Thread 96750857

Work in Progress, Taco Tuesday Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>96732099
>>96714857
>>96689200
>>96666221

I'm going to spend a few hours cleaning this guy up. A lot of smoothing stretched flesh chaos greenstuff

Anyone have any experience sculpting extremely small details? I have a KDM mini with a miscast nose (tip of the nose is missing) that I want to fix cause I'm not digging the snake/voldemort look

>>96751046
Try your best with greenstuff (or whatever else) but remember you can fix a lot of tiny details with paint. You can flub the geometry's look a bit if you need to if the sculpting isn't perfect, so long as you have the overall shape kinda right.

Simple quick paint up for fun

how the FUCK do I stop doomscrolling and start painting 30+ miniatures a month?

>>96751088
with THIS simple trick!

Airbrushing water based paints sucks
I wish EU didn't have that stupid VOC ban

Looking for a little advice with this daemon engine I threw together
I feel like the shoulder/shoulderblade area needs bulking out in some way to make the silhouette look right but I just dont know what would work or how to go about it

>>96751088
do the "paint after work/before sleep for 30-45 mins and do one step" thing. Don't play video games every night. Mix it up - it's mostly good habits. Suddenly you're painting 5-10 hours a week and have a few late nights.

>>96750788
dark tone is black
strong tone is brown

Bit of terrain I'm working on.

>>96751149
The lone and level sands stretch far away...

>>96751117
I think my biggest issue is lack of space, I don't have a dedicated painting setup so every time I want to paint it's 30 minutes of setting up a space, getting all my gear together, etc first

>>96751027
Did you make this from scratch?
>>96751082
neat

>>96750857 (OP)
Finally done with this Chaplain, right on time for the spooky month.
Added a sword to turn him into that new black templar chaplain variant that I cba to buy at the moment.

>>96751126
Forgive me for not googling, but why would I choose one over the other? Does dark/black give shading/shadow/depth and strong/brown give a more dirty, realistic look?

>>96751098
It sucks, but you can still learn to make it work.

>>96751108
The arm with the melta thingy definitely needs to be bulked up, the shoulder plate just looks out of place. The easiest way would be a different bit because that one is super narrow. Do you have the hind leg shoulder plate from the Fiend kit?
I think you could leave the claw side alone because it looks like an arm and you would get some cool asymmetry like a crab

>>96751392
For miniatures yeah, but I also like mecha stuff and that's just impossible

Thought I would show a practical comparison between normal sidecutters and the "nail clipper" style that I posted about in the last thread. I forgot to mention how the cutting mechanism is fundamentally different. Sidecutters have a shearing effect, they are similar to scissors in that their cutting action is not done with two blades that are parallel for the entire cut. Imagine how scissors close down and cut paper. While conventional sidecutters aren't exactly the same, the same principle applies.

The nail clipper style provides an evenly distributed cut, there is no angle between the two blades it is perfectly parallel for the entirety of the cut. Think of how a snapping turtles jaws shut.

Here is an example. On the left you have the boar attached to the standard head, on the right a steed.

The boar was cut off with the nail clipper style precision cutters, and the steed with the conventional sidecutters.

You can see the precision cutters are more suited to detailed cuts and small pieces. That's what makes it great for conversions, cutting delicate pieces etc. note the string of plastic left between the boars feet. I wasn't exaggerating when I said these things cut down to the precision of a human hair.

Another quick tip for a tool some might find in handy: brass/steel spears. They work great for creating a pilot hole for drilling gun barrels. I used my hobby knife blade tip, and id center it and create the pilot hole that way. Had more than my fair share of close calls doing that. It goes against everything practical with regards to safety using razor sharp tools.

The other day I had one of my brass spears sitting there and was going to drill a barrel and I gave it a shot to see if I could use them instead of the hobby knife blade to create a pilot hole. It worked very well. Made a few handled ones with balsa wood and glue. One perpendicular like a corkscrew, and the other vertical, like a pen. Would recommend for those who drill barrels a lot.

>>96751389
black is usually the default choice for everything, brown can give you more rusty looks on metal for example, warmer shadows, you can use it for wood, leather, rocks etc

some colors may not look good with a black wash, think a face, a light (diluted) brown wash will give it depth but a black one would desature the skin color too much and you might not want that

get both, experiment, down the road you might find you also want other colors, or decide that you can make do by mixing other paints with a bit of water and flow improver

>>96751384
no, it's a recast of a forgeworld model from 2000

>>96751149
keep it up

>>96751098
You think Mr Paint is water based? Alclad2? Tamiya and Gunze's lacquer lines? You think there's nothing resembling a VOC in lacquer thinner? Plastic cement? Printer resin?
I mean, your brain has clearly had more than enough of perky organic compounds already, but still. If you think you can't get stuff that isn't water based in the EU then you obviously haven't looked past FLGS, if that.

>>96751088
By setting realistic goals.

30 minis a month is a stupid goal unless your work is slop.

Aim for two a week. That gives you 3 paint sessions per mini and one day to masturbate to your loli waifu.

>>96751310

Nigger I move all my shit to my kitchen table and it takes 5 minutes to get set up.

Water jar, wet palette, lamp, vortex mixer, bring a box of paint or three down.

Stop scrolling while you do it and you can get it done much faster.

>>96751427
Yeah bulking that shoulder up would probably help
Sadly I don't have the fiend bits, I just picked up some spares from ebay but I''m sure I can find something

>>96752103
Forgot to say thank you too

>>96751466
>It goes against everything practical with regards to safety using razor sharp tools.
buy a vise. how can you call yourself a man without a bench vise?

>>96751097
Words of Wisdom

Repost from last thread, didn't realize we were already on page 10. Hoping to get a bit more of him done tonight.
Should I stick with green gems or mix in some blue or red ones in his beard to spice things up a bit?

>>96751583
>You think Mr Paint is water based? Alclad2? Tamiya and Gunze's lacquer lines?
Those are mostly military colors so if you need anything more vibrant you're kinda SOL, in Asia those are covered by Gaianotes (anime figs) and Finishers (car colors) but those are illegal in the EU due to toluene contents (hence the VOC ban part)

>>96751466
Insightful. Thanks!

>>96752135
>Should I stick with green gems or mix in some blue or red
Stick with green. Full rainbow on a single mini rarely looks good.

Here's a snek I finished up, just need to do the basing when the varnish is dry.
Do you all think that dark green grass tufts would work for swamp grass?

A frog princess in progress, not sure if I should change the orange feathers to a different color

>>96752622
Is this a mini I can buy?
Also she has corin vibes.

>>96752103
You got this anon, keep being creative

>>96752630
I dont think so but twingoddessminiatures has lots of gobbos including a maid i think
This was meant for the goblin thread, I'm sorry

>>96752651
nta but she's cute so it's fine

>>96751310
You dont have a desk?

>>96751310
I dont either. I have an art cart and a few draws of art supplies. I break out a work area each time I work on a project.

Im trying to learn a bit more about airbrush usage but I honestly don't understand how I'm supposed to build shades layers with it. I keep failing to reach sufficient visible contrast. Here I used "Archaic Turquoise" first, then "Aquatic Turquoise" and finally "Snow Blue" but it barely shows and paint gets into deeper areas even when I keep airbrush at high angle. Sure, it covers quickly but I feel like I have barely any control at all. With brush, these three colours would be starkly different to each other.

Plus, it's a bit annoying to spray few bursts and having to stop because compressor keep reloading itself. I thought that 3L tank would be sufficient for longer. It even sometimes reloads when I don't use airbrush at all, just leave it laying. I checked connections with soap water to find any possible leak but without success.

>>96752854
try preshading

>>96752696
Not a desk I use exclusively for painting, no

I'm thinking GW needs to scale things better. I've updated my Regiment to something larger. I may go bigger too.

>>96752854
>I keep failing to reach sufficient visible contrast.
Just like when painting with a hairy stick that means you're either using too similar paints, or you're not putting paint A in this spot and paint B in that spot but somewhat equal amounts of first A and then B all over the place leaving no differences to create the contrast.

>and paint gets into deeper areas even when I keep airbrush at high angle
If you want to be specific about where the paint ends up then it's time for a not so small nozzle and moving in closer. If you simply blast away all over then, yeah, the paint will end up all over. It isn't really like a (reverse) wash that's going to get drawn into recesses (onto the raised edges).

>Plus, it's a bit annoying to spray few bursts and having to stop because compressor keep reloading itself. I thought that 3L tank would be sufficient for longer.
You really shouldn't need to stop while the compressor re-fills the tank. The tank should initially be filled to a much higher pressure than you paint with, and you have a pressure regulator on the outgoing side to dial stuff down to what your want to airbrush with. As you paint the pressure will then drop of course, but the compressor should kick in and push it back up long before it gets down to whatever you have the pressure regulator set at, and it should be entirely capable of doing so while you keep painting. (Some airbrush compressors don't have a tank at all, all the "air buffer" you have there is the hose.) If you have to pause because the compressor just can't keep up then you either got a shite compressor, or an airbrush which in scale model and miniature painting terms is a high airflow one (useful for basecoating things like 1/350 battleship hulls, 1/32 jet fighters, etc, but extreme overkill for a 32mm miniature) that therefore demands a higher airflow from the compressor than your average mini-painting-one can deliver.

ended up doing 3 pins each wing. Attaching now. Going to gunk greenstuff in there

>>96752854
>I keep failing to reach sufficient visible contrast.
Just like when painting with a hairy stick that means you're either using too similar paints, or you're not putting paint A in this spot and paint B in that spot but somewhat equal amounts of first A and then B all over the place leaving no differences to create the contrast.

