Thread 2936372

I hate this shit you like you wouldn't believe
>replacing bushings in car
>decide to repaint the control arms since they're already out and look gross
>wire wheel them and get some of pic related and the corresponding metal primer
>spray a couple light coats of the primer within a couple minutes of each other just like directions say
>directions say to spray top coat immediately after primer (even though primer say it needs 48 hours between applications)
>okay.jpg
>spray like 3 passes of the top coat within a couple minutes - still pretty thin: can almost see primer underneath in certain spots.
>hang dry in garage which is like 90F and 30% humidity
>come back after a couple days: still tacky
>can dent it with my fingernail almost a week later
>paint flakes off if you even look at it wrong now
This stuff made a couple hour job suddenly take almost two weeks. I swear Rustoleum used to not be this awful like 10-15 years ago. What does /diy/ use for enamel paint?

>>2936372 (OP)
krylon rust tough industrial. but the price got higher than nuts on a giraffe after the kungflu
zeroXrust is good shit too but expensive
if i care it gets shot with a gun using hardener mixed in. thats literally aerosol superglue and gets rock hard in 15 minutes. nasty shit for humans though

You can cure it in a regular oven. Would recommend doing it outside, it's going to stink but it'll make it much more durable and completely get rid of tackiness

>>2936380
Yeah the Krylon is almost like twice as expensive, but honestly that's a price I'd be willing to pay for time sensitive jobs.
>>2936382
On some newer parts I got out, I tried putting them in the sun a couple days, which measured out like 130F. They definitely dried faster, but still not 100% cured. Do you just buy a scrap kitchen oven for that? I feel like my neighbors would hate me kek.

>>2936384
I have a curbside oven in my shop and a toaster oven for the smaller stuff

If it's cold out sometimes I will hit what needs painting with a propane weed burner to heat it up. You can watch the part sweat out moisture until it is dry and then hit it with the paint. The heat will make it cure a lot faster. Of course you have to do this before you spray the paint.

>>2936372 (OP)
Most paints take like a month to fully cure you fucking dumb nigger ape

>>2936380
Yeah that isocyanate hardener is good shit. Japan drier werks good too. Sometimes I use them both.

>>2936435
lol, lmao even.
If I can't get the part cleaned, stripped, primed, painted and back on the car in the same afternoon then I'm not interested.

>>2936463
Then throw it in the oven like it tried to diversify your nation. Just make sure there are no plastic/rubber parts on it

>>2936372 (OP)
Never had any issues with it and I've used it on car parts.
>clean
>spray with primer
>let primer cure in the sun for a few hours
>spray a coat of paint on it every half hour until satisfactory coverage
>let it dry in the sun
Can also speed it up with a heat gun in my experience.

>>2936372 (OP)
So enamel paint is great for metal, wood/basically any surface the product says you can use it on. It is hard, glass like, but that makes it brittle. While that is fine for static loads, it's a very bad thing for dynamic ones and you need to make sure you use a flexible primer. Furthermore, metal is an absolute bitch to paint and you need to make sure you get every bit of rust off. Chemical/electrolysis/sanding is a must and you can't wait too long or it will flash rust. Average Joe who doesn't know now "primes" after this step, which would normally be fine for an indoor cast iron whatever, BUT the problem is primer is also porous as to allow paint to adhere to it properly. This is find for wood, wood can breath, plastic doesn't give a shit either so long as it isn't the melting plastic type of primer.paint. Metal? Metal will SUCC the moist air in between the primer and start rusting again. What you needed first was a "sealer", preferably an epoxy based one which you would prefer because it's chemical dry and more durable as dynamic metal primer.

TLDR order of operations for cars :
>patching/(epoxy based) sealer to banish the rust from primers mouth breathing
>primer because pigment doesn't glue well to surfaces
>paint because primer can't be both and look good.
>(optional) Topcoat to protect the paint from your knuckle dragging, UV damage and give further sheen/deepness to the paint

And if you use "paint and primer in one" you and the can it comes in should be taken out and shot. Enamel also takes week-month to cure proper

>>2936463
And now you know what most cars come in ugly 80's remote colors now.

Ah dumb ass didn't use MasterCoat AG 111

>>2936833
>TLDR bla bla
Blaster goes ttsssshhhh
HIGH SOLID FILL PRIMER GOES BRRRR

>>2936372 (OP)
wow, you really suck at painting. try shaking the can a lot, also use better primer, also get good.

>>2936372 (OP)
put a fan on the part to give it lots of airflow. the high-boiling solvents do not evaporate with heat, they just need air.

>>2939037
>Ah dumb ass didn't use MasterCoat AG 111
That shit is the real deal, but expensive!

>>2939039
Ah a fellow landlord.

>>2936372 (OP)
Enamel takes forever to cure all the way. It can take weeks or months before it turns unti a nice hard shell. This shouldnt be a big deal for your control arms that you never look at.

>>2939103
I shook those stupid cans for two minutes before applying and shook like every 3rd or 4th pass. The primer was literally the one recommended on the can. Their shit just sucks now anon.
>>2939118
I ended up just sticking them outside in the sun all day: they got to like 130F - at least made the tackiness go away.
>>2940353
It was a big deal because you have to assemble them to shitload of heavy parts while compressing the suspension. It ended up scratching everywhere, so I just hit the bare spots with a touch up pen.

I think in the future I'm just going to dunk them in evaporust and hit them with krylon like the one anon said. The fans are a good idea too since I don't want a full size oven in the garage.

any anons ever make a refillable spray paint can?
i hate cleaning the air gun out and its pointless for a quick job
i was thinking of some way to install a 1/4 npt port on the neck of an empty can. probably brass and solder it on. then fill an charge with liquid propane for propellant through a schrader valve
probably have to play around to get the charge volume correct

>>2942731
Go to a paint shop and learn how they make their rattle cans

>>2942749
i know how cans are crimped together and charged and they dont do that locally anyways. even if you want a special color you have to send off to have it canned
im not looking for the professional solution. im just trying to be a cheap jewfuck and roll my own. the scar/mame factor does not bother me
i want to hear if the mercaptan gums up the paint and how thin it should be to get a good pattern out of the tip like oem shit

>>2942731
Sounds dangerous.

>>2942731
Why not get something like this? I know there are cheaper options out there too. Just pressurize with compressed air. Of course you'll still have to clean it by putting some solvent in it and shaking it up and spraying it out when you're done still...

Those $10 HF spray guns have done me well. Yeah cleaning up afterward is always a pain in the ass, but worth it over paying a premium for spray paint if you are covering much area.

>>2942826
i looked at those but wasnt convinced it wouldnt gum up in a hurry from nigger lazy cleaning or sitting half full and then it $50-75. plus they explicitly say not for paint. not that im one to always follow directions
its the ~2ish can of paint jobs that are killing me. not enough to justify the assache of the paint gun post orgasm cleanup but now that paint is $10+/can it elevated beyond a trivial project expense

>>2942828
I hear ya man... It's rough out there. All I can say is batch up your shit until you get enough to make painting with the gun worthwhile, or just eat the spray paint cost. You know re-filling a small can with paint will still be a giant assache in the long run. Hell even spray paint cans themselves can be an assache if you let them sit for too long. It sucks. Sometimes a quart can and a $0.25 chip brush is my go to, but that has its own separate set of problems...

I use the rust-oleum hard-hat enamels to good effect. They are harder to find though.

The reason paints suck these days is EPA VOC regulations.