does anyone know of a model of hammer that has a straight 90° claw? Preferably around 22oz. Bonus points for a waffle face and wood handle. Doesn't have to be very "nice" as it's just going to be used for interior demo a few times a year. picrel is the closest thing I could find but I want a completely straight flat claw
Here's a clue, fuckface:
When you start a new thread for your stupid question that doesn't deserve a thread, it's starting a thread with a stupid question that doesn't deserve a thread.
>>2908233You should be banned just for being so stupid.
>>2910045Neat, I didn't see that thanks for being helpful
>>2910060Generals are gay and filled with retards anyway
>>2910065Soo… about the same as every other thread?
>>2910065that's why he belongs there.
>>2910020 (OP)what you're thinking of is a bricklayer's chisel hammer. but to go with what you asked for in the first place, I'd go with one of these options:
https://hammersource.com/vaughan-vw20-douglas-pattern-20-oz-framing-hammer-milled-face/
https://hammersource.com/vaughan-cf1-23-oz-california-framer-milled-face/
https://hammersource.com/vaughan-cf1hc-23-oz-california-framer-milled-face/
What are some "stinky" but in a good way types of wood? Idea is I want a room to smell like a rich person's house or a museum type of thing so buy a block of some wood with some stank to it and drill it under a coffee table.
>>2910020 (OP)Is there a good or easy way to remove boards that are toenailed?
>>2910215many types of cedar have that nice smell. same for camphor, but for the rich people home smell, you'd want lignum vitae and cocobolo, the latter which would be very difficult to get now in large quantities, and both are used in perfume industry too. sandalwood and brazilian rosewood are also somewhat expensive and very smelly in a good way, and at least one is used in aftershaves.
>>2910020 (OP)If you are doing demolition I would definitely go with a steel handle hammer. Wood can't really take that kind of abuse
I assume you will be using the claw as a prybar?
>>2910436I can get a 1" x 1" x 12" piece of cocobolo for 15 bucks, you think that cut into 4 pieces hidden around a typical living would be enough to give it some stank?
>>2910905If I were you, I'd try and smell the piece before purchase if that's feasible. And I would cut it into 1" cubes, leave the finish raw, for maximum aromatic output. It might be enough for a living room/dining room, or a 1-2 bedroom small apartment. You'd of course stop noticing the smell while you live in the place, but it might hit you nicely when you come back to the room from the outside.
Aromatic woods also should be lightly sanded with a rough finish every once in a while (3-6 months?) to expose a fresh surface. At least that's what I've been told.
>>2910434without damaging anything? not really, just grab a sawzall and the right blade and flush cut at the butt joint.
So, I've got a single dial shower.
We got the start of the assembly and the handle, but the handle doesn't stay on, you can put it on the end and turn it but it doesn't like click on even when I push really hard.
Is this something I could figure out as a retard and fix, even if I have to put more parts on it?
>>2912734What model of shower? Are you sure there’s no set screw or a screw hidden under a cap or something?
>>2912754I have no fucking idea on both counts. It was installed on our behalf years ago.
However, judging by your answer, a picture may be useful, since it seems like you're going to tell me that there's not even the remotest bit of standardization here.
Looking into soundproofing interior walls. I've framed out 800sqft as a living space in a larger metal building. Only done the exterior walls so far, with 3 of them being on the building's exterior walls. When it rains it's extemely loud, when it hails it literally makes my ears ring. What approach would diy take? My first thought is take down the exterior most walls and create new exterior walls, probably on 2' center to reduce material, sheeted with something sound dampening and then reset the 16" center walls against those to have layered walls. That's a lot of effort and sacrificed space, so I wanted to hear other suggestions before I start. I'm using the loft of the building as the ceiling for the living space, I now plan on making a 2nd ceiling under it to help as well
>>2912758Look at the handle part. See if there’s a little set screw that takes a small allen key on the side of the thing.
The shaft you posted, that groove on there looks like it’s made for a set screw on the side of the handle to go into.
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Does anybody else be like “Man I wish I had this thing to make a project easier, but it’s 3:30am” and then you go in the garage to look for some way to improvise and find the thing you wanted sitting in a cabinet unopened?
I have no fucking clue when I bought this thing
>>2912832I'll look when I get home from work thank you.
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I want to add a power switch to the front handle of this so I don't always have to reach for the back of it to turn it on, but I don't know what's a good way to do it. Initially I was thinking I could just take a safety switch off another model and bolt it on and run a wire, but all the safety things I've seen seem to be the mechanical interlock types that just make it so you can press the switch on the handle, not actual electrical switches to send power to the motor. Obviously I could just epoxy on any old momentary switch, but I don't think that would be very comfortable to use. Any ideas?
I used to have this cordless drill. I can not remember what brand it was. It had a small spirit level on the back with a bullseye type circle that was really helpful for keeping the drill at 90* when holding it at a wierd angle. Half the time Im using a cordless drill im hanging upside down or trying to drill a hole that I can barely reach so Id really like a drill like that again but havent seen one for sale in a while.
>>2910434expose it on both sides. go to one end of the board and smash it from one side and then smash it from the other side. after a while the nails will start to give and you'll be able to pop that end out. then with the one end exposed wiggle it back and forth until the other end gives. then youll need to tap the nails out of the board until you can pull them.
If you do it right you can have the board out with little to no damage. but it takes about 5 minutes per board so its only worth the effort if you are talking about some exotic $50/foot lumber. anything else just get a sawzall and the wood will just be like 8" shorter but still useful.
>>2912905If you can find a drill with a flat back, you can buy those spirit levels from China for like a dollar and just glue it to it.
>>2912836>Does anybody else be like “Man I wish I had this thing to make a project easier, but it’s 3:30am” and then you go in the garage to look for some way to improvise and find the thing you wanted sitting in a cabinet unopened?>I have no fucking clue when I bought this thingNo. Most people buy shit they actually need, not buy stuff and let it sit around unopened in the package for years like some loser consumer faggot...
>>2912904kinda rednecky but I bet if you took a bicycle handbrake and rigged the cable to be able to move something to push the already existing switch it would work out pretty well and you wouldnt have to worry about fucking around with the wiring which is always a pita with those things
>>2912907yea I guess I might have to do that
>>2912836nope. this is how it works out
>need tool>look for it>fuck where is it>someone must have stole it>go to hardware store and buy a new one>use new one>put new one down need something else>go look for something else>find the tool you just bought a replacement for
I've got a toilet in my basement and it's leaking water from somewhere and making my bathroom tiles into sponges. I got the toilet off the bolts and this is what it looks like underneath.
I had a plumber out a few weeks back and he said they'll need to pour new concrete and I'll have to replace the tiles and grout, quoted me $3k. Thing is, a few weeks before that, I accidentally thought the toilet was leaking when the tiles were in fact seeping water from a leaking valve in the laundry room next to it. So really this toilet only started leaking after they unseated it. Did they just royally fuck up seating it on the wax ring? As far as I can tell, the flange itself is rusted but there isn't any cracks. Do I have to do all the stuff they said or just get some new silicon and wax ring? I know it's ugly as fuck but it was working a month ago.
>>2912909>>2912912Yea but who is the winner this time?
>>2912941That looks upside down to me. Google wax ring installation and see what you think.
>>2912961I had run through a few videos and thought the same. I was pretty certain the wax ring fell off after I lifted the toilet, so it's a 50/50 that the plumbers were riotous fuck-ups and put it in upside-down. I replaced the wax ring and put some silicon caulk where the floor meets the tile, so hopefully that's better than nothing. Thanks, man. I'll let you guys know if it keeps being an issue.
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>>2910020 (OP)i heard that kids suck at looking stuff up now. like they cant put descriptors in the search box. OP did you just type hammer in google and then just come here after not seeing what you were looking for?
