Thread 96732099

Work in Progress, Converted Stunty Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96714857
>>96689200
>>96666221
>>96650158

>2025
aHR0cHM6Ly9mb3Jtcy5nbGUvemZxWjNGRDZIOXF2bVF5WDc=

Stinkers are ready, now on to the herdstone.

>>96732175
>whole woman crucified upside-down as war-banner
Based and redpilled
>Most people only fly the skin.

>>96732175
>proper dirty and violent goatdudes
nice

>>96732103
Thanks for reposting!
So far, we have 40 participants. i guess 90% are veterans of previous years.

Do we have so little influx in this thread, or does almost nobody else dare to sign up?

>>96732175
I hope so much for a good deal on some old world beastmen during black friday.
These old beastmen models are criminally underrated gems in GWs model range, and i've yet to see some printed beastmen that match them. They either fuck up the faces, or poses, or they are overdetailed as fuck, like so many digital sculpts

It really is a shame they are not more popular.

>>96732103
How do I sign up? I did it last year

>>96732216
It's only been 10 days for the signups, I figure we'll get more till the end of the month

>>96732216
Are you sending out confirmation emails? I signed up but didn't get one.

Reposting the question - what did you use to edit your spinny videos, anons? Even at lowest quality I could get on my phone it was still 12 mb which is way over 4chans 4mb limit. https://files.catbox.moe/wemb1i.mp4

>>96732103
Brotha I literally have no clue how to access this link.

>>96732216
I'm still not sure since I AM a bit scared - including bit giving good enough gift to make other person happy.

>>96732216
>meanwhile /40kg/ SS is at 3 signups after almost 2 months

>>96732375
>brings up 40kg
>is a nigger or identifies as a nigger
Unsurprising

>>96732262
Same as last year. Decode the link from the post above and answer the google sheet.

>>96732291
No i do not send anything. You could have ticked a box in the sheet i think. Send me an email and i'll tell you if you are in or not.

>>96732450
Last year I remember there being a link where you submitted your info, I don't remember having to decode anything. I thought the link was just posted. Can you at least give me a hint how I'm supposed to decode it, I literally have no idea.

>>96732476
NTA but look up that santa image in the archive, he explained how to do it the first time he posted it

>>96732375
seems they're more wise to scams than people here

>>96732490
go back

>>96732487
I know I sound suspicious, but idk how to access the archive either, and I've been posting here since like 2014, I'm a very casual

Reply with the best numbers and worst numbers if you want to help with science.

>>96732723
They're all the same you turbo-autist.

>>96732729
Fuck dude, I have a cat and my minis don't get that hairy.

>>96732723
>>96732729
They all suck dick because they're acrylic "primers". Get lacquer primer if you want it to be good, otherwise might as well stick to chaos black spray

>>96732723
What is this, black primer? A good black primer needs to:
1: Read as black
2: Apply thin enough to avoid clogging details
3: Bind to the surface more securely than plain paint

A photo of primers painted on spoons is only useful for #1, and... yep, they're all black. The exact tint or finish is pretty irrelevant for a layer that's going to be 99% covered with other paint, so there's really nothing to rate.

>>96732926
4. not be grainy

>>96732968
Are there even any grainy black primers? That's usually a white problem.

>>96732926
The goal isn't to check for any of those things.
I'm just looking at surface texture to minimize grain and figure out what causes it specifically in unthinned primers. Anybody can apply paint thinned and get a smooth finish but that supposedly ruins the primer qualities you actually want from a primer so why bother at that point.
This is a really matte primer so I expect some level of texture when really zoomed in, but the goal is to minimize it so that it's not apparent at a macro level at all. The above are just different airbrush settings and application styles.
Just as an example that seems pretty unbiased, in the last row 423 is notably worse than the others, and then a little more subjectively 421 or 424 are probably tied for best. At least in that row.

5 immortals down, 15 to go.

>>96733023
>that supposedly ruins the primer qualities you actually want from a primer
where did you hear that? I challenge you to get unthinned mr surfacer to even go through an airbrush. the only thing you need to worry about for your airbrish is that you aren't getting orange peel or dry spray .

>>96733101
We both know that you know that comment doesn't apply to lacquer primers.

>>96732521
>>96732216
I don't know how to get on either, to be honest. That's why I haven't signed up this year

>>96733121
what's the difference between what chemical gunk it's made of?

>>96732753
NTA but what lacquer primer would you recommend?

>>96733400
NTA
Any hobby brand lacquer primer is immeasurably better than any acrylic product for priming.
The trade-offs that make lacquer not appealing to use aren't in the result you get, it is fundamentally a strict upgrade in all categories over an acrylic primer. There are trade-offs, but it's in requiring use of harsher chemicals and safety.
While qualities of an acrylic primer matters because they're middling and range from good to bad, every lacquer primer is solidly in the good or higher tier, as they should be given the added difficulty in applying it. Difficulty in the setup and equipment sense, not skill, it's also easier to apply a good lacquer coat.

>>96732146
That's some nice work.
>>96733046
Lookin' good.

How difficult is it supposed to be to cut through polystyrene/plasticard? I have 1.5 mm thickness and I can't get through it except with actual heavy equipment, like scissors meant for cutting through metal. Isn't this shit meant to be cut with a hobby knife?

>>96733884
>Isn't this shit meant to be cut with a hobby knife?
Yes. Take a ruler (metal is the best) and then make like five shallow cuts along the same line and then just break it off.

MYEH

First time doing flames. How'd I do?

>>96734134
I think they look great, anon.

>>96734134
Are you colourblind? They're green

>>96734134
I'd up the contrast a bit in both directions, make the root of the flames a bit brighter and go all the way to near black at the very tips.

>>96734261
so the pig has copper blood.

>>96734077
I AM NOT NICE

>>96734077
I feel like you could've went for a brighter bone color so it contrasts more with the gold

>>96734077
Lovely skeletor.

>>96734134
Not bad at all for your first try. The weapon flames look fine. Something looks off to me about the flames on the back, though I can't quite point out why. Something about the lighting is definitely off though.
You can definitely follow anon's advice and up the contrast in both directions though. A small amount of white or near-white at the hottest core of the flame and a black-green at the highest point.

>>96732327
Find yourself a based decoder wink

>>96732262
>>96732327
decode using the based 64 method

>>96732327
>brotha
I'm an only child, nigger.

Some patterns exist here.
For reference the numbers are a code for that they are,
First digit: airbrush PSI [15/20/25/30] (1-4)
Second digit: distance [8-12cm/15-20cm] (1-2) (131-134 was originally at 25-30cm, which was just silly far and nobody would ever paint like that, so I cut it out for subsequent runs)
third digit: coating strategy:
>1 - one thick coat (not enough to pool or drip ofc)
>2 - two normal coats
>3 - 4 thin coats
>4 - 1 thin coat, then 1 thick coat

This is with monument's black airbrush primer, unthinned, shaken a lot before use and immediately before each airbrush refill (2 to 3 times per PSI change), and the airbrush thoroughly cleaned with lacquer thinner between each PSI change as well so it's as clean as it gets.

I sorted them all and then scored them based on their position from 1-5
(top 10% - 5, 70-90% - 4, 30-70% - 3, 10-30% - 2, 0-10% - 1)
obviously a little subjective, but I'm hoping the broad categories smooth that out a bit.

>Spray distance
had virtually no impact (far scored 1 point higher, not even close to statistically significant in this data). It did have a notably worse score on the 4-thin-coats than the close distance, so I would probably recommend spraying closer anyway for higher chance at consistently better coats, but overall not significant, especially given the results of the 4-thin-coats option which we'll get to.

>PSI
15 < 20 < 25 == 30. That was the highest I tested, but probably starts to hit diminishing returns and worse results soon after 30.

>coating strategy
This is the interesting one with by far the biggest difference across all other factors. 4 thin coats is by far the worst option. 2 medium coats is next with a about a 30% improvement, then 1 thin+1 thick coat sees a big improvement, and 1 thick coat is the winner. Both nearly double the score of 4 thin coats.

What's a good material for chunky bricks like in the terrain for picrel?

>>96734813
My theory for the takeaway on the coating strategy is that while with spraypants and lacquers with stronger solvents as long as the paint isn't drying in the air it reactivates the previous layer a little and they bond and self-level just a little bit, and this isn't happening with acrylic because the solvent is too weak. So the best strategy is to just flood the surface with the fewest number of layers you can get away with without pooling in recesses, which is less of a concern unthinned I would imagine because it's not going to run into cracks the way a heavily thinned paint would.
Even though 1 thick coat technically scored a little higher because the error margins are so high 1 thin coat and then 1 coat for coverage is probably the best overall option, because the thin coat providing some tooth should help minimize the chances of the thicker coat running or pooling in cracks, and it's texture will get evened out by the next coat. basically you'd want the coat to look wet on your final coat.

