Thread 11539374

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

Discord
https://discord.gg/W973BmwERB

The guide:
Part 1 (Quick Start)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vSBDfE8Iz-a86DZJCR5MHRW6tjkQX-y4-ZpUc_vHjRfx_i2FB0zR1usdrgUJ4wNTs1iDFZmTQHF66X_/pub

Part 2 (Deeper Dive)
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQJG2SZo1O1PjExPrdU_-GnkrYTGiGLCgBcKaL4peEWxOGB4CNbpGaJBV1oF61eNE1lEhbQHYEAXLrw/pub

And a handy guide to other types of plamo: http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com

Some line art:
https://imgur.com/user/Gundaml1neart/posts


Previous thread: >>11515378

== BIOMECHA GROUPBUILD ==

Build a mecha/cyborg with a visibly biological component integrated into the machine. This can include:
>Mecha that naturally have some sort of organic component to them (Evangelions, Aura Battlers, etc)
>Mecha that have organic elements attached/fused to them, willingly or otherwise
>Cyborgs, androids, and human with mechanical attachments/enhancements (Robocop, Kamen Rider, mecha musume, etc)

Send your entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com with at least 5 photos of your finished build along with any WIP photos and a description of your entry.
START - 8/12/25
END - 11/30/25

Can I just submit this as my entry and call it a day?

>another Karl Marx

I don't get

Which version is the original redesign?

The PB one?

But this one seems to have much more linerart body. Not the head though

https://x.com/30mmissions/status/1959903631505006725
full version of the bike, not half one finally releasing this week
30mm sized

>>11540157
Ooh, I might get two, one to paint purple for my Acerby E and one for my Acerby C.

>>11540603
I got the kotobukiya bikes. The acerby stuff has really inspired me to make one.

I must admit, I feel kind of pissed that they're finally releasing a MG Full Armor ZZ after I went through the effort of pre-ordering a MG FAZZ for the express purpose of building it myself. Like, I'm glad it's finally getting a kit five years after it should have, but the timing could not have been worse for me.

>>11539639
A few anons in the past have submitted minimally modified kits just with a cool paintjob. I wouldn't expect to be #1 but you might get some votes.

I FUCKING FOUND ENRYU'S HEAD CREST

>>11542652
*takes it and eats it*

You guys use those stick-on 3d mono eyes? Casuals. I only use actual rubies.

Fr though, the fact that these go down to 3 mm diameter actually makes me consider this… The ones from those stickers are always too big.

>>11542652
>>11542744

>>11543214
the mono eyes are the only bits I currently paint

Does anyone know where to find Plamo scanner boxes like Pic Rel?
I'm having trouble finding the sides. I want to reduce them and make a mini model kit store for my figurines.
I found some on Pinterest but still, these idiots don't write "gunpla box" in big letters in the name or description, you have to look for them by scrolling

Just found out they are making buddy complex models lits, literally so happy

Saint Seiya plamos

I have a weird question that’s not really on topic but I don’t know where else to ask. I’m trying to repair some headphones, and I’ve been trying to use Tamiya Extra Thin cement to weld some plastic together. It’s got gaps that need to be filled, though, so I was wondering if I could let it cure entirely and use the baking soda + superglue trick on top of that. But I’m dumb and I don’t know about chemical interactions, so I don’t want to fuck up.

>>11544866
That’s fine bro. I use black (has rubber or something gap-filly) superglue as a gap filler all the time on plamo. You just sand it down and polish when you are done. I haven’t tried with baking soda though, i just let it dry naturally to avoid bubbling

>>11544878
I was more worried that I couldn’t find any info about what happens if you put super glue on a piece of plastic that has had plastic cement used on it first. AI said once it’s cured the plastic cement is just the leftover plastic itself, but I wanted something more reliable than that.

Supposedly adding baking soda makes a very strong bond.

>>11544881
>AI said once it’s cured the plastic cement is just the leftover plastic itself
AI has common sense apparently.

>makes a very strong bond
You don't need the bond to be stronger than the surrounding plastic.

>>11544891
I guess that’s fair, just always want to double check since AI is known to hallucinate and suggest stupid shit.

It’s just a point of stress and there are a few gaps where I don’t think bonded as well. I’m considering like JB weld instead of super glue anyway, it’s a hinge on a pair of headphones.

>>11544899
>it’s a hinge
If that is under any kind of stress during usage I would seriously consider reinforcements with metal rods. Gluing plastic together can only do so much.

>>11544900
Not a bad idea, it’s just in a weird place, if you know of the dreaded breaks common in the Sony XM5 line you’ll know exactly what I mean. Maybe I can add some supporting rods and then JB weld the whole shit together lol

Anyway sorry for the random off topic, I just knew this place would know about these kinds of interactions most likely.

