Old thread died right after I asked >>2908254 so here’s a new wwg I guess

Post woodworking related questions, projects, ideas etc.

>resources
https://rentry.co/trc3fwya

>>2918565 (OP)
OP question: this thing warped up due to water.

It’s mostly back flat after 2 days in the sun but not totally. I can plane the bottom flat but the top is shiny coated and I’d like to preserve that. Would it help to clamp it flat for a few days? Maybe make it wet before doing so?

>>2918566
There is definitely an art to flattening warped boards with applied moisture and heat. It looks like your laminated board has two pieces right next to each other (where the board curves the most) with grain going the same way. Isn't grain supposed to alternate? Perhaps you should apply a moist rag to the short side of the board and leave it in the sun in hopes the short side will absorb more moisture to lengthen those wood cells while the backside might dry up and shorten those wood cells. Then probably keep it clamped so it doesn't change once it gets there. Not an expert, tho.

>>2918628
Oh yes, the other thing you can do if the backside will not be seen is to put kerfs (run a circular saw) on the backside that run with the grain to take the tension out, then clamp it flat and run glued strips of wood into those kerfs to hold it in place. This was in a book I have to repair a tabletop that's out of flat.

>>2918566
>make it wet before doing so
op you realise that common wood glue fails, especially under load, if the wood moisture rises too much

>>2918680
the only glues between wood pieces I've seen not fail due to excess moisture are some CA glues and some epoxy resin adhesives, even the most exterior rated weather and water resistant PVA glues fail :(

>>2918683
Phenol/urea based resin glues are the best glues, but they don’t trust average citizens with them.
That’s what they bond plywood plys together with

>>2918685
yeah PRF is structural weatherproof adhesive, but how the heck are normal people like me supposed to get their hands on them...

>>2918685
>urea based resin glues are the best glues
ebay exists, but im not particulary impressed by them. Like for all others, there is a time and place
Here are some downsides that make it incredible annyoing to work with
>opened bottle cures and forms skin with trapped air
>relative weak
>contact allergene
>permanently ruins your clothes
>squeeze out not water soluble
>foams up, soils corner joints

>>2918688
they're really not meant for interior furniture making glue. they use them for finger jointing lumber, gluelams, etc. as well as those butcher block countertops made out of cutoff sticks you can find at home depot.

>>2918687
just find a seller who doesnt care about the law.
>>2918690
yea its widely used as construction adhesive here and sometimes for outdoor "furniture"

>>2918690
>those butcher block countertops made out of cutoff sticks you can find at home depot.
>use phenol/urea formaldehyde resin glue
I guess I shouldn't be surprised given the ubiquity of HDF/MDF/Plywood furniture and flooring, but the thought of that kind of thing in a food-contact butcher block countertop is still a bit appalling to me.

>>2918693
> phenol/urea glue
> food contact
Not just food contact, they off-gas formaldehyde into the air, especially when new.

https://i.imgur.com/LQiBND5.jpeg

Am i better off using these, left, "insert" like or, right, single piece like end mills?
Application will be mostly beech and multiplex boards up to 20mm, 4/5inch in a plain router. And yes, it'll be the cheapest, chinkiest fuckers till i broke enough of them to know better.

>tfw can't even upload images anymore

>>2918851
Yeah, I'd get the kind like that of the left.

>>2918836
There is research showing that some laminate flooring off-gas formaldehyde for years after installation when it was purchased new and recently manufactured.

and now what? Real wood also off-gasses VOCs and formaldehyde.
If you live in a House older than 35 years theres a big chance the boomer builder used copious amounts of coal tar destilate products as wood protection (windows, roof, everywhere), and that shit will off-gas and poison the room air for basically until it all gets torn down

>>2918887
so basically the only true solution is to have proper air circulation and ventilation all-year, and maybe introduce some carbon filters and HEPA filters into the path of the central air, whether AC or Furnace. And have lots of nice filtering plants around the house. And get out more often.

>>2918889
i just wanted to imply if you actually care about all this then you have to do research and start from scratch instead of hyper fixing on just a small slice of the entire cake brought to your attention by the internet.

>>2918887
>real wood
I wouldn't imply man-made wood *products* are "real wood" unless I was trying to trick somebody. Timbers aren't off gassing shit unless you fuck with them.

>>2918900
>Timbers aren't off gassing shit unless you fuck with them
yea its called sawing and planning. Without writing an essay, just look at where turpentine comes from

>>2918683
>>2918685
>>2918690
One can get resorcinol glue easily even as a consumer but it’s normally €120/kg, while epoxy adhesives are €60/kg and quality PU glues around €40. All of which are perfectly waterproof btw. The resorcinol needs 5 times the clamping pressure of PU, flows poorly and is a pain to handle manually as >>2918688 wrote. So it’s a bad fit for consumer/hobbyist stuff. Professionals can’t use it because of vocs unless they have insane workshop ventilation or respirators so theres little reason anyone would want to use it over epoxy/pu outside of automated industrial process in machines with hydraulic clamping and negative pressure

If I remember correctly it off gasses like 99.95% during curing

So I’m installing a pergola and used those titan deck foot anchors. Where do you guys think I should put the shims to get my post plumb. Under the metal post holder between it and the plate? Or set the holder and then put my shims under the 6x6 once it’s in the holder? I’ll be using composite shims

>>2919060
Definitely between the metal and the wood.

>>2919069
Actually, wait. It's not a totally flat surface, you've got a 1" standoff, so don't do that. You should use quikrete on the top of the gravel to level it out and tamp if you haven't. Just put the quikrete on dry and it'll harden later. I dunno what the pros do now, but plastic shims seems pointless between gravel and metal. You're supposed to cap the gravel with sand to level it out. Quikrete is just a nice way to lock it together.

>>2919060
Between the metal and the bottom of the wood. If it’s not totally flat or flush with the metal it’s ok, your lag screws that I hope you’re planning to install will handle all the load and prevent movement.

>>2919060
I would put coppercoat on the exposed end grain even though the base holds you off the ground. Decks always rot in the same places, where they should have been flashed, by the ground, and end grain. If they're left untreated, they rot everywhere over time.

My bases are always bolted to concrete footings and I just shim between the post and the base.

>>2919105
> coppercoat end grain
I’m thinking that will corrode the zinc on the baseplate, no?

>>2919105
>My bases are always bolted to concrete footings
When you mean base, do you mean a metal plate base or a concrete pier block? If you had the concrete pier blocks, how would you fasten them to a concrete footing?

>>2919119
> corrode base plate
That zinc coated metal baseplate that OP showed.
I assume CCA wouldn’t be good for a piece of rebar sticking up thru the concrete pier into a pressure treated 4x4 either

Anyone ever make a traditional tail vise? I'm wanting to try it out for my new bench (old bench, which is an english style, is ok, but I want a longer one after doing two large tables that had lots of creatively supported planing as a result of the short bench). I was thinking of doing it because it seems fun to make, and would be a little less squirrely than just a planing stop. It does feel like these tail vises have fallen out of fashion.

>>2919130
I was going to make one but threading a big dowel rod and the threads in the wooden jaws was too daunting and I don’t have CNC lathes. Or and lathe, for that matter.

>>2919130
>It does feel like these tail vises have fallen out of fashion
its just cost cutting

>>2919119
The base is the metal thing. It's more important for my purposes to have a footing. A footing is a column of concrete underneath the base. The footings have to go so far into the ground depending on how much weight they're holding up. They have a deck and people and stuff on top of that deck to hold up that would otherwise sink into the dirt. An overhead gazebo thing won't have this issue.

>>2919521
Okay. Question for you. Maybe you know. We have a deteriorating gazebo in the backyard. It was built as a "deck" with a "shed" on top, but it looks like an eight-sided gazebo with a deck floor. It's a stick built frame. There is a stick built box "shed" on the backside and four posts on the front, but like I said, it's all sitting on the deck. There is only about 12" of space underneath the deck with no ventilation so everything is rotted out. I want to move the construction away from a stick built to post & beam type construction. I obviously am going to have footers eventually, but what I want to know is how would you tie the girders/joists onto the posts without compromising the post's ability to support the roof? Do I just need big posts, like 6x6, so I can hog out enough of a mortise would a 4x6 cut it? I haven't found much info on using posts to support a deck floor and a roof as well. It seems like everyone assumes you terminate the post, lay the beam or girder on top and then lay another post on top of that, bit it seems like one vertical member would be stronger and easier to maintain. Thoughts?

