Thread 96491381

Work in Progress "Rise From Your Grave!" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96464185
>>96431984
>>96406783
>>96389366

>>96491381 (OP)
These Mortifactors are almost done. I still need to do the decals, some freehand and minor details.

Gave it a shot. Alot of clean up but thats tomorrow's problem.

>>96491249
Not confused, just interested in the list itself.

Trying to level up my leather kilts

anyone have a link for the most recent version of stahly's color swatches?

>>96492181
I'm not 100% sure if it's the newest one but here you go
files (dot) catbox (dot) moe/s13y93 (dot) pdf

>>96492189
Ty anon! Got the pdf for contrasts as well by any chance?

>>96492251
I have this one. I think it's an older version, it doesn't have the new AK range.
>files (dot) catbox (dot) moe/h8t2tp (dot) pdf

>>96492269
wonderful, tysm

>>96491627
I like the lenses but it looks a bit odd that they're the same colour as the shoulder trim.

>>96492181
>stahly
Is that retard still in a mask ? lol
>see’s PDF
Yep, lmao
Imagine specifically asking for some mindless retard’s “swatches”. I can’t even, lol.
A simple search pulls this up immediately:

https://minipainters.com/paint-comparison
>ftfy
Now you don’t have to look at that narcissist faggot in a mask lol.

>>96492366
trying too hard

>>96492366
someone's mad

>>96492336
They're not exactly the same as far as I can tell. Looks nice to me

>>96492366
Paint comparisons without photos of the actual paint in use are inaccurate and useless

>>96492471
>They're not exactly the same as far as I can tell.
the trim, grenades, wires, lenses and osl on the mine are so similar in hue that it spoils any illusion that those objects might be different materials.

>>96492366
You already posted the same retarded bait before.

>>96492366
>'manufacturer provided alternative'
>rgb color comparison
stahly is a faggot but you are retarded

Finished this guy today.

>>96492783
Stahly might be a faggot, but his swatches are imo the only good color comparison tool out there.

>>96492789
His armour could do with a bit of contrast. Some darker tones. At the moment his skin and armour are the same colour.

>>96492804
that's my point

he is a faggot for obvious reasons and for paywalling it when he gets all the paints for free

Has anyone here used vallejo GC bloody red vs 2 thins coats demon red vs mephiston red? How do they compare?

>>96492822
Yeah I thought so too, my phone overlighted some parts of the model though. Going to add some shades to the armor later.

>>96488521
My.... 1980's Citadel paints are mostly still liquid. Says something about the hard plastic pots....

Posted this knight a while back. I did it with a chrome marker/black ink pinwash technique that I am developing and refining. Got a heavily armored landsknecht that I'm about to begin painting and I'm going to use that technique for his armor. Takes a couple days with a fair bit of downtime between some steps. The technique absolutely lends itself to batchwork, however. So if you are cool with waiting between some steps you can still get a lot of minis done at once. I did a rough overview of it over on /awg/ a while back. I'll take pictures as I go and drop the tutorial for it all at once when it's done. It's actually very easy to do, a beginner could even do it. Of course there are other things to keep in mind with the technique. You won't want Joe with the greasy hands pawing all over it smudging it just to see if it will smudge. But there are certain ways to mitigate wear and tear and I'll go over all that as well in the tutorial.

>>96492874
I find my phone camera always washes out colors for some reason. It will have heavy contrast irl but I take a picture and it just disappears.

Pic of the mini for anyone who may be curious

>>96493344
Looking forward to it, friend.

>>96493344
>a chrome marker/black ink pinwash technique that I am developing and refining
Anon there's no need for overly fancy terminology. You painted it in metallic and gave it a wash.

got a few questions if anyone dosnt mind answering
1: is it normal to use a magnifying glass/tool for painting minis?
2: anyone have any tips for doing highlingting? watched a few vids but i am not really getting it

>>96493556
>1: is it normal to use a magnifying glass/tool for painting minis?
Yes, either desk mounted with a light or a headband/glasses.
>2: anyone have any tips for doing highlingting? watched a few vids but i am not really getting it
Show an example of your work first but probably you have too much paint on your brush because you didn't wipe the excess away (don't fucking scrape it across the paper you just have to get rid of a bit of paint)

>>96493577
this boy i finished yesterday, red area is main point i am unsure about on the belt and sash

>>96493556
1. I never felt a need to even for tiny stuff like eyes but I see no harm in getting them if you feel like it'll help you out.
2. I assume you're this anon >>96489790, I wanted to reply to you yesterday but I kinda forgot lol, my bad Anyway, it depends on what you want to do.
>If you just want to do GW/eavy metal you just edge highlight every possible edge. For that you need a pretty runny paint, think slightly thinner than what you use for basecoating. Afterwards you make sure to not have too much paint on your brush and either skim the side of your brush on the edges you can catch and use the tip for places that you can't reach with the side.
>If you want to do more natural highlights you need to keep light in mind. A good way to figure this out in the beginning is to put your mini under your desk lamp with light coming from the angle you want to paint and use that as reference. You can even take a picture and crank up the contrast in an editor to make it easier to read. To sell the highlights done this way it's best to blend them at least a bit so they don't look like just different colors stacked on top one another. Blending is a whole different skill to learn but I think layering is the most straightforward one. Basically you just slowly mix in your highlight color to the midtone and paint "layers" of that towards the brightest point covering a smaller area each time.
I can't recommend Duncan enough for a beginner. He explains and shows everything really well. His painting is pretty simple all things considered, it's always basecoat-wash-edge highlight but it looks solid and that's what I'd try to learn first as a beginner.

>>96493638
am same anon indeed. as im pretty new to painting with any medium. id like to just get what looks generally nice.

>>96492831
Demon red is more comparable to evil sunz scarlet than mephiston red. It's decisively brighter than mephiston, and slightly more saturated and orangey than GW reds.

I haven't tried bloody red, but I have vermilion and dark vermilion from vallejo, they are quite good and also moderately more vibrant than GWs.

>tfw feel like my eyesight has deteriorated significantly over the past couple months
>text blurred even when wearing my prescription glasses
>means I've reached the limit of my painting ability because I won't even be able to see miniatures properly soon

>>96493586
Your paint you used for highlights was more like a basecoating consistency when you want it to be thinner for the purposes of layering. Easy edge highlighting is a case of getting the correct consistency + quantity of paint on the brush, then using the side of the brush to do most of the work for you, but that wouldn't apply to the case on the flat sections of cloth hanging down. Expect to go back and fix mistakes (i.e. if you highlight the belt you will get more red on the skin, it can't be helped)
>>96493638 is right, you should watch Duncan's stuff. His blood angel bladeguard veteran tutorial taught me how to paint.

>>96493704
Go get some new glasses, perscriptions change and it isn't unusual

>>96493669
Then definitely give Duncan a watch. You can improve from there later and his process will give you very respectable-looking minis once you can get it fairly clean.

