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Thread 96196911

322 posts 148 images /tg/
Anonymous No.96196911 >>96222327 >>96256951
/3dpg/ - 3D Printing General
This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

>Last Thread: >>95935300
Anonymous No.96197049 >>96197386 >>96200702 >>96203251 >>96218065
slowly building /mydudes/
Anonymous No.96197386 >>96197675
>>96197049
they need more tacticool attachments
Anonymous No.96197675 >>96197786 >>96200702 >>96201465 >>96218065
>>96197386
this fine lad has a sheath and 2 more nades on his belt, 4 on the chest and a pistol pouch
What else would you recommend?
Anonymous No.96197786
>>96197675
I'd recommend using meshmixer for building 3D models using parts. I'd also recommend to check the fittings: you want there to be no air between arm and body, so that it prints as the same piece.

As for aesthetics: I would ditch the falcon gloves and would try to add the golden eagle to their chestpieces.
Anonymous No.96199655
Anybody got files for Wilph's MK 2? I have all of his marks except for this one
Anonymous No.96200702
>>96197049
>>96197675
>the infinite freedom of a printer
>choosing primarishit
Absolutely disgusting.
Anonymous No.96200930 >>96201216 >>96214316 >>96214354 >>96214561
longshot but are there any members of the pipermakes patreon here that have his shadowsun files? I'm subscribed to his patreon but its a timed reward and it won't unlock for me in time for an event I'd like to play at.
Anonymous No.96201177 >>96201333
So any guesses what causes these sorts of 'gashes' or gaps? I'm talking about the long vertical cut, the holes are supposed to be there. It is by far the most common printing error I get, to the point I usually have one model with it per print, although sometimes it's so thin as to be unnoticeable, and most of the time there isn't more than one. It happening to single mansized models is tolerable since it isn't wasting that much resin, but it's making me hesitate on printing anything big.
Anonymous No.96201216 >>96201239
>>96200930
Have you checked Tele?
Anonymous No.96201239 >>96201477
>>96201216
Yes. Found a bunch of his other stuff but not the shadowsun model.
Anonymous No.96201333 >>96203238
>>96201177
Is there a raised line on the other side?
Anonymous No.96201465 >>96201742 >>96202804
>>96197675
i was being sarcastic. ask yourself why would a marine need all that shit on his gun when to model you posted already has it built into his head. its retarded because matt ward is a legit retard. primattis wardines are the equivalent of laser power he-man action figure.
Anonymous No.96201477 >>96201527
>>96201239
>his
how dare you misgender them. they have used a lot of the money from model sales to transition and you need to recognize their preferred gender.
Anonymous No.96201527 >>96201708 >>96201733
>>96201477
Is this true at all? I don’t want to knowingly fund something someone might gravely regret.
Anonymous No.96201708
>>96201527
yes its true. pipermakes is transgender like 99% of the tau player base.
Anonymous No.96201733
>>96201527
You should pirates all their models and actively distribute them as much as you can to stop Pipermakes from any further self harm.
Anonymous No.96201742 >>96201758
>>96201465
hey man it's a scan I've done some work on, I'm just putting together the marksman carbine for my infilitrators
Anonymous No.96201758 >>96201790
>>96201742
you cant polish a turd anon
Anonymous No.96201790 >>96201853
>>96201758
>>96201753
lol
what do you think about pic related?
old mate sliced off the scope
Anonymous No.96201853 >>96201898
>>96201790
he needs to slice off the aerials and what i am assuming is some sort of medical device off the arm too. its pointless greebles that were added to make players update their armies (ie spend more money) and its gay.
Anonymous No.96201898
>>96201853
it's a helix adept
do you even play 40k or do you just kvetch about new thing bad all day?
Anonymous No.96201982 >>96202049 >>96202551 >>96274131
Howdy lads. Bought a new printer and once I dialed in the settings (or so I thought), I printed off a Goblin Bloodbowl team I’ve had for a while.
What’s with the powdery stuff around the chain/hand on this print? Resin didn’t cure? Overcure? Scratched it somehow? All of the prints outside of the tests have a few small areas where this occurs.
I used Siraya Fast Tough Navy Grey resin. Cleaned for 3 minutes in the washing station and then cured for 3 minutes.
If it matters, the current cleaning solution has been filtered once. Maybe some particles left over from putting the alcohol in the sun?
Anonymous No.96202019
>96201898
i play 40k, you play age of sigmar in space.
Anonymous No.96202049 >>96202169
>>96201982
did you use a toothbrush to make sure all excess resin was removed, or did you just think spending a $100 a wash and cure station will just do everything for you?
Anonymous No.96202169 >>96202303 >>96202557
>>96202049
Yeah, Fucko, I did think the wash and cure station would handle most of that considering this never happened with any of the prints from my old Saturn. You seem a little salty about my purchasing and using a wash and cure station. You one of those broke bitches I’ve heard about on the internet?
Anonymous No.96202303
>>96202169
You need to get into the crevices and scrub to physically remove the resin, think of it as thick oily substances on your plastic dishes, you can bang it in the dishwasher but unless it's on a heat so high you will melt it the oily stuff isn't coming off unless you scrub
Anonymous No.96202551
>>96201982
Don't cure your prints right after washing.

That's what happens when you cure prints that still might have your cleaner on them.
I just let my prints sit for a day and letting them dry completely before I cure them. Yeah it's lame to wait a day but I haven't had that issue since I've been doing this method.
Anonymous No.96202557
>>96202169
sounds like you're the one with anger issues anon. i'd be angry too if i was retarded.
Anonymous No.96202804 >>96202822
>>96201465
Why does ward still resides for free in your head? He had nothing to do with Primaris.
Anonymous No.96202822 >>96203008 >>96204000
>>96202804
>Matt Ward, a former Games Workshop designer, is associated with the introduction of Primaris Space Marines in Warhammer 40,000. He was involved in writing the lore and rules for the new units
why do you ride matt wards micropenis for free?
Anonymous No.96202853 >>96203128
I usually print at 50um, thinking of doing 30um for my next project, but is it worth going down to 20?
Anonymous No.96203008 >>96203124
>>96202822
>Involved
Not responsible you idiot. Not everything bad happening at GW is his doing
Anonymous No.96203029 >>96203064
If I were to sculpt Norse inspired dwarfs who used axes and heavy armour, some of the elites had long beards, they had artillery and runes, etc what are the chances of me getting sued for selling them?
Anonymous No.96203064
>>96203029
Zero
Anonymous No.96203124 >>96203285
>>96203008
>matt ward sucks dick and takes it up the ass but he's not a faggot
this is basically your argument. he wrote the lore and the rules, not sure how much more someone can be involved
Anonymous No.96203128
>>96202853
there's no point going lower than your pixel size unless you're a turbospurg
Anonymous No.96203238
>>96201333
Nope, the other side printed flawlessly.
Anonymous No.96203251 >>96222768
>>96197049
and so it begins
trying out these bases, heard they were great to print in resin
Anonymous No.96203285 >>96203310
>>96203124
Rent fucking free. Ward really broke you, didn't he?

>Phobos armour/gun looks silly
>Matt Ward is the bad guy
>He wrote lore and rules

He did not design the models you fucking retard.
Anonymous No.96203310 >>96203361
>>96203285
he was part of the design team and had a say in the look, but keep moving those goalposts faggot. i'm sure your crush will reward you with an upvote on your plebbit account.
Anonymous No.96203361
>>96203310
He is not a model designer, and he never was. Keep trying to make him the big bad boogie man, you only make yourself sound like a buckbroken idiot. Ward here, Ward there.. next you tell us he himself decided to axe WHFB and also is responsible for their prices?
Anonymous No.96203962 >>96203991
check out this nigger who thinks sculptors just make models with no guidance from the people who write the fluff and the crunch
Anonymous No.96203991 >>96204000 >>96204146
>>96203962
don't know about sculptors, but it's well established fact that people who write fluff and people who make the rules strictly do not communicate with each other
Anonymous No.96204000 >>96204027
>>96203991
>as per >>96202822
>He was involved in writing the lore and rules for the new units
he did both, which is probably why he is so loathed
Anonymous No.96204027 >>96204076
>>96204000
Funny because Ward was not even part of GW when they came up with the idea of Primaris marines. He left GW in 2014, and only returned in 2016.
And in mid 2017 they announced Primaris stuff.

