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Thread 2935141

22 posts 20 images /diy/
Anonymous No.2935141 >>2935161 >>2935230 >>2935239 >>2935645 >>2936333 >>2936740
Has anyone had experience with these? Are they useful with an angle grinder? If not, is there anything that does the same job?

I need to hold the workpiece and keep the tool stationary, rather than trying to hold the tool and keeping the workpiece stationary.
Anonymous No.2935158
No idea about those in particular, but the quality probably varies wildly between manufacturers. If an angle grinder fits in it, it should hold it. A bench grinder would be better if you have access to one, and a vice should be fine to hold an angle grinder if you need to go that route
Anonymous No.2935161 >>2935191
>>2935141 (OP)
>doesnt have a chain vise on his table
shramefu drispray
Anonymous No.2935191 >>2936332
>>2935161
Nice. I was just thinking about this again and glad you posted it. I still gotta weld some square tubing onto my outside bench for a drop in chain pipe vise...
Anonymous No.2935227 >>2935478
Get one of these you fucking pleb
Anonymous No.2935230 >>2935479
>>2935141 (OP)
I have exactly the model in your picture.
It's a complete shit. The ball does not fasten securely the upper part (which can be exchanged from vice to pipe holder). Whole thing wobbles. It's a worthless cheap crap.
It's so shitty that even the threads are not trapezoidal.

My angle grinder handlebars use a standard M8 thread to fasten them. When I needed to hold in place my angle grinder, I took a M8 bolt, used one nut to secure the bolt in the hole for the handle, added another, long nut (coupling nut) that can just be held tight by a normal vice.

There are also dedicated stands for angle grinders (that also use the holes for handlebar to fasten the angle grinder, plus some extra rods that just stabilise the housing to prevent rotations thereof). I also got one of those, it's nice for clean & precise cutting, and you can also use it to hold the angle grinder in place, alas tool can be secured only vertically in such contraption.
I used the vice method for I wanted to secure a 115mm angle grinder, and I got the stand for a 230mm one.
Anonymous No.2935239
>>2935141 (OP)
these are made for drillls only for a reason
you don't want 30k rpms attached to this flimsy shit
Anonymous No.2935478 >>2935485 >>2935571
>>2935227
Pardon my stupid, but I don't see how this will help.

I'm trying to cut lines into metal, not abrade the edges of it.

Pic is a rather bad cut made by a bandsaw because I just cannot make straight lines with an angle grinder if I hold the angle grinder.
Anonymous No.2935479
>>2935230
Yeah, I kind of figured they would be shitty if every one looked about the same and had less-than-stellar Amazon ratings.

Thanks, won't be getting one of them. Looking at a chain vise right now.
Anonymous No.2935485
>>2935478
You do the rough cut with whatever and you clean up the edge with the disc sander.
Anonymous No.2935571 >>2935629
>>2935478
Do you want to cut tiny strips of metal? get this then
Anonymous No.2935574
>if only a simple hand tool could easily solve this problem
Anonymous No.2935629
>>2935571
I want to cut pieces of metal ... and not spend too much money somehow.

But pic is real, I'll consider it.
Anonymous No.2935645
>>2935141 (OP)
These are generally what people use
Anonymous No.2936332
>>2935191
>I still gotta weld some square tubing onto my outside bench for a drop in chain pipe vise...

The slick way is drill a second hole in the box tubing for a large nut, hit the threads with anti-seize then screw in a short bolt to press on the inner box tube so the vise doesn't shift so I do.

I lube what moves including the chain then hit the rest with waste oil-base paint now and then. My outdoor vises have been in the weather for near thirty years and not having to clean up welding and cutting swarf is glorious.

With a chain (or bench, it doesn't matter) vise secured, I take a length of thicc pipe about 2" OD, weld a plate to that then bolt another vise to the plate. That lets me rotate my vises 360 degrees/

I also do this with my tristands because they're amply stable. I sometime weld a hunk of plate or angle so I can drill holes to bolt parts to it securely as not everything fits well in a vise.
Take your time and make everything versatile. I use stainless bolts mostly and anti-seize the threads. A mix of welded and bolted construction can be much more useful than one or the other.
Anonymous No.2936333 >>2936377
>>2935141 (OP)
You can clamp your metal to a sheet of plywood then use an abrasive blade or a cold saw blade in a circular saw running against a clamped wooden "fence".
Anonymous No.2936377 >>2936459
>>2936333
Honestly, didn't even know they had such blades.
Anonymous No.2936459 >>2936667 >>2937091
>>2936377
They do, but they're not rated for the rpm your typical circular saw runs at, metal chop saws are typically lower speed. You pretty much have to run an abrasive blade if you're going to use a standard saw, and have to buy a lower speed saw if you want to reap the benefits of quieter, cleaner cutting with a metal blade.
Anonymous No.2936667 >>2936712 >>2937091
>>2936459
>metal chop saws
What is the name of these if I wanted to look them up? I'm referring to those tools that have a bandsaw as the cutting agent but function like a miter saw. (I'm assuming that's what you're talking about, but I may be mistaken.)
Anonymous No.2936712
>>2936667
>What is the name of these if I wanted to look them up? I'm referring to those tools that have a bandsaw as the cutting agent but function like a miter saw. (I'm assuming that's what you're talking about, but I may be mistaken.)
What you're talking about is a swivel head bandsaw and I have seen some that are quite small (like a 4x6 bandsaw head) I think AVE might have one on his channel. They also make them for bigger industrial use, and the price goes up fast the bigger it is.

There are also abrasive chop saws, which is your standard metal cutting saw that everyone had back in the day. And then Dry cut saws, which run about half the rpm of an abrasive saw and use carbide tipped blades to cut mild steel and aluminum. Don't try and cut anything hard with them though as it will immediately fuck the blade up.

And then there are cold cut saws which turn way slower still. They aren't very common outside of industrial applications.
Anonymous No.2936740
>>2935141 (OP)
The tool clamp is okay, the ball joint and bench clamp are crap. Pic rel wil do it, clamp it onto a piece of square stock or even wood and screw (don’t clamp) that onto something.
Anonymous No.2937091
>>2936459
There are plenty these days rated for circular saw use. I mostly use 6" abrasive blades (persuaded to fit with washers) which fit my angle grinders but that's because I buy them by the box.

Search "steel cutting blade for circular saw" on Scamazon for 7-1/4" examples with good reviews. I do all my cutting and grinding outdoors to avoid cleaning up dust or chips.

A box of 6" abrasive blades AKA "abrasive cutoff wheels" is more versatile since they will cut hardened steel and if one wears or breaks that not a problem.

>>2936667
They are not as useful as they look. I gave mine away as the thick kerf makes cutting much more effort. I suggest ignoring them.