Has anyone tried this method of basecoating? How well does it work on smaller minis? I can see why it would be effective on bigger things like vehicles or maybe even space marines, but what about smaller guys like regular human models or skeletons? Basecoating is one of the most time consuming parts of painting for me and it's a pain in the ass.

>>96493704
Do any of your older relatives have Macular degeneration?
Go to the eye doctor and see what he has to say

>>96494027
>this method of basecoating
what method exactly, I can't tell from the picture alone

>>96493704
Go to the doctor tard. Eyesight going that bad that fast is not good.

>>96494057
Basically loading up a dry brush and using that to slop the paint all over the surface. Barely thinned and you just move any paint the clogs up to another spot. It seems sound based on the video but he uses a big ass terrain piece and doesn't address smaller minis at all.

>>96494027
>Basecoating is one of the most time consuming parts of painting for me
I exclusively paint colour schemes that can be basecoated with a spray primer. If it doesn't have a colour matched spray, I don't paint it.
Time saved.

>>96494060
>Eyesight going that bad that fast is not good.
Makes me wonder if >>96493704 is diabetic, or about to be. A similar thing happened to my father-in-law: his optometrist noticed unusual changes in his eyesight within a short period of time, and suggested he get tested for diabetes. This might have ended up saving his life!

The diabetes diagnosis shouldn't have come as too much of a surprise. He's built like the Mucinex booger-man.

>>96494091
I mean I guess you could quickly apply the main basecoat of a smaller mini that way but that's not exactly anything new. That's the issue with some videos on AO channel - they don't really work for smaller minis.

>>96491627
Clean stuff, very nice.

>>96492366
(you)

Doom flayers done, figured out I can just glue one side and not the other to expose the interior at will.

>>96494091
yeah sure why not, some grimdark painters basecoat like that, it gives the paint texture, so you may not want that for everything

>>96492134
I see the attempt to make it seem worn, but in the picture it just comes out as plain brown. Maybe an even lighter shade of brown or offwhite to really exaggerate the cracks.

>>96494345
I really enjoy seeing your rattos

>>96492134
I recently saw a short of how to do this. Glaze a lighter brown towards the edges to show general wear on the edges and bends of the leather. Then use an even lighter brown on a fine tip to make scratches and/or stress marks.

>>96492336
>>96492471
>>96492629
The first anon is right, the base colours are actually the same. For the lenses I just pushed it further with black and white.
The light also doesn't help. Pic related is the finished test model, maybe it looks better.
I used blue for the trim because I wanted to keep the number of colours limited.

Lamenters has been a fun challenge, I do enjoy checkering as a motif so it made freehanding it a bit easier to motivate myself to start.

>>96495078
Did you do pure freehand or did you sketch out anything with straight edge or stencil of some kind? I find it bad enough freehanding blood drops on my BA. I couldn't imagine doing a whole squad of checkerboards.

>>96495171
Everything is 100% freehand with a size 0 brush, I can only do this work when I'm not too caffeinated.

>>96495078
Lovely yellow and the checkers are very clean.
>>96495075
Nice and clean, good job!
>>96494345
I like how you did the green and the rust effects. Wooden parts also look very good. Always a pleasure seeing your rats.
>>96492789
I agree with anon saying it'd look better with his skin and armor not being so close in color. The dragon looks really cool though!

>>96495171
Also speaking of a whole squad, this is the whole force Ive done up using OPR rules since thats what the group Im in plays. Theres some irregularities but I personally think it adds to the space knight feel.

>>96495171
Also speaking of a whole squad, this is the whole force Ive done up using OPR rules since thats what the group Im in plays. Theres some irregularities but I personally think it adds to the space knight feel. .

>>96495075
The limitation really doesn't help. The saturated blue is the most eye-catching colour on the model so having it in so many different places makes a quality paint job feel more basic/lazy than it is. You've got orange and teal on the base, incorporating those into the marine would punch it up a lot. Or limit the blue to the most important areas of focus and paint trim and grenade in your neutral or dark tones.

The scratched leather is really nice.

would you still love me, even if I was a primaris?

>>96493704
Are you inhaling the paint?

I want to move on from brushing with acrylics to using big boy lacquers (mostly because of weebshit).
I have a couple shop compressors and should I only have to buy a pressure regulator, humidity trap, airbrush and paints/thinners/etc?
Should I splurge for the expensive brands or try to make do with some budget stuff?

>>96496125
Can I get a rundown of how you painted this blue? Mines came out quite dark and flat. >>96473943

>>96496209
Copy/paste from my notes
Basecoat pro acryl Dark Blue
Airbrush Aggressive Zenithal pro acryl Ultramarine (meaning not just straight overhead)
Airbrush specular highlight pro acryl Faded Ultramarine
Airbrush Tint golden high flow Prussian Blue Hue
Edge highlight pro acryl Ultramarine
Final edge highlight pro acryl Faded Ultramarine

>>96491381 (OP)
Finished the dino, gonna start on his rider tomorrow

>>96496449
Nice.

>>96496449
Cool dino, very striking orange.

That one guy miscast/trent did a goblin hobbies crossover recently and is deleting comments that mention the many many $7 nail plates compared https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V9nH6IcXaw

>>96496624
buy an ad, faggot

>>96496624
I cant afford an ad im indie

>>96496449
What colors for the orange?

>>96496125
>>96496209
>>96496372
Added this recipe to our MEGA. Gonna add your Johnny to the collage next go 'round.

>>96496464
>>96496484
Cheers
>>96496680
Wild rider red-fire dragon bright-lugganath orange, pretty standard. Oh and washed with carroburg crimson

>>96496685
Is this 3D printed or did you just finger your marine while it was wet?

>>96496766
It was printed, but cant rule out fingering as well due to being retarded

>>96496644
That wasnt even a fucking ad, it was shitting on some fag deleting comments about the current hobby fad and you went and reported me? you're a faggot too

>>96497134
I reported this comment.

I feel like I overdid the blood effect

Would it be a bad idea to mail an excel blades hobby knife with the twist mechanism activated from the back of the blade to a uk relative given British knife laws?

My cousin from the uk wants to get into the hobby and I want to send him a care package of hobby stuff to help him but I’m not sure about the hobby knife.

Sorry I don’t really know where else to ask.

>>96497284
If it's red it's fresh and fresh needs gloss. If it's old it's dries and browner. So you can either add some gloss or mix in some brown with it.

>>96497297
Just don't send him the knife of you're concerned? Send other shit and let him buy whatever kind of wallace and gromit toy contraption passes for a hobby knife in his godforsaken country.

>>96497366
Fair enough then.

Head done.

Good god I love my vortex mixer. Shit is like magic. Get one if you don't already have one!
>>96497404
Excellent glow; what all are you using to achieve that?

>>96497404
Nice glowing effects.

>>96497455
>Excellent glow; what all are you using to achieve that?
Vallejo fluorescent scarlet over orange, with some flash gitz yellow highlights and a bit of a carroburg crimson wash.