>and paint gets into deeper areas even when I keep airbrush at high angle
If you want to be specific about where the paint ends up then it's time to move in closer, and maybe a smaller nozzle. If you simply blast away all over then, yeah, the paint will end up all over. It isn't really like a (reverse) wash that's going to get drawn into recesses (onto the raised edges).

>Plus, it's a bit annoying to spray few bursts and having to stop because compressor keep reloading itself. I thought that 3L tank would be sufficient for longer.
You really shouldn't need to stop while the compressor re-fills the tank. The tank should initially be filled to a much higher pressure than you paint with, and you have a pressure regulator on the outgoing side to dial stuff down to what your want to airbrush with. As you paint the pressure will then drop of course, but the compressor should kick in and push it back up long before it gets down to whatever you have the pressure regulator set at, and it should be entirely capable of doing so while you keep painting. (Some airbrush compressors don't have a tank at all, all the "air buffer" you have there is the hose.) If you have to pause because the compressor just can't keep up then you either got a shite compressor, or an airbrush which in scale model and miniature painting terms is a high airflow one (useful for basecoating things like 1/350 battleship hulls, 1/32 jet fighters, etc, but extreme overkill for a 32mm miniature) that therefore demands a higher airflow from the compressor than your average mini-painting-one can deliver.

>>96753027
Poor guy there could really use some moisturising skin creme.

>>96751149
Very believable stone, looking good.
>>96751386
That's a beauty
>>96752135
Personally, I think you can sneak in one more color for the gems. Both red and turquoise would work I think but I'd go with red myself.
>>96752587
>>96752613
Lovely minis, I really enjoy seeing your work. Usually swamp tufts use these more desaturated greens but you could always just drybrush that on yours. Also, I like that orange for the feathers. If you want to go further maybe you could spice it up a bit with a transition to red, yellow or even blue?

>>96753027
how do you line them up on both sides?

>>96753097
Doubling up on pinning is a good technique. You basically drill 2 holes, place in short paperclips that barely poke out of the holes. Then dab each end with paint and then dry fit the two parts together. Then you can tell where to drill for the other sides. I'm using a few pins that are over 2.5 inches so each side is around 1.25"

Now what I have to do is clean up this sort of bad recast. Lots of gap filling but I have to make it look like stretched skin and chaos flesh so it should be easy - just a lot of work overall.

The base is going to be rocks/dirt/yellow tufts. Norther warriors of chaos looking.

>>96751386
holy shit I didn't see this. pure sex, anon.

>>96751386
fantastic head. Really clean, I like the golds and his left leg/foot

I need some clownspiration.

I’m planning to paint some Harlequins soon and I’m either gonna go full black and red Harley Quinn or this sort of red and green look.

Anyone got any sick painted Harlequin pics?

>>96753364
I get that those panels are a realism thing but they look so ugly in a very bad way.

I want to give up. I kept thinning paint for airbrush even to the point where it would be almost runny water - and it would still clog. I would take off cap, wipe needle, put it back on and blast at tissue with full force - it would spray but stop anyway seconds later. When I decided it's enough of humiliation for today, I took it apart for cleaning and needle literally had section with dried layer of paint. And when I tried to look at YT, I keep running into sometimes mutually exclusive advices.

>just spray at 2.5bar, it won't clog
>nooo, you must spray at 1.5bar instead!
>you don't need flow improvers and thinners, just add a lot of water but not too much, you must guess how much is too much
>you actually do need flow improver and add just little water so it won't be runny
>don't hold trigger, don't use trigger limiter (that screw on the back), just press and pull back and forth in pulse movements in precise control, remember to do reverse perfectly or you will splash next time
>no, just hold it but keep it moving

And so on. I'm starting to think I shouldn't touch it at all.

>>96753035
Still, thank you for suggestions. As for compressor - it should be sufficient (23L/min), airbrush too shouldn't be too demanding, but again, don't know who to listen anymore since Jose Davinci (who over and over shows that he knows the stuff) explicitly says I should give compressor a break when he refill the tank.

>>96753811
If you end up with dry paint on your needle it means there's air around the needle. It's either faulty seals, not enough paint in the cup, enough tip dry to block the nozzle or shitty airbrush.

>>96753095
Thank you! That's always nice to hear, and I appreciate the idear. I think I'll try the feather color transition

>>96753848
So basically everything, including already damaged it while cleaning so far. But, to be honest, it could be blocked nozzle you mentioned since paint that dried was not the one I started with - at first I sprayed four colors from AK and it was fine, what dried was Vallejo (new) Model Color I tried later.

>>96753811
>>you don't need flow improvers and thinners, just add a lot of water
>>you actually do need flow improver and add just little water
I'm sorry to say it, but you've been receiving really shit advice, man
Just use a proper thinner. Using water as your main diluent is just not ideal (particularly if you're just using neat tap water, rather than filtered), and is probably the reason why you're getting clogging
Thin your paint in a separate cup or something rather than straight in the airbrush cup, at least until you get a feel for a good consistency. The old cliche is to thin it to a consistency of skimmed milk, but it basically just means to thin it to the point where you could drag some paint up the side of the cup and most of it will run down off the inside leaving just a thin glaze behind, rather than sticking to sides in a thick coat (picrel to give a better idea, this vid also shows the idea nicely using lacquer paints, but exact same principle applies to aqueous acrylics https://youtu.be/upKvY0s4lWA)
1bar to 2bar pressure is about right at that level of dilution for getting clean layers

Hopefully last WIP before I finish this guy. Though I still haven't taken the backpack off the sprue even. Part of me thinks I should have just filed down the backpack attachment point and had him just wearing a coat. Backpacks are always so tedious and overdetailed for what they are, it makes them feel like such a chore.

>>96751386
much sexo as always, BTanon.

>>96751046
I recently dropped my Skaven Greyseer and it landed on its nose. Plastic was flattened to where the tip was gone. Put a dot of sprue goo on the flat area and the little dome it made the small pool actually did the job without having to any work after

>>96753811
Just go with Vince's good old 8/2 thinner/flow improver and then just 1:1 with paint and 1:3 with primers. Compressor 15-25 PSI.
Otherwise, if you are unsure who to listen to, I recommend watching basic videos from HS, it's unironically the best advice/tutorials on the subject, zero bullshit and memery.
Setting up, using, and cleaning the airbrush is extremely easy and simple. If it is not you are either fucking something up/have shit or faulty airbrush.

>>96752636
I honestly dont know if it's all coming together or all falling apart
I'll look over it again in the morning

>>96754072
Yeah, figures I fucking something up, like I usually do. Everything everyone do without issues I always manage to fuck up. Always.

Why everyone keep talking about this PSI anyway instead of using bars, anyway?

>>96753933
At my first attempt at using it, I kept adding small amount of flow improver and thinner and it didn't clog that time. This time I used water instead and while AK was fine, Vallejo was drying rapidly. I saw so many people using just water and thought that I'm simply wasting money here.

So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?

>>96754268
>So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?
Nah, it's harsh enough to strip paint but not enough to do any damage to the airbrush

>>96754226
Not sold on the melta on the shoulder
I'd trim that shoulder plate to have curves. Chaos stuff has more curves because it's supposed to look more organic than the imperial hard lines of industry

>>96754268
The most likely situation here is that your airbrush is just dirty and you aren't cleaning it effectively between uses. I bet if you ran a harsher chemical through it like acetone you'll see a ton of gunk come out.

You should be able to airbrush pretty much any dropper bottle paints right out of the bottle. It might be easier to get thinner coats for filters or effects etc. with thinning, but it shouldn't be strictly necessary.

Another not-commonly talked about issue is pulling back on the airbrush trigger without pushing it down all the way (doing it in 1 motion instead of air then paint), that's more of a paint results issue, but then the other part is running air through the brush without paint, it will cause really bad tip dry.

Instead of overthinning your paints as a crutch, at least for >0.3 needles, try and get a vallejo paint (not white, because that's just kneecapping yourself) and at most mix it with a 1:10 ratio of flow improver and no thinner. It will help you figure out what in your use or technique is causing the clogging problems.

>>96754268
>Everything everyone do without issues I always manage to fuck up. Always.
Naw, your airbrush might be fucked, too. It happens.
>Why everyone keep talking about this PSI anyway instead of using bars, anyway?
Because it's easier and more exact to say 25 PSI rather than 1,7231 bar.
>So, using Vallejo cleaner is safe too and it won't destroy all seals and such?
NTA, but yeah, it's safe. That said, I would recommend Medea airbrush cleaner. It's odorless, works really nice, and you can get it in fuckhuge bottles that will last you a lifetime. You can also just use IPA.

>>96754369
It'd be cool if we could all start using kilopascals.

Just the metal parts left and some weathering before jumping on to the shield and horse.

>airbrush cleaner
don't let yourself get scammed by this shit. vallejo airbrush cleaner is $12 for 200ml on scamazon. a 1 gallon can of acetone is $21 at home depot.
>but muh seals
you can put acetone through a good air brush no problem and the savings on cleaner alone will make up for the cost difference between a good one and a cheap piece of crap

>>96754427
airbrushes are literally made with the expectation of running lacquer paints through them, and people are like
>but if I wash it with acetone quickly and rinse it out it will ruin it!

