Thread 96495392

This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
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- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
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>Resources
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>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
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Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

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>Last Thread: >>96438447

Anyone else have an anycubic m7 that their having issues with? Had it for a while and lately it's not able to print the same level of detail or model in general that it used to. Tried re-leveling it, changing settings, changing to the standard resin v2 but nothing seems to work.

Gotta buy some more resin.
Last time I got elegoo 2.0, but there's 3.0 floating around slightly cheaper.
Is there a big difference? Google is giving me conflicting results.

>>96497693
Get sunlu/jayo abs-like dark grey
Don't bother with elegoo
Also IIRC elegoo 3.0 is objectively worse than 2.0

>>96497927
I'm not seeing either of those where I am, in stores I'd usually look at, or on Amazon. What's the advantage over the Elegoo? Only problem I've had is it's a bit fragile and can shatter easily, but I'm relatively new to printing.

My bambu labs P1S arrived today. Ive been printing in resin and been happy with the results but im hoping an fdm printer will help me for the really large terrain and tanks.

Any tips for tanks beside the usual 0.2mm nozzle and slower speeds?

>>96497970
I get it from ebay
It's just the pinnacle of abs-like resin with very high durability and can be flexed a lot

>>96498051
Just ordered it.
I'll see how it goes, I guess. Cheers.

'Hawk

Just did the rear section and now doing the wings

>>96495392 (OP)

Okay. /3dpg/

I would like your help to find complete models for the imperial guard, raw unprocessed scans preferred no proxy's

1st.
>Baneblade
POST LINKS

>>96498222
An intact STC for the baneblade untainted by the forces of proxies.

>>96498222
sorry, I meant to say 3rd edition imperial stormtrooper and steel legion scans

>>96498240
Here’s why the Baneblade poster wants a raw 3D scan with no edits for 3D modeling and conversion:

>1. It keeps the real-world scale and proportions intact. Every component, from the cannon to the tracks, is >accurately represented in terms of size and placement. Many reworked models mess with these proportions, >changing how parts like the engine stacks or sponsons fit together, which can throw off the overall feel.
>2. The scan captures all the fine details, like wiring, guards, and gunners, that are easy to lose in a reworked >model. When you mess with a model, you risk changing small but important features that affect the look and >function of the build. With a raw scan, all those minute details are preserved, giving you a solid foundation to >build from.
>3. Starting with a raw scan means you’ve got the freedom to tweak things as you want without screwing up the >proportions or important details. A process model from someone else can change those details, mess with >scale, or throw off proportions without you even knowing. Plus, a lot of proxy models mess with the proportions >of components, altering the general shape and size, and throwing off the overall look.

>>96498222
SHUT UP
JUST SHUT THE FUCK UP

>>96498306
Here is why he really wants it:
>Autism

>>96498222
>>96498306
If anon can afford a printer he can afford a phone.

If anon can afford a phone he can afford a baneblade plastic kit.

If anon can afford the time to use a printer or a phone to shitpost he can afford the time to do his own scan of a baneblade.

Simple as.

took me all of five minutes to find a baneblade kit on telegram tf is wrong with this guy

>>96498306
Talking about yourself in 3rd person is fucking gay and you need to fuck off
>>96498376
>use a printer or a phone to shitpost
>use a printer o̶r̶ ̶a̶ ̶p̶h̶o̶n̶e̶ to shitpost
>use a printer to shitpost
I havent done that since i used to fax pictures of my penis to my old workplace in 90s
>>96498487
>tf is wrong with this guy
as >>96498369 said autism. and the need to be talked about online because their world is a sad an lonely place. the best move is just ignore them because we're all feeding their cry for attention.

>>96498487
Why does the demolisher look different from the games workshop kit?

>>96498487
Forge world

>>96498487
Ah. Yes, the Baneblade that looks suspiciously like a stormhammer.

>>96498487
GETS ABSOLUTELY DUMPED ON FOR POSTING SOLAR AUXILIARY STORMHAMMER.

>>96498147
What layer height? How long did it take?

>>96498487
>Stormhammer

Still cool though

>>96499341
Expect to get rid of baneblade poster and break the curse, you have to post a baneblade stl. He's done neither.

can you queers please stop giving the autist oxygen and post some god damn prints

>>96499541
sure thing here's a model I was thinking about printing

>>96499750
What's it look like with four sponsons and no sponsons? and attachments and no attachments?

>>96499949
Are you russian seller?

>>96499328
0.20mm for 12 hours. I considered 0.03mm but the time would have been silly long for such a large piece. I did the rear section for 14 hours at 0.20mm too but I am at work so no photo of that for now.

>>96499750
>>96499750
SCRATCH MODELLED* Chinese non the less.

I was told you were the resinfags by /diy/.

I print videogame console enclosures so feel free to ignore my question if it's not related enough.

I'm looking to get the same results I get from ordering prints from PCB way at home.

I have a UniFormation GKtwo and I use Siraya Tech resin.
My prints are sharper than PCBway's but mine are brittle, screws shatter any posts I try to screw in to but my prints have sharper corners but are less transparent, I don't mind losing some transparency but I would want to tint the resin dark.

I'm considering printing flat to get the best bottom/top surfaces but I'd need a printer that can handle 150mm, at present I'm printing at an angle and sanding.
What can I do to get the same results as them?

Should I print this?

