strength than the other shit I mentioned.

>>96148745
I've painted dread sized models whole and in large assemblies, both work but I prefer assemblies. I would not paint it in individual parts or on the sprue. My advice would be partly assembled in large pieces.

>>96148808
>Plus there's also the presumptive assurances that since it's made in the EU it's probably not going to give you gigacancer

It's PGME based if you want to look it up yourself, as solvents go it's not the worst at all. The sds lists no carcinogens (above the EU label requirements at least).

>>96151119
>Did Testors Dullcote get discontinued or something?
Yes.
"Rust-oleum Dead Flat Clear" is the exact same formula, from the same factory, but with an improved nozzle. I switched over to it like 4 years ago, and have no complaints. Works as well as Mr Hobby and it doesn't completely kill metallics.

Would Mr. Surfacer 500 be good for getting rid of print lines on a resin print? Or would it cover up details too much?

>>96149769
It's the same where I live but kind of my only option.

>>96151817
>I want to do custom decals
How does it work?

>>96152157
You need decal paper (amazon) and a printer. You can't make white decals though.

>>96152042
I moreso mean it's assumed that anything you get out of China is a risk in some form because they're notorious for cutting costs and swapping component chemicals for cheaper and far more hazardous ones. But that's only really a risk if you don't treat their stuff with due deference and caution IMO. The mirror paint pens I got, I've used on a couple things and promptly varnished over them so they're unlikely to be a health risk down the line. Pay a tenth or less of the cost but you have to treat everything like it's a low level carcinogen. Chances are I'm more likely to cop it from intestinal cancer due to red meat or something, really.

>>96152047
Good to know. Looks like it's in a bigger can?

>>96152168
There are two kinds of decal paper, clear and white. Clear decal paper is the easiest to use but it only works on a white background, white decal paper can do white decals, but you need to trim them very accurately. In my opinion it's only worth printing decals if you have a laser printer though. I've got a color laser printer in the office and the results are great.

Finished the leopard skin on my captain. It came out a bit darker than what I was hoping for (especially in the front part due to my inability to greenstuff properly). Any recomendations for the future?

>>96152483
Might be helpful to get a specific brush for doing that sort of thing. Alternatively maybe make some greenstuff blotter tools of two different sizes so you can dab on the paint in repeatable forms? For brushes, look into nail artwork brushes. I find they're really good at getting fine detail. Downside is you probably need to use thinned paint in a medium to avoid it drying on the very few bristles the brushes have.

>>96152483
I would probably suggest not using washes if you're going to freehand. At least not how you did there. The brown of the wash and the brown of the spots is the same, so it just looks like he got sprayed with shit on his front.

Does anyone know if there's a good Xpress match for Ratling Grime?

>>96152047
Where do you buy? Walmart or a hobby store like Michael’s?

>>96152483
>Any recomendations for the future?
Leopard head and paws.

>>96152496
>For brushes, look into nail artwork brushes.
I have. They really are good for detail, though they deteriorate quite fast, no idea if it's a general thing or I just bought very bad ones.

>greenstuff blotter tools
Like what?

>>96152648
I thought that as well the moment I used it on the front one. In the cape it feels better, I really need to practice more my sculpting. It's so wrinkled there is little space for the spots.

>>96152483
Try to add some texture to the fur, either in the sculpting, or in painting. It looks less like leopard fur and more like leopard print.

WIP modular kill team table. Need to rotate one of the containers as they don't sit flush at the moment.

Is it ok to wash super-glued pieces with dishwashing soap and a brush?
I have a chinesium models in 100 pieces so I'd rather not wash the cancer off them while it's still disassembled.

>>96152819
Is that MDF?

>>96152852
MDF base with stripwood screwed onto it reinforcing the edges. There's foam in the middle.

The aim was to get a balance of being able to carve into it, while not being too heavy and retaining enough strength and durability that it can survive games and the odd pint getting knocked over onto it.

>>96152873
Looks really cool. Did you follow a tutorial or just go ham?

>>96152819
Solid work anon, always nice to see terrain in /WIP/. Hope you post when it's painted.

>>96152819
how do you guys store this kind of things? do you have a dedicated closet with slots or something?

>>96152889
I did, when I first made a board like this back in the day. For the life of me I can't locate it now but basically:

Cut the boards
Add the stripwood with glue and screws, countersink the screws so they don't scratch your table.
Glue in the foam
Decide your layout, use fixed distances so things like the water in this board will always hit the edge of a section 4 inches from one side so it lines up with the other boards if I decide to make more river sections.
Sand, gravel and watered PVA mix for the ground
The rest is just plasticard, bark and old GW terrain.