This gives us a few options:
>He wasn't involved in the concept of Primaris marines at all, because GW does plan things years in advance.
>He prepared the Primaris drop (kinda like a RL version of Cawl) before he quit GW in 2014, and they enacted his Masterplan once he returned.
>He returned in 2016, and convinced GW to start with lore, books, and miniatures for the biggest change of space marine history asap, and somehow they managed to pull it off in like 5-6 month.
>He never left GW in 2014.. and secretly pulled this strings behind everyone's backs all along.
Anonymous No.96204044
check out this nigger who has inside knowledge of how gw operates
Anonymous No.96204076 >>96204218
>>96204027
Enhanced marines were hinted as far back as 2015 so Wards involvement is entirely possible.
Anonymous No.96204146
>>96203991
>well established fact that people who write fluff and people who make the rules strictly do not communicate with each other
>Rick Priestley
>Jervis Johnson
>Gav Thorpe
>Andy Chambers
>Graham McNeill
>Phil Kelly
>Matt Ward
>Jeremy Vetock
>Robin Cruddace
>Andy Hoare
>Nick Kyme
>Alan Bligh
its well established you are fucking retard who doesn't know shit
Anonymous No.96204218 >>96204484
>>96204076
Unlikely tho, because he was not working for them when those very first rumours started.
Anonymous No.96204484 >>96204690
>>96204218
Do you think they just had the idea and immediately started hinting about it without some development and planning first? Just take the L friend and move on. This is /3dpg/ not /40kg/.
Anonymous No.96204690 >>96204949
>>96204484
You might be on the path to unveil Matt Wards biggest crime against 40k. You should continue with your investigations.
Anonymous No.96204949
>>96204690
Being Matt Ward is Matt Wards biggest crime against 40k.
Anonymous No.96205111 >>96205570
post some prints!
You guys do own a printer, right?
Anonymous No.96205471 >>96205517
This thread is looking like /40kg/.
Anonymous No.96205517
>>96205471
A problem with any generic miniatures topic, if 40k isn't explicitly forbidden, their sheer consumer numbers will overwhelm everything else.
Anonymous No.96205570
>>96205111
I had a good time with this elysian venator tauros
Anonymous No.96206330 >>96208765 >>96209081
Are there any iron hand eye of vigilence pauldrons? I have looked but can't seem to find any and I don't want to fuck around with decals
Anonymous No.96208765
>>96206330
I'll make you one give me a few minutes
Anonymous No.96209081 >>96209254 >>96213074
>>96206330
https://files.catbox.moe/bgzn6b.stl
Anonymous No.96209254 >>96213074
>>96209081
2ND EDITION
this time with applique
https://files.catbox.moe/q94s6j.stl
https://files.catbox.moe/rp2f4r.stl
Anonymous No.96209373
Just hoping back into 3Dprinnting since I've been out of it for a while, still in a bunch of trannygram channels. Any good Death Guard channels, the one I was in got nuked. Also glad to see that fa/tg/guys channel is going strong
Anonymous No.96213074
>>96209081
>>96209254
Fantastic work anon, thank you so much
Anonymous No.96213126
Friends BIL got an FDM printer and made some hexenguarde ruins. Between some texture sprinkled over the floor and some gloss varnish over the walls I managed to hide most of the print lines
Anonymous No.96213227
Printing a bunch of 5e grave guard. I don't love any of the schemes I've tried on them. (Purple/nmm gold, or red/nmm silver). Very new to using an airbrush and every time it doesnt work exactly how I think it should I want to bash my face in with a rock.
I have some 6e tomb banshees to print but I want to do them clear and my tank still has grey resin in.
Been painting some 6mm vehicles but no commitment to finishing an army of them.
Anonymous No.96214085 >>96214271 >>96222994
Anyone have experience with PAF10?
It's giving me a lot of failures. Specifically seems to be supports failing in the same spots. Adhesion to the plate seems fine, but it seems to need thicker/more supports for general miniatures usage.
Anonymous No.96214271 >>96214491
>>96214085
I'm having the same issue with a high-clear non-yellowing transparent resin, have to crank exposure time and support size/density which makes support removal a bitch.
Anonymous No.96214316 >>96214339
>>96200930
Give me a minute anon, once I'm done taking a crap, I'll post it.
Anonymous No.96214339 >>96214354
>>96214316
Okay maybe not. I have the one from minigame miniatures, not the pipertroon. I'm sorry for giving you hope
Anonymous No.96214354 >>96216278 >>96216390
>>96200930
>>96214339
SIKE
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9RNEdMUnA=
Anonymous No.96214491
>>96214271
Yeah it's kind of a hassle desu. I like the flexibility when it comes to things like spears and swords, though. It printed a model with really thick supports no problem, and some very tiny detailed things with no supports just as well.
Anonymous No.96214561 >>96216289
>>96200930
No filename, no release date. Sorry. Do you really think i know every file on my SSD from looking at a picture?
Anonymous No.96216278 >>96216390
>>96214354
Is that for mega? gofile? telegram? session?

pls anon
Anonymous No.96216289 >>96218091
>>96214561
You dont organize your shit? Looks like it was released Dec 24, 2021

https://themakerscult.com/shop/product/eclipsev2-patreonexclusivedec/
Anonymous No.96216299 >>96216625
Squidbot
Anonymous No.96216390 >>96216615 >>96216760 >>96218760 >>96270708
>>96214354
>>96216278
Oh nevermind, it's base64. I got it. Thanks anon. Do you happen to have the supported version as well? Otherwise I can probably support it myself but could save me some time. Appreciate it either way.
Anonymous No.96216615
>>96216390
Great way to ruin it by spelling it out, for fucks sake the whole point is to gatekeep.
Anonymous No.96216625
>>96216299
I can't tell if this is tau or necron.
Anonymous No.96216760
>>96216390
You couldn't just say "nvm figured it out" you had to spell it out too huh?

For fucks sake.
Anonymous No.96217216 >>96275466
prints up
Anonymous No.96217472 >>96217583 >>96217745
Lads, do any of you know of any whips for/in space marine hands? Even if its not an stl and just a bits seller that I've overlooked, I'd be down. Need some for a homebrew.
Anonymous No.96217583 >>96217661 >>96218247
>>96217472
you can probably get whip stls and blend them with space marine hands
let me give you a hand to get started
https://files.catbox.moe/ssi1fs.zip
Anonymous No.96217661
>>96217583
Thanks anon. I'll pop back in here when I have something properly printed and assembled.
Anonymous No.96217745 >>96218247
>>96217472
files.catbox.moe/bnrf26.stl
Here you go, sliced it off an escher stl.
Anonymous No.96218065
>>96197049
>>96197675
2 prints are ready, with a million more well on the way
Anonymous No.96218091
>>96216289
I do organise my shit, but as I said.. I certainly don't recall every file from looking at a picture, so if someone is begging for files, at least I expect to clearly say what it is and when it was released.
Anonymous No.96218247
>>96217583
>>96217745
You lads rock. One day /tg/ will fail me, but it won't be today.
Anonymous No.96218427 >>96218919
my warmaster skaven, all printed.
Anonymous No.96218725 >>96218748 >>96218977 >>96220699 >>96224001
How do you guys mashup parts for stls? Do you use normal 3DCG stuff like Blender?
Anonymous No.96218748 >>96220699
>>96218725
I use Blender
Anonymous No.96218760
>>96216390
you fucking retard
Anonymous No.96218919 >>96219176
>>96218427
Looks like shit desu.
Clean up your basing and throw some matte varnish on so your minis don't look like they came preprinted from aliexpress.
Anonymous No.96218977
>>96218725
I use meshmixer, but admittedly it's not that great for the job. The tools are a bit obtuse to use.

I tried blender and I couldn't figure it out. I found it to be more of a tool for creating animations than anything.

I tried fusion 3D but it's way too complex and it's also not free, and autodesk is a bitch about it.

I tried microsoft's 3D builder. It's only use is for repairing corrupt/non-manifold stls. Not good for mashing.

I tried bamboo labs and it was shit. Just shit.

I tried Anycubic's photon software but it's mostly a slicer too.


So Meshmixer it is. I've grown fond of it's clunkyness. It kinda just works.

Remember to:

Not leave air gaps between joints
If joints seem too weak you can (and should) add a sphere of solid material
If the model is non-manifold use analyze - inspector to fix holes
When adding new files you'll be asked if you want meshmixer to automatically resize parts and/or to move them closer. I always say no to those.
Move and resize parts with T (transform)
Once the parts are joined, select all the stl's and combine them.
If you wanna save yourself headaches in the future, select the combined file and "make solid". Maximum accuracy.
After that, use the plane cut to check if there are any void gaps in the inside of the model. There should never.