It's like driving your car to work every day and then when you need to take it to the mechanic's for something you're like "Well I don't wanna put the extra miles on it, I've gotta go to work every day, after all".

>>96754427
I use airbrush cleaner because it's odorless and works perfectly. I also bought 1 liter bottle ages ago and I still have around half. Feels kinda silly to get this worked up because of like eight dollars.

>>96754443
the problem is fearmongers getting people to treat themselves like children who can't be trusted not to drink their paint. I've worked with 2k type paints that you have to clean with acetone every time because otherwise they will harden on the needle and then the only way to get it off is by sand blasting and it's no big deal.

>>96751310
I lacked a dedicated hobby desk for a couple of years. I made a box with everything I needed to paint, and a box with everything I needed to build and prep models. When I wanted to get started I'd move the whole box onto a table and have all I needed within reach. I used a sheet of baking paper to protect the table from paint spatter. Setup was like 2 minutes when you include getting water.

>>96754323
Got you, thank you anon . I may put the melta on its own little arm or something. It just felt like it needed something ranged

>>96754483
>Feels kinda silly to get this worked up because of like eight dollars.
It's especially funny since we're painting very overpriced plastic yet people lose their shit over trivial garbage like this or a bottle of paint being a dollar more expensive.

>>96754369
I'm little too scared on IPA potentially destroying rubber seals but I do use it on needle when it's out and parts that do not have seals on them. Likewise I'm too scared on using that cleaning needle I got with ramrods and use partially destroyed 0/4 brush instead. Brush itself was working just fine so far so I doubt it suddenly got faulty today. But thanks for tips.

>>96754351
To be honest, when I took it apart and removed that paint from needle, I also used cleaning rod and after flushing some water, it did removed some dried paint lumps too. Overall I have no idea why AK paints were working without any issues and suddenly that Vallejo dark violet instead caused tons of problems.

And I indeed have problems with proper trigger motion and most probably frequently stop air before I move trigger back to front position since I also frequently "spit" the paint. Stupid question incoming - why insisting on using dual action system then instead of single one? I keep hearing "because you control both air pressure and amount of paint" but you press air fully anyway and blow with full force, instead regulating pressure on compressor.

>>96754491
You just gave me a great idea. Let's invest in a paint company that makes 2 part coats, and tell miniature youtubers they exist and are the best primers, even better than lacquer (it doesn't matter that that's not true because they're too thick, shhhh).
My hobby store's black mr. surfacer stock still hasn't recovered from the vince video and it's been like a year or more.

>>96754394
>It'd be cool if we could all start using kilopascals.
That's what the nips do.

>Cayway sells these 4, 15g each for 15 bucks
>for the exact same price, GSW sells 1g worth of leaf litter
What's the catch here folks? I know trainchads have it good but this is a bit absurd

>>96754518
1 gallon of vallejo airbrush cleaner would cost $227. the difference between that and 1 gallon of acetone is $206. an iwata eclipse only costs $170.

>>96754583
Does acetone even work for water based acrylics? I tried cleaning my airbrush with hardware store thinner after spraying contrast paint once and the paint and thinner mixture coagulated into a nearly impossible to remove gunk

>>96754523
>why insisting on using dual action system then instead of single one? I keep hearing "because you control both air pressure and amount of paint" but you press air fully anyway and blow with full force, instead regulating pressure on compressor.

Couple of things.
>because you control both air pressure and amount of paint
not *really*, in single action you control air pressure but not paint (which can still be fine, especially for base coats or priming or large things). But for mini painting, even just priming in a lot of cases, you mostly want to control the paint flow, the air control just kind of incidentally comes along with that in dual action, but is absent in single action. There is at least 1 brand of airbrush (don't remember what) where they have a "dual action", according to them anyway, airbrush that is only 1 trigger motion where as you pull it it starts the air and then once the valve is open all the way the rest of the motion starts and increases the paint flow.

As for why dual action is the standard in general, just for base coats it probably doesn't need to be. The only problem I have with my single action is that it's siphon fed, which is fine for priming, but bad if you ever want to be switching paints. And it's worth noting that these problems don't exist in paint types outside of water based acrylics. Water is the weakest solvent and the tiny bits of instantly drying paint aren't re-activated by the paint itself as you keep spraying, they just build up. Lacquer (probably enamel too but idk, even tamiya's alcohol ones are fine though lacquer is just the most extreme example) paints instantly re-activate any tip dry for example when you pick the brush back up, so you can do a quick spray to make sure it doesn't splatter on the first spray, and then it's good again, if you tried that with acrylic it will just sputter and get even worse.

>>96754621
it should work for about anything. acetone is one of the best solvents that doesn't give you cancer.

>>96754583
NTA and you can call me poor but reminds me how since my phd days I still instinctively count everything in either 1 or 3 months of public transport ticket or single meal at university (which nowdays is nicely scaled to said ticket, costing 1/10 of 3 months one). As such, 200ml of Vallejo cleaner is little less than single meal, my current airbrush was worth 5 meals and H&S Ultra was demed too costly at 2 three months tickets or 20 meals (Infinity would be worth 5 x three months tickets or 50 meals.

...I really should stop.

>>96754398
I like his hat, the chipping on the pattern's very nicely done

>>96754670
my most powerful solvent, which I assume definitely does give me cancer is a mix of
>~1% benzene
>~10% acetone
>~10% methyl ethyl ketone
>~20% methanol
>~20% xylene
>~50% or remainder toluene
(Those don't add up to 100, it's just rough)

I'm sure it's killing me, but boy does it melt everything instantly.

Alright anon how do (You) store and transport your painted miniatures?

>>96754727
I don't.
Probably not the answer you wanted though.

>>96754635
Okay, I got it. Come to think of it, I still have my grandfather's (single action) airbrush but cannot connect it to compressor due to incompatible and non-changeable plug. Bummer.

>>96754733
Well I’m sort of the same that’s my problem. I keep them in plastic storage containers but there’s too many and while I put them down base first it’s not really secure so they inevitably will get damaged.

>>96754621
>Does acetone even w-
yes. it is the solvent of the gods, no matter what you're cleaning it JustWerks. nobody knows how it works but it cleans up both oily residue and water soluble stuff, it is a miracle but it cleans everything. be careful using it for household cleaning jobs though it is pretty aggressive and might fuck up surface finishes on things and will fuck up certain types of plastic but for cleaning your tools or metal surfaces it is the undisputed king. don't listen to these fags that think acetone will immediately dissolve rubber seals and orings, these are the same safety redditors who think aerosolized acrylic paint is as bad as nerve gas

>>96754583
>1 gallon of vallejo airbrush cleaner would cost $227
Anon what the fuck. 1 gallon of Medea is like 23 bucks. https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/medea-airbrush-cleaner-gal.html
And it will last you forever. What kind of spergery are you committing here?
>acetone
Sure, it works. It also smells as fuck. It's such a redundant idea for acrylics anyway, why even.

>>96754766
>these are the same safety redditors who think aerosolized acrylic paint is as bad as nerve gas
Tbh that depends on the paint, the ones most insistent on PPE tend to be gunpla fags spraying like 50% toluene which is genuinely harmful, or 2k auto clear which will put you in the hospital

>>96754815
Yeah but asians can be trusted to wear a proper respirator. In america you'll have people spraying toluene through their airbrush while wearing a bandana over their mouth.

>>96754833
>asians can be trusted to wear a proper respirator
you have never watched asians paint then

>>96754853
Listen, just let me hate white people, okay? It's all I have.

I want the /40kg/ subhuman leakage to go back.

>>96754923
I don't have anything to talk about :(

>>96754502
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19A99oPB-Aw

>>96754573
Train stuff is usually pretty low quality and a smaller or different scale to what we want. However, it's often worth trying anyway because your alternatives are usually stupidly priced.

How do I get back into painting a model (or modelS) that I have had on the sidelines for a long time?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z26VEUFGroQ
is this a good video?

>>96755387
>Use This Hack
no, it's not

>>96755387
>2 minutes in
>still autistic rambling
Really trying my patience here, man. This hack better be good.

Hey boys, me again. I did up the next suit with a black undersuit, adding an extra color like some suggested and going with the studio concept of black=inactive stealth field. It works pretty good, especially as a team leader.
Putting a bit of brass on the widgets with the one-color suits, however, made them look much better to me so I think I'll keep them like that. I've got one more xv15 and an xv25 to paint in desert colors, and then 3 more suits which I'll try a forest camo for.

>>96755492
Those recess washes just aren't working for me still. They are too messy and inconsistent. Maybe try them the gunpla way. Throw your paint down, then gloss coat the mini and put an enamel panel liner in them, then matt varnish finish. Those acrylic washes just don't have the right consistency for it. Either that or you do it a couple of times to darken it and then spend time cleaning up the rough edges which will probably take too long.

>>96755513
I should probably use my paint retarder to keep them wet for longer so I can make them more consistent. I'm thinning down black paint to a wash consistency, but having to do it over and over means it's not the same 100% of the time.
I should probably do what I did with some of my whites and just run water directly into the pot and make the entire pot a wash. That's worked for me once or twice.

