Hardships and Hard Ships edition

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previous thread: >>11443546

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect (except Lindberg) or awful (except Lindberg). ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/156268995@N04/albums

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)
https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)
https://m-zone.pl (PL only)

>>11469963
camo is really good, sponge layered?

>>11470036
I was pretty happy with the digital flora as well. I have a fucked up brush with very stiff and split bristles, I used that for the dotting and it worked wonderfully. Started with a dark green base, stippled on a few shades of brighter green and then a bit of brown.

If there are enough GK fags in this thread we can establish some ground. Don’t think you’d get much discussion on /a/ talking about the technicals.

>>11470249
Meant for
>>11469226
Damn sideways pic, sorry I’m phoneposting

Probably a stupid question but for this Tamiya Panther Ausf A upgrade, I have photoetch vent mesh covers that go over the existing engine ventilation vents on the back. Should I prime the existing vents with my base color (dunkelgelb/dark yellow), attach the vents, and then prime on top of those, or go ahead and just attach the vent covers before priming? When the time comes for weathering these will likely be blackened areas that render this problem moot, but I just felt like getting other people's opinions on the best course of action.

>>11470105
Except I am the opposite of Plasmo when it comes to modelling. I have just acquired an airbrush full Harbor Freight and will use it for the kit that I am currently working on.

>>11470249
Do full-scratch figgers count

How often do people make wood ships from scratch? I’ve been wanting to get into ship building but when I check videos it looks like most people some amount of kits? Or they cut all the wood beforehand and don’t show it.

Are there kits that give a base to the boat and let you plank it?

>>11471877
>How often do people make wood ships from scratch?
Very often, I would say at least 3 a day in the USA.

They're are mostly made of balsa wood pieces:

https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/balsa-wood/

Or you can search for balsa wood model kits.

>>11471892
>>11471877
Also, https://www.building-model-boats.com/wood-ship-models.html

>gets really humid outside
>try to use airbrush
>its just constantly spitting out water, moisture trap seemingly doing nothing
>can't paint anymore
im gonna kill myself!!

>>11469979 (OP)
What's a good scale to build ships and planes?
Currently build 1/35 tanks

>>11472463
not 1/35

>>11470249
where does one acquire that darjeeling

>>11472463
Planes are best in 1/72, they are cheap and decently large in this site. Ships friend on the subject, smaller ones are best since in 1/72, while battleships are best done in 1/350 and aircraft carriers are best in 1/700 or 1/720.

As a footnote, other scares are good too, but sick with the ones above for a first kit as building them as they are often the most beginner friendly. What, do not do sailing ships until you are comfortable with rigging.

stop building 1/35

>>11472646
>>11472464
Why not 1/35? thats all they got at the local store in mid town here.
>>11472561
Uboats or submarines?

>>11471877
Read pic related and terrify yourself.
Anyhow, its top tier stuff to pull off but certainly people do, there is a market in blueprints for that purpose. Like most elder gods they tend to move in more rarified circles.
https://modelland.co.uk/

>>11472654
I meant not 1/35 ships and planes you doofus. Unless you live in like an abandoned airfield with hangars or something.

>>11472654
I would stick to 1/700 and 1/720, but it depends on the kind of submarine and the size of the real one. The true answer is that it depends going from subject to subject, but I think that aircraft are easier than ships in general, so I would suggest getting something like an Airfix 1/72 Spitfire, Hurricane or Bf-109. You can practice rigging on these as see require a communications cable, which is easy to do.

>>11472509
Volks Charagumin 1/7 Darjeeling Garage kit. Have to import from Japan unfortunately and the prices seem to keep going up. Only can find a few on eBay and they're in the $100+ range.

I was in Akihabara awhile back and made sure to grab my next one, the Katyusha and Nonna, for a decent price.

>>11472754
nah just got a little room here.
>>11472777
local store does have 1/32 and 1/48 planes. Ships they offer 1/700 and 1/350. They even have that 1/48 Uboat.

>>11472827
Send send pictures over.

>>11472646
what an absolute shit opinion

>>11472825
fug might have to bother jp people to go to aki or just buy a recast
what's your skin recipe?

>>11472561
Are you having a stroke?

>>11472836
I was at the Laundromat and was using my phone at the time. I cannot hit the right buttons, but now since I am on the computer I can type just fine. I miss physical phone keyboards.

>>11472836
Yea Volks hobby paradise in Akihabara had a great selection.

I don't know what Volks is doing with their USA branch and why you can't get these kits on their US website. I would think GuP is popular enough.

I've been using Mr Hobby Lascivus CL01 with Mr Hobby CL07 for preshading and rosier skin, but it can be overpowering and I basically used none on this because GuP characters are pretty pale. Then CL03 top coat to rose up some areas like cheeks and around knees. On this figure I let the paint keep its natural gloss, but if it's too much I'll use some VMS satin varnish to mute the skin glossiness.

weeb cringe

This might be a retarded question, but can Tamiya's XF acrylic paints be mixed with their LP lacquer paints since their XF paints can be thinned with lacquer thinner?

>>11473915
Yes

So I'm looking at getting into wooden ship models, but I have nfi where to start

The only two brands I can see being sold by my go-to hobby shop are Artensia, and Occre, are they decent?

What kind of tools do I need? am I gonna have to varnish and finish the wood with these or do anything with the actual bits themselves? also am I right to assume that I'm gonna have to learn how to make rope out of threads to do all the rigging ?