>>2912941>someone bought the fancier wax ring and then installed it upside down>plumber told you the fix for this was to fucking replumb the whole thingya know why he said that? because its a $5 30 minute fix.
also, if the tiles are spongy... only time Ive seen that before is if some fucking brainiac used mastic for floor tiles. the shit turns to jelly when wet. Bonus here though is if thats the case removing rhe old tiles will be easy.
>>2912832So I checked it, it does have a lock screw, but the lock screw doesn't reach the assembly through the handle (and the handle won't go down the length far enough to get to the hole anyway).
I'm gonna assume the nice people that built this for us were either kitbashing parts together or bought from the Temu equivalent at the time.
Where was /diy/ when 4chan went down?
>>2913027shitty alt chans and doing real life stuff
Want to build a garden fire to sit around, Anyone know how to size and position air intakes to get a mostly snokeless flame or can direct me to some source?
More than happy to get into the thermodynamics pf how fire and fresh oxygen mix if that's available.
>>2912990Did you try spinning the screw? They’re made to thread down in there and be hidden, you have to stick an allen key in it.
>>2913027This
>>2913053Except for the other chans. I had to do real life stuff.
>built an easel for grandma in-law>did starter, vtec solenoid gasket, high pressure steering line + sensor on Honda 2.4 where starter is under the intake>played handyman at lady’s condo, fixed complicated glass closet door that weighed a ton, installed cieling fan, dimmer switch for kitchen lights, and some other random trim bits>installed backsplash the wife has wanted since we bought the house
>>2913102>>2913053The attempted easel
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>>2913060had to push my wife to think about the problem - we are going for bamboo in planters/pots behind the fence
>>2910215You can wood scented oil and pour it on a piece of porous material
>>2912905Ryobi had this at one point I believe
Should I replace these metal studs?
Is there any reason for houses in Australia to have inch and a half gaps underneath the internal doors?
>>2913206To let the poisonous spiders in.
>>2913206The same reason it's done in other parts of the world - air circulation between rooms.
Especially beneficial for central heating or cooling.
Why doesn't anyone make a plastic tool cabinet? I think there's a reasonably large casual/DIY audience that just wants something to store and organize their tools in and isn't very picky. It's just going to be in the corner of a garage for it's entire life so security isn't a massive concern either. Metal toolboxes are cool, but expensive. Why hasn't anyone just.... made one out of plastic? Use metal for reinforcement where necessary but it seems like most of the cabinet and drawers could be made of plastic to dramatically reduce cost. I'm sure those $100-150 5 drawer pieces of shit you see for sale on amazon and at walmart could be made of plastic for half the price...
I went looking if any examples of such existed, the only thing I found were some by rubbermaid, but this fucking thing is $800!!! made 100% in USA probably a big reason, but damn!
>>2913916Metal tool boxes will last 50 years if you don’t let them rust away.
Plastics get brittle and fucked up by a lot of solvents and chemicals used in shops and garages. Leave a can of brake cleaner sitting on the top of your tool box and you might have a 3” hole and a goopy mess of sticky melted plastic. Any tools that get oily a lot, that drawer will probably be fucked quickly as well.
Plastic can sag a lot too which will suck on your wrench or pliers drawer with 150lbs of shit in there, and it’s going to take a lot of metal bits to make drawer slides that hold up to that weight over the years. And you better figure out a good way to attach the drawer slides to the plastic, that’s going to be a lot of stress.
To make a plastic box hold up half as long as a metal box in a real work environment is going to take a lot of work and probably cost nearly as much as the sheet metal box.
Also keep sparks away from the plastic box! Don’t set a grinder with a hot wheel on it!
>>2913923I see, I suppose trying to engineer a plastic version that stands up to consumer scrutiny would be harder than I imagined. I suppose if I want to cheapskate out, I'll have to assemble my own abomination. I've seen a redneckification of a 3-tier kitchen cart made rolling tool cabinet, I guess I could do something similar and just try to make it look "nicer"
>>2913926There are plenty of commercial options already. Didn’t you just make a thread about this? Or it was before the crash?
There’s bigger stuff like Tekton and the Yuro brands and Nu-SK has some I think, also the DeWalt XL, and then a ton of smaller stuff like Milwaukee Packout and Klein Modbox. They’re great for mobile jobs but I wouldn’t expect to get more than 5-10 years or work from them before stuff starts getting brittle and hinges are snapping off, and you can’t load them up with 200lbs per drawer like a real metal tool box.
>>2913927I didn't make a thread about this, this is a recent topic for me. And all those options are more than I really want to spend. I want something cheap to park in the corner of my garage and keep my hand tools organized, preferably with drawers. That tekton system looks great but it's like $500
Ideally I'd like to spend under $200, but everything in that price range are these pot metal generic 5 drawer on top, empty cabinet below things, and I had one of those before that was the biggest piece of shit. All the drawers were fucked up within 2 years of use because pulling or pushing them with just a little too much angled forced warps the metal the slide rails are riveted to. I put all my shit in bins when I moved and sold the empty box at a garage sale for $50 before I left...
It just blows my mind that, for something that wont fall apart under normal use within a few years, and is actually large enough to put a reasonable assortment of tools in, the price seems to start at $500 or so. I'm going to try a /diy/ solution but I'll start saving in the background and probably just bite the bullet in a couple years on a proper box
>>2913930$200 isn’t that much money these days.
Cheapest option is Walmart. They have the Hart and Hyper Tough system. Harbor Freight has a cheaper Bauer modular system. Kobalt at Lowe’s and the Craftsman system are somewhat affordable too.
I got the Hart for mobile jobs because it was $74 for the 3pc starter set, but the 2-drawer sections are nothing like a proper metal tool box when I get wrenches and heavy stuff in them.
If it’s for your garage, I recommend a proper metal tool box. Stay away from the super budget Craftsman with the one big compartment on the bottom. But keep an eye out for a Craftsman-Kobalt-Husky-US General setup on sale. They will last decades if you don’t abuse them.
Otherwise there’s a million boxes from dead boomers on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace and OfferUp, tons of the basic 28” or whatever Craftsman boxes. The hardest part is trying to find one that isn’t overpriced because the widow wants $500 for a bunch of rusted to shit mismatched tools.
Tools are heavy, there’s a reason decent boxes aren’t cheap. You can try to cheap out now but you will have to spend in a couple years after getting frustrated with the cheap solution.
>>2913930>>2913938…meanwhile in the garage, I’ve had the Craftsman 2000 series chest I got from Sears over 20 years ago. I added the middle section, but you can still get the top and bottom at Lowe’s for under $400 these days. This thing is totally overloaded and I need to upgrade it, but it keeps doing its job.
Other option is to just get the bottom section for now, use the top as a little work surface if you don’t have a ton of tools. It will be like $200-$250 for the bottom section depending on the brand, and then you can drop another $150-$200 in a few years for the matching top section when you’re ready for it.
Some people will recommend the Harbor Freight tool carts because they’re cheap, but I don’t recommend it as a main box. They’re supposed to be a service cart that you can roll up to whatever you’re working on. If you spend $200 on a US General tool cart from HF, it will fill up quick and you will want to buy a regular tool cheat soon after.
Literally everything in my town requires a permit to do on your own home. Which is whatever, the faggots want their $50 permit fee. But to apply for the permit you basically have to be a contractor, effectively outlawing /diy/ anything on your own house. I'm supposed to pay a $2500 markup for a water heater so faggot can sign off on it being replaced when it's not at all difficult or complicated.
What are the odds of actually getting hit for replacing a furnace or water heater yourself? How would anyone know? This is some bullshit, and I live in a rural state with less than a million people too.