There is a planet in /mysector/ called Bastio. It's a water world with moving, floating hive cities. It's a little different from normal hive cities because the lower the level, the more prestigious and wealthy the residents. The surface is fairly flat and highly radioactive. The aquatic life is monstrous and mutated. Pirates and such attack constantly (think Waterworld) and giant bunker buoys from lower levels shoot out of the water to fend them off kilometers from the hive. The mid tier levels have flooding and severe gang warfare (think bioshock). They either fight aquatic horrors, mutants, or each other. The lower levels are dry, brightly lit, and secure. The rulers of the hive live here. Pomp and circumstance, possibly fish people, etc. They'll often open an airlock, let a horror beyond belief run rampant in the populous, and hunt it down to 'save' the people and reaffirm their loyalty.

There is also a feature that all hives on the planet have. A giant tube running all the way down the hive. A lot of people have moved into the tube for various reasons. Entire cities have been built (think favelas lining a giant missile silo) in the tube. Billions of people. The tube is an anti-orbital laser weapon, which is used my my lore. The first shot atomizes everything in the barrel and doesn't perform like it should, pissing a noble off. Turns out all those people and structures reduced efficiency by 15%. He scoffs and fires another shot.

There are subnautical knights fighting off cthulus, guardsmen in "Fathom Armor" similar to big daddies patrolling the levels, mutant shark people rampaging, etc.

>>96755547
why are you torturing yourself instead of just buying a wash?

>>96755547
the problem is not the consistency it's that you're putting it on like paint instead of a real wash. it should just be wicking into the panel lines and then you clean up any overrun with solvent. the way you're doing it just looks like you tried to carefully paint the lines by hand.

>>96755547
Water doesn't make a wash, it makes diluted paint. Use a wash medium.

>>96755680
I deserve to suffer
>>96755688
>the way you're doing it just looks like you tried to carefully paint the lines by hand.
Is that not how you apply recess washes? What do you mean solvent?

>>96755692
God I love coming to this thread for advice there's a whole goddamn planet I've been missing out on

>>96755706
I can't tell if this is a sarcastic comment or not.

>>96755701
There are two ways to do recess shading.
1. Using acrylic washes. You paint the recesses with a dark wash, then clean up any overspill with the color around it. A pain in the ass if your scheme is bright (white/yellow).
2. Using enamel/oil based panel liners. You gloss varnish the model, use panel liner and then clean up with white spirits. Easy and fast, the only complication is having to varnish the model beforehand (or the cleanup process will damage the paint).

>>96755713
It's very much not. Genuinly there's stuff people use and do that I have no idea about. Aside from you guys here and the odd video on the tube I'm flying blind
>>96755720
I'm trying this right now.

>>96752029
>3 paint sessions per mini and one day to masturbate to your loli waifu.
Why are you addressing me? I didn't even say anything this thread.

>>96755732
Look up videos on how to use Tamiya panel liner. There are tons of gunpla examples.

>>96754573
all 4 @15g for $15 is a great price, even if you can get them for free, the effort to dye and cook them is worth the $15

>>96755749
Okay lemme take a look.
That ink didn't work at all. Pitch black and less controllable than watering down the acryllic.

What's the biggest model you've done without an airbrush? At a certain point it feels impractical to paint a model with just a brush because of how long it would take just to get the base coats down. I think the biggest I would go at this point is maybe one of the newer dreadnoughts or like a corpse cart in AOS. And the biggest model I'd attempt even with one would probably be a knight. Fuck titans, those things are scary to think about painting.

>>96755769
tallest, at least. In terms of surface area the cerastus knights measure up slightly.

>>96755769
>What's the biggest model you've done without an airbrush?
This brass scorpion. Spray primed black and drybrushed with leadbelcher for the base color.

>>96755769
Years ago when I started I painted a couple of gunpla with a brush. It's not fun. But I also didn't do a whole lot with them. Just slapped one colour on each part.

>>96755701
the normal way to do panel lines on vehicles and gundams is to dab your wash into the lines and then wipe off anything that isn't recessed with a qtip soaked in solvent. this makes them look clean and mechanical instead of painted on. the other way is with a panel lining marker. trying to free hand it with a brush will always look messy and painted on.

more progress

Probably done except for the backpack now.

>>96756125
Really nice job on the flag/banner/thing.

>>96750857 (OP)
> Scale75/Avante Garde is having a sale
> everything is nearly sold out
> they began using AI slop for promo material
Are...they dying?

Its hard to show just how much work this is taking but I need to share it with someone. Im slowly cleaning up this busted up forgeworld avatar, puttying the edges and cleaning up the shapes. I think I am on my 10th or 11th putty session. Its such a fucking cool model and Ive always wanted one, but man the old hand sculpt really fails in certain details when you are used to the modern cad precision.

And some closeups of the repairs. Sculpting these fine edges is incredibly hard. Each one is a multi-session job, first you have to just get the putty in the space you want (and getting it to stick to such a tiny surface is really hard) then you can sand it to make a framework and then apply more layers of putty. The sword is currently on 5 different layers of putty just on the outer edge, the inner edge is on 3. The organic details of this sculpt are so fantastic but all the inorganic armour such as the trim and the blade are just not good.

The worst part so far was fixing the details on the left pauldron which were all wobbly looking (like you can see in the front one), that probably took 3-4 hours alone, with the trim repair and straightening taking about the same time but over multiple sessions of buildup and sanding/filing. Its coming along smoothly though, probably 2/3rds done. Main things left are front pauldron details and finishing the blade.

>>96756840
>>96756872
Very cool. And yes it looks like a nightmare, but best to spend the time now.

>>96756840
>>96756872
Jesus Christ that's brutal.

>>96756967
If you get a forgeworld model and you DON'T try and make your own silicone mold of it after fixing it, are you even a real hobbist?

>>96756977
Why?

>>96756950
>>96756967
Thanks. Im super happy with how its turning out. I am really currious if they were all like this, or if the one I bought off ebay was a just bad. I have never seen a recast that has the giant FW trapazoid gates. And it doesn't smell like a recast either. I actually have a recast one too but its not much worse. I actually ended up using the recast head cause it was slightly better and the real one was missing the ear piece and top not.
>>96756977
Ha I've always thought about it.

>>96755769
Im regularly painting Gunpla and other Bandai models with brush and lately with sponge painting. It's actually fun.

>>96755769
I painted this gunpla kit with brushes. Even used contrast paints for the red.

>>96757087
that looks great anon

>>96757087
And it went out quite nice. I wouldn't expect contrast paints to give such good effect over large areas.

Before going sleep, I gave this guy from yesterday small amount of drybrushing with white since he is supposed to be "water elemental". Originally he was all blue but do you think it's good idea to paint his pincer and those sticking out elements (carpace?) red, perhaps with contrast paint?

>>96757159
Thanks.
>>96757170
The whole thing was zenithal primed using black, grey and white spraycans - the gradients you see on the armor are from that.

Getting into dawn of war definitive edition is really taking time away from painting. Not complaining though its super fun. Really need to figure out how to take photos of squads with a phone without such a narrow plane of focus.

>>96757289
>Really need to figure out how to take photos of squads with a phone without such a narrow plane of focus.
Take photos from farther away and then crop. Modern phone resolution is high enough to not lose any meaningful amount of detail with distance.

>>96757314
NTA but when I tried that, it would never, ever focus correctly, always focusing on behind or on front (mostly on behind).

>>96757384
You can tap the screen to force it to focus on a particular location, grandpa.

>>96757289
>Really need to figure out how to take photos of squads with a phone without such a narrow plane of focus.
if you have your phone on a tripod, make several photos focused on different points and focustack them with whatever app or photoshop

Finished some clanrats

Also prepared some older ones based on bits I got second hand.

>>96757398
That's what I do, squirt. Phone thinks it knows better tho and that cup behind is more interesting that guys on the front, even in the distance.

>>96757448
look if you can turn on something like lock focus on your settings, or if you have something like autofocus on taking photo disable it, or change your camera app

>>96757448
prop a plain background behind them sot here's nothing else to focus on

>>96755132
They're on the smaller side, but as decorations scattered around they seem perfectly fine at a distance since they have some nice colouring and variety going on
I just can't wrap my head around GSW being this jewish for a minuscule jar of scatter, it's more fucking expensive than buying top notch weed

>>96757520
>I just can't wrap my head around GSW being this jewish for a minuscule jar of scatter
I can.

>>96755132
>>96757520
they're the leafy bits from birch tree seed pods. They only really come in one size.

Also GSW is a notoriously shitty company. They steal left and right and fuck people over.

>>96757574
>They steal left and right and fuck people over.
elaborate

>>96757520
>whining over a box of leaf litter that will probably last you a lifetime costing 6 euros
I'm not a big fan of GSW either but you're fucking retarded. Also I don't know what kind of weed you're smoking but if it's 6 euros a gram it's definitely not top notch lmao

>>96757664
They abuse European product pattern laws to steal ideas from other companies and monopolize the product.
They stole the idea for the tube tool from Stephan Niehaus (spelling?), sculptor and owner of now defunct Masq Miniatures. They stole the idea for the leaf punches from PK-Pro.

I'm sure you can find a better writeup if you google with information I gave you. They are basically scum. But they are smart businesspeople I guess. Can't go to a hobby store without seeing their stuff now because it's convenient and cheaper than other hobby brands. Nothing you can't find on alibaba, ebay or amazon if you look for chinese sellers though~
Stuff like reselling plastic containers for coin collectors in packs of ten as "gaming token protector" for how much it costs to buy 100 if you know the original use-case and just look for coin related stuff.

