Thread 2937515

Last Thread: >>2933197
Spurious help edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#372

>>2935311
FML no fully functional 3dp scale shahed replica

>finally get Marlin config to work on 3d printer with a board swap
>think I'm home free
>first test print shows fairly accurate dimensions in X and Y
>Z-direction total object height should be 2cm
>halfway through the print it's just a melted squarish blob with a height of no more than 4mm
>kill print

Anyone have any ideas? I tried changing steps per mm in my EEPROM just to get Z to move the right amount, the value I had to put in was 1600 steps/mm. I know this can't be the right way to do things.

Could it have anything to do with the fact that I'm running dual Z motors through a single connection? My printer used this config before the board swap, so on the new mainboard I just plugged in the single Z connection.

Is there any other way to adjust scaling and movement stuff in Marlin that is not steps per mm?

>>2937522
>>Could it have anything to do with the fact that I'm running dual Z motors through a single connection?

Did you increase the driver current to power them both?

>>2937523
I didn't even know that was an option, thanks anon. I'll look into it. I've been forced to figure out the right firmware settings through trial and error because of my uncommon, old, and low-end printer, not much info out there.

>>2937522
>I know this can't be the right way
Becauae the math doesn't add up?
Or because you think it's so. ehow magically different than putting that in at compile time? It's not.
Regarding the math:
Im assuming your steppers are 200 full steps per rotation aka 1.8 degree per full step.
What is the pitch of your leadscrews?
What is the u-stepping setting on your drivers?
Make sure that if you increase driver current because you think they are slipping that cooling is adequate or you watch the temps for a while.
IMO the most accessible way to test if your current is adequate would be to either try how much your Z axis is able to push / lift or how hard it can accelerate before it just slips as acceleration is proportional to force.
If it accelerates much harder than what you have in your config just fine, then I would assume it is not the current as I can not see how, during your print the motors would ever see resistance great enough to make them slip.
You could also just try capping Z acceleration and see if the print fails.

>>2937525
Well, I had a look because its been a while since I ran duel Z motors. Apparently you shouldn't really need to up the current, I know I didnt put mine up much.
I did read that stealthchop doesn't like high Esteps, if you use that on z axis.

>>2937529
>Becauae the math doesn't add up?
yes--the motors on all axes are identical units, their steps per mm should match, as far as I understand. One of them being 80 and one being 1600 to get accurate movement doesn't seem right.

I might be a total retard though--your mentioning the leadscrew pitch made me realize I hadn't even thought of that. I've been messing with the Marlin firmware for days and I guess it made me forget to check on other stuff.

>>2937529
>What is the u-stepping setting on your drivers?
Where do I check this, in marlin or in the actual driver datasheets? I have TMC2209 drivers. Datasheet says
>Each step can be a fullstep or a microstep, in which there are 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, or 256 microsteps per fullstep.

>>2937529
>>2937530
It's probably not the current then. It's probably just the leadscrew stuff, and I'm probably just an idiot.

>>2937515 (OP)
Has there been any movement on the 5th axis 3d printing open source thing?

Last I heard about it was at a convention where they had a modified prusa i3 running the 5th axis table where Y usually goes but they were using G code tool paths only through post processors available only through rhino

I've only used my printer so far for minis and game storage. You guys got any cool project ideas to make? Something with assembly, moving parts, that kind of project

>>2937534
what's the difference between a 5 axis printer using a planar slicer vs a 4 axis using non-planar?

>>2937566
Why would you run more than 3 axis but feed code from a planar slicer?
Also why is it that the number of indeoendent axis seems to be a meams to ita own end to >>2937566
and >>2937534 ?
I'd rather care about actual benefits or solutions to existing problems. Or at least specific motion abilities than 'number more bigger'.

>>2937564
terrain and props, and board game storage and upgrades.
screw top pill containers, bug collectors
custom drawer inserts for organization
ball joint figures
dice boxes
knob/switch upgrades

I don't do a lot of mechanical prints beyond hinges. snap together toys that are laid out on a card or sprues seem pretty cool. diy is mostly filament printers, not sure if you're resin side- not sure what resin is good for besides minis.

>>2937566
>>2937567
>laughs in 6-axises

>>2937567
5th axis printing eliminates the need for supports on external overhangs and allows for layer lines to be printed in different axis giving parts superior tensile strength

No more fails at layer lines adhesion limitations ever

>>2937566
Two ways to skin a cat, but the 5th axis will allow to surf on 2 axis that aren’t touchable by that 4th axis….

A and b bridging across a non linear curve without a support or relying on a 45 degree limitation overhang

>>2937534
Joshua Bird can print steep overhangs with just a 4-axis printer thanks to the rotary design, and he made a working pre/post-processing script with which to produce g-code for arbitrary models. Look him up on YouTube if you haven’t seen it already.

Though I’d rather see that warping slicer technique applied for independent bed/gantry skew printing, or even just pointy-nozzle printing.

>>2937564
Interactive dice-rolling towers?

>>2937569
Redundant degree of freedom, no better than 5. At that point why bother with the swash-plate, just have independent motion on the two linkages on each arm of the delta robot instead.

>>2937584
>At that point why bother with the swash-plate, just have independent motion on the two linkages on each arm of the delta robot instead.
Because a widely-supported bed is much more stable than a small print head. Adding more degrees of freedom there would reduce how tightly its motions are constrained. And besides, 3-point kinematic bed supports is the best setup to be had, so might as well make use of that. That delta has the same (mechanical) degrees of freedom as a Ratrig or HevORT, and less than many Vorons.

>>2937581
Again: There is nothing magical about ab arbitar, 5th axis or the number of acis being 5. This isn't bible science.
It is specific motion capabilities that achieve what you're thinking of.
The fact that you can (mostly) eliminate the need for supports in such a fashion and by means of other methods is obvious to anyone and goes without saying.
The real associated problem that imbeciles whose mental processes don't go beyond recognition of the external shape of objects constantly miss is:
A 5 axis robot is trivial. Just go get one and stick a printhead on it. Or any tool for that matter. Tadaa there is your n-axis x-machine. Meanwhile, like most things nowadays, it is the strategy and thus the software that leverages the hardware. A 3 axis cartesian bot knows only one solution for a position. Add a rotary axis and you get two solutions, one of which is wrong. Add arbitary movement capability, as can be achieved with a 5 axis design, and there are infinite solutions to one position. And even more ways to approach it. Figuring out which solutions are illegal is still trivial. The real deal lies in efficient optimization in the end. Same with CNC mills that have the same DOFs: Infinite ways to skin the cat, but you can be so much faster, have so many less moves, so much nicer surfaces just by actually following contours and not just putting a grid on everything. And getting a slicer to do that well takes 100 engineers working in several teams for years.

>>2937586
I guess you’re right that it would be flimsier.
>HevORT
Ah, HevORT is what that thing is called, neat. I think I’ve seen a similar thing using linear rails that looks to have even more degrees of freedom. Ratrig has some freedom of motion, but the guide rails for the balls aren’t long enough for much angle. Barely better than the quad gantry tilt of a Voron 2.4. I’d want at least 30 degrees for arbitrary overhangs.

>>2937588
Well Bird’s g-code morphing that I mentioned earlier is a quick and dirty way of using existing optimised slicers to slice the file into warped non-intersecting planes. It’s pot perfect, since you always get the same number of layers on two vertical paths, but besides that it seems unreasonably useful. We just need to get it to talk to HevORT-like machines. The reverse kinematics aspect seems like a solved problem if you’ve got 5 degrees of freedom in the machine and 5 in the toolpath too, because the toolpath also defines tool angles.

>>2937588
>>2937604
Ah it looks like getting Klipper or whatever to actually talk more than 3 kinematic degrees of freedom is tough. I’ll have to see what Bird and the other rotating-head printers do. The slicer side is fine, it’s the post-processing-script that generates the g-code with rotational information in it.

>>2937515 (OP)
>>2936457
The printing's done. Now to clean her up and get to painting

i spent 13 bucks on glitter paint and it sucked

Don't tell my waifu, but I'm slowly putting this together for her birthday in Aug. Backing is glow in the dark green too :3
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1101700-shoji-art-lamp-sakura-kanagawa-led#profileId-1129692

>>2937604
>I think I’ve seen a similar thing using linear rails that looks to have even more degrees of freedom. Ratrig has some freedom of motion, but the guide rails for the balls aren’t long enough for much angle.
Those have the same degrees of freedom and different ranges of travel.

>Barely better than the quad gantry tilt of a Voron 2.4.
How much range of motion do Vorons have? https://youtu.be/bgkK7Fez8VU

>>2937618
How's it feel to touch? You can feel the layers?

>>2937618
What nozzle diameter and filament? Looks really nice.

>>2937624
>looks to have even more degrees of freedom
Must have been retarded when I wrote that, you’re right of course.

>vid of ratrig
Huh, thats more than I thought, looks like up to 20 degrees in some orientations. I’ve only ever seen a flying gantry tilt 5 degrees or so, maybe up to 10.
Still, I’d want more than the Ratrig. Imagine getting 45 degrees of bed tilt, coupled with a really pointy nozzle that gives you 45 degrees of clearance around the nozzle, you could print vertical lines! Definitely worth having one such tool on a toolchanger printer.

Now I’m wondering if the g-code warping used by a bed mesh to get a perfect first layer could be used for non-planar printing without having to have 5-axis g-code be interpreted by Klipper.

How does the Ratrig bed mount handle fast Z-hops, can it clatter or bounce on the balls?

What would cause only intermittent clogging on a per-print basis?
>Ender 3
>get new spool of filament I've used before
>first print prints fine
>next print is immediately fucked up, seems to be underextrusion
>notice that I can barely even force the filament out the hot nozzle when pushing it from behind at the same time I turn the extruder
>turn the heat up higher and put even more pressure on the filament, eventually something gives way and it comes out as normal
>maybe it was a clog
>pull the filament out of the hotend for good measure
>cut off the blob and put the filament back in
>next print prints fine
>print after that is fucked up again, in the same way
>the same process fixes it

I don't get it. Surely if there was something stuck in the hotend/nozzle and pulling the filament fixes the issue, it would be fixed permanently? Surely if the hotend/nozzle itself was damaged in a way that caused underextrusion, forcing the filament out and/or pulling+changing it would not fix the issue even temporarily?

I haven't used another spool since it started happening so I don't know if it's specific to this spool yet, but even if it is, I still don't understand what could be happening in the hotend.

>>2937618
Show us that orange masterpiece in the back.

should i buy the p1s with ams or buy the k2 plus with ams?
is creality still jank?

>>2937700
The K2 Plus is janky. Their K1C and K1 Max look decently well dialled in if you don’t have brittle filaments being pushed through that PTFE tube, but the K2 Plus seems to have fundamental issues, including heat-creep. Watch reviews.

>>2937682
Maybe it’s heat-creep? Do you turn the printer off immediately once it’s finished printing? If it cools down normally with the main cooling fan for ten minutes after a print I can’t see it being heat-creep.

Could annealed fibre-reinforced PLA be a good material to make the internal components of a Voron out of? Especially that self-annealing Polymaker stuff, they do a glass-fibre-filled version, though I wonder if trying to deal with any warping of CF-core PLA would be worth it for the better layer adhesion. Either way I suspect fibre-reinforced annealed PLA will deflect less under a given load at most temperatures compared to ABS.

Thoughts?

>>2937638
>I’ve only ever seen a flying gantry tilt 5 degrees or so, maybe up to 10.
To my knowledge, no one's made use of it for non-planar printing, so it's relegated to leveling. Even if you bump the bed or a Z screw, it's probably not going to tilt much relative to the limits of the mechanism.

>Imagine getting 45 degrees of bed tilt, coupled with a really pointy nozzle that gives you 45 degrees of clearance around the nozzle, you could print vertical lines!
Yes, that would be a target for actually using a tilting bed for non-planar printing. I think HevORTs can get close to that.

>Now I’m wondering if the g-code warping used by a bed mesh to get a perfect first layer could be used for non-planar printing
IIRC there are working versions of something like this.

>How does the Ratrig bed mount handle fast Z-hops, can it clatter or bounce on the balls?
The balls sit on pins, held in place by strong magnets. It's plenty for positive-G maneuvers, but the beds are big slabs of aluminum. The 500mm bed weighs something like 13 pounds. I suspect they'd jump the magnets in the ballpark of -2Gs (~20k mm/sec^2). Which is a lot for Z acceleration. But that's not something to push if you get a setup that can, since if it jumps off the magnets, only the wiring (including 1500W of mains) will be holding it to the printer.

>>2937682
>>2937730
Yes, that sounds like heat creep. As you print, the filament itself acts as a heat sink that cools the cold end and heat break. If you stop the filament while keeping the hot end hot, the filament in the print head will heat up, and depending on the particulars of the setup, this can soften the filament enough to prevent feeding. In my experience this is most likely in silk PLA and TPU. The remedy is to deal with the excessive filament heating somehow. You could add an "unload filament" command at the end of prints using materials prone to this problem, and reload it when you start the next print. You could let the print head cool off for a while, though this may take a while to be effective. What I did is I rigged up a (rather powerful) aquarium pump to a length of vinyl tubing that I ran along the print head cable bundle, and modified the print head to direct a jet of auxiliary air at the heat break (while still functioning normally when the pump is off). This has fixed all heat creep for me.

>>2937738
>Could annealed fibre-reinforced PLA be a good material to make the internal components of a Voron out of?
No. PLA still creeps badly. It could work for parts that don't need to bear loads or maintain dimensional accuracy, but structural parts need to resist creep unless you want to recalibrate/straighten your printer every time you use it. If you can't currently print ABS, you might instead try PCCF. That has heat resistance, creep resistance, strength, and stiffness superior to ABS, so it should do the job.

Micro Center has posted a video about how corn is turned into PLA filament.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvaRMeTFF7Y

>>2937762
>IIRC there are working versions of something like this
Ooh I’ll have to look into that
>strong magnets
Better than gravity alone for sure. Probably not something to worry about even with fast z-hops, unless someone is uploading adversarial g-code to your printer to burn your house down.

Though I wonder what the wear on the balls is like. Could you extend the guide rails to deliberately get steeper angles?

>>2937764
Couldn’t you just put a stronger fan on the main hot-end heat-sink? That, plus a bimetal heat-break should stop heat-creep, no?

>>2937765
I figured fibre-reinforced PLA wouldn’t creep as much as regular PLA, but I need to check out some measured properties to compare it to ABS. At least I bet it would creep less than ABS at 120C enclosure temp, though I probably wouldn’t use printed components for a PEEK printer.

>PCCF
Sounds more expensive and harder to print on an open bed than ASA-CF, but definitely still worth considering for a heated chamber machine.

Maybe the real best method is to use the printer for EDM/ECM to make all the parts out of metal. Though the negative feed-rate thing looks like a hassle.

>>2937780
>Could you extend the guide rails to deliberately get steeper angles?
Presumably. You'd also have to lengthen the screws that hold the balls below the plate, which would cut into Z height. The HevORT linear rails are better for large tilts, but are lot more complicated/expensive.

>Couldn’t you just put a stronger fan on the main hot-end heat-sink?
Space constraints. I had the pump set up already as a laser air assist. The stock heatbreak air duct actually had a spot that was ideal for the mod with minimal changes, so it was a drop-in alteration.