>>11474268
I'm curious about this also. surely you'd start with a simple boat, with 0-1 sails and in a larger scale

I surveyed my reference folder for ukrainian Abrams tanks and didn't find any tanks with cope cages, kontakt 1, but without tusk kits
Does anyone have images of such tanks?

Speaking of wood, I have a Dumas Citabria in the stash. Should I start working on it? The goal is to eventually get a 1/7 Aeronca Champ from Dare Design and build that for 4 channel RC.

I also promised a guy to prepare a Tri-Pacer for him that will be anywhere between 1/10 and 1/4 scale. I took a software course just for this, I just need to practice building with expanded foam, as that is what he wants his to be made out of (I want a Tri-Pacer too, which is why I agreed). Anyone else interested in scale RC CAD files, plus some links for custom foam cutters?

Speaking of Tri-Pacers, any opinions on the Monogram kit in 1/32?
>inb4 >Monogram

Sorry for the long post, I just have not contributed since my 1/24 RC Dr.I

>>11474268
I don't think brand matters that much, it seems like every kit involves the same amount of work, sanding frames, trimming planks etc...
Will probably need lots of sandpaper, small nails, tons of clamps and rubber bands, steam bender, probably some drills. There are companies that make scale ropes, I think one is simply RopesOfScale or somethin.

Buy some books written by autistic boomers, maybe watch some Ola Batchvarov on youtube. I've got a 1/64 model shipways Niagara that I havent had the balls to start, but some day I'll get there.

Got a question for all the 3D printer fags out there: is it true that PLA doesn't require priming to paint? I painted two test pieces, one with and one without primer, but didn't have the time to apply multiple coats and a varnish so it ain't really a good test. I also have the same question but for resin prints, a friend of mine's gonna buy a resin printer and I'm hoping this means I'll get dirt cheap minis for life.

>>11470249
I'm pretty sure that GKs would find a better home in the Gunpla/Plamo thread than here. These threads have too many resident faggots.

>>11474893
Priming is just a good rule of thumb. It's designed to help paint adhere to a surface. You may be able to paint just fine with out, but you may run into problems with an inconsistent surface.

>>11474893
I have a resin printer and prime all of my prints with mr hobby 1500 because the surfaces are wicked smooth if you have a nice printer and it makes painting way easier
it also can help cover over small layer lines and voids/support marks if you have any

>>11474943
>but you may run into problems with an inconsistent surface
>>11474971
>it also can help cover over small layer lines and voids/support marks if you have any
I'll be honest, I wasn't even thinking of covering print lines yet. I just took a random print and painted it, nothing too fancy. I figured in the future that I could get away with sanding the print lines away but I honestly never tried that. Also resin printers shouldn't leave any lines, right? Planning on using resin for minis and PLA for big pieces like terrain, hopefully I don't have to sand a delicate mini.

>>11474911
gunpla has more resident faggots and browns who can't even paint which is required for GKs, wtf you talking about?

its ok

man, I thought I had the materials to build cope cages and I do, but for 1/35
all the 1mm profiles are too thick for 48 scale and I lost my .5mm plastic sheet

>>11475637
Buy a new sheet then.

hi guys I need some help with panel line colors.
this obviously looks horrible. I had to use like 6 layers of white on the underside of this plane. now all the panel lines are almost non existent and when I use my panel line accent color it results in a mess like this. what do I do here? the white is water based paint but the panel line color is oil.

>>11475990
just get some mineral spirits and wipe it off, in the direction of airflow. it'll look really nice after!!

>>11475998
wont this remove the white paint as well?? I only have normal paint thinner right now

>>11476003
just made sure on my own model in progress, mineral spirits on a cotton swab did NOT remove any of the water based vallejo paint I used in that area.
in the future though, you should put on a clear coat before you do any sort of weathering just in case!

>>11476008
oh cool. the white I used was also vallejo paint. its only my third model so Im still learning. so I cant use normal paint thinner to get rid of the panel line colors?

>>11476011
It depends on the brand and kind of paint thinner I think, but I wouldn't risk it. I've got some pretty old Testors paint thinner that I think wouldn't touch water based paints, but I'm not for sure because I don't use that stuff anymore. You can get mineral spirits at any hardware store.

>>11476016
ok so I have checked. I have the revell color mix paint thinner. it says "for thinning of enamel, oil and synthetic paints"

so it means its safe to use?

>>11476023
test it somewhere less conspicuous first, but you're probably ok

I picked up a Tamiya 1/48 P-51D yesterday. What should I do first since its my first plane to begin with?

>>11476027
ok I tested it and it works. but I think the problem now is that the panel lines on this model are just not very deep. i tested it on the top of the plane where I have only used 2 layers of paint and the panel line accent color just doesnt really get into there. when I use the paint thinner I remove most of the panel line color and Im at zero progress again lol

Should I try letting an AI pick out a kit for me?

>>11476041
The first thing I do when I get a new kit is to open the box

>>11476041
my first step for a kit regardless of subject is to go through and label the paint codes in the instructions, especially if its a tamiya kit because I dont fuckin know the X/XF codes
then you just build it in the order of instructions typically

>>11476285
thanks
>>11476318
fair enough
One other thing to ask is has anyone used Photo etched parts from "Eduard" on any of their builds?