For best results, 25-30psi, anywhere from 8-15 cm is fine, and as few coats as possible with the last coat appearing wet without enough to cause dripping or pooling.

>>96734836
Forgot pic

>>96734813
if your spray distance is too far you risk dry spray. if your air pressure is too low you risk orange peel. all of this depends on your particular spray gun design, needle size, and what you're actually spraying. usually application pattern is to do multiple passes until you get the "wet look." if you're having trouble with multiple passes you should try adding a few drops of retarder.

I'm pretty satisfied with my current painting skill and progress, but my basing ability is shit. How can I git gud? I have a good supply of basing materials, but my biggest problem might just be creative decision making. I can't settle on a theme and so far I've mostly just defaulted to shitty dirt wasteland.

>>96732476
>>96732521
NTA. I mean, you could look up "4chan archivers" that have /tg/. look up 4plebs. It's a minor annoyance but we have to encrypt our links because some botting faggot gets his jollies shitting links up.

Is the army painter fanatic starter set a good place to start or should I just puzzle out what colors I'll want and buy them?
Also, I saw people say army painters paints weren't that great but that the fanatic stuff is good? Or should I get Vallejo or another brand?

>>96734836
>>96734843
foam works and is the weapon of choice for most model builders. You can carve the texture into the foam or build them brick by brick for a more ramshackle/ruined look.
You can add metal braces like from the AoS terrain with cardboard and use coffestirrers or balsa wood for the wood details. Common building materials for Mordheim buildings.
>pic via random image search/pinterest

I've also seen a guy who build molds out of foamcore, cast walls and arches in plaster and carved the mortar lines with a dentist's tool before it was fully cured. Looked great, but not something you can transport easily if you want a table's worth of scenery.

>>96735502
>Is the army painter fanatic starter set a good place to start or should I just puzzle out what colors I'll want and buy them?
There are a good selection of colors in that set. You may want most of those in your collection eventually anyway if you start from nothing at all and you paint more than one army/scheme.
Generally speaking paint sets tend to sit on shelves longer than individual colors so sometimes you get a set that needs some serious elbow grease to mix up before you can use them. The other reason people are wary of sets sometimes is that you end up buying paints you have no use for. A set with primary colors, black, white, brown and some metallics is a reasonable slection though and you can't do anything wrong there.

>Also, I saw people say army painters paints weren't that great but that the fanatic stuff is good? Or should I get Vallejo or another brand?
The truth is that quality is less a manufacture to manufactuer issue than an individual paint to paint issue. There are some general differences in consistency between ranges and if you get into the weeds with mixing colors it can make a difference what you get, because of the pigments used. AP had a bit of a rocky start as the cheap alternative on the market, but their quality seems to have caught up to what most other brands offer these days. They are called 3.0 because they canged the formula of their paints that many times, so a lot of that criticism was about their previous products. Their washes are some of the best you can get. The metallic paints are usually where opinions differ a lot.

If you like them or not really just comes down to how you like to paint, so it's all very subjective. The truth is that paint is paint and all ranges on the market these days are good at what they are supposed to do.

Vallejo Mecha primer(top), and GaiaNotes Evo Surfacer (bottom).
1: 1-thick-cloat, 2: 2 normal coats, 3: 4 thin coats, 4: 1 thin + 1 thick coat

Had a little bit of orange peel on the mecha primer's 1 thick coat, and even a little on the 2 normal coats (that one was probably my bad, but the 1 thick coat having it isn't that surprising.) It's more of a satin finish than the other primers, and definitely holds up to multiple coats better than the matte monument primer does. For Vallejo mecha, many thin coats seems to be the best option, but as long as you aren't flooding it you should be fine.
Note, that while airbrushing a base over mecha primer is great in my experience, brushing over it I've had issues of paint repelling or beating up on the first coat, I'm guessing this is because of it's more satin finish.

Unsurprisingly the lacquer primer is consistent across the board. The surfacer is more matte than the mecha primer, but note quite as matte as the actual matte monument primer.

>>96735502
Short answer: it's fine, you're a beginner so you need to first learn how to be neat and handle the paint anyway.


long answer: first identify what you want to paint and the colors you'll need. most fantasy and some scifi models have leather bits. you can use black for leather but brown will serve you better.

you don't need the brush on primer,, it's easier and better to use something like pic rel. A matte grey or black color primer. It will be cheaper and more convenient than buying individual colors. For a smooth, nice coat, you don't want to paint straight yellow or green. You can get some great results with that kit.
>paint it green
>shade it lightly with strong tone
>highlight with the green again after it dries
>mix a touch of yellow or white into your green and do one more small highlight

it's a good set and you'll be fine with it but once your know what you like to paint you can get the required colors.

All the other big brands like AK, Pro acryl, and nu vallejo are fine to good. I find that AK is among the best. Citadel is fine and easy to find but overpriced. For vallejo, I recommend model color since game color is brighter and harder to get a clean coat vs the darker, stronger colors in the model color line.

>>96735867
Interestingly, the visible particle size of the surface texture, outside of where the mecha primer coalesced into a glossier surface due to overspraying, is actually larger than with the best examples of the matte monument primer even in the lacquer.
Looking at the monument primer results though, most of them were actually servicable and I don't think they would have a texture problem (and none of these ones did, only the worst 1/4 of the monument ones would have proven to have a texture issue.

So I think after all the checking, main issue that I've been having with the monument primer is doing too many thin coats. and as long as I stick to a decently wet coat it shouldn't have any texture issues.

>>96734945
I don't base at all but it's mostly because I don't have inspiration. I can't paint anything unless I have a vision or goal pictued in my head that I try to recreate. Bases never tickle my fancy enough to make it. How can a director make a satisfying film or direct his crew if they don't have a vision for the story or look of the film?

Try looking at other people's bases or nature photos for inspo

Captain coming along. Gonna highlight him tomorrow.

>>96736015
are you gonna edge highlight? I stopped painting marines cause they look weird to me with edge highlights and i didn't know how to glaze back then (still can't do it very well now)

>>96736033
oh yeah for sure. I think they look really flat without them. You can get them done pretty quickly as well.

How do I paint latex costumes?

>>96736168
I'm too lazy to post it rn, but just google catwoman costume or something, follow that, probably something like deep black, bright white or near-white specular highlights, and some dark grey secondary highlighting shapes.

>>96736190
The only video I can find is airbrush only for a large scale model

>>96736168
NMM black is basically the same concept

>>96736257
You can emulate airbrush effect with makeup sponge, it's little tricky but doable. Remember about keeping the moisture and periodically squeeze out paint in water container so it won't dry inside.

>what's with that screaming?
>oh, it's just Karen

>>96734836
like >>96735735 says
foam,hot wire cutter, cut each brick, put them in a bag with actual rocks, shake them for a while
that gives you worn out bricks without sharp corners that you then use to build whatever brick by brick, you can just place one on top of another or use a backing of cardboard or foamcore

that would give the best results, you could also skip the tumbling and add texture after building with crumpled tinfoil, or a rock, check this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5iV_EBDL34

>>96735867
i had this happen with mrsurfacer too

>>96735867
>>96736426
meant to quote this
>brushing over it I've had issues of paint repelling or beating up on the first coat,

Anyone familiar with making lava bases?
I'm trying to create some for my chaos warriors army
32mm didn't go as well as I'd hope.
The stream turned out to be too think, making it hard to put the mini on and T/Y streams only make it harder.
Should I scrap these and try again ?

>>96736482
>Should I scrap these and try again ?
yes, that looks like mustard
not sure what you used for the lava itself but you need it to flow instead of beading like that, if its pva ading a bit of ipa might helpt to loser surface tension

you also need more saturated colors

I let my nails grow out on one hand because I've been practising finger picking and now when I'm painting I keep accidentally scratching models when I'm holding them steady for detail work. This is a pain in the ass.

>>96736506
I tried using hot glue gun for lava, but definitely screwed up, hence the breaking flow.
Any recommendations about which colors to use?
How much can I paint with air brush and what will I need to paint with hand ?

>>96732375
You can see ITT how people struggle to decode a simple link with Base64, which is probably the most basic encryption method there is.
Are you really surprised that the /40kg/ version with its 15 layers of encryption and other methods of security is too complicated for your average /tg/-poster?

received some free deathguard. Started painting last night.

>>96736525
>hot glue
yeah that won't get any better

check this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anouG00C-O0

>>96736561
how? somebody moving out, somebody die, somebody quitting, your birthday, somebody's mom gave them away?