>That, plus a bimetal heat-break
The Dragon high-flow is relatively prone to heat creep despite that. Better flow than a v6 though, and it's just an issue with some materials.

>>2937780
>I figured fibre-reinforced PLA wouldn’t creep as much as regular PLA
Possible, but "fiber reinforced" filaments use tiny pieces of fiber, not the long continuous strands that would enable the filler to bear loads deposited on it by creep in the matrix. The fibers can help with strength and stiffness, but creep seems to be mostly a matrix property. https://youtu.be/4VSu_gG-nlk?t=962

>Sounds more expensive
Probably, but there's overlap.

>and harder to print on an open bed than ASA-CF
Depends on the brand/formulation. I've tried Prusa PCCF, and it distorts about as much as PLA in open air. It's almost always out of stock since people buy it up as soon as a batch is available.

>>2937794
>it distorts about as much as PLA in open air
Now that’s impressive. Does regular PC warp less than regular ASA as it prints? I figured that higher temperature filaments inherently warp more.

Hmm, what would it take to have a tool in a tool changer printer that deposits a long carbon fibre atop a 3D printed layer? I’m thinking it still needs a heated nozzle to remelt/iron the layer so the fibre stays in place before you deposit a layer atop it. If you just spool out extra as you park the tool, and reel it in again as you pick it up again, you wouldn’t need to chop the fibre. At least if you were just laying fibre around an unbroken perimeter each layer, making a spiral fibre path. Probably more flexible to add a cutter in there.

Feeding filament into your nozzle so you can print filament and fibre at the same time is probably doable but, seems much more difficult. Anisoprint went this route though so maybe it’s better.

>>2937632
Cant. It's really smooth save for the topmost surfaces, obviously, and even there the stepping is very tiny, and the other model i've printed with the same settings looks really smooth after a few coats of airbrush primer
>>2937637
0.2 and Elegoo Rapid on a Neptune 4 Pro with 0.08 layers.
>>2937688
>Masterpiece
Not really, that one was just a test i ran on my first machine a few years ago.
Though it might be a good idea to reprint her now that i got the process down.
I used to print these instead of benchies for a good while back then.

>>2937827
>Elegoo rapid
*Rapid Pla

>>2937586
>HevORT
>water cooled hot end
>XY steppers out of the main enclosure
wait, all you’d need to do is add a waterblock to the extruder stepper and move the Z steppers outside the enclosure and you’ll have a PEEK machine, no?

>>2937730
>>2937764
I rarely ever turn the printer off. It just idles when it's done printing, with the hotend fan continuing to spin.
>If you stop the filament while keeping the hot end hot, the filament in the print head will heat up, and depending on the particulars of the setup, this can soften the filament enough to prevent feeding
My Ender uses the typical gantry-mounted extruder+at least 12 inches of bowden tube+hotend setup, and I'm currently using non-silk PLA.
How would the softening of filament in the hotend make it harder for pressure coming from all the way back at the extruder to force it out?
Or do you mean the heat travels all the way from the hotend through the bowden tube and to the filament sitting in the extruder, making it too soft to get a good grip? But like I said, when it happens, it's hard to force the filament out even when I just forget the extruder and try to push it into the nozzle with my bare hands.

Is it possible that my heatsink is not heatsinking well enough because it's become filled with dust/gunk? I have never disassembled my hotend in the 6 years since I've owned the printer.

>>2937829
>and you’ll have a PEEK machine, no?
Not quite. The hotend/thermistor/heater need to be built to handle the ~500C needed, and most are not. Same with the bed/magnets/build surface. It needs active chamber heat and a good printing drybox.

>>2937835
>How would the softening of filament in the hotend make it harder for pressure coming from all the way back at the extruder to force it out?
Normally, the filament is a little narrower than the tube it moves through, which lets it feed easily. When a filament softens from heat creep, the feed pressure causes it to squish and widen to fit tightly in the tube, greatly increasing the force required to push it through. If you have a stiff filament and good extruder, this can carry on for a bit, but it can get to the point where the extruder skips or the filament buckles (more common with flexible filaments).

>Is it possible that my heatsink is not heatsinking well enough because it's become filled with dust/gunk?
Yes. Higher ambient temperatures also contribute to heat creep

>>2937845
>the ~500C needed
Clarification: The ~400-450C needed for PEEK. Temp ratings for such components are commonly for 500C.

>normie
Resin printers are cooler because they use lasers
>you
Fdm printers are more versatile and cheap
>you later
Fdm printers are jack of all trades master of none and not even peek is good enough for engineering needs

>>2937845
> hotend/thermistor/heater need to be built to handle the ~500C needed, and most are not. Same with the bed/magnets/build surface. It needs active chamber heat and a good printing drybox.
yeah but those are easier to handle, not that i understand why normal ceramic heaters with stainless nozzles cant take 420 degrees
the belts and motion components look to be fine?

>>2937848
resin printers havent used lasers since they went below ten grand per printer when the patents ran out

the only thing fdm lacks is sub millimetre resolution, that and extreme heat resistance. in all other aspects its usable for basically any engineering use
so long as you have the filament and printer for it, seldom is peek required

>>2937855
>the belts and motion components look to be fine?
The steel parts, yes, in and of themselves. Any plastic doodads holding things together may need replacement. Something to watch out for is the different thermal expansion of steel and aluminum, so if you have a rail bolted to an extrusion, the whole thing will banana on you if it gets hot (this matters more with bigger machines). This can mostly be eliminated by using titanium instead (which has similar thermal expansion). Note that carbon fiber also experiences this in the opposite direction (it typically expands less than steel). The belts vary. Gates 2GT high temp EPDM belts are rated for 135C, but others are probably rated for less.

>>2937968
yeah thermal expansion seems like a pain to mitigate, without replacing all the aluminium extrusions with steel somehow
maybe theres a modular steel tube construction system out there

>>2937996
hmm, both rivet-on threaded inserts and weld-on threaded inserts seem like a bad idea for holding a linear rail in place, guess the way to go is using tapped thicker (angle) iron instead of thinner square tubing
angle iron does make bolting on gusset plates easier though

even with mild steel construction, the expansion coefficients might be different to the linear rail

>>2937998
Are you a bad enough dude to make a Unistrut-frame printer?

>even with mild steel construction, the expansion coefficients might be different to the linear rail
They're very close, with particulars depending on the specific alloy used. General heat soaking would be a bigger concern at that point.

>>2937996
how about learn to not overconstrain your shit? I'm sure theres a uni or similar near you that offers introductory mechanical engineering? Might be worth it if you want to mech engineer.
In your particular case:
If you have a structure that is long, so long you worry about differential thermal expansion, then only constrain it along that axis in one place. Usually it helps to fully constrain one end only.

>>2938002
>In your particular case:
The item in question is linear rails, which are typically responsible for constraining some other part of the motion system over their entire lengths. If you have a good way to do that while allowing unconstrained axial thermal expansion, I'm sure the 3D printing industry would be interested in hearing about it.

>>2938001
>unistrut
hmm, $25 per 5ft galvanized length isn't terrible, but only having the channel on one side makes it a lot more limiting where to mount things
>heat soaking
yeah you dont exactly print large parts out of peek, i can see how printing time could be dwarfed by heat soak time

>>2938002
maybe with guide rods, but with linear rails thats a tough problem to solve, assuming you don't want to water-cool your extrusions
which might actually be pretty doable, hmm

is there anything else I should try before buying a new stepper for the extruder?
I disengaged the filament so it isn't under any stress and also tried driving it through the cable for the X axis
the motor makes a single *thud* sound when it's supposed to start but the bronze gear doesn't move at all

>>2938005
Well the obvious answer is: You usually find linear rail bolted to iron and sometimes steel constructions. And usually machines that don't experience hogh thermal stress.
I have gone through this thread and it says no where explicitly but is it implied someone wants to put almost the entire thing into a very hot oven?
>tough problem to solve
not really. There's a lot of common geometries you can use in your design that allow structures to retain practically all stiffness in some directions but be very compliant in others and as such not cause much warping when heated or differentially heated. Especially the internal monologue of the the ultra precission mech engineer fags is consumed by this very topic and thwir books are full of it and many solutions. It's a LINEAR rail. You dont need axial rigidity.
Also:
Put parts in said oven, toast, assemble. Watch it warp as it cools down. When in use and up to temperature shes straight again.

You mega nerds aren't printing out your own hand guns and rifles
Then you fucking failed as scientists
If I had a 3d printer and the money to print
My entire neighborhood would have ak-47s and the police would be fucking terrified to drive through

>>2938018
>And usually machines that don't experience hogh thermal stress
I’m guessing the rails are bolted to metal with a sufficiently similar coefficient of expansion that it doesn’t matter. You can get linear rails made of different steels too, which gives you some freedom as to how to match the two. Maybe for different ferritic alloys it’s close enough anyhow, though for wafer-steppers and other lithography machines I bet it’s still important.
>is it implied someone wants to put almost the entire thing into a very hot oven
PEEK printing needs internal temperature of 130C or higher to get the right crystalline structure. If my rough calculations are correct, with aluminium extrusions you could get in the order of 4mm bowing at the middle of a 400mm rail, which could easily cause binding. The reason we’re looking at aluminium extrusions is because they’re much easier to make a printer around without needing to weld, or fabricate gusset-plates, or tap threads into. Probably some thread tapping for a decent aluminium frame printer, but hey it’s alloy.
>You dont need axial rigidity
How do you provide radial rigidity without constraining it axially? Adding little linear rail segments and carriages to the back of the long linear rail? Or little low-backlash brass dovetail sliding elements? Seems difficult, and I’ve never seen such a thing, but they could exist. I’d probably rather just bolt another (cheaply ground) linear rail to the other side of each extrusion, that might work. I wonder where you can buy 2nd hand linear rails?

>Put parts in said oven, toast, assemble
Might work if you want to only ever use your machine at one internal temperature. Also I’m not too fond of the internal stresses of such a printer while it’s sitting around not heated up.

>>2938022
Nah bro ECM machines are where it’s at.

>>2938005
>but only having the channel on one side makes it a lot more limiting where to mount things
There are a lot of connection options. including the bolt holes along one or more of the other sides.

>>2938018
>There's a lot of common geometries you can use in your design
So how would you attach linear rails to aluminum extrusions in a way that's practical for consumer 3D printers?

>>2938040
You can’t put the burden of proof on him like that, it’s against the regulations of gentlemanly internet disputes!

just spent 3 minutes lubing up my voron 2.4 after putting it off for literal months because i thought i would need to disassemble everything to get to the gantry rails.
i will now be taking questions
but not answering them until tomorrow, because its beddie by times.

I need to replace the heating block on my qidi x-pro and it looks like the easiest way to do that is to just replace the whole heat block and heat break assembly, see pic related.

It sounds simple enough on paper. Find the wires that go to the heaters and the temp sensors, unplug the old ones, plug in the new ones, reassemble the motors and fans and slap the whole extrusion assembly back onto the carriage and bobs your uncle.

What I didn't consider is that literally EVERY SINGLE WIRE coming out of the motherboard goes through the same finger sized wire-jacket/cable harness. I realize that yes, plugging in the new heat blocks and temp sensors is the easy part. The hard part is routing the wires when I'm done.

>>Any tips/tricks?

I'll also post a few other questions, but that's the biggest thing on my mind.

>>2938080
Just to make sure I'm getting my connections right, I'm assuming that "E1_T" is "extruder 1 temperature sensor", "E1_HOT" is "extruder 1 heating element", and "E1_F" is "extruder 1 fan". Is that a pretty safe bet?

I also noticed 2 connectors "MB_F" and "MB2_F" which I assume is "motherboard/mainboard fan 1" which makes sense because one of them is plugged into a little fan that is pointing roughly diagonally at the motherboard, but I don't see a second fan, but it's definitely plugged into something. Any ideas?

>>2938082
There also seems to be a set of USB headers between the ethernet port and USB port in the last picture, just to the left of the wifi module. It's labled UART which makes me wonder if I can just plug an appropriate adapter onto this thing and plug the other end into my computer and suddenly be able to talk to the low level stuff on the board? The pins are definitely laid out as USB, but I don't know if I need a special conversion circuit to actually carry a UART signal or if I can just get a mechanical adapter.

>>2938083
USB cant UART xou need an adapter
which is quite comical given USBs name
>>2938081
Sohnds good but you didnt mention E0? Also they might have routed that however was the neatest and swapped in firmware.
>>2938080
>Replace whole assembly
doesnt it have a normal cartridge?
Drill a hole.
>>2938040
>Practical for consumer
Implying mass production and cheap. Do we get to make our aluminum extrusion dies or do we not have the volume for that?
Also randomly asking a dude for a better product design in a highly competitive market where engineers are employed full time in alot of teams is a bit optimistic. The consumer market / industrial engineering requirement has also evaded my conscious so far.
>>2938041
No not really but optimistic.

>>2938097
>USB cant UART xou need an adapter
Thanks, also sweet cause I just bought one to let me ssh into my z18

>>2938097
>Sohnds good but you didnt mention E0?
They have it labeled as E1 and E2 for stuff that there's two of like the fan on extruder 1 and 2. Was about to ask what you meant about routing and swapping in firmware but I just realized that you probably mean that the plug physically labeled E1 might actually control E2 and vice versa right?

>>2938097
>>Replace whole assembly
>doesnt it have a normal cartridge?
Yeah it does. Unfortunately what happened was I was trying to replace the nozzle and it was VERY stuck and I ended up snapping it off with the thread still inside, and ultimately the threads on the heater block got destroyed, and the temp sensor or heater cartridge (pretty sure it's the sensor) snapped off. If there's a way to repair this I'm open to ideas, but I don't see it. I could just be inexperienced though.

>>2938097
>Do we get to make our aluminum extrusion dies or do we not have the volume for that?
If you can redefine the consumer 3D printer paradigm with a sufficiently superior product, the market would probably bear it.

>Also randomly asking a dude for a better product design in a highly competitive market where engineers are employed full time in alot of teams is a bit optimistic.
And yet, he made this statement here:>>2938018
>>tough problem to solve
>not really.
And went on to imply that he had geometric setups at hand which would be superior to the current practice of firmly bolting linear rails to aluminum extrusions, and then finding ways to deal with the warping. And so I asked what he had in mind. As I said here >>2938004, the industry would be interested in hearing his solution if he actually has one.

>>2938125
It's not 'he' it is (You), me.
But since (You) really want to go there:
You have already moved the goalpost. You now want a consumer / mass market product. You know what I'd do? The same as everyone else:
Bolt crappy linear rail (because it sells because the average consumer isn't very bright and 'understands': "woooow linear rail superior") to either extrusion, pulltrusion, square toob, whatever, adjust and lock it down and not worry about some accuracy lost when 'what if I put that thing into an oven at 500C to be able to print this and that'. Which might not even be the right way to do that.
>superior
I said it addresses the 'what if printer in 500C oven' issue, not that anything was ever universally superior. And since everything is a thermometer and everything is a spring you just design your fucking extrusion to be a series of 1 DOF flexures which is literally easy and solves your made up issue.