>>11476383
I'm now on my second kit using eduard PE parts and I'm starting to realize how little it feels worth it to me. its a lot of hassle for tiny little details I wouldn't ever really notice anyways

>>11475726
I will this weekend
Until then I won't be able to relax by making infuriatingly rickety constructs that fall apart and raise my blood pressure after work

>>11476383
>One other thing to ask is has anyone used Photo etched parts from "Eduard" on any of their builds?
I just did a "profipack" in 1/72. the pre-painted cockpit PE looks kind of cool if I take a look inside, except the seatbelts which are a bit chunky. it also has some parts for the engine and the ordnance under the wings. can't see shit, and I skipped a bunch of it because it's a hassle
I'll consider fancy replacement parts in future if it's for more prominent things

>>11476285
Which is actually the best part. After that I close the box and put it away to the others.

>>11476383
Eduard has the easiest/simplest aftermarket PE out of all I've used.

After getting the only sprue of 1/48 scale K1 in the local store, I'm afraid the 120 pieces may not be enough to cover the Abrams
Fortunately, I stumbled upon an STL file and have a buddy with a 3d printer

>>11471066
Krupinski!

whats a good applicator for liquid mask? I tried using a brush but couldnt get it all out of the bristles and the brush is basically ruined now

>>11478444
I like using a toothpick for applying it and lifting the edge up before pulling the rest off with bluetack when i'm done

>>11478444
I use an old and crap brush, but I clean it in water after every stroke
It's tedious, but the brush is not ruined to the point of uselessness

the end is in sight, finally

>>11478591
Well done! That's looking really good man. Looks really cleanly painted.

>>11475990
Main problem is here that due to the thick layer of paint, your panel lines are too shallow. So when you wipe that off not much will be held in the recess. There is not much you can do now. If you have shallow or soft panel lines, you can deepen them with a plastic scriber before painting. If only little wahs is left after cleaning up you can try and draw the lines with a sharp pencil. Also when doing a wash like that it is always good to do it on a gloss surface, then it doesn't blur so much on the edges and cleans up more easily.

>>11476011
If you use acrylics like vallejo, normal universal thinner or mineral spirits will not dissolve the paint. Alcohol will.

Anybody here work with AK Interactive Acrylics?
What's a good grey paint that is essentially a good neutral gray but without the bluish tint?
I'm looking at the AFV and AIR range in particular. Should be something from those two lines.

>>11479286
>good neutral gray
Light - AK11010 (Medium Gray)
Medium - AK11021 (Basalt Gray)
Dark - AK11025 (German Gray)

If you want it warmer, just mix in a bit of something like AK11114 (Deck Tan)

>AFV and AIR range in particular
Tough shit

Hey, babby's first cope cage came out great
Wish I had smaller profiles

>>11479602
looks more like a cope wall than a cope cage

and there it is. I had eduard PE gun sights but almost immediately knocked them off into the carpet and lost them forever, so rip bozo. I have one more Revell kit (BF-110 1/48) and I really hope that ones not as bad. That one will certainly be my last revell aircraft, but their cars are at least pretty decent still


happy 4th americans dont blow your fingers off you need nose

What primer/surfacer do you recommend using on resin kits?

>>11479754
any primer should be fine. I used the same mr surfacer 1500 black on the aftermarket resin parts of the p-40 that I did on everything else

>>11479757
What about clear resin, do you use a clear varnish or something else?

>>11479765
that I'm not sure on since I've never used clear resin parts. if it were like a cockpit canopy's frame or something I'd say you can just use the same primer still

>>11479737
Uggo pre-shading.

couldnt contain myself and glossed so hard all over the model
Hides the touch up brush marks for the camo. Decals down and a stain coat to cum tomorrow.

>>11480070
>satin coat
wtf is wrong wit me.
Tools and other fun stuff under the tranny hood

>>11480073
Satin is the way. Makes it look like metal. Uniform flatcoat is an aestheticism for terminally online homos. It looks especially fake and gay if you have very large models like 1/16 tanks. At that size you should have different surfaces (satin paint vs. dull tires or dull dust and dry mud aso.). The overall flatcoat is just lazy.

>>11480676
it's also the superior surface for weathering, no oil paints staining and not blending and shit

>>11480697
That goes without saying.

Despite bending the needle of my airbrush into a loop and then straightening it out with pliers, the airbrush has delivered very tight spray
Now I just have to wait for it to dry up to apply the black paint
Best €40 I have ever spent

>>11480727
And now the camouflage is done
Now I can focus on the cope cages and ERA

I think it's just too hot right now for me to do any modeling.

>>11480844
back to work faggot, no excuses

>>11480844
I finished up some building last night during all the fireworks going off in or around my neighborhood even staying up late to do some painting.
Picked up some paint for my P-51

>>11480844
Girly-men belong on the gundam thread.

>>11480844
but hot is the best time to do any modeling because the solvents dry faster

>>11469979 (OP)
started on this small diorama scene. will be a improvised checkpoint. think i'll oder figures from an ebay seller named Kamiya, which is not instilling trust

>>11481645
>>11481645
did the armory 1/144 bf109 earlier, which was an overall unpleasant experience with a lot of fuckups. question: how do i keep oil washes in faint panel lines? either i use very little solvent and the entire model looks dirty but when i use more i clean out the wash too. i cheated here and used the excess wash as streaking

>>11481653
Nice work
If you were to build another 1/144 109, and you were given the choice between Armory, Beacon, Mark I or Zvezda, which one would you pick?

>>11470249
>>11470253
:)
waiting on my 1:20th dirty pair kit

Applying individual bricks is very tedious

What primer do you recommend for ABS? I just got a 1/350 scale ship, and it contains parts made of ABS.