>>2919585
The original posts are 4x4, btw.

No one posting project pics so here’s one found some use for those OSB scraps and old slats that were taking up space. O-shaped bench, putting tiles over it

>>2919644
This is the inspiration. Seems people ask $400 for one on Etsy

I've been getting into whittling, not for any practical reason, I just wanted to do something creative. And it's going worse than I thought, people on yt make it seem so easy as if they are working butter with hot knife or something, but I've been having hard time controlling blade and I get bogged down shaving off really small pieces all the time.

>>2919646
Working with wood is like half hand strength guided by technique and half sharp tools in my experience. Workholding can be pretty helpful, too, but I dunno how whittlers do that. Get good at sharpening your shit (especially as you use your tools) and I bet it'll be a lot easier.

>>2919646
I would also go with not sharp enough. For the art kind of whittling/carving they use power strippers and buffing wheels to get the knives razor sharp

The control part is a lot of muscle memory but also getting to know your blade and wood. If you try different wood species each time it’s a lot more difficult.

>>2919585
You're going to need to show pictures of what you're trying to do.

>>2919646
Getting your tools deathly sharp is half of the battle.

>>2919646
Consider shit wood or shit tools
sharp is not sharp, tool grind is as important

>>2919645
damn, nice find. not /wwg/ but i've been looking at making ceiling medallions. a mold and some plaster nets you $100+ easily

>>2919644
> Uses 50 screws
> Fire extinguisher
> smock
> No american tools
> neat and safe area
European

>>2919816
Also using drywall screws instead of wood screws.

>>2919775
deco molding is very expensive also
go make some scratch

>>2919060
Pergola finished and came out nicely. Anchors did well. There’s just a lot of wiggle in it so I guess I need to add some 45deg pieces. Can I get away with just 4 angles parallel to the front or do I need 2 angled pieces at each corner, one in each direction for full stability? Also is there a suggested length in the pieces or just whatever looks proportional? I’ll probably use a 6x6 post to match

>>2919855
>I need 2 angled pieces at each corner, one in each direction for full stability
fundamentally that would add more stability if done correctly. They don't need to be too long either, about 1/4th to 1/6th the height of your 6x6 posts should suffice for the length of the 45 degree pieces. You could also add extra metal "decorative" structural pieces like pic related.

>>2919816
Euro indeed. Had a box of 300 drywall screws lying around but not 300 wood screws, should be fine I guess. Scrapwood stove in the back is right next to the lumber cart so the extinguisher isn’t a luxury

>>2919855
Both directions, but can be pretty small. You may want to add them in the horizontal plane as well so that it doesn’t wiggle in rotation (try pushing one corner towards the next one at the top and see if you need it)

>>2919687
Basically this >>2919862 is exactly what I'm talking about. The posts are holding up the deck and the roof. My gazebo is just like pic rel except it's a roof, not a pergola. Obviously you don't want the deck resting on fasteners, so how do you calculate the amount of material you can mortise out of the posts?

>>2919645
is that actual tiles

>>2919873
Code where I am at least says you can notch a 6x6 post like that up to 2.5 inches max.

>>2919148
On YT, there's a guy called little forest that has a series on making threads by hand, complete with making a dowel sans lathe. I do have a lathe so I will probably use that to make the dowel. But I will be threading by hand since my lathe maxes out on 8 TPI (it's a metal lathe). I'd like 2 TPI to copy other peoples' designs.

>>2919645
Who drinks 3 glasses of milk?

Seems staged.

>>2919936
You should go see an optometrist.

>>2919936
>not a chad aryan conqueror
Ngmi

>>2919646
> people on yt make it seem so easy as if they are working butter with hot knife or something
Let your knife hand/wrist/arm do more of the pushing more instead of just the thumb of the other hand. Bigger chance to slide off so a bit more dangerous at first but after a while gets easier and you can control the rotation better. And sharpen every hour

i have a french vise with oak jaw liner that unfortunately doesnt clamp well at all.
what is a good liner to increase the friction.
Leather? raw hide? rubber? 40 grit finish?
i asume as thin as humanly possible

>>2919936
3 people obviously

>>2919954
>>2920651
>Two more morons who need glasses
They're candles, dipshits.

>>2919646
green wood

>>2920653
>being this soulless

>>2920590
Leather is the traditional thing to add.

>>2920694
I think, today, instead of leather I would get some cheap cutting mat material and use that.
Dollar tree had these small cutting mats, and i just lightly glue them into my vice with rubber cement.

>>2920590
Cork/rubber composite is the modern "more friction" solution.

>>2920833
Had that previously and it sucked

>>2920780
Actually, can you take a pic of your setup? Vises are pretty good, but you can still overcome it if there's enough mechanical advantage. Personally I've never felt the need to add anything to just my softwood jaws.

>>2920886
its a french vise with loose hardware and oak jaw faces


Next quesiton, i fixed up my old backsaw and am converting it to a cross cut saw. its aprox 15tpi (not even) and i filed it with 15° rake for now. Now before i proceed with re-jointing and adding fleam, question to the boomers under us, do you all bother with fleam on cross cut saws? Some influental people claim its a pain in the ass to maintain and not worth it, meanwhile those wo want to sell you saws say the opposite.
And I'd rather ask before removing 1/5th inch blade depth and wearing out another file

>>2921068
> fleam
Yeah, fleam is good. But don’t put it in the area where you usually start the cut (depends on your habits) or you will have trouble and tearout and skipping.

Now i’m going back to trying to sharpen a 25 tpi japanese saw that mangles files due to hardness and probably needs ultra thin ceramic slips. I think it’s got 3 facets/tooth so I’ll be breaking out the microscope. Disposable blade? Not on my watch.

>>2920590
I use rubber non slip mat with 3m self adhesive backing. Unfinished leather works but thin leather easily dries out a bit with sawdust and holds oil/grease/wood resin more than rubber does

>>2921120
how thick?

>>2918565 (OP)
good morning

>>2921224
About 3mm but closer to 2 when tightened

>>2921246
> that nickname
But nice work, how long do you spend on a panel like this?

>>2921249
a couple of days. 4-5 but i take my time and an a slow guy

>>2921246
Y u put bloc quebecquious symbol on it?

>>2921393
I think you're confused: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleur-de-lis

>>2921393
i think it looks very medieval and people don't know what it is anyway ?

>>2921462
Apparently we do.
>>2921393

>>2921557
They use the fleur-de-lis because they're French, you idiots

>>2921568
quebec is in canada retard, not france jfc

>>2921570
Quebec was originally a French colony, moron. It's also why there's always a low-level simmer of talk of secession from Canada there.

>>2921570
They also speak French as their first language there.

>>2921570

>>2921573
>>2921574
>>2921576

>>2921578
>I was just pretending to be stupid to bait you hurr!

>>2920833
>>2920841
update. i tried cork + rubber again as i found the scraps from years ago but this time only on the moveable jaw as Paul Sellers swears by.
What can i say, it just works

do you always look for cedar when making potted plant stands or anything with few coats of PU will endure plants shitting water

>roller slide catching on the screw for the 1000th time

>>2921741
Why not use that plastic deck board material instead of cedar?

>>2921741
- treated pine: $
- anything painted: $
- composite decking board: $$
- white oak: $$
- teak: $$$

>>2921741
Douglas Fir does better than pine if you don't want to pay for cedar and don't want the copper treatment. I like its warm colors better, too, but it will turn grey and black over time in the elements. A traditional lime wash or a borate glycol solution are decent alternatives to the pressurized copper treatment they do to pine. Lime wash from a mature lime putty is excellent, but must be reapplied and it will increase ph and sweeten the soil. The NPS uses the borate solution for the totem poles. If cedar fence boards are cheap in your area, they can be a good way to save some money.

>>2921792
Nta, it certainly has its uses, but it's pretty soulless and this is a woodworking general.

>>2921792
is that like a sheet good that is just plastic

>>2921819
it's a plastic + wood mix https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiberon-ArmorGuard-15-16-in-x-5-1-4-in-x-12-ft-Forest-Brown-Grooved-Edge-Capped-Composite-Decking-Board-BRDAGG-FBR-12/324794497

>>2921803
Black locust heart wood? Can be cheap depending on where you live. Rock elm too. Dunno how much that costs though.

just used a batch of shellac i propably mixed 3 years ago
why do people spread fud that it gets bad after a year?