>>96735502
modern army painter is better than modern vallejo. there are exceptions and almost every brand has its stand out paints, but generally I would recommend any new painter start with army painter in 2025.

>>96736704
>2 AP bucks were added to your account

>>96736723
let's not start this shit again

>>96736723
For two more I'll say that the opacity is extremely good on all the fanatics paints I've tried and the self-levelling makes them really forgiving when slapping paint on for wet blending. Downside of that is they're not much good for glazing and dry too fast when over-thinned anyway (feathering edges problematic). The colours also tend towards the light and desaturated ends of the spectrum, missing real shadow tones without a wash applied.

I love them but have had to unlearn some cope techniques from the dark days of Scale 75 being an elite brand.

>>96736780
I wouldn't say they "tend" towards the light and desaturated, because most of the range simply is light and desaturated. Especially their greens/olives are borderline criminal and useless. Apart from the Blanche set, there are basically no good dark, vivid colors. Then there is still the reactivation issue (albeit now only in a fairly specific cases), and I personally don't like their scummy marketing practices.

With that said, there are good colors with AP, and their washes are excellent. HOWEVER, I think that 3rd Gen. AK paints are better across the board, but more importantly consistent in everything, and the range is even bigger. And considering they mostly cost about the same nowadays, I see little reason of getting AP.
t. own ~70 AP paints.

>>96736681
A friend who was living with his wife's family had their house foreclosed on. They did not want to take any 40k stuff with them, and didn't want any compensation for it even when asked. I ended up partially paying for a nice dinner for them though, but it wasn't nearly the cost of the models I received.

>>96736780
>>96736818
they are light nad desaturated becuase they have a bunch of white/grey to achieve their coverage

Making the LoTD captain.
Dryfitting to check how bits look together for now.

>>96736565
Thanks, I also found his old tutorial on basic lava
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81S7lIpGGNA

>>96736818
I use the teal set for my green marines and really like it. Did pick up AK's dark sea blue which fits really well as a half step darker than scarab green when needed, but the consistency is a thinner and it's more transparent so I have to use it as a layer rather than wet blending directly over light grey primer as with the fanatic paints.

>>96736889
that tactical rock is too big, the knee is unconfortably high

Very close to completing this project. Just need to wait for the resin to dry, paint a few rock reflections, maybe add some leaves and a layer of gloss varnish

>>96737091
Is that a mirror in the water?

>>96737091
Hold on did you paint that reflection yourself? Holy shit

>>96734506
>>96734375
Thanks for the advice anons. I increased the brightness by a lot on the back flames, and used a bit of white ink in the hottest spots on all of them. I think they're looking a bit better now.

>>96737198
Thanks doc.

>>96737086
I think it's just the angle of the photo. I'm using the torso from picrelated as a base, it doesn't look particularly unnatural.

Anyone here know of a continental Europe (re)seller of 2(two)mm figures (and ideally matching scale terrain) Currently I can only find print files, and I don't have a printer nor have printer services near me.

>>96732216
I'm a broke lurker, but will sign up one year, when I can actually send something nice.

>>96732216
I am new(ish) here, but I am more into historicals and scale model (WW2 planes and tanks), so I rarely post and mainly come here for ideas and inspirations. I wouldn't know what to get you regular guys, other than following a wishlist to a T.

>>96737359
I can't believe how good that terrain looks for something that seems to be simply primary school watercolours applied to paper/cardboard with a large square brush.

>>96737242
imo that looks a bit too high still, but that one has the arms open so it doesn't look so cramped

>>96737099
>>96737110
It's painted on a clear plastic sheet. I took a picture of the model from underneath, printed it, glued it underneath the plastic and then copied it. I did stuff like this before, but this is the first time I'm putting it on top of epoxy resin, before I just painted the water blue.

Printed out a necron to see what some very much not acrylic metallics will do to him (somewhat inspired by Forge World's very shiny original Tomb Stalker paintjob from back in the day).
Step 1: gloss black. Nothing else will do.

Printed out a necron to see what some very much not acrylic metallics will do to him (somewhat inspired by Forge World's very shiny original Tomb Stalker paintjob from back in the day).
Step 1: gloss black. Nothing else will do.

>>96736482
Do it the way everyone else does, paint the base a swirl of reds, oranges and yellows and then apply crackle paint overtop and drybrush that black when it's cured.

>>96736889
I recognize that skull. Godspeed mr skeleton man

I haven't decided on the color of the talberd and power sword, if anyone has any suggestions

Some Alclad later. Tried a bit of a zenithal, but between the limited difference between the paints (dark aluminium and white aluminium) and the issues these paints have whenever you put them on top of anything but black (lots of transparency) nothing much came of it. Some Mr Paint duraluminium on the gun, but the bits that had been hit when I sprayed the body likewise didn't change much from it.
Finally a quick coat of Vallejo gloss, using something water-based to minimise the risk of any effect whatsoever on the metallics. (These are not rugged paints, and any chance for the metallic flakes to move tends to dull the sheen a lot). Mostly trading the slight dulling here from the risk of more extensive dulling when I pin-wash it. The gloss coat also wanted to bead up on the surface of the metallics, so assuming it eventually settled in (sorta, mostly) it'll probably also be good for making the wash behave.

>>96736561
god damn, free lord of contagion lucky duck
hope your friend's situation improves

>>96737242
>>96736889
the reference looks fine but in tandem with everything else on your captain it just doesn't look right
just the toe being on that rock while the rest of him leans back (and away from the sword) looks like he's falling over and about to drop everything
in my minds eye i feel like if you angled everything a little more forward and maybe made the head look that angle to the right instead of left it might feel better but as of now i feel like the pose is very bunched up and it's not clear what motion he's making, even the resting knee weapon show-off doesn't really look like the way you would if you were holding a heavy sword

And done. Just a quick little paint test really to make the Good Idea Fairy stop bugging me about it.

>>96737859
Creamy, yellowish bone for the blade and gun perhaps?

>>96738143
Not done, gotta finish that gun barrel, you've only got the first layer of green down.

>>96738182
I put on a translucent coat there to let the metal underneath shine through. Same with the bayonet blade.

>>96738143
He looks really cool and shiny, but you've yet to finish the barrel.

>>96738143
why no clear rod?

>>96738217
Partially because I have no clear resin at hand, partially because the stl was a one piece affair.

>>96738194
It doesn't work, gotta do layered highlights in a lengthwise strip on each side.
Doing the rod separate in translucent green resin would be best, but I realize that's a monetary and time investment far beyond just painting it nice.

>>96738194
>the bayonet blade.
Also a mistake, should just be shiny metal.

>>96738254
How about you let him paint his plastic toys however the fuck he wants lol

>>96738303
If anon didn't want comments and criticism, he wouldn't have posted it online and certainly not on 4chan.
Go back to your safespace hugbox, faggot.

Working on sipahi cavalry, highlights for the golden parts need to be done after a wash has been applied and base colours also need to be standardized. The splint barding is excellent for drybrushing.

>>96738316
You're thinly veiling shitposting as criticism, faggot. There's no good or bad color to pick for a fucking bayonet blade unless you're an npc that only follows box art schemes.

>>96738339
>box art schemes
You haven't seen a necron box in awhile, have you?
Regardless, the barebones simple necron paintjob has been established through decades of trial and error by hundreds of thousands of painters.
I'm all for blazing trails and being creative but sometimes it's pointless and retarded. Wheels are round and no amount of stubbornness will make a square wheel a good idea. washing over a metallic is crap in most cases, this being one of them.

>>96738325
Ummm... what golden parts?

>>96738380

The shield bosses, the central round plate on the cuirasses and the nasal plate on the helmets. I'll have to repaint those parts to make them stand out as intended.

Hardware related question - is so called "floating nozzle" in airbrushes purely cosmetic/marketing stuff or it really improve painting processes somewhat?

>>96738448
Dunno if it helps with the spraying itself, but at least with cheap chinesium airbrushes it's very easy to destroy your nozzle through overtightening when you screw it in after cleaning. With a floating nozzle that risk is completely eliminated. (The nozzle cap still crews in of course, but should be a relatively sturdy part that's also large enough for you to screw in purely by hand, so that should be quite the challenge to break.)

>>96738417
they look like a matte non-metallic red/brown, they also look like you've handled them intensely and rubbed off a lot of that color to expose the grey primer/plastic beneath.

>>96738501

They are resin prints and sprayed with a metal primer. They did have two coats of drybrush, grey and later white.

>>96738519
Okay, but your red/brown does not have good coverage and you may have some degree of colorblindness if it's reading in any way as being even remotely close to gold.