>>11481741
i've only built an armory bf109 and la15 so far so i can't compare. both required extensive fitting with which i have little experience. prop assembly was rather wonky too but the decal and variant options included are nice.

>>11481881
Good to know. I am leaning towards getting the Mark I, but it depends on how the one that I have builds up.

>>11480073
Can't remember if I shared my latest. Will finish one other thing and then get to this piece of shit.

>>11481946
neato. yea this wasn't the funnest of builds, upper to lower hull wasnt a good fit, same for the engine. I just did a pin wash on mine, maybe an oil dot filter tomorrow

>>11481760
nice work so far. although be very careful. , I see you have some of that ammo rust wash laying on your keyboard. the seal on those are kinda iffy and I've had more than a few of em leak on me.

If I pull that era off, will you die?
>>11482265
Yea, the seals are very shit, my hand got covered in nato wash when shaking it

God bless Ukraine

>>11482323
is that the actual box art?

>>11482342
NTA but yes, it is. It's strelets, this is how they do it. I'm trying to find some sprue shots of this set because there's a fair chance they might be half-decent if they're like their other IJA figures.

>>11482357
There isn't a review for that specific set yet, but looking at the other ones, they're ehh at best.
https://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=1778

Now don't get me wrong, the pickings for 1/72 figures are pretty slim as it is, so anything remotely decent will probably suffice unless you can 3D print some better ones (and even then the selection for good 3d models isn't much better).

>>11482323
same energy

>>11482376
hey, I was looking for that picture

>>11482376
Is this a real WW2 photo?

>>11482376
My first thought as well

>>11482358
I can do CAD, but human forms are hard to do. I am going to be off of Uni after Thursday, so I might create some figures.

does anyone have better references for M1 sights, especially the commander and the auxiliary sight
I don't believe they are this red all the time

>>11482466
that's the polarized coating I believe, try covering the sights with rainbow plastic and see what it looks like

>>11482482
Well, too much effort for something that will be covered by a cope cage
Used some army painter fantasy metallics for that

>>11482466
I believe they have a laser filter. Laser rangefinders, especially older designs are not eye safe.

>>11481926
post some pictures when building if you can. they have a number of 144 planes i am thinking about getting

Man, any idea how to paint the kinda pinkish manganese steel?

>>11482660
Forgot pic.

>>11482358
Could be a lot worse, lel
https://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=2579

The upside is that while 1/72 and 1/76 figures generally look like ass individually, being small and formed into mass swarms covers many sins. I can live with a fair bit of Ukrainian jank, but I definitely want to see sprue shots first and not buy blind.

>>11481645
for anyone interested, painting woodgrain on a 0.5mm brass rod is not practical. on the plus side the aluminium paint chips turned out better than expected

>>11482824
of course i forgot the picture

>>11482391
yes

>>11481743
Nice, I’ve been meaning to try one of those Hasegawa bishoujo kits. Just never pulled the trigger yet, not really my scale.

>>11482662
tamiya jgsdf brown

>>11482969
I really got into 1/20th scale ever since I started building ma.k. it makes sense the gk are typically on the larger scale size but these little figures are really fun to paint.

>>11482611
Will do, but this kit is last of their 1/720 airship line. Seeing that all of their toolings are done in house, I would expect a similar quality from most of their kits. I probably will start it on Thursday, as I have she stuff to do later today and tomorrow.

Only a little remains
Despite the side panels being only estimated instead of measured, they fit quite nicely
Still bugs me that the profiles are so thick

>>11482500
Why is your paintjob so grainy?

>trying to attach resin flap kit to tamiya me-262
>want to die, losing interest in modeling (again)

Has this happened to anyone else? I have such a hard time balancing the desire to add as much detail and historical accuracy to my models as possible and the desire to actually work on kits/finish builds I just get overwhelmed and quit.

>>11484160
I lose interest as soon as something guess sideways, which unfortunately happens an if the time. Build one kit or of the box, then do a super-detailed build would be my advice.

I really want one dudes, the only kits available are all 3D printed and I've never worked with a 3D printed kit. anyone know how these hold up to regular kits?

>>11484160
>>11484243
Happens all the fucking time it ends up being a cycle

>Work on kit, scratch build and add detail to make it accurate
>Eventually get burnt out and put it away
>Find a new kit
>Work on kit, scratch build and add detail to make it accurate
>Eventually get burnt out and put it away
>Rinse and repeat
I have at least 20 WIP kits in various stages out of my 200+ stash because of this. There is one way I break the cycle sometimes but if I even mention it in this thread I might get crucified,

>>11484247
I expect it to be just like a resin kit where you have to sand everything down and super glue it together

>>11484247
You are going to have to deal with supports which you would need to remove carefully and cleanly, or you would have to deal with ugly pits/dents all over your kit. 3D print UV resin is brittler than plastic and behaves more like glass when you cut it. So, best of luck.

>>11484299
Also, you might see a lot of really tiny details printed in place (which with plastic kits you normally add later with photoetch), so be careful when handling the parts.

>>11484303
His kit doesn't have any fragile bits but based on this review, the finish is kind of rough and flat parts may be warped.
>https://forums.kitmaker.net/t/peugeot-char-d-assault-c-2-by-vargas/35506

>>11484311
>the finish is kind of rough and flat parts may be warped
That sounds like whoever designed that kit does not know what they are doing.
Properly supported parts don't warp and modern resin printers with 5 micron layers shouldn't produce visible layer lines.