>>96152945
Ikea cube storage thing in my case.

>>96152819
What size are the squares? KT boards are 22x30. No, I'm not good at math.

>>96153021
this thing?

>>96153083
Not him, but either 3x2 15x14.67
Or 2x3 10x11

I have some marines i painted in a lighter blue i want to match the rest of my army that’s a darker blue. Would I be fine just painting a coat of macragge blue over the armor and redoing the shading/highlights? They have been varnished if that matters.

>>96153352
Look up Argos Cube Unit, it's just a set of shelves but it fits these segments pretty well.

>>96153083
>>96153409
15" × 15", closest approximation I could get and still have the board divided into squares. GW seem to use really weird sizes nowadays, used to just divide everything into 2' squares.

>>96153543
So 30"x45" in your pic? That's a fuckhuge KT board.

>>96151855
skittles and orks are some of the few armies that can be kitbashed to hell and still feel cohesive. like the texture to the cloth, feels almost like some of their robes are made of flak instead of just cloth.

>>96153450
Should be fine, only wrinkle is the varnish. If its a gloss varnish the paint may not adhere as well.

>>96153667
Sorry, I'm a retard! They're 11"×11" not 15. 15"×15" was the size I worked out for the 40k ones. So the board is 22x33 overall which is as close to 20×30 as I could get it with square tiles (without autistically measuring out fractions of an inch here and there.).

In game I'll just have an 'off limits' bit near the edges.

>>96153543
>Argos Cube
Didn't the Ultramarines wrest control of the Argos Cube from the Necrons ... or did they just end up destroying it?

>>96153805
It’s vallejo satin varnish. I’ve made some small corrections over it in the past, so I’m assuming it should be ok.

>>96153843
Oh yeah it'll be fine, another thin coat of varnish after you've finished painting to seal it all together and you'll be right as rain.

Man, the grime did a fucking number on my ratos.

One more done, three to go

>>96153543
>GW seem to use really weird sizes nowadays,

It would have been too easy to just use the same squares from Zone Mortalis/Necromunda..

>>96153947
Lovely, I like this one more than the one you posted last week

>>96153925
Thanks. Was dreading the idea of starting from scratch.

>>96153947
DUDE SHROOMS LMAO
Looks sick, but do you not use washes?

>>96154195
He's layering like a big boy instead of using washes

>>96154199
Not meant as a slight because his goblins look great, but is he though?

current shield design, diamonds with circles at the intersections.

>>96154195
>>96154199
>>96154209
The cloth and skin is made with washes in there. Seraphim sepia and druchi viollet.
But those are there holdovers from my start in the hobby and i havent found a way to replicate those surfaces without it.
But that one Anon is right. I tend now to use no washes. Its more comfy and also easier to fix mistakes.

>>96154209
>Not meant as a slight
Oh I know, I was just fooling around.

>>96154242
Try oil washes, anon. All the benefits of acrylic washes, but no downsides.

>>96154257
>Try oil washes
Then keep going.

It's spooky the difference of feeling to the touch between chink resin you've just taken out of its plastic bag and chink resin that you've thoroughly washed with soap and a brush.

>>96153943
Did you say... grime?

>>96153947
Based gobbo poster

>>96152483
for sculpting cloth unironically just use masking tape and super glue. It's so much easier to make something that looks like cloth/a flag/a cape/ whatever with masking tape and actually using sewing patterns and stuff. He got a crunchy biscuit on his legs

>>96152400
Yeah, although a lot of that is the new nozzle.
>>96152675
I just get it at the hardware store, but I've seen it at Hobby Lobby and Wally World before.

>>96152851
Yes but you have to be very delicate with the brush or you can snap bits off. I prefer to soak cheap resin in slightly warm water (hot can warp it) with a lot of soap and dip/scrub a couple times.

>>96152945
>how do you guys store this kind of things? do you have a dedicated closet with slots or something?
Shed with shelving units and big square tubs. There are risers and shelves in some of them to fit additional levels of terrain. I also have a bunch of pieces that can open up to fit other pieces inside them, so for example all the ISO containers for my post-apoc table pack up with strips of bubble wrap cradling a bunch of the scatter terrain inside and one of the farmhouses holds all the fencing sections. One of the SF tables relies heavily on folding cardboard and MDF bridges with buildings made out of detailed-up nesting gift boxes. Makes things much more compact. When I'm running on super-limited space on the bus or hauling things out to a convention it really pays off.