>>96738519
>>96738541
Here, parts circled in green appear to have good coverage, parts in red do not, doesn't even look like your brush made contact with the whole piece in some.
But again, not gold. Could go for a copper, but it's matte as matte can be, not metallic.

>>96738564
Yeah, there's grey-white in there instead of solid reddish-brown or copper, because he dry-brushed it with great and white. And yes, the gold is very dark and copper-like. And he did say it needed highlights... There can be a connection there.
You're starting to sound very much like someone who has picked up a few terms and ideas from watching some youtube videos, but have fuck all experience actually painting shit and has thus ended up right on the peak of Mt. Dunning-Kruger.

>>96738611
>it needed highlights.
highlights won't make it metallic and drybrushing means it isn't going to be NMM.

>>96738143
looks cool but everyone was saying that what you did is actually impossible and none of the shadows or metal shine would be visible because miniatures are too small. how about you stop lying and admit how you painted the shades and highlights?

also I think it would have been cooler if instead of opaque green you had used one of those transparent crystal paints.

>>96738519
what company sells metallic primer?

>>96738688

I used army painters platemail metal primer.

>>96738656
>but everyone was saying that what you did is actually impossible and none of the shadows or metal shine would be visible because miniatures are too small
What in the Throne's name are you talking about? No one has said anything about my highlighting or lack thereof of the necron's body. I on the other hand never claimed that I haven't done any highlights or shading on it, on the contrary I said I had done a zenithal highlight and that I would apply a wash.
Now if you want to talk about whether highlighting metallics is a good idea or not then IMO what I produced there is a pretty good argument in favour of bothering with highlighting metals just as much as you'd highlight any other paint. I used some kinda special paint here (airbrush-only, gloss black undercoat required, lacquer thinner required and special fast-drying such recommended, very sensitive to whatever you put on top) to get the metallic sheen as good as it is, but even so it takes a close-up photo under good light to get what you see. And the metallic shine we do have is largely that of a 3cm-or-so tall metallic object, not a eight foot tall one.

>>96738818
you said yourself that the zenithal highlight did "nothing much" but the miniature has clearly delineated areas of light and dark, even on areas that wouldn't be affected much by a zenithal highlight or a wash like the back of his hand. this is clearly impossible as stated by everyone a couple threads ago. even in the second picture which you claim is before you even did the wash you can clearly see even tiny details like the teeth and fingers. this just isn't possible because the details are too small to cast real shadows or something, according to what everyone was saying. you had your laughs now it's time to come clean. what did you really do to paint those shades?

painted a rat today

another blackshield deathwatch
its pretty obvious where he came from huh
Need to make 4 more and Ill print and paint these fuckers

>>96739300
Cute ratto
>>96737859
My first thought was a dark red, so that's what I'll suggest. That's a lovely blue by the way, looks great so far.
>>96737198
I think you could still go a bit brighter towards the base of your flames but it's very nice already.
>>96737091
That reflection looks fantastic, impressive work.
>>96736015
Your yellow is a bit uneven, other than that it's very clean.
>>96734077
Spooky!

>>96736482
Nah you're fine atm, easy fix. The red on the stone has extended too far out, it should hit the to the edge, and then finish off with a drybrush of grey.
For the lava, you need some glazes of red, and then yellow. While the glaze of red is still wet, layer some dots of yellow and then white
This is a slow but simple process but your bases will look great

Any tips on painting iridescence?
I have a dragon and I'd like to paint him with white scales and sell a green/pink shimmer on them

>>96739807
Why not just use an iridescent paint?

>>96739807
Paint very, very thin glazes over the white scales? I feel like airbrush would help a lot here because you could just quickly apply a super thinned down paint as a filter.

>>96739807
you can use iridescent paint if you can find one with the colors you want, or you can buy green/pink color shift pearls that you can mix into a gloss clear and paint over your white.

I wanna paint up a small unit of Chatacans vehicles + terrain with some strong 'nam vibes, and that obviously requires some good ass jungle foliage kinda like picrel (which is diorama quality obviously, but the scale's not that far off)
Most brands seem to only sell simple grass powder and/or those awful awful grass tufts, and unfortunately 3D printing is out of the question. Any recs as to where I should start looking?

>>96740092
The budget-friendly way is either to get printed basing materials (there are all kinds, from foliage to ruins) from companies like GSW or AK. Fairly cheap, looks good, and can be bought in bulk. The budget-friendly DIY way that can give you surprisingly good results is to check plastic plants for aquariums and then paint it. There is a fuckload on Amazon, or from Chinks. The final result can be really neat, especially if you can airbrush it.

The expensive, but top quality approach is to get high tier quality prints from companies like RT-Diorama. It's very, very pricey, but you can't beat the quality.

>>96740092
Aside from mentioned aquarium fake plants, I had good results with fake vine/etc from cheap stores. Once found some "plastic grass ball" full of pieces that, once pulled out, would imitate jungle plants quite nice.

>>96740092
GW used aquarium plants in their codex catachan. They later sold aquarium plants themselves for lustria iirc.
The Terrain Tutor on youtube has a pretty nice series on building jungle terrain. It's his Burma project. A lot of practical ideas on how to strike a blance between getting the right look and keeping it playable.

>>96740026
https://www.guncandy.com/products/hydra
this isn't meant for models so I have no idea how it would work with something like tamiya x22 clear, but you can see the user review at the bottom how it looks on a white painted plastic base.

>>96740092
>Any recs as to where I should start looking?
Ebay. Just look for that stuff on ebay. Model trees, aquarium plants etc. It's made in china anyway and you can order it straight from them for cheaper than you can get it anywhere else.

>>96740156
>>96740120
>>96740136
>aquarium plants
>Terrain Tutor
Those are the names I needed to get started, thank you so much lads

>>96740179
Oh ye I'd been looking at Etsy mostly but I can see Ebay's full of chinkshit too now

>>96740199
If you have thrift stores nearby you can check them for very cheap plastic plants you can dissect.

Calling him done. Could go a little bit brighter with the flames but I'm honestly happy with where it's at. I'll just shoot to do better on the next flames that I paint.

>>96732175
Where'd you get the woman anon?

>>96740699
I’d hit the runes on that golden shoulder pad with a pin wash, otherwise looks good.

>>96732175
this is so fucking based. I can only imagine how uncomfortable you would make women and their orbiters if you played against them

I think I'm done.

>>96732146
This is genuinely amazing, can't wait to see them painted.
Where did you find the templates? Or is this all original?

>>96740901
sovl

>>96740727
its from brother vinni im pretty sure

>>96740901
What's the rent like? When can I move in?

>>96740699
If he's part of an army, yeah good and move on. If you want a bit more detail though, get something into the recesses of those runes. You could gloss varnish then put some oil into there if you want. Dark to make them stand out our a white one to paint over with light colours to make them look like they are glowing.

Might want to give some edges a highlight as well. Either way, hit that rock with a grey drybrush.

I started a dream project of mine since I saw this model at a Gamesday event as a kid. I havent had a week off in a few years so I decided to take out one of my holy grail projects. Years ago I picked up a yoy Emperor Chaos Dragon.

Day one is doing mostly pinning work, cleaning mold lines, and tomorrow I'll greenstuff repair the gaps. It's a lot of work so far. I'm going to follow the color scheme of the studio model. I thought about doing a variation color but the blue/red/white looks great.

>>96741228
>hey /wip/
Hey, anon.

>>96733439
I fundamentally agree with this and it's why despite owning an airbrush I've stuck to mostly priming via cans.

Acrylic primers via airbrush lack much of a tooth and especially on metal models I find are very prone to rub off. I no longer have the possibility of regularly using lacquer primers (Mr hobby primer was the best) with my airbrush and thus I resort to sneaking in spray paint at work and priming shit in the courthouse where I work.


Having said that, even models that were primed with acrylics colours are mostly fine, if handled and played with care.

>>96734459
ESL here.

Shouldn't it be "should have gone"?

>>96736015
Here’s the finished product. Excuse the lighting.

>>96741228
Holy shit anon, I've dreamed of that kit but I've not been able to find one in the wild. Where'd ypu snag it?

>>96739591
if I do a dark red talberd, what of the sword. stock gw is purple but is that too many colors?

>>96740757
>>96741114
Yeah, it'll be part of an army. With the rest of the chorfs going on pre order I'll have quite a bit coming my way to get through. So far this is what I've got.
I started the War Despot after the bull to knock out a character real quick, so I'll probably get him done and then do something with those runes. I probably won't do glowing runes because I want the purple to be noticeable (as of now there's more green than purple for my purple/gold scheme), though.