>>2914076Are you sure you need the permit? Most places only want you to get the permit when you pay a pro to come over to your home to do work.
If it is really that strict, replace your water heater on a Sunday and bring the old one to a recycler yourself. The only way they know the work is being done is if they see the refuse from it in front of your house or a work van or something, and the inspectors are normally only around weekdays as long as there’s no nosey ass neighbor sending pics to the HOA.
>>2912512Managed to find some switch that was advertised for makita but looked similar enough to the old one and lo and behold it worked great. Had to nigrig the wiring because the new one was
1 3
2 4
Rather than
1 2
3 4
But works great.
Thanks random amazon seller, trump shouldn't do ol' bezos dirty.
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>>2914099It was one of these bad goys, ryobi w-66n.
>>2914076>Literally everything in my town requires a permit to do on your own homehow do you know this? is this just something you've heard? or can you actually find all the RCWs and prove it? it's highly doubtful that your town doesn't allow homeowners to make basic repairs. it's just not feasible from a practical perspective. if it's something you've heard from a contractor, then it sounds like a sales pitch. the only way this is actually true is if you live in some sort of fringe town that's not normal like Medina, Washington. regardless, the only way it'll ever come up is if you truly altered the home and did not meet code, you'll have to disclose it in a sale. it could possibly come up if there was an incident and they sent an actual insurance agent out for an inspection. otherwise it's gonna take a tattling neighbor to get you in trouble.
>>2914143>>2914089My town ended all paper permits and make you do everything on an internet portal now and the form will not let you submit it at all unless you select a contractor from the list they provide that has an active license in the city. I don't know how else to take that
>>2914144give them a call, mate.
Anyone have experience with vevor or budget mag drills?
what gauge wire is commonly on those cheap ass autozone/harbor freight $25 trailer light wiring kits?
>>2910020 (OP)for demolition i would use something like this or a pry bar
>>2914076getting permits is for cucks unless you are changing square footage or messing with load bearing walls and shit.
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Less of a "how do I fuck my own ass" question and more of a "hey look at this", went by lowes for the first time in forever and found this klein 3pc made in usa plier set for $59. Looking online, seems to be a lowes exclusive. Picked it up because it seems like a stupid good value. How do you think they're managing to hit this price point? these are full sized 8" dykes and long nose + 10" alligator clone
>>2910020 (OP)pro tip for demo, especially sheetrock/plaster and especially ceilings
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-2-5LB-Garden-Pick-Mattock-with-Fiberglass-Handle-and-High-Quality-Steel-Dual-Sided-Head/7334857330?classType=REGULAR&from=/search
nice and easy prys off nice big chunks, while keeps you at safe and clean distance.
head should come off when you drop the handle hard on ground, for easy storage.
Also use small sledge to tap back of head to use spike or spade to bust tough stuff with control.
picrel is not a "madock" which has spade and axe, which is neat but not what you want for digging or demo, just fighting forest fires.
>>2914565>forged in USAThat's cute, where were they finished? Those are some sloppy grinds.
>>2914412>Anyone have experience with vevor or budget mag drills?I got one of the blue rock brand ones off e-bay before Vevor was very big or even a thing. It's done me well only single speed though. If I were to buy one today I'd probably go for the Vevor with variable speed. They've come down a ton in price over the years. Get yourself a decent set of annular cutters And maybe a few extras in the more common sizes you'll be using. A guy can touch up/sharpen them on a bench grinder but they're not as good as a fresh bit usually.
>>2914569U right, fine print on back says "PRODUCT OF USA, FINISHED BY KLEIN TOOLS MEXICO" I'll take my fell for it again award. Or not. I don't hate it for being USA/Mexico MFG, at least my money is staying on the same continent?
>>2914565>>2914569>>2914581That’s kind of depressing. And fucked up that the thing can be forged in the US, then run across the border to be “finished” and the cost of factory labor here is so bloated and transportation so cheap that it makes sense for a company to do that.
>>2914638Aimless speculation on my part, but kleins USA MFG is based in texas, in the DFW area, specifically mansfield. I drive by their plant occasionally. They might have their own truck & trailer to run loads of unfinished tools across the border same day to keep that cost low.
>>2910020 (OP)>but I want a completely straight flat clawYou're more looking for a prybar/catspaw than a hammer
>>2914661Getting stuff across the border is a pain in the ass. Pretty sure most of the truck drivers are low-paid Mexicans, then they drop stuff at a warehouse 1mi from the border on the US side, and send it on American truck.
Loading and unloading trucks takes labor too, even if it is Mexican labor. It’s a totally unnecessary step caused by a bunch of factors, and it really shows you how fucked up it is that they would take all of those extra steps to avoid employing a few more people under US labor laws. Also the fact that the logistics are cheap enough to do that probably means all of the people involved in the transportation are undervalued as well. “Globalism” makes us do some bass-ackwards stuff, and the people who push these policies that waste millions of tons of fuel oil and diesel are the same ones tellling us we can’t have a gas stove at home.
But hey, a lot of bankers and executives and politicians made good money from these trade deals with Mexico so whatever.
>>2914579I ordered one of the variable speed vevor ones and a nice annular cutter. Thank ya
Is there a tool I can use to tell if a metal is steel or not? Do I just use a magnet or is there like some professional grade version?
what is standard size for circular saw where i can find most blades for cheap? 7-1/2 or 6-1/2
I really would prefer to have a smaller saw, but if 7-1/2 is what generally everyone uses, and the size most blades come in, then thats what i will get.
are ryobi days a thing of the past?
do i need to stock pile shit before tariffs start showing their impact?
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>>2915383The scrapyard uses magnets to sort stuff. How important is it to you?
>>2915475The fitting could be clogged and crusty, it happens a lot if the object isn’t greased often. That’s why you can buy assortments of zerks for cheap at HF or Amazon or wherever. Also tons of attachments if you can’t pop the grease gun on the fitting properly. But google “how to clean crusty zerk fittings” first and see what happens”.
>>29154766.5” blades became so common that most of the time there’s shipping displays with 2pks or Diablo or DeWalt or Spyder blades, they’re offered in both 6.5” and 7-1/4” for the same cost. From all my browsing, it might be like 60/40 with slightly more 7-1/4” deals but I’ve always been able to snag a couple extra 6.5” blades in a combo pack for cheap without searching. The little 5-3/8” blades are still expensive, and 8-1/4” table saw blades never have deals. But you can’t go wrong with the main 2 choices.
(1/?)
house has old wooden siding towards the front, house has shitty wood-glue siding on the back that looks to be rotting away from the inside.
(2/?)
better pic of rot side vs not rot side
(3/?)
when i poke it, my finger goes through
(4/6)
dioes any of this look like mold. insulation looks clean.
(6/6)
im gonna crawl under house and look for mold on inside. uggghhh respirator and tyvek suit? ive never had to craw under the house and i imagine its gnar down there
What's the best way to seal metal threads for plumbing? Ptfe tape, or pipe dope, or both?
>>2913118I want to fix a fan with a bad capacitor. Someone bought me the replacement but it's a bit different and I want to make sure just in case.
The original had to pins where the fan's cables were soldered, but the new capacitor has two cables instead. Does it matter? Also, the pink fan cable connects with the red capacitor cable, right?
https://files.catbox.moe/rqppts.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/n9md2l.jpg
https://files.catbox.moe/a2ukfv.jpg
Another question I have is the position. Does it matter if the capacitor is placed upside down? The thing is that the old capacitor had the screw fastener on the top, while the new one has it on the bottom. If I want to make it fit inside the fan case, I'll have to put the new capacitor upside down.
Help pls.
What would happen if I punched this into my skin? I hypothesize that it would hurt.