>>2921838
boomers like to wield stupid shit like this over our heads to sound more authoritative. same useless advice as "tung oil is not real tung oil", "always wipe oily woods with mineral spirits", and "real woodworking is with hand planes"

>>2921812
> wood working general topic police
>>2921838
> talking about resin from the lac bug

Hey, be careful, the topic police say you can’t talk about or mention anything but 100% wood, and need a soulfulidity factor of at least 80%… except for posts by them that are complaining about the topic that have nothing to do with /diy/ or wood.

>>2921843
no one told you not to talk faggot stop acting like a woman who's just been slapped

>>2921843
i certainley posted more projects here in the past than dicks you nibbled on

>>2921839
>real woodworking is with hand planes
woodworking is just an excuse to play with hand planes desu

>>2921852
hand planes are just an excuse for stupid people to sound smart. "oh is that a sweetheart?", "yeah i prefer the frog on my woodriver", "i sharpen my iron to a double micro bevel it's just better that way", "why are you using an amazonbasics plane when you should have bought this $1000 waste littered with comments from 80 year olds about the slop?". handplanefags are the redditors of woodworking

>>2921853
oh and don't forget the classic "you can just buy a $10 plane of craigslist and restore it for cheap!" (cheap being thousands of dollars worth of equipment + time + metal forge)

>>2921853
>>2921855
Skill issue.

>>2921853
for someone clowning the topic you certainly are in real deep with the lingo

>>2921856
>>2921857
i've looked at buying some hand planes. i rent and being able to midnight woodwork is a plus, so i dipped my toe in the water, learned some lingo, and realized the faggotry involved. it's just not for me

>>2921859
i see, you fell for the eternal boomer
>>2921839

>>2921860
nah one day we'll be rid of em, i'm sure of it. you think they're as eternal as hallofcost "survivors"

>>2921862
boomer is a mindset, every minute a new boomer is born

>>2921855
Look into japanese planes.
They’re a block of wood and a blade.

I will admit, however, that the traditional chinese and japanese planes kind of do make fanciful victorian style planes look a bit like somethings homosexuals would enjoy using.

>>2921884
anon doesnt want recomendations, thats just what the boomers do.

>>2921416
I joked about getting a family fleur de lis kitchen hardware and haven't heard from them since.

how much bandsaw do i need to resaw up to like 8"? will 1hp be enough or should i try and max out my 15a breaker?

also lamello or domino? i like the options on the lamello for disassembling or using them as clamps

>>2921859
Anon if you keep up with this attitude you're going to make me regret the $7,390 I've spent on handplanes.

>>2921901
> lamello or domino
These are for making things quickly and cheaply in a pro or maybe even factory setting.
There are probably more of these joiners that have been used once, put away, never to be seen again than all the ones in the world in daily use. What a business model.

Use a spline joint. It’s better in every way.

>>2921959
>making things quickly and cheaply
no shit? that just happens to be exactly what i'm interested in. i'm especially intrigued by lamello's p system biscuits that support disassembling or acting as clamps
>more of these joiners that have been used once
given the domino's popularity i find your statement inaccurate
>Use a spline joint
nah

>>2921901
Domino doesnt have cheap 3rd party options and doesnt allow planar inaccuracies

>>2921980
yeah, it's a proprietary one trick pony but $600 cheaper than the lamello. coplanar inaccuracies would be a problem with any joinery solution, no?

>>2922021
Yeah, but the most general solution is to get one of picrel bits for your router, hog out some random semicirclular areas where you want to make the join and fill it with random 1/4" stock and glue.
You fucking can’t go wrong.

Those lamello and dominos are try-hards trying to build a better mousetrap and lock you into these inflexible proprietary shit.
And they forgot to give-away the razor handle in their razor and blades scam.

>>2922021
>no?
no its not, bisquits have slop along their long axis, it doesnt matter if you miss your mark a millimeter or two, Meanwhile dominos are tighter than drilled dowels
>but $600 cheaper than the lamello
and what the fuck do you need a zeta 2 for? the
dw682k (aka ELU) is less than a fifth and ontop has a more versitile guide.
>proprietary shit
just stop postinging already, this is getting embarrasing

>>2921959
Is Lamello a way to still pay for a proprietary brand, a la Fein oscillating saw, or is there something that sets it apart from contractor grade joiners?

>>2922037
nvm thx

>>2922039
Lamello in invented it, a lot of pros got in early and have a lot of lamello biscuits already, and if their lamello dies they just get another one instead of fucking around and just add a couple of fake hours to the job pay for it. Then you have the opposite situation, tou have the joiners already, so you buy more of the same biscuits instead of the chinese ones that are made of particle board waste, swell too much, and leave humps or cracks where you put them.
It’s like the hotdog and bun scam where they infinitely propagate each other be because you run out of one or the other but not both at the same time.

>>2922039
since the patent ran out nobody innovated on their clones.
the Dewalt i posted is like 40 years old by now with just a paintjob, pretty much the same for the makita. The original brings innovation every couple years that result in miniscule time savings or more precission for the clamex

>>2922037
show me where the domino isn't proprietary retard. anyways, i'm settling on the lamello for the reasons i stated previously. it seems like no one here is experienced with either and i'm just not interested in your faggy alternatives
>>2922030

Would I be foolish to build a work desk out of quality clear eastern white pine, then finish it with shellac?

I was thinking of something simple with legs that slightly taper halfway down and 5 drawers.

I kinda just like the look of pine, and quality stock is easy to find delivered around here. Lots of pine haters online though.

My only real concern is that it'll match my floors too much. Our floors are wide face nailed pine planks. Was thinking about playing around with garnet and platina shellac flakes on some samples just to see which extreme contrast I like most.

>>2922047
The specific device is. Floating tenons are not, and there's already plenty of alternative ways to cut mortises the same way.
https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/general-joining/mortisemate-loose-tenon-jig/KLTJ100.html

>>2922133
I should be a bit more clear. By work desk, I mean computer/writing desk for our home office

>>2922135
>the specific device is
so exactly what i said: it's a proprietary one trick pony. the mortisemate is shit, i'm surprised you went with that to try and save yourself vs a pantorouter

>>2922136
i love shellac, it's not very durable for a desk top but you can easily repair it which i think makes it the better option. i'm always disappointed with garnet though and end up tinting it way darker with alcohol ink, depends on what you get

>>2922133
> Shellac, work desk
No way.
Any moisturizer, deet, skin oils, water, alcoholic beverages, hot liquid cups, new rubberized foot pads, etc, etc, ad nauseam.. will destroy shellac.
It’s only to be looked at, not touched.

If you want to use shellac, go buy a glass tabletop sheet from ikea (and nothing else) and build the work desk top to match it.

>>2922133
Chaulk paint it and drench it in PU or a nice epoxy.

>>2922144
add it to the boomerlist: "no matter what you're doing shellac wrong", also "never sand past 220", and because you'll bring it up eventually, "you'll never know the true difference between a pro and amateur (because i'll never get past the initial premise)"
>>2921839

>>2922158
Wtf are you even spouting off about? Boomers love shellac.

>>2922162
>Boomers love gatekeeping shellac
ftfy

>>2922144
I was planning on using coasters

>>2922171
I find the corners and edges where people rest their forearms destroys shellac, and it’s gross, quite frankly.
It even destroys polyurethane eventually, but poly is like the minimum you want to do on a work desk.

I think you can apply a clear poly over shellac, but I’m not sure. If so, you’ll want to get the color right with shellac, then topcoat it. Plus you can get nice sheens with poly that you can’t get with shellac (although you can use 0000 steel wool if need be).

>>2922133
build something else smaller and test see for yourself how the finish holds up.
99% of anons on the internet are not trustworthy and there is always the risk of you fucking something up too, so if you are using diy mixed shit without idiot proof instructions you alway do long term tests

Ask 7 forums and do an 18 month case study before you start amiright?

>>2922215
alternatively you can entrust your hard work to randos who got their knowledge from 3 parrots playing the telephone game

i'm using copious amounts of wood filler

>>2922216
If only there were ways to gain actual experience and otherwise vet the information we've been provided. Maybe we could add an upvoting system so credible anons such as yourself could maintain a hierarchy.

>>2922225
holy strawman
but im glad you feel yourself attacked by my parrot comment

>>2922229
No, it's hyperbole. Your posts imply that these threads need to accept your musings over the other 99%. That's gatekeeping.

You need to attack the ideas and work process, not the character of other posters. When they're shilling a 20x overvalued joiner, your vitriol is warranted. When they're trying to run a paint brush, you've become the thing you hate.