>>96732103
Making wine for the first time, would people be opposed to drinking a mystery liquid in a mason jar from an anon? I assume the people participating are usually older but i could be wrong about that too

>>96741460
>tricking anons into drinking his jenkum on christmas morning
devilish

>>96741474
Anon if you want jenkums, you gotta do that on your own. I aint messing with that shit, pun intended

>>96741460
ngl, I've gotten food from 4chan SSs before... I don't eat it. I trust the people in this thread enough, but not THAT much. If you do wanna send food I'd recommend it being something that's packaged and sealed and not home made cum brownies.

>>96736561
Update!

>>96737961
Well he just got a job for better or worse.

>>96741460
I am NOT drinking anything a fucking random internet schizo from this godforsaken site has made in his moldy basement. I already have one cancer and it's more than enough for me, thank you very much.

Anyone who sculpts there own stuff, any idea of how I might go about sculpting a crown? Specifically what I'd be looking to do is something similar to this, with thin spikes. It would be really fiddly to work with pieces that thin, but surely it must be doable.

>>96741660
Cut them out of plasticard. Sculpting them from putty is out of the question.

>>96741660
There are a couple of options. Working with another material like plastic card and gluing them down works. You can make the parts out of putty separately as well. That works if you have a push mold with extra detail if the spikes have sculpted detail for example or you need to fire the models during moldmaking. Using something like milliput also lets you cut and sand the parts for extra hard edges. Putting in wires and sculpting over that could work in theory, but is very fiddly. More sturdy than glue though.

>>96741666
I don't think I'd get the thin spikes I want from plasticard.
>>96741686
I thought milliput might probably be the way to go since it can hold sharper detail than green stuff and be filed properly. Might just end up being a trial and error thing when I get to it.

>>96741686
>Specifically what I'd be looking to do is something similar to this, with thin spikes
Forgot to mention that you could obviously also just cut the putty into sharper corners once it has cured. So in this instance I'd start with the headband. Then put the spikes on, leaving a little extra volume. Then you can cut the outside and the spikes sharp. If you start with a flat disk for the headband you can leave extra putty in the middle. Kind of like a triangle pyramid. Then you can fill in the middle of the cranium and fix it to the head below.

>>96741446
Please I beg you, drybrush that rock.

>>96732216
I'm not putting money, time, and effort into making a nice present for someone only to get a box full of hair and shit in exchange. I got fucked once, never again. Fuck off.

>>96741710
There are plastic rods of varying thickness sold, you can whittle down a segment to a sharp point, clip it off to get a spike of desired length, then repeat the process.

>>96741797
You never posted that box,didn't you?

>>96736832
Guess they should have paid their mortgage instead of 40k shit lmfao

>>96741811
>You never posted that box,didn't you?
Please kill yourself, you ESL retard. The proper sentence would be: "You never posted that box, did you?" Goddamn subhuman filth.

>>96741838
Still not posting the box I see

>>96741767
that's what basalt looks like

>>96741962
I don't have to prove shit to you. I just won't participate in your little circlejerk scam.

>>96742063
Basalt isn't smooth, shiny and soft like that. You need a very very light grey drybrush to lighten those edges. Right now it just looks like a lump of blutac you sprayed with paint.

>>96742093
what about this one?

>>96742111
That's obsidian.

>>96732366
>including bit giving good enough gift to make other person happy.
This eats me up every year until the recipient posts photos.

I also um and ah and hope I'm giving enough, and as a general rule I give more than I got the previous year. Which is going to be a huge box this year after the mountain of stuff anon sent me last year.

>>96732216
Many Australians? Is the random kiwi going this year? I think I owe him a gift.

What are your thoughts on Contrast? I wanted to paint Dark Angels using contrast because I like the final effect more than with normal layer paints but Contrast seems like a trap. I've been watching some tutorials and I'm concerned.

There are a lot of rules to using Contrast like not leaving the surface till you fill it out, don't touch it before it dries, move from corner to corner, don't stop on flat surfaces etc. etc.
Thing is... what do I do when I fuck up during edge highlighting? Because I 100% will. Paint it up again with Grey Seer and use 2 different Contrast Paints to get back to the main color but will it look different? Will it fuck up the finish? Will it be noticeable?
I'm worried here that I'm falling into a trap if I commit to Contrast. This Warhipster dude makes it look so easy and calming but he doesn't make mistakes. I don't want to be a slopper.

Should I just use normal layer paints and leave Contrast for effects?

>>96742088
Everyone who knows the galleries knows you are full of shit, and if there had been such a gift, you would have posted it the day you got it. But you didn't.

>>96742164
just don't edge highlight.

>>96742164
If you drybrush the mini in white or any other bright colour, you don't need to edge highlight. The entire point of contrast is that the light edges show through

>>96742164
>I'm worried here that I'm falling into a trap if I commit to Contrast
You definitely are. It's a tool for army painting or laying down a more dynamic base coat. If you just want to get an army done and ready for gaming, then go for it. But if you want to learn how to paint, don't start with contrast paints. But also don't start with WH40k painting tutorials. I hate that they started there. It's such a limiting skillset doing the standard 3 layers of varying tones of the same colour. Colours look so much more interesting when you use complimenting colours for shadows and highlights. Like instead of going dark brown, brown and cream. The shadow can be purple or something.

Like other anon said though, don't contrast onto a straight primed mini. You either zenithal or do basically greyscale drybrushing and then contrast onto it.

>>96742183
>>96742235
>>96742260
Alright thank you for the advice. I thought I'd just follow one of Warhipsters tutorials and be done with it. Glad I asked. I'll do the normal scheme but different for my dudes because fuck you Contrast.
>already bought 2 cans of grey seer and all required contrast paints
I have only myself to blame. Still they won't be completely useless I guess... I hope...

>>96741460
For everyone's safety, we just send store bought goods, eat homemade stuff at your own risk. Also, I imagined your post office will have issues about sending alcohol.

>>96742426
I mean you own them now, so may as well learn to use them. The only thing that stops me using them is buying them. They aren't inherently bad, just a tricky place to start because they are sort of shortcut, so you're skipping skillsets you'll need to improve.

>>96742451
I'll save them for the potential Ork update in 11th Edition of 40k. I'll use normal paints for now.
Or I'll get pic related when it releases and try to use it on them or some other Kill Team. Not the main army.

>>96742164
>Thing is... what do I do when I fuck up during edge highlighting?
at that point you are completely fucked. i know because i recently painted a few primaris up as imperial fists using the gw contrast and it turned out great. i had a really nice looking yellow very easily and i used skeleton horde for some shading to improve things and my armour base coat was looking pretty good for almost zero effort. but because i am a sloppy retard i spilled my black shoulder trim onto the yellow armour panels and tried to touch it up with regular paint and even though i tried mixing it to match the contrast armour panels but it just didn't work out well, i could not match the colour. i ended up covering most of my crimes with extensive weathering but if you're going for a clean look on space marines this will be a problem for you because you will need to start over with your primer colour and redo your contrast layer.

contrast is 100% a trap for new painters, especially if you're painting muhreens because muhreens specifically need some sort of highlighting in order to look good and they have all their accessories and armour trim right next to those armour panels. ironically you need to be a fairly proficient painter with good brush control if you want to use contrast as your base coat.

>>96742467
Yeah, thank you anon. It's weird how no one ever says anything about how to cover up contrast mistakes. Only when you use too much of it but never when you spill other paint on it.

I fucked up with the spray (I'll never use white spray again), tried to strip it and it won't come off. How much more fucked will I be if I give up and just spray black on top of this mess?

>>96742493
What stripper are you using?

>>96742462
Man you have a lot of spare money to throw around.

>>96742493
IPA for a few days, toothbrush, back to IPA for a few days, toothbrush, repeat.

>>96742506
your mother

>>96742426
They absolutely are not useless and you absolutely should paint one miniature with it, and if it's only to see the difference between it and your regular painted stuff. Contrast is a tool, and it can be useful. But to use it well, you need to try it first.

>>96742506
simple green

>>96742493
How long did you leave it in?

>>96742547
Didn't it change the formulation a couple of years ago?

>>96742634
couple days

>>96736410
What model is this?

>>96742547
Found the problem. Order some isopropyl and clean that shit up

>>96742508
Buying a Kill Team and planning to buy a 11th Edition Launch Set in half a year is not a lot of money.

>>96742715
One of minis from Wayfarer set from Eldfall Chronicles, KS backed (but sold normally) skirmish game. All Unicool.

>>96742508
Once you get a decent job, you will be able to buy some random stuff for 60-100 per month too.

>>96741413
casted by SPTKS from years ago.

Lots of double pinning for these joints. The cast quality is a solid XXX/5. Tons of work with greenstuff ahead today

>>96742964
what are you doing with the integrated bases on the feet?