>>96757680
>I'm not a big fan of GSW either but you're fucking retarded
If you read this thread (or this website in general), you'll see that whining about minuscule, completely marginal amounts of hobby-related spending is extremely common. I have no clue what kind of retardation this is, but it has been proliferating 4chong for a while now.
I'm not defending GSW, but it's like spergs NEED to be mad about something.

>>96757692
>They stole the idea for the leaf punches from PK-Pro.

And PK-Pro "got inspired" by some other hobby suppliers. And forgot to secure the rights, so stealing something that has no owner is not really stealing. Pk Pro were just highly unprofessional

>>96757520
>>96757574
>muh GSW
We've been over this a million times already, you're paying for convenience and availability. Take your retarded virtue signalling crusade somewhere else, faggot.

>>96757574
They buy stuff in china and sell it for more in Europe. If the price is still acceptable for you, then what's wrong with that?

>>96757711
>They buy stuff in china and sell it for more in Europe.
Not all of their stuff.

>>96757711
>They buy stuff in china and sell it for more in Europe
This is what 90%+ of western companies do one way or the other so throwing a tantrum over one particular example is a symptom of brain damage

>>96757713
Probably not, but I honestly don't care. I buy their stuff from my local store, because it's available and cheap enough and usually the quality is good enough too.

>>96757711
I just get my leaves from the yard. Why would i buy them from chyna

Do you guys have any pro tips for oil wash? Can i clean oil wash while it is still wet without using white spirit?

>>96758105
yeah u can "smoosh" it off with a dry brush, "buff" it off with a makeup sponge/qtip or just wipe it off with a thumb/papertowel. Object will saturate the object so results will tail off. While paints still wet it acts the same as if u use white spirits after it dries because the spirits reactivate the paint for it to act like its in a "wet" state again

>>96756617
>they began using AI slop for promo material
oh?

>>96757680
The box is 15 for a gram
If you're paying 15 buckaridoos for a gram, you're probably buying some decently nice kush

>>96757710
I was asking because MAYBE there was something I was missing about the obvious price difference, and DISCUSSING the matter with my fellow autists (who probably have experience with either product) seemed like the best thing to do.
I apologize if I offended [brand], hope they throw you some nice fake gravel (40 bucks a gram) next time you order from them.

>>96756617
>>they began using AI slop for promo material
Vallejo is using it as well.

>>96753095
>>96753352
>>96753364
>>96754000
Much appreciated anons

>>96758714
so what are you going to paint this week and when? Tonight? It's just like cardio or lifting. Good habits can start today

I'm now working with greenstuff on fixing the teeth, spines, and corrections before priming tonight. I'm going to add another layer of sand as well, some of the coverage wasnt great after drying.

>>96757574
>>96757520
They're $5~ for a pill sized bottle at my local train shop. I've heard of the puncher leaves and I thought they were too "Big". I like these I used here.

I bought this 1989 ghost ship but the paint is completely dead, who makes good glow in the dark green model paint?

>>96754573
I got FOIMAS for less than $10 on amazon.

>>96752854
Use a much wider range of colours, go from straight black (or dark puple) to your main blue to a pale almost white blue for spot highlighting, the whole thing of an airbrush is that it gives you easy blends

>>96754573
>for the exact same price, GSW sells 1g worth of leaf litter
where are you seeing those prices?
is still more expensive but all i see are ~6€ pots of 10g or 15g, is it a usa thing?

in any case, most mass produced hobby stuff is like that, you can find tufts, static grass and stuff like that on aliexpress for a fraction of the price of hobby brands, always check china first if you are not in a hurry

for leaf litter I use tea leaves (used) with some oregano sprinkled on.

>>96755732
> the odd video on the tube I'm flying blind
google whatever you want to find about but set the date filter to before 2012 or something like that, and skip any youtube video with a thumbnail that isn't a still frame of the video
there's still old forums and blogs with good information from the dark age of technology where people made washes with floor polish and dyed their own sawdust

>>96754727
i have asked myself this several times, and tried several stuff
for the models i actualy moved around back then i have one of those plastic boxes with configurable slots for screws and shit like that to wich i added some layers of foam on the bottom and between layers of models, very ghetto but it worked perfectly for regular infantry and some wolves

then i tried getting foam and cutting individualy shaped holes for each model of a unit, and store them in the original gw box they came in, its's a neat concept but too much work without a laser cutter, and only works for certain models as you can imagine

also got pic related on aliexpress just to test it for bulkier models, its works but its kind of bulky and specific..

there also the option of an ikea kvissle or similar and magnets, inside a bag, but i wouldn't trust just that for transport, there was an anon recently that fell of the stairs and broke his bones and his models with a similar setup

i think the best way is to get purpose made suitcases with square holed foam or pick and pluck

>>96759468
>aliexpress
You have opened my eyes, anon
If there's any "brand" or anything else there you would 100% recommend PLEASE drop links
For basing stuff mostly, I wouldn't buy clippers or brushes from there

>>96754727
>>96759658

>>96757748
Thats fair, but do you also get little chains, etched brass, mdf stuff and foamboard from your yard?

>>96759683
i just get whatever looks fine, i have static grass and tufts from noname stores like 'Shop1102941113 Store' and its fine, like everything else 90% of listings for any given product are the exact same product from the exact same factory
picrel is some grass (color -2 here) >https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005969800652.html
the tufts i got are oos >https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005884164187.html

also remember you can search by image, find a product on google or even in there and search it for image to find the cheapest iteration


> I wouldn't buy clippers or brushes from there
there are some brands that are good for tools there but they aren't much cheaper, like dspiae or ustar, you can also find olfa and tamiya stuff at usual prices

>>96759683
Not him, but i have bought some random tufts from Temu a while ago, and they all were perfectly good quality. Pic related was the most funny one because of the obvious fake packaging, but the tufts itself are totally good quality.

>>96754727
I riveted a baking tray onto a plastic container since I can't find rubber steel sheets locally. Transports an elite army fine. But Sistema's containers however good - are a bit annoying in not really having as good of a form factor for this kind of thing. Someone else at my LGS uses a smaller one that comes with a plastic caddy inset that's deep enough to hold his infantry, and leaves enough clearance below to have his vehicles underneath without any magnetizing.

Been working on this guy. He looks like he was literally sculpted for eavy metal so I went all in on that. The idea is using a halloween-inspired palette, does it give that vibe? Looking at him now I probably should've went purple for the blades, I think.

>>96759908
Looks fine, but I would make his helmet more white than his horns

That red might not been the best idea. Should I cover it with other colour or just leave it be?

>>96760180
Yeah that's the plan, the horns will be an actual bone color and the mask an off-white. I just basecoated both with the same paint.

>>96759889
>>96759872
baaaaaaaaaaaased thank you anons

>>96760234
it looks like it's made out of rocks now instead of water

Another halfling conversion. This guy was part of a cannon crew and I had a duplicate because I bought 2 of the cannons. Thought I'd try to exploit the pose to create an NCO or junior officer type for the handgun/arquebus unit. Was going for a look like he's giving the command to fire or perhaps rallying his men before battle as he stares down his opponents across the field with his sword held aloft in confidence.

Overall not bad so far I think.

>>96760385
Well, they were shaped like rocks and his pincer was crane-like as well. I simply don't know so that's why I asked for opinion.

Should I finish the last step I have on my current project tonight, or project hop to one of my other projects that's been on the shelf for a bit?

>>96760799
Finish it tonight, dude.

I spent hours today trying to make this recast look passable. This is my honest best to try and water smooth the greenstuff

>>96761161
I still can't tell what it's supposed to be aside from disgusting. does it have 2 heads that you didn't attach yet?

>>96753811
>I want to give up. I kept thinning paint for airbrush even to the point where it would be almost runny water - and it would still clog
Have you tried a different thinner? Also if you're using water based acrylics here then, yeah, they're not the best behaved things when it comes to airbrushing. (Much as I like Vallejo and GW for brush painting, if I'm going to primarily paint something by airbrush then I'll reach for Tamiya or Mr Paint instead.) Actual trigger technique is sorta like it too, find what works for you and if anyone tells you there's this One True Way™ then don't take that as gospel.

>explicitly says I should give compressor a break when he refill the tank.
I guess if you want to make sure your compressor lasts as long as possible then taking breaks like that will help prevent overheating (the tank and regulator should ensure a smooth airflow to the brush even when the compressor is at full tilt). But frankly even my standard Chinese compressor has lasted over a decade now despite the fact that I won't stop spraying to let the compressor rest even if the smell of toasty seals gets intense enough to break through the lacquer thinner fumes and the top of the compressor gets uncomfortably hot to the touch.
As for pressure, your hose and airbrush will "steal" some of the pressure shown on your regulator, and on top of that different paints at different thinning ratios and different airbrush-model distances will call for different pressure. So just about any "this specific pressure is what you should use" advice will be... questionable. You can use people's suggestions as a starting point, but in the end you have to find out what works for your specific case.

this may be a stupid question but if you set a compressor to 120 psi at the tank and regulate it down to 15 psi at your paint station will there be more air stored than if you just had the compressor at 15 psi?

>>96761254
It's the old Forgeworld Chaos Dragon.

In so called meantime, little messy right now but progress on daroon ladies and her mount.

>>96761370
your tank probably fills to max pressure no matter what you set on the valve so no

>>96761346
I don't really want to use Tamiya and such because I don't have space and means for active ventilation setup so I use water-based paints precisely so I can just place cardboard and wear P3 half-mask during spraying. But thanks anyway.