After you're done slicing and are about to print, use UVTOOLS to scan the slice for errors. Mostly voids inside the model (called resin traps). Some cheap repairing software (like anycubic's) tends to create these voids when two combined stl's overlap. You can avoid this issue by either using 3Dbuilder's repairer / using the advanced repairer / using "make solid", or all three.
Anonymous No.96219176
>>96218919
Jokes on you anon. Those prints from temu and AliExpress are surprisingly good.
But I agree that our skavenfriend above should put some more effort into his minis. Some Tufts or grass would help a lot too
Anonymous No.96220699 >>96221121
>>96218725
>>96218748
I use Meshmixer
Anonymous No.96221121
>>96220699
Seconding meshmixer.
Anonymous No.96222327
>>96196911 (OP)
Well, I couldn't make all the others but this is done.
Anonymous No.96222768 >>96224508
>>96203251
Where those bases from?
Anonymous No.96222994 >>96228219
>>96214085
it looks like you came to this conclusion via other replies. but flexible resins need a TON more supports than others. like however many you think you need, put on more, seriously.

i auto-generate supports with high density in lychee, then throw a few extras on. if you're also using lychee i also suggest the pixelated raft. might be a placebo but i've found that helpful too.
Anonymous No.96224001
>>96218725
Blender is the way to go yea
Anonymous No.96224508 >>96268260
>>96222768
txarli factory
Anonymous No.96228219
>>96222994
Thanks man. I have like four failed attempts on the same two models now.
Anonymous No.96229596
Does anyone have any of Puppetswars files for the Knight Strikers? I wanna print and paint some of them
Anonymous No.96230542 >>96230559 >>96231090 >>96232586
Was looking for an Skaven bloodbowl team and found these from Brutefun. Really nails the GW asthetic for me. Do you guys have any recommendations for sculptors putting out work that matches the look correctly like this?
Anonymous No.96230559 >>96230718 >>96231090
>>96230542
Yeah, brutefun. None of the other bloodbowl sculptors even come close
Anonymous No.96230718 >>96230732 >>96230781 >>96279439
>>96230559
That thrower model with the gun arm is a far more interesting take than the new Galveneer in my opinion. Is there a equivalent sculptor doing stuff for other GW games? A brutefun but for necromunda, aos, gorkamorka etc
Anonymous No.96230732
>>96230718
>Is there a equivalent sculptor doing stuff for other GW games?
No, Blood Bowl has had independent sculptors since before 3D printing, the third party for Blood Bowl is far beyond anything for the other games.
Anonymous No.96230781
>>96230718
It's just a gun, not a gun arm. Printminis is the best for necromunda, though not particularly great compared to brutefun. Highlands minis is the best for old world, though he just got a takedown notice for a couple models from GW so who knows how the vibes will change in the future.

Don't care about anything else.
Anonymous No.96231090 >>96231168
>>96230542
>>96230559
way to let the black library lawyers know who to target next you pair of fuckwits
Anonymous No.96231168
>>96231090
Blood Bowl makers aren't afraid of GW.
Anonymous No.96231258 >>96232803 >>96233345
I need a decent Santa hat model I can splice onto some Intercessor head models. Wanna remake my Santa Marines from 20 years ago. Any ideas?
Anonymous No.96232586
>>96230542
I like their style, but seriously? Charging more than a BB team box for a fan sculpt version?
Having trouble accessing their store too, so you might have got them banhammered
Anonymous No.96232803
>>96231258
It is very easy to make a santa hat model in blender that you could just scale and put on your minis
https://youtu.be/--PhiKCqgO0?si=vxAA6XL8uuHb2gOt
Anonymous No.96233345
>>96231258
I bet there are santa hats in cults3D
Anonymous No.96234539
all you faggots trembling at the thought of a banhammer make me sick, with the amount of GW scans that are available on telegram these days its pretty clear resin printing isn't effecting their bottom line. you think even typing a sculptors full name on a mongolian basket weaving forum is like personally contacting the feds? cry more
Anonymous No.96234813 >>96235493
Anybody here purchase 3D printing commissions?
400CAD for 3 accurate copies of 40k Artemia Pattern Hellhound tanks to be printed with supports removed.
Am I being grifted? Or is this normal when trying to buy Warhammer 40k and Warhammer adjacent stuff?
Anonymous No.96235493 >>96235538
>>96234813
Yes, seems like a ripoff, because you can get the same vehicle on etsy for 35€

https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/4320643622/cerber-flammenwerfer-fahrzeug

Shipping from Poland might cost you some extra bucks, but probably still less than 400.
Anonymous No.96235538 >>96236009
>>96235493
Thanks anon.
I appreciate it.
I fucking hate that my place doesn't have a good ventilated room for a 3D printer.
Anonymous No.96236009 >>96236813
>>96235538
You fell for the fear propaganda peddled by GW and you're allowing it to keep you from saving money by doing your own production at home.
Anonymous No.96236813 >>96236828 >>96237079
>>96236009
I’ll see if moving furniture around will help fix my lack of space problem.
Will carpeted floors by chance be a bad idea as a floor for 3d printing rooms?
Anonymous No.96236828 >>96236849
>>96236813
Just get a growth tent, a fan and a hose to vent the air out of an open window. You can fit the entire setup on a single desk, you don't need an entire room for it.
Anonymous No.96236849
>>96236828
Thanks anon!
Never heard of a growth tent and it looks promising.
Anonymous No.96237079
>>96236813
Only if you spill, I used to have my printer in a carpeted room with no trouble.
Anonymous No.96237739
Does anyone have the stl's for the bloodbound battlegears Sanguinary bits? Specifically the stuff that got discontinued, like the heads?
Anonymous No.96238931 >>96239723
Should I get a Saturn 4 Ultra 12k if I want high quality prints and can afford the price jump?
I don't really need the extra space atm
I want to print 18mm and some 28mm miniatures
I don't want to print anything big
I don't paint that fast
That said if I'm spending money I might as well spend a bit extra
Anonymous No.96239723
>>96238931
Mars is totally enough if all you want to print is normal sized minis.
Anonymous No.96240083 >>96240185
The lads are coming along nicely
Anonymous No.96240185 >>96240480 >>96240486 >>96246399
>>96240083
Newfag here. Is there a reason why you're not assembling the models in blender before printing?
Anonymous No.96240480
>>96240185
I find that printing parts separately allows me to file and adjust things
My printer or resin currently has an issue where the surface facing towards the build plate gets slightly over exposed and blows out detail, so the underside of arms or guns or whatever would all be kind of bobby unless I print in sub-assemblies
It also let's me better support the model parts to reduce failures and support marks left over
Anonymous No.96240486
>>96240185
Because parts of the model may be easier or better supported in an orientation different to the part it is to be attached to, it may be difficult to support or print the model as a single assembly, it may be easier to paint parts before they're glued to the model, it may require less resin or be easier to wash and cure a model in 2 halves rather than clean or a hollowed model with poor access to the inside.
Anonymous No.96243348
SOH Dreadnought
Anonymous No.96243360 >>96246976
SOH Dreadnought
Anonymous No.96245987 >>96246376
I'm waiting for my Mars 5 Ultra to come in the mail but in the meantime I'm downloading Fabelzel's chaos dwarfs
Do I want the original model or the supported models?
Anonymous No.96246376
>>96245987
since you're a noob get both and try to print the supported ones first
before any of that though you should calibrate your printer settings
check this out
https://github.com/r-a-i/mars-resin-xp-finder
Anonymous No.96246399
>>96240185
Technical reasons aside, posing models is fun. Monopose stuff sucks.
Anonymous No.96246672 >>96249064 >>96249109
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK74g91M18o
Why does he say the Mars 5 Ultra have less sharp prints than 12k or 14k 10 inch printers?
Doesn't the Mars 5 Ultra have the smallest pixel size?
Anonymous No.96246976
>>96243360
no thats a zoomers wet dream
Anonymous No.96247432
Does anyone have the V3 version of the tempest legion infantry from the makers cult? I have everything else id want to print but the only ones i can find are V2. The recent purges left me without many groups that dont ask you to sign up to some wierd site first.
Anonymous No.96247959 >>96249058 >>96249064
I just want my prints to be nice. I have OCD when it comes to detail and shit like that, I'm halfway through second bottle and I still haven't really "got it" in the sense of getting satisfying results consistently.
Anonymous No.96249058 >>96256080
>>96247959
And what do you want to hear now? You did not even show one of your "not okay" prints.
Anonymous No.96249064 >>96256080
>>96247959
What do you think that feels off about your prints?
>>96246672
Has to do with the backlight not diffusing properly and causing distortion. We’re at the point where the screen is rarely the limiting factor in print quality. You would need a microscope to tell a 8k from a 12k print apart.
Anonymous No.96249109
>>96246672
Why would a random youtuber say something random?
Anonymous No.96251790 >>96253300 >>96253300
As before, I come to you to ask for Wilph's STLs. Have Indo and Cata Termis along with Mark IVs, seek everything else. Insert Bernie Sanders meme at leisure.
Anonymous No.96252653 >>96257507
A new version of the Angry Boi has been released on the trannygram
Anonymous No.96253300
>>96251790