>>96741431
I feel that'd be too many colors. I'd do it in the color of the tabard or yellow. Unless you pick something more neutral for the tabard like a much darker shade of your armor color. Purple would work then, I think.

>>96741767
Fear not, I plan to do it after work. I actually forgot about that step.
"I mean, how often do you really look at a model's base?"

>>96742177
He's shitposting. Why would you be so desperate to try and scare people away from a fun little community event is beyond me but I guess this place is full of bitter fucks

>>96743362
>shitposting
looks more like he was (allegedly) shitposted

>>96741446
>>96742063
>>96742111
nta, you should just throw a little gloss varnish on that rock to make it nice and shiny, give it an obsidian glass finish.
it's make the other anon mad.

>>96742164
Personally I wouldn't be so quick disregarding contrast paints like the other anons replying to you.

Warhipster uses contrast paints very carefully and more like a pre thinned normal coat of paint rather than taking advantage of the typical (and somewhat ugly) contrast stained effect.

If you want your models to look like his, then by all means get them and follow the way he paints, but keep in mind he doesn't just slap a liter of contrast on and calls it a day, he follows the standard eavy metal procedure for the most part with its pros and cons.

When will we get our SS assignment?

Hope you enjoy this lil kitbash

>>96744088
1st week of November

>>96744078
I used black templar for the body suit and space wolf on the gun for my warp spiders and you know, I think they came out just fine.

i then tried imperial fist yellow on fire dragons and frankly it was a disaster that required lots of cover up

>>96744078
>Warhipster
The way he applies contrasts takes a decent amount of practice and control to achieve a smooth finish. Plus even he doesn't get a perfect result all the time, zoom in on his minis sometime. At that point you might as well do a basecoat+wash and save contrasts/speedpaints for easy blending or some other effects.

Most fun killteam to paint in your opinions?

>>96745096
orks probably

>>96745096
Kinda depends on what you like painting, no? I only painted Hierotek Circle so far and it was a lot of fun.

ss question.
If Im reading the form right, if Im Eu based and mark no international I can still be paired with anybody inside EU. marking international is going to pair with us/Australia /Japan etc?

>>96745290
Yes, I believe there's even a note that says Europe counts as one "country"

>>96745309
I am reading my msg again and I wasnt clear enough I believe I am more concerned whether marking international shipping being EU based guarantees pairing with somebody outside of europe.

I was paired with Aussie some years ago and postage was like 60usd and only if I kept it below 1.5kg, it was very limiting

>>96745309
Well yeah the "national" borders inside the EU don't really count for much as being inside the Schengen area means you can live and work inside any of them with citizenship to just one of them, so if you disregard legalese bullshit the European Union is one nation and the individual political zones that make it up are more akin to states than nations.

Was this kind of green, with all the tonal variations, done with an airbrush? Is it really hard to be able to pull off that kind of varied gradients all over it? Hope I'm wording this question right.

>>96745421
I think you got a bit too far here. Tons of laws, requirements, documents, etc are not shared, only part of countries use single currency and not all accept Euro, even your job/etc certificates might be rejected by some countries (I heard stories about, for example, French universities insisting on only accepting certificates made in France). United States of Europe would be powerful entity indeed but it's pretty much science fiction that will never become reality.

>>96745441
>Was this kind of green, with all the tonal variations, done with an airbrush
Yes.
>Is it really hard to be able to pull off that kind of varied gradients all over it?
It's not when you know how to airbrush. But it's one of those things that you simply have to train, and it usually takes a bit before you master it to this level. It's also something you need at least semi-decent airbrush to pull off.

>>96745459
Thanks anon. Would you do the lighter base color first, then airbrush on the darker shadow spots after? and then maybe some light spots here and there at the very end?

Or would you start with the darkest color and work up?

>>96745474
I would say both is viable. Though as it usually goes, it's generally easier to do a basecoat, then gradually build your highlight layers (simpler to add color, rather than fix shadows that airbrush tends to kill fast), then preshade, and then start to layer your weathering with enamels/oils.

>>96745441
An airbrush will help with the smooth transitions between the different tones, but oils are another way, and some pull it off by just being real good with brush and acrylics.
Also worth noting is that the variety in the green there is also caused by the painter having gone hard on just variety. We don't just see variation between lighter and darker tones, but also between a more yellowish green and a more bluish green. Maybe even with the former being less saturated and the latter more, to vary the green in just about every way possible. And then the banner does most of that, but with a different green hue. And then there's all the other colours used... So an airbrush alone won't give you all of this variety, it simply makes it a bit easier to execute (once you've gotten sued to using it).

>>96745514
>bit easier
a LOT easier. And faster.

>>96745523
This. I paint a lot of German historical scales, and the camo with a brush is essentially impossible to get right outside of mid to late war tanks that had camo slopped on by crews IRL.

Airbrush is its own tool for its own job, use it as such

>>96745457
Same thing goes between canadian provinces and between american states, hunting permits for one don't work for the others, vehicle inspections need to be redone if you move from one to another, your drivers license will allow you to drive between them all but if you move you need to get a new license, insurance coverage is the same, etc...

>>96745514
>>96745511
thanks anons. I can see the blues and a sort of flesh/khaki color added to that really nice green.

my airbrush is the old version of the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Solo which I hope is able to do those fine and small transitions with some practice

>>96745588
Evolution should be definitely up to the task.

>>96745309
>>96745290
>>96745343
Selecting "yes" for international does not mean you necessarily get someone from Australia, but obviously it can happen. I explicitly wrote that shipping can be expensive as fuck, because it just is.. If Australia or Japan is too much, please select "no", just to be save.

>>96745421
There is this, and also, if i would sort by EU countries, there would be 2 guys from the Netherlands, 2 Germans, 3 from Poland, one Anon from Croatia etc... and half of them wants to ship only within their own country? Its absolutely not practical to get matches.
We ran into this problem last year with the Australians, there is simply not enough for them to match new people with each other, and its basically always the same 3 or 4 guys every year.

When buying paints, should I look to buy basic colors to blend along with metallics or basic colors along with metallics and specific colors that I want to use?

Some of you may recall I posted this conversion a little while ago. I thought it was a cool idea but it was just missing something. Didn't feel finished, and the heads were out of scale as much as I'd have liked them to have worked they didn't. So I decided to take it in a slightly different direction.

I ended up going with a kind of standard bearer sort of look. He's supposed to be like a royal herald, the standard itself is just a clipped down piece of brass rod like with the others. I clipped a part a part off of a Roman standard for the little rectangle thing. It used to have a boar on top of it but I snipped it using a tool I will shill in the next post. The skull is from one of the halfling standards I converted. Then the Fleur de Lys comes from a greenstuff world thing. They come with like 400 little photo etched brass symbols of different sizes. They have a lot of stuff that would work for whf and 40k. Templar crosses, Roman numerals, English lions, and a few others I can't recall right now.

All of the other plastic here is from various Warhammer kits. Turns out that Dorf pauldrons are the perfect size to be a halfling breastplate. Who would have thought? The sword and feather are empire something or other and the little crest shield I believe comes from the hippogryph knight kits.

I think it's got some potential

Also, to add to this >>96745827 is a wet palette necessary or good to have? Sorry, I'm a noob who hasn't painted shit

>>96745889
It's not necessary but it makes painting so much more comfortable I honestly can't imagine painting without one at this point.

>>96745827
Always good to have a nice "off" white and black for mixing. What painting line are you considering? Citadel paints have a tendency to dry up and considering their price you should only get the colors you are actively looking to use.

>>96745889
You'll waste significantly less paint with a wet palette. Just be careful of overhydration.

>watching tv
>keep staring at my display case
>really want to paint
>go to painting room
>don't want to work on any of my half finished projects
>don't want to start a new project when I have so many half finished projects
>don't end up painting
>watching tv
>keep staring at my display case
>really want to paint
the cycle continues

>>96745933
Just pick a random thing, sit down and put some paint on a model. It works for me, as long as I actually start I instantly get into it.

>>96745899
>>96745913
Ty
>>96745911
I'm looking at AP fanatic. Rather than a bundle, I think I'll go roygbiv, black, white, leather brown and then either gun metal or plate metallic and maybe a flesh tone. Not sure if this is overkill or if I should drop some of the roygbiv ones and pick up some that I would use without mixing

>>96745933
>>watching tv
Why the fuck would you do that to yourself.

This is the tool I referenced in my post about the conversion. They're precision sidecutters. I can't recall what I paid for them, but they were sold under the flex-i-file brand. It's a Canadian abrasive tools company, mostly. They sell other hobby tools as well though. Mostly cutting tools. As you can see this was made in pawkistawn so you can probably find it being sold under a number of brand names. I bought them for precision cutting resin pieces but they work well on hard plastic too.