>>11484299
that's what puts me off, I feel like I would break something. wish it was in plastic

>>11484375
>Properly supported parts don't warp
They very much do. Depends on the thickness of the parts, the thinner the part and the larger the surface, the bigger the chance of warping. Also depends on how the UV curing after cleaning was or was not done.
The biggest problem with these 3D printed kits is that for good results you should remove the supports first and then do the full curing of the model parts. But they clean and cook the models which makes all the supports super strong and leave marks all over. I can pretty much peel my details off the supports after washing and leaving them in hot water for a minute.

putting the tracks and wheels on made me want to kms. I actually had the screw gun out to try and drill out the sprocket mount, fuck. And then trying to jam everything on, surprised I didn't break more things. I think my next builds gonna be wheels or metal links

>>11484949
Did you do the horribad Trumpeter track links? I just 3D printed replacement tracks. I guess the work was about the same as I had to redrill every link, but fuck building that shit link by link from 3 parts with ejector pin marks and mold lines.

>>11485019
I did use trumpys kit supplied tracks, but they were link and length. I have another variant of this thing, the gopher, and it has those 3 piece tracks that I took one look at and put the box away. Putting these together wasnt bad at all, its just trying to fit them to the completed model with the sprocket and idler in the tracks. I broke the links twice, put them on backwards once, just no shortage of retardation.

>>11484160
I'm really losing the appeal with aftermarket shit desu
>see this perfectly fine kit part? Well here's a photoetch version that's thinner, takes longer to assemble and has just as much detail as the original

question for landships modelling anon:

I was thinking of getting into the business of designing 3D models, printing them and shipping the finished product.
I would entirely focus of ultra-common post-ww2 civilian cars, all in 1/35 scale.
They would go really well in military dioramas or even just as standalone models. They would give sense of scale when placed next to military subjects, and they would offer much needed respite from the usual military subjects that constitute the armor modeller's main interest (I think people need that once in a while, otherwise stuff like the pancake train in 1/35 from AK would never sell. Also their vans and off-road vehicle are selling like hot cake.).
Moreover, many would like to have their own car, or a car they're incredibly familiar with, in their collection, ideally next to all these armored war machines they've never seen IRL.
I was thinking of designing these cars with decently detailed exteriors, simplified interiors, and a flat underside, some decals included but no photoetch.

It's an untapped market niche. Nobody makes post-ww2 civilian cars in 1/35, either in plastic or resin. And I think many people would buy them.

Your opinions?

>>11485401
Forgot to say:
You can already find detailed 3d models of most ultra-common cars online, even though they aren't made for printing.
Can I easily skip some steps if I start from these models instead of starting from scratch?

>1/35
dropped

>>11485401
NTA, but I think it's an untapped niche for a reason
Boomers love their cars and they will definitely get a model of their car if they could, but vehicle manufacturers are very protective of their brands and you may face legal trouble
I assume this is the reason why nobody actually makes 1/35 g wagens and why takom released neat, but unbranded cars

>>11485226
I'm going through the same shit. I thought it would be so cool to have a realistic and detailed model so I bought a bunch of aftermarket parts.
>go to build a kit with said aftermarket parts
>hardly enjoy it because everything is so fiddly

I saw an Aerobase kit in a shop for half price. Should I get it? The kit is the 1/1000 Graf Zeppelin.

>>11485535
It makes sense, I didn't think of that. Maybe I'll release unbranded cars as well, I'll even erase the logo. Or maybe I'll sell in person at fairs exclusively

will a flat varnish take away the shiny from the tamiya ts spray?

>>11485809
yes retard

>>11485837
will a shiny varnish make it more shiny?

Fuck wh*te paint and fuck wh*te people
Streaking and dusting next

>>11485861
Hard to say, depends a ton on the varnish. What will make it more shiny is a good 2K clear and polishing it boomer style as if it was a car

>>11485869
post hands

>>11485401
What are your expectations? Just a side hustle for fun, or a small business that can sustain you?
If the former, there's no harm in jumping right in and seeing what happens. But if you're aiming for something more serious I think it needs a bit more thought.

Do you have a rough idea of how long it would take to print, clean and cure a kit? This will determine the price, and from there you can figure how many you would have to sell to sustain yourself. If you can only print 20 kits a month and need $2k/month to survive, well then each kit is going for $100. Now you have to attack it from the other side. Is there enough demand to sustain that rate? This is much harder to figure. When doing the ST-26 bridgelayer I worked backwards from retail pricing to distributor pricing to likely factory direct cost. I estimated tooling costs at between 500k - 1mil, and from there figured that Hobbyboss needs to churn out 20-40,000 T-26s to break even. With all those potential customers out there I've still only sold like 30 kits out of 100.

Personally, I think level of effort and high prices make printing and selling challenging to break into. Model Monkey and Vargas seem to have done it though. That's why I went with the low cost digital route. I believe it's a better value for the consumer, and my break even point on each model is typically around 1000 purchases which I think is a conservative estimate of the total market out there.

>>11485412
Its likely anything you find online is not for commercial use, and even if it were, you're likely getting an stl file which will be hell to edit. There are no shortcuts, if you want to ensure quality youre gonna have to do it yourself.

looking good so far. now on to the pe parts

andddd done
I have more shots, but the lighting wasn't great, oh well.

I'm looking for a spray can matte clear coat that won't eat acrylic paint. I was going to get tamiya ts-80 but then on some sites it says that it may harm acrylic paint and on other sites it's considered safe to use. Could anyone recommend me a good spray clear coat that won't destroy my paintjob?