>>96761387
>>96761254
thank you for responding. Yeah an old model from 2000 that I picked up a recast of since it was one of my "holy grails".

The cast fucked up most of the teeth + dragon heads. I'm fixing up a lot right now.

>>96753811
https://youtu.be/inZcoxkuylk
The airbrush asylum guy does a pretty good and concise job at explaining how to best use an airbrush and common problems while using one. You also want to get into the habit of spraying a second more of air than paint to keep it from lingering on the tip

>>96755262
Put them on your painting table and put paint on the model

>>96754727
Bubble wrapped in a tool bag

>>96761392
I like to imagine she walks everywhere like that, to assert dominance.

>>96761511
you don't have a window?

>>96761571
Alright, thanks for link.

>>96761601
Aside from window I have low temperatures outside and spray in my own room.

>>96761511
Yep, that's the tradeoff.

>>96761673
>I have low temperatures outside
Let's just say I've done my fair share of airbrushing wearing slippers.

>>96761161
I can't recommend Milliput enough. I used greenstuff for decades and it's a bitch to smooth.

>>96761796
Smoothing out milliput with a wet finger feels so nice

>>96761813
I knooow and you can sand it too and it doesn't flake like greenstuff.

>>96759040
I don't know if you wanted to reply to me, but I'll have you know I'm giving a very light refresh to my old terminator chaplain kitbash, probably just made it slightly worse and ruined its original sovl.

>>96761673
outside temperature shouldn't matter since you are pushing inside air out.

>>96761826
i mean greenstuff sure doesnt sand liek millipout but if it flakes when you sand it you are doing something wrong, use a finer grit, mix it better, blend it better

Got some Gors in the pipeline built and primed, of the Slaanesh variety. I wanted to ask you anons opinion. For the Ungors, should I change up the purple skin tone, or keep it consistent with the one I painted?
I also apparently only brought some fairly shite bushes with me on the road, so I guess I’ll be making a trip to hobby lobby.

Here is my lovely Slaangor test model and the aforementioned shite brushes.
Once these are done I’ll build the AoS Slaangors and the one from Underworlds.

>>96762478
He looks disappointed about something
I like your purple

>>96762478
They look a bit dusty but idk if thats just the camera. Looks neat though.

>>96762478
No tits and no dick?
You know slaanesh isn't the chaos god of purple, right?

>>96751466
For anyone who likes high quality tools, you cannot get better than Lindstrom for cutters. If you want something that cannot be beat, buy these. Do not try to cut hard metal with them or you will ruin them. Linked here are their ultra flush cut size small with a tapered/relieved head for better reach into tight spaces.
https://www.techni-tool.com/product/844PL418-8148

>>96752587
Is it like CatDog and shits out of one's mouth or is there some shit hole kinda thing in the middle somewhere?

>>96762982
There's a cloassy in the middle.

>>96761895
It was to you!

Whats your kitbash look like? Terminator with a headswap for a skull?

>>96762921
I'm skeptical that these would cut better than godhands? Being for metal they would probably still more crush the plastic, even if they're more durable.

after doing some investigation into different hobby circles this is what I have observed:

>gundam people:
>use airbrush for everything
>use all kinds of paints
>usually clean mold lines and drill gun barrels
>complain if there's even a tiny bit of grainy texture visible in zoomed in photos

>scale model people:
>use airbrush and regular brush
>mostly use acrylic paint but use other types including oils
>will spend hours gluing rivets onto a model based on real ww2 blueprints before even touching it with paint
>can't touch their models without gloves on because of all the effects glued to them

>war gaming people:
>only use acrylics and brush painting
>emphasize "artist" type painting techniques
>will spend weeks painting a model to exhibition quality over dry sprayed primer and undrilled barrels

how correct am I? how did people who are doing basically the same end up with such different habits?

>>96763194
I cannot say because I dont have both to compare, and in all honestly I dont have either. I have the lindstrom 8140 micro-bevel cutters (had them for 15 years) and havn't justified buying another 80 dollar pair of cutters. But those are what I would buy.
God hand nippers have an interesting cutting action, they only have one sharp side, which cuts against a flat side. Lindstrom cutters have two sharp edges.

>>96763283
>will spend weeks painting a model to exhibition quality over dry sprayed primer and undrilled barrels
We should kill these people

>>96763283
>how did people who are doing basically the same end up with such different habits?
It's like saying every sport involving a ball is the same. Soccer and tennis are not compatible although they both involve a field with different zones, nets and balls. On the surface they should be similar. Maybe it's a hinky comparison, but you get the idea.

You got anime fans, weebs and people painting exclusively for display, although they are fine with unpainted plastic as well. They like these "statues" as artifacts that remind them of stories they like I suppose.
You got history nuts that will research a period, uniform, equipment, collect references go to museums etc. They are either interested in the hardware or recreating a narrative by building dioramas. Could be fuelled by personal history as well. You walk around a European city you may find some bullet holes from either World War.
Then you got wargaming where a model is a token and not just a display piece. It's primary function is to communicate information about rules if you are a gamer. Paintjobs can be utilitarian here.
If you dive into the fiction you'll find display pieces and dioramas like scale modellers or anime guys. You also have collectors who collect models like stamps.Then there is also people who just enjoy the crafting aspect and focus on building terrain over miniatures. Or the game and miniatures are a means to an end if that is how they socialize with their friends. Some people don't care about anything other than crunching numbers and they just like the idea of manipulating a logical system.

People are hard to put into neat little drawers like that. Grundam recently got a wargame btw.

>>96763283
Few reasons:
1. Gunpla and scale models are usually larger, if I had to glue rivets on a squad of 28mm guys I'd be upset.
2. Similarly, there are usually more wargaming minis so there's an assembly line mindset. A lot of things like acrylic dominance and lazy model cleanup come from that.
3. GW is the industry for a lot of people, so there's a lot less flexibility and if you're not using a GW product you're using something just as wargaming-specific.
I do see plenty of airbrush use though.

>>96763283
Gundam and scale model enthusiasts usually paint larger models to a high standard for display. They're in it for the aesthetics and art side of the hobby.

Wargamers usually have to paint 100 or so 1" dudes to fill out an army that have to be readable from about 5 feet away and most of them look the same.

>>96763577
>>96763667
I see the same habits even when it comes to big centerpiece models like tanks and knights so it can't just be a size difference.

If I want to do fallen branches or logs on a base the obvious thing to use is some twigs or sticks, but should I do anything to them before I paint them, besides make sure they're dry?

>>96763877
Bake them in an oven to kill bacteria and prevent your bases from molding.

>>96750857 (OP)
Any advice on how to make the "base" rocks look more like stone on this? I tried following a tutorial that said to use a lot of wash and use a paper towel to apply texture as it dries. The statue turned out ok, but the rocks look like shit.

>>96757574
>they're the leafy bits from birch tree seed pods. They only really come in one size.

Actually, you can find smaller seed pods tha will give you smaller leaves, most places sell the fully grown seed pod "leaves" which are pretty big. The smaller pods give smaller leaves and look a bit more like a leaf but you'd have to have a birch tree in your yard and pick them off when you see them at the right size you want. If you pick then really early you get little tiny leaves that look like flies. Depending on where you live you can get birch seeds free just by going for a walk.

>>96763283
I engage in 2 of the hobbies you listed and paint my wargame stuff both to display and table quality. They're entirely different skillsets between gunpla and miniatures. Also I think its not fair to only have a category for "wargame people", there's a big difference between slap-chop johnny trying to play a game and an autist painting for competition or pure display. I assure you the autist isn't gonna paint to display levels with no barrel drilling or a smooth coat of primer but slapchop johnny will.

The intent of what you're doing matters more than anything, and ontop of that there's a question of scale. display painting a gunpla is more about emphasizing mechanical details and a smooth almost sports car like finish that you then add onto if you want it weathered or damaged up. Where a miniature painter is gonna be more about adding drama to make the little miniature more interesting than a simple color and maybe a bit of panel modulation like you would do on the clean paint job of the average display level gundam build.

>>96764112
I'd start with a drybrush with a light khaki and see if that works better for you. You already have a decent amount of color variation as a base, which is where most people...well you can't go wrong, but it looks less natural if you only use one color as a base.
Drybrushing will make the sharp edges pop and accentuate the form more. Some of the washes dried with staining that make the rock look kind of soft. Drybrushing will add some sharp edges and more texture to the finish.

It's just adding layers of textures basically. Be deliberate about it though. Drybrush from the top down in diagonal lines to simulate highlights and focus on areas that would catch light. Wash the recessed areas to deepen shadows or darken parts, if you need to accentuate the form. Push and pull until it looks right.

>>96764425
>They're entirely different skillsets between gunpla and miniatures.
what would you say are the main differences in skills used? how much of it is just because "it's always been done this way?" I've seen a few people that tried to paint gundams gw style so I don't see why you couldn't paint a tau robot like a gundam, especially a bigger one like a riptide.

>the autist isn't gonna paint to display levels with no barrel drilling or a smooth coat of primer
the reason I pointed it out is because I've seen exactly that on many occasions. you see paint jobs that the owner clearly put a lot of time and effort into, but then there will be a big ugly seam right down the side or a sprue gate that wasn't filed down. it seems like there are a lot of warhammer guys that really just want to paint and don't care about modelling aside from the bare minimum to put things together.