>>2922206
you can apply pretty much anything over shellac as long as you use dewaxed shellac
>>2922234
i'm the one that called you out for gatekeeping nigger, if you need to cry by all means get it out of your system. also still buying the lamello

>>2918565 (OP)
Is hardwax good for redoing a wooden gun stock?

>>2922318
it's perfectly fine for gunstocks, but it's not something gunsmiths often use. a lot of them prefer linseed/tung oil with polymerization agents and resins mixed in, eg. tru-oil or danish oil, and then waxed over that. Or they just go the polyurethane route. The way a gunstock is handled and treated is different than a piece of indoor furniture after all.

>>2922325
To add to this, gunstocks are finished with many more layers of oil than furniture usually is.

>>2922213
we have a vacation rental that gets some action so maybe I can throw some shellaced coasters up there as a torture test.

But I definitely plan on at least practicing the finish on some scraps. Maybe I'll just throw those across my shop a few times to see how bad it is. Can't imagine poly would do well with that either though.

Honestly though I'm not super paranoid about this getting dinged up. We live in an old house so everything is pretty beat to shit. It's more a question of what gets beat up "nicely"

>use a roller to prime a slightly large mdf drawer ie 1 drawer
>use most of a 500ml can
>tried to mix in a 60-40 or 70-30 ratio with thinner
>think the roller soaked quite a bit of it
>coat is thicc af
did i do it wrong

>>2922318
Sure, hardwax would be fine. It's pretty easy to spot repair hardwax, so that goes in its favor . The only catch is that some hardwax requires finishing to a lower grit (Rubio recommends 100 grit and says 150+ is too high), so higher grit like 180 or more might not provide big enough space for the oil to penetrate. There are ways to get around this, but it requires more work.

>>2922325
>The way a gunstock is handled and treated is different than a piece of indoor furniture after all.
>>2922337
>To add to this, gunstocks are finished with many more layers of oil than furniture usually is.
Hardwax has a market on hardwood floors, guys.

>>2922407
Why wouldn't you just brush, mate? One drawer? Roller is gonna waste a lot and you're gonna need a brush for the corners anyway. Plus, brush texture is gonna look better than roller texture when done right, but you can just get the additive that eliminates brush/roller marks.

>>2918565 (OP)
i made this pivoting table. a tabletop lathe will be slid from a table onto this contraption and then bolted down. it weighs 280lbs. then its rotated, im hoping i can tip it a bit further so the legs lift up and the pivot bolt can be removed. when the legs are gone a big dolly will be wheeled in behind it so it can be moved

>>2922421
everyone seems to be putting on a thick coat with a roller though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofdyxLl-rvk
brush does look kinda blotchy and streaky esp when you're trying to jew it

>>2921246
Why aren't you showing up in the mirror!?!

>>2922784
hes romanian

>>2922407
It's primer. The goal is to improve bonding between the materials. Sand it once dry and keep moving forward.

Normally I can paint all the trim of a kitchen with 1-2 sample size paints. You should be getting better coverage even without cutting.
You can squeegee your roller back into the can when you're done with a plastic bag. A brushed finish will depend on your technique and brush quality can help.

>>2922782
Anon. He's painting a single board. That's exactly what a roller is for. You're painting a drawer. There's nooks and crannies. Get some floetrol and use a brush. Git gud if you need to.

>>2922782
>everyone is doing it
You don't want thick coats. You want multiple thin coats. Thick coats run the very serious risk of not drying properly.

>>2922826
big drawers and he made a whole cabinet

>>2922826
If you're using a urethane enamel paint don't use floetrol. It's not meant for that.

Product specs on sherwin emerald trim for example recommend against any additives except distilled water. They already have enough leveling agents in there. Floetrol is old tech and wasn't made with newer trim paints in mind.

As an aside, I was able to get a spectacular finish by rolling on, then gently brushing after the roll. This saved me tons of time doing huge flat panels on a bookcase before assembly. Old boat builder's painting technique. Helps you get the brush lines super even and consistent.

I too despise roller marks on anything other than walls by the way. I lose my mind any time I see trim or doors with stipple/orange peel.

I need a Router bit extender but I've read some reviews about there being excessive vibration and the extension bit loosening with use. I don't need it to go out super far, and seeing Chinese brands flooded on Amazon doesn't really inspire confidence... I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for brands or specific models.

>>2923096
this just seems like a recipe for disaster. routers are probably the second scariest handheld power tool there is after angle grinders, and using an extender to hold your bit is just asking for trouble. buy a longer bit instead.

>>2923110
I dunno anon.. I've never felt uncomfortable using a router or an angle grinder....

>>2923096
what are you trying to rout and how?
>>2923110
some manufacturers are putting tilt and kickback detection in now so hopefully less occurrences of people running them into their fingers and legs in the near future as long as it doesn't become sawstop-level bullshit

>>2923141
I think I've seen two routers with that so far, DeWalt's latest cordless plunge router has proper kick/twist detection that cuts off the motor if it detects any sharp motions from the body, while Bosch recently had a new cordless trim router come out with drop detection.

The big Sawstop issue was them holding a vague enough set of patents that they could block anyone making similar devices using electrical charge drop as the trigger.

>>2923150
exactly

>>2923150
I have that new Bosch, and the drop detection on it is quite interesting. It doesn't seem to use an accelerometer to detect a vertical drop, it rather stops when it detects an impact from any direction, so if you turn it on, hold it straight, and slap it from the side, it also stops. Of course, it also stops if you drop it, but only on impact too.

>>2923141
I indeed made a under-mounted router accessory for my table-saw, and I'm thinking I'd like to get that little bit of space out of my shorter router bits. it looks like some are only a 1/4" - 3/8" short.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfkchldRTg8

>>2923055
idk stipple seems way better than brush streaks almost like spray or is this a sovl vs sovlless thing

>>2923055
Sherwin Williams Emerald is excellent paint. If you're spending like $90+ a gallon, then you don't need additives. That should be common sensical, imo. Cheaper latex paints (what anon was probably using) can definitely use some help, but it's not like well done brush strokes aren't a nice texture. If you want a sprayed finish, just spray it. Unless it's a huge area, then spray cans are perfectly fine if you don't have a sprayer. I like Zinsser Bullseye as a primer. It dries quickly. Definitely don't use Kilz inside a cabinet. It might never fully dry. Maybe there's a more specialized product for painting inside a cabinet. I can't remember.

>>2923171
why is he doing climb cuts in that video? anyways, you could add a lift or plate to get that space back which is way better than using a chinesium extension

>>2923171
i have that same router and use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YCOVMNE on my table, i've never had an issue with bits being too short. we're in the process of moving so the router is packed away right now

>>2923228
you can also get the inserts for pretty cheap https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YCMWX4S

>>2923206
>sovl vs sovlless thing
Pretty much. Brush strokes require skill, so that's a factor. This shit goes back to the renaissance, mate (think Leonardo da Vinci). Brush strokes are literally timeless. If you prime and keep your strokes consistent through each coat, then the end product will look great. Be mindful of your order of operations. Nooks > crannies > flat planes. Pull the paint around and use strokes to finish. Let paint on only the tip of your brush. Keep the rest of your brush paint free so you don't make a mess. Plus it will greatly increase the precision of your pulling and stroking. Learn how to pull a little pond of paint around at the tip of your brush to edge. With the brush tip running parallel to the edge that you're edging, just pull it along while keeping the tip flat and pressure forward. If you have a surplus, then you'll notice a little bit of paint that accumulates at a point at the tip, which is then released along the rest of the brush (I'm calling this the pond). You can get that little pond right up to an edge you want, no more and no less. Then always finish with light strokes to keep your brush lines running the right way. Exceed the previous line of paints you laid down to keep the brush lines as long and as straight as possible. Be like a barbie doll in your movements; keep certain joints locked to maintain straightness. You can always do a little sanding if you want to be anal. I dunno how you painters explain this shit or what the terms you use are, but I can't imagine it's any less silly. What with all the literal huffing you do every fucking day. Yet I digress, if you really want a spray finish, just use spray cans (>>2923224). I wouldn't forego primer on raw material. Even if "they" say the paint doesnt need it. Primer goes a long way, but once you're looking at paint you don't need it unless you need to seal stains & odors. Paint best sticks to like paint.