>>11486293
I have a can of both krylon matte clear coat and mr. hobby matte clear coat that I've used on everything from acrylics, oils, lacquer, to enamels and I've never had any issues with it damaging the paint job.
I'm not sure how it would react if you sprayed a satin or gloss clear coat on top of the matte clear coat. I've heard of people experiencing frosting when using different clear coats on top of one another, so keep that in mind if you use a different clear coat on top of it

>>11486293
the only time I've had problems with tamiya spray can clears is when I put too much on at once
the solvents definitely fuck up the paint

its simply a skill issue and if you just mist on the coats and dont just hose on the paint you'll be fine probably

>>11486546
nta, this it why I prefer mr hobby. you can accidentally spray too much but it levels itself out and doesn't ruin the paint job

who still reads this slop?

>>11486546
I think I'll get the tamiya spray and try to carefully spray on a thin coat. Thanks for the advice.

>>11486635
You know, never in my life have I seen anyone buy a Squadron book or anything of that nature. Does anyone actually buy them or is it just a tax write-off for Squadron?

>>11486884
Osprey makes "vs" books, they're only worth it when there's new material from photographs and archives. Otherwise just read some guys blog or a forum than pay good money for a 60% probability of factual errors.

>>11486635
>>11486884
These are probably obsolete in the age of War Thunder and Youtube essays. Maybe only Gen X-ers and boomers buy them.

>>11486903
I would by them if they were cheap in a used bookstore, but this sort of stuff never turns up in those places.

Yo dawg, I heard you like shit, so I put an Airfix F.2B on your shitter, so you can shit while you're shitting.

tourist here
is a 3d printer worth it for scale modeling?,
i'm a bit of a causal when it comes to modelling but my local provider of plastic kits closed its doors and importing them to my country is way too expensive, how's the availability of 3d models online and are these models any good compared to your average plastic kit?

>>11487327
What country? Depends really on the 3D printing part.

>>11484303
>>11484299
Oh fuck I thought this was 1/35 scale
Doesn't that company just rip models from games and then print them btw?

>>11487360
I'm from a very isolated city in chile where everything is expensive, kind of like in alaska.
I've been looking foward to saving up for an Ender Se which looks good enough for a newfag like me

>>11487327
It depends on what you want to do with your 3D printer
Sadly the only way to print plastic like models is with a resin printer
If you're scratchbuilding then an FDM could be useful but don't expect too much of it

>>11474434
No but I would r commend looking on 4plebs for Abrams and Ukraine on boards /pol/ and /k/, I don't look at Ukraine myself anymore but there are often rare images, if Abrams were made with such mods you can maybe find pics there

>>11487310
Great post, Biff,
makes me relive my childhood once again. I remember building this kit at the kitchen table when they announced on the radio that Kennedy was shot. Wonderful memories!

Are there any good Bo-105 kits in 1/72?

Progress on the shit 23 hours of work since summer coyotes or a bobcat killed a boar last night and it woke me up. Touch up paint will be tomorrow.

I need criticism, by the way. This kit will be one of the last brush painted models I will do, I just need to straighten things out before I get my airbrush up and running.

>>11488597
>Summer
Some

>>11488597
The images are too dark and blurry to give any feedback. Turn on a fucking lamp man.
Also for base layers there's also not much feedback to give. Is there any reason in particular you're doing (seemingly) this many subassemblies? I mean it makes painting easier, but getting to a uniform result absolutely horrid.

>>11488772
It is a biplane with long exhaust pipes, my goal it to avoid having to paint between struts or learn that I need to remove details while decaling. The only subassemblies are the fuselage, wings and landing gear, so I figured that I would paint and decal before the main assembly stage on account of these reasons.

>>11488833
New pictures.

>>11488837

>>11488837
>>11488838
These are worse.

>>11488841
I wouldn't say worse, but now you can actually see that the paint job isn't that good. At least the coverage seems decent, but hard to say with the blurriness.

>>11488837
>>11488838
If you are using any phone or camera without a macro lens, turn on a desk lap or as many as you have to have uniform strong lighting, set the camera on something stable, actually get the model in manual focus (you will have to be farther than you think and zoom in instead of sticking the lens into the model) and then you might get a decent picture. If you don't have a macro lens, there is no way your camera will focus close enough. Zooming in from further away is the solution. Light just makes the models actually visible with short exposure times.

>>11488844
No macro lens, the zoom is 2x... I will set something up as I have a desk lamp with a magnifying glass, so maybe I can take pictures through that. I will say that there are no brush strokes, but I feel that maybe I should use less paint. The paint was thinned to 2% milk consistency, yet I feel like it is still too thick.

>>11488597
what is it

>>11488837
What you could try with this one before final assembly is doing lots of drybrushing to bring out the details and the fabric texture if there is any.

>>11488856
Bristol F.2B from Airfix.
>>11488859
There are since stitches. Would linen drybrushing be alright, as the model is dark green?

>>11488877
Sure, or a lighter grey green.

>>11488877
>the model is dark green
should be brown green

this is my first modern airfix kit. its pretty good I'll definitely be buying more in the future
decals next, then weathering, then add on the ordinance, then I think it'll be done

>>11489072
forgot my image because im a fucking retard

>>11489032
Well it is Yellow Olive mixed with Green Brown, to be exact (I can give mixing ratios too, of you want). It looks about right compared to the examples that I see on-line, but that is just me.

