kook edition

>how do I learn to surf?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrwL5_57C6w [Embed] [Open]

>How do I pick the right board?
Use a volume calculator, and find the right board type for your local break or waves you want to ride
https://www.jsindustries.com/volume-calculator
https://www.boardcave.com/surfboard-volume-calculator

>how do I know if the waves are good?
go check surfline or magicseaweed for reports

Previously: >>185762

selfishly i started this thread to ask for board recommendations..
I am looking for a fun board in 2-4ft conditions. I have come to the realisation I have too many excuses to go out above that size and should get a board suited to what I actually surf. I was something cruisy, was thinking 6'8ish range that can paddle but also duck dive. I have gone from minimal to a 6'6 but 3" thick beefy board, a 6'8 thinner board (by far my best board rip) and now a 6'4 board closer to a short board (I am 6'3). Where to from here? I don't see myself doing sharp hacks or anything high performance, but maybe some round houses and floaters..

Hola. This is by the way the third surf general, not the second.

Also, could you link it to the old?

Round houses and floaters are "high-performance" if you want to, depending on your style (long fucking forgotten thing, owing to the sportification of surfing)

>2-4 feet

Wave size or swell size? If wave size, go for a groveller, thick board but short length, to ride the foam.

In surfing, physical condition is mostly irrelevant to your mental condition; no matter how well-prepared your body is, there is one factor you need to go over that is inevtable and that is, sitting comfortably out the back and that only comes with doing it often enough.

>>237182
Old thread is linked. I missed #1 guess it was a prelude.
Idk by swell or surf but say chest to overhead. Anywhere from 2ft - 8ft faces.
I can sit out there and am comfy in the surf just bigger days spots I'd be comfy catching waves, so would 200 of my best friends. Smaller days I can go to quieter beachies.
Thick but short, how short and thick? Also do you mean to ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?
Roundhouse as in I do a shitty turn back to the pocket not some powerful stuff and floaters off small end sections I'm not launching a float to flat on an 8 face..

>>237183
No, kek, I meant link the old TO the new.

>>237183
>ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?

Exactly

Generally, you want a groveller about a foot shorter than your go-to board and thicker than your go-to board. They are especially designed for this, to play in the surf.

Rented a foamie for my next two weeks of vacation.

Wish me luck :)

>>237405
shred the gnar anon

HOW DO I STOP THE CHAFING (CHEST/TITS)
on a foamie if that matters

>>237740
hire a dominatrix to toughen up your skin or wear a shirt or rashie

How long are you guys able to surf before becoming too exhausted to pop up? For me it's 3 hours or so

>>238160
Depends on conditions and how often I am catching waves. A busy session after 2-3 hrs my arms go and I struggle to paddle. I get a bit autistic with my paddling, small days I still paddle hard for the fitness, hold my breathe between duck dives, always stretching that area before and after surf etc.