>>2923096
Don't use a 1/4" shank to 1/2" shank adapter. That's a really bad idea. If you need an extender, something that takes a like-sized bit just a little further, then get something off Rockler or Woodcraft. They are reputable companies and sell to boomers, so safety is important.

>>2923230
fuck dude miss me with that bs before the autism pulls me in

does anybody know how to fix these back into square? i own both, didnt use in a while and just noticed they drifted quite a bit

>>2923230
What novices don't realize is with any applicator, paint and finishes are applying a texture.

Sheen, color, and texture are important.

>>2920653
Welcome to 4chan, retard (You're here forever).

>>2923317
File the blade. You can check the squareness and straightness by joining a board, then drawing a line with the square on the board. Then flip the square over and try drawing the same line. If they diverge then it is not square yet and file accordingly. If they curve away from each other then the blade is not straight.

>>2923488
i checked it with a proper engineering square, i know that its straight but not 90°
any other method? filing the blade ruins it as the whole point of even owning a tri square is having a thin and black tongue for quick light gap checking

What would is this? An Old Episcopal church was selling it and im so bad at wood identification.

>>2923484
I've already been here forever, fuckface.
>Lol we were just pretending durr

>>2923520
How much is your time worth screwing around with it versus just replacing it?

>>2923540
Could be cherry

>>2923540
Post a close up of the end grain, preferably unfinished and flat like the bottom of the legs and the region

>>2923540
I don't know how anyone ever gets good at this game.

I don't see pores like oak or mahogany. It doesn't have wide pronounced veins like the conifers. It seems like a stained maple or similar hardwood.

>>2923609
>>2923608
>>2923606
I love you anons, this is the closest shot of grain I have, I'll take another tm, My old shop teacher would taste the wood, he was insane but he would swear by it.

>>2923616
>>2923606
>>2923608
>>2923609

Whats the best way to cut a groove into wood from the edge into part way through the board so that another board fits in the groove? Do I need to use a router and build a jig?

>>2923732
nah just use a sacrificial fence and do it on the table saw

>>2923743
Yeah but I'm only going partially through the board, I'd need to finish the end up with a chisel.

>>2923744
like this?

>>2923745

>>2923746
oh ok, yeah then use a router. what's the concern?

>>2923747
I didn't want to have to build a jig but I probably will have to.

>>2923732
It's annoying to stop a dado part way with a table or circ. Router is straight ahead. Routers of all types have a lot of alternative usefulness.

>>2923750
seems like you'd just need a straightedge and then plunge

>>2923766
Not even plunge, just put the straight edge the other way and cut from the edge to the stop point.

>>2923831
common mistake. if looking down the center to the end, the router should follow the arrows i put so it naturally drifts into the (clamped) fence

>>2923874
nevermind (i think)

>>2923766
Yeah but the width of the board I want to fit in there isn't the size of any of the bits I have.

>>2923879
Make multiple passes.

>>2923896
I'll practice this for future thank you

>>2923732
If you don't have a router, then hogging material out with forstner bits and finishing with a chisel is the next best way. Just cut your outline with a razor knife so you don't tear.

>>2923616
looks just like oak.

Jigsaw can literally make any cut and it looks great if you slather it in foodsafe polymerized linseed oil after.

>>2923206
With brush lines on something like a door or trim, you can follow the direction of the wood grain. Think of a basic shaker cabinet door. You brush left to right on the top and bottom rails, up and down on the left and right stiles, then usually up/down to follow the longest length of the center panel. The eye will naturally follow the brush lines, which I think looks way better than stipple.

Stipple looks especially bad with glossier paints to me too. It's hard to describe, but I think it has to do with there being way more directions for light to bounce off of stipple mounds vs uniform rows of brush strokes. The stipple on glossy paint to me looks as bad as a flash photo indoors at night, idk how else to describe it.

Spraying can look great if you're going for a modern look, but brushing is way more accessible and I prefer it for an old house because it gives a "classic" look.

How would you plug these radiator holes? We have at least one in just about every room. I'm wondering if I should just try to cut a plug and leave the hole as is, or if I should widen the hole with the next largest hole saw to get a cleaner fit.

Wondering how I can match the color too. I'm guessing these are oil poly that have yellowed over time. I tried wiping garnet shellac on some scrap, but it seems far to orange. Maybe I'll try half as many coats then an oil poly on top next.

>>2924079
I'd use two hole saws. Use the saw that's one kerf bigger to fit the cut out exactly into the space. Use a pilot block so I don't have to put a bit hole in the center of the filler.

I don't know if this question goes here but please help. I've tried everything chatgpt suggested.

How can I remove these scratches from my parquet before refinishing it?
Things I've tried:
>sanding 40,80,100,120,180 grit
>oxalic acid
>wet towel + steam iron to raise the grain and sand
>painting over them (this would take way too long to match every single scratch to the right color)
The only thing I haven't tried yet is staining really dark but I don't want a dark floor
Anything?

how would you make this

>>2924079
can you replace an inconspicuous floor board somewhere and use that for plugs?

>>2924079
or find a nice light or dark piece of wood that contrasts nice and just accept it as a feature

>>2924119
>I've tried everything chatgpt suggested.
Well, there's your problem, asking something that can't fucking think and will repeat stupid jokes as if they were stated seriously.

If you're trying to sand something like that out, you have to start by getting it all the way out at the lowest grit first.

The other option is that you just get it smooth, accept that it has character from its lifetime of use, and put whatever finish you want over it.

>>2924121
I wouldn't, looks awful to me, but if you're set on it I'd probably follow a similar method as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLPE5QLz9VY

And use a cheap hardwood like poplar and paint it to get that look.

>>2924079
just don't forget to account for the kerf of the holesaw. If you cut out the hole with one holesaw and use the same one to cut the plug, there will be a ~1/16 to 1/8 inch gap between the plug and the whole and it won't fit flush.

>>2924131
feel like it's not as curvy and why does it need to be so segmented everywhere

>>2924215
Look to the technique, not the exact shape.

>>2924119
You could try to grain fill over. But mostly what the other anon says. You didn't dig deep enough with your sanding. That looks burned in, not scratched.

The lowest grit papers dig. I think 20 grit increments is excessive, but you can fight that battle of blending the flooring back in after the marks go away.

>>2924079
widening wood by drilling without a guide drill which is impossiple without plugging the hole first is a recipe for disaster, but you do you

>>2924235
>so hard to stand on a piece of scrap and drill a hole
>he's never seen a solid surface guy cutout faucets
skill issue

>>2924129
>>2924221
I forgot to mention they're not deep, I can't fill them with filler and sand because there's no groove to fill. I tried sanding them by hand, starting with 40, but might as well go with a chisel then. I don't get what they are, they're more like burns created maybe by heavy stuff being dragged over the floor? Maybe when the old owners moved out, boomers who didn't give a shit and lived like animals.
I think I'll just have to embrace them (cover them with a rug)

how do you get 3/4" boards

>>2924261
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BuYHxiX0mY

>>2924235
>being this concerned with the execution of a task carried put by an anonymous poster on a Mongolian underwater basket weaving forum
Ngmi

>>2924121
That Tripp Trapp at the desk is wigging me out. That's a high chair for literal kids. Both my daughters at five and three use them at the table.

not that anon but could you tell me how the lower corner joint on the chair thing is made? Because it looks like it must be really strong to not break there and let the kid fall off

>>2924121
Build a skeleton form out of wood or foam. Apply mesh if needed. Spray and finish. Yours looks like plaster, but I have no idea. Nor am I an architectural form carpenter.
https://youtu.be/Cusncs4GaFg

>>2924131
Blacktail's is a stacked cutting board with a radius chamfer. The 3d complexity isn't there.

>>2924121
>>2924215
Did something similar in design class but from many layers of HDF (ply probably works). You can screw the layers together as well as gluing and you can make many of the curved parts individually before gluing/screwing them together. You do not want to have carve out tight inside corners like the guy in the video because it sucks with any tool. If you have a 3D model you can slice it into sections, if have a cnc it’s easy but jigsaw works.

>>2924362
jesus can you imagine if that was hdf what a piece of shit that would be

>>2924392
Hdf or mdf would probably be ok if you saturated in some kind of penetrating acrylic lacquer.
Basically turns it into plastic.

I tried to get a shiny edge on mdf with nitrocellulose lacquer. It’s like a literal sponge, in needs 10 coats just to start making progress with a bit of a surface finish build. If you don’t let it 100% dry, then it will soak in forever it seems.