Wip

>>96497548
>Update
looks finished to me

>>96491847
Well, here's the list then:

Abaddon the Despoiler (280pts): Drach'nyen, Talon of Horus, Warlord
Cypher (90pts): Cypher's bolt pistol, Cypher's plasma pistol
Chaos Lord (110pts): Tyrant's Lash, Daemon hammer, Plasma pistol

10x Cultist Mob (50pts)
5x Legionaries (90pts)

10x Chosen (250pts)
5x Havocs (125pts)
6x Noise Marines (145pts)
2x Obliterators (160pts)
2x Obliterators (160pts)
3x Chaos Bikers (70pts)
Chaos Predator Destructor (140pts): Armoured tracks, Havoc launcher, Predator autocannon, Combi-weapon, 2 lascannons, 2x Lascannon

Chaos Predator Destructor (140pts): Armoured tracks, Havoc launcher, Predator autocannon, Combi-weapon, 2 lascannons, 2x Lascannon

Forgefiend (180pts): 2 ectoplasma cannons, 2x Ectoplasma cannon, Ectoplasma cannon and limbs, Armoured limbs, Ectoplasma cannon

It's not a perfect list by any means, but it's made of models I either already have, or am proxying via the models in the Saturnine box

Workin on these dudes. With or without the choco chips?

>>96497670
So meta...

>>96491381 (OP)
Treasure Island all done with proper pictures taken!

>>96498363
Good shit anon, came out excellent!

>>96498370
Thanks anon. On my recent projects I discovered an incredibly easy way to create ambiance. Just use inks, thinned 1/5-1/10 with an airbrush and you can easily create a wholly different scene with various reflections in just an hour or even less.

>>96498363
Have been enjoying the progress. Now it's time to cum tribute it.

>>96498363
>>96498386
Lovely, fantastic work anon

>>96498363
Im going to beat you to death with a hammer this is so good wtf

>>96498363
Some of the facial features are too sharp, but otherwise it's very well done. Hope you apply this to a more attractive model next round.

>>96497134
Yes I did because it served no other purpose than to shitstir and bring attention to some literal who sloptuber, fuck off.

>>96498363
Very nice!

finally put on paint on some Skaven that have spent many years on the pile of shame.

>>96498363
Same energy.

>>96498246
A meta list wouldn't use a single Obliterator, dumbass

>>96498363
>>96498386
Gorgeous!
>>96498825
I feel like just starting is half the battle. It's easier to keep the ball rolling from there.

>>96499112
Very true, getting that inertia going is the hardest part

>>96499101
Ackchyually you said IW which would imply you're using the Siegehost detachment which makes Obliterator a legit pick instead of a meme one.

>>96499101
>>96499151
>>/tg/40kg

>>96499151
So we're moving the goalpost from "you're using a meta list" to "you're using a list that isn't shit", then?

>>96499101
>>96499151
>>96499159
fuck off to /40kg/, seriously

>>96499151
>>96499101
>>96499159
>>40kg

Man, why the fuck is /40kg/ such an unmitigated cancer? Why even?

>>96499155
>>96499200
>>96499205
Look, I was just tryna talk about my HH IW wip conversions when someone asked what they'd be used for. Blame the other guy for going all reddit

>>96499225
Based and redpilled.

>>96499215
It's the most popular wargame so obviously it attracts the biggest assholes in the hobby. /40kg/ is filled with secondaries, literal schizo shitposters and tourists, barely anyone talks about the actual game. It's usually autistic arguments about lore, shitposting meltdowns and occasional modelposting. It's actually unbearable most of the time. At least it acts as a containment for the worst posters on this board, I guess.

>>96499215
>>96499292
BASED.

>>96497971
with. also, good to see some BT here.

>>96499480
The canopy glass on that Soltic Roundfacer is excellent!

>>96498825
>unpainted for years
So... you don't actually play the game they're part of?

>>96500005
NTA, but I have literally never played a single game and I have a fuckload of W40k minis.

>>96500005
This is the case for a lot of people in this general in case you didn't realize

>>96498363
Wunderbar

The endless battle for clean edging continues

>>96500005
>Unpainted for years
>Doesn't play
This is faulty correlation, anon.

>>96500331
This is not a jab at you by any means but man I hate how eavy metal style highlights those inside parts of the pauldrons. It looks so weird

>>96500558
agreed. it makes no sense, lighting wise or aesthetics wise, unless the trim is the same color as the pauldron

>>96500659
>it makes no sense, lighting wise or aesthetics wise,
It's just to avoid the pauldron being a flat blob of flat colour, which would look odd given how prominent they are

>>96500558
>>96500707
Believe me, I'm not fan of it either, but client asked for box art and those lines are a pretty crucial component of the look. They are an absolute swine to paint, especially if the initial coats are airbrushed as correction becomes pretty much impossible. When you get them crispy it is a bit of a flex though

>>96499480
weird black templars..

>>96500558
It's a comic book style and a technical flex, it's not supposed to look good.

>>96501452
>technical flex
It's A LOT harder to do a volumetric/specular highlight on the pauldrons than it is to paint straight lines.

>>96498363
Tremendously cool

>>96500022
Yup, I have several WH models and have never played it. Many of the pieces (especially the undead and medieval-style models) can be used in many contexts, and the sculpting is outstanding.

>>96500357
Playing with unpainted miniatures is far worse than not playing with painted ones.

>>96502066
I bought The Black Coach just based on the aesthetics, and will likely build a Victoriana/Call of Cthulhu/Grim Hollow scenario around it. :)

>>96502085
>Playing with unpainted miniatures is far worse than not playing with painted ones.
I'd spend a command point on that.

>>96502066
I'd like to give tabletop a try sometime. But I live in a remote, small town with no LGS so I'd need to drive like 100km at least to have any chance of finding someone to play with. So, I'm fine just painting my small guys even if all they do afterwards is sit in an acrylic display case and give me an occasional (You) on a tibetan chiseling forum

>>96502122
If you're not going to go all in on painting at least your miniatures, then you might as well be playing with coins as tokens, for terrain games you hould at least have either a bunch of pincecones based and spraypainted green and a handful of foam rocks drybrushed heavily in grey, or some cardboard and hot glue L ruins and a bunch of jersey barriers made from foam or blocks.
Bare minimum of effort, I feel anyone can get that nailed in their first few months of wargaming to build off of for the many years that will follow.

>>96502163
Worst case scenario you can just prime the models and add a zenithal, then paint the flesh tones and the facial highlights. Takes almost no time, and works surprisingly well for noir or grimdark games...

Hey, I'm just getting into Warhammer 40K and I bought my first model. Pic related. I bought the colours that the Citadel app recommended to get battle ready but i'm a little unsure which paint to use for the tabard. I'm not sure if I should use the Rakarth Flesh or a thinned out warplock bronze. Could you help?