>>2938135
>You have already moved the goalpost. You now want a consumer / mass market product.
That's THE goalpost. People currently build consumer printers with mass market aluminum extrusions, mass market linear rails, and mass market bolts. Any alternative has to be competitive with that, accessible to the people currently doing that. To remind you, you entered the reply chain in response to this: >>2937996
>yeah thermal expansion seems like a pain to mitigate
So now, at this point, you seem to regard thermal expansion as such a pain to mitigate that you claim you would not try to mitigate it at all. Well, good for you, but there are setups where ignoring it causes problems as the rail bends over a print, and bends differently for different materials (so you can't just counter the bend once and for all). It's a problem for extra-hot enclosures like for PEEK (which the other anon is interested in), and it's bad enough on the 500mm RatRig that a titanium X beam is regarded as de rigueur if you'll be running a hot enclosure.

>I said it addresses the 'what if printer in 500C oven' issue
Let's see what you said: >>2938018
>There's a lot of common geometries you can use in your design that allow structures to retain practically all stiffness in some directions but be very compliant in others and as such not cause much warping when heated or differentially heated.
What's ONE geometry that would be suitable for this use case?

>you just design your fucking extrusion to be a series of 1 DOF flexures which is literally easy and solves your made up issue.
Then post a design that would prevent warping of an X gantry in a heated chamber. The stock beam is 725mm long, and must accommodate all ambient temperatures from 20C to 70C.

>>2938140
I'm absolutely done discussing semantics or playing your stupid autistic games. So last few pointers:
You have introduced the consumer product requirement at a later point. On top of that I have specifically explained that I was either unBle to follow the discussion or must have missed something and asked questions for clarification, no answer.
>thermal expansion seems like a pain...
Tbis is an anonymous image board in the style of futaba, Sir. There are reasons for why it is that way and why people choose to be here. Fuck back off to reddit if you want to spend, our time producing ad-hominems. At any rate: (You) are nor quoting me here. Not the same guy (me) as you are referencing in other places in your post.
Hence I will not respond to your ill informed and hence false claim 'so now, at this point... you... claim... not mitigate'. Not even the anon who said that can respond to that shit as the whole statement is worthless as long as (You) are confusing at least two people for 1 because (You)r thinking insists on ad hominem.
>ONE geometry
I told you. A flexure for each bolt. 1 DOF. Stiff otherwise. You need a fucking sketch?
Why must I repeat myself?
>ambient
are you talking ambient or chamber temperatures? I have asked and implicitly asking about the fucking 500C oven several times by now.

>>2938140
>The stock beam is 725mm long, and must accommodate all ambient temperatures from 20C to 70C
nah we're talking peek here, so try more like 140c

>>2938142
>You have introduced the consumer product requirement at a later point
well as he says, the original response was to me talking about mitigating thermal expansion in off-the-shelf aluminium extrusions, so it's pretty much implied that it can't be some big custom wire-edm'd flexure

>A flexure for each bolt. 1 DOF. Stiff otherwise
oh, for each bolt, earlier you said it was the entire extrusion that was a flexure
it's probably doable to make some sort of flexure t-nut assembly that you bolt a linear rail to, maybe even doable to ecm one at home for a voron-like diy project. would definitely be bulkier and less stiff than you'd want on the gantry, but for the rails going down the sides of the printer it could be plenty viable. im guessing a 20mm deep aluminium flexure, or maybe a 10mm deep steel flexure, thats 20x50mm or so, bolted in two places to the extrusion and to the rail in one place
picrel

>I have asked and implicitly asking about the fucking 500C oven several times by now
that was answered here >>2938033

>>2938142
>You have introduced the consumer product requirement
It's never been a requirement. In context, any alternative to the current consumer products has to COMPETE with the current consumer products. This is 3D printing, a hobby where bespoke parts are found on nearly, if not every single printer. If custom parts can do the job better, great. But unless it's COMPETITIVE with existing products, it won't actually solve the issue because people won't use it. You know that people can use chunks of steel now, right?

>no answer.
Because the conversation is still up the page. The reply chains are hyperlinked, so you don't even have to scroll up. And everyone probably thought that was rhetorical, since you got the gist. Other Anon wants to explore the requirements for a PEEK-capable printer, and in the course of discussion, I pointed out that distortion from different thermal expansion is an issue (due to the high chamber temperature required for PEEK), which was being discussed when you chimed in with how easy it is to deal with.

>(You) are nor quoting me here.
Correct. As I said:>>2938140
>you entered the reply chain in response to this:
That is, that's what someone else said, and you REPLIED to that. Please try to read more carefully in the future. That may help you discern what people are talking about.

>(You)r thinking insists on ad hominem.
I'm curious. What do you think an ad hominem is such that it has anything to do with this conversation?

>I told you. A flexure for each bolt. 1 DOF.
That's not a geometry, that's a textual abstraction.

>You need a fucking sketch?
That would be nice, since it's supposedly so easy. Pic related is the design to beat.

>are you talking ambient or chamber temperatures?
"Ambient" refers to the conditions surrounding something of interest. An X gantry located within a heated enclosure experiences the ambient temperature of whatever the enclosure is.

>the fucking 500C oven
It's 130C+, as has been mentioned previously.

>>2938151
>we're talking peek here
That example was the dimensions and temperatures of currently-existing RatRig 500mm printers, which experience significant x gantry warping with the stock extrusion.

3x18650 battery holder, with slots for battery contacts and for a BMS at the top. Because the unit will be under shelter but outdoors, I've added the groove to the shadow-line step feature, and the slope on the top, and the holes on the bottom surface, in order to manage water ingress.

The shitty AA battery contacts I bought aren't the best though, the one without the spring is tough to get any clearance with, it means the retaining walls have to be pretty thin.

>>2938185
Good work.

>>2938185
Wait shit, those top screw holes are still prone to ingress, both the lid-clamping holes and the single mounting hole. I should put them all above the drip-edge shadow-line somehow, though it would be doable to make the single mounting hole safe by adding a drip-edge to the through-pillar. Mightn’t even need it if it screws fully against the mounting surface but it’s a good idea to add anyhow.
Also I’ll print the whole thing in PETG.

>>2938210
Depending on how often you need to open the thing up, you could just put a bead of hot melt glue around every seam.

If you want to go really crazy with waterproofing, make a rectangular cup shape and put water in it and let it sit a few days. If any water drips out or you get any in the infill, add another wall layer and repeat. I've found that 4 walls is enough to prevent leakage through the bottom and into the infill with my z18 (using 0.3mm layer height, so that might be part of why it takes more on that machine), and with my K1 SE the default 2 walls is enough to do the same.

>>2938135
>It's not 'he' it is (You), me.
I'm not really following this whole thing but I saw that line and this image jumped into my head

>>2938151
OK since I'm good at coming up with absurd solutions for problems that have usually already been solved, I want to chime in here.

It sounds like the issue being talked about is loss of precision because of thermal expansion in linear rails, and/or the aluminum extrusions they are bolted to, right? Basically if some parts get longer the whole structure changes shape and isn't as precise as a result.

What if instead of trying to accommodate and compensate for thermal expansion, you instead just prevented it from happening in the first place? I'm imagining a smallish hole drilled through the long axis of the linear rail, and you could pump water through it. Same idea for any structural metal component. Basically you just water-cool the whole structure with a pump, distilled water, a radiator and a modest fan.

You might have to get non-standard aluminum extrusions for them to still be strong enough even with a hole drilled down the center, although depending on how large the hole would need to be to get enough flow to pull all the heat out maybe not. Same for the rails. Like I said, perhaps not a practical solution, but maybe an interesting one. At scale you could get custom aluminum extrusions made that wouldn't cost much more than existing ones, since it's basically just swapping the tooling on the extrusion machine. Non extrudable parts might be more expensive.

>>2938097
>>Replace whole assembly
>doesnt it have a normal cartridge?
Well I realized that the heat break tubes are not the same on the new assembly as my qidi, so it looks like I'm going to be replacing just one of the heater blocks instead of swapping the whole thing.

>>2938234
Yeah I suggested so further up. A 4020 extrusion already has such a gallery though other sizes are an option, and by cooling the aluminium more than the linear rail you’re cooling the part that extends more anyhow. But I’d want to use feedback to actually measure the deformation, using load cells on either side of the aluminium to control the temperature of the water or the speed or duty-cycle of the pump.

Is there a way to efficiently model a ramp that spirals down through this cylinder, such that it could be efficiently 3D printed? I know how I would achieve the aesthetic using the Screw modifier but I can't seem to get it into a clean, single mesh object in a way that is both efficient and doesn't lead to fuckery.

>>2938234
>It sounds like the issue being talked about is loss of precision because of thermal expansion in linear rails, and/or the aluminum extrusions they are bolted to, right? Basically if some parts get longer the whole structure changes shape and isn't as precise as a result.
Aluminum (what the structural extrusions the printer is made from) and steel (which the linear rails are made from) expand/shrink different amounts from heat (aluminum about twice as much). Therefore, when you have a steel rail bolted to an aluminum extrusion (common on printers), and it's straight at room temperature, increasing the temperature will cause the aluminum to expand more than the steel, making the assembly bend away from the rail side. On, say, an X gantry, a top-mounted rail causes a low spot in the middle, which can manifest over the course of the first layer as the gantry continues heating up after the mesh bed leveling. The distortion is well-defined and repeatable for a given set of parameters, and it leaves the printer as precise as it was before (unless the distortion causes the motion system to bind somewhere), but it produces inaccuracy.

>>2938266
Depends on the modeling tools you have available. You might sweep a profile along a spiral path. You might loft several suitably-arranged cross sections. You might generate a screw that's about right, then extrude a new object from the spiral surface. You might model a small cuboid, distort that into a single segment of the spiral you want, then stack copies until you have your ramp.

>>2938266
Try this:
>Screw modifier to get the shape you want
>Remesh modifier with whatever voxel size gets you a "good enough" resolution
>Decimate modifier to cut down on the tri count

>>2938251
Huh, you could use an off-the-shelf PID controller that reads the load cell divider output as if it were a thermocouple voltage output, and controls a water pump with PWM. If you did it right, one degree on the display would read one degree of bend on the extrusion!

>>2938277
The problem is when the two or more rails on the side of your printer both bow outwards, causing the gantry to bind as it moves forwards and backwards. The gantry itself can be titanium or have a rail on either side of it, a water loop to a moving gantry sounds like a pain anyhow.
Also unless you have a thermistor on the extrusion itself (or model the thermal resistance and heat capacity network) you don’t know by how much it’s expanded, unless you just wait ages for the heat-soak.
I think there is merit in characterising how printers warp so they can actively compensate for calculated thermal deformations while printing, but I think this is only worth doing with enough temperature sensors to properly characterise the system.

>want to make a hollow 3D print that I can fill with resin or epoxy or something for maximum possible strength
>use Lightning infill to have just enough infill to support the overhangs and no more
>need to remove the top layers in a specific part of the model, to make a hole for pouring the resin in
>use Cura's Modify Settings For Overlaps feature
>if I set it to Infill Mesh, it does nothing for the top layers (predictably)
>if I set it to Cutting Mesh, it removes the top layers from where they were, but it now has new top layers just below the overlap mesh, so I still can't access the interior void
>even if I stretch the overlap mesh all the way down to the bottom surface, it adds new walls outside of it all the way down through the interior of the model
>still does this even with wall thickness, top/bottom thickness, infill density, etc all set to 0

Why is it so hard to just tell the slicer to slice it exactly as it normally would but NOT print anything in a specific area? I don't want new extra walls/top layers/bottom layers, I just want exactly what it would print normally but minus the roof.
It would honestly be easier just to stop the print before it starts printing the top layers, if it wouldn't mean losing the height of those walls as well.

>>2938314
>The problem is when the two or more rails on the side of your printer both bow outwards, causing the gantry to bind as it moves forwards and backwards.
Potentially, yes, but I'm not aware of any printers that use side-mounted rails for a moving gantry. They're usually top- or bottom-mounted so that the rail has a little side -to-side play when assembling so that the rails can be made parallel even if the frame is not.

>>2938346
Oh you’re right. The problem still stands for the Z motion though. Cant have all the rails pointed in the same way if they’re on the front and back of the frame, or alternatively on the left and right. Applies both to flying gantries or bed-Z.

>>2938351
Wait the hevort and ratrig have kinematic mounts for the bed anyhow so the rails can bow independently.

Still one heck of a pain to calibrate the motion offset matrix for varying internal temperatures, but I see now that it’s doable. It’s just a matter of whether that’s worth the hassle compared to the hassle of minimising the warp in the first place. Hmm.

Is a pulse xe a good choice if I want to print cf or fiberglass filled nylon out of the box?

>old original Ender 3
>printing something with embedded magnets
>these magnets are strong enough that they get pulled right out of their cavities and stick to the hotend cover/fan shroud/whatever pic related is called when the nozzle passes over them
It seems to be the only part of my hotend that is magnetic.
Do they make aluminum or brass versions of this? I'm sure I could print one out of PLA, but would it hold up being so close to the heat block?

Hope this is the right place to ask this but when cleaning up a print I want to try the wood filler + acetone combo before the bondo putty just because it requires less PPE. With the acetone can I just use nail polish remover or is it too diluted to effectively thin the wood filler enough to get into the layer lines?

>>2938357
>I'm sure I could print one out of PLA, but would it hold up being so close to the heat block?

I have zero experience with ender's, but if that is a concern, can you print one with PETG or ABS instead? Alternatively, how essential is that part? Can you just totally remove it or does it serve a critical purpose like directing airflow?

Thinking of selling my PLA machine and getting resin instead. So tired of minis not printing right

>>2938239
So another issue I hadn't anticipated is that because the heat break tubes are different lengths, the PTFE tubes inside are different lengths too.

First: I'm assuming that I cannot use the shorter tube in place of the longer one.

Second: I'm assuming that those tubes are in fact made from PTFE (which I believe is just nylon?) and that if I go on ebay and get some PTFE tube of appropriate inner and outer diameters it should work fine.

Third: I'm assuming I DON'T want to use the long one in pic related because it's all chewed up on one end.

Are any of the above incorrect?

>>2938389
Have you tried using tiny nozzles? Like 0.1mm? I don't know if they go any smaller than that but try the smallest you can. And decrease layer height as much as possible, maybe decrease print speed too.

Resin for sure is going to be able to do much higher detail prints any day of the week, but PLA is cheap, clean, and simple to use. Resin is more expensive, gives off fumes that smell bad and probably aren't very good for you, sticky and gets everywhere and you have to rinse the models in high concentration IPA, and requires a bright and uniform UV source to properly cure. But DAMN the resolution is phenomenal and you also don't have the low sheer strength issue between layers like you do with FFF/FDM because each layer is chemically bonded to the next, not just mechanically bonded.

>>2938393
I'm on the smallest nozzle I could find it's a 0.2. Just tired of how weak PLA is. Supports are always breaking and if you make them strong enough they break the minis as you take them off. Lots of random failures. Supports always break past a certain height so you can't print big minis. Resin sounds like it will be better in every way despite being harder to use

>>2938392
>PTFE (which I believe is just nylon?)
What the hell kind of a question is this? PTFE is PTFE, not nylon. The trade name of Teflon. It's a fluoropolymer, not a polyamide.

>>2938338
Orca has a number of top layers setting, or you could do it with modifiers. I don't know about Cura, but if it can't do that then it's probably shit and you should stop using it.

>>2938394
>I'm on the smallest nozzle I could find it's a 0.2.
Not sure what model nozzle your machine takes but if you go on ebay and search "0.1mm printer nozzle" then you will find some.