So what makes these different from other side cutters? The precision is one thing. These cut down to about the profile of a human hair. The other advantage is the cutting angle and profile itself. Rather than coming in at a 45 degree angle like conventional side cutters you come in perpendicular, at like a 90 degree square angle. So you can ride it right up against a flat surface and basically scrape details off of it. You can get into places where other sidecutters can't. I wouldn't use it for really thick pieces though, because of how fine the cutting edge is. That's about the only drawback. Also that you have to put quite a bit more force down to clear a cut on hard plastic because of the nature of the design. You won't be replacing your sidecutters totally. But, it has come in handy in a lot of scenarios. Especially if you want to remove a raised detail off a small part. Think like the cross on the crest on that conversion I just posted with the standard.

Anyways, if you're a tool guy and that sounds like it would be helpful for you I'd recommend them. I use them all the time for cutting from sprues or other cuts that would be awkward with normal side cutters.

Have a good one and a happy Thanksgiving weekend to my fellow leafs

>>96746019
Not broadcast TV, fuck that noise, it's a show I have downloaded. Finally decided to watch the Sopranos after sleeping on it for decades.

>>96745955
Yeah I need to just rip the bandaid off and force it.

>>96746063
>Finally decided to watch the Sopranos after sleeping on it for decades.
In that case, you are very much forgiven.

I'm still trying to improve my speed, so I did another 5 man group of immortals.

These ones took about 4-ish hours, so a solid improvement over the last group that took 6.

>>96746174
>I'm still trying to improve my speed, so I did another 5 man group of immortals.

>These ones took about 4-ish hours, so a solid improvement over the last group that took 6.

Of course I forgot the image...

A lot of the time saving came with the guns. I did them a different way and they turned out better, too, so that's great.

>>96746075
the first like, 5ish episode are okay, after that it becomes a pile of wet shit just like everything else.

>>96746214
t. contrarian brainrot
Have a pity (you).

Painting up some 30k Emperor's Children, decided to try something new and sprayed luxion purple contrast over a metallic basecoat. How's it look anons?

>>96746244
No, objective fact. ight about the time the show starts revolving around the MC's fat ugly sister is when it becomes utter dogshit.
Many such cases, lots of shows that start out with promise but get turned into daytime drama slop within the first season, supernatural, dexter, the fringe, sopranos, etc... the vast majority of high budget HBO shit falls into the category.
If you're going to jerk yourself off over that kind of shit just own it and watch Days of Our Lives.

>>96746255
I like it

>>96746255
Good!

So I experimented with this a while ago and found that you can get a pretty neat results by essentially doing slapchop with metallics, so work your way up from a dark or black metallic color to silver via drybrushing, then spraying the contrast purple over it. Gives you instant shading and highlights all in your metallic purple.

finished another skelly

>>96746472
oh whoops I didn't glue the tuft correctly

>>96746505
Now you did :^)

>>96746525
thanks man

>>96746022
are they better than the god hand nippers my gundam anime shilled?

>try out mr hobby surfacer 1500 because e-celebs say it's a good primer
>shoot it through airbrush
>super smooth coats, easy to apply
>incredible adhesion, can barely scrape the stuff of with my nail even when trying
>coat is practically glass or ceramic tile smooth
>very happy with the primer, go to paint
>mini VIOLENTLY rejects paint
>surface is too smooth
>there's no texture for the paint to grab onto
>unless the paint is completely unthinned it just runs and bunches up
>every single paint I have does this, the mini is completely unpaintable
This shit is not a primer, and I question the integrity of anybody who shilled it. It is a very interesting product, the surface it creates is unbelievably smooth and it sticks to plastic like nobody's business, but the whole point of a primer is to make it easy to paint over it and this does the exact opposite of that. I suppose if you only ever used airbrush basecoats you wouldn't notice because airbrushed microdroplets aren't going to run unless you flood the surface, but seriously how the fuck do you make a product shilling video and not try actually putting paint on the model with a brush?

>>96746869
Not sure what you're doing wrong because I never had this issue lol

>>96746869
why wouldn't you spray your base color on top of it if you already have the airbrush out to put the primer on?

>>96746869
It's great if you're going to be airbrushing the actual base coats on afterwards. For priming to paint with brush and acrylics though you probably want something more like a mr. surfacer 1200 or 1000, the 1500 is too smooth.

>>96746902
I've never had any trouble brushing AK/Citadel/TTC on 1500. Anon must be doing something wrong.

>>96746869
>>shilshillshillshill
His latest consumerist endeavours having failed to produce the instant Nirvana dreamed of, the adolescent male resorts to crying out with noises long stripped of any meaning but to be an identifier of group belonging, hoping to be answered in kind so his wounded soul can be wrapped in the soothing embrace of Belonging that he so desperately needs.
Also you can try to thin the Mr Surfacer a bit less, that can help keep it a bit less glassy. And don't try mixing in the paint cup of the airbrush if you did, for some reason that always gives me issues with Mr Surfacer (despite otherwise usually working out just fine). Though do keep in mind that this is a product aimed at the scale model side of things, where airbrush use is basically taken for granted.

>>96746909
There are a lot of things that can impact it. The exact thinner used, how much thinner, spraying technique, the climate the paint dries in, which paints are then put on top...
I've noticed a bit of this "glassy" tendency at time,s it seems to correlate to the primer having gone on relatively thin and wet.

>>96746892
It's an alcohol based product, you need to do a full clean to get the alcohol solvent out of the airbrush before switching to water based paints. You really don't want that shit mixing, who the hell knows how that's going to spray. So it's not really "having the airbrush out", you'd have to re-dirty it again to start shooting acrylics through it.

Going straight to an airbrushed basecoat is often a good idea, but not always the way to do it, and not what I did here. Some paints you just don't shoot through the airbrush, metals, contrasts, etc. A primer is a general purpose tool, it should work for any paint you're going to use, there shouldn't be a difference in how it performs.

>>96746994
I thinned it 1:2 with the Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner, and applied it in thin dusty coats being careful not to flood the surface. On top of it I ended up trying every brand of paint I have -- Vallejo, ProAcryl, TTC, Scale75, and Liquitex, all of them had the same issue unless the paint was kept so thick it couldn't possibly run. Straight out of the pot Scale75 was fine, but obviously that's not how you're supposed to use that paint. Straight out of the pot TTC was a shitshow.

>>96746962
Mostly I'm just disappointed in myself for not realizing this wasn't a primer in the first place. It's not advertised as a primer. It's not labeled as a primer. And primers are matte, or at worst satin, not gloss. The whole point of a primer is to provide a surface for the paint to adhere to, and gloss surfaces do a shit job of that.

I'm sure there's some way to make the surface slightly less glossy so it is only a bad "primer" instead of being an absolutely shit primer, but ultimately it's not a primer and was never intended to be used as one. A good primer has a matte surface. Today I learned something.

Does someone have the stahly paint swatch thing?

I don't understand tamiya paints?
They're acrylic....
but use a fancy solvent and need special chemical thinners?
What are they?

>>96747088
>It's not advertised as a primer. It's not labeled as a primer
It's listed under primer on almost every online hobby store I've ever come across. I thin it 1:1 with leveling thinner and as I've said before, never had a single issue with it. It never dried glossy either, more like slightly satin. I have no idea what the fuck went wrong with yours but something definitely did.

>>96746184
Are you speed painting for a specific purpose?

>>96747088
you shouldn't have to clean it any more than going from one paint to another and you can absolutely spray metallics and contrast paints. stop listening to people trying to make you scared of using your airbrush.

>>96747195
>you shouldn't have to clean it any more than going from one paint to another
No, you do actually need to clean it more. It's a different solvent. It's fine for some leftover solvent to stay in the airbrush between color changes because both paints use the same solvent, but when you're changing solvents you need that thing completely dry to avoid unexpected results when two materials that were never supposed to be mixed end up mixing.

Imma be real, I don’t think I can dot her pupils without getting black paint smears on her collar armour thing

>>96747209
you're being paranoid. do you think there's solvent gremlins hiding inside your air brush? alcohol is already fast evaporating so what do you think happens when you're blasting air over it? you're also worrying way too much about mixing solvents. I'm pretty sure you can even thin water based paint with lacquer thinner if you wanted to. even if you're worried about how it will effect your model you can just spray a little bit at your air filter before you start and anything that was "contaminated" will be gone.

>>96747227
mask it off

Ok, whoever told me to use isopropyl alcohol instead of Simple Green, thank you so much. I'm seeing the paint getting stripped almost instantly

>>96747244
>I'm pretty sure you can even thin water based paint with lacquer thinner if you wanted to.
You are incredibly wrong here. Go try it yourself if you don't believe me. It's like water and oil, it's a fucking nightmare.