>>96251790
Can you share those terminators? I just found wilph's stuff and I am desperate to get my hands on anything he has, especially anything that I can use for a custodes proxy.
Anonymous No.96254768 >>96254773 >>96254785 >>96255608
Need some help all my builds start suddenly failing, releveling didn't seem to work unless I'm somehow fucking that up. Paranoid somethings up with this part or the build plate
Anonymous No.96254773
>>96254768
Here's my build plate been scraping off some bits but it feels like it should be clean enough? And the vat is clean too. Maybe just need to increase bottom layers?
Anonymous No.96254785
>>96254768
If it's not mechanical in nature then it's either the LCD or the UV Bulbs.
Anonymous No.96255608
>>96254768
What is failing? Show some failed prints.
Anonymous No.96256080 >>96256451
>>96249058
>>96249064
Mostly melty bottom (support side) of the print and disappearing details on that side. I print small scale stuff, mostly 6mm shit like battletech, so the details tend to just kinda melt away wholesale, but even details aside the surfaces lose a ton of definition. Some might say that it doesn't matter that bottom of the mech is like that, no one will care. And I agree in principle, but I'll actively look for details like that. And it takes a lot of sanding, and sometimes outright carving in the miniature to get at least some fix.
That's aside from print failures, occasionally layers shifting for no discernible reason and visible printing lines. And massive monetary and time investment of the whole thing.
Part of my frustration probably stems from the fact that I don't have a good sort of space for the printer that I can keep at consistent temperature range at all times (I should buy one of these external thermostat that operates as a sort of socket extension but I need to order one from Chayna). Even in the summer temperature in my garage will inevitably shift over the course of 12 hours, which probably affects the end results. Otherwise I keep experimenting with angles and supports but I never get it100% right. Interestingly though most people don't report such issues. I also think my current resin sucks, ironically generic anycubic was cheaper and sharper (though bit less durable).
>Exhibit A:
Sunlu Standard, multipart file, mostly cleaned up, overall really good result, but that's easy when it consists of 7 different bits and it's really well optimized for print imho.
>Exhibit B:
Anycubic standard, presupported multipart, cleaned up, (primer laid a bit too thickly, fuck rattlecans). Ok, but could be a lot better, a lot of detail got lost and print lines are visible
>Exhibit C:
Sunlu Standard, one-part file, bit oversupported by me. Mostly cleaned up but still needs some work. Very meh result, still best out of 4 copies I've printed by a mile
Anonymous No.96256131 >>96256474
I swear whenever I am looking for something specific you know where, I can always find everything surrounding it and never the thing im after.

I swear i can find every Makers cult month for 2021 except october!
Anonymous No.96256451 >>96258655
>>96256080
On stuff that small, you should use tiny supports. I'd recommend to look for a pre supported file by wargame exclusive. Their supports are usually super tiny at the contact areas, and they still work for 28mm, so doing it their way would work for your mechs too I guess.
Anonymous No.96256474 >>96256873
>>96256131
not even for individual files from that month?
Anonymous No.96256526
Does anyone know where to get some rumbleslam stl's? Or some good proxy stl's?
Anonymous No.96256873 >>96263482
>>96256474
No! Not the ones im chasing. Like i said i think im cursed. I just want to print my thunder warriors
Anonymous No.96256951 >>96257255
>>96196911 (OP)
Anybody know the cheapest I can get a scanner to get a decent model to clean up? Would a pixel7 work with one of those android apps? I just want to scan a few firstborn helmets to clean up in blender and print en masse
Anonymous No.96257255 >>96257275
>>96256951
Why not take one of the countless scanned or sculpted MK7 and other firstborn heads?
Anonymous No.96257275 >>96257555
>>96257255
Can't find any scans
All the sculpted ones look like shit
Anonymous No.96257507
>>96252653
This shit is a 1:1 scan of the fucking GW model. Expect the Pinkerton's to be slamming down the makers door any day
Anonymous No.96257555 >>96257674
>>96257275
Here you go aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9vUVVnMmU=
Anonymous No.96257674
>>96257555
Am I schtewpid or is this an empty repo
Anonymous No.96258359
The lads are coming along nicely, I put some accessories on a few to more clearly show their blood angels heritage like straps with blood vials, etc
I know the tactical vibe is not suited to everyone especially older fans but I like the primaris aesthetic
I'm just trying to pull it off without becoming way too busy
Anonymous No.96258655 >>96258910
>>96256451
How tiny precisely? I'm not even sure I can go below 0,1 mm of tip diameter in chitubox.
Anonymous No.96258910
>>96258655
this is how it looks like.
I printed quite some stuff from them over the times, and never had any issues with their presupports. The only thing that is annoying is when it comes to clean all those tiny supports from the model. But you can imagine how tiny the contact points end up being.
Anonymous No.96262201 >>96262214 >>96262483
I finally got a printer
What's some free shit I can print? I've drained my months disposable income with this purchase + 1 STL set
Anonymous No.96262214 >>96262218
>>96262201
trannygram
Anonymous No.96262218 >>96262237 >>96262348
>>96262214
What's trannygram?
Anonymous No.96262237
>>96262218
Lurk more or fuck off.
Anonymous No.96262253 >>96262351
How the fuck do you find time for printing when you work 5 days a week and study all weekend? I've run out of models to paint
Anonymous No.96262348 >>96262457 >>96262711
>>96262218
https://lmrgtfy.davwheat.dev/?q=where%20can%20i%20download%20warhammer%20stls%20from%20trannygram
ur a fucktard
Anonymous No.96262351
>>96262253
So you operate the printer by hand? I start a print in the morning, go to the office, return home in the afternoon and it's done. Then I start another print in the evening if needed, which is done in the morning.
Anonymous No.96262381 >>96262392 >>96262735
Has anyone subscribed to tiny legends on patreon. I'm curious what's in their starter pack. I want to do that thing when you print extra bodies for the spare lasguns from the killteam kit and I was wondering if it would be chaper to subscribe on patreon or buy the stls.
Anonymous No.96262392 >>96262424
>>96262381
From what I remember, their welcome pack is some pouches and other small bits. Not complete bodies.
You can find pretty much all tiny legend stuff for free if you don't want to buy specific sets.
Anonymous No.96262424
>>96262392
Yeah I know. I want to support them because they make good stuff. Thanks
Anonymous No.96262457
>>96262348
this is the kind of shit response that gets channels closed. just tell them to lurk more
Anonymous No.96262483
>>96262201
Cults, MMF and thingyverse are full of free STL files for you to learn about your machine. Print some free stuff and spend some time here, and you will figure out everything. Just don't expect people here to sit around, waiting to spoonfeed you.
Anonymous No.96262711 >>96262718
>>96262348
Anonymous No.96262718
>>96262711
Some people should just pay for files.
Anonymous No.96262735 >>96265350 >>96270965
>>96262381
I have the starter pack (pirated), straight from the source (k*mono). It only includes one (1) krieg soldier body.

I have personally done what you wanted to do myself. I printed around 20 tiny legend bodies, multiple poses and head orientations. I highly recommend using mesh-mixer to attatch the hoses and heads to the body before printing. I would share the attatched heads and bodies but GW is monitoring the thread.

I ended up having to print some of the special weapons and seargeant weapons. There's a scan of the KT box somewhere on specialgram. There's also Tinylegends there somewhere. Everything that I got from Tinylegend I got for free. If the STL's were priced reasonably I would have bought them, in retrospect, they are the very best files I ever got. Pic related.

PD: If you get tinylegends: don't print their weapons. They are impossible to fit. Just print out the scans, and print more guns than you need. 50% of them are not going to properly fit.
Anonymous No.96262924
Anyone managed to grab Solflamer's latest Cosmic Bugs before they got their stuff canonized? Wanted to buy them this weekend but James had an aneurysm
Anonymous No.96263482
>>96256873
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I just saw their newsletter for a 40% discount on their entire range on mmf and other plattforms.
Anonymous No.96265350
>>96262735
>If you get tinylegends: don't print their weapons. They are impossible to fit.
i had to break one of my heavy flamers' handles because the damned thing didn't fit in the hand of the krieger
Anonymous No.96267719 >>96267779 >>96269299
Would I be stupid to buy 10kg of sunlu abs-like resin after my first printer
Anonymous No.96267779 >>96267832 >>96268127
>>96267719
Oh wait, I didn't realise it had an expiry date
I'm trying to print 18mm napoleonic miniatures, how many do you think I could get from 1kg?
Anonymous No.96267832 >>96270279
>>96267779
Around 100 probably.
Anonymous No.96268127 >>96270279
>>96267779
>how many do you think I could get from 1kg?
I average 50 miniatures at 28mm scale per kilogram, so you'd be looking at 100-150 IMO.
Anonymous No.96268260
>>96224508
Thanks
Anonymous No.96269299 >>96270279
>>96267719
Depends a lot on how much you want to print in what time span. I went through 5 bottles of resin in 4 weeks and have two more coming from Amazon now, but i'm printing pretty much constantly right now.
If you are not in a rush, you can easily get less at once, or not, and just keep it. It might have an expiration date, but you can assume its months before its even getting close.
Anonymous No.96270026 >>96270297
the fucking cope on filamentards
Anonymous No.96270279 >>96270921 >>96270947
>>96267832
>>96268127
Awesome thanks
I think I'll get 6
>>96269299
I have a Mars 4 Ultra so it'll probably take a while for me to use a ton of resin
What were you printing btw? If you had the time/money would you have continued that pace or did you just need to get it out of your system?
Anonymous No.96270297 >>96270306
>>96270026
buy a banner you autisticubic faggot
Anonymous No.96270306 >>96270624
>>96270297
>first thing that comes up when I google "resin 3d printer" and "3d printing resin"
buy a brain cunt
Anonymous No.96270330 >>96270914
How much is apartment living an excuse to not get a resin printer and use filament instead?
If you get a proper grow tent and extraction fan out the window how bad are the fumes?
t. detached garage printer
Anonymous No.96270624
>>96270306
thats a cool but bullshit story. next you'll say you dont blow goats and expect me to believe that too
Anonymous No.96270708
>>96216390
This kind of retards is the reason we can't have nice things
Anonymous No.96270752
fuck all retardposters post prints
Anonymous No.96270914
>>96270330
Its up to you. My printer is in my bathroom, which has a built in fan and a window which usually is half-open.
I am thinking about an FDM printer for a while, but space requirements are way higher than for the Mars 4 i have right now. (which is the main issue when it comes to apartments usually).
Anonymous No.96270921 >>96270947 >>96273826
>>96270279
Pic related is what i am printing currently. Pictured is around 1/3rd of the pieces i made out of those 5 bottles.
Anonymous No.96270947 >>96273826
>>96270279
>>96270921

>If you had the time/money would you have continued that pace

Nope, there are often months in which i dont print at all, or maybe 1-2 plates, and then again nothing. I just recently decided that it would be nice to have a Zone Mortalis style customizable gaming board, checked the GW prices, and then downloaded the Risor District files from Print Mini and started to print. Once that is done, i will return to my usual slow pace, until i see something that inspires me enough to go for it.
I'm using a Mars 4 Ultra myself btw, which probably is the reason it takes that long.
Anonymous No.96270965
>>96262735
Thanks. Yeah, you're right about the pricing. I really don't like the pricing model patreons have; past month's releases are sold at a huge markup. That and how inconvenient paying online is makes piracy attractive. I'll probably still buy some bodies from them since I got to support anyone who isn't gw, that makes good stuff, but I might pirate some other things if I feel like it.