>>2938394
>Just tired of how weak PLA is. Supports are always breaking and if you make them strong enough they break the minis as you take them off. Lots of random failures. Supports always break past a certain height so you can't print big minis.
I hadn't thought of that, you've got a good point there. You might try different support types, like tree, variable density, etc, etc. (in case you haven't already). The other possibility is to use a dual extruder machine and print the support material in something like PVA that is water soluble. That way you can make the support structure as dense as you want without tearing apart the model when you remove it.

If you feel adventurous you can get a contraption like the mosaic palette that takes multiple colors/types of filament in and cuts and actually splices them together into a single unbroken filament in just the right places so you never have to unload the extruder and re-prime it or even use a purge tower or anything.

That all said, if your main goal is high detail miniatures then resin is probably overall your best bet. The only experience I have with resin printing was in a prototyping lab at college and for the curing process we used a fingernail polish curing device that we hacked to disable it's 30 second timer. (we still set a hard limit of 30 minutes of power on time just in case the thing evenutally overheated and caught fire or something.

>>2938395
>The trade name of Teflon.
dang, yeah your right, that's what I was thinking.

Still, is PTFE the stuff that is used to go through the heatbreak and into the nozzle? I looked up PTFE tube on ebay and the it looks like it's basically sold by the meter and I need 5cm so I'm not sure if I'm looking for the wrong thing or what.

>>2938357
Glue the magnets in using CA glue. Takes less than a minute to set.
Otherwise I’d print a shroud in PETG, or maybe try to print one in PLA but anneal it in boiling water,

>>2938387
>Can you just totally remove it or does it serve a critical purpose like directing airflow?
Both hotend fans are mounted to it.

>>2938352
>Wait the hevort and ratrig have kinematic mounts for the bed anyhow so the rails can bow independently.
Yes. In real-world printers where this is a problem, the typical max deflection is on the order of tenths of a millimeter, which is enough to mess up a layer, but not enough to run out the travel on a kinematic bed.

>>2938400
>Still, is PTFE the stuff that is used to go through the heatbreak and into the nozzle?
In non-"all metal" hotends, yes. It's quite heat-resistant for a plastic, but it does limit the practical hotend temperature.

>I looked up PTFE tube on ebay and the it looks like it's basically sold by the meter
Tubes in general are sold by length. When ordering tube, you need at least material, inner diameter, outer diameter, and length. Sometimes other things like color, surface finish, or heat treatment, but PTFE tube just needs dimensions compatible with your application. And they do come in different dimensions, so check what you need.

To the anon who's self-sourcing a RatRig build to have better parts than stock: What sort of upgrades have you been looking into, and what kind of improvements do you expect to see?

>>2933907
>>2934264
Layer adhesion for HT-PLA fucking sucks.
Also, I just did a large print overnight and it warped and peeled off of the bed like crazy. Gotta figure out what I should have the bed temp set to, and whether I need to use a heated chamber.

The claim that this stuff prints exactly like PLA does not seem to be accurate. It's close, but seems to have some quirks.

>>2938493
>Layer adhesion for HT-PLA fucking sucks.
>warped
I don't remember seeing that in mytechfun's vid but it's been a while, did you at least do a temperature tower? Layer adhesion usually means too cold a nozzle if it's not an inherent property like fucking silk pla, but as it's supposed to anneal while it prints I'm not sure what would cause warping. Cooling too fast or too slow is my guess, part cooling will help you if it is cooling too slow. I hope it's perfectly printable with an open bed printer. At least the fibre-filled stuff should be less warp and creep prone, but I'd guess it to be even worse for layer adhesion.

>>2938499
>I don't remember seeing that in mytechfun's vid
It's on his spreadsheet (the layer adhesion). Pic related
>did you at least do a temperature tower?
yes
>I'm not sure what would cause warping
The warping might be something going on with my printer. I just printed my first large parts with it, which is when the warping started. The bottom layer is pretty bad looking. On the smaller parts it was smooth as glass.

>>2938499
>>2938500
Just did another test print using default PLA settings. I must have fucked with some setting. It is printing good again. Layer adhesion is still terrible, though.

>>2938500
Mind posting a catbox for that?

>This entire shitshow over a guy wanting to print PEEK
Kek. Remember that time that mytechfun bought some 3d printed test pieces and they were shit, so the Vision Miner guys said "they must have fucked it up, we'll send you some *properly* printed parts," and then ghosted him when they realized that it's still shit even when printed on their printers? And then some other guy with access to a $500,000 high temperature industrial printer sent in properly printed parts and they were *still* shit?

PEEK is not a suitable material for 3d printing. If you need PEEK, get it injection molded, but even injection molded PEEK isn't capable of the magical fantasies most people seem to have about its strength.

>>2938507
It's $5 on his patreon
https://www.patreon.com/posts/update-yxpolyer-135048520

>>2938509
Yea, it's a real shame that high strength filaments have such shitty layer adhesion.

>>2938511
If I had that kind of money, I'd be printing things instead of just shitposting.

>>2938509
>PEEK is not a suitable material for 3d printing.
Tell us, O wise Anon, how to determine whether a material is suitable for 3D printing or not.

>If you need PEEK, get it injection molded
>just iterate your part design with a series of $10k molds needing a month of lead time each, bro

>>2938357
I print magnet cavities and slip them in after. Personally I'd just remove the fucking fan cover for magnetized prints.

If I get off my lazy ass and start posting my designs on the off chance someone will give me a few nickles, what's the goto site to do it? it's 1000 random things from gps mounts to lampshades.

>>2938595
>hey guys, I've got a hammer and want to drive this screw into this bit of wood, what do?
>and don't give me any bullshit advice like "buy a drill"
Ok bro, keep us updated on how it goes.

>>2938618
>no, I literally cannot imagine why someone would want to print PEEK

>>2938616
cults

>>2938509
shit in which way? pretty sure there are some fosscad guys using PEEK successfully

>>2938618
>>and don't give me any bullshit advice like "buy a drill"
Drills are for making holes, not driving screws.

How likely is it that we will see some good deals for P1S if/when they officially announce H2S in few weeks?
I'm thinking about getting a new printer and P1S is pretty high on my list atm. I'm just wondering if I should just get one now or wait for possible deals in few weeks.

>>2938500
Ah looks like it’s just generally weaker. Sacrifices had to be made I suppose.

>>2938509
Visionminer do their own strength testing, but it doesn’t seem like they’ve done any proper layer adhesion tensile tests. There are much more expensive printers for PEEK than the 22IDEX, maybe those five better layer adhesion. Otherwise maybe the Visionminer guys use annealing ovens for better adhesion, idk if it warps when doing that but there’s always fibre reinforcement.

>>2938664
>Sacrifices had to be made I suppose.
HTPLA is a variety of PLA+, which means it's PLA that's mixed with other stuff to change its properties somehow. Since PLA is the strongest non-engineering printing plastic by a wide margin, strength is one of the things that PLA+ typically sacrifices by mixing it with other stuff. Though in some applications it's well worth it for improved toughness, ease of annealing, etc.

>annealing ovens for better adhesion
This generally isn't a thing. Annealing involves altering the crystal structure of a material that stays in the solid phase. It doesn't get hot enough to improve layer bonding.

>but there’s always fibre reinforcement.
Fiber reinforcement typically improves strength and stiffness, but it also typically somewhat reduces layer bonding.

>>2938623
If it's for the chemical resistance, you can probably use either PPS or PVDF. What chemicals are you needing resistance from?

If it's for the strength, you're barking up the wrong tree because 3d printed PEEK has no strength regardless of how expensive your machine is.

>>2938664
>There are much more expensive printers for PEEK than the 22IDEX, maybe those five better layer adhesion.
They don't give good enough layer adhesion to make 3d printed PEEK useful. They're probably a lot better than the 22IDEX though, considering that the Visionminer guys bitched out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk2aN3IYlJc
This is with an actual industrial PEEK printer that's certified for printing medical components out of PEEK, by the way. That cert alone probably costs more than Visionminer's revenue for a year.
>Otherwise maybe the Visionminer guys use annealing ovens for better adhesion
That's not what annealing is for.

>>2938612
I believe the fan cover is what the fans mount to.
Can the printhead be run with no fans on it at all?

>>2938689
Yes, but you'll have to go really slow and you might lose a lot of detail with PLA. You could also just set up a box fan next to the printer.

>>2938675
>Fiber reinforcement typically improves strength and stiffness, but it also typically somewhat reduces layer bonding
CF-core filaments are the way to go, I'd like to see more people making them.

>>2938689
>Can the printhead be run with no fans on it at all?
Even if some filaments will be fine without part cooling, you'd die from heat-creep without a main cooling fan, even with a bowden machine.

>>2938726
I want to see people try using fibers other than CF/GF. Aramid or rayon would be interesting.

>>2938733
Aramid is great for abrasion resistance and tensile strength, but buckles badly when under compression. Maybe that doesn’t matter for the short chopped fibres though, be interesting to see. It and rayon are both probably better for getting microscopic fibres lodged in your skin/lungs.

>>2938639
You know nothing yet act as if you do. If you knew your subject you would not make retarded statements.

>>2938782
Crap battery retention on a weak platform whose handle is extra bulk. A round-bodied electric screwdriver fits where that bulky style does not. If buying a screwdriver one that's not got basically an impact driver body is the more versatile option since anyone serious already has drills and impacts.

My bro (we're both tool and equipment nerds and skilled mechanics of several decades who ran USAF flightline and civilian trade school toolrooms) hates his M12 and abandoned it for a Ryobi from a recent set he bought while visiting his father to do the usual popup projects. He offered it to me but if he doesn't want a tool neither do I since a shite one would just waste space.

>>2938800
>Crap battery retention on a weak platform whose handle is extra bulk
the only true thing you said is about the extra bulk. it's crazy how long the smallest m12 will hold a charge. it also has the lowest torque required to slip the clutch of any electric screwdriver (less than 1lbs.) the only downside to it is the bulk
i hear the m12 series isn't as good for serious work (low duty cycles due to overheating) but the screwdriver is best in class

>>2938782
That's probably not something you'd buy to drive a single screw, as in the suggested scenario

>>2938800
>You know nothing yet act as if you do.
I know that screwdrivers are for driving screws, something you apparently were unable to imagine. That seems to be a running theme here.

>>2938822
>as in the suggested scenario
In the suggested scenario you didn't have a screwdriver, you had a hammer. Would you hammer the screw in? It might work to some degree but it's obviously going to give you a very substandard result. If you're going to be a literal autist you should get better at it.

>>2938822

What a tool is officially "for" is not necessarily all it can do and that reasoning is retarded. I'm not sure why you think like a noob.

What is your mechanical and technical background, professional and/or enthusiast?

Tools exist to serve. They can be modified or used for whatever they do well, and a rotating chuck can hold whatever fits well. Rotating a screwdriver bit or extension holding same can be usefully done by any capable motorized tool.

>>2938822
>That's probably not something you'd buy to drive a single screw, as in the suggested scenario

The scenario is a troll since unless one plans on dropping dead on completion of said screw insertion there will be plenty of future screws sooner or later. This happens often with noobtards.

>>2938816
>i hear

How nice. I've examined both I mentioned thoroughly and noted my bro had to tape one battery in another M12 tool in place because battery retention loosened.

To be fair we probably work at levels most don't so heavy artillery all the time except working on computers and appliances suits what we do. We use self-drilling sheet metal screws etc often which benefits from a drill far more than a mere screwdriver.

>>2938844
Yeah I use mine for fairly light use and probably as intended (as a screwdriver)

>>2938080
>need to replace the heating block
how do you figure? also the heating element and block are different things.

also hopefully you're past this unless you're lazier than I am

>>2938822
>tfw just drove to harbor freight to buy a 3rd riveter for just one single rivet
sometimes needs must

>come back home after being abroad
>my 3D printer now runs fucking Klipper
>I explicitly said "No online"
>Try to print something
>PETG, 220 as per manufacturer
>Absolute clusterfuck
>Put it to 240
>Adheres, but now small burns
>Also there seem to be guiding rails out of alignment
Wtf, it worked perfectly fine before
Now I gotta configure it again with a firmware I do not know
Time to get IceSL to work, I guess.

>>2938903
did your mum fiddle with or something?

>>2938903
It burns at 240? Is your PID tuned? Are you using a nozzle with shitty thermal conductivity like solid steel? I find 240 is about right for PETG filament, but I’d do a temperature tower anyhow.

Klipper seems really good once it’s all tuned and working, but it’s definitely more complicated up-front.

What was the printer running before that, some vendor clone of Klipper?

Wait can a nickel plated machine screw undergo galvanic corrosion when it's in contact with a brass threaded insert? I gotta test this.

>>2938953
i dont know, but i DO know that if you fuck up grounding your 24v hotend through a brass insert and a chinesium grade 'stainless' bolt, it can lead to the bolt glowing red hot, melting half your wiring, and making a really neat sound as soon as your hotend tries to heat.

>>2938942
No, my dad did. And he wrote down NOTHING.

>>2938945
Not sure, know it's a brozzle. Maybe the plated copper, may also be the hardened steel. I don't care if it's nice tuned, it was running Marlin before on an old Megatronics RAMPS board. I just don't like it when these things are network attached (nor do I like it if everybody can see what one prints).
Also the Raspberry Pi used to run Klippper thermal throttles.
That PETG filament did say 210-230 °C, so maybe I ran it too hot.
It worked all so well before, back when I still printed with my beloved ABS.

I have been on market for my first printer for sometime now. After some research I have narrowed it down to either Bambu P1S or Qidi Plus 4.
Problem is that it seems really hard to find up to date and non-biased reviews of those printers. I don't care about problems that have been solved ages ago, or some drama about how Bambu is walled garden etc. All I want to know is how those printers are now, and which one should i get.
From what I have managed to gather. P1S is slightly more beginner friendly and has maybe better quality control. But on the other hand Plus 4 has bigger print area, heated enclosure and comes equipped with stuff like hardened head etc.
As a beginner I will probably start with just PLA etc like everyone else, but I would definitely want to start printing more functional parts pretty soon.
So I would like to ask how much does those extra features in Plus 4 really matter in long run, or should I just get P1S and then upgrade it with hardened head etc?
Also is there anything else I might have missed that I should take into consideration when choosing between those two printers?

>>2938992
Klipper printers are only locally hosted, unless you’re using that cloud-based spaghetti detection AI (Obico?). You can block the printer if your router’s firewall so it can only be accessed locally if you want. And then if you want to access it remotely you can set up a VPS.

>>2939018
IIRC the Qidi has an actively heated chamber and can run mainline Klipper, so it seems like a more versatile printer going into the future. I’d see if I could find videos or other reviews detailing how easy it is to repair and replace parts too.

For fibre filaments you also want to upgrade the extruder gears if they aren’t already hardened.

>>2938953
Potentially, but non-passivated nickel supposedly has the same anodic index as typical brass, so it would be very slow if it does occur, outside of extra-corrosive conditions. Note that galvanic corrosion requires the presence of an electrolyte. If your assembly stays dry, it shouldn't be an issue at all.