>>2917401The chance of stumbling upon a toxic mold in quantities big enough to hurt you is extremely slim. Wear a mask to avoid getting spiders and dust and shit in your mouth. Goggles can’t hurt. Tyvek will probably tear just wear coveralls or a sewage worker suit
Why are they doing this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvf55plG33M
It looks like they're laying out charcoal sticks under a floor but I don't understand the reasoning
>>2917430https://naratanka.com/en/construction/
Two seconds on google.
>>2917452Thanks. I replied to your post.
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>>2917426Only one way to find out
>>2917404Both, especially on questionable fittings you’re not sure about. That Albanian youtube fuck does it I think- dope-tape-dope. On solid all metal threads, a wrap or two of tape nornally holds me over well.
>>2915383Like are you looking for the specific composition to compare to alloy tables and get the exact kind of steel? Because a lot of metalworking shops do have spectrometers for that stuff. Some will even check for you for a very small fee if you call ahead.
>>2915476if you live in north america, then both 6.5 and 7.25 are extremely common to the point of ubiquity. the cost between the two are almost identical too and plenty of deals regularly. not that you will need to change your blades that often if you are only doing DIY stuff. don't cheap out on blades for your finer finish stuff.
instead of asking whether you should go for one of the two sizes because of blade prices, you should ask what you will be doing, what you will be cutting and how heavy you want your saws to be.
Would you pay for a tool that you broke at work or buy a new one to replace it?
>>2917554Neither, that's works issue not mine
>>2917554This
>>2917558 as long as it was broken in a reasonable way and you don’t have to cover your ass.
Sometimes though you break something you need like daily and it’s going to take 2 weeks to replace through work, so other option is to buy it on your own and submit the receipt to the boss.
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LED cieling lights with a dimmer, they worked well at 100% but had an annoying flicker at low-med levels. What is that, a bad neutral?
>>2917563I was using a clamp and I guess I tightened it too much and the plastic probably had stress fatigue and just broke
>>2917565>LED cieling lights with a dimmer, they worked well at 100% but had an annoying flicker at low-med levels.>>2678737> Some friendly suggestions for posting:> - First ask Google, then ask /diy/. >>2917565>cielingIt works even if you can't spell.
>>2912941upside down wax ring and looks like vinyl tile that you can diy
One can diy regular tile too, but your camp is behind the curve.
>>2917401Smart siding is a shit product. Just replace the section that's bad and re-trim around it. Caulking and painting most of the house is probably a good idea.
>>2917565Make sure they're dimmable lights. Not all dimmers work the same.
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>>2917600There’s 3 different sections. Same can lights and same switches. Living room, dining room, and kitchen. Living room and dining room both had that flicker a bit, living room was the worst.
So I’ve had this one outlet that never worked, this
>>2917565 is a box with 2 switches, front porch light and living room lights and the totally dead outlet was directly below it. So as I start pulling the switches out, at the lightest jiggle of the wires, the lights all cut out. Obviously shitty connection in there.
Anyway the wires going to the outlet below were cut clean off, like whoever did the lights didn’t know where that wire went or decided lights were more important than the outlet. So I deciphered all of it except for one red wire in there that wasn’t connected to anything so I taped that off better and tucked it behind until I need it.
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Just in case you goys wanted to see the comparision between HF Wago knockoffs and the real thing. Only difference between size is the specs, claiming Wago 221 is good for 24-12AWG stranded and solid, while HF is good for 24-12 stranded and 24-10AWG solid.
I’ve used the Pitts on a couple projects and they’ve been ok for me so far. The memesters might be onto something with these, thet helped me clean up a clusterfuck of a box.
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>>2917757The Pitts don’t have the little test port of the Wagos either
im trying to get these "OOK" brand wall hangers into my drywall, and they go halfway in but then just bend and flop over instead of going into the wall. what do?
abcd
^^^also how tight should i tighten these screws? packaging makes no mention.
^^^ i got them all barely hand tightened and one started spinnning/stripped. what do? apply load?
>>2917757wagos aren't going to save you from sloppy work and poor decisions
>>2918195Use a better anchor or toggle if it vaporizes the drywall.
>>2910434If you're just prying things apart, get a straight claw hammer like OP. When you get the claw between the boards you're trying to separate, twist the hammer to the side instead of manually prying. Your leverage is focused to separate things about 1.5" instead of all the force needed to pry them completely apart.
Otherwise use a cats paw or wrecker bar. Undercut with sawzall.
Sometimes you can tap down a deck or siding and the nails will pop up for you. I worked under an idiot that had us cutting the paint around every nail in rotten Smart Siding. Talk about spending hours to try to save $40 of material and reusing rot.
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>>2918195Do what other anon said and get better anchors or drill the hole a tiny bit larger.
>>2918197Snug, if they start spinning it kinda sucks. This is also why I don’t like those anchors much if they’re holding any significant weight. I like the little pop toggles for medium weight drywall, and then the big snap toggles or regular metal toggle bolts for heavier loads.
>>2918249They sure helped clean up somebody else’s sloppy work. They were real nice in this one crowded box because there’s connections 5x L, N, and ground wires that need to come together and sit behind a fat LED dimmer switch, and it was much easier to neatly bend the 5-wire connections in the Wago than when they were twisted with wire nuts.
Would a thread about charcoal making work here? I thought bbq season is here and people are probably interested in the topic.
Also binchoutan or white charcoal is a fascinating problem to figure out with its unusual properties and second, vitrification stage.
I've recently gotten into the topic after getting curious about primitive technologies iron smelting and charcoal production processes, I have probably spent too many hours finding videos of kiln building and papers on the process.
Even made a few test batches in a 25l oil barrel. hoping to make an earth burn at some point.
Some examples of traditional charcoal making processes I came across.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrNinc8jtIw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtIr0FI4vbo
Are drill bits consumables? How long should they last.
t. Just broke two 4 point sds bosch bits today drilling through reinforced concrete.
Also I'm
>>2917554 so boss might start to resent me.
>>2918659Yes. It depends. SDS bits with the brazed chunk of carbide on the end can get fucked up on a hard chunk of aggregate if you're unlucky. With more predictable materials like wood and metal, outright breaking bits is almost always your fault.
>>2918659>4 point sds bosch bitsIf you're breaking those in concrete then you're probably wacking them like a retard, those things go through rebar no problem.
Generally speaking drill bits are consumable, but only when you do something stupid like drop them. Otherwise you can just regrind a point on them.
>>2918659how did you break that? let the bit and the rotary drill's hammering action do the work rather than smacking them into reinforced concrete.
>>2917554>>2918659Only if it was a personal tool of someone else on the crew. If it was owned by the company, probably not. Drill bits are definitely consumables. Even if you broke them being retarded, it's literally not your problem. Your boss or whoever should've wrangled your ass into doing it so that doesn't happen. If they don't learn from that, then they're as hopeless as you and that makes you perfect for each other.
>>2918696>those things go through rebar no problem.>No problemTry saying that after drilling 40 holes through #10 rebar reinforced concrete. The drill gets insanely how and yes I do smack it because it takes forever.
>>2918698>how did you break that?First one probably got too hot and broke against rebar, literally a chunk of the tip came off. The second one was a mistake because I didn't immediately noticed the first one had broke so I changed for newer bit and tried to drill the same hole and since there were broken carbide inside it rekt the new one as soon as I pressed the switch.
>>2918691I always treated bits as disposable like angle grinder disks but coworkers babysit the tools and got their panties on a twist when I broke them. Like the company is going to go bankrupt if they have to buy a few more drill bits every week.