And thanks for telling me to print multiples. Resin printing is unpredictable. I'll probably find the scans and print out the special weapons and such. I magnetized the ones in the kit with tiny magnets in the hands.
Anonymous No.96272117
Anyone got the ~2021 space/future elf tank armada models? I found a pack on trannygram but some of the .stls are corrupted (wave serpent hull extension and backdoor ramp to name a couple). Found a link in the archive, but it's dead, and seems to have had the same problems.

Also welcoming recommendations for better versions of flyers.
Anonymous No.96273826 >>96274038
>>96270921
>>96270947
Based
I feel sorry for filament guys because I understand that resin is a pain in the ass but even when printing terrain I'd want it to look like that, not like how typical filament looks
Anonymous No.96274038
>>96273826
For terrain there are other things to consider that make resin way more viable. It works with 15% infill, so its way cheaper in material. Because of that it is also way lighter, so storing a bunch piled on top of each other has way less risk of damaging it. Also there is way less warping so terrain from multiple parts fits without tons of work.
Anonymous No.96274131
>>96201982
Easy one. Not cleaned enough and/or not dry enough when curing.
You don't need to work the models with a toothbrush or anything like that.
Just have a spraybottle and fill it with some IPA, then have 2-3 separate baths one with unclean IPA, one with slightly less clean IPA and one with clean IPA. (I only use two, dirty and clean)
When you take out your stuff put them down on your silicone dogfeeding mat (resin printer's best friend), spray them a bit with ipa and either leave them or shake them off a bit. Then into the dirty ipa bath to clean off the the worst of it.
At this point I remove supports, spray them down again with the bottle and then into the clean bath for a couple of minutes.
Then I just place them down on the mat and let them dry out fully, I usually leave them air-dry for longer than I need to like 2+ hours before I cure them but ymmv.

The reason you get the white parts is almost certainly either dirty resin bits from your ipa baths or curing when they're not fully dry. I'd guess the former but both can be an issue.
Anonymous No.96274378
Who's the GHQ of WW2 vehicle STLs?
Anonymous No.96275466
>>96217216
I heard there was 6, or mabye it was 4 of these out. Does anyone have a link to these guys new storyplot? Id sure like to read more about them.
Anonymous No.96276097
I've seen so many Bloodthirsters explode because they were hollowed but not given drain holes.
Anonymous No.96276500
Time to prime
Anonymous No.96277373
What do you guys think about AA vs no AA?
Which situations would you want it versus not?
I'm printing models with no flat surfaces larger than 0.5 cm
Anonymous No.96279254 >>96279367
i wonder, is there a bank of "pieces" for modelbashing (i'm thinking arms, torsos, legs, heads...) ready to be assembled?

ideally for fantasy models, but i'm sure some people would enjoy that for futuristic/grimdark ones too
Anonymous No.96279315
This is a longshot, but does anyone have CrabCreatures' Mechanicus Imperial Knight upgrade kit? He still has the shoulders up (which I've bought) but the others appear to have been nuked from Cults. Hoping to get the main hull piece and legs.
Anonymous No.96279367 >>96286861
>>96279254
What do you mean? All sorts of creators release models in pieces, pic related for example.
You can import those files into blender and digitally kitbash whatever you want.. or print and kitbash the parts.
Anonymous No.96279439
>>96230718
Trollet miniatures does 1E & 2E 40k style orks.
Anonymous No.96282062 >>96282129 >>96282138 >>96282674 >>96285151 >>96285206 >>96291877 >>96298747 >>96298839
I have
>nitrile gloves
>6kg resin
>A1P2 respirator
>3D printer
>Alcohol for washing
>Curing lamp
>funnel for reusing resin
What else am I missing?
I'm going to diy a curing box covered in foil and use plastic containers for washing
Anonymous No.96282129 >>96282165
>>96282062
I like having an apron, but it's not strictly necessary. I also suggest considering the surface you're doing postprocessing on, preferring something tile or metal for ease of cleanup
Anonymous No.96282138 >>96282165
>>96282062
silicone spatula to stir the resin
Anonymous No.96282148 >>96282201
Who the FUCK designs a base like this!?
Anonymous No.96282165 >>96282303 >>96283634
>>96282129
I have a lab coat I'm going to use but I can also add an apron on to be sure
If I get some on the apron is it enough to just leave it in the sun for a few hours?
>>96282138
I didn't know it needed to be stirred, thanks
Anonymous No.96282201
>>96282148
To troll (You) specifically
Anonymous No.96282236 >>96282272 >>96282530
These jagged holes appeared in my prints and now there are bubbles/air pockets in the LCD screen in those areas. How fucked am I and how do I fix this?
Anonymous No.96282272 >>96282278
>>96282236
Do you have holes in your FEP? Are the bubbles on your screen protector?
Anonymous No.96282273 >>96282436 >>96282674
The buying guide is pretty old, what's a good budget friendly resin printer for getting started with 28mm to 10mm scale?
Anonymous No.96282278 >>96282282 >>96282448 >>96282530 >>96283336
>>96282272
I don’t have a screen protector (cause I’m a moron) but it looks like they’re just under the screen. Sorry about the dust and harsh lighting
Anonymous No.96282282 >>96282448 >>96282530
>>96282278
When I do a screen test, those spaces can be seen as gaps in the light
Anonymous No.96282303
>>96282165
I use a heavy canvas apron that doesn't absorb much, it's always been wipe-clean. I wouldn't double up
Anonymous No.96282436 >>96284056
>>96282273
Elegoo Mars or Saturn
For the best value the Mars 4 Ultra or Saturn 3 Ultra are your picks
The Mars 4 ultra has better pixel density which means the prints will be sharper but the Saturn 3 Ultra has a far bigger print volume and most people say they cannot tell the difference between the two pixel densities
Anonymous No.96282448 >>96282549
>>96282278
>>96282282
So hold on a second. Did you have any holes in your FEP or resin on your screen?
Anonymous No.96282530 >>96282549
>>96282236
>>96282278
>>96282282
Those are dead pixels. Your LCD screen is dying. The defects in your prints were caused because light no longer shines through those areas.
Anonymous No.96282549 >>96282575 >>96283336
>>96282448
No holes that I can see in the FEP and minimal resin on the screen.

>>96282530
Shit. I was worried about this. How do I go about fixing it? I’ve heard it’s very delicate to do
Anonymous No.96282575
>>96282549
Gonna have to use youtube for that, friend. I haven't had to replace mine yet.
Anonymous No.96282674 >>96284056
>>96282062
Paper towels. A bunch of them.
You might already have something but a tool to remove print supports.(after wash and before cure)

>>96282273
Saturn 3 Ultra
Anonymous No.96283253 >>96283308 >>96284417 >>96285970
I finally registered on Telegram but how the hell do I find channels? For some reason I can only search for users.
Anonymous No.96283308
>>96283253
Telegram search is dogshit, it will search both users, messages from channels you are a part of and new channels at the same time with no option to filter.
Anonymous No.96283336
>>96282278
Pretty sure screen protectors come pre installed with those printers.

>>96282549
To fix that, you have to replace your screen.

That can be almost impossible without a heatgun. I had to change mine on a S4U and it was stuck so hard I had to heat it so much my hands almost got cooked.