>>2939082
Yeah I tested it overnight in salt water and nothing happened around the brass threaded insert. Saw a bit of rust colour coming out of the nickel-plated nut, but that implies the nickel coating was worn off there. Then I added some vinegar, and the zinc-plated screw with the nickel-plated nut started corroding because that nut was emitting bubbles. Still nothing to the brass nut on the nickel screw though. I'll leave it for a few more hours, but it's in a far more corrosive environment than it will ever be. It's for an outdoor battery enclosure, worst case it gets some slightly acidic rain.

I was reading conflicting information online about whether nickel would corrode yellow brass, but it seems it will be fine.

>>2939046
Yeah, I'm re-configuring it to work only on my private subnet. Also turns out the Raspberry Pi that it was running on was overheating and thus thermal throttling (starts at 60C unless you change that in software), so I'm going to reinstall Klipper onto another SBC which will be used to print.

Which is preferable anyways, since the other SBC has a M.2 slot. There may have been printing issues due to thermal throttling of the Raspberry Pi, at least Klipper said so.

>>2939165
I got it worked out. 240C too high, 220 (as per manufacturer) too low, 230 works - tried 225 but had some issues with extrusion, possibly still too viscous enough in the nozzle...

i cant wait for the bambu meme to end its such a shitty time period

the snapmaker with the toolchanger looks ok, but without a heated chamber and with that open lid it seems like it's still just a pla/petg/tpu machine
tpu is good though

>>2939367
Better get used to it. This is the Chinese century

>>2939367
>>2939430
all consumer printers besides prusa are chinese too, and prusa haven't been relevant for the last decade already
i call that the "ender 3" decade
now that we're in the bambu timeline, everyone has had to catch up and compete as far as pla machines go, now we're headed down the toolchanger divergence line, which will surely make engineering filament printing better and better
i call it the "voron clone" decade

whats a good cheap ABS 1.75? just bought the centauri carbon meme.

>>2939432
>prusa haven't been relevant for the last decade already
>now we're headed down the toolchanger divergence line
>because Prusa released an open-source toolchanger design that works

>>2939564
They're extremely influential in what printers are in the market, less so with the voron clones, but they're not relevant as far as most consumers are concerned when choosing what printer to buy. Reliable open-source toolchangers have been around since before the XL, the XL was just the first off-the-shelf printer of any repute that came with one, and even then it was a bumpy start.

People have been buying chinese printers for ten years, they'll be buying them into the future as well. Bambu took Prusa's place as a trend setter with the just-werks voron clone, then tried and failed to set a trend of dual nozzle printers with lasers and vinyl cutters.

>>2939571
>then tried and failed to set a trend of dual nozzle printers with lasers and vinyl cutters.
Probably because the laser and cutter are poor gimmicks at best, msrp should be literally 1/2 (1500 bare 2000 loaded), and their little rugpull stunt pissed off most of the enthusiast community who realistically are the majority of the market who would 1) want a machine with these features and 2) would actually put up the coin to buy one. It's a shame because if they led with the feature people ACTUALLY wanted (larger volume), priced it sanely and added the dual nozzle as the main feature while making the laser and cutter gimmicks as actual affordable gimmicks, they could have had another winner on their hands. Maybe they'll do a p1 esque version in a year or 2, but we will see.

>>2939472
>ABS
but why tho? regardless avoid hatchbox, their ABS is fucking dogshit.

meanwhile:
>use PLA to prototype
>use PETG for UV safe shit
>use ASA for UV safe shit that is stronger
>thank me later

>>2939579
im going to make and sell the tactical light cap things and the faggots who buy them DEMAND ABS.

I already have a sealed roll of abs as well.

redpill me on ASA.

>>2939577
>the enthusiast community who realistically are the majority of the market who would 1) want a machine with these features and 2) would actually put up the coin to buy one
Actually I've heard the opposite. That the target market for the fully-loaded H2D is the noobs who don't have a workshop and the space for three separate machines, and want something more reliable than an ender 3. Whether they're willing to put up the money for it is another question, even if it is cheaper than those three machines would be individually (which I'm not sure about), is it actually reliable and functional when used as a laser or vinyl cutter?

>>2939579
ABS is cheaper than ASA, but it does warp more and lacks the UV resistance.

>>2939580
>tactical light cap things
You mean some sort of press/snap-fit cover for something like a flashlight? I'd investigate TPU for that, since it won't snap or break and it's very UV and chemical resistant. No heated enclosure or warp worries either. Not sure if it would creep under constant tension though. Polypropylene is also possibly worth a look.

ASA is just like ABS, except it warps less, smells less when printing, costs more, is significantly more UV resistant, and I've never printed either.

ok i printed retraction towers out of petg and it's telling me to use like 4mm/s and 0.4mm of retraction on my direct drive setup
faster or slower retraction results in more stringing
can anyone make sense of this? i do have a very direct filament path so the small distance isn't surprising, but the slow speed is strange
when tuning tpu it told me 1.3mm and 12mm/s, for reference

>>2939582
like these.

>>2939590
Oh if it's held on by elastic or something like that there's no particular need to use a compliant filament, though it will still be much more impact resistant if that's ever a concern. Otherwise, it doesn't really matter what you print those out of, so long as it's either UV resistant or coated with something UV resistant.

woo, ripping 40mm^3/s petg out of my ender 3 with a bmg clone extruder and 0.6mm nozzle and it was only just starting to get discontinuous
but it started to go matte at more than 18mm^3/s, and there were some artefacts above 26mm^3/s, so i'll stick to 18

>>2939571
>Bambu took Prusa's place as a trend setter with the just-werks voron clone
Is any corexy machine a voron clone now?

>>2939630
Yes. You could say "enclosed corexy Klipper 3D printer" and be more correct, but what matters is that Voron popularized corexy printers among those making their own printers. Sure people were making Hypercubes and Ratrigs and modding their Ender 5s when the X1 came out, but I'd say most of the inspiration came from the popularity and reliability of the Voron project. It didn't just prove it was possible to make such a printer, but it proved that it could be made for a price that a significant amount of people would be willing to pay for it.

I want to print a dutch wife. There's lots of wicker basket designs I can copy the weave from, but I'll need to print it in five 1-foot sections. What's the best way to connect the sections together? I'd prefer something that's semi-permanent without glue, I don't want it to unthread or something if I shift in my sleep.

>>2939643
>semi-permanent without glue
You'll have plenty of voids, so why not just tie the segments together?
You could use strips of cloth or, if you want something sturdier, join each pair of parts by molding a bit of thermoplastic around them in a few places where they touch. The latter would be strong, but smooth and uniform.

Why does my 3d printing closet smell funny after trying a ruby nozzle for the first time?

>>2939643
Why would you 3D print something like that? A woven design doesn't suit the process of 3D printing whatsoever. If you crave microplastics in your bed sheets, how about printing a spool of plastic ratan (maybe with periodic locking features) and weaving that? If you can compromise on the design, I'd pick something that suits the process much better. Maybe that means using a porous but strong infill pattern for the whole thing. Or maybe it means adding batteries and a fan or heater or whatever inside. Even ASMR mommy encouragement .mp3 files.

>aur orca-slicer takes over an hour to compile
>aur orca-slicer-bin hasn't got the latest update
ah, now i am the freetard

Still having the same issue as in >>2937682, except now it's happening basically every print. In five 5-hour prints, I've had one nearly-successful one and the rest have clogged within an hour or two.
It might have something to do with the fact that this is the first time in a while I've printed something at a smaller layer height than 0.2mm.
When it happens, even as it continues to try and print, I can get the filament to come out if I push it from behind the extruder with extra force. I might chalk it up to an old, weakened extruder, except that it takes a lot of extra force and the extruder is able to push the filament just fine when the issue isn't happening.

The symptoms sound like heat creep, but I can't find any physical evidence to support that. It still happens after dusting off the heat break (there wasn't much dust or debris on it to begin with) and both hotend fans are operational. When I remove the filament after a clog, it is not thickened anywhere along its length except for the plug from the nozzle at the very end, and the plug is no taller than the heat block.

The nozzle is old, but wouldn't a worn-out nozzle have a wider opening and thus be causing overextrusion, not underextrusion? The fan is old, but if it were spinning too slowly to cool the heat break resulting in heat creep, wouldn't the filament above the heat block actually be thickened?

Pic related on the right is the filament I pulled out of the hotend during one of these clogs. I pulled the one on the left while the printer was extruding normally, as a test. I don't see any difference aside from the plug on the one on the right being slightly taller, though still no taller than the heat block, so it doesn't seem meaningful.

>>2939676
>appimage from github crashes
loonix bros... not like this..

>>2939677
>remove nozzle and shove needle up there to clean it out
>remove bowden coupling for good measure
>bunch of soft oily gunk underneath the coupling
>apparently that's not supposed to be there
>clean it out
>try to remove coupling from bowden tube so I can reseat the tube against the heat block
>coupling refuses to budge and ends up snapping the end of the tube off
>order replacement tube
Hopefully any combination of that was the problem.

>>2939688
if you are already working on the tool heat you might as well change out the part cooling. The default one on these ender 3 style printers really holds them back.

>>2939689
>you might as well change out the part cooling
The fan on the side that blows air over the nozzle?
I could, but my prints so far have been fine aside from this recent issue and I'd like to avoid changing too many things at once and accidentally fucking something else up. I really just want the printer to go back to the way it was working before.

>>2939692
>The fan on the side that blows air over the nozzle?
I mean both. I have had issues with heat creep that were fixed by a change and also the part cooling is by default very very weak. This is the first and simplest mod you can do to your printer to get better print quality and faster speeds.
>I could, but my prints so far have been fine
They could be even better and made faster anon.
>avoid changing too many things at once and accidentally fucking something else up
A mod like this is very very simple. You don't even need to change any parameters except maybe turn the part cooling down a little since it would be a lot stronger than it is right now. All you need to do with a MiniMe 5015 chonky which i can personally recommend is take off the old cooling shroud with the hotend, cut off the old fans and solder the new ones to the wires (takes two minutes), add the fans to the new shroud, slide the hotend into the shroud and mount. It really does make a world of difference. Even if you like printing slow, overhangs will be a lot cleaner and it will also be quieter than the stock fans because proper fans don't run at 4000rpm to push a little air.

Don't do anything you are uncomfortable with but i don't think that you need to be scared of things like this. I don't know why the chinks cheaped out like this. 10-20 bucks more improve the printer by like 20-50% without any tuing or extra effort.

>>2939694
Also if i recall many ender 3 models have their motherboard cooling fan wired to the part cooling fan headers which is incredibly retarded because unlike the part cooling fan, the mainboard cooling one NEEDS to run all the time. At best your stepper drivers overheat and shut off to prevent overheating. At worst your motherboard dies sooner than it should. Also the PSU cover prevents proper airflow to the PSU. Things like these can very easily be fixed but look up if you actually need to do these things and how to.

Is my bed fucked? I haven’t been able to complete a print. It sat on a table for a year unused. Worked fine before.

>>2939706
did ya clean it good? Even a couple of days in an bad environment can make beds unusable.
Give it a good rub and i mean hot water cleaning agent if your choice and a lot of scrubbing.

>>2937619
You tried anon, and the gesture often means something too. Could have made the tiramisu cake yourself though.
>>2937622
Cute.

>>2939677
I've had the same issue >>2937311
After disassembling the head for my machine i've realized that my heatsink fan was brim-filled with dust over the few years i've had it and caused heat creep, killing several 8+ hour long prints at the halfway point randomly due to getting stuck in the heatbreak.
Give the fan a quick vacuum. It might be spinning, but the dust may just block the actual air flow from keeping the radiator cool.

There's barely any prints in this thread.
>peek
Carbon nylon fiber is good nuf

>>2939682
installing ttf-nanum fixed my crashes at least

>>2939688
might as well upgrade to direct-drive while you’re at it

>>2939697
not on my v2, it turns the mobo fan on based off an internal temperature reading

>>2939706
time to start cutting out aluminium foil shims anon, assuming you don’t want to try bending the bed over your knee

Creality hates its consumers. The screen on my k1 keeps falling off. Why? They could have just cut the tempered plastic door so it wont make the screen fall and that would have been simple.

>>2939766
>Carbon
basically asbestos 2.0
whoever started this trend of putting these cancer fibers into filament secretly works for the devil because there no other way to explain this. Simply handling this stuff puts that shit into your skin very often.

whats the go to sub 10 dollar motherboard replacement these days

Robot miku. The back came out terrible though.

>>2939782
>more of this fear mongering bullshit
>never any serious citation

>>2939764
Now that you say that I realize that while I have dusted off the heat break itself, I didn't hit the actual fan with any compressed air.

>>2939774
Can the standard Ender 3 handle direct drive? That's a lot of extra weight for the print head to be slinging around.

>>2939823
I think you'd get much higher quality on this if you printed it in segments and glued it together after the fact. Less supports, more optimal printing orientations, etc.

>>2939831
I think ill give it ball and socket joints

I finally got the parts and got around to putting the extruder assembly back together on my qidi x-pro. what I ended up doing was just replacing the left heat block and running the wires down and all that. Was feeling pretty good about how it came out until I realized that the new heat block has a heating element that is physically much larger than the original, and sticks out further. So far in fact that it actually presses against the cooling shroud fairly hard. You can bend it open, slip a piece of paper in side, let it go, and you have to pull fairly hard to pull it out. Considering the cooling shroud is made of plastic and its jammed up against the heating element, I am a little concerned. Pic related.

Any suggestions, ideas, etc? Is it possible to slide the heating element back a little bit?

>>2939830
>Can the standard Ender 3 handle direct drive?
>That's a lot of extra weight for the print head to be slinging around.
Absolutely, even with a heavy stepper it can handle it. The typical kits come with a new bracket for the gantry that contains four roller wheels instead of three, and this gantry holds the stepper back over the gantry to even out the weight distribution. I just used the existing bracket and printed an additional bracket out of PLA. It’s holding up fine. I found that the V6 heat sink I already owned just mounted straight into my cheap BMG clone without needing an intermediate short PTFE tube (ignoring the internal 3mm tube to take up space) and it’s printing really well now. Because I’ve mounted the extruder sideways, I get good access to the filament path, and the stepper motor is kept to the side. In total it’s maybe $30 in parts.

Battery box is done

>printing is a roll of the dice if they succeed or not
>get used to staring at first layers like a hawk in case it doesn't stick, despite cleaning with iso every print
>finally find out after years that i should have used dish soap to wash the bed
>printing reliability instantly shoots up to 100%

Ok who is the retard who tricked the entire world that iso is good for bed cleaning? Fuck you.

>>2939867
iso wipe before every print, soapy scrub each month or so, or whenever bed adhesion starts to waver
simple as

>>2939867
I iso wipe my bed every several prints and don't have problems and I almost never clean with dish soap. Until I see reproducible experimental evidence about either of these practices I'm going to assume it's all just myth.

>>2939871
i'm guessing it matters how much you touch your bed, how much dust and other oily residue settles on the bed, and how much the bed is scrubbed with iso
a rough paper towel or rag will scrub off more material than a facial tissue, but it also matters how hard you press
pressing too hard could compress your bed springs a bit and cause inconsistent first layers for that reason too
there's just a lot of variables

>>2939830
im not sure that compressed air would do much in the case that i've had where it was a solid dust ring in the propeller, hence why i mentioned the vacuum.

>>2939846
11.1Volts is hard to find.