>>2917401Tyvek suits are great. You can keep reusing them, putting them on & taking them off, and then you don't have to be a dirty motherfucker for the rest of the day. At least a dust mask and gloves, too. Goggles are meh if you have trouble with fogging up. Just do a good sun squint while you're down there. A respirator and safety glasses would be ideal. Probably just old wood in combination with poor ventilation and perhaps poor water drainage. You probably won't find a black mold mine or something.
>>2918711Why not just do things the way they want so everyone is happy? Why do you need to rush? You're getting paid to do what they tell you, are you not? Are you not gonna get paid the same to rush or be patient? Chill out and do a good job in a determined manner. You could use the self discipline anyway.
>>2918713>Just ruin your arms drilling for 10 min/per hole when you can just apply a ton of bodyweight pressure and get it done in 75 secondsBoomers begone.
>>2918712Being able to not put the disgusting shit you crawl through into your washer is ideal. You may believe the washer is a magical appliance that makes all the "bad stuff" go away, but that's not true. It just gets diluted into the rest of your clothes and accumulates into the washer itself, so pretty soon your wife's crotch is soaking up the rat shit and piss from her "clean" panties because you crawled under your house.
>>2918714Why are you even in the trades if you don't want to work out on the job? Not having to go to the gym is a huge perk for manual labor jobs. Go be an office cuck, my goodness.
>>2918716>Why are you even in the tradesOnly people who would hire me.
I was a neet for a long time but got my shit together and have been working as a door technician for a while now and saving every penny while at it even though the wage is pretty bad.
One thing I realized is that I don't actually mind working and I'm surprisingly competent and also got me thinking of going solo and branching out into general handyman stuff.
Considering most dudes can't even be bothered to change their oil filters, change the light fixtures, fix the broken gutters or even fuck their wives do you think there's still a market to do it? Is the tool and components investment that much money?
Thanks in advance.
>>2919128You’d be amazed how incompetent the average person is, and how much it costs to hire a real licensed plumber or electrician or whatever to do these <1hr jobs that require minimal brains. It’s a couple hundred bucks to get somebody to show up and closer to $1000 if they do any real work for half a day.
Go on NextDoor and Facebook and look what people are asking for help with. A bunch of the stuff doesn’t require much for tools. Git gud with a multimeter and you can do so much. Drywall repair is an easy one that takes <$50 in tools and random people don’t know who to call. I made $250 the other day repairing a closet door track, installing a ceiling fan, swapping a light switch, and a couple other 10min jobs at this lady’s condo. It was probably 4 hours work, and it would’ve been less if it weren’t for this heavy ass custom glass closet door that a previous handyman installed incorrectly so I had to play around with assorted nuts and bolts to get it to work.
I’m at a crossroads now too, trying to get down on a new gig. One I interviewed for is general maintenance at some big condo complex and the big boss sounded like he wanted a full on HVAC tech who didn’t mind snaking toilets. Anyway if I get a gig like that, I’m definitely going to try and pile on the side jobs with residents. I have been doing a bunch of HVAC studying too where I’m so tempted to bring my fresh EPA certs and get some 410A and go shadetree air conditioner tech.
>>2910020 (OP)What's the name of this bolt?
fucknuts
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>>2919244Some kind of security tamper proof bullshit, it looks one way so you can't take it off even if you get the installation bit, no option but to cut some flats on it and then get a wrench round it. Here's a similar one I found.
Pull it off and put a real nut on instead.
how can i search my walls for mold without ripping open walls? i figured i could pop open outlets or ac ducts or something but they all seem to have metal between them and the wood that surrounds then
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how would i get this box out to look around it for signs of mold?
>>2919356It’s probably held on to the stud with 2 nails, one on top and one on the bottom. So you would have to pry it off the stud and probably never get it back on the stud without ripping the drywall apart.
For your purposes, you might be better off just cutting drywall somewhere else and repair it later. Or get a cheap borescope and drill some like 3/8” holes to inspect because those will be easy to fill.
>>2919381could i just cut away about 50% of the box material with a multitool?
>>2918659I think there are a lot of factors that determine how hard and strong concrete is going to be. Generally, the sds bits send right through it, but not all the time. All bits are consumable. You can try to keep the tips from overheated or getting pulverized.
>>2919512Punch it straight back and pry it off the stud with a cats paw. You'll probably just replace it with an old work box because you won't be able to nail it back.
>>2918696cents turn into dollars
if youre plowing through bits, maybe grab a couple and rotate through them so they have cooling time. unless the job is being charged like $1000/hr, im sure your boss would appreciate you taking an extra minute or three to save a $20 here and a $50 there
any plumbers here can tell me if flushing hair down toilet will cause clogs? i live in a 100year old rental home so im sure the place had suffered lots of abuse over the years.
my gf cut off my long hair and insisted its fine to flush a bunch of it down the toilet. i just found out our other roommate has been flushing tampons down the toilet as well /smdh
Redpill me on multimeters and why should I spend 800€ on a gossen metrawatt
>>2910065We'll ain't that just the bottom calling his top a faggot
>>2912941I always do the wax free rings in problem areas
Reading the directions right side up would obviously help too lmaoooo
>>2919356Reciprocating saw the nails off
Just run a recip blade between the box and stud then remove the box
Use an oldwork box for the replacement
>>2919128You need an SEO optimized website, a Google biz posting and insurance
A few hundred a month in AdWords will get you calls
>>2918711Menards sells SDS bits by the hammer drills for like $7/pc
I wouldn't worry about it beyond getting a couple and a cup of water/oil and rotating to keep them cool
>>2919844>any plumbers here can tell me if flushing hair down toilet will cause clogs?Three things go in the toilet;
Pee
Poop
Paper (toilet paper)
I've had to remove the bowl from the floor because my bowl-snake couldn't disloge a swab-stick lodged across the outlet of the bowl.
The toilet woild work fine a time or two then clog again.
I took a photo of it but can't find it at the moment.
P P P
>>2919846>why should I spend 800€ on a gossen metrawattyou shouldn't. buy a cheap multi and use it till it dies. a better choice would be a multi with an added amp clamp
what the fuck should I write in a flyer if I'm basically a monkey with a home electricity certificate?
Anyone make their own grit soap? I'm tired of fast orange taking 20 pumps to get grime off but too cheap to spend $60 on a gallon of some of the industrial stuff I've used at work. I do have a small bottle of Kresto with walnut shells and it's really rough and effective, better than the similar (discontinued) stuff we have at work.
So I'm thinking I'll get walnut blasting media and mix it but dish soap is all I can think of. Maybe just adding it to the fast orange would be more effective?
>>2918659Lmao another drill bites the dust, this one broke inside the fucking chuck and we couldn't get it out for hours.
Tbf though this one was a made in china bosch bit and just broke inexplicably and without any abuse.
>>2920305This lil nigga is way too powerful and just chews through bits.
What's a table design that mice/rats won't be able to climb onto?
>>2920323A table with a solid metal top with a metal cover you put over it when you're not sat at it.
Or I guess you could have it up on vertical pipe legs that are greased regularly, away from any walls or trees.
>>2918711>hitting rebarYeah, you're fucked. You need to alternate with rebar cutting bits I guess.
>>2920323Exterminatus, then build whatever kind of table you want.
what makes manufacturing sockets in the USA so expensive?
I see lots of USA made ratchets for prices comparable to nicer taiwan ratchets, but when it comes to sockets, the taiwan stuff is the same quality and absolutely blows all the cheaper USA made sockets out on price. what's the deal?
>>2920323Boy, what a stupid question. Either smooth, seamless metal or glass. Can't put bench seats down or they'll just jump. There are some agricultural documents that provide limitations on their movement ranges, such as jump height, etc., but I can't remember them.
>>2920118Find a few horse chestnut trees and raid them when they drop their nuts to make conker soap.