>>96502224
warplock bronze is metallic, would make your tabard look very odd i think
i dont use citadel paints but rakarth sounds like it matches with my memory of what people that do use

>>96502253
Yeah you're right when I think about it. I'll go for the rakarth flesh for the white/tan parts. Thanks!

>>96502224
Sounds like you're getting started with the hobby as a whole. Welcome! Bless your weapons and go!

Something you will find with Citadel whites and off-whites like Rakarth Flesh - especially if they've been in the pot for a while - is that they can get pretty chunky. Make sure you thin them appropriately before you apply them to your model.

In this case, >>96502253 is absolutely right. Warplock Bronze is a a metallic paint, with mica flakes in it to simulate metallic sheen to scale at 28mm. You're meant to paint the "gold" parts of the Castellan model with it like the trim on his armour.

Does the app recommend Agrax Earthshade for this model as well? I suspect it would, intending for you to wash both the Rakarth Flesh on the tabard (same colour on the pauldrons, too, I bet!) and also the metallic parts you paint with the Warplock Bronze.

>>96502351
Yeah they recommend Agrax Earthshade aswell. Great! Then I know what to use that on aswell. I'm a little confused by the app since I dont feel it's too clear where exactly to used each paint. Really appreciate the help here, thanks again.

>>96502393
>I'm a little confused by the app since I dont feel it's too clear where exactly to used each paint.
Seems like a bit of the "draw the rest of the fucking owl" here. Even if we're talking just about "battle ready", if you're only presented with a photograph and a list of paints, where they go isn't necessarily intuitive - especially to someone who's just starting out.

Fortunately, the Castellan is one of the models for which Citadel have provided a rotating 360 degree view of the studio paint job on the GW website. If you're wondering about what it should look like from the sides or the back, you can go to the GW site and (virtually) turn the model around to see.

I guessed Agrax Earthshade on the pauldrons, and having rotated the model to look over there, I don't think that would match the studio paint job. I personally would still do something like that, though, as I think the warmer colour fits better in my head than whatever grey (maybe Apothecary White Contrast Paint?) Citadel used.

>>96497574
Not done yet, just need to finish the base and add the green on the blades.

>>96501479
Not with an airbrush. I do both and a 45° volumetric followed by a spot highlight is a walk in the park compared to neat freehand edging. Volumes with just a brush though? Yes, that is indeed hero shit

>>96498363
you said this was like 150+ hours right?

Stupid question, but where does that time go into exactly? Like is it just thinner and thinner glazes and fine tuning things more and more slightly as you refine the render, or what?

>>96498363
Man now I'd really like to see you do a coomer mini lol

>>96501479
Straight and even lines are the nardest thing to paint. Any idiot (me) can sketch in a rough splotch of a top highlight and then blend down with a couple of darker shades. You can work super rough and quick and get great results. Watch a 5 minute video on how light interacts with basic shapes (there's only 3) and you're set.

>>96502351
is drilling barrels a meme or not? I tried it and it was just extremely tedious for things like las guns and almost down right detrimental for a minigun. I could see doing it for larger guns like shotguns.

>>96502847
Depends on how much of an autistic perfectionist you are. I want my models perfect, I'll find a way to drill even the smallest barrel that should have a hole in it.

>>96502937
would you mind showing me a nicely drilled lasgun so I can have a standard to compare my autism to? (don't bother yourself too much if you don't want to don't want to put you on the spot)

>>96502847
it's one of the oldest memes

>>96502217
Works fine, got some WIPs at about that stage too.

>>96503030
Fuck.

>>96502847
It is an objective upgrade, but it's up to you since it's pretty minor. I do it since I don't army paint and only do a couple of minis at a time so it's a tiny investment overall. If I had to do an army yeah, it would be a huge pain. Realistically though if people are building 1 pack of guys at a time then I don't think it's that big of a problem and it's not that hard to git gud at, I think most people are just trying with shitty drill bits and bad at centering.

>>96498363
Anons how does it feel to know one of the anons here is actually good at painting?
Are you jealous and annoyed?
Are you hoping they're the one giving you advice and that you're able to differentiate it between the random anons trying to color theory at you after having seen 1 youtube video about it?

>>96502847
>is drilling barrels a meme or not?
Like >>96502937, I want my models to look the way I think they should, so *most* of the time, I drill my barrels. In some cases - say with a very-hard-to-find 35-year-old metal model, I might let it slide by painting a black dot on the end of the barrel.

>>96503105
>Are you jealous and annoyed?
I'd like to think I'm mature enough to be beyond that. The skill level in >>96498363 is obvious, and we've seen the WIP images as he worked on it, so you have to pay your respects. He came by this through hard work and courage.

OTOH, losing out to pic related in Armies on Parade is hijinks on an unacceptable scale.

>>96502937
Thanks I'll keep working at it, I just fuck up some barrels like the one on the left and it annoys the life out of me. It's just slightly off centers but it just kills me. (mold line removal as soon as I get these barrels sorted)

>>96503105
There's a good couple of anons here that are objectively good. Hell even this very thread has some very solid pieces/wips posted. That anon put 150 hours into that bust though, of course it's going to be a cut above everything else. Most advice here is usually good and bad is shot down pretty quickly, based on that I think the solid painters also participate in the discussion and give feedback. At least I hope so. Anyway it's not like we're competing with each other here or anything and learning from your betters is one of the best ways to improve, why would I be jealous or annoyed? I'm actually very happy we have good painters here.

>>96503196
I drill them in multiple passes because it's easier to fix the issues incrementally, and easier to center with smaller drill bits.

>>96503240
hmm I will try and drill another tiny one more centered and then use a bigger one to smooth it out.

>>96503213
Counterpoint: I could put put 150 hours into a bust and it would probably look mid as fuck. It would probably look okay at 20 hours, and then progressively worse and messier from 20 to 150 hours.

And the first five Mortifactors are done.

>>96498363
That's awesome! How big is it?

>>96503267
They look dope anon, great job.

>>96502954
I don't play anything with lasguns, sorry.

>>96503196
I usually start with a hot needle, but anything to guide the drill helps.

>>96503071
>bad drill bits
*sweating* I assume the army painter drill bits I have are shitty? The pic I posted was the hole size of the smallest drill bit
>>96503428
Nice I'll try that

>>96491763
I love that KD model

>>96503435
>I assume the army painter drill bits I have are shitty?
I don't know, but I would be shocked if they weren't. The bulk packs of PCB drill bits you can get are great and inexpensive. They're made to drill much harder stuff so plastic is easy for them, BUT because they're hard and tiny (lol) they break really easily so you've got to be careful with the tinier ones.

>>96502224
Tallarn sand, earthshade wash, highlight with screaming skull
Or
Steel legion drab, earthshade wash, screaming skull highlights

>>96491381 (OP)
Using the free model of the month as an excuse try painting hazard stripes for the first time. Worst experience of my life.