>>2939899
3x 3.7V cells

>>2939901
Christ i'm a retard, when you posted the render a few threads back for some reason i assumed you were doing 2 cells, squeezing the cell ends onto stripped wire, to cut down on the height, since you mentioned having trouble with the battery contacts not connecting.
i thought you were using 2x 5.505v cells, or it was a version number, hence the snarky comment,

>>2939909
Yeah it's to replace a dying 12V lead acid that's being used to power a light above my dad's barbecue. Solar-powered. The light can run at like 10-30V with an integrated step-down converter so it doesn't really matter what voltage I pick, 3S just seemed sensible, and I've got a handful of 18650s lying about. This lot came from an M12 battery with a dead control PCB.

A short while ago I designed and ordered an MPPT solar charge control board that fits in the enclosure of a shitty 3A PWM charge controller, so it will be good to test that out. It has an adjustable output voltage that I'll set to be 12.6V or so via resistors, I think by default I set it up to output 14.6V for a 4S LiFePO4. I also have a 100Ah 12V LiFePo4 battery lying about with a dead BMS that I've been meaning to mess about with, not sure if I should try to cram it into a different enclosure (one with an actual prismatic cell clamping method), or if it's worth trying to keep the current case intact as I pull out the glued-in internals. Too many projects, not enough time.

>>2939909
Oh as for the contacts not connecting, you can see in my image that the top three contacts are sufficiently recessed that flat-top cells won't make contact, nipple cells are kinda required. If I could have made the front slivers of plastic thinner then it might be fine, but that's just not really feasible for a 3D print. This time I'm fine because I bent the remnant nickel strips around to protrude and make contact, but I'd rather get some better battery contacts anyhow. Like these ones.

Anyhow, next project is this, a minimal enclosure for a little aliexpress DC vacuum pump with a USB socket to give it 5V directly. The best USB socket, of course. For my portable repair setup, such that I can connect it to my T12 desoldering tip. As opposed to what I've been doing up until now, putting the silicone tube in my mouth and sucking the solder into the copper wool compartment.

Day 3 of assembling the Prusa Core One kit... this thing isn't as well designed as I was expecting. It makes heavy use of machine screws going directly into PCCF parts, with no threaded inserts or even pre-cut threads. Machine screws simply aren't meant to be self-tapping screws and their tiny threads make these joints weaker than they could be. Some people in the comments of the assembly instructions have complained about these holes being too loose or too tight, their printer farm machines making these parts don't need to be far off for these holes to be too big or too small.

The bad news: The new PLA filament I added when I ran out of the other was not at all the same color.
The good news: I like how it looks.

>>2939923
That does look pretty sick.

Large format X1C inbound? bambu H2S but they're being sub-saharan about it and teasing it for the 26th.

>>2939917
about 12 years ago my dad got a de-soldering pump as thats when I got into electronics. I never thought it would really do much. A few days ago I finally took it out of the package. It has a spring loaded plunger you press down and then a button you press to release it. You put the tip against or close to a blob of liquid solder and push the button. When you press the plunger back down, out pops a little cylindrical slug of solder. Cant believe I've been not using this thing for so long.

>>2939923
when I got my piece of trash CR10 V1, I managed to print a meme mando helmet using "uv reactive" filament rolls of the same color by same manufacturer. all glowed different colors. shit was dope.

Anyone else prints cute girls full of tree supports? They are like tentacles

>>2939972
Those normal solder suckers work, but the tricky part is getting them on the joint while it's still molten. If you have the work-holding it's often doable to heat up one side of the board with your iron while you put the sucker on the same pad from the other side, but that doesn't work for elcaps or vertical connectors. The next step up from manual solder suckers is an electric desoldering sucker iron like the Yihua 929D-V. I've been using one of those for a year or so now, and it's pretty good. But being an unregulated iron it takes a while to heat up and cool down, and can't actually put that much power into the workpiece. So I bought one of picrel instead. Well it was just the tip without the button or tube or handpiece, but importantly it's a T12 tip that fits in my existing T12 irons. Also the vacuum means I can use it as an SMD pickup tool.

>>2939943
id stay away from the bambu ecosystem until its open sourced

>>2939917
There we are. Portable USB vacuum pump for desoldering. Maybe also for picking up tiny SMD components. I gave it a proper shadow line, which kinda hides the poor fit due to only having fasteners on one end.

whats this look like?

Now I'm working on an improved and more compact portable PSU enclosure over what I made 6 months ago. But it looks like this design doesn't quite have enough room for the USB PD trigger board, and I'm also remembering that the output noise leaves something to be desired so I'm wanting to add some additional capacitance. It's already got 1000uF though, so substantially increasing that capacitance is going to be bulky. Maybe it just needs some low-ESR capacitance with a film cap or two, I'll do some testing.

I've planned a 100W 5S 3000mAh LiFePO4 26650 power-bank with one of those alibay power-bank modules, which will need a model for 3D printing and worst-case scenario will need to suck like 8A out of the cells, which I don't feel very comfortable doing with these battery contacts: >>2939846. But I can test that with my power supply and see how hot they get while I mess about with capacitance.

>>2940113
some sort of stand, maybe an inline filter?
rabbit feeder?

>>2937517
is this TPU? i thought you're not supposed to use that in an AMS

>>2940124
for getting weed into a tiny vape cylinder without making a mess.

>>2940059
Hey anon do you a link to this? I pulled a small pump that I was using to vacuum seal bags but been wanting to use it for smd pickup as well. I would appreciate it!

>>2937515 (OP)
Are there any private trackers for STLs?

>>2940185
telegram groups mostly, if i get you right

>>2940184
Here's a zip with the shitty unrepaired STL, and the solvespace file if you need to change dimensions at all:
https://litter.catbox.moe/yvyg6qesugbknbkg.zip
File expires after 24hrs, catbox isn't working for anons today.
Picrel is the vacuum pump that fits in it, I bought the 3.6 or 3.7V one on aliexpress, it smells funny when you run it at 12V, 3.7V is pretty slow, 5V is just right.

>>2940115
Oh this looks better. Even crammed a spot for a pair of caps under that screw pylon there. Even 100uF makes a difference to the squealing somehow.

>>2940256
Thanks anon, the pump is a 370 and I assumed based on your pic its very similar.

I havent looked at thefiles yet, but I am curious if you are just powering it directly or using mcu? I was wanting or hoping to use a pwm motor controller to adjust the negative pressure limit when vacuum sealing filament bags.

>set gcode flavor to klipper and disable these instructions
>picrel still happens
What gives? It still prints fine.

what is the most exotic filament you have used and what do you think about it?

>>2940391
wax filament for making casts
>what do you think
Who the fuck thought that was a good idea

>>2939835
shamefully self-bumping this.

>tldr the heating cartridge on the left side is touching the plastic cooling shroud, what should I do?

>>2940413
Slide the heating cartridge back a little bit.

Just got this inventor 1 second hand, anything I should know before messing with it? It's my first printer.

>That will be $1730 + tip.

Is there a cheaper way to get a Voron 2.4?

thousands of hours and i have never seen this one before wtf

>>2940420
How? Can they move in there? What do I use to do it without damaging it?

>>2940440
...Sourcing the parts yourself?

>>2940440
print the parts yourself, self source the extrusions and fasteners, buy bulk wire and make your own loom, track down the smaller kits for things like the motors, belts and bearing stacks.
i self sourced my voron 2.4 for around $2000 aud, and wimped out and bought the $1900 formbot kit, then had to replace a LOT of the kit when i realised the fans were all dogshit, the motors were loud as fuck, and the mainboard was a budget option that i paid a premium price for (self sourcing had a BTT kraken, kit had a discontinued octopus v1) and the fasteners were all pretty crunchy going into the provided brass inserts, and they couldn't source a PI so i still had to self source that before the kit would actually work.
honestly wish i could go back and self source the parts i unded up needing to swap out, because the kit ended up costing me around $3000 between motor, pi and mainboard as well as upgrades like a canbus toolhead board.

>>2940364
No MCU, just wires soldered to the USB socket. It uses a normal THT-mount USB B socket with the data pins snipped off and the mounting pins flattened out. It's on all the time, no power switch because it draws like 0.1W and is pretty quiet. Because my pump has both inlet and outlet on the top, the housing won't fit your pump without modification. Solvespace is pretty simple to pick up if you want to modify my file there, else you can just import the STL into a decent CAD package of choice.
Because of how low a current my pump draws, I'd be perfectly happy with a simple emitter follower and potentiometer to adjust motor power instead of an MCU, though if you want some sort of feedback or timing I'm not sure what you'd need to do. A motor drive IC might be fine, or you could use an analogue current sense threshold circuit, but an MCU and a logic level FET would probably be easier at that point.

>>2940381
Do you have spiral move paths for retractions enabled?

>>2940391
I have some exotic filaments like PCTG and POM lying about, I'm too scared to try and print POM and the PCTG is too expensive to open without a good filament drying setup.

>>2940436
2nd hand printers are not recommended for noobs unless they're very reliable. Not sure about an inventor 1, but I wouldn't have high hopes. But if you're up for a learning curve, dive right in and see what you get.

>>2940440
SV08.

how do i best safely turn up the speed on the elegoo centauri carbon?

>>2940469
>Can they move in there?
Yes. They're typically held in place with a screw. Can you post a pic of the heater block?

>>2940486
>I'd be perfectly happy with a simple emitter follower and potentiometer to adjust motor power instead of an MCU, though if you want some sort of feedback or timing I'm not sure what you'd need to do. A motor drive IC might be fine, or you could use an analogue current sense threshold circuit, but an MCU and a logic level FET would probably be easier at that point.

thanks for the info, I doubt myself on alot of things, as far as I was aware I figured pwm controller with a reset-able fuse like pic related would be fine, and I am reusing the air pressure sensor and adding additional stuff like solenoid valve arduino nano for the sensor and oled display for the vacuum pressure.

>>2940476
That sucks, mine must've been a newer kit with an m8p v2 and a cb1 with canbus, went together ok but like you said some of the fasteners were shit, mainly the sliding t nuts where some weren't tapped correctly. The motors aren't silent, but with the doors closed I can't really hear it running, but I don't run it at insane speeds. I wish I had the money for an LDO kit to compare it. Got the printer kit and preprinted parts for probably 900 usd, but things like the touchscreen frame and the canbus toolhead mount were wrong, and my xy tensioners are splitting. I had issues with the toolhead board, it fried itself on startup, probably a faulty cap. Bought another and basically did the same thing to install it as the faulty one and it worked fine. I think a lot of btt shit is hit or miss. I'm just happy the kit resulted in a functioning printer, because it was my first printer and I'd be shit out of luck if anything other than non-essential printed parts were missing or wrong. I have also heard the older formbot kits were pretty abysmal.

Ok evidently my retraction tuning gave me wrong values for this PETG+. Or at least, I was tuning to minimize stringing, not for a consistent surface.

Also looks like I’m warping with a 65C bed and a massive brim, would a 75C bed help?

>>2940549
Forgor

>>2940549
>would a 75C bed help?
Probably. 85-90 is usually recommended for PETG.

>>2940561
Why not always set it to max? 100 c

>>2940562
Because there is an optimal temperature which does better than both hotter and cooler temperatures.

>get replacement bowden tube
>heard good things about capricorn, and it comes with a tube cutter, so why not
>get the tube
>instead of translucent like the default tube, it's completely opaque
How am I supposed to see how far along the filament is in the tube when loading it? That kind of sucks.

>>2940561
Hmm, Orca defaults to 80C. Just tried it on a calibration print and it was gooey on the bed, not sure how it will effect warping but I'd expect it to make stringing worse. The roll itself recommends 70C for the bed but that's not working well. I'm increasingly of the opinion that PETG is a compromise filament that rarely makes sense even ignoring how it prints more poorly, but as I'm making an enclosure for power electronics I don't feel that non-annealed PLA is well suited, and I lack the printer for ABS. No I do not own any Prusament PCCF.

Having an enclosed printer would probably help with warping just as it does for ABS.

>>2940578
Yep. It's rated at a somewhat higher temperature, so consider using a small length inside your heat-break, with the rest being the conventional translucent tubing.

>>2940628
Petg is cheaper than abs though. Here atleast.

If I threw a steel nut into a bag of new activated carbon and it didn't rust after a few days (80 gritted all sides to remove zinc), is that a safe enough bet that its acid free and safe to be left inside a printer enclosure without fear of corroding and damaging shit?

>>2940631
In bulk I believe ABS is the cheapest plastic by a significant margin. But these days a lot of manufacturers are pushing unreasonably cheap PLA and PETG just because of how much they're selling, so maybe the economies of scale for ABS filament just aren't there to the same extent.
ASA is more expensive than ABS but less warp-prone, I have a roll of that but I don't really want to open it until my upgraded filament drier is complete.

>>2940632
If you wash the nut with a solvent like acetone beforehand to get rid of any salts, then I think so yes. I'd also add a splash of distilled water if it doesn't rust after a while, because there are solid acids like citric, along with salts, that won't initiate galvanic corrosion when dry.

>>2940636
Arent soda bottles made out of petg? I must have 5 credits in my body worth of plastic cause i drink that shit every day.

>>2940524
btt stuff IS prone to failure, but im more willing to bet you followed the instructions they published to the letter, and fried the board by plugging the 24v line into the 12v jumper for the fan.
because thats what i did, twice before downloading the updated github push for the ebb sb2209 and noticing the first published one had the fucking pins flipped on the image.
my kit was back in 2021ish? last batch of an older run or something, since it came from the aus warehouse, and was during the great post covid pi shortage.
i binned 99% of the t-nuts that came with my kit, while i was building the frame, literally first few minutes into the build, i had 4 in a row act like they were cross threaded halfway down, swapped them out for hammerlock style ones i had from a previous machine and did a quick jaycar run (paid fucking $30 per pack of 20, bullshit prices) and continued the build.
i'd forgotten about that.
printed parts i got through the PIF, was like $200, and it even came with a spare stealth burner/afterburner, since the kit i bought was VERY vague about which hotend hardware it come with.
xy tensioners splitting is just par for the course, one of those designs that works fine for literal years of testing, but eventually just gives up the ghost, like the wirechains causing the loom to split, or the x/y limit switch boards peeling off the contacts from repeated homings, since the switches aren't attached by anything but the solder pads.
shit dude, i also wore out one of my linear rails because the kit came without lube, and i'd only ever used linear bearings and couldn't figure out how to pack them.
and yeah, the motors were just nonames with the voltage whine, literally unlabeled nemas.

Anyone tried Elegoo filament? Jaycar in Aus/NZ just got a bunch of their filament for fairly low prices, but I can't see it being sold anywhere else besides amazon and a few smaller resellers. Is it rebadged from some other manufacturer?
I'm gonna pick up a roll of their PLA-CF and see what the layer adhesion is like. Might be good for annealing.

>>2940638
>Arent soda bottles made out of petg?
Just PET, not glycol modified (that's what the G stands for). You can buy PET filament but it prints at a higher temperature. I think unmodified PET can be annealed though.

