Grandpa Amu Edition

Post woodworking related questions, projects, ideas etc.
>resources
https://rentry.co/4ch-wwg
modify code m:diy
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>>2918565

>>2929090 (OP)
>>2928437
I usually work with small teeth hacksaw blades to get a finest cut, but in this case since it's used bare hand without the hacksaw itself this has to do plus a better stance.
>>2928473
Thanks I will use it, that's very handy.
>>2928585
It's very interesting to do, sometimes I do something like this but not so elaborated. But I will follow your recommendations, and look for the yt vid.
thanks for the answers, I got some errands to do and couldn't answer I appreciate the support.
Thanks very much. Have fun!!

Is there a good hole saw for thin Balsa and Basswood sheets? I have a dinky rotary compass cutter but because the wood is really thin I wanted to use something that could either punch a hole in the wood or keep a circle while cutting to reduce sliding and causing the circles to be misshapen.

The sheets are those 1-3mm thin sheets for diorama purposes

Let's all take a few minutes to remind ourselves that we shouldn't be Primitive Pepes.

https://youtu.be/fGkOOtd3GmY?si=1QCdple12ybyJb87

>>2929490

>>2929490
what diameter are we talking

i bought this on sale

>>2929825
1-10cm in diameter

>>2929780
uh, I can try this but I'd need to get all the materials because I've only gotten stuff for small models with foam and wood

anyone working in a woodshop? I just applied n got a call back. 20$/hr. 40 min commute

Seems interesting. Looks like a top of the line facility so might not be inhaling too much wood dust. They mostly do custom kitchen island tops.

>>2929872
>Amazon

>>2929964

>>2929940
The materials cost almost nothing and you can just use x-acto knife blades instead of making a blade if you want, there are x-acto blades almost identical but even the normal sort will work well enough. You don't actually have to use hardwoods but it will last considerably longer if you do. The plastic laminate can be replace with any non-brittle plastic which can be found for free all over the place but you can also skip it, it just reduces friction some.

One thing that image does not show is that the the center pin goes into a work board, so you have a 20x20cm or what ever sized hunk of plywood with a hole a size of your center pin drill through the center, drill a hold that size through your stock and then put the center pin through your stock and the work board, turn until cut.

This basic design can be adapted to work down to 5 or 6 cm. For smaller I can draw up a quick plan for you if you are actually willing to make these. You can also buy them, just search for guitar sound hole cutters, but these will not get you the smaller holes.

If you can't have a hole in the center of your disc or need it as small as possible the design could be adapted, would need to think on it a little for the best way to go.

i'm doing a small furniture project and was intending to use some tile (appearance in pic not intended except roughly the shape/construction).
i'm a bit concerned with wood movement.
-will i have trouble with cracking in the grout?
-would the small veneer strip used at the front like in the small section be a bad idea (wear and tear, it's only 0,8 mm thick)

i do not have access to workshop tools which is why i'll be using preconstruced oak stave panels that can be cut in shop more accurately than my handmade jigs and shitty circular saw. tiles are 50x50 mm if it matters and oak panel thickness is 18 mm.

>>2930042
The grain on the top, middle shelf, and bottom should be running along the length of the piece. The grain of all vertical pieces should be running vertical. However, even if you do that you'll still have several mm of movement along the depth of the piece. Wood only pretty much only moves perpendicular to the grain. If whatever you're gluing your tiles down with can withstand that little bit of movement it might be fine. It'd probably be easier to make the top and sides out of something engineered and then just veneer the visible sides.

>>2929090 (OP)
Yo there, I have a table made of particle board, since an old aquarium that was sitting in the table started to leak, a part of the board got soaked and the layer of formicalike it's peeling off and the chips are spilling.
what's better, try to rescue the particle board (since its at most 25% of the size that is damaged) or simply change for a mdf ?(I have a left over mdf over there simply cut, apply some servinsayerwhatever it's at hand and bolton?
if the particle is to be worked, what should be done?
Thanks!!

>>2930592
The substrate of laminate and formica is whatever is cheap. Neither particle nor mdf will tolerate water. I would add backer material after you cut out the damaged area. Then fill with scrap and cap with laminate. You can flush route the laminate to fit your scrap before you install.

>>2930595
Thanks, I was thinking not to put the aquarium again to avoid possible risks.Now, this table has been used
to be a work table, so its a bit roughed, so what treatment can be done once the damaged area is removed?
I have found some pine boards, to replace the soaked section, how should the joint done?(I'm thinking on it, but
the suggestion you made before sounds better).

>>2929780
Someone could tell me what book is it?
Thanks.

>>2930307
thanks anon. i'm a bit afraid i'll be able to do the veneer so it looks good at home.
would this be a construction that works? grain direction across length (indicated by crossed items in drawing)
this way i would be able to use pre-sawed pieces and wouldnt have to worry about right angles and mainly just assemble it at home. So maybe i wouldnt even need the small gaps in the section to allow for some small length-wise movement on top board. it will only be used indooors which i forgot to mention. depth of entire piece would be 450/500 and width 1300, height 600 mm.