>>96154848
>very delicate with the brush
I use an old toothbrush with soft bristles

>>96151855
fuckin sick

>>96143312 (OP)
Thanks for using my models for the OP!

Retook the photo, couldn't find anything like noise reduction but did change a freq adjust.
Hopefully this looks better

Same deal with these two, but another question for it. Does anyone have some advice on how to unsmush her face? The model makes it look a bit pudgy

Almost done with my myrmidons. Some highlights and tidying up before varnishing.

finished a 4th ed banshee that I 3d printed some time ago, in FWL free guards scheme

So I started assembling my daemon prince since all the cool kids are doing it, and to my surprise I'm having fun, great mini.
It's a $26 chink resin kit instead of the $84 official plastic so I have to figure out which bit is which without numbers + wear a mask when filing it, and obviously working with super glue is a bit nerve racking. Hopefully I'll finish him without messing it up.

>>96155489
You can probably find the instructions online to make it easier for yourself instead of guessing what and where each piece goes.

>>96155943
Nigga what do you think I'm doing. I just said without numbers not without instructions.

>>96155959
Damn dude, chill

>>96155975
Chang sends these kits as bits in a tight bag and not on sprues. So basically I have to recognize each bit in the angle it is presented on the scan instead of relying on the numbered sprue. It definitely takes a bit longer.

Doing some Genestealer cultist, but I don't know about the color scheme. I'm trying to tie them to hive fleet leviathan, but I'm not sure if that comes across

>>96156364
I know there's purple on there but if you'd said you were trying to tie them to a hive fleet but not mentioned which one I'd say it's more Hydra.
I think you either need some red or some white

Is there a way to make colors more muted?

>>96156410
Like this maybe?

>>96156561
yeah, I like that

>>96156498
Simply add white, black, gray or its complementary color (red with green, blue with orange, etc)

Pour one out, anons.

Finished the dread (well, barring the base which I haven't decided on yet). Happy with the front but the sides not so much, but all in all I feel like I learnt quite a bit about painting vehicles so onto the next one. He's still looking a tad glossy though, I'll probably give him another matt varnish.

>>96156690
the red transfer still looks a little bright and clean compared to how weathered everything else is. I can see you weathered it a bit but I thnik it maybe needs darkening down a little

>>96156672
I was not aware of this guys existence until now but I do like a lot of Tamiya stuff so I hope he'll rest peacefully

>>96156672
>first Ozzy, now mr. Tamiya
What a day, holy shit.

>>96151855
Gun on center left looks like it came from orlock necromunda, head reminds me of fallout BoS helmets but i do not know the kit origin. Gun and torso on far left and center from GSC and torso on center right from a cadian. What other kits went into it anon?Where are the legs from?

>>96156672
>Ozzy into Tamiya
Horrible day for Britain.

>>96156672
RIP, King.

>>96156705
I agree, in fact I think it's a problem with the left arm in general, the armour looks a bit brighter. I'll see if I can't muddy it up a bit without ruining the stripe.

>>96156672
F

>>96156725
This was how I found out Ozzy was gone

anybody got a good guide to achieve a rust effect like this?

>>96156928
yeah, buy a bottle of this.

>>96156936
It's great, simple, and fast, but I think you can achieve a lot better rust with regular acrylic rust effects. And it doesn't take too much of work, either.

>>96144796
Whats your oil wash recipe?
>>96144481
yeah I'm an inq28 slopper

>>96156928
Paint iron, apply a bunch of AK streaking grime, then apply less AK dark rust, then very little AK light rust. It helps it it reactivates and mixes around, I did mine by thinning each more than the last with the streaking grime entirely unthinned

Progress on my less favourite palooza members

>>96157025
>no lukin' at mi piss jugs

>>96154961
not much better
>>96154982
this are out of focus, do you tap on the models to make the camera focus there? if so and it can't, move like 5 cm away at a time until it does

what is your iso at? it should be 100

>>96155489
>working with super glue is a bit nerve racking
is this some usa (or somehwere else) thing? i have been using ca glue since i started the hobby 15+ years go, only ever used plastic cement recently
i have seen many posts of people fearing or hating superglue one way or another, what gives?