What are you guys printing with your ender 3?
I'm printing some tool organisers for my toolbox.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1627483-gridfinity-stackable-3-8-hex-socket-trays-3x3x4u

>>2940653
See: >>2939846, >>2940059, >>2940341, >>2940553, mostly electronics enclosures. I'm planning on making the housing for a fancy remote-controlled RGBWW light bulb (don't have the filament for that yet), and an electrochemical reactor that uses a solenoid to bash the platinum grid anode down into the dendrites to clear short circuits. I've also got a power-bank module and some 26650 batteries to print a housing for, but I need to buy and measure up some new spring-loaded battery contacts as the ones in my 18650 box shown above can't even handle half the current I need them for. I want to use the 72D TPU I have for its outside at least, though I'm not sure if I'll also need a more rigid internal structure to keep the batteries well aligned and in tension. Then there's also a few other bits and bobs to print out of TPU and PETG to get around to sooner or later. I'm on leave for almost another 2 weeks so I hope to get through my backlog.

My printer can be seen more wholly here: >>2939841. Of all the neat mods I've done, I still haven't put a bed probe on it. Adjusting the knobs to get a good first layer as it starts to print a brim is kinda cathartic, actually. Kinda want to move that silicone brush to the gantry, so I can set it to wipe the nozzle after each layer if I have really shitty stringy filament.

>>2940486
I definitely need do dry the filaments, otherwise it seems to work just fine and for the low low price of completely free, I'm happy with it

>>2940664
Might be worth upgrading to a modern build-plate material like smooth PEI. Those old surfaces can be a bit shit. Is it at least a heated bed?

Dual nozzle printers are neat for printing TPU and a solid plastic at the same time, but in your case it doesn't look like the nozzles can be independently lowered. So long as you can use it with a modern slicer to add a purge block and Z-hops it should be alright.

What do i set this to if i have a ruby nozzle and does it even matter if i calibrate flow the regular way anyways?
>>2940486
>Do you have spiral move paths for retractions enabled?
No just the normal 'move nozzle up' so no slopes or spirals.

I think i have arcs properly disabled now and so far im not seeing any errors in the console i think they are actually gone now.

And >>2940450 was because the actual nozzle diameter as well as the the slicer were set to a different value from what klipper thought it had installed. Really don't know why it needs that info anyways but changing it to the new nozzle fixed it.

>>2940561
>>2940562
Decent rule of thumb is setting bed temp like 5-10C below glass temperature of your filament. 85-90 is a bit too high for normal PETG, that's more of a PCTG temp territory.
>Why not always set it to max? 100 c
Most of the filaments will not solidify enough and you will end up with half-liquid glob sticking to your nozzle and nothing on the bed.

>>2940501
There was in fact a set screw in there under the insulation. I always thought those were press-fit and basically couldnt come out.

Now I have yet ANOTHER minor issue. The nozzles are not quite the same height. I'm thinking I should probably just go ahead and swap the old nozzle on the old heat block with the new nozzle on the second new heat block. That way both will be the same size and have no wear on them.

>>2940727
This was the replacement unit before I removed the left heat block to swap onto my existing assembly

>>2940727
If you can you can also just move the the z endstop up a little so you have all new parts without the nozzle smashing into the bed during homing.

>>2940729
or layer some electrical tape over whatever part comes into contact with the switch to achieve the same effect.

>>2940729
>>2940730
Fortunately the new nozzles are ever so slightly shorter than the originals, so bed crashes aren't an issue. Which is a good thing because i didn't even think to check that before i homed it.

>>2940723
>Decent rule of thumb is setting bed temp like 5-10C below glass temperature of your filament
I’ve seen plenty of people printing with a bed above the glass temperature. PLA is often printed with a 60-65C bed. I suspect the idea is to use glassy filament to prevent stresses warping it off the bed, while the filament just atop it is crystalline because there’s a temperature gradient going up.
Not that any of this explains how you choose a bed temperature for TPU or PP or other plastics already in the glassy domain.

Im having a hellish time trying to print an effing car dashboard thing. I want to throw my piece of shit 3d printer off the window and get a bamboo one.

I replaced the bowden tube and nozzle on my printer and the clogging issue seems to have stopped, but the same filament is now stringing worse than before.
Am I correct in guessing the cause could be a difference in the length/interior diameter of the bowden tube causing the previous retraction settings to not be retracting the filament quite enough now?

>>2940723
>85-90 is a bit too high for normal PETG
Have you checked default settings in slicers?
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/petg_2059

>>2940772
What are your problems? High temp filaments warping as you print them? There's always Prusament PC-CF, if you can find it.

>>2940810
I sanded my printing board thing i think it had some dried glue that wouldn’t come iff. Maybe itll work this time.

It's the beginning of the end for my ancient BCN3D Sigma
I need a new heater block/thermistor/heater cartridge, which I can get third party. But looking on the spare parts they do offer, none of the machine-specific things like the glass bed or control boards are available anymore. I'm one major failure away from being printerless, not a good feeling.

It has been a great printer but it's on life support mode now.

I think I'm too retarded for this hobby one week in I've broke my nozzle and stripped a screw, all I wanted to to was make a funny rubber band gun for my nephew

>>2940824
There are online 3D printing services, unc

>>2940820
>glass bed
Use a magnetic build plate instead, you can get them in a variety of sizes, or even cut them to shape
>control boards
Swap them for quality Klipper mainboards for modern printing convenience

>>2940824
Crazy that this tech still doesnt work like its supposed to by now.
I dont have to tinker with my 2d printer.

>>2940831
The thing would still have limit switch bed height finding and a cantilevered build plate

No, my Sigma will be granted a peaceful retirement, and I will upgrade to something from this decade.

>>2940834
You could fix that first point, but the cantilevered bed is a hard constraint. If it were a modular cube frame like an Ender 5 you'd be able to mount additional rails about it, but not for that sheet metal(?) frame. I wonder why cantilevered beds were so common before the advent of the commercially made voron clone?

If you want, you could use the Sigma as a plotter or other low-force CNC machine. The inkjet mafia doesn't want you to be able to print text documents with a pen, you know.

>>2940824
>I dont have to tinker with my 2d printer.
Because you weren't born between 1440 and 1980. 3D printing is doing amazing, comparatively.

>>2940835
The Sigma has absolutely rock-solid mechanical parts - a custom single-piece sheet metal frame, metal extrusion gantries, linear rails, all-metal hot ends before it was cool (in IDEX even), but the 3D printing technologies included were constrained by the 3D printing era it was released in (2016). The only complaints I have about it are all retroactive after seeing how new printers have progressed, which isn't very fair to the printer.

A pen plotter would be a good post-retirement hobby for it, but I have a CNC router already...assuming the bed still heats after it retires, I could use it as a bread proofer.

>>2940832
>I dont have to tinker with my 2d printer.
yeah instead you troubleshoot software problems for hours

>>2940832
https://youtu.be/DkZIDla1b4A

>>2940832
>I dont have to tinker with my 2d printer.
I cant think of a single time that my inkjet printer has ever worked correctly on the first attempt. The same goes for all 5 models I have used over the past several years.

>>2940868
Get a laser printer. Much more reliable in my experience, especially for intermittent use.

>>2940868
>>2940869

I don't ever use this phrase, but seriously, anyone using a home inkjet printer is simply a cuck, watching their wallet get fucked by Big Printer

>>2940870
Don't remind me. I think it cost me something like $.07 a page. I've been reluctant to buy a new printer because of how trooned all of them are. Even Brother printers are almost as shitty as HP. Who's left? Minolta?

Ok that’s better. Nice and small housing for this adjustable power supply, and now the screws are recessed with the power plugs on the side, so it can be used facing up.

>>2940883
I’m telling you, you’ve got to build a CNC plotter.

>>2940641
I had an updated wiring diagram for the 2209, so if it was my fault it was because I cross pinned it when putting on the faceplate of the stealthburner, but I'm pretty sure it was a faulty cap. My kit came with a stock e3d v6 in it, but I had also upgraded to a dragon hf, so they sent that too. My linear rails aren't the best since they have a bit of inconsistent drag depending on where the carriage is, the mgn12 is a bit stiff after greasing it, but they're good enough. I ended up buying a lifetime supply of ep2 in a tube because I had heard it is good for higher temp use and spent a few hours cleaning the things off when I got them. The motors they sent were moons, no idea wtf that even means beyond a brand of motor, but hey, they've worked so far.

I have been filtered by ASA. I cannot get it to print consistently. I don't know if I have a bad spool of it or what, but it's peeling off from bed temps between 90 and 110, underextruding, overextruding, and generally just being a pain in the fucking ass. ABS prints flawlessly. TPU, aside from stringing is fine. PETG ezpz. But ASA is fucking my anus with no lube. I don't get it.

>>2940886
moons are alright, one of the older "good" brands for motors from before kits became a common thing, since they're entire thing is selling industrial quantities of steppers, so you could actually get them, and they weren't nonames.

Oof, shoulda made room for a brim, the PETG warping even with a 90C bed. It should be functional either way, but it’s definitely irritating. Also I’m definitely still getting little bubbles in my filament so it can’t be dried properly. All in service of the ultimate filament drier.

I'm considering a flashforge ad5x over buying a p1s + ams. I'm not wanting to print nylon (just PLA and CPE HG100), but I'm in the mid-south so even PETG needs dry storage, and I was thinking I could feed the AD5X out of polydryer boxes.

Spare parts support is important to me, as I expect three years of work out of the printer. I also intend to run the printer exclusively over LAN. Should these things steer me in either direction and why?

>>2940820
sigma balls

>>2940903
x1c owner. the main reason is multi-material, the main drawback is hurrdurr the chinese are stealing my dildo stls. seems they changed the AMS or have a new version.

I say flashforge if it multi materials well. on bambu you have to disconnect and single-roll the x1c or p1s to do TPU.

>>2938641
well it's out. bigger bed and a laser option. personally laser-in-printer is the dumbest trend but the bigger bed and newer AMS design are pretty tempting. I wonder if I can get $1500 for my x1c.

>>2940923
>get $1500 for x1c
Not if you live near a micro center, they were just blowing out all the older bambu stuff for 10-15% off. And they offered the ams2 for an extra 100 bucks if you got the package deal. I finally broke and got a p1s.

>>2940935
you underestimate how stupid people are. also the culture here is to list used for more than retail and then get fucking pissed if anybody tries to haggle.

>>2940869
>>2940870
it's insane that a good 2D printer is going to cost as much as my mSLA printer

>Bambu slid an announcement for the upcoming hotend swap system under the H2S launch
>it's not launching (i.e. start taking pre-orders with actual shipment still months away) until December

I think the Snapmaker toolchanger Kickstarter is making them nervous.

>>2940962
I didnt care about bambu because indx is coming but this changes everything. If the h2c still has the 350x350 bed this would be my dream printer. Barring my data being stolen but you gotta make sacrifices somewhere.

>>2940968
Bambu said H2D can be upgraded to H2C, so it's confirmed that H2C has the same bed size as H2D.

https://blog.bambulab.com/h2c-is-on-the-way-heres-how-it-all-started/

>>2940968
>built in chip blah blah
It's DRM. hah

How do i create a wedding topper in CAD?

>>2940789
So it turned out that the issue was just printing at too high of a temperature.
220C was working fine before, but maybe the thermal conductivity of my old nozzle and/or bowden tube was just that shitty. After all, I only started printing that hot to alleviate flow issues, but I chalked it up to the filament being different and simply requiring that temperature.

After replacing the nozzle and tube and everything, that same filament is printing just fine at 200C, with no stringing. Go figure.

>>2940975
Not quite

>>2940868
Epson are great but you have to print weekly or shit dries up. I've had a medium format Canon for 10 years now and sometimes it sits for 6 months. It's also covered in cat drool and cat hair and just keeps chugging.

>>2940832
>>2940824
you can't account for stupid and it isn't 3d printing's fault if you can't thread a bolt or use a screw. buy a damn bambu or flashforge and don't fuck with it you fucking ape handed monkeys.

>>2940985
1. open CAD
2. make a wedding topper
3. ???
4. profit!

protip: I recommend using shapes.

God I hate how every major youtube channel has to review the latest 3D printer
And they do it for free too

>>2940805
Prusa for some reason is recommending higher than usual temps on their help page, if you look at tds of their filament or bambu filament the temp is a bit lower.
My main point was that petg doesn't really need temps that high and a person can safely drop 5-10C from that.

>>2941016
they do it for the views and the companies usually toss them a demo unit for free

>>2941010
no like a flat one like this. not the lego/playmobil looking ones

>>2941037
ifnot free the views pays for itself and they can resell it for cheap

How effective is this at mitigating ooze artifacts?

>>2941017
Is it worth buying prusa anything in this Bambu lab era we live in anymore?

>>2941017
>if you look at tds of their filament
>heatbed temperature 80+-10C (bare textured PEI)

>or bambu filament
>bed temperature 65-75 (using glue)

>a person can safely drop 5-10C from that.
You mean like typical heated bed variation from center to edge (not corner)? Yes, you can use a cooler temp with glue, but that doesn't make it good practice in general

>>2937515 (OP)
Got sick of my phone rattling around the glovebox (factory radio cables came in here so no other options really).
Hopefully Android auto stops disconnecting now.

>>2941132
Hooks over the back of the glovebox. Couldn't find anything like it online so resurrected the Ender 3

>>2941133
>Ender 3
is that petg?
be interesting to see how it lasts in any summer heat
you might be better off using annealed pla if you cant print abs or asa

not exactly working with your layer lines in that model either

>>2941137
honestly anon, it looks like itll work for what it needs to, its going to be almost laying down if im looking at >>2941132 correctly, im sure it'll keep anons phone from rattling.

>>2941137
It is PETG.
The microphone mount that's been in here for 2 years is also PETG so I'm sure it'll be fine.

Wtf is going on with my print and these weird diagonal ridges near corners.
Printer is the P1s. This only happens with orange nylon PA12. I've printed with a lot of different filaments like PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, BLACK NYLON and a lot of PC and this is the first time it has happened.

I've tried printing with the default setting and also very slow, like 60mm/s 300mm/s^2, print speeds and it doesn't make a difference so it shouldn't be ghosting even though it happens near corners.

The ridges don't line up with the Z axis but at a 45° angle.

Again it doesn't seem to happen in any other scenario than orange nylon.

>>2941144
And yes I've also tried with various calibration values from 0.02 to 0.1

Does anyone sell Voron electronics upgrade kits? My Formbot V2.4 flexed a heater wire to failure at roughly 1700 hours, resulting in the insulation burning open over the broken strands. It still kind of works at the moment, but I think I want to gut and rewire it since the rest of the wires are probably not far behind.

Now that it's been a few months, what's the general consensus of the Centauri Carbon? Price-wise it feels unbeatable but iirc there's still the issue of it being super loud and firmware being locked.

Love this lil nigga like you wouldn't believe.

Is it new? Nope. Is it fancy? Lmao. Does it print all the shit I need without complaining and without having to deal with bullshit? Absolutely.

Love this lil nigga like you wouldn't believe.

Is it new? Nope. Is it fancy? Lmao. Does it print all the shit I need without complaining and without having to deal with bullshit? You bet.

>brand new nozzle
>have a couple successful prints
>suddenly one print ends up failing due to the nozzle dragging around a nest of filament
>notice all extruded filament is now coming out in a severe corkscrew, often causing it to curl so hard that it immediately curves back onto the nozzle instead of descending at all
>most likely a partial clog
>cold pull, clean nozzle out with needle, turn up temperature and push a bunch of filament through, etc.
>nothing works
What the fuck do I do? Just throw the nozzle away and replace it?
I don't understand how I can shove a 0.4mm diameter needle all the way up into a 0.4mm nozzle with no resistance and STILL have a partial clog in the nozzle.