Used a whole can just on the edges. Gets expensive. Now i know why edge banding exists. Next time.

>>2924392
>>2924395
You coat it of course, first seal the stuff and then put polyester. Some people just built a frame, did the organic shapes with expanding PU foam and then polyester over that, easier to work with but harder to get an exact shape from drawing. Now that I think of it, you could probably CNC the entire thing out of 2” layers of foam board and need no smoothing at all before the polyester

>>2924395
> It’s like a literal sponge
Use something fast like CA glue or thick like aliphatic resin, it will dry before soaking/swelling too much. Dispersion primer (for tiling drywall) works to some extent

>>2924342
interdasting

brushing really is this easy

>>2923323
You right, anon.

Took my first shot at intarsia after doing mostly furniture as a hobby. Found it more enjoyable than I expected to.

How long does it take to get good at whittling? I do have a near infinite supply of basswood, knives are the most basic Amazon starter kit

>>2925268
if you can imagine it in your head, it's actually really easy to translate it to wood, but the hardest part of it is having truly sharp tools for ease of use, and probably a nice chain-mail glove to not constantly get cuts.

Is there a word for these things other than “flat wood cutout”?
And are there ways to take an image and create a stencil to cut out the shape of said image? I don’t know about woodworking so all i can think of is using a really thin sheet of paper (with the image or outline) and a pen that would bleed through it onto the wood or smth

>>2925494
Were you linking to something, or did you mean to attach an image?

Why don't we just use joinery for everything.

>>2925494
?

I've never done any woodwork before, will beech boards be strong enough to make a selfbow? Or will it need a backing? Also a backing is just gluing linen onto the belly right?

>>2925494
laser engraver

>>2925494
Cutting thin veneer with a surgical scalpel to make detailed layers is called marquetry. Look for ‘marquetry window method’. If you need it from anything thicker, it’s usually done with a bandsaw/scrollsaw, laser cutter or cnc

Are these kind of sheet metal planes any good at all?, I'm pretty much broke so even the cheapest cast iron planes here are unaffordable, and there's no market for vintage planes here, this at least I can somehow manage but idk if I'm going to fuck myself over going for one of these, or should I just try without a wood plane
Have pallet wood I want to at least try to make something from but it's horribly rough, even just looking at the planks feels like I'm gonna get a splinter
There's one of those cheap cast planes that was my brother's at home but depth knob never worked so I don't even know if I can save it either(and it's been sitting for years so the blade could use sharpening rn)

>>2925783
Yes and no, there are okay cheap ones, most of them need some flattening with sandpaper, but this screw thread blade adjuster thing is the absolute worst and you should avoid it

>>2925783
without going into autistic detail, you will not make something pretty with that thing out of pallet wood. Pic is so stripped down it might work on perfectly selected planks, not random leftovers littered with knots

>>2925783
I think that plane is for wood, not sheet metal.
Raises an important question though?
Why aren’t plane blades made of tungsten carbide? Doesn’t make any sense whatsoever. International scam using soft-cheese chinese pot metal blades everywhere.

>>2919855
looks very nice anon good job

So, I'm a new fecker trying to get in to woodworking. I've not a lot of money, and my workshop is a repurposed other space. Are there economical options for shop vacs that aren't bargain basement quality? What should I look for?

>>2925926
i just have a small 5.5 peak hp wall mount shop vac with picrel in front of it attached to a 7 gallon bucket, it works perfect with everything (planer, jointer, two saws, sander). after a year of use i've yet to have to change the bag in the vacuum because the dust separator works so well. i do plan on building an enclosure for the vacuum to cut down on the noise though

>>2925926
i guess if you're looking for what features, whatever the highest hp in your price range is and a separate exhaust out so you can put it in an enclosure and cut down on the decibels. definitely put a dust separator in front of it, pay attention to the power draw too if you only have one circuit

>>2925933
An enclosure? You and the previous guy said that (thanks by the way) and I don't know if you mean a literal box for the vacuum to be in or if it's a term I've never heard before.

>>2925935
both those are my posts. yeah a box to put it in, they get loud and annoying

>>2925940
I can just put in ear plugs for it, though, right?

>>2925848
>>2925918
The one with that thread adjuster is the only one available of that kind here so I'm fucked
Thanks the advice guys
I'll get a couple photos of my brother's plane to see if it's worth trying to save instead then

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SnrbGwGpI
Is this true? It seems so completely counterintuitive to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SnrbGwGpI
Is this true? It seems so completely counterintuitive to me.
Basically what he shows is that wood tapped threads and stronger than metal threaded inserts. What's the point of metal thread insert in the first place then? Maybe it varies by wood.

Heres a photo of what I am unsure about
The frog is clearly misaligned I think, and I'm not sure if it's a good idea to eyeball realignment, and don't have any precision measurement tool to verify. That's the worst thing beside the depth adjuster, which maybe doesn't work precisely because of the frog being misaligned, I'm not sure.
There's rust all over the body but I think I can clean that probably, some rust spots on the blade and guard, and cleanest of all is the lever cap that only has a bit of rust where it engages the screw it uses as fulcrum

>>2925975
yeah it just gets monotonous after a while; there will be times you'll want to leave it on while you're measuring or whatever and having it going full bore requiring eat protection on just gets very old. also it may piss off your neighbors. find a cheap wifi plug too so you can turn it on and off from your phone

>>2925783
That kind is complete ass. If you are going cheap, go for one of those weird European wood planes. You will have to learn to adjust the iron with a hammer, but your pic related adjusters are so shit I actually prefer the hammer. Regardless of what you are going for, you will have to learn to sharpen things. You want a high degree of sharpness to cut well.

>>2926002
You can probably save it. Perfect alignment is not necessary. Just adjust it to a point so the opening between the blade and the front of the mouth is relatively small (don't overthink this, there's a huge range that works well). It looks like the frog is way far back though. Work on freeing up the depth adjuster. Sharpening will be the biggest gamechanger though.

>>2925997
The point is that metal threads can be reused without munging them.

Anybody know a good place to make smaller orders for hardwoods in Central/East Europe? I'm in Hungary and for the life of me I can only find one place that sells hardwood boards but they don't do delivery, is there like a slovak lumberyard or some shit I can order ash, red oak or black locust from?

>>2926094
His video suggests that metal threads fail at around 30 reuses, while wooden taps can go for over 100 though. That's what surprised me.

>>2926002
alignment of the frog is trivial but its the very last step after complete de-rusting and honing the blade.
Do it like this: just slightly loosen the frog screws, insert blade, center the lateral adjuster, advance blade until it could do an uneven cut. Now you rub a small piece of wood on both corners of the iron and check the shaving. if they are uneven you slightly tap the frog in the other direction, then check again. if both sides produce an equal shaving you remove the blade and tighten the screws again.
in woodwork, tension and hammer are your friends

>>2925997
the "wood thread" is over twice the depth of the insert in the pull-out test
i blocked this jeets channel like a year ago to stop it apearing in me feed
>midwit take
>biased test for shocking result
>results are entierly irrelevant for actual woodworking, like wtf lag bolts exist

>>2926123
Thanks for the insight. I found it difficult to believe that metal inserts as a product were propped up by nothing at all, but I couldn't see any evidence to the contrary from the video.

Any idea what wood this could be? The shavings smell strongly of horse manure when planed, it doesn’t match any local oak (our oak wood is softer and a lot less yellow) and it has some spalting. Our local hardwood trees are maple, ash, oak and elm but I can’t find an image of those that looks similar

>>2926191
This pic shows what I think is spalting. I accidentally snorted a tiny bit while smelling it and it’s a very mild irritant

>>2926193
Hard to tell, but I would guess poplar. I've worked with a lot of it before and it looks kinda like that and the smell can range from popcorn to kind of funky, similar to manure. It also has those brown streaks in it. The wood database is a great way to verify whatever you think it might be. How hard is it?

>>2926203
ive had ash and oak (its not oak) before that reeked of mouse piss, lots of wood smell

>>2926203
Thanks I’ll look at the wood database. I don’t know how to measure hardness, don’t have the tools for a janka test but it’s harder than beech and oak, I don’t have a lot of very hard stuff laying around it seems softer than pau ferro and azobe

>>2926212
>I don’t know how to measure hardness
Fingernail test. Knuckle test. Don't overthink it.

>>2926193
This pic, and the shavings in >>2926191 look like oak. Oak has tannic acid and other weird shit in it, so yeah, sometimes it smells strongly. Thats why whisky… Depends on the oak. We mostly get red oak around here which doesnt smell too bad but is porous and stringy like fiberglass.