Did the backpack and cloak today. Only noticed the silver bit after I took the picture, gonna fix it tomorrow.

Anyone buy from bitzbox before?
Do they site wide sales?

>>96156936
>Your paint requires an real deal SDS
https://dirtydown.co.uk/safety-data-sheets/
I'll pass. I like my central nervous system un-acuted.

>>96157365
Is this what killed the Tamiya guy?

>>96152819
Hell yeah ! I identify some very old bits on this, check your posture and dont forget to get your blood test done, old one.

Halfway through 10 globadiers.
There like 20-ish OSL to do on them...
But painting the "stormy" effect on globes was, dare I say, good fun !
Im fully aware they're meh at best, but you gotta practice I guess...

>>96157399
Nice rats

>>96157365
Butyl and Ethyl acetate both require an SDS but you use those frequently. Just dont huff it like a retarded abbo and you'll be fine.

>>96157365
> acetone
It's not enough to melt plastic is it?

>>96157519
it may corrode it a bit

>>96157519
no

>>96157519
Just a little. It helps to bond it to the plastic surface chemically.
A little bit like real primers.

>>96157797
>bond chemically
not this again

>>96157820
Its technically true, just not in the way that anon thinks it is.

>>96157820
I'm gonna chemically bond my dick in your ass.

>>96157365
>brain killing death liquid
>looks inside
>common workshop chemicals

>>96152763
You make them. Out of greenstuff. Get a toothpick, cover one end with greenstuff, then add extra pieces of greenstuff in whatever shapes you want. In your specific case I'd have one end with a ball the diameter of a sewing pin's plastic ball on one end and then a smaller ball with maybe a more pointy end to it. That way you can dip the larger ball in your dark paint and then use the smaller pointy bit to fill in the lighter colours of the leopard spots. You might get more reliable results than a brush.

>>96154961
>>96154982
The colours on the purple cloth and the brown leather look a bit flat. Maybe a wash to bring back some of the detail?

Your photo is quite blurry though, like it's not in focus now as opposed to before where it was just too zoomed in. When you're using your camera most of them have a 'focus on this spot' function where you get the right framing and then tap your screen for where it's meant to focus. Otherwise it just autofocuses on what it thinks is the major feature of the photo, usually the background.

>>96157266
Most people's familiarity with super glue only extends to sticking two things together forever with one attempt possible and a high likelihood of either misaligning the parts OR getting some on your fingers and then fucking up the thing you're gluing as a result of it sticking to your hand.

CA is fairly unforgiving in that respect but there's things you can do to make working with it a non-hassle.

whats the optimal time to post so that you can game the system and get on the OP next thread

>>96159037
In about 5-7 hours.

>>96157365
Just use it in a well ventilated area and use gloves and you'll be in zero danger, skimp on either and there's a miniscule danger of skin irritation and passing dizziness (breathing those solvents over time will give solvent damage, but volume and time matters).
Like >>96157443 says, if you use plastic cement you're already handling solvents with similar hazards.

>>96158382
>there's things you can do to make working with it a non-hassle.
Like what, exactly?

Imagine being such a pussy whipped lil bitch nigga that you're deathly afraid of a lil huff of the feel good juice
Your pawpaw drank water from lead pipes in his lead painted, asbestos lined house smoking cigs full of cadmium and mercury for most of his life and still lived to a ripe old age and yet here you are trembling like a chihuahua on a windy day because a bottle of hobby paint that you use every once in a while contains a little bit of the nono stuff

>>96159472
CA's method of action is polymerisation caused by water. It will work even with just ambient moisture in the air. The reason it's a shit-hot glue for sticking to your skin is because of the moisture content found in your skin; this incidentally makes it really, really good at sealing injuries. An easy way to avoid this is to simply wear latex gloves fresh from the box. The longer they're out or being worn, the more ambient moisture will accrue on them and the higher the risk any contact will bond those gloves to the glue. You can also get individual finger 'gloves' of latex also, if you have issues getting gloves on. An additional measure you can take is a layer of petroleum jelly on the very tips of your gloved fingers however this also can cause CA glue to unbond if residue is left behind.

There's also commercial solvents marketed for dissolving already bonded CA glue joins if you fuck up joining two pieces. As for curing it stronger/quicker, combining CA glue with baking soda causes an instant polymerisation with the additional benefit of insane strength due to the fine particulate of the baking soda acting as a shear strength reinforcement. Only real downside to that is it creates a very different surface texture; it can be easily filed away but sometimes you want that weird texture since it makes for very useful greebling on things. I find it makes for a great 'diseased skin' or 'rough ground' texture. Another accelerant is obviously water; having a tiny spritzer bottle of water works very well for that.