Man, 1:35 WW2 builders have it financially easy, the Tamiya Challenger 1 already ate half a bottle of mahogany primer and I still got half the wheels left. Modernshit is just too big, and also too detailed, with a bunch of external shit that takes a lot of paint to cover, from IR searchlights to storage baskets.

>>11489072
>>11489073
nice. I liked the build options in this kit

>>11489073
Waiting for the Grand Charles reboxing of this

>>11489089
try 1/72 armor next time it will save you alot of paint

>>11471877
I do. You're looking for frame kits, then? Or do you mean complete kits with plank-on-frame hulls?

>>11489608
I wish the local hobby shops had these new 72nd releases ordered, I'm sick and tired of paying for delivery as well

>>11489089
Have you tried die-cast?

>>11489608
>>11489722
Unfortunately I'm no longer a child.

>>11489725
did your eyesight get bad

>>11489816
>builds detailless toys
>HURR DURR EYESIGHT
Projection. Reply back when you're drilling out machine gun barrels and adding chains to the smoke grenade caps.

>>11489883
Well, you're the one whining, aren't you? If you can't afford paint then maybe this isn't the right hobby for you?

>>11489883
>blindoid thinks 1/72 mg barrels are too small to drill

>>11489894
>>11489896
Now comes the redditbrained defensive no-u maxxing.

>>11489905
Drilled out 1/72 7,92mm mg barrels, just for you

Look at those drilled 1/72 barrels.
LOOK AT THEM!

>>11489946
>>11489946
>insecure screeching from 1/72poor
So you're telling me you drilled it out with a 0.1mm bit?

I broke my 1/35 nashorns travel lock when trying to tie the copper wire to the little loop. Should I try to make a loop out of the spare copper wire, chuck a camo net over it, or see if I can get the part again from tamiya?

>>11490038
>TRVE MODEZZERGODS ONLY BUY 1/56 SCALE ITALERI TANKS

>>11490168
yes

>>11489967
Ausf. A, noice, usually only ever see ausf. B. Who produces that one?

Hail to the King

>>11490348
Nice zimmerit.

>>11490348
Nice last-ditch paintjob.

>>11490349
I have zimmerit on my Tiger I.
>>11490363
I don't have an airbrush so gotta paint them one way or the other.

>>11490038
>drilled it out with a 0.1mm bit
what's so special about that?

>>11490348
soul paintjob

>>11489883
Always amazes me how some niggers get so angry at 1/72 models, it's funny and sad. Same for the ones that get insanely angry at 1/35.
And before you sperg out some more, I build both 1/35 and 1/72, suck my cock. Though for some people it might be even worse that I do both.

>>11490432
Tiger pics please.

>>11490278
First to Fight. Dirt cheap but simplified because it's intended for wargaming.

>>11490704
It is much better than I would have expected, some other interesting bits in that line too.

>>11490445
Aligning it
I'm terrified of drilling barrels because I can never find the center

As a non-binary with ASD I prefer 1/72 armor, because the alt-right nazi dudebros who dominate the 1/35 armor scene give me the ick. I come here because I got banned at the Discord I went to because I accidentally violated the ban on Israeli vehicles when I posted my AML-90 build in IDF colors.

>>11490348
This would look bad on a 1/72 model. Do better.

>>11490363
What is last ditch about ambush? Last ditch would be shit on red primer.

>>11490513
Nice way of saying "twitterbro tier shit" I guess

>>11490835
Last ditch in that it looks like it was done by geriatric Volkssturm volunteers with a paint roller and fence paint.

>>11490844
More like with the actual fence post, but I get you.

rude

>>11490846
If he painted it better, there would be no reason to be rude, but reality is often disappointing.

>>11484247
That's a real tank? Looks like something out of quar

I started on trumpeters kondensator. Been in the stash a few years, always wanted to build it, and... it's just not a good kit. Gaps and mold seams all over, gonna be another slog

I've never bought any 3D printed models so far.
However...

Leave tigerbro alone. At least you can tell what his model is supposed to be. Look at my diarrhea vomit Stug.

>>11491355
>Ausf G
mein bruder

>>11491311
Actually this is pretty nice tbdesu.

Tigerbro please post your tiger, it cannot be worse than this abomination with milliput zimmerit I hobbled together in middle school.

>>11491386
Here, I used that Tamiya putty that dries out really quick on mine.

>>11491399
Pretty alright really I'd recommend you save up for an airbrush. It will definitely help you with getting the soft tone camo look. Picrel is the last tiger tank I made.

Well, if we're posting our nasty cats

B-26... Not my finest finish...

>>11491405
Well you can tell the difference.
These are my dad's builds.

What is the verdict on Paasche airbrushes? I am looking at one for $140 , which is cheaper than what I can find for other brands. The have seems reputable, but what are your thoughts?

>>11491502
Generally solid, average-good. They don't generate more complaints than Iwata or Badger. Mileage may vary depending on the specific make. You can be reasonably assured that for $140 it's not going to be shit.

>>11491414
post swordfish

>>11491762
Before I learned that Tamiya paint does not thin with water.

>>11491794
Again, not a good effort, but nothing in that picture is anything to be proud of. I lacked proper rigging thread too. The kit is from Matchbox, by the way and bought for cheap. The kit itself is not that bad, really.

>>11491794
>>11491795
nice, but is that edsg? every time I see a faa temperate sea scheme build online, it looks too bright

>>11491311
The hull looks somewhat half decent but then you just went "ah fuck it, I'll just fingerpaint the rest"?