>>96504313
Have space wolves really been reduced to just accessory bits? I walked away in 7th

>>96504586
What? Space wolves have like 9 billion custom models.

Is it better to power through a model you're feeling burnt out on to get it done, or take a break from it and paint something else? I'm pretty close to finishing a squad but I'm really wanting to take a crack at this necromancer I put together yesterday.

>>96504874
That's really up to you to judge.
Forcing yourself when you're burned out can make you hate the hobby, but abandoning projects just because you're "not feeling it" can also snowball into a pile of unfinished shit.
Ultimately though, it's a hobby so you should do what brings you most joy.

>>96504874
Finish the squad and put it up on the shelf.

dagnabbit I thought i was so close to finishing my skitarii and then I realized their backpacks weren't all metal and were actually covered in leather. I guess it's better than I found out and can fix it, but if I'd have known I could have base coated this more easily than trying to paint around some details I had already started doing.

>>96504874
It really depends on you.
If it will only take a few hours to finish, I push through. Otherwise I do something else that inspires me.
>These 'stealers have been 80% done for a month now but I've started and/or finish entire models in-between.
Sometimes I'm to tired to to paint details so I'll just start kitbashing something new.

>>96503476
Which hand drill are you using? I am looking and most are too small to fit the shaft of these carbide bits. (doesn't help that I live on a tiny island so I'll have to order them from mainland so want to not fuck it up as shipping reams me every time)

>>96506961
My drill bits don't have a thick shaft like that.

>>96506961
I bought a box of 50 1mm bits from temu for the price of a pack of 2 from my local hardware store, took like a month and had to pay 10% of the order in customs but in a pretty big order

Just got a few more details to do but it's taking me so long to get through this kill team.

>>96507229
>dark photo to hide mistakes

>>96507724
what the actual fuck is this image supposed to convey

>>96506961
This $6 set, work fine for me

>>96507741
I don't know, I just use it when I look at things.

>>96506961
get one with a mini chuck so you can fit drill bits of different sizes
something like this
>https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32993207740.html

also throw the included bits in the trash if it comes with some

not sure how thick you pic is but usual pcb drill bits are standard dremel size, so ~3.2mm, and many tools are made for that

If you're struggling with faces, paint darker skin tones. So much more forgiving

>>96508119
Go back to pol or 40kg, either or

>>96508063
On the thumbnail he looks so damn happy. Cute.

>>96497373
'Eyup Gromit, shall we see what's on the wireless?' (I'm English). :P

>>96507724
>Took a photo of the blood angels captain I wanted to gift to a friend who likes the chapter, pretty happy with the result
>Took a photo with flash
>Notice all the sloppy details
Still good enough for me, I fixed up a few things after that but it's still rough and I don't have much patience left and want to get back to painting my Orks.
Really disliked using a black undercoat desu

>>96508244
Neither do they hobby as you're expressing

>>96509209
>Really disliked using a black undercoat desu
I don't even use a black undercoat for my Death Company any more after learning from our Black Templar and Chaos Marine ladz. Black undercoat with red paint for Blood Angels seems like way more trouble than it's worth.

>>96508119
>>96508244
Hows bulges, craftsperg?

Working on a kitbashed Iconward, gonna attempt to free hand some stuff on his banner but I’m not sure what to go for, if I just go easy and do some symbols or try a simple looking mural, something like a sun over a planet

>>96508179
Must've just stabbed a ukrainian girl

I finished up some more stuff. The pile of villagers is slowly getting done. I still have to add some jungle stuff on the piglets base, but I'd love to hear some C&C

And here's the backside

>>96509737
>>96509725
Lovely little dudes
>>96509499
I really like how you did the skin and how it looks with the black.
>>96508063
Pretty damn clean, base is also very nice
>>96507229
It's a bit blurry but that blue+red looks good. I think you missed a moldline on his left leg though.
>>96504313
I don't think I'd attempt hazard stripes without masking tape desu
>>96503267
Very clean as well, nice job!

>>96509209
Snow bases never fail at making a model look bad

>>96510105
do they always?

>>96510140
Always (Read that in bold italics)

Anyone have the Colour Forge instructions PDF on hand? I'm not giving them my email just to read the directions of how to spray prime.

>>96510209
What the fuck do you mean instructions? Homie you hold the can out and spray the miniature.

>>96510209
>I'm not giving them my email
lmfao

Anyone remember off the top of their head what the biostrip equivalent is for the US? LA's totally awesome isn't entirely tackling the pro-acryl primer I had go grainy on me.

>>96493556
Getting to the point where I think I should get glasses or maybe some kind of magnifier, my eyes can't focus or process depth nearly as well when I try to paint up-close details like eyes anymore.

>>96493704
>Wear coworkers glasses as a joke
>Notice immediate improvement of vision at distance

>>96510808
my condolences

>>96496125
got the rest of johnny's squadmates up to the same point, including brother yeeticus, brother sergeant geralt of rynnvia, and 2 others who will surely earn their titles in battle. or on the shelf later, who knows. right now im waiting for some crimson fist decals to arrive, and then need to do the sergeant's aiguillette after putting those on.

dumdum question: if, in johnny's case, theres only 1 shoulder to put decals on, should i put the chapter icon or the squad role icon? i know its completely retarded to care about but i cant help my autism sometimes

>>96511015
>dumdum question: if, in johnny's case, theres only 1 shoulder to put decals on, should i put the chapter icon or the squad role icon?
Because the left pauldron is covered in molecular bonding studs, the chapter icon would, in this case, go on the right pauldron. That was the "proper" way to do it back when your army consisted of plastic RTB-01s and whatever metal beekees you got from buying random blisters down at the FLGS.

That being said, combining chapter symbol with some other kind of markings is not out of the question, as shown in the First Edition Space Marine Painting Guide.

>i know its completely retarded to care about but i cant help my autism sometimes
There's a rich tradition - especially in historical wargames - of trying to get the uniforms to look the way they should. Just because 40K takes place in the grim dark future of a fictionalized version of our own universe doesn't mean this tradition shouldn't apply.

>>96511124
Thank you, anon, for the information and words of wisdom

>>96510105
Any reason for why ? honestly doing the base was the part I had the most fun with, would be tempt to do one again for the spare repentia mini I have, I like putting blood on the snow

>>96511213
>molecular bonding studs
They just look cheap and plain. Even if you stain the snow with blood, or put flowers on it, or ad debris to it, it's just stark white and crap looking.

>>96511254
>molecular bonding studs
I saw them open for Neutral Milk Hotel in Deep Ellum about ten years ago.

>>96511306
it took 5 minutes and 3 google searches to understand this comment
fuck you anon

>flock isn't flocking
Im trying to improve my basing skills but holy shit am I having ungodly levels of violence in me watching this shit just not have any coverage. Anyone have a good tutorial that isn't just some guy shilling for 20 min?