>>2931047
If I understand you correctly then I would suggest that you build the entire piece out of oak, with the solid lip you depicted only on the front, and then simply take some MDF and screw it on so that it can move. You could hide it entirely by screwing from the top before tiling.
If you'll excuse the DaveCAD I'll try to explain how you'd hide all the shenanigans. You drill 2 (or more) sets of countersunk holes in the MDF with the front being the exact diameter of the screw so it can't move, and the back being oblong so the screw can move as the oak shrinks and expands underneath the MDF. That way the tiled MDF plate says aligned with the front. Same things for the sides, of course, since you're tiling all the way around.
I wouldn't bother with the expansion gap on the top then. Just join the oak top directly to the oak sides with dowels or whatever you were going to and it'll be solid. It will not move meaningfully in that direction.
It's gonna be egregiously expensive and I don't know about your assertion that you won't have to worry about cutting square. You're definitely going to want to plane all the inaccuracies off once you're done assembling it.

>>2931292
thanks anon. turns out i can expect about a mm of movement at worst which I imagine would lead to cracking in grout so thats a good idea!
hardware store has shelves/countertops of oak staves that arent too expensive that they can pre-cut for a reasonable sum - so i'll just give measurements and assemble at home. they're not really expensive either, a bit more than mdf + veneer but i think this will be nicer and last longer
otherwise I built a desk out of plywood at home (on the balcony, neighbors did not appreciate it) using a circular saw, T-ruler and clamped down curtain rails for guiding the circular saw. takes a lot of time but worked pretty good for the right angles, had loads more trouble with other elements of the build without a proper workshop

I'm making a full bed frame and am thinking of using laminated 3/4 birch plywood for the bed legs. Will it hold up? pic related

First try at a dovetail. I put varnish on this shit pine because I thought it would chip without it but it chipped anyway. I tried to do it with a regular saw but I'm seeing there's a reason why you want a backed saw.

>>2931668
Fucking phone posting posted the thumbnail

>>2931669
it's certainly a first try. once you start using hardwoods, you'll realize why they are used for small dovetails like that and not pine.

>>2931674
You can do them in pine but you need to get the good furniture-grade pine and not the hardware store shit.

>>2931676
yes indeed, you can definitely do it with quality pine, especially the harder southern pine. I also really like using really tight vertical grain douglas fir.

>>2931678
This was supposed to be "southern yellow pine", which I was sold as being "the hardwood of softwoods". Yeah right!

>>2931686
jej, sure; but yes, generally I agree with you that dovetails like that are best done in hardwood. You can practice it on the cheap but that means steamed beech which is about as stable as the average reddit mod's mental state and annoyingly difficult to work with hand tools. Oak, ash, sapele "mahogany" (surprisingly cheap) are all good options and easy to work. American walnut if you think the number on your bank statement is just too damn high.

>>2931668
>>2931669
Also a coping saw for cutting the sections off.

>>2931668
Saw Roy Underhill doing softwood dovetails like, 30-35 years ago. If I remember right, softwood uses a different angle than hardwood does, and possibly a different basic size for everything as well. You might want to google that up. But it's not crazy to use pine at all.

>>2931726
The grain can compress a great deal so in softwood you're better served with a more aggressive angle, say 1:5, while in hardwood you can get away with a much more aesthetic 1:8. In truth you can use whatever angle you want, after all you can box joint hardware store pine just fine, you just won't get the tiny extra bit of mechanical advantage the dovetail offers.

>>2929490
You need a punch, not a saw.

>>2931866
>the tiny extra bit of mechanical advantage the dovetail offers
Nothing blocking or a gusset can't remedy.

>>2931866
I posted the shitty dovetail above and i gotta say even that blown out mess is a lot more stable than the box joint I also cut for the first time, on the other side of that plank.

>>2931982
The beauty of dovetails is that they glue well because you pull them tight and even if the glue fails they still hold well in one direction, unlike box joints. In the old days dovetails on the backs of drawers were often made shitty because they weren’t visible

extremely limited experience here, besides fucking around with scrap wood i find left around and decided to try to make those Japanese single tooth shoes. im aware i probably should have used a thicker piece of wood to carve a notch out of, but im just working with whatever i have laying around right now. is there a way to make the two pieces of the sole appear less separate? Im going for a boat shape kinda sole

>>2932009
for reference this is the shape im going for when it comes to finally sanding the bottom down

>>2932009
Plane down the gluing surfaces so they're properly flat and clamp them tight when gluing them up, then plane the sides. I feel like this is something you should have been able to deduce without any kind of instruction.

>>2932009
There's a gap because the edges are rounded. Cut them down on the sides or the face to remove the gap and you'll have a more crisp line.