I want to make a sort of burned, singed armour for my Chaos and I need some ideas on how to about it. I don't know if it'd be better to start from a metal basecoat and then add the browns, reds and blacks or if it'd be better to work the other way, start from a dark basecoat and then add some metal shine here and there to sell the metal illusion.
I'm not really thinking about the usual neat burnt metal effect you see in guns, I'm talking about guys that seem like they've basically walked into a furnace and lived to tell the tale.
Though then again is ceramite even metallic?

>>96159472
like not using it from the bottle to the model, put a drop on something non porous and use a pointy thing to place smaller drops on the model
if you still have problems get a 'gel' version
if you have both you can also use the gel one to glue and hold the piece and then use a runny one to fill the crevice for difficult or big joints for better strength

also keep in mind that the reaction depends on how the surface mates, the smaller the gap the faster it cures, so two perfectly flat surfaces will cure instantly with a bit of pressure, if the pieces don't sit properly it will take ages to cure, that's where you use activator or baking soda
always test the pieces first to see how ell they sit

>>96157266
>>96159767
>not using it from the bottle to the model, put a drop on something non porous and use a pointy thing to place smaller drops on the model
I'm the anon who initially complained about CA glue and this is what I'm doing, with manicure sticks.
the reason I said it was nerve-wracking is that I'm not really allowed any mistake because of how fast it cures, that's all.

>>96159706
stipling some dark reds and then brighter metallics over a black undercoat seems like the best method for the pictured effect. a full basecoat of metallic would be pointless.

>>96159774
Consider using alternative glues if the issue is getting just the right fit. CA glue is meant to bond within an extremely short window and accordingly it's utility for joining parts is moreso where you don't need millimeter precision. There's other glues on the market that will suit your purpose and have a curing time, allowing for adjustments to the fit or to abort and retry.

>>96151119
>>96152047
I heard model painters liked to use the Pledge floor polish but it was recently discontinued and I looked around and Pledge no longer makes any kind of floor polish despite it being useful. Why are corporations so retarded?

>>96159827
I'm not aware of other types of glue meant for resin models, I'm a glue virgin, only have the citadel plastic glue and PVA glue for basing. I'm in the EU.

>>96159842
There are some 'slow dry' ca glues, never tried them tho, but they exist

>>96159842
You'll have to do some research on what's available to you locally and what's compatible with resin. If you can't find publically available info you might just have to spend a bit of money to buy one-offs of everything and experiment yourself. Options range from two part epoxies, UV resin, contact cements etc. Best recommendation I can make to see what you have nearby is to check the sites of whatever your local large trade supply stores are and look at their online listings for glues.

>>96159833
I doubt model painters made up a significant % of their sales lmao

>>96159913
I brought it up because I wanted to buy some polish for actual floors and remembered that.

>>96157365
Peak soccer mom post. And this is not the first time this bitch ass dingus posted it, either.

>>96151885
>>96151885
>>96151885
Thanks!
Cyborg assassin legs and cultist head from Anvil Industries.
Other heads are from the GW skulls kit.
weapons from Orlocks, Van Saar and Space Marines (HH and firstborn kits); autogun from cultists, knife from Inquisitorial Acolytes, cutlass from Arkanauts.
There are also a necron arm and pieces of old dwarf kits. I just wanted to make fun minis.

>>96153783
>>96154930
>>96156731
Thanks!
Cyborg assassin legs and cultist head from Anvil Industries.
Other heads are from the GW skulls kit.
weapons from Orlocks, Van Saar and Space Marines (HH and firstborn kits); autogun from cultists, knife from Inquisitorial Acolytes, cutlass from Arkanauts.
There are also a necron arm and pieces of old dwarf kits. I just wanted to make fun minis.

Disregarding all those fucking bubbles (courtesy of a shitty primer) and the other WIP bits, what could I possibly add to his face? I'm considering dropping a few touches of Nuln Oil/another dark wash in the mouth + eyesockets but I'm not experienced enough to know if it'll look ok. Drybrushing white is also an option but the details would far too small to get a noticeable result

>>96159037
>>96159069
>whats the optimal time to post so that you can game the system and get on the OP next thread
Some anon asked me last year if I make all of our OPs, and after a quick survey, I found that I was responsible for about 75% of them, give or take.