>>96511587
... but you gotta admit, "Molecular Bonding Studs" does make for a neat band name! Almost as slick as "Squad Brutus and the Support Weapons".

>>96511742
I don't know why I thought that image needed to be so big.

>>96496449
sharing some progress

>>96511660
I don't understand how to use static grass or scattered leaves. I used them once and it looked like ass.

>>96508063
I'm going to continue painting deformed white people and no one can stop me

>>96512071
uhhh his face looks kinda... weird?

>>96504586
Nah, that's Blood Angels.

>>96512073
Nothing to see here citizen, move along.

>>96512164
He reminds me of the big ear guy from Star Trek a little.

Why are there so many space marines in here recently. I'm not just imagining it am I? We're usually pretty diverse but the last few threads have had so many.

>>96512384
I mean it is the most popular faction of the most popular game on the board. I'm doing my part by painting AoS

>>96512407
Yeah just feels like more than normal. Maybe something happened in 40k recently and everyone's getting back into it or something.

Anybody tried wargames Atlantic’s glass nano files? Or did they copy some other hobby’s tools for a markup?

They seem only usable as intended on hard plastic.

>>96512071
>>96512164

>>96512155
>Nah, that's Blood Angels.
It was a crime when GW stopped making this kit!

>>96512384
>Why are there so many space marines in here recently
Probably something in the salsa.

>>96512997
Based Rosa's enjoyer.

>>96512959
Don't have that, but I do have 2 death company, 2 sanguinary guard, and the assault termies for kitbashing and bits purposes. So far I've only used a couple of piece on sternguard, but once I feel like geting back to marines I'll do more with some assault ints probably.

>>96513243
>I do have 2 death company, 2 sanguinary guard, and the assault termies for kitbashing and bits purposes.
That's the way to do it! I nabbed a bunch of 5th Edition Death Company bitz to put on my 10th Edition Death Company because they're actually two sets of the same five man squad and would look a lot alike if I hadn't.

I think I'm going to convert some chainglaives or kitbash some Eviscerators since they only give you one with the new upgrades sprue. I wonder if the old 7th Edition Assault Squad ones are too small...

>>96494091
NO! Fuck that shit. Thin your paints with a quality medium. 1:3 (1 drop of medium per 3 drops of paint) give or take depending on the brand of paint. Yes this means it pays off to apply a primer complementary to your base colours. It also works well with zeneithial sprays. However, with large terrain pieces like OP pic, there's not much point in being neat or using your expensive thinners. If it's brick, spray it in gray primer, if it's dirt, spray it brown. et ctr

>>96512781
What grit are they? You might be able to make your own with some ultra fine grit sand paper, the stuff they use for painting cars professionally.

Made another LoTD marine.

>>96498398
Thank you anon.
>>96498425
This is one of the best sculpts I've seen, few reach this level of expression and storytelling. Really great to work with and made with painting in mind. Hand sculpted as well, so it does not feel artificial. >>96502642
>Stupid question, but where does that time go into exactly?
This bust is highly detailed. A lot of time goes into simply doing each element to a high standard. Most of the time goes into the skin, clothing texture and freehands. Most of the freehands can be seen from other angles, as they are on the sleeves. They were all made with textures to create the illusion of fabric. Sometimes mistakes are made. For example the boy had different patterns on his clothing. Done in orange, but it ended up being ugly and desaturated. Hence I had to redo the whole shirt from 0 and in blue tones I used on the pirate. Skin is hard to do well. I kept doing small changes for hours, a blend here, a small detail there, adjusting lighting and shadows, adding new tones into the skin. The foreheads are done with yellow tones, the cheeks with red tones, the chin with green tones. There are blue tones in the shadows and purple tones around the nose. Getting the freckles on the boy needed multiple steps, as once painted they need to be integrated in the skin. The hands are very complex and I did veins which as well needed to be integrated. The pirate has hairs on his hands. It just adds up. Sometimes you glaze, sometimes you stipple, depending on the type of surface. I used an airbrush to add some smoothness to the skin and also add ambiance once the brushwork was done. I used a lot of inks and the model was varnished 3 times during the painging process to kill the shine and protect from chipping.

>>96503105
Being good at painting and having your work recognised, especially by distinguished painters who you look up to feels very good.
Most people here are in the hobby mostly for getting their models done for playing games, which is a lower level than painting competitions so most advice here is good. It's about getting clean looking models with painted details, rather than doing complex projects. Most advice I've seen is good for that. For higher level advice you really need to go to someone like Erik Swinson for example, or people in his discord.
>>96503213
>That anon put 150 hours into that bust though, of course it's going to be a cut above everything else.
This is not the first bust I've put so much time into. You can put in as much time as you wish, but there's a level of knowing what to do with that time that you need to learn from theory and a lot of practice. I have done 5 busts so far and this one is by far my best work. And it is not just due to time investment. My first bust took a ton of time as well, but was quite mediocre. In fact my first 3 were quite unremarkable, my 4th had a lot of freehands and texture which made it stand out, but quite a derpy face.
>>96503267
It's a 1/10 scale, so around 10 cm I think. Standard bust size.
Also your mortefactors look great. Especially with the classic helmets.

Does anybody know of a good vallejo replacement for Rakarth Flesh? That hue exactly seems hard to find.

>>96514164
>This is one of the best sculpts I've seen, few reach this level of expression and storytelling.
Oh, I'm sure the quality is nice, but it's just kinda bad looking.

>buy some gook metal recasts recently
>good detail and actually sturdy
what the fuck

>>96514304
koreans do recasts?

>>96506961
chink shit off amazon

>>96511875
I hate static grass but the trick is to use PVA glue and make multiple layers until it looks good.
One layer usually isn't enough.

>paint a mini a few years ago
>want to do nmm because I like shiny things
>learn how to glaze
>spend a whole day glazing a few armour panels
>"fuck, it actually looks like the old nmm stuff. This shit is easy!"
>realize it's easy but takes fucking forever to do
>look to a whole squad of models for my army
>"fuck that"
>painting a squad of legionaires now with a metalic paintjob with an airbrush
>looks kinda cool, but all the loose detailing sticks out to my OCD brain but I also need to paint an army on scale
>take photos but because it's true metalic and not flat 'eavy metal it looks shit
>look back to the nmm test model
>realize even if I did nmm and used it for characters in an army painted with non-metalics it would still look bad in how much it would contrasts against everything else
It's suffering. I want perfect things but I can't also have a perfect army on a practical level. If I hadn't have invested into tabletop so much I would do exclusively standalone models.

>>96514425
There is nothing forcing you to focus on tabletop, and even in tabletop you could just play Infinity or Kill Team.
I know where you are coming from, as I have a whole Infinity army done in NMM with freehands etc. It takes forever.
Also post model pics.

I ordered a vallejo black primer, the store had the right picture on the site
But I got sent the one on the left, so I returned it
Did I fuck up? Are they exactly the same? Why did they change the packaging?