Got the fine saw, cuts really fine but I fucked up my marking somewhere, don't know how since I did use the square. Guess i should have bought a marking gauge too

>>2932422
Anon you need to square your stock first or marking will be an exercise in futility.

>>2932427
Swear I did, I was leaned over it with the plane for an hour. I think I ended up dipping the ends downwards thought. Guess I should have had the other plank end to end with it

>>2930042
Use silicone sanded grout caulk if you're worried about expansion. It looks the same as grout but is obviously flexible and seals well.

>>2932433
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4aimRp9V34

>>2929090 (OP)
R8 my project. Got a slab of redgum which is an Australian hardwood, flattened it down and ripped it in half

>>2933026
Then I built a .ould out of malemine and gave it a coat of mould release

>>2933027
Then we tested some colours in the epoxy

>>2933029
Then we poured

>>2933030
Then I flattened the slab

can you please not river table

>>2933031
Amd now we've given it its first sanding pass at 80 grit and gave it a wet wipe. Next will be 120, then bevel the edges, sand it to 150, route out the underside where the leg plates will be, install the threaded inserts, sand everything back to 180, then buff on 2 coats of osmo and then a nano coat to finish.

This one will be a hall wayvtable then were going to make the dining tavle which is 3m x 1.2m x 50mm

>>2933033
Did a yest run with the legs just screwed in quickly to see how it would look in its place

Is it possible to clean up and and seal this baseboard trim while its still attached to the wall? Its old red oak trim thats been beat to hell but I want to clean it up and put a gloss coat of polyurethane or something similar on it

>>2933110
You can clean it up with sanding sponges but it’ll be damn hard to get all smooth that way. Maybe with a block plane/palm plane and some filler but it might be easier to just remove it

>>2933110
What's going to happen if you start sanding it is that the original color will come back where you've hit it. The problem is that it's full of holes and bruises that won't get hit, and they will stand out like a sore thumb. Either you plane it down significantly or it will look terrible.

>>2933111
>>2933126
good points. the drywall in this home is pretty brittle, either the wood splits where the nails are on removal, or theres holes in the drywall where the prybar was used to remove the nails.

I did a test in the stairwell, where it was much easier to remove the baseboard, completely sanded down to bare wood, restained and sealed, and it turned on nicely. if i could do this to the rest of the trim that would be solid

>>2933133
youre just a monkey with a prybar
cut the old paint at the top and utilise shallow wooden / plastic wedges on each nail simmultaneos

>>2933293
Just to preempt the inevitable "I did what you suggested and now my wall is full of hammer holes."

Hey /wwg/, I'm black and grew up without a dad so I never learned a lot of basic handyman skills. For instance, I don't know shit about wood. I don't even know what this is called, but as you can see, it's peeling off. What's the peeling part called? Can I just like, glue it back on? What if I wanted to replace it entirely, would that be a viable beginner project?

>>2933395
Here's the other side of this strip, if it matters.

>>2933397
And finally, I also have these boards my sister (yes, I'm aware I'm a triplebeta) cut for me from another piece of furniture, as the original unit's shelves were damaged beyond repair. They don't match the rest of the unit, obv. Would it be easy/possible/worth the hassle to peel the wood skin (idk) off and replace it with something that matches the rest of the entertainment center?
I kind of hate the ugly orange wood, but I'm guessing that re-staining it (?) would be far beyond my capabilities as someone with fetus-tier skills in this department.

>>2933395
>>2933397
It's a veneer. Specifically called edge banding. By the looks of it you can probably glue it back on with straight wood glue. New you usually buy this stuff in rolls with pre-applied heat activated adhesive, meaning you literally iron it on. It could not possibly be easier.
Mother's day kisses.

>>2933401
Thanks mom.

>>2933397
>>2933401
Use strips of painter's tape to clamp it on if you're just regluing it, wood glue needs pressure to set properly.

>>2933400
Really depends on what it's actually made of, but the matching shelves suggest the entire thing is just veneered particleboard, but the sides could be solid wood, I can't really judge from what I can see. Getting them to match is going to be tough, especially since you don't like the main color to begin with.

Another option is to just completely replace those shelves with something that contrasts or compliments the main body.

>>2929090 (OP)
i'm building a 30' retaining wall with 6x6" 6' home depot lumber
I have the foundation super flat and compact, but the bottom timbers are warped to shit. They don't lay flat, one side always raises into the air or doesn't line up correctly. Should I try my best to get one end to lay flat and straight, then let gravity and the timbers on top smush the other end back into being flat? Should I use extra sand underneath to stabilize the raised ends so they don't wobble? There's maybe .75" of difference from end to end.
Pre-sanded and painted picrel. They also have much larger cracks now from being so dry, they've been under my awning all year.

>>2933395
Edge banding. It may or may not be entirely made out of oak.

>>2933416
Thanks mom.
>>2933444
Thanks dad.
You guys are lifesavers. Thanks for answering my retard-tier questions. o7