>>2920362Unions and worker’s comp insurance. Also the fact that most USA sockets aren’t sold through high volume mainstream realtors. I mean Craftsman was able to sell USA sockets through the 90s and early 00s for an affordable price when they were moving a large quantity but now all you’re left with is companies like Proto charging $$$$ and selling through industrial suppliers.
Short of replacing this floor board along the wall.
What can be done to make sure tac strips don't fail if I get carpet in the future ?
What if I cut the ends from soda cans and rivet a double layer of aluminum?
Should I quit my job? The people in charge of training and supervising my work are retarded minorities and all I end up doing is fetching tools or waiting until they give me some stupid task to do otherwise I just end up waiting and staring at my phone and honestly I the wage is very bad. The work itself could be cool to learn and has various disciplines from electrical to electronic to fabrication but as is now it's ridiculous. Plus I have to drive them everywhere which sucks.
>>2913055Use concrete blocks laying sideways so there are air holes and a flat surface, then finish it with dry stacked stone and the air will go between the stones and through the concrete block and into your fire
>>2920548Probably just lift the quarter round and staple the crap out of that edge of the carpet.
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is this stain sign of water damage? can there be mold growth around there? feels dry
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another photo under the house
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now im thinking. the leaky pipe was from the upstairs bathroom. it seems totally possibly that the leak started in the middle of the house and theb some water drained straight down to the mild/middle puddle of soft mud, meanwhile a bunch of water traveled elsewhere into the house and over to my bedroom walls and/or ceiling. but i imagine there would be signs like wet wood under my bedroom floor. the wood under my room looks water stained but feels dry.
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wet spot
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would it be a reasonable request to ask landlord to punch some holes in my wall to search for mold? esp considering previous tenant already has holes in here?
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previous tenant also fucked up the floor with water damage pretty bad by sleeping on a mattress with no bedframe below, so i cut out a square of floorboard in here to inspect below and it looked fine.
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^^^i didnt take pics under floorboard when i pulled that square out but it looked like fresh brown, unstained wood.
water damage in roommates room 25ft over ?from a pipe leaking in upstairs unit bathroom?
when im gone for more than 24hrs and come back home, my room smells musty. ive been leaving my windows open anytime i am home
>>2920784SORRY FOR OUT OF ORDER POST:
my third post shoukd have been:
>and then about 15feet away (a whole bedroom over) weve had a leaking pipe for a few months that just got fixed. i wasnt home when landlords workers fixed the pipe, but my roommate said "it was leaking like crazy", but he exaggerates a lot. none of the wood or pipes felt wet but this puddle is still wet.> im wondering if three months of leaky pipe could have re-activated previous mold growth in the house
>>2920783Yes. That looks like water damage. Only way to know if there's mold is to look on the other side of those boards. Anytime you have water damage that's still wet put as many fans as you can on it and leave them for a few days longer than you think is fully dry. Apply no heat or you'll get mold.
>>2920790Is there a reason you think you have mold?
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will these trailer light clips ground out wires and cause bulbs to burn out. also my cheap grounding wire keeps tearing off. would that also cause the bulbs to burn out?
I have a tiler doing my shower and it looks pretty even so far but after he left today, I went to look at where the row of tiles where the ceiling and wall meets look really poorly cut. Is this normal or should I get him to redo this? Can it be redone without damaging the surrounding tiles?
>>2920842>will these trailer light clips ground out wires and cause bulbs to burn out.no
>>2920842>my cheap grounding wire keeps tearing off. would that also cause the bulbs to burn out?no
>>2920847>should I get him to redo this?No. Once he cleans out the lines and grouts it, it will look fine.
It may still look less than perfect to you because you can't 'unsee' it but no one else will notice.
>>2920850I don't know if cleaning out the lines will make the edges any less jagged. There's no thinset spilling out in the picture unless I'm misunderstanding what cleaning out the lines entails. I ended up giving him a call about and he said the jagged edges would be covered by silicone so I won't see it. That makes sense I guess? I was just surprised to see how jaggedly cut these tiles are given how straight some of the tiles in the wall to wall corner are cut lengthwise
>>2920849what would cause trailer bulbs to burn out?
>>2920824ive been out of town for months. i was sneezing a lot when i came home a month ago but that could coincide with spring allergies but after being home for a while i now have a bad cough.
roommate with water damage floorboards is never home. and another roommate in the back who is a hypocondriac and swears there is mold
>>2920872cheap bulbs
over-voltage
vibration
>>2920086>you shouldn't.Right, should I get a benning instead for 230€?
>>2912806Mass loaded vinyl all around. I’d go 2 lbs per square foot for the entire ceiling and then also have the ceiling sheet rocked. You have to consider ventilation in that space between the metal roof and the sheet rock, best to consult with someone. MLV is great but you need 100% coverage on a surface ie you need to be extremely thorough. Use sound-insulating caulk for any small gaps like around ceiling lights.
Once you get some rugs and bed/ sofa inside that will reduce echoing.
Another thought: I remember I once got these little squares of metal with a really sticky backing that you could affix to a metal surface to reduce vibrations and dampen noise transfer. They were like 6x6 squares of aluminum I think, kind of thick. So you’d stick those to the roof on the underside and it’ll help absorb sound energy from the rain and hail. Maybe idk.
>>2920874Sick building syndrome is real. If you guys can feel it and there is water damage, then you must have it. Usually the most simple answer is the right one. It's not even an uncommon situation. I would get another place if I were you. Trying to get your landlord to do a proper remediation is probably going to end in disappointment.
>>2920990unless you're in a high voltage setting, get one of those cheap ass electronic multimeters.the error margin isn't that big and should be good enough for home instalations
yes
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>>2920990depends. I'm using a beha hex60-D, cheap and gets the job done. no true rms though, but who cares
>>2921096>>2921212I don't even have a use for it, just want to have it in my toolbox.
I had my water line replaced because it burst and flooded my property overnight. When the water was turned back on, they discovered a slow leak coming from under the house (slab, some inaccessible crawl space under the addition).
They told me they'd have to re-pipe the entire house. Does that seem right? They quoted 4k (small, one bathroom house). Not sure how to proceed from here... can't they just replace whatever pipes may be the issue?
>>2921298They sell pipe, anon. Of course they want to sell you more pipes. Find more contractors and tell them, they'll keep undercutting each other unless they don't wanna do it.
Anyone here ever dealt with an Italian tool brand called "Beta"?
>>2921343Yes, pretty common around here. Boomer dad has a couple pliers and screwdrivers and they are pretty decent.
>>2921345Thanks, looking at some of their wrench sets to replace some old Craftsman stuff I have that is getting worn out.
sketch
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For reasons I want to make a very simple pendant attachment. The pendant is basically just a small tube.
My idea is to make a very simple spring type that would hold by tension alone (just supported by a drop or two of superglue or something like that).
Now my question is: What can I use for that? Obviously I want some kind of spring steel, so just taking a piece of copper wire or another piece of cord or whatever is out of the question, I just have no idea what to use here. An actual spring from something would be preferable, but I have no idea where I could scavenge it from.
Any ideas?
Oil extractor for gasoline? I've used them at multiple shops in the past to extract gasoline, but the one I purchased says not to extract gasoline with it? Is it a precaution for retards?
>>2921355Have in mind that I'm referring tools that are 30 years old and made in Italy. Quality may have changed and probably they products are made in some asian shithole.
>>2921378It’s probably a warning for retards because of flammability. I know a lot of seals and o-rings don’t love gasoline and other petroleum products, but if it’s good enough for other automotive fluids like oil and brake fluid, it should be fine for gasoline.
>>2921379I think they’re still decent. Most of the time I see that brand, they’re selling the inox tools for special applications and they’re expensive.