I ordered a vallejo black primer, the store had the right picture on the site
But I got sent the one on the left, so I returned it
Did I fuck up? Are they exactly the same? Why did they change the packaging?

>>96514425
Maybe try doing TMM but with simple NMM-style shading and highlighting? It looks noticeably better than just wash+edge highlight but doesn't take nearly as much time and effort as NMM. I varnish metallics painted that way with 1:1 mix of matt and satin and it retains some of the shine

>>96514425
Are you in a hurry?

Batch painting always helps, even with nmm.

>>96514469
Haven't got any proper pics on hand atm sadly as I am at work. Just imagine EC airbrushed with a dark purple metalic with gold trim highlighted with silver with a laqured finish along with matte blue flesh/mutations to conrast. I can post some in 7 hours, but it's grim. My test nmm model was half a white metal terminator which I will try and fish out of one of my tubs

>>96514619
I did consider that but I don't have a lot of trim with my current legionaires compared to something like TS in your pic. But it would be nice to just have tmm bolters and only worry about the base power armour.

>>96514664
First time I have decided to actually properly paint a whole army. For years I have painted a handfull, get annoyed at the results and strip back to plastic to try again. But now I have moved into my first house this year I have decided to actually clear my shame piles and actually finish an army project for once.

>>96514545
It Vallejo new paint bottle with new formula some shit

>>96493344
Could of just drybrushed it and used a wash and be way quicker.and better

>>96493344
Can't you just wash and then use a sponge or piece of felt to clean off the excess and leave the wash in the recesses?

>>96514470
Damn there really aren't any close replacements. I guess I'll have to migrate some pots.

>>96514893
TTC Griffon Claw is pretty damn close

>>96514897
Yeah but I don't have physical access to TTC, and if I'm gonna buy online might as well grab GW.

>>96514545
It's basically the same stuff. I've used both versions of their primer and the only noticeable difference was that the rightmost one was thinner. Worked out fine, though.

>>96502847

Why would a lasgun have a barrel?

>>96515010
is the left one still good to handbrush on?

>>96515150
Yes, that's how I use it myself.

>>96514817
>I did consider that but I don't have a lot of trim with my current legionaires compared to something like TS in your pic
I think it still looks pretty good even on models that don't have as much metallic parts. Just something to consider, I'm not trying to talk you into this or anything.

>>96515117
the exposed focus crystal housing* should be drilled

>>96515685
Great weathering anon.

>>96515685
Marines Malevolent coming along nicely, I see.

>>96514102
Fucking sweet anon. Here’s some green stuff crap I tried to use as gap filler for some kit bashing.

What's a decent airbrush that can be had for around 100 bucks? I already have a compressor.
A friend let me his Neo, and after a few days getting used to it I realized the reason why it was such a pain in the dick to work with is because the needle is bent, so I wanna get my own one.

Finished this barbarian for a ttrpg, was nice to do something simple that was just one guy and not a whole unit or some big monster.

>>96517485
What are you playing? It is nice to work on single minis like that

>>96492134
I'm conflicted about this, on one hand it doesn't look like real leather tabards. On another, it REALLY looks like fake leather. Its impressive how it looks like those cheap leather frills on handbags etc.

>>96514469
>>96514619
>>96514664
Heres the tmm I am working with-

>>96517619
Shadowdark at an open table, very fun so far, it's been ages since the last time I played instead of DM'ing.

>>96517732
-and heres the nmm I tested years ago

>>96517760
>shit photo

>>96514425
I go through somthing likenthisnin general
>Ill paint my leader and squad captains with all the neat tips and tricks
>start working on chaff, get upset because I can see where the mistakes are or where it could look better
> go from a 15 minute speed paint process to being in the second month of having this army with only about 20 models painted
It is funny to actually see the exact moment I force myself to move on as the models go.

One of the Steel Fist Landsknechts I posted the other day. Still got a lot to do, but it's coming along pretty good. Vallejo Gold Brown is a really solid base color if you want a yellow/gold sort of finish. The coverage blows every yellow I've tried otherwise out of the water and it reads very well especially after throwing some highlights on. Here I used that gold Brown and army painter light tone wash for the initial shading. I think it looks pretty good. Gonna use averland sunset for the initial highlights and then move up to something like phalanx yellow and then a buff or German yellow for the tippy top highlights on the yellow. Used eck tan for the hosen (pants) and white parts, and German grey for the grey parts. I'm using the same scheme I used for my empire/freeguild troops when I first jumped back into the hobby a few years back. Maybe I'll post one of the old ones beside this one for contrast later.

Still working on the tutorial for the chrome steel method for armor, in case anyone remembers or cares about that. Almost done.

question once more, i got a few sister of battle boxes, but looking at the sprews, should i paint them as i assemble them or build then paint them?

What's some weird stuff you keep on hand for basing or terrain?

Buddy of mine gave me some of these nets that are used to package stuff they buy at the company he works at, I'm thinking these would be perfect for chainlink fencing, or use for the basis of a ghillie net over a bunker, what you you use it for?

>>96492134
One of the ways I'll retire a brush is to cut it down until it's 1-5 hairs for making scratches, which a few to denote wear when they scuff the legs or where they'll often bend over time would really help what you're going for. Make sure you add to retarder to the paint, you'll need some to help such a small amount from drying right on the brush without putting too much paint on the remaining bristles

>>96518059
Forgot pic, sorry

>>96518038
Generally speaking if nothing gets in the way of painting something else you're better off assembling first and painting second. If something will be clearly visible in the end but a complete arse to paint once everything's been assembled then you paint that first and glue it on later. Sometimes people like keeping things like heads separate for painting even if it can be easily reached on the model. And in between there's an unending number of sorta-halfway cases that you'll just have to decide for yourself what's the easiest.

>>96514350
So just keep stacking up layers of static grass or leaf flock into little piles?

>>96514913
You can get it from Warpfire minis. I just started buying from there and it'll probably be my go-to for the foreseeable future. No vallejo, but most of the other good paint brands.

>>96518038
build first those sistsers models are a real hassle to put together. the only thing I'd recommend is not attaching the bases because getting under the cloaks and skirts is tricky with a big 32mm base in the way.

>>96518269
Yeah plus you don't sprinkle grass, you either use an applicator or grab big tufts and stick them tight onto the glue.
What I do for leaves is drop a bunch of them on the glue and gently push them flat with a small spatula.
But yeah a couple layers look way better than one.

>>96518274
I'm in Europe but I appreciate the gesture anon

>>96514343
Do the bits actually work? I bought cheap china shit off aliexpress and they could even drill into plastic.

>>96518851
I own that exact same thing, at least visually. Works great

i'm painting my stupid kratos that I don't care about anymore but I have to because I don't want to throw it out.

>>96518986
Sounds awesome anon, just deserts for buying a kit you hate.

>>96519020
I deserve to suffer!