>>96747088
did you shake it VERY well? the 'dust' that makes the '1500' decants quite fast and thats what gives it the filling properties and texture

>>96747254
Feel kinda dumb for not thinking of this
Thanks

>>96747269
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgzWJmK65Js
some people even thin acrylic paint with windex. even if it probably isn't the best option it's not going to destroy your airbrush or whatever you're imagining.

>>96747227
Nah, I think you can do it.

>>96747227
try one of these. Makes eyes much of a pain in the rear.

>>96747327
Windex is not lacquer thinner. Windex is water with soap. Soap is a surfactant. You can buy surfactant additives for paint because surfactants can actually change how paint behaves in ways that can be beneficial, and you'll pay through the nose for specially branded water with some soap in it. Surfactants reduce the friction between liquids and solids, and once you learn that you can understand why Windex might make a suitable airbrush thinner.

It's a completely different product, and most importantly the solvent in question for Windex is still water so of course it'll be compatible with water based paints.

>>96747370
>paint with a marker
battletech faggot?

>>96747370
Doesn't varnish wash it off?

>>96747400
Paul Sawyer did it in Path to Glory. It's an old school hobby trick.

>>96747401
No. You have to give it some time to dry completely though. If you touch it with varnish before ~40 minutes it can smear. After 4 hours it will not move at all anymore.

>>96747375
windex also has alcohol and ammonia in it

>>96747429
And? It's still 99% water. Lacquer thinner literally has no water in it. It's all alcohol.

>>96747404
Just checking, there's a fag in btg that posts nudes who also only "paints" using paint markers and is under the delusional that the splotchy no-highlights result is a good thing.

>>96747227
Why would you attach the head before painting it?

>>96747478
I mean... BattleTech attracts some hardcore autists, but that is something else.

>>96747440
lacquer thinner is mostly acetone with some xylene and toluene. tamiya has alcohol based acrylic paint. just because something has one kind of solvent in the bottle doesn't mean that's the only thing you can use or that using a different solvent will make it explode, especially when you're only talking about a minuscule amount left in your airbrush.

>>96747494
You're the only retard saying it's going to explode. The issue is not and has never been stated that it will damage the airbrush, the issue is that they don't mix and they're going to shoot unevenly and unpredictably. I'm not putting my airbrush on a model knowing that at any moment it could hit a bubble of unmixed lacquer thinner that I left in there because I was lazy and didn't properly clean it and the airbrush sputters and splats paint all over the model and now I need to strip the whole thing and start over.

I'm not risking that. I'm just not going to be lazy and properly clean the airbrush when switching between completely different solvents. You can be lazy all you want, it's your time you're risking in the end.

>>96747519
you're being completely paranoid. first it's not going to fucking bubble like baking soda and vinegar. you can literally thin acrylic paint with mr thinner. second this isn't even an issue because any thinner that you had in the airbrush is going to get blown out of it the second you push the button. again stop listening to people trying to make you fear your tools.

Even if the thinner did react poorly(it doesn't) you could remove it with a quick squirt of water and blowing out the water with the airbrush.

>>96747490
Just a reddit tier invader who comes to 4chan and posts nudes because the "evil nazis" can't be allowed any online refuge that is free from fags.

>>96747867
I'm pretty happy this thread is relatively free of schizos and avatarfags(beyond what's needed to engage with the thread obviously).

>>96747867
You need to go back

>>96742977

I'm going to use a lot of Apoxie Sculpt on the base to add weight and sculpt out the elevation. It's like a super heavy clay that I used on scenic bases like this KoW unit pictured here. I'm going with a similar style of rocks/branches with white rocks and green tufts

>>96747898
Nah, sounds like I'm right on target.

>>96747478
Scroling through /btg/ and I hardly saw any minis at all.

guys should I still zenithal hightlight even though Im going to cover the mini in silver to use as a base to then paint over with speed paint?

>>96747961
How long did it take you to paint those golems? There's a transition on every panel.

>>96748100
I was thinking about this too and what if instead of white and black you did gloss black at the top and flat black at the bottom?

>>96748017
The actual nazi must be on hiatus then, most other minis posted there are old shit reposted.

>>96748120
I spent weeks on them since I was unhappy. I tried blue first and didn't like it so I went to that jade teal look. These are part of the same army. Northern alliance for KOW. I'll post photos of the dragon when it's build. Tomorrow is a lot of green stuff work ahead.

>>96748100
You could just get a silver spraypaint (or two shades of metallic brightness) at that point I gues.
White under metallics usually makes them look less shiny, so for maximum sheen you definitely want black. But if you want some shading you can still use different colors like I said.

Boner update.

>>96748379
Nicely done, but I will say that the shading on the bones makes them blend in with the gold at parts, especially the three hanging bones and the ones near the belt buckle. I feel like the bone should be a brighter white, more ivory than brown, to help separate it from the gold.

>>96748399
I get what you mean, it does look more contrasting in person though. Not only it looks a bit whiter but the matte/metallic contrast comes in.

>>96748268
Very nice. Yeah I figured that must have taken a long time.

>>96748437
This is going to sound dumb but stay with me. I plan on painting everything glued together except the two heads (I'll work on them on the side). I'm going to pin in the wings and paint this in one go. The idea behind this is that the recast has a number of offputting gaps. I double pinned most of the joints so this will be durable - but still prone to break if I take it to a FLGS.

There is greenstuff work to do all over him. This is why I don't want to paint the wings separately and then have to re-pin them on and greenstuff correct the edges. If I stick with an airbrush I should be able to handle the wings fine while they are attached. I'm planning on placing heavy rocks underneath the legs to support the weight. I want to be working on the base by tomorrow night and the greenstuff should be dry by Wednesday morning.

Should i buy this kind of painting handle? It's like 8 bucks

>>96749015
no you should buy a bench vise

>>96746869
Never have any issue with this, and the finish is satin, not gloss

>>96747088
>Some paints you just don't shoot through the airbrush, metals, contrasts
Nigga what?

Bumping this q >>96745966

>>96749029
idk man, it look not very hobbyish to me

Started to base coat the metals. Fine with the steel, but I might change the weapons (sword/mace anyway) to be a gold/bronze color, I'm not digging how much copper there is - though it might look better when it's shaded/highlighted, idk yet.

>>96749053
a 3rd hand is a 3rd hand. if your dick is too small for that badass fireball tool one you can get a jewler's vise or one of these tiny ones. the point is that when you're trying to do precision work you don't want to be using your hand as work holding.

>>96749197
forgot picture

>>96745838
>>96745882
Very cool.

The scale of the heads really sells it as a hobbit/halfling character. I feel like they would have worked but the standard bearer look is much better.

>>96747478
>there's a fag in btg that posts nudes
Is he cute?

>>96745966
>AP fanatic
ak is a good choice too

>either gun metal or plate metallic
get two silver metallics, a gunmetalish one and a bright silver for highlights, you can shade metal with regular washes but you cany really mix white to highlight it

>white
get an offwhite for mixing colors for highlights, like ice yellow, ivory or the like, usually you don't want to mix in pure white because it desaturates too much your highlights

also get at least a black wash, and maybe a dark brown one too

to your original question start with the colors you need or whatever you are going to paint first, and go from there, a few browns are also good since almost everything has leather or wood, its also a good color to basecoat your reds
you don't really mix nonmetallic paints onto metallic because you lose the 'metallic' concentration

>>96746869
never had any issues like this, the 1500 in the name is the grit equivalent it aims for in the finish. Mine is normally quite matt and has a very fine grit. Only time I got a glossy/satin finish is when I flooded the model so maybe try lighter applications

>>96747480
Im dumb, im getting some masking putty or tape on my way home from work

My second attempt at doing a "power" sword where it lights up at the base but transitions to metal at the tip. Pretty happy with this result, my other one didn't have nearly enough shine.

>>96749814
Thanks king. I'll look at the differences between AP's strong and dark tone washes

>>96750857
>>96750857
>>96750857
Standing in for the usual baker because we are on page 10

>>96749289
You'd look pretty cute hanging from a tree on the end of a noose.

>>96751797
>imagine being a retarded edgelord
>imagine being a retarded edgelord on /tg/
>imagine being a retarded edgelord on /tg/ in /wip/
Are you like sixteen?

Shook-ass homo detected

>>96742164
I’d say if you mess up with edge highlights you should just use the equivalent Base paint to clean it up. Contrast paints are for quick coverage the way you’re trying to use them, so it might be better to follow it up with a coat of Base paint to even out the flat areas anyway.

>>96752130
Says the bulge-painting retard. Go back, craftsperg.