Is joinery (without nails/screws) worth learning or is it just memery that might make me feel cool?

>>2926518
It will create much stronger, longer lasting joints than a butt joint with fasteners. It's also one of those things that takes longer, but creates greater pride in a project. It can also look a lot better.

>>2926518
It's worth learning a few joints. That said my most commonly used joint right now is a very basic crossed lap joint. I also finished a project where I used 1/4 inch wooden pegs in place of nails.

In specific applications like boat building or areas of high humidity like in Japan nail-less wood construction is still favored because it avoids the issues of rust associated with using iron nails. Using wood dowels of the same wood as the planks reduces rot.

>>2926547
Japan's reason for nail-less joints isn't just humidity. They're more resilient when it comes to earthquakes as well.

Say I want to make a chest(totally not making a casket)
If I was too lazy to many box joints, what would be the easiest+sturdiest way of making a box?
I adding an inner frame would make the parts where the panels of wood are joined sturdier?
Wood glue + screws, and then for good measure, leave an inch of space so when I put the cover on, it sits flush and adds more rigidity?

>>2926564
Of course I intend create the frame throughout the entire box, not just around the corners.

>>2918565 (OP)
I am making an exterior door according to plans at: https://baileylineroad.com/how-to-build-a-door/. I am unsure if I like the idea of using screws for this as described in step 1. I want to use dowels instead.
I have the materials on hand already, so cost is not a concern. Are there any disadvantages to doing so? They will ultimately be covered in sheathing and waterproofed regardless.

>>2926564
I think an inner frame would cause you to lose a bit of internal space within the box. Whenever I need to come up with ideas I watch others work and become inspired by their solutions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nrga2vZ0As8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKYRfSpSBEM

>>2926550
It's amazing just how strong wooden pegs are.

>>2926564
If material thick enough, dowels or rabbet joint. Dovetails for very fancy boxes. Or just glue onto the vertical support, bonus points if you make the supports triangular

>>2922144
>ikea
any tips for a woodworking newbie for building this with zero knowledge beforehand myself?

>picrel
>NEIDEN/LURÖY double bed, pine, 140x200 cm
https://www.ikea.com.tr/en/product/neiden-luroy-pine-140x200-cm-double-bed-39248608
>IKEA NEIDEN Bed Frame.pdf
https://share.riseup.net/#KatbqX2Pz7aOcFKaz8lY5A

this type of minimal build plans are welcome too

>>2926643
hide the fasteners with dowels

>>2926643
>>2926645
bet this thing creeks like crazy because it flexes all the time
where are the reviews on that page

>>2926650
4.2/5 on US variant (measurements differ slightly)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/neiden-bed-frame-pine-luroey-s79248606/

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?q=neiden%20lur%C3%B6y

>>2926652
most of them are buying for the kids and the negative ones have a lot of yeses
make the woodgears bed instead

What height should I build a workbench to? Like obviously varies per person but should I am for where I could rest my hands on it with my elbows at a 90 degree (roughly) angle?

>>2926665
It’s an eternal discussion. Also depends on if you’re going to use it for chiseling and planing or more with power tools. Between height of knuckles while standing straight and height of belt buckle is usually a good first estimate.

> I could rest my hands on it with my elbows at a 90
Seems tall, you’d have to raise your elbows to use anything other than a pen

>>2926668
Hand tools mostly .

>>2926671
it also depends on what tools you are planning to use. if im gonna use german planes with their different grip and a 30" bowsaw with horns for resawing, stuff like that kinda sets a minimum height.
Or if anon wants to larp as bong then look at some youtube videos of people using an english bench and compare their relative body height to it

>>2926645
whats behind that wall

>>2926675
My idea is using chisels and a jack plane and some stuff to kake small things like boxes and stools

>>2926660
this ones seem better but something lighter would be cool

>>2926688
check the ikea site i sent anon, it's in english

>>2926649
thanks i will mind this just in case

>>2926191
>>2926193
That looks very much like a type of white oak, it varies depending on where it came from and what chemicals it absorbed. The smell also checks out with certain white oak.

>>2926665
>>2926675
English benches are from the time that most people were like 5’6, many traditionalist woodworkers and also the youtubers forgot that and make them only 30” high while 34” to 36” is what many average height people prefer. I like 37” at 6’2, previous one was 35” but felt low. Start tall you can always shorten the legs.

what happens to a traditional workbench when you stop using hand tools

>>2926748
Nothing? It's a solid work surface you'll probably still need for much of your work like assembly or any other type of joinery. Just because you stop using hand tools exclusively doesn't mean you still don't need a place for your routing or certain cuts and assembly. And just because power tools, whether floorstanding or handheld, take over the majority of your workflow, it doesn't mean hybrid uses of bench chisels or whatever for more precise fits stops being relevant.

>>2926748
it becomes another surface to accumulate mountains of crap

>>2926735
I'm 6'3" and I have one workbench where the surface is 38", and another where the surface is 42" from the floor, the 42" one is only 27"x48" worksurface, while the other is quite a bit more work surface. 34-36" is on the low side and really only became the standard because so many people are used to it for kitchen countertop height.

>>2926748
Presumably you keep it for when hand tools are necessary and get something that works with your supply of tools that require mounting.

>>2926751
> another surface to accumulate mountains of crap
Trust me, you don't have to wait until you stop using hand tools.
Anyway, that's one of the most realistic statements ever made here.
I'm just going to put a table-like surface on top of my table saw instead of building
another bench. Then put it away when I no longer need it.

>>2926750
but they're narrow and bulky whereas an assembly table is large and doesn't need to be bulky

>>2926735
I can vouch for this anon's assessment. I'm 6' 1-1/2" and I get back pain if I work at anything besides my 37" tall work table. It's only 37" tall because I added wheels to an old dining table, but it works. When I work at the 34" work table I got off CL I find myself bending over a lot, which is so stupid.

>>2926643
ikea uses barrel nuts and cam screws. That would be a pain in the ass to start with. Either lag it from the inside or use deck screws then cap them with bits of dowel.

1x3 or rips of ply are fine for slats, but I'd add a second joist. ikea's slats can break easily.

>>2926665
I personally use a low bench about the same dimensions as a picnic bench.

>>2926973
Hopefully one day I'll have a work shop that expresses its width measurement in two digits of feet.

good morning

>>2927513
Beautiful.
What tools do you use to make those ?
(Im new on this board so idk if you already answer that)

I found a 15 year old 12 inch Dewalt slider in the trash a few weeks ago.
All I needed to do was rewind the guard spring and fix the blade lock. It had a nicer stand than mine but there is a crack in a leg and it's missing all the feet and the screws for clamping it on the tubes.
I wish the dolly stands weren't so expensive, my old one was annoying enough with the 10" Hitachi but with a 12 inch slider it's brutal to try and mount and dismount it.

>>2927516
thanks! i use router, jigsaw and a few cylindrical and straight chisels. at the end i use an angle grinder and curved file for sanding

It's amazing how much of wood work is 'does it work? If so, do.'

For a non-load bearing box, is there any reason I can't just use finger points for four walls (not the top or bottom)?

>>2927870
for a non load bearing box you can simply do a mitered butt joint and be done with one cut

>>2927880
But on a more retarded level, I want to practice something more painful than butt joints. The only butts I want to handle are the butts of adult women.

>>2927880
>mitered butt joint
You mean a miter joint?

>>2927900
One good starting point is the quarter-quarter-quarter joint.

>>2918565 (OP)
Old OP here, the one that wrote most of the stuff in your rentry link and started this general, just swinging by to say hello. Nice to see other anons have kept this going, perhaps I will stop by the next thread come weekend.
>>2923617
Mahogany.
>>2926002
Move the frog all the way forward, snug the scews just tight enough that it won't easily move, Put the blade in so it sticks out the mouth and hold it firmly against the frog, tap the blade with a small hammer like a tack hammer as low as you can manage until it stops moving, remove blade and tighten down the frog screws. Easier to do if you remove the knob.
>>2926193
Not spalting, forest fire, charred the tree and then it grew over the char. Give a good shot of the face in the next thread if you want an id, I wold guess some sort of ash or cypress but ash generally does not have much smell, cypress tends to be sour.

If appearance and load bearing are no issue, I can use scrap wood for a project without much concern beyond whatever is defective about the scrap wood, right?