>>96763283
>meanwhile painting both minis and Gundams with brush (and sponge)

>>96760234
Paint algee on it and varnish it to male it look wet

>>96764518
A lot of mecha modeling will be creation of details like scribing and pla plating. The painting is often done in a way thats more befitting of a large pose-able model, hence not so much artificial lights and highlights. There's "shading and postshading" but these arent to mimic light, purely to try to convey the size of the panels. You can paint gunpla like warhammer but you would very much so be going against the grain. It's a lot more normal to work with lacquer paints and airbrushing lacquer is massively different than acrylic as well, of course there are painters who use acrylic but again not the usual.

>the reason I pointed it out is because I've seen exactly that on many occasions.

I think me and you may have a different definition on the type of person I'm talking about, display painters wouldn't do that. It may be good for that individual and they put time into it but they aren't giving their all if they're letting stuff like that fly. Granted I will say the "effort paintjobs" from people who just want their center piece of an army to look good from 5ft away is much different than someone that wants it to look good on close inspection for photographs or tournaments.

I'd say the mentality in general between the 3 groups I mentioned in my other post is 1 only wants to get it done to be on a table and they care about them as game pieces not a work of craft or art, gunpla people tend to use techniques that are unique to them and have more overlap with tank and plane autists than tabletop painters. and people who do display painting for social media/tournaments/collection are going to be creating much more drama with artificial lighting, understanding of volumes and painting in texture. Things that aren't really done on scale models or mecha models.

>>96764518
some ppl love painting but despise building and preparing the model, is that simple, you probably don't get that in gundam because preparing the model is the main goal there, it's a different mindset, same for scale modeling where the goal is realism

it's also marketing and target, wargaming has been popularized by gw so their techniques and tools stuck, and their target is kids and people who want to game

>>96760869
Okay, didn't get it all done, but I did work on it, it's almost done, one more session on it.

>>96764425
>there's a big difference between slap-chop johnny trying to play a game and an autist painting for competition or pure display. I assure you the autist isn't gonna paint to display levels with no barrel drilling or a smooth coat of primer but slapchop johnny will.

You will find "slapchop johnny" in scale modelling too. And in Gundam modelling.
They might not be using slapchop, but you will find people posting their scale model tanks, unprimed, sloppily built and then there is a single, thick, coat of enamel paint with visible brushstrokes. And you will find Mecha unpainted, maybe some details painted with a marker and some unalligned stickers and its "finished" too.

So for the sake of comparison, these 3 types do not really belong into the picture, because neither of them has anything to do with what the "pros" are doing in their respective hobby, even if the hobby is technically the same.

>>96763283
I like how this is basically a thinly veiled jab at people in this thread but nobody took the ragebait. Eat a dick, faggot.

>>96756977
Speaking of silicone molds, can anyone suggest me a good product for making them? I've looked around but had little luck.

Sub par photo of this almost done sergeant for your time.

>>96765510
There was a guide for silicone casting posted here years ago, let me take a look through the archive.

>>96765510
I misremembered, it was oyumaru/bluestuff recasting.
https://mega.nz/#!OihwzSLR!yLIrbkeOm_zvEykMzj0HANGB1NFnT110J3GmzMW7LZQ
Also turned up this series of videos:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLeJIlSabClNAddPz-kKQ25qTZTZExaREL&si=NYqFPidjX3kJj1Ni

>>96763109
It's pic related. The 1+ year old paintjob is a bit on the plain side compared to how my style has evolved, so, being in a chaplain painting mood, I'm re touching it up a bit- but no stripping or changing it radically.

>>96750857 (OP)
I'm planning on making some bluestuff molds for some less common bits that I need more of. Is jamming a chunk of greenstuff or milliput inside really the best approach? Are there any liquid/gel epoxy solutions that wouldn't heat and fuck up the mold while curing while making serviceable mini pieces?

>>96765530
very much an improvement over that thing on the left

working on land raider crusader and trying to decide should i just glue the ramp shut
20+ years ago i had a game with this dude who actually started stuffing his terminators into his land raider before the game, after some snapping creaking and me telling him to stop he came into conclusion that this vehicle only has room for 3 not 5
funny guy but on a spectrum like you would not believe

>>96765950
There's really not much reason to keep the ramp working unless you particulary want it to be.
In my experience it doesn't open on it's own, so unless you are showing off that it opens or like it for pics, glue away

>>96765950
moving parts on vehicles are great imo, lights even, but no actual reason other than cool factor

>>96765950
Land Raiders are still the coolest tank GW has ever put together, even including the superheavies.

>>96765616
Thanks bruv

>>96765950
I glued the ramp and doors shut on my own land raider, painting vehicles is already a chore, didn't feel like painstakingly paint the interiors too at the time

forgot to show off the little rogue's gallery I did for some friends a couple of months back

>>96765992
You've got Skaven in your tank there, anon. I'll get the flame thrower.

>>96765992
>>96766007
>>96766071
>>96766115
thank you anons i will just go with blutac to leave my options open
old dusty for comparison, dont mind the undrilled barrels she is really old lady

>>96766071
agreed. everyone here should post their land raiders. no repulsor allowed.

>>96767111
I don't have a land raider :(
But yes repulsors suck. I wish bad fortune on the person who decided on that instead of making actually cool space marine tanks.

Anyone got a recommendations for a basic paint kit from other manufacturers? In the process of getting rid of my GW paints due to the dogshit pot design and it feels like the new mixes they use start to dry up a week after opening the seal.

>>96767332
You don't really need a basic kit if you already have paints, the GW paints you do have should tide you over as you replace the colors you need with new ones gradually. Unless you wanna just hard swap, but that can be expensive and only do it if you wanna.

>>96764780
>airbrushing lacquer is massively different than acrylic as well
can you explain how this would cause stylistic differences? the one thing I can think of is the attention span it requires. with airbrushing you need to budget enough time to at least do a single color for the entire kit or it's a waste of getting everything ready, but with brush painting you can work for 15 minutes or 5 hours and it doesn't make much difference.

>people who just want their center piece of an army to look good from 5ft away is much different than someone that wants it to look good on close inspection for photographs or tournaments.
there was this guy from a previous thread
>>96718948
calling it "slap chop" or only wanting it to look good from 5 feet away isn't giving the paint job enough credit.

>>96765308
what part isn't true? in the last 3 or 4 threads I've seen
>people who don't want to drill their barrels
>a guy saying using an airbrush is cheating
>a guy struggling with an acrylic wash because he didn't have an enamel or oil one
>lots of talking about painting techniques like layering and blending
I would say this is representative of the modelling discussion I've seen in the 40k thread too.

>>96718948
Anon should strip the head and remake those eye lenses, doesnt read as osl at all, just dirty red around them. puts down an otherwise fantastic paintjob

>>96767332
Buy whatever you can get locally so you can buy the ones you need. Sticking to one paint brand is a meme, every range has their good and their bad performing paints. Paint bottles have just as many problems as paint pots do, just different. A gw paint pot never erupted paint like a volcano.

>>96767473
Ain't no local stores here. Gotta buy everything online and the miniature sellers here still believe that Fax is the best way to order.

>>96767111
>no repulsor
Might have to get one eventually, they're just too strong for BTs to pass on. But if I do, I'd like to put some proper tracks on it, I think they'd significantly improve its aesthetics; I don't like the whole anti-gravitic system.
Anyway, here's a LR.

>>96767620
I hate whoever decided that the main focus on primaris vehicles should be grav plates and rollcages everywhere.

>>96767473
>Paint bottles have just as many problems as paint pots do
you were being reasonable until this retardation. there are some garbage bottles (vallejo) but they're not as inherently dogshit as pots.

>>96767620
star wars land speeders are cool, the repulsor is cool

nearly done

Nobody reposted it itt:

>2025
aHR0cHM6Ly9mb3Jtcy5nbGUvemZxWjNGRDZIOXF2bVF5WDc=

Base64

Primed today. I'm priming the heads separately

>>96767620
looks great

>>96767802
damn, that's an intense model.

>>96767788
That just shows how many anons are not interested in recieving jizz cookies.

trying too hard

Update on the sipahis. I think the gold parts stand out better now, but I don't really like working with the Vallejo gold paint I used. What would you recommend as a substitute?

>>96751310
I feel you anon, getting a dedicated Ikea desk (MITTPLAN) did help me.

>>96768066
Yup, just needs a wash now.

>>96768066
gold is fine it just needs a wash but that metal is so chalky and grainy
my advice is never drybrush silver straight over black wash

>>96765530
I actually have your (unpainted) model saved in my inspo folder, i think we both did a conversion of him into a chaplain at the same time

>>96767802
Seeing your quick progress on such a cool model motivated me to stop procrastinating.

>You seem distracted, lieutenant, is something wrong?

Also, I straightened the spears under heat but they bent back again after a while. Now with primer and paint, there is nothing that could be done right?

>>96768342
its not that bad they could be really droopy but now you notice it from few angles at most
you could give her some hairdyer treatment and some overbending but i think its fine as is now

>>96768207
I got the itch. The momentum. Keep up your motivation when you have it.

>be me with low level greenstuff skills
>this can't be too hard. I'll make it look like chaos corruption
>burned easily 5-6 hours on fixing the two heads
>how noticeable will this be, can I hide it with paint later, will this be a problem later

>>96767644
>>96767654
I feel like their general aesthetics are strictly related to the awkward tacticool, modernized design GW tried to push with their first wave of primaris, when we got all those phobos troops variants, the ridiculous dual wielding jumping gravis, the atv etc.