Putting the new one in is easy, just make sure to buy a official one or find one that has the glas pane with it.
Anonymous No.96283634
>>96282165
it helps to remove the film from the bottom the chemical starts to seperate after a day or two. and silicone wont ruin your fep
Anonymous No.96284056
>>96282436
>>96282674
Much appreciated fellas
Anonymous No.96284417
>>96283253
You search for channels in a web browser and just click the link to move them over to telegram when you find what you're looking for.
Telegram limits search results unless you pay them.
Anonymous No.96285151 >>96285201
>>96282062
Safety goggles
Screen Protector
Spare FEPs
Screwdriver with bits to change FEP (don't rely on alan keys, thank me later)
Tool to remove prints from build plate (I like a painter's multi-tool)
White grease for Z-Screw
PTFE spray for FEP
conical paint filters for your funnel
Silicone spatula (already mentioned)
I recommend some sort of tray to work on (I use a metal baking tray with a silicone mat, it's easier/safer than working straight on the countertop)
Paper Towels
Shop Towels
Cheap box-cutter knife (for cutting seals on resin bottles, tricky supports, etc)

ESSENTIALLY, you want to have cheap replaceable tools that are only for your printing station. Don't use your resin tools for any other jobs; once they enter the work station they stay there forever. That's why you get cheap dollar-store knives, spatulas, etc.
Stay safe, have fun
Anonymous No.96285201 >>96285754 >>96288156 >>96288190
>>96285151
>Safety goggles
check

>Screen Protector
Not needed if you aren't stupid

>Spare FEPs
Why? How much do you even have to print to get it so worn out to replace it? I went from Photon 1 to Mars 2 to Mars 4 and never replaced a single FEP. I guess i just bought a new printer before it was necessary.

>Screwdriver with bits to change FEP (don't rely on alan keys, thank me later)
I guess buying a new VAT would be the hassle free option

>Tool to remove prints from build plate (I like a painter's multi-tool)

Mars/Elegoo includes a scraper

>White grease for Z-Screw
>PTFE spray for FEP
>conical paint filters for your funnel
>Silicone spatula (already mentioned)
Why?

>Cheap box-cutter knife (for cutting seals on resin bottles, tricky supports, etc)
Use the metal spatula you use to scrape off the stuff from the plate
Anonymous No.96285206
>>96282062
Grow tent with ventilation system.
Anonymous No.96285754 >>96285766
Something about Elegoo's new 3D model platform rubs me the wrong way, it feels like it's too much about the money
I have models on sales on Cults and it still feels wrong

>>96285201
>Mars/Elegoo includes a scraper
You want a scraper with a thin or sharp blade, those have a blunt end
Anonymous No.96285766 >>96285813 >>96286071 >>96288383
>>96285754
>those have a blunt end

They dont. Its a typical metal scraper with a very thin and sharp blade.
Anonymous No.96285813
>>96285766
Those are nice for getting things off the build plate. Careful scrapping failed prints out of the resin vat with one, though, it's very easy to make a hole in the film and if you don't catch it you'll have your full resin vat leak all over everything and get inside your printer and you'll have to buy a new one.
Er, so I hear. Wouldn't know from experience, of course.
Anonymous No.96285970
>>96283253
Stuff is still on lockdown you chose a terrible time to start
Used to be able to find a lot of stl channels just in the search bar but a lot of them are still on private
Anonymous No.96286071 >>96286149
>>96285766
I have it, I can tell you it's blunt, you want something thinner
Anonymous No.96286117
Does anyone know where I can buy miniatures in bulk for TTRPG use?
Like generic goblins, elves, humans, and the like for both players and npcs
Anonymous No.96286149 >>96286192
>>96286071
Its a you-problem then Anon. Those work perfectly fine as long as you dont try to scrape around inside your vat with it.
Anonymous No.96286192 >>96286349 >>96286802 >>96303003 >>96303064
>>96286149
Life could be better, you just don't know it, this is blunt and thick
Get something better to scrape your build plate and for fuck's sake don't get a flex plate
Anonymous No.96286349 >>96288554
>>96286192
Sharpen it?
Anonymous No.96286802 >>96288554
>>96286192
You get your file out of your toolbox and you make the edge as thin as you want it to be.
Me personally? I use a razor blade, one of those single sided ones that has the metal folded over the other side.
Anonymous No.96286861
>>96279367
yeah, that's the kind of stuff i'm looking for, guess i just wasn't looking in the right places, most i've found so far were in one piece
Anonymous No.96288156
>>96285201
>Screen Protector
>Not needed if you aren't stupid
..sure. Let's compromise; I'll admit this isn't really needed if you admit that fire extinguishers aren't really needed. This is an INSURANCE POLICY. And at $30 for 5, it's a pretty cheap insurance policy. Just like nobody expects they'll need a fire extinguisher, they're happy to have them when shit goes down.

>Spare FEPs
>Why? How much do you even have to print to get it so worn out to replace it?
>...I guess i just bought a new printer before it was necessary.
Sounds like you answered your own question; but seriously, both this and the screen protectors are downtime saving investments. IN THE EVENT that something happens, and you need to change parts, you don't have to wait for replacement parts to arrive, you can get to work immediately. Tangential example: I cycle every day, and I have some spare tire tubes on hand so that if I get a flat I don't have to worry about whether or not the bike shop is open, I can change a tire immediately.

>I guess buying a new VAT would be the hassle free option
Sure man, you do you. That infers that you would just throw the old vat away. The most hassle-free option would be to not print at all and just purchase minis, so maybe you should explore that option also. Without being pedantic; it's a tool, all tools require maintenance.
Quickly comparing prices on the Elegoo website: Saturn 4 pack of 5 ACFs is the same price as a new vat.
The first time I changed it I spent an hour going slowly and being careful. (I bought my printer second-hand and I wanted to start with a fresh FEP so that's why I changed it the first time.) The second time it took half as long.
Anonymous No.96288190 >>96288727
>>96285201

>Mars/Elegoo includes a scraper
>Use the metal spatula you use to scrape off the stuff from the plate
Again, you do you. You can use a hammer to drive screws if you want to. You can use a credit card to spread butter on your toast. All I'm suggesting is that the tools that come with the unit might not be the most optimal choice, and that you're allowed to explore different options. There's 31 flavours at Baskin-Robbins, explore the menu and find your favourite.
Personally, I like the painter's tool for removing items from the build plate. It's sharp, but not too sharp, it's rigid, it has a pokey end and a chisel end, and a comfortable handle, and it's $5. If you want to use a butter knife, go for it.
I also like a KNIFE for cutting things, and for $2 I'd rather have it on the workbench than curse myself for being cheap and not spending $2 and wishing it was there.
Anonymous No.96288217 >>96288280
Which screen protectors should I get?
I've never heard of them for resin printers before
Anonymous No.96288258 >>96288983 >>96289110
I want this tank. I would be happy to pay the guy that created Quar money for the files.
But apparently it has an upcoming release in plastic so they have pulled it from their stl store.
Seems stupid to cut off a potential revenue stream and access for customers who actively want to give you money.
Because now I'm looking to pirate it instead.
Anyone have a link?
Anonymous No.96288280
>>96288217
https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Screen-Protector-Photon-Scratch/dp/B0C4Y6SXDQ?crid=3PUZBEJVCEW20&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uzOHdWOKBIhI_lVNikds87x4bNbGS6dxIPK1SZ5P8QVuTqE6Rg4GBCjo7btHsR2yFCeTaik8pPYHdkDae_mtSwiSdS8Dx5mfh-uZbZxH2qkXZ20A0B7aC8O8iD-veJ6nuzRTAAFugJ8CzbIiovD7-c4kxhfkEop7qvFiEEPT9W---EGUL1PskGvifDORA9kt2gBRacNkU8Gl1bpki3UFUtL2UXG0XfSHx7Dj3qk8p0ULTEqKBCd8EWLeNN_3GLbFjAinPKy67sGR2OTXkWD9KNuv4vujKdpiEqVhvGbPSOE.Uq3aDCy_KQjGBRcO8oJlkNoyZItfUl6ySBonLF1gdYw&dib_tag=se&keywords=screen%2Bprotector%2Banycubic%2Bmono%2Bx&qid=1754797777&sprefix=screen%2Bprotector%2Banycubic%2Bmono%2Bx%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-5&th=1
These are the ones I purchased for my machine, they're just simple plastic sheet screen protectors.
You should be able to find something similar for your model of printer. They take about five minutes to apply. You'll need a credit card or something similar to squish the bubbles out.
As mentioned previously, these are insurance items and not strictly necessary; but I wouldn't recommend printing without them, just like I wouldn't recommend owning a stove without owning a fire extinguisher. You don't buy them hoping you get to use them one day, they're peace of mind when you do need them they're there for you.
Anonymous No.96288383 >>96288554 >>96288969
>>96285766
NTA but would a plastic razor/scraper be safer on the printer?
Anonymous No.96288554 >>96288714
>>96286349
>>96286802
I have a good scrapper, what I'm saying is that the one that comes with the printer is not good enough