>>11491420
Your dad must be actually disappointed in you, holy shit. His are actually fairly decent. Let him teach you or get you a brick to practice on or something.

>>11484299
Is SSMODEL good then? I haven't got anything from them but there are a few I was looking at

>>11491892
Nope, the color is see old Model Master paint, possibly Dark Ghost Grey, but I would need to check. In my opinion it looks nice, but it is almost guaranteed too light of a shade and I probably would have been better off going for Gunship Grey with maybe a bit of white mixed in.

>>11491329
holy fuck he's cute

I am making a practicing a couple of techniques on a walker bulldog and I want to ask are there any books or media depicting a what-if 1950s WW3 scenario?

>>11492596
>what-if 1950s WW3 scenario

If you're going that strict then "Command & Conquer: Red Alert" is the only one that fits the bill afaik. Though it's debatable if it's WW3 or alternate WW2.

I hate morons using ChatGPT for everything, but this is one of the legitimate cases where I must ask, why not just ask ChatGPT?

>>11492824
>Red Alert
Yea, the technique known as blast that shit with blue paint

>>11492833
If the question was to choose a paint scheme, then any book suggestion would effectively boil down to "idk man, figure something out lmao"

https://youtu.be/HBURlcNpfoo?feature=shared&t=210
>he doesn't disassemble his models
shiggy diggy

I finished every model I had any sort of drive to finish and now I feel a distinct lack of purpose

>>11494898
buy kits and don't build them

I feel like doing something German. You think a Puma, Panzer II, or Hetzer would look better?

>>11494898
Find something else that you want to build.

>>11495240
mr. tamiya needs to ramp up their 48 scale armor kit development

>>11495309
What about the Aoshima 1:48 armor kits?

Other than that, it is just resin stuff, but from what I have seen, it looks to be of a decent quality.

>I feel like doing something German
how very original

>>11495228
germany is gay

>>11495999
takes one to know one

Which Tamiya TS green spray would be the best for this camo? I was thinking about dark yellow for the other color so I'd like to find the perfect match for it

>>11496052
any tamiya KT will have the green marked as TS 2 or XF 61, but it is too dark and needs to be mixed

>>11491360
That's a StuG IV though

>>11495228
Puma with open gun
>>11495999
Subbieseethe

>>11490830
Do you have braindamage? Why does 1:72 make some thirdies cry? Is it the sausagefingers or bad vision? Rotten attentionspan?

>airfix includes decals for the yellow leading edges
>try one
>can't get it to conform properly
>decide ' oh I'll just mask and paint them on later instead it'll be easier and look better"
>apply rest of decals, cover them all with plenty of clear coat so I can blend them in later
>go to put down masking tape to paint yellow
>not happy with it, pull it up to adjust
>takes almost entire decal with it
im going to kill myself, I think

>>11496441
rip. can't you recover it from the tape?

>>11496470
I just touched it up with paint. If you squint really really hard it almost looks not fucked up

>>11496355
Well spotted.

Anybody looking for an easy way to tell the difference between the chassis, count the roadwheels.

8/2 = IV
6/2 = III

The exceptions are the SPG Hummel/Nashorn which used a new chassis combining parts of both.

Bros...
Tell me what I should get:
>Special Hobby 1/72 Mirage F.I South African Commie Killers
>Special Hobby 1/72 SF260 Duo Combo with book (the goal would be to build a Rhodesian one, plus one more)
>Miniwing 1/144 Mirage IV
>Mark I 1/144 HS748
>F-RSIN 1/144 Viking
>F-RSIN 1/144 Viscount

Airfix 1/72 Hawker Typhoon Mk1b

first modern tool airfix kit. pretty good kit, I didn't have any major issues with the quality of the kit or its decals. As usual most of the mistakes were self caused.
I will definitely be buying more Airfix in the future. I already have their Hurricane Mk1 trop. that I'm definitely looking to building now.
I'm not sure what I'll build next, maybe one of my cars

Leaving for two weeks to help take care of family, but my Tamiya Panther A build is finally ready for paint. Eduard Zimmerit kit attached, Eduard Superdetail kit installed, Eduard Schurzen upgrade panels test fitted, and an aftermarket metal barrel sourced. At the end of the day I think the only things not modified are the roof hatches, wheels, and treads (and I'm only using stock treads because the mold's age is so old that I don't know if any aftermarket tread upgrade sets are compatible). The only photoetch parts not installed are the chains that hold on the spare tread links and the tow cables.

For what its worth, using this to practice extensive modification has been very fruitful. Almost a shame it'll all get covered in dunkelgb and tricolor.

>>11496722
>PE zimmerit
jesus christ that's fucking miserable, they look like applique armor plates

>>11496722
That PE application around the MG port is absolutely abysmal

why do fags have such strong opinions about zimmerit

>>11496955
it's the PE zimmerit, retardfriend
we are well past 1967, more and better techniques for representing zimmerit exist

>>11496968
maybe it'll look ok, faggot

Are there any good guides out there for wiring lots of LEDs?
Thought it would be simple but I guess maybe not, I don't want to use batteries so I thought I could power them with USB 5V since those adapters are easy to find.

Freshly baked:
>>11497147
>>11497147
>>11497147

protip #923

never throw away your old boxes. they make for perfect secret safes to store controversial items you don't want your family members or anyone to find. because no one is ever going to open them, for any reason, but you.