They all looked awful, and I think GW realized that too, as they started backtracking and the newer primaris stuff dropped that silliness and resembles more their firstborn counterparts in style, ex the newer BT, DA, SW kits

>>96767802
Thanks, curious to see how that'll look like once it's done, lot of potential for a creepy model

>>96768158
Based, now show off yours!

>>96768644
Sure thing

>>96768644
I'm going with the classic colors. I have a beige colors Tyranid army so I dont want to do a >>96761387 style dragon.

This is a variation of the original color scheme but I dislike the blue and reds here: http://www.sodemons.com/rhdragons/16forgeworld/02emperordragon/index.htm

I've attached a photo of the "inspiration" paint scheme.

I like a few things about it. The white face looks really nice. The wings look easy to do. The red vs blue is much better than the other color choices that I've seen people choose. With the torn flesh - there are a lot of ways to take the scheme. The red will be painted in an extremely basic way. It's going to be airbrushed red, hit with a black wash and then highlighted up a bit before getting a paint on gloss coat. The nails/teeth/bone are the easiest and will be completed last. I might do a purple for the tongues and have it fade into pink.

I'm so ready to do this lets fucking gooooooooo

>>96768694
i remember fiddling the og pewter model around at lgs and would suggest the good old `eavy metal scheme
also i like your beige nids
t. pink nids anon

>>96768739
Yeah this is very good contrast work (not the technical paint, you get my point).

>>96768748
Thank you. I painted that metal model in high school, which then inspired me to purchase a cast of the big FW Galrauch.

I actually just went through the few lore videos about him and watched a Total War chaos dragon video. I've always liked him over the Warriors Chaos obsession with shitty tier big beasts and mounts. Chimeras and Archaon's current mount look terrible. I should start basecoating tonight.

Progress on Dragoons, after washes. Sepia wash over steel mixed with brass gives fun effect.

>>96768739
hive fleet behemoth dragon

>>96768805
metal looks kind of dull but that works with the red and the vibrant skin tone

>>96768805
what game is this for?

>>96768860
>game

>>96768860
Eldfall Chronicles, KS backed but now normally available.

>>96768793
>Chimeras and Archaon's current mount look terrible
same not a fan myself, keep it simple imho
good luck anon

Finished my rider now, supposed to be Conrad of Montferrat. Participated in the third crusade, showed considerable talent and leadership, quarreled with Richard and Philip, elected as the new king of Jerusalem and was promptly assassinated by the assassin cult on his way home from a dinner party.

Does /wip/ have any tips on the best way of applying matte varnish to completely dull gloss varnish (Vallejo)? I still have places shining through several layers of AK-Interactive's Ultra-matte varnish. I try applying thin coats to avoid pooling that dries ugly.

>>96768664
Oops forgot to post it earlier but here it is finished with the rest of my chaplains

>>96769128
but the best part is scraping them clean and washing them and putting them together all nice
after that comes the tedious part of actually having to paint them

>>96761387
Is there an archive of all the old FW models anywhere? I remember browsing that site as a kid, looking at all the cool shit i would buy as an adult but by the time i had money they were all gone

>>96769295
lmao same here. And seconding this question.

>>96769185
Sure, she's kawaii but procrastination-chan is a total slut

does anyone has the Grimdark Compendium Nightlords Episode 1-4 and is willing to share?
I really want to know how this dude makes his hair.

>>96769308
>>96769295
check http://www.sodemons.com/rhgallery/index.htm

Finished my war despot. Absolutely loving painting these guys.
To the anons that suggested gem colors, I went ahead and stuck with green. The red and green gems turned out way too Christmas-y

>>96769540
Am I retarded, or is there no Forgeworld stuff at all?

>>96769581
Oh whoops - so I linked a cache of a specific blogged that worked on models from that era. Thats more of a "classical citadel range"

Try these two links:

https://web.archive.org/web/20081201000000*/www.forgeworld.com

https://whfb.lexicanum.com/wiki/Category:Forgeworld_miniatures

Trying to do some ruined village basing, sometimes hard cuz the models have dirt and rocks sculpted on

>>96765530
>>96768158
What is up with people using that torso for chaplains? This is the second one I see here.

>>96770135
Torso has what looks like a stylized ribcage on it, and a skull in the middle. Perfect fit for a chaplain

>>96769181
holy shit dude you're my hero

>>96770135
The base model is a librarian in terminator armour from the leviathan box, lot of people converted it into something else, mainly chaplains because the GW model for chaplain is kinda meh

>>96756617
Scale75 has been dying for a while, their CEO talked about it at one point. Nonstop kickstarter campaigns, using the new ones to pay for production of their old ones, not a good look.

Is Monument the only seemingly thriving hobby paint company?

>>96770770
Pretty sure Duncan is doing well as the superior and direct alternative to GW paint.

what type of brown should I use to make this color for my carapace?
should I mix Rhinox hide with a bit or maroon or just use Rhinox hide by it self?

>>96770931
Rhinox hide is always the answer. Very nice paint.

I've seen a few different methods for doing cobblestone. What's your preferred method if you've done it? Using spackle seems to be the easiest. Sprue or plasticard seem like exercises in madness.

love me war walkers

MYEH. Anyone wants to be the marine helmet on his backpack?

>>96750857 (OP)
Dumb question, but what should I be using to cut off chunks of greenstuff from the roll? Unwrapping the thin plastic first to use a paint scraper or a wire (like for clay) feels counter intuitive since the A and B compounds are wrapped up together, but using an old straight-edged pocket knife to shear that shit against a cutting board also doesn't feel quite right.

>>96771911
I don't know about what you should be doing, but I always used some manicure scissors or my hobby knife.

>>96736889
Some progress on the captain. Reposed the arms as anon requested and letting the first layer of putty cure.

>>96771028
cobblestone looks great with a roller

plasticard is madness

>>96770135
You can't run the librarian in Black Templars so it's good conversion fodder for a chaplain if you bought the leviathan box.
I assume that's why the other BT anon did it too.
Also it's just a cool and dynamic pose

>>96772276
That completely slippedy mind. Yeah, perfect reason for BT to convert it to a chaplain.

>>96771028
>plasticard seem like exercises in madness
How so? You may have to hide some gabs, but it's pretty easy to just glue it down and paint it.
>pic related
When you look for products look for 1:50 architectural scale stuff. Most stuff is for model trains in h0 which is 1:87. That can work, for small areas like bases but larger surfaces end up with repeating patterns and look too uniform.
For bases I've carved cobblestones and even mosaics into milliput and it works well. Would not recommend doing that for scenery or a table either though, even when using plaster.

You can make a mold and cast your own textured plates though if you want something more 3d. If you are fine with using plaster you just need some plasticine, flatten that out and stamp the stoned in there with a square stamp or something. You may have to redo the mold over and over, but it's lowtech and very cheap. Don't even need to bother with silicone.

How is this Golden Mapple wet palette?

>>96772625
Tupperware container, a kitchen sponge and a roll of baking paper is all you need for a wet palette. Those branded ones are just a ripoff for idiots with more money than sense, pure and simple.

>>96772632
You totally can make a wet palette like this, but you are not an idiot for buying something nice and purpose made for yourself. You'll be spending (hopefully) hundreds of hours using it. So getting a nice one is like giving yourself a little present. Nothing wrong with that.

>>96772657
Don't bother replying, that fag is a literal schizo that thinks he's a genius for saving 5 bucks by making a dyi one

>>96772632
NTA, but meh. The branded ones ARE nicer and shallower walled than tupperware, and it's not like they're generally pricey (idk about that one).
I will say though, I ran out of armypainter pre-cut papers recently and just went back to using cooking parchment paper, and I like it waaaaay more than the army painter branded paper. The army painter paper soaked up way too much water and split my paints really badly (a notable problem with PA generally though). to the point where I wonder if the parchment paper is just waterproof, but either way it seems to work better than just a flat palette or the branded paper.

im not a big fan of this knick knack and gadget culture
all of a sudden you need all these expensive and useless things to do a thing you already had no problem doing before
then some people just gear up and never do anything because its just cool to collect these hobby accessories i guess

>>96772657
>>96772668
Sounds like cope of an easy mark.

>>96771028
cutting individual bricks always looks better and gives you more freedom
you don't need plasticard (and it's too hard), you can use something softer easier to work with, like foamed pvc or something you can hotwire cut like xps foam if you need thousands

see >>96735735 >>96736420

picrel is foamed pvc

>>96772715
post your craft sloppa again

>>96772717
oh yeah, that's the stuff anon post more

>>96769181
Amazing.
I'm sure I sent you a couple of those as Secret Santa gifts, you've done them proud!

>>96772730
i made some squared based ones too but don't have a pic of them
heres a wip of those being used

>>96772730
>>96772779
and the finished set before the snow

>>96772779
>>96772779
I came.

>>96772833
look what you did

>>96772766
It might have been you that started it.
I was sent this man and a note that contained the phrase "you can never have too many Chaplains" and now I just might have too many. If it was, thank you. You ruined my life.
>>96770662
Thank you!

new since we're on page 10 and baker-san doesn't seem to be around
>>96772989
>>96772989
>>96772989

>>96772786
Awesome