>>96288383
You're not using anything but a silicone spatula on the FEP
Anonymous No.96288714
>>96288554
And I'm telling you that the one included with the printer is perfectly fine.
Anonymous No.96288727
>>96288190
Wtf. I never encountered a situation when this yellow scraper failed. A very gentle push and it slides easily (!) under the rafts of whatever I print. It's the perfect tool for the job.
Anonymous No.96288969
>>96288383
I never found it a good idea to scrape around inside the vat. Just run the vat cleaner, pour out the resin and take out the layer on the bottom?
Anonymous No.96288983
>>96288258
You might want to give more infos. Creator, Release date, file name. Anything.
Do you think i magically know the file names of every quar vehicle that was made as STL from looking at your picture?
Anonymous No.96289110
>>96288258
>Seems stupid to cut off a potential revenue stream and access for customers who actively want to give you money.
What do you think what's the ratio of people preferring to buy plastic kits and people having access or willingness to use 3D printing?
Because I am sure WGA wouldn't like to do the plastics if the Quar people would still be selling those as stls.
Anonymous No.96289150 >>96290089
Anyone got good stories or had experience getting 3d prints done by a service for you?
Anonymous No.96290089
>>96289150
What kind of good stories? I bought some printed stuff. One Etsy-order was shit (semi-cured, some pieces broken already during transit), everything else, including some FDM stuff from Temu was good.
Anonymous No.96291877 >>96295233 >>96298891 >>96298979
>>96282062
A couple of these have been mentioned but just so I can reel some stuff off I'll include them

Silicone spatula
Large silicone mat for working on (pet food mats are good because they have a raised lip)
A spray bottle with IPA in
A toothbrush or makeup brush for agitating crevices
Plastic razor for loosening prints off the plate
A long plastic wedge for popping loosened prints off the plate
An angled holder for your build plate which you put on the printer after a print to let the excess resin drip back into the vat (I think it's called a drip adapter)
Paint strainers for your funnel
Some sort of stand for your bottles when you're pouring resin back in, so they don't tip over
Trays of some sort to put your cured prints in to carry them away from your printing area
Safety glasses, for the love of god
Turntable for your curing lamp
Ventilation for your printer of some sort
Paper towels (lots of)
Microfibre cloths (lots of)
A separate bin for your dirty paper towels and saturated microfibre cloths
A big plastic dust sheet for your entire working area, to put everything else on top of
3 tubs for your alcohol: first stage (dirty) wash, second stage (clean) wash, and a spare tub for saturated IPA to either let it evaporate away or to recover it for future use without taking your other 2 tubs out of action
Nippers for tricky supports or supports that wrap through a mini's gaps, that you need to cut to pull the mini out
A heat gun for minis that are completely encased in supports (it makes the supports malleable enough to pull the mini out)
Spare feps
If you're printing in volume, a spare build plate or two so you can always have one in the printer while you process the others
Silicone tongs for picking up dirty prints (it saves your gloves and microfibre towels in the long run)
Some method of recording your failed prints, so that if you're printing an army and you inevitably have to make a tray of reprints at the end, you know exactly which bits to put on it
Anonymous No.96292249
I SPIL MY RICIN MODS HELP HELP HELP HEP HELP HELP
Anonymous No.96295228 >>96295250 >>96295534
Is it ok to print in a garage?
My plan was to have the garage door open when printing and have fans blowing out of the garage behind the printer
Then I'd go into the garage with a respirator, close the garage door, open the printer lid, take the build plate off, knock the models off, put the build plate back on then proceed to wash and cure?
Idk if the Mars 4 Ultra has good enough UV protection though
My garage is pretty dark
Anonymous No.96295233 >>96295534
>>96291877
Awesome
This should be in the OP document somehow
What do you use microfibre cloth for?
Anonymous No.96295250 >>96295285
>>96295228
As long as no direct sunlight is hitting it for long(ish) time, it should be fine. You can always put a card box cover around it if needed.
Anonymous No.96295285 >>96295403
>>96295250
Oh I figured 1-2 seconds of indirect light would be a problem
Maybe there's nothing to worry about
Anonymous No.96295403
>>96295285
1-2 seconds of direct sunlight on the unprotected resin vat or uncleaned minis are a problem, but that's it.
Anonymous No.96295534 >>96295575
>>96295233
Checked and thanks friend, it's the product of 3 years of refining my workflow
>What do you use microfibre cloth for?
Anything that paper towels would either scratch up (fep), tear up from (trying to rub minis), or leave tiny bits of paper on (build plates when wiping down)...
>Build plate after a print: spray with IPA, wipe most resin off with a paper towel. Spray again, wipe completely clean with microfibre
>Silicone pet food mat after processing a print: spray with IPA, wipe most resin off with paper towel, spray again, microfibre to a completely clean surface (this keeps excess resin under control, but is of course not 100% safe to touch, so when I'm finished printing I leave it in the sun for a final step before putting away)
>Minis with very deep crevices where it's difficult to stop a thin layer of resin pooling: spray with IPA, agitate with brush to loosen resin, spray with a little more IPA to get it all wet, dab with microfibre to wick up the resin/IPA mix. Perfectly clean crevices.

Stuff like that.

>>96295228
Everything the other anon said, plus make sure that if your garage is connected to your house, there is a good seal on the door between the two.
Anonymous No.96295575 >>96295678
>>96295534
Why not just place your mat in the sun for a few minutes and just flake of the hardened resin. It would save you time, IPA and towels
Anonymous No.96295678
>>96295575
Also a valid approach, but I live in the UK, so sunlight is not reliable enough to just throw the mat outside between prints. I have to check the weather forecast days in advance lol. And because my space is limited, I use the same mat for taking prints off the build plate (which deposits uncured resin on the mat), then taking supports off of washed prints (which needs a clean working surface so I don't get uncured resin back on the prints), so I wipe the mat down fully while each print is in my wash and cure. Takes 1 paper towel and then a quick pass with the same microfibre I've been using for days.

Also, because of the way I process my prints, and because I use flexible resin, sometimes it's not as simple as flaking off hardened resin - sometimes it's a very thin film of greasy resin/IPA which would never flake off in a neat chunk. Or blobs of resin that might not cure fully in the middle. So I find wiping down with a paper towel and then processing that much more manageable.
Anonymous No.96296011 >>96297405
Does anybody know a good source for 15mm classical wargame minis?
I am mainly looking for ACW stuff, but all I can find is fences, walls and assorted accessories.
Anonymous No.96297405
>>96296011
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-6-15mm-acw-greatcoat-skirmishers-blender-file-acw-12-213144
Anonymous No.96297409 >>96297718
I've printed something
Anonymous No.96297662 >>96297778 >>96298874
any creators with an oldhammer style? I wanna kitbash some crazy chaos warriors
Anonymous No.96297718 >>96297754
>>96297409
very cool
what parts move?
Anonymous No.96297754 >>96297997
>>96297718
Sponson guns can move left and right and the turret turns.
I did not bother with magnets.
Anonymous No.96297778
>>96297662
Knucklebone and BigMrTong come to mind instantly.
Anonymous No.96297997 >>96298025
>>96297754
Can the turret hatch open? Gotta have /yourdude/ visible
Anonymous No.96298025 >>96298056
>>96297997
It potentially could, but i glued it shut. I kinda find it silly if there are too many tank commanders looking out of my tanks, and i have several with commanders already, so this one is closed.
But i actually like how it turned out, so i will print 1-2 more of the same type. One will be the "leader", so there will be a commander visible.
Pic related is some older prints, including some dudes sticking their heads out.
Anonymous No.96298056
>>96298025
I like it, they're kinda giving tankette size which is cool
Speaking as a real life cavalryman, every single vehicle commander sits out of his hatch 99% of the time, and often you will find them standing stupidly high up to get as good a view as possible, if that means arse out to see over a ridge they will be.
You might think he'd go hatch down when getting shot at, but even then he might just duck down a bit more, it's usually only when taking indirect fire or in the more modern time drone attacks that he'd go hatch down
Anonymous No.96298747
>>96282062
Having printed a lot and bought a lot of shit I didn't need you're mostly good except i'd add:
Silicone Spatula as anon said.
Silicone mat to work with dripping stuff on, the dogfood/catfood ones are cheap and great.
3 plastic containers for the IPA. (first bath, second bath, third bath)
Spray bottle for IPA. (pre-clean before first bath and to easily clean mat)
Large paper towel roll the workshop kind.
Big trash bags to throw away supports and paper.
Anonymous No.96298771
Having printed a lot and bought a lot of shit I didn't need you're nearly good. I'd add:
Silicone Spatula as anon said to stir resin and to gently check the FEP for left-behind bits in the vat.
Plastic scraper (the kind with replaceable blades) to get your prints off the bed.
Silicone mat to work with dripping stuff on, the dogfood/catfood ones with a faux-pawprint on one corner are great.
3 plastic containers for the IPA. (first dirty bath, second cleaner bath, third clean bath)
Spray bottle for IPA. (pre-clean before first bath and help clean mat)
Large paper towel roll the workshop kind.
Big trash bags to throw away supports and paper.
Anonymous No.96298839 >>96298891 >>96298979
>>96282062
Having printed a lot and bought a lot of shit I didn't need you're nearly good. I'd add:
Safety glasses. Both minor splashes and bits do fly every now and then while cleaning and you can go blind without them.
Silicone Spatula as anon said to stir resin and to gently check the FEP for left-behind bits in the vat.
Plastic scraper (the kind with replaceable blades) to get your prints off the bed.
Silicone mat to work with dripping stuff on, the dogfood/catfood ones with a faux-pawprint on one corner are great.
3 plastic containers for the IPA. (first dirty bath, second cleaner bath, third clean bath)
Spray bottle for IPA. (pre-clean before first bath and help clean mat)
Large paper towel roll the workshop kind.
Big trash bags to throw away supports and paper.
Sprue cutter (may come with your printer) to separate the support part of some models if you're printing a plate where they're stuck together and help clean supports. (could also use a scalpel for the latter)
Heat Gun with low setting that you use OUTSIDE with a MASK and never bump up from low. They start to fume poisonous shit the second you start heating them. The other alternative, which is arguably easier since it heats evenly, is hot water but then you get tons of resin-dirty water you have to store and dispose of safely. (which you're probably going to pay your local recycling centre money for doing)
Anonymous No.96298874
>>96297662
Monstrous encounters does a range of old school type warriors (and undead, and greenskins, and fantasy knights)
Anonymous No.96298891
>>96298839
Cont in that I'll also comment on these a bit >>96291877
Most of these are on-point but a few I think are unecessary:
>toothbrush or makeup brush
Don't use them and do clean-up with a sprue cutter or scalpel but this is more a question of taste.
>An angled holder for your build plate
Your mileage may vary but i've had no need for these. Just wait a bit and it'll drip in the vat or move it over to the mat and clean-up what little drip gets there.
>Paint strainers for your funnel
I use cheap dollarstore car oil funnels with built in strainers and hoses you can screw off, works fine but they do admittedly have to be cleaned with IPA and paper towels so depends on how pricy either are in your region.
>Some sort of stand for your bottles
Never been an issue for me just hold them steady when you're doing it.
>Microfibre cloths (lots of)
Little need imo, paper towels work fine for the most part.
>plastic dust sheet
Can be useful if you're going to have it standing there for weeks, personally I put the cover on the printer and then empty resin and store it when it's not in use.
>a spare build plate
Definitely don't think these are necessary. You can get them off in seconds with a plastic scraper and put them back on the printer. I wouldn't get these even if I was printing for others commercially.
Anonymous No.96298979
>>96298839 (You)
Cont in that I'll also comment on these a bit >>96291877
Most of these are on-point but a few I think are unecessary:
>An angled holder for your build plate
Your mileage may vary but i've had no need for these. Just wait a bit and it'll drip in the vat or move it over to the mat and clean-up what little drip gets there.
>Paint strainers for your funnel
I use cheap dollarstore car oil funnels with built in strainers and hoses you can screw off, works fine but they do admittedly have to be cleaned with IPA and paper towels so depends on how pricy either are in your region.
>Some sort of stand for your bottles
Never been an issue for me just hold them steady when you're doing it.
>Microfibre cloths (lots of)
Little need imo, fine paper towels work for the most part.
If you've only got particularly rough ones i'd get some disposable non-woven face cotton cloth or similar but I haven't needed it personally. (wipes that don't leave bits behind and are for makeup removal)
>plastic dust sheet
Can be useful if you're going to have it standing there for weeks, personally I put the cover on the printer, empty the resin and store it when it's not in use.
>a spare build plate
Definitely don't think these are necessary. You can get them off in seconds with a plastic scraper and put them back on the printer. I wouldn't get these even if I was printing for others commercially.
Anonymous No.96299776
How do typical professional sculptors start their sculpts?
Are they starting from scratch or do they have pre-sculpted heads and bodies that they add to?
Anonymous No.96300670 >>96302850
What's everyone's favorite piece FDM terrain?
Bonus points if you've actually used it on the table for a game.
Anonymous No.96302850
>>96300670
Right now its Dungeon Blocks. Only got a few sets through the channels, but its nice, fits together without clips or magnets, which is a huge plus. 8 magnets per tile gets huge, fast.