Of course it feels good for your models to be in the OP; that's why, more often than not, I select an image from the current thread and turn it into the banner for the next one. After all, painting models is what we do here - why not show it off? It's not completely random. There are 85 images in this thread as I write this, and some, like >>96145013 or >>96159489 are guaranteed not to be in the running. OTOH, I might pick something from further up the thread anyway if I think it would be a good representation of what we do here. The next OP might already be posted.

Then there are Tuesdays. The OP might just have to involve tacos when that happens..

>>96160974
I miss beer so much. Blue Moon was great.

>>96157025
>>96157025
for me it was the brewgit cause i hate painting a bunch of tiny strings wrapped around tiny bottlenecks stuck to tiny pieces of wood on top of that. That's why I didn't glue the rear hanging rack on my harbgineR of decay cause i wasn't about to paint that shit.

I actually really enjoyed painting this nuclear green spider dude and the eyes came out nice

>>96160853
Sometimes simplicity is better than doing too much. You could try a wash in the eye sockets, nose socket and mouth to simulate them being hollow but I think another approach could be to use an exceedingly bright neon-ish colour so it looks like it's emitting light from the head instead.

>>96161169
He looks great. The bottles are really excellent. Adds a lot of cool colour variety to break up the visuals.

>>96161313
Thank you for the reply anon, I genuinely treasure all advice I get from here
>it looks like it's emitting light from the head
I've considered trying that with another spoopy ghost, possibly making his "skin" dark and cadaveric so his eyes can be glowy and have this light illuminate the cowl/his skull

Some slaanesh titty musitians

>>96161703
still wip i will work on faces later

>>96161703
nice! Lovely skin, too.

>>96161706

>>96161719

>>96161708
Thanks. I find it better to hasve use contrast with mediom and put it in several lyers. It looks smother and don't ant skill.

>>96161703

>>96159877
Can I really use two part epoxy for this?

>>96161703
These nipples are pristine

>>96161951
Sure, it works for any number of things. It's relatively slow working and it's generally exothermic but the heat is relative to how much epoxy you're using. If you're just using a couple drops worth it's not going to be hot enough to cause damage in all likelihood.

Tiny post. But I wanted to try out this style of shell impact, looks pretty cool imo.

>>96162926
If you are using Tamiya Putty for that metal, you can smooth out the edges with thin cement

>>96160853
shadows

I tried drybrushing in order to replicate the bone effect and it did not end up looking good. Pro Acryl is too opaque, I guess.

should I continue painting blue squares or does it look like dumb

>>96163954
try more steps and just mix whatever opaque white color you're using with some of the darker base color. Then do a final really light drybrush of whatever that final light color was with too much coverage, just be SUPER light with it.

>>96164002
It looks kinda weird because I can't really register this as camouflage but at the same time the colors are nice and it looks kinda cool. I really don't know.

>>96164002
tone it down towards the tail
looking good anon

>>96164008
Im using ivory. I don’t know how viable it is to mix it with something like yellow as it might make it too warm. The drybrush was rather light, it didn’t even smooth anything and you can kinda see the stains underneath. It’s just that the pigment is too opaque. I liked it better before dry brushing, oh well.

>>96164029
in the far future, camouflage is just 70s abstract art. I painted a tank that was much more of a brown camo, but it doesn't fit with my blue guys I don't think, and it doesn't make me happy looking at it
>>96164049
thanks anons

>>96164123
I think your base color is too light

>>96164123
Have an idea what you're going for?

>>96159706
Definitely start from black but this seems like it will be very difficult to pull off in a way that doesn't look like rust.

>>96164432
The bone is going to be that, I wont cleanup too much, will just do some glow on the eyes later. The spirit I'm going to do light-blue, kinda similar to nighthaunt. Still havent decided on the color of the armour, jewelry or the scythe, though. Some sort of grey is not bad, but eh.

>>96159706
if you want pic related then isn't that just a normal basecoat of paint and then stippled deep reds into blacks?. If I wanted that image I'd paint an eggshell color, do a sienna brown rusty wash, and then a watered down eggshell over for scratches. And then stipple on darker sienna brown/orange+brown -> red/brown and then black for the burns.
Mentally starting from black for that would confuse me because I'd be working negatively rather than additively

>>96160974
>Rosa's Taco Tuesday
MY MAN. Get the black beans, they slap.