>>2927513
Holy fuck dude. Looks awesome.

>>2928200
What do you mean by scrap wood?

I'm looking to buy the basics to start wood working. I do not have much space so I'll stick with mostly hand tools and a small table saw.
I'm interested is medium and small projects, and in Japanese woodworking.

I want to ask if there is any reason to buy a japanese block plane over a decent gaijin one, a lot of tutorials I see seem to be made by purists who only want to use japanese tools folded over a thousand times, and as much as I like the aesthetic they seem to be much more expensive than normal planes.

>>2928283
Not really, it comes down to personal preference. The big difference is that JP planes are made to be used in a pulling motion on a seated workbench, while western ones are pushed on a bench in the standing position.

>>2928284
Aw, I've been thinking about a floor sitting setup because of space (and I'm a weeb)

I'm sure I could make a normal plane work, but are there any decent but not super expensive all rounder plane? Does it even matter what plane I get as long as I give it proper maintenance?

>>2928283
>seem to be much more expensive than normal planes
that defeats the purpose i think the whole point is you make them yourself

>>2928297
Western planes can work just as well for a floor sitting bench, this is more a function of the design of the bench and the work holding devices than the plane itself. Western planes (especially the European horned planes) have the advantage of letting you use the floor itself as your bench, got a long board to surface, plop it on the floor and kneel on it, plane ~2' of the end, move back on the board 2' and do the next 2', repeat. For short board and doing edges, just use a thinner board pushed against the wall as a stop and plane away. The UK/US steel plane tradition don't work so well for this but many of their earlier wooden planes work very well this way and the coffin smoother is probably the most versatile plane that exists, works equally as well pushed as pulled. The European horned smoother works almost as well pulled as pushed but is slightly awkward pulled.

For my money, the ECE wedge set European jack plane is the best all purpose plane, the way it holds the iron allows for you to install the blade upside down for a high angle nearly scrapping action, gives you a 70 degree angle which will give a glass smooth finish on even the most difficult of grains.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ecejackplane.aspx

Which ever way you go, if you go with wooden planes get yourself a steel block plane for end grain work, end grain eats the sole of even lignum vitae planes, your planes will last much longer.

>>2928321
Installing the iron upside down is retarded with todays knowledge. The harthobel (70-85º bed) was just like that and it died out when the chipbreaker was introduced. The most versitile and beginner friendly plane is a ulmia pattern reform plane

>>2928330
Chip breaker does not help with interlocked grain, burls, many highly figured grains, crotch wood, grain which changes direction a fair amount so you can't plane off the grain, etc. Modern planes rely on an adjustable mouth to avoid tear out in such grains but adjustable mouth means you have to adjust the mouth every time you adjust blade depth and result in clogging or tear out if mouth is not well adjusted towards depth. High angle generally will take a bigger tear out free bite than any adjustable mouth plane. Adjustable mouths also do to stop tear out, they just reduce it.

This is not really "todays knowledge," chip breakers have been around since the mid 1700s.

>>2928331
>Chip breaker does not help with interlocked grain
it does when its set up right. Ill leave it at that. And in continental europe its fairly novel

>>2928332
So you can plane into the grain without tear out if your chip breaker is set right? Suppose that is true but 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding block would probably take a bigger bite. Chip breaker relies on working off the grain, you can never work off the grain in interlocked grain .

>>2928333
Chipbreaker is simply another aproach to high angle planing, but adjustable and less force and as side effect it aids in chip evacuation.
as i said, the high angle plane died out while the toothing plane and the double iron smoother made it into the din norm. But sanding replaced them all anyway

>>2928336
Chip breaker is not another approach to high angle, it breaks the chip so it will not tear out ahead of the blade but that only works if you are planing off the grain. Adjustable mouth came about to address this short coming but only really works in reasonably well behaved grain or with a very very fine cut, the Primus and Reform planes would have no need for an adjustable mouth if the chip breaker did what you think it does. Being able to flip the blade is quite useful when needed, only a belt sander or a #12 will beat it for speed when a fine finish is needed in such woods.

No idea why you think it is retarded to do something which makes the job easier, anon asked for an all rounder plane that does not cost a lot and being able to flip the blade extends what the plane can do, does it for less money, and can work grains which would be painfully slow with a 45/50 degree adjustable mouth plane. Being able to set a fine mouth is only an advantage in woods with inclusions, wide mouth will just pop them out, you either need a fine mouth or a proper scraping plane/cabinet scraper for that and which you need really depends on the wood itself, there are no rules with such woods.

>>2928342
The issue with the blade flip is that you remove the cutting edge clearance. Its a wonder and thanks to the woods flexibility that the setup cuts at all. Propably not as easy of a job as you claim.

>>2928343
Clearance angle with the blade flipped is the angle of the bed, same as every bevel up plane so in this case you greatly increase, not remove it.

>>2923096
>Router bit extender
This is a liveleak video waiting to happen

>>2928232
'Defective' wood from the Lowes/Home Depot, leftover wood I have that suits the purpose, etc.

why do redditors start pissing and shitting when they see homemade machines

>>2918565 (OP)
How cutting straight (be hacksaw/saw) can be done?
ocasionally got into and never cut straight, only using the bare hacksaw blade and sometimes a tile or a bigger wood piece and for small lenght chuncks,
but even so sometimes the cut got curved, or not aligned with the rulers.
Thanks.
But when trying

>>2928427
you know the saying a bad craftsmen always blames his tools? In my opinion the hand saw is the only exception.
Afaik what makes a saw drift are the following. To small teeth for the stock dimension, uneven teeth set, bad stance combined with too much set, lack of tension on the blade

>>2928374
Should be fine. It will just have more wastage and work required to avoid defects and straighten things out.

>>2928437
Tooth size will not cause curved cut regardless of stock dimensions, it only affects speed of cut. Small teeth will mean a slower cut so you have more time to screw up the cut with poor technique but that is not the saw's fault. Tooth size mostly affects how clean the cut is, smaller teeth means a smoother cut and less tear out.

>>2928464
>Tooth size will not cause curved cut regardless of stock dimensions
thats not correct, a saw which gullets are stuffed with sawdust will widen the kerf instead of going and a widened kerf enables it to drift

>>2928466
If it widens the kerf you are forcing the blade, technique issue.

>>2928467
>tooth size will not cause curved cut regardless of stock dimensions
>akshually it does but its technique issue if it happens
>anon with the question has flawless technique
I hate faggets that always have to have the last word

>>2928427
use a miter box and/or shooting board
>>2928464
>>2928466
the fuck are you retards on about? it's a goddamn saw

>>2928310
Fair enough, sounds fun actually
I assume I only need to buy the blade

>>2928321
>>2928330
>>2928331
I'll start with a western plane then

>>2928427
Dunno about those specific parameters, but for wood, saw only the lines you can see. You can look this up on YT as it is difficult to explain with just words. But basically just lay out lines all the way around the part. Then saw just the two lines you can see (cutting a triangle into your part). I usually saw lightly to cut the top line, then drop my arm as I'm sawing so you cut the front line while only lightly progressing on the top back. Then rotate the part around 90 degrees, and do the same with the new uncut line in the front. The triangle you cut earlier will be in your new cut helping guide your saw as you cut this line. This isn't a guarantee for a perfect cut, but it's pretty damn helpful.

>>2928585
I made this... without any electricity. My shoulder hurts. 561x385x56mm.

>>2928687
Don't know why the hell I replied to an unrelated post. Sorry about that.
I feel like there were more shavings yesterday. Maybe I compressed them by standing on them.
All in all, terrible idea. Would not recommend.

>>2928687
looks awesome, what wood and finish?

>>2928729
Thanks. It's quartersawn European oak (q. robur) and finished with mineral oil in that picture. The EU has decided that mineral oil cannot be food grade from 2022 onward so I got pharma grade. Been using it for many years on my own cutting board because it doesn't dry or go bad. While wrapping it up (it's a gift) I rubbed a warm 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral oil mix into it which fills out the pores even better and makes it shiny when wiped off.

>>2928733
seems like kind of a waste of quartersawn wood, is there some sort of advantage?

>>2928775
Stability. These boards tend to wrench themselves apart if you don't care for them religiously. But it was also just the straightest and best fitting board size-wise at my wood merchant. All oak seems to be grossly overpriced right now so I just picked the nicest board and then closed my eyes and quietly let them rob me.

Is it disrespectful to make a memorial of wood?

>>2928803
what kinda memorial