>>96518070
>>96518059
Walkways, rebar, metal or wooden fences/gates, maybe something like hammocks depending on your setting? Or like, those suicide prevention nets if you have verticality and can explain it, idk. Maybe cages, or a bunch of crates in a net held up by a crane at a dock or on a landing pad?

It's a tricky one because it looks useful but I'm not sure, keep us updated if you find a use though

>>96518683
In that case you have even better options

>>96517747
Cool. Have fun no longer being a forever DM

How effective is it to use something like the push fit minis in GW warbands for kitbashing? Obviously you have to cut everything up yourself since they're built in just a few pieces each normally, so you can't preserve everything. But might it be worth it to try and take bits of them for other uses? Or cut them up to put other stuff on them?

>>96519273
They are perfectly fine for kitbashing as long as you are able and willing to retrieve a fully formed limb/torso/whatever at the cost of potentially sacrificing the rest of the sculpt it's attached to.

Whether it is worth it or not, it entirely depends on your and your projects.

Do you guys find any utility using old frayed brushes at all? Base coating or transferring paint from pot to palette perhaps? I've tried restoring these old ones I have with Masters, but I also have replacements and wonder if it's even worth the effort, I just don't like being wasteful

>>96519319
Rough shit. Stippling, dry brushing, brushing on various kinds of glue or resin, applying texture paste. Pretty much anything that you don't want to use your good brushes on you can use old shit brushes for.

>>96519273
Space marines/sigmarites can be annoying because the shoulder pad is attached to the torso
But easy to take a weapon arm/head

>>96519273
>How effective is it to use something like the push fit minis in GW warbands for kitbashing?
Works great if you can pull it off. I like to have distinctive models in squads these days when I can swing it, and some of the push-fit models have unique poses and/or details. Three of the five models in Squad Venarro - everyone except the sergeant and the grenade chukka - are made from easy-to-build Intercessors that Citadel released at the beginning of 8th Edition.

>>96519545
>some of the push-fit models have unique poses and/or details
For example, the freebie Infernus Marine, 10th Edition "Getting Started with Warhammer 40,000" Infernus Marine, the three ladz in the 10th Edition paint starter, and the sergeant from Combat Patrol magazine all have poses and/or features that are not in the five-man squad Citadel sent home in the mail with samples of Tide.

I'm trying to make a diorama on this knight's base. I actually kind of love the skitarii I made? But the goal is to build up the base to have this little techpriest and his bodyguard running around with their favorite Rampager.

Shitty picture but for this scrapjet you basically have to build and paint this grot gunner before you prime the model. What's the best way to get some primer on the part where my masking tape was?

>>96519805
Brush on primer.

>>96519799
You might want to use the Open Camera app for pictures

Tit horses wip

>>96521092
>>96521104
would

>>96521112
That the point

>>96521104
I understand garish is what you were aiming for, but you achieved it a little too well. Like the freehand squiggles and tiddies though.

>>96521123
would, too

>>96521392
Painted a head. Really pleased with how the freehand came out.

Oops, didn't mean to respond.

>>96521434
Naisu, very clean

>>96521434
Looks great anon, clean indeed. The nose of the skull is upside down though.

>>96521475
>>96521517
Thanks. Also fuck.

>>96521517
its a heart, uwu skull

>>96520699
That is open camera lmao. I used google photos to crop it but its 100% open camera

>>96520699
>open camera is a silver bullet
This meme needs to die. It's a good app that helps often, but it is nowhere near universally applicable. It tends to perform like shit (ie: worse than default) on a lot of samsung phones/cameras, for example.

Some more tool tips for the /wip/ bros.

It's well known that dropper bottle paints have some shortcomings.

Mainly a clogged "faucet" on the dripper bottle itself. Obviously it is easy enough to fix. You just get something pokey like a piece of brass rod, a toothpick, whatever. With a brass rod you've got to wipe it off and wash it down, especially with metallics. Toothpicks are disposable and easily work, but they're a one and done sort of thing. What I use is pic related. Get yourself some gardening or floral wire, cut some off and then spool it around something like this. From there you just unspool a little bit, unclog, and snip off the used portion with some cheap sidecutters. Reload as needed. You can also unspool as much as you need, so length is not an issue if the clog is deeper in. Obviously you could just keep the wire spool in its entirety itself. I find the smaller spool saves desk space and is more portable and ergonomic because you've got something to hold onto and it isn't excessive in size. Little things to make the workflow smoother can go a long way. I just keep the thing on the outside of my wet palette when not using either so it's there whenever I have started painting, ready to go if needed.

Second one is probably one some of you have already considered. Puppy pads. They have a quilted top that absorbs moisture, and a non porous material like latex or thin rubber underneath.

If you have limited space, or say only have a carpeted area that you can use, these will come in handy a lot. Even if you don't, I still recommend them because they're handy no matter what. If you're doing terrain work with basing material getting all over the place, for example. Just throw down a couple puppy pads in the area and you're good.

The other big advantage is that you can take advantage of the quilted part even further. If you take a spritz bottle and wet it all down until it's fairly moist you can then use the area for sanding, filing metal or resin, scraping mould lines cutting wood, whatever it might be. The moist quilted part will catch the filings and debris and trap it so you can just roll up the pads and chuck them when you're done. That way there's no harmful materials laying around or getting places you don't want them to be. Again, this can be very, very handy if you have limited space.

They also can be useful to have a clean surface for sculpting with milliput or green stuff if you turn them upside down with the rubber or latex etc facing up. Protects your work table, keeps the sculpting surface and work area clean.

They can be bought at most dollar stores, Costco has cheap bulk packs too.

>>96521092
>>96521104
>>96521123
>>96521137

>>96521972
>t. "big camera" shill

>>96521434
kawaii

>>96521972
i recently got a new phone and i'm having better results with a gcam port than opencamera

the state of phone cameras is ridiculous, it's baffling how bad the procesing is most of the time and using raw is too much of a hassle, i actually wish that project indigo fixes it

>>96522309
Fully agreed. The worst part is that you definitely CAN shoot really good photos with phone cameras, it's just that 90% of the time the post-processing is such an abhorrent fucking cancer it's unbelievable. Oftentimes, you can use RAW, but it feels like manufacturers are actively trying to fuck you over.
Once again I have to spit on normalfags because this is clearly what they are after.

How on earth do 28 types look at this and say "yeah that's painted sick bro"

>>96521972
It's not about performance, it's about avoiding the automatic filters installed in most phone cameras that destroy the detail of your paint job, so people can't see what the fuck you did.

>>96522667
And as I said, oftentimes open camera makes it worse.

>>96522754
Worse how?

Progress on the wyvern and orc boss. Still another painting session to go I think, going to varnish this for today and call it here.

>>96522529
how do you look at this and say anything it's all fucking blurry man

>>96521972
i have the one iphone that doesnt let you turn off the post processing shit and i have enjoyed using Halide

New thread:

>>96523001
>>96523001
>>96523001