Also, it is one of the rare tile sets that has one square bigger than 1 inch, so walls don't have to be a separate square.
Anonymous No.96303003
>>96286192
I've had a flex plate on 2 resin printers now, never had any problems with them. Git gud?
Anonymous No.96303064
>>96286192
And yet, it slides under the prints nicely.
Anonymous No.96306743 >>96306915 >>96307578 >>96309841
Why is this general so dead?
If 3D printing is as amazing as people make it out to be, why does hardly anyone do it?
Anonymous No.96306915 >>96308750
>>96306743
Well mostly because people stopped sharing on here and tell people to go to telegram.
There's reasons for that but that's still why.
Anonymous No.96307578
>>96306743
I'm busy painting things I 3D printed.
Anonymous No.96308558 >>96308795
anyone know of any source or patreon who do scifi minis in 8mm....that would be epic.....
Anonymous No.96308750 >>96309841
>>96306915
His point still stands. Is there nothing to talk about besides file sharing/hoarding? I upload some stuff from time to time if anons ask for it, but I actually never see one print anything.
Anonymous No.96308795 >>96311054
>>96308558
ThatEvilOne? He ported all his stuff into "smol" scale
Anonymous No.96309841
>>96306743
There are multiple reasons why less people are writing around now, yes some are gone because printing has lost their luster or they only do stuff on telegram, but others:
-Summer in the north means more people do stuff outside
-People print less cause they can't vent fumes outside without flat getting hot
-Prints have less failures, so they need less help
-GW struck down loads of stuff, so people have less they can share, even if they want to
-People are away on vacation

>>96308750
Here you go, some of the Dungeon Blocks I printed on lasercut frames I made to save on filament for the ground floors. A 0.2mm nozzle makes a huge difference on ground tiles, but on higher ones the worse results on overhangs can lead to terrible results.
Anonymous No.96310722
not sure if this is the right place to ask about this, but i've got a tool for generating space marines that has DRM inbuilt that i was wondering if someone could crack? its already compiled but made using python i believe, would any anons be up for decompiling/cracking it so i can share it? if not, what general/board would be the best place to ask about it? it's relating to stls so I thought i'd ask here initially and go from there
Anonymous No.96311054 >>96311185
>>96308795
thanks! hes got some good stuff in there...bit pricey...but good stuff
Anonymous No.96311185
>>96311054
Here are some more options, but its mostly 40k stuff:

https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/alexgor248/8mm-guard

https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/alexgor248/8mm-astra-airborn-forces

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/KMFP_Designs

15mm:
https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/Skeaze/archaic-void-troopers

https://cults3d.com/en/users/Skeaze/3d-models

Or, plain and simple: Search for 8mm on Cults
https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=8mm

And on MMF:
https://www.myminifactory.com/search#/?{"searchString":"8mm"}

There are plenty of results, but you have to look for yourself what kind of stuff you like.
I'm a big fan of Edge Miniatures "space elves" in 8mm, but his sculpting style is not for everyone, and obviously they are clearly 40k eldars.
Anonymous No.96316591 >>96316718 >>96316933
Is it true that even 35ΞΌm is good enough?
What pixel size would you say is indistinguishable from cast metal/resin from a painters perspective i.e fairly close rather than a wargamers perspective?
Anonymous No.96316718
>>96316591
Don't overthink it Anon
Anonymous No.96316933
>>96316591
I have a 35 um printer. Yesterday I was surprised at a mini I printed, it had higher quality than I expected of the printer. It just needed some proper calibration (and a good .stl file).

Let's take scans for example. I have scans of krieg rifles; and I have a plastic kit to compare them to. No matter the pixel quality; the scans are always blobby and undefined, lacking detail, this has nothing to do with the printer, it's the file that's bad. On the other hand, some 3D modeled krieg weapons by TinyLegend are indistingushable from the original plastic kits.


TLDR: Depends on the STL quality and on the printer's settings. I haven't tried lower than 35um but 35um is good enough for me.
Anonymous No.96316975 >>96318315
What stuff have you guys bought with the latest sale?
Anonymous No.96317091 >>96317106
Can you direct me to some good ol' alternative high elf models? I'm looking for a noble and, while I love most of the highlands range, the heroes they have are a bit too simple
Anonymous No.96317106 >>96317121
>>96317091
Anonymous No.96317121
>>96317106
Damn that one is cool. I'm also seeing their dark elf models and they're crisp. You've created a necessity in me, thanks anon
Anonymous No.96318315
>>96316975
I'll usually wait for the last 2-3 days with those sales, while putting things i find interesting to my basket all the while.
Anonymous No.96320380 >>96322455 >>96322670
How much fucking resin did this fucker use??
Anonymous No.96321345 >>96321356
I hate how nuscale firstborn stl makers make them so lanky compared to modern csm. I guess it's to make them compatible with the tactical squad kit? Thickening them up is such a pain in the ass.
Anonymous No.96321356
>>96321345
Forgot pic.
Anonymous No.96322455
>>96320380
Thousands of dollars worth.
Anonymous No.96322670
>>96320380
All of the resin
Next question
bLOOD_eNJOYER No.96325342 >>96325822
Hello friends!

Can somebody help me?

I bought 3D printer and really want to print some Blades of Khorne minis.

Does somebody have any STL files for this army?

Mb some priests or Mighty Skullcrushers, or mb some Bloodreavers?
Anonymous No.96325822
>>96325342
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-skullcrushers-353237
Anonymous No.96325885
>namefag
>begniggerring
>reddit spacing
>plays aos
jesus christ how horrifying.jpg