Are amazon torque wrenches worth a damn? I'm just getting into wrenching on my car, going to start with a small job.
>>2921556Yes. The expensive ones are a waste of money for DIYers. The cheap ones will still do +/-5% no problem. You’re going to want two of them for automotive, I recommend a 1/2” that goes up to 150-250ft-lbs for big stuff with bearings and bushings and then a 3/8” in inch-lbs or like 5-50ft-lbs for stuff with gaskets.
I have to caulk in an extremely tight gap like 1 inch wide and 4 inch deep. Can I attach something like a clear tubing to my caulk nozzle and get it done decently enough like that? I can't come up with any other solutions. See picrel. Red is where I have to caulk.
>>2921575That's the size I was looking to get. I have a large 1/2" for changing tires, been doing them for years. My cars been reliable but now it's finally time to do some proper work and change the rotors. I'll try to buy something with good reviews, lots of unfamiliar brands. Thanks.
>>2921584There’s some Lexivon ones that are affordable and have been around for awhile, if they’re still being sold they might not be complete shit. Tekton is a solid choice for mid tier, as well as Kobalt and Craftsman at Lowe’s and Husky at Home Depot when they’re on sale like half the year for $50-$60.
Hell, even the <$20 Harbor Freight Pitt torque wrenches aren’t bad for a couple times a year use. Set them back to 0lbs when storing them and you should be fine.
>>2921270>just want to have it in my toolbox.even more reason to *not* spend insane ammounts of money in them. I'm sortof an electrician and my multimeter is barely any better than the one I sent in the pic (
>>2921096), came with a toolkit but would've been roughly 10 bucks on its own. no beeping when measuring conductivity, but the screen shows what you tell it to
Does this have structural strength or would it crumble as soon as any kind of weight is placed on it (e.g., a kid climbing over it or an adult leaning on it)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LttbxuyPJ7A
>>2921600>Does this have structural strengthWeight on top would be fine.
If you fell against it, it would fall over.
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>>2921270There’s a million good multimers from $30 for Chinese brands up to like $150 for name brands that aren’t Fluke. Plus it depends on the application you’re using it for, there’s no single meter that’s great at everything.
Like I have this discontinued Southwire 400A AC/DC clamp meter that’s in my go-bag and it’s probably the #1 most used because it’s fairly compact. But then there’s a big Uni T 1000A meter with all of the features like inrush current and a bar graph, but the bar graph is less useful than I expected to be. That giant clamp meter is hard to fit in some wiring spots though, and I don’t think either of the clamps have a 10A fused slot to read lower current in series. And then the regular Klein meter is the easiest to read by far but no clamp, and the clamp meters both have a small readout for the overall size of the meter. And finally the $7 Hyper Tough clearance meter, it’s great because it gets the job done but the display is meh, but I can always have it around since I don’t have to worry about wrecking a $7 meter
Anyone know if the ink used to stamp untreated lumber in US mills might produce toxic fumes when burned? I got a buddy at a lumber yard who told me I could pick up broken 2x4 from him whenever I wanted but they have stamps pretty much every 12 inches and I dont want to breathe that shit in if it's toxic (I know that construction lumber produces a lot of smoke and soot but I'm talking about an outdoor firepit I don't mind since it's free)
How important is it that I finish wood? I bought some little drawer that is unfinished. It's not going outside or in the bathroom.
>>2921929>How important is it that I finish wood? super duper important
say you splash some ketchup on it, but dont notice until a week later
that stain is there forever
also, the wood will begin to look dull and old after a few months
also, it'll absorb bad smells from food, smoking, etc
so, definitely prime it, stain it, or varnish it
>>2921934>stain itDo I need to stain it? I like the color. I'm sure there's a stain in a similar color though.
>>2921937>I like the colorstain is used when you DONT like the color
or want a more exotic look, like cherry
There's a small nightstand I want but it just happens to be a tad bit too tall for where I want to put it. Is there a good method to chop the legs down evenly? Just need like half an inch off or so.
>>2921945Thanks for the help.
>>2921964Obviously if you had something like a belt sander or a table saw, you wouldn't be asking, right?
Mark it carefully with a square, and hacksaw all the legs off, leaving maybe a mm to play with. Then put it on something flat, see which feet rock, and file them down until it's level. If you go too far, put that leg at the back and shim it with some paper. Might be nice to put a level on the top when you get close to see which corners still need more work.
>Old style Andersen mechanism
How to remove?
I'm wanting to build something like pic related, with lighting under the lid and glass.
Is fucking around with battery powered led lighting even worth it to get enough brightness to make a difference? Or should I just run a cord to a wall outlet and hide it under a rug? I'd be putting the table in front of a pull out couch so while moving it wouldn't be a daily occurrence it would just be kind of a pain in the ass
>>2922160LEDs don’t draw a ton of power and there are so many options that run off USB. You could easily create an accessible hiding place for a big USB power bank and recharge it once every couple weeks as needed. If you’re going to have light on 12hra/day or more though, I would do 120V with a plug. USB power bank would be good if you’re running it like a couple hours a day.
Would you show up to a job site with this?
How in the holy fuck do I measure my fucking windows for a replacement screen
I dont have the old screen
Every fucking guide online says completely different things
I've spent $100 on frame kits because the measurements NEVER FUCKING COME OUT RIGHT
>>2922712>How you get an adjustable one that you cut and assemble to the exact size
What are some good brands for electric tank water heaters? Preferably something with a long warranty period.
>>2922793>you get an adjustable one that you cut and assemble to the exact size>$98You can do that with the ones from Home Depot for a lot less.
from 36" up to 60" kits in white or bronze
buy the smallest kit that's larger than your window
they also sell frame parts and mesh by the roll separately
I have one of these things, someone in the house insists on using it, never the one that cleans it. Pain in the ass. But it has a ton of stuck on carbon, any ez mode tips to get that shit off?
>>2922849Oven cleaner? It might help to get it a little warm first but since it looks non-stick, you probably don't want to scrub it with anything too abrasive.
>>2910020 (OP)why not just take a hammer to your hammer and hammer it straight.
>>2922861https://mechanicradar.com/why-you-should-never-hit-two-hammers-together/
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>>2922849>it has a ton of stuck on carbon,
>>2922870>>2922861Yellow cap oven cleaner did good on a first pass but a second pass was less useful. There's still some stuck on but I think I'd have to scrape it with a plastic scraper to get it off as is.
Maybe after the next time they use it I'll take another shot with the yellow cap. Maybe it'll have a suspicious accident and be rendered unusable.
Can something like this
https://fairtools.co.nz/products/ecoflow-river-2-max-portable-power-station-500w-512wh?
Be used to jumpstart my car? I need a light weight portable battery for living in my van but ideally big enough to jump start the car so I never get in a dumb situation.
>>2910020 (OP)>straight 90° clawA formwork hammer?
>>2923000No, it'll have all kinds of safety shit going on so it can't even deliver a mediocre 10 amps, let alone the 200+ you need to start a car.
You can buy small jump starters which have a bunch of cells hooked up directly to the output to give you 1600A. They're not very big, and they're not very heavy, and you can charge it with the big battery.
I've also heard of people jumpstarting their shit with just regular 18V drill batteries these days.
>>2923005I have one od those power banks that can jumpstart a car, and it works on my sedan but not my larger van. Both 12v batteries I think. There is the ecoflow delta they claim can. But after the one I have failing I'm dubious. I should probably just check my battery and ask the manufacturer.
>>2923000>>2923005>>2923012https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlK7UWHD3sY
Any drawbacks/consequences from leaving a lithium ion tool battery on the charger for extended periods of time, like possibly weeks?