>>11544866
Afaik cement only works on styrenes. Like Poly-Styrene and Asomething-Bsomething-Styrene.
I doubt your headphones are made of styrene. Does it even interact with the plastic?

>>11544927
They’re made of recycled ABS supposedly, but when you press the pieces together, I do get the bead of plastic. Just a weird break, so I can’t get a solid contact.

I almost had a fucking heart attack last night when my LED lights fell down and knocked over the models I keep in my room at like 5am...
I still can't find Blue Eyes' face.

>>11543214
Post results, that sounds like a fun option

>>11544866
Use an epoxy resin or a UV resin putty (make sure to wear gloves, it's toxic). Superglue, even the flexible gel/rubberized kind are too brittle for a part that will be moving constantly.

>>11544590
I hope Cancer Death Mask will be announced soon. He has one of the best designs.

>>11545358
next is Taurus Aldebaran so we will see at least the 12 goldies complete eventually

How much of a coin toss is buying gunpla from aliexpress when it comes to original kits?

>>11545680
Its pretty safe. Aliexpress support isnt as generous as some other sites, but it's enough to protect you from straight-up scams.
Though I don't even think there's too many of those.

>>11545680
>>11545688
I would warn you to double and triple check what it is you are buying. A lot of listings have what it is you want as the title but they have different "sizes" or "colours" that are all completely different products but the title stays the same.

Slowpoke diorama and shading practice

Slowpoke, diorama and shading practice

>want to combine a 8mm ball and a 120deg chamfer bit in one DSPIAE AT-CT tool
>they don't fit by like 1mm
>3mm chamfer bits shorter than 50mm don't appear to exist in nature
>shortening a solid tungsten carbide bit is not an option
>but deepening the channel inside AT-CT is
How often do you modify your tools the hard way?

>>11545938
Do you do a preshade, zenithal, or black basing for your shading?

>>11546050
I mean cleanly deepening a hole is much simpler than nicely cutting hardened steel. I wouldn’t call this the hard way

>>11546299
I don't know. I just primed it white and went from top to bottom with different pink shades

>>11546344
That would be called post-shade then, or just plain “layering the paint”. This thing has way too many technical terms for just painting.

>>11546454
I don't know. Im just happy i got the desired effect, and have a nice beach themed base.

Thats more than most people in the hobby

>>11546982
It’s sad the pokemons thread had nothing to say about it. Good job. Here’s a piece i did a while back.

>>11547054
Is there a guide on how to do that style of base?

I copied all my stuff from warhammer guides

>>11547066
Here’s a guide i will write it for you:

Buy a wooden pencil holder, or some other square shaped plinth-like object. You then use it as a template to cut out plastic plate with the desired terrain roughness. Each plate piece should be a little wider than the base, so some sticks out on one side at each of the four corners. wood-glue or some other white glue these to the base. I clean up any seams with more glue and sandpaper, but it’s not strictly necessary, they usually aren’t noticeable. Then add pegs of rod or something to hold the model’s feet steady, drill out a hole in the base for this and your model, get the pose right here. Then add groundwork, while leaving space for the feet. Finally, spray the base sides black surfacer and use painter’s tape to protect them while you handpaint/spray the ground work and finalize the feet. Often times i need to do one more spray of black to fix edge bleeds or chips pulled up by the tape, but it’s fine, blends reasonably well.

Give it a shot and you will hopefully find this a simple way to get a sharp looking base. I’ll be in these threads if you have more questions.

I made one of these. It was only my second paintjob, and much more complicated than the last, so I learned a lot.
I was gonna try doing a lot of weathering, but I was too scared of screwing up what I already had.

>>11547098
>Buy a wooden pencil holder, or some other square shaped plinth-like object.
Is that even necessary? Can't you just literally glue 5 plastic plates together to make an open box, carve the "terrain roughess" on the upper edges, mount the model on the rods, fill the box with plaster or something and be done with it?

>>11547164
The paintjob is supposed to be kinda like countershading. I think this guy is supposed to be like a scout flying around on the moon and stuff.
Looking at it from below/the front it's black like space and moon colored from above/the back.
Works better in person.

>>11547164
>I was gonna try doing a lot of weathering, but I was too scared of screwing up what I already had.
The first thing you should learn as you learn to paint is how to make each step reversible without screwing up the previous steps. That removes the fear and lets you progress faster.

Why did no one tell me Barnes & Noble have gunpla?