>>96500528
You probably want a clear resin that's called something like tough, flexible, or ABS-like. A gloss coat of varnish will help a lot with getting stuff as clear as theirs, doing it just by sanding and then buffing with various polishing compounds will take aeons. If you're going all in on clear resin then maybe a 385nm printer might give you slightly better print quality, that's the sales pitch at least.

>>96500783
>

>>96500528
>My prints are sharper than PCBway's but mine are brittle, screws shatter any posts I try to screw in to
Try looking into heated inserts so you can have a stronger threads for your screws. All you need is a soldering iron.

>>96500783
What is constructor its not a Canon vehicle i an aware of?

>>96501550
boss it means its a banblade construction kit not a type of tank called a constructor

Quick question: I ordered a 3d printed model, and there's a part that's still a bit goopy and sticky, like it's not fully cured. Can I just leave it under a UV light for a bit to rectify that? I don't know anything about this stuff.

>>96501627
firsly, are you sure it's 3D printed and not cast resin?
secondly: yes, if it's 3D printed you can leave it under a UV light or under direct sunlight and it will cure

You can remove resin residue with any pharmacy alcohol >90º

>>96501728
>firsly, are you sure it's 3D printed and not cast resin?
Yeah, it's still got some straggler supports and stuff.
>secondly: yes, if it's 3D printed you can leave it under a UV light or under direct sunlight and it will cure
>You can remove resin residue with any pharmacy alcohol >90º
Thank you!

>>96501601
Is it base baneblade or the stormhammer

>>96501963
It's the baneblade plus all variations

>>96501408
Seconding the threaded inserts. Anon here is right, the heated ones are probably the best for what you're using them for and will look the best after one or two practice fuck-ups. There's also versions that are friction-fit, which aren't as structurally stable as the heat-set, and versions that you glue in, which tend to look less neat than the heat-set. The glued inserts are okay if you hate the idea of using a soldering iron for some reason.

>want to 3d print something
>everyone that has a 3d printer acts like a fucking diva
>3d printing services are asking so much that I might as well pay full GW price
I really do not want to buy a fucking printer for a couple of models.

>>96502532
Then you pay for them. It's really that simple.

>>96502532
what do you want, do you live in the USA, do you have a way I can contact you

>>96502532
>everyone that has a 3d printer acts like a fucking diva
if you had a 3D printer you'd understand it's a hassle and nothing like a normal printer

>UHH YOU JUST HIT PRINT.. and uhh.. .can you print this for me?... IT CAN'T BE THAT EXPENSIVE
pay or get printing nigger

>>96502644
>the hassle
>press print
No wonder anon called you a diva

>>96502592
>>96502644
Think you are missing the GW price part. $50 dollars for 5 models, might as well just buy the 5 models from GW, oddly enough GW sells them for $45
>>96502638
Sadly I live in Necromunda, but I usually travel to the USA and back.

Alright /3dpg/, I need advice

I recently bought some 3D printed models. The owner made the mistake of hollowing them out but he didn't put any drainage holes.

So now I have ten models that have liquid resin inside. It's been some months and two of them have already started leaking liquid resin in places.

I have a hand drill, but I also have a printer myself.
Could I save the models by manually drilling holes in all of them and draining them by hand, potentially making a mess? Or should I just throw them away and print them myself? I've already been refunded the money so either option is fine by me.

Pic unrelated

>>96502936
>Could I save the models by manually drilling holes in all of them and draining them by hand
I did this with some stuff I didn't realize had voids until afterwards.
Worked pretty well but did make a mess. I did it with the models submerged in IPA.

>>96503000
What size would you recommend for the drill? Will it all drain out with just 1mm diameter?

>>96503082
Might work. I would go a little bigger but it depends on what part of the model you are drilling into. Aim for the biggest void area.

Just use a small size then go up if you need to. If it doesn't drain enough go bigger.

>>96500827
Can I use a blend of different resins?
Any specific reocmendations?
What’s the best way to tint resins?
>>96501408
Roger that, heat inserts it is

>>96502936
You could drill a hole inside and put 405nm leds into the interiors to cure it

i only have this model

>>96503897
oh wait i also have this one

I went through 100 nitrile gloves in my first week of printing

>>96504246
I don't even bother with a glove anymore.

>>96504569
I don't want to develop a sensitivity
If it were just health risks I wouldn't care

Fuck it, anyone have Skinks? I hate the One Page Rules headdresses on every gecko model.

Anyone know any artist that 3D prints heavy melee weapons that would look good on Chaos Space Marines Legionaries? Just noticed the old combat patrol doesn't come with all the Kill Team Box options so might as well print something cool myself.

I'm thinking of buying some STLs from Wargame Atlantic or Medbury Minatures and sending them to a local company that prints. Do STLs have their size in the file or do I need to tell the company how big I want each print?

>>96506270
When you load an STL and put it on your build plate it tells you how tall the model will be printed with supports so kind of but not really

>>96499750
>>96499870
>>96503897
>>96503942
Can you just post the model so, anon leaves.

>>96500283
Also is it scratch made model!? will he be satisfied.

>>96506276
So if I dled the files and sent them to the print company without opening them. When they load the files into the software it will give them the saved print size setting of the file, or it will give then the default print size of their printer/setup?

Of should I just tell them how big I want them and hope they can do they math, subtracting supports and stuff?

>>96506270
The default size is in the file, and most files are scaled to 28mm already. Some a a bit bigger, others a bit smaller, just like with regular miniatures. In the slicer software you can set a percentage of size too, like print at 80% size, or print at 145% size and you can tell a company to do that, but how big that will end up being is something you need to find out yourself.