Bought a cordless screwdriver to keep in my office so I wouldn't have to go get my tools to do stupid little fix-it shit, but it gets used very infrequently. The battery might sit on the charger for weeks at a time before getting used. Would this cause any problems for the battery long term? Like constantly monitoring the battery charge lowering life span or something?
>>2923270It really depends on the charger. Personally I take all my batteries out of the charger once they're charged, to avoid garbage circuitry just recharging it to 100% every time it ticks down to 99%.
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Does anyone know what this is? I want to say it's siding but not sure. Material seems synthetic not wood. It's been outside for 2 months of an abandoned apartment that needs serious renovations. Each plank is roughly 1/4" thick, about 10ft long.
>>2923284Replying to myself but I think this might be fiber cement trim? The top sides are totally smooth so not meant to look like wood or anything. I can get exact measurements in a bit.
>>2923270It should be fine. I’m sure there’s some circuitry built into the charger that won’t even begin a charge unless a minimum voltage is seen, like 4.1V/cell. Or it requires you to remove the battery and put it in again to check the voltage and begin a cycle. And if you charge a healthy battery up to 4.2V/cell, good cells will take months to discharge enough to start another charge cycle.
I’ve left batteries on chargers for a long time and never seen them begin another charge cycle without taking the pack off the charger, so best guess is they will sit there “complete” indefinitely unless you lose power or take the pack off.
>>2923284It's pre-finished fiber cement lap siding.
>>2923352Much appreciated, anon.
How can I build the ultimate neighbor disturber ever? I need to take vengeance on some retarded drug addicts. Ideally something I can stick to walls or ceiling and make huge thumping sounds or just general annoyance is good too
What plastics are the best for casting? I see HDPE can be heated and pressed, but it looks like I need resins to do better work.
>>2921583You could probably shove surgical tube to the caulk tip. You just need a longer straw.
my parents got their backyard renovated and the contractor must have used the front lawn as staging becuase i am finding pockets of small gravel sized rocks in the lawn and i am wondering if these are commonly left behind. i am under impression that rocks on lawn are a bad thing becuase they may fly out and ding cars and break windows when hit with lawn mower. do we need to approach contractor about meticulously picking these up?
i bought a loud dehumidifier off craigslist. i guess loud means the unit is dying. its still pulling water out of the air but im wondering if the loud noise is due to inefficiencies that are also skyrocketing the electricity consumption of the device.
>>2923447just get a rock rake and rake your lawn and flatten it after, adding more seeds, fertilizer and topsoil, not necessarily in that order. taking care of your lawn was not on the contractor's contract I imagine, and cleaning up after themselves outside of the specific jobsite they worked on is also not their job usually.
>>2923521loudness is usually bearings or dust or dying motor.
>>2923528is it causing the machine to consume excess energy and run inefficiently or will it just stop and die one day?
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this spare tire fell off my trailer and dragged down 3miles of crusty asphalt at about 35mph. it slowy went flat over the next 10hours. what would cause this? the little bends in the rim? if i can get it to hold air, is it fit for use as a spare tire?
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sidewall damage
>>2923779>>2923780soapy water and/or a garden hose will tell you where it's leaking
>>2923748yes, bad bearings will cause the motor to work harder, and things will wear faster and you get less out of it.
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can this be patched and used off hwy for small trips around town, mostly on private property and dirt roads? can it be patched and used as a spare?
>>2923782i should mention that i found the hole
>>2923823A repair shop won't do it because it's a sidewall.
If you promise to only use it as a spare tire and essentially never really drive on it for more than 5 miles, and promise you won't kill anyone with it, okay fine, go ahead and shove one of those repair kits in there
Is there any way of working out if my underfloor heating is electric or part of the central heating?
The guy who installed it before I bought the house was probably retarded, it's maybe 10-15 years old and was added for a small section of the kitchen.
I'm maybe 80% sure it isn't wet, I can't find a manifold and I've never heard a pump or rushing water under there, but maybe smaller bore systems are quieter? If it is electric, I've got no idea what circuit it's even on. I've never been able to turn it off successfully after trying every switch in the kitchen, and there's no visible thermostat anywhere. The best I can tell, it just comes on automatically when it's cold, but obviously I can't test that right now. I can't pull the floor up, and there's no obvious wires or pipes running into it.
>>2923871>i've never been able to turn it off successfully after trying every switch in the kitchendumb
you need to do that at the breakers
google ''binary search'' for quickest way to determine which breaker (if any) is used
>>2923885That's an issue if none of the circuits are labelled with it. It could be hacked into the heating circuit, but that's probably older. It could be on the downstairs lights, it could be on the sockets, and regardless, I can't do any of this without it being cold enough to test, which it obviously isn't.
>>2923825i can shove a sidewall plug in there? or a thick tire patch?
>>2923871>turn off all large appliances when heating is on>see if your power meter is registering any significant consumption still>turn off power to everything except central heating>see if it turns off>put some wireless power sensing device to the floor, see if it beeps (will only work if it was installed close to the floor surface, and probably only when it's on)>trace the edges of the heating zone with a heat camera, see if any hot pipes run out from itAs you can see, all of these only work when it's heating or should be heating. You can't hear any even remotely well designed wet UFH systems. The thermostat, if electric, is probably somewhere hidden in the wall or in/behind cabinets.
>>2923924It needs to be broken down and a real patch put on the inside.
>>2923931>The thermostat, if electric, is probably somewhere hidden in the wall or in/behind cabinets.>monitoring inside the walls or cabinets to see if the floor heater need to be onbaka
>>2923924This
>>2923937Patching sidewalls is shitty and you’re going to have to dismount the tire to have any chance at it.
https://imgur.com/a/messed-up-doorframe-help-lyLoh16
I'm accepting all ideas on how to fix my fucked up doorframe
I want it to look clean since I'm moving my desk out to this room. At the very least weatherproofed and smooth. I might have to form a mould around it and fill with plaster or cement or something.
>>2924313dismount the door from the frame
remove the frame from the wall
replace damaged wood
reinstall frame
reinstall door into frame
>>2924313>https://imgur.com/a/messed-up-doorframe-help-lyLoh16Did it occur to you that this is an image board.
Anons post images HERE and ask questions related to the image.
>>2924329image limit+6 image album
This isn't altchan where you can upload galleries with a 15mb size
I did some research on insulating materials to use in the construction of my future (wooden) house, including recycled, treated materials like denim and cellulose.
after collecting data for a couple of months, I realized I hadn't included the most common insulating material used in my country, expanded polystyrene (EPS). turns out it's the cheapest per area and the absolute best in terms of performance relative to price. is there a prize for this?
from my calculations, recycled paper aka cellulose would be the best If sound dampening is considered but only if I pumped it myself, but even if I wanted it, I can't find suppliers in my area...
another consideration I have is how fire proofing/retarding.
I have a few questions:
- how do I make the walls sound insulating/proof? should I add some heavy material to the mix?
- EPS panels don't seem to be fire retardant/resistant. how do I make them so? can intumescent paint be applied on these panels?
- how do builders manage humidity with these things?
>>2923939Thermostats don't necessarily have their sensors built in, the sensor can be anywhere.
>>2925699>is there a [downside] for this?No, EPS is used everywhere because it's the cheapest for the performance.
>how do I make the walls sound insulating/proof?Add soundproofing layers, mass-loaded vinyl or mineral wool or whatever.
>EPS panels don't seem to be fire retardant/resistantThey make retarded panels, but normally people just use it as is. If fire resistance is critical for you, then use mineral wool instead of EPS.
>how do builders manage humidity with these things?They don't, EPS lets very little moisture through. You're supposed to ventilate your house, on the high end people install central HRV/dehumidifier units. On the low end, buy windows with vents installed, open windows sometimes, maybe install a positive pressure vent.