>>11547167
You could i guess, but the plinth keeps it nicely square and provides structure. The plate i used was 0.5mm, so it really was necessary. I also wouldn’t trust a filler material not to shrink or grow, as it dries, which would warp things.
>>11547168
Nice scheme. I think you should not worry about messing it up with weathering. Clean is ok, but maschinen krieger is meant to be weathered, it just is! Weathering products like oil, pigments, and enamels are highly reversible too, so you never make a mistake you can’t take back. You can use varnish layers to “save your progress” if you are scared about reactivating them. You may want to be careful if you use sandpaper chipping, but even that is extremely easy to do in small steps. You should go for it, weathering brings out the best in a finish! Just make sure to stop when you think it’s enough, sometimes you can get caught up in the fun and go overboard.

>>11547488
Because it's not guaranteed. I've been to two of them in my city, one of them had a HG The O and a few sundry 08th MS Team things, and the other had absolutely nothing.

I've also heard that Walmart and Target carry Gunpla as well, but I have never seen it at Walmart, while Target only carries it in their "Japanese collectibles" shelf section and you're likely to only actually find two or three kits total. Point being, they're not reliable in the slightest, so you're better off not even trying unless you're desperate.

>>11547500
Their website says they have online delivery available for a good number of kits... many of them don't even have pictures, though.

>>11547498
I know I know...
I was planning on doing it, but I was kinda burned out after working on it for a week.
And it's also just that I don't really know how to realistically weather scale models.
Sure, I can dry brush and sponge dab and shit, but I feel like that isn't enough so I put it off.
You got any tips? Guides?

>>11547538
Pick and choose what you want to try from this guide, or some of his other stuff. Sky’s the limit, just take a break and come back to it, don’t burn out!
https://youtube.com/watch?v=aGeQJ23GLzI

>>11547538
Just have to bite the bullet and go fo it, stop doibting yourself. Dont worry about mistakes, youll make some and learn from them. Use the youtube video as a guide, look at other guides, military stuff has a ton of good sources to learn from as well. Try out some mr weathering colors or tamiya powders, mix a wash of your own. Theres alot of ways to go about it.

I gave my cousing the entry grade rx-78-2 gundam

He got it 90% of the way done before giving up on the calves, and playing fortnite. Do kids really have no attention span anymore?

>>11548002
Oh and his sister annihilated my 30$ nippers, by repeatedly cutting the runner for fun.

>>11548002
Did he even ever watch any Gundam? Should've just gotten him some Fortnite stuff.

>>11548028
I had the idea, after he tried destroying my shelf of painted kits. At least he stopped liking gundam afterwards, so my kits are safe. Thats a plus.

>>11548002
Should have gone with a zeon suit.

Building my first ever original Chinkpla, SNAA Gawain. It's honestly pretty impressive for something cheaper than HGs, especially the amount of undergates.

>>11548028
>Did he even ever watch any Gundam?
To be fair, you don't need to watch Gundam to appreciate a cool giant robot. It does help though.

>>11548233
Hell I'd say there's some MS designs I liked more before I watched the show they are in cuz their pilots were awful.

>>11548233
>you don't need to watch Gundam to appreciate a cool giant robot
I got started with the Hazel kit because it looked cool. Followed that up with watching.
Regret it after all the figures, kits and trips to see the statues and moving Gundam.

I might buy more MGSDs. This is a pretty cool kit. There's one for Aerial now isn't there?

I just bought the Red Gundam HG from Gquux. Have not opened the box yet, waiting on my markers and tools to come in before I go all in on it... definitely one of the color looking gunpla to come out. reminds me of super human samurai

Biggest regret in life is never seeing the Gundam factory f00
fuck that thing was cool

Got the volks 144 LED mirage.
How should I go about the translucent white armor? Matte spray? Gloss? Any tips will be appreciated.

>>11547498
based weathering enthusiast

Has anyone here painted over old sakura micron panel lines? Will they effect or harm the paint at all? I mean a full coat of paint on the piece, not a panel line wash to replace the pen lines.
I've got a 30mf knight who I'm thinking about painting the armor on but I'm unsure. I also really want to panel line it but I don't want to shoot my potential future self in the foot.

>>11554258
Why's he giving the good ol Gundam a pat on the head

>>11554356
He'll cry otherwise.

>>11554258
It's a model kit that is still in production and, at most, $25. Just do it and get another if you fuck it up, or maybe reconsider if you actually like model kits.

>>11554517
So will I
>gained more articulation at the cost of seemingly-arbitrary detailing
So will I!

>>11554258
if you're really worried you can always give him a swab-down with some isopropyl beforehand.

got some more progress today

Has anyone seen how much of the moderoid gacha spartan needs painting?
Haven't done any moderoids don't they have some parts pre painted on the runner?

>>11555134
Moderoids vary a bit but most do come with some pre-painted parts and/or decals. The ones I've gotten the only ones with stickers have been combiners. Patlabor ones all came with decals. Escaflowne ones all had some pre-painted bits.

If I were to hazard a guess I expect the numbers will be stickers and everything else will be color separated. The metallic silver parts might be pre-painted.