>>2941224
All I can suggest is taking the nozzle off and roasting it with a gas torch to burn off any plastics.
Or check out the heat-break.

>>2941137
PETG CAN be damaged by heat in a car... in direct sunlight on a hot summer afternoon, or in the engine compartment. So it's generally preferable to use a more heat-resistant material for automotive use. But if anon keeps it out of the sun, in the glove box, it should be fine.

>>2941224
>>2941261
I ended up fixing it by bypassing the extruder and just using pliers to push the filament into the hotend with a ton of force. Eventually something gave way and it started coming out normally.
Though I still don't see how a clog could have been present despite the insertion of a needle which takes up 100% of the volume of the nozzle.

>>2941224
could be a melted bowden tube. I had similar issues and that was my problem.

>>2941288
Tube is brand new, just replaced it.

>orcaslicer.com
>orcaslicer.org
>orcaslicer.us
>orca-slicer.com
>orca-slicerr.com
>orca-slicers.org

>>2940820
Thoughts on the snapmaker J1S?

>>2941326
>github/orcaslicer

Both my CAD software and my 3d printer are having lots of fun today.

for some reason the offset i just set was ignored and so my new ruby nozzle went to snack on my covered glass bed. Doesn't look like the nozzle was damaged but the bed for sure is.

>>2941405
yeah not just the bed got damaged. The toolhead looks like its misaligned or bent. Fuckkk

>>2940832
Should have bought bambulab.

I have this old ass Ender 3, I was upgrading it with random bullshit through years and I'm generally happy with how it works. But then I've checked what's going on in 2025, and apparently people claim that Creality K1C can run at 300mm/s, with 600mm/s being the manufacturer claim. I usually print my stuff on my Ender at around 50mm/s because going faster means getting worse. Are those 300mm/s claims real? Can I actually print six times faster with modern hardware?

>>2941417
As someone who's sold his old-ass ender 3 (first revision, original mainboard) that I had upgraded over the years, yes they are that much better.
Print speed is an obvious one, but the far bigger one is maintenance. 3D printing was very much a hobby at the time because you'd have to get intimitely familiar with your machine, how it works, and how to fix it. Proper print adhesion, having issues when the filament drew too much water from humid air, maintaining the motors, upgrading or flashing various permutations of marlin onto the board.
For any print I'd plan in ~10-20 minutes of setup/troubleshooting if I hadn't printed that day or the day before already.
With the more modern machines (bambulab in my case), there's legitimately 0 minutes of setup. I've never had issues with printbed adhesion (admittedly I print basic as fuck filaments at the moment) and it handles wet PLA so well I don't even bother with a drybox or anything. It's so reliable that I can just start a print as I go to bed or when I'm not home and trust that it'll print just fine without me needing to monitor it or at least the first 2-3 layers.

I can see why purists may dislike that, because it turns 3d printing from a hobby to a tool, but as someone who wanted a tool and had to get it as a hobby to get it to work, I've loved the shift and advantages.

>>2941424
If you have experience in new stuff and you're willing to believe in this 300mm/s, then I'm more than happy to give it a shot. I don't really have any issues with my ender 3 after years of use, it has a different board, autoleveler, a different bed, my first layer always sticks, I'm also used to it to the point where I know what I can and can't do. So my prints tend to come out well on the first try unless something weird happened, but this familarity is also the main thing that keeps me attached to it. Regardless, for 6x speed improvement, it would be stupid not to get out of the comfort zone.

Will probably switch to this K1C soon, thanks.

>>2941425
>Will probably switch to this K1C soon, thanks
Just keep in mind that while I can sign the differences between generations and improvements over time, I have no idea about that specific printer or those specific speed numbers, so probably best if another anon who has one can give their views. I'm just saying that a lot changed since the early ender days and that the order of magnitude for print speeds seems about right.

>>2941424
From my experience printers like the K1C are more reliable up-front than the Ender 3, and definitely more fool-proof, but no easier to work on when something does go wrong, and definitely less modular if you want to modify it.

>>2941425
It’s worth considering other similar printers, such as the cheaper Centauri Carbon and some Qidi units with the actively heated chamber. If you’re only printing PLA, TPU, and maybe PETG if it’s not too cold, you could also go for the K1 SE or the Centauri, they’re as fast but not fully enclosed.

>>2941327
>snapmaker J1S
My thought is, unless you really have a good reason ahead of time to get IDEX, don't bother. The only reason I have the IDEX Sigma is because my boss was selling his on the cheap and I didn't have any printers at all.

I don't care what color my prints are because they all get painted anyway, so I never needed more than one color. I design my own prints to print without supports 99% of the time, so there was no appeal to using a different support material. After a few failed attempts at PVA supports, the second printhead became spare parts.

What the Sigma was great for was higher temp materials - I printed exclusively in ABS and I generally have fewer problems printing ABS on my Sigma than PLA on the Prusa XLs at work.

>>2941538
My reason for wanting an IDEX (or a material changer in general) is doing zero-gap supports to increase quality and yield on complicated overhangs.

>>2941541
this is the most valid reason but multi colors also makes some really cute shit

>>2941541
I can't help much with any advice on supports. I went far out of my way to avoid supports and especially their scars. I prefer to cut a model in half, print it flat down with no supports, then weld and sand the seam smooth before trying to do it with supports. If I needed a higher quantity I would make a silicone mold and resin casts before resorting to mass printing with supports.

My use case was printing one-off models, sanding and finishing and painting them, and selling them. I never printed large numbers of anything.

Which is the same reason I only print with ABS - so much easier to sand than PLA, stronger, takes paint better, can be vapor smoothed, etc.

>>2941538
Wait, that open printer prints ABS well?

>>2941541
Seems to me that a filament multiplexer does that cheaper but with more waste, while a toolchanger makes better use of build area and is even more flexible. The main advantage of the IDEX is being able to print duplicate/mirror items at once for speed, and even then you could just have a toolchanger with a big nozzle and little nozzle being used on the same part to make it come out quicker, assuming slicers can handle that.

>>2941546
Regarding expense, the J1S is roughly 1 kilobuck right now.

>>2941546
>Wait, that open printer prints ABS well?
I put it in an enclosure. For a long time, that enclosure was a cardboard box, but that was enough.

They do (or did) sell a molded plastic cover for it, never got it.

>>2941549
If you never plan on printing three or more materials at once (e.g. support, bulk solid, flexible) then It's probably a pretty good deal. So long as the reviews don't reveal it to be an unreliable hunk of scrap.

Right nozzle was completely clogged so I decided to completely take it apart

>>2941601
Not sure what to do now

>>2941603
Got it out with a soldiering iron

Has anybody tried to send off a full-color textured model for printing on Shapeways in recent years? I did it once years ago and it worked out, I got a full-color resin 3d print of Megaman from Megaman Legends. I'm just concerned about the fact I don't see the texture in the preview. They've completely changed the website since I last used it. I've tried uploading in several different formats (Zipped and unzipped with the PNG texture and converted the texture to JPG) and I keep getting the exact same preview. I want to be sure the texture looks right on their end.

How do you get glue stick to go on evenly? Or is it just supposed to leave little lumps and they'll get scraped off by the nozzle if they're in the way?

>>2941687
I spread a (very) thin layer around the area I'll be using (on a smooth PEI sheet), then (while wearing a nitrile glove), put a bit of water on the sheet, and use a finger to mix it with the glue and spread it around evenly. Heat on the bed to dry.

>>2941425
>switch to this K1C
Don't get K1C in 2025, there are now better printers at similar prices. I mean, they aren't THAT much better and if you are for some weird reason attached to creality a K1C will do just fine, but if you just want to print shit a bambu P1S will cost almost the same but will be completely hassle-free compared to almost hassle-free K1C.

>>2941438
>>2941477
>>2941704
Ye, I mean, no worries. I'll do a proper research before grabbing something, my question was mostly about whether modern printers are genuinely *this* much better. I mean, shit, fundamentally it's the same thing, four stepper motors on a bunch of rails and a melty little thingy, I'm surprised it can go so much faster just from improvements that don't involve any change in fundamental rules of operation. K1C was my baby duck choice, but I can already see some options that are rated far better than that. I'll be careful with my choice once it happens.

>>2941425
With a standard 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, 300mm/s requires 24mm3/s of flow. That's about 10-20% higher than most printers will do out of the box with normal filament despite what their spec sheets might say. I think the Bambu X1/P1 defaults to 20 mm3/s with their own PLA, my SV08 got over 30 with the stuff that came with it but it must have been some sort of rapid PLA because it tops out at 18 with polymaker. Linear velocity isn't really the absolute measure of speed though, since you need either long straight lines or high accelerations to reach maximum speed. Any CoreXY printer will BTFO any Cartesian in acceleration. I think the SV08 is advertised as having 20k acceleration, but mine is running at an input shaper recommended 8k/14k. I'm not aware of any manufacturer that claims over 5k acceleration for a Cartesian printer, and even that would probably just be a bullshit marketing number.

Anyone have experience with metal 3DP? I have a few models that would require impossible subtractive machine work. I can't find any commercially available metal printers for less than 100k and I'm sure quoting the parts to a vendor would be pricey of course but I'm not sure how much I should expect to pay for ~3 in^3

>>2941774
Just dump your STL into JLC and see what they quote you, IIRC it was like $8 minimum for a single small item, not sure how large you have to go before it gets above that, but I wouldn't expect 3 cubic inches to be more than $20. Is it not a part you can bolt/weld/pin together from two or three individually machined parts to get those impossible features? Note that laser-based 3D printed metal isn't as strong as a cast or milled part would be, electron-based comes closer but that's even more expensive. Might be worth considering high-grade engineering plastics, or casting a part out of epoxy-carbon with a mould you can melt/dissolve out of the inaccessible voids.

I participated in the Bambu H2S giveaway on twitter and I feel dirty, but I could use a free new printer with those specs..

>>2941539
No one replied to you, but I wanted to tell you good job.

>>2941539
nice gif

What's with all the hype over brick layers when alternate extra wall does essentially the same thing and has been fully implemented for ages?

>>2941908
>when alternate extra wall does essentially the same thing
It doesn't do the same thing at all. Alternate extra wall adds an extra perimeter on alternate layers, which helps bond infill to the perimeters by sandwiching the ends of infill between these extra perimeters. Brick layers alternate the Z level of alternate perimeter layer so that they bond to each other better, with smaller gaps and bond surfaces that are not a flat plane.

>>2941739
>Any CoreXY printer will BTFO any Cartesian in acceleration.
>a Hypercube Evolution from 2017 will BTFO a CroXY from 2025

>I'm not aware of any manufacturer that claims over 5k acceleration for a Cartesian printer
Bambu's Cartesians run at 10k.

>reach for a couple boxes of magnets I have stashed on the side of my printer, between it and the wall
>barely bump the power switch with my hand
>printer turns off mid-print
>there's a "resume print" functionality, but it's shit because the power loss causes the stepper motors to relax, and the Ender doesn't account for this, so the nozzle ends up like half a millimeter below where it was and drags across the print
>instead, cancel the print and slice a new gcode that starts where the previous print left off
>this works
>print finishes
>realize that I put the pause for the magnet insertion at the wrong layer because I put it in when I still had a skirt enabled and when I removed it, it reduced the layer count by like 100
>whole print ends up going in the trash because the layers are bonded so tightly I can't split them apart without destroying the piece
I guess the lesson is "don't put your hand near the power switch."

Another day, another electronics enclosure. This one will house a microcontroller, a 5110 display, and some sensors inside and out. I want to do temperature and humidity datalogging the right way.

Really tempted by this build. Already have corexy for harder prints but print quality is just ok, maintance is hard and steep overhangs are no go due to bad cooling

>>2942015
Did you CPAP mod your corexy?

>>2942017
I could add it, there is mod replacing chamber fans for much stronger ones. I think it's just bedlinger nostalgia. Right now Im printing ergonomic keyboard parts and everything looks and works ok, maybe overhangs under supports could be better. I might just buy roll of ASA, start printing parts, maybe stinger will be my side project for autumn, winter, like separate box with electronic and it's years from my last build.

I heard bedslingers have less VFAs

Ended up buying an Ender 6 for $100 because the owner didn't want to spend the time to figure it out.

I have a Bambu A1 currently, but I don't know the real printer maintenance type stuff. How much did I fuck up?

>>2942154
They're stupid big for their build volume, use V-rollers, and have a cantilevered bed, but if you're up for a bit of a project you could turn it into a pretty respectable machine. As-is they're mediocre, but for $100 it's definitely better than an ender 3.

another bracket, will be done printing late tonight, this one is to replace and improve upon a broken plastic part on my old drawing board
it holds a pulley for the vertical slide's counterweight, as well as supporting the base of the vertical arm with a roller to keep the arm parallel to the board

>>2942154
for $100 I dont' see how you can go wrong. the A1 is plug and play but plenty of complete freaking retards have been figuring out "normal" printers for years.

>>2942009
do you mean raft?

also
>has 3d printer
>hasn't made a switch protection cover
baka

I have not touched 3d printing since it's inception until just recently. I got an ender 3 v1 (from what i can discern) for free from some mother who claims her kid got it free from her school when they upgraded to something else. she had no idea of the condition of it so i decided to delve in finally to see if i can get it to work.

brought it a new magnetic bed, leveled it to the best of my ability with the paper method everyone seemed to use. pushed all the old filament that was still in the tube from when they gave it to me and loaded it with some elegoo matte red pla. tried to print benchy to see what was up, first few layers went down fine and then basically:

>extruder gear skipping
>print fucks itself and starts turning into nonsense mush
>looks like it's barely extruding 15 minutes in

i've narrowed down the problem to just the nozzle and the extruder gear. I'm hoping it's just the nozzle that needs actual replacement due to it being old as fuck to begin with, but is there a chance the extruder is also worn to fuck as well? should i replace the extruder too with an all metal setup since it's pretty cheap?

realizing now that it's probably foolish to even chuck more than 50 bucks into this thing to get it working simply because printing has come a long way since this thing was first introduced and i can get a refurb/used newest iteration of this printer for something to the tune of 100 dollars and have significantly less shit to fuck around with. Is it even worth it to go further than a new nozzle with this thing?

>>2942245
No, not really. Obsolescence has a tendency to create waste.

>>2942245
nozzles are cheap as shit the problem is finding them in a less than 20 pack. you know $6 for one or $15 for 20 is a hard choice. a dirty nozzle, specifically overheated burn on carbon, can be taken care of with a cold nylon pull. to invest in nylon over a new nozzle is a questionable choice. a worn nozzle should be visible under magnification. a clogged nozzle (the former) results in angle hair rats nest with very thin strands (underextrude)

not sure if this is your exact extruder but you should be able to observe it slipping if you remove a cover. you could also ensure everything is tight and not sloppy and either add pressure to the lever release when it stalls or stretch the spring to provide extra tension. observed the gear to ensure it's not clogged with stripped off material too (the feed stalls and the gear grinds out a crescent in the filament and is then clogged and slips).

alternatively you could be losing heat in the hot end like a loose wire shifts mid print you hot end cools the filament just stops. taking everything apart and cleaning, checking wires and observing are all free. a 2nd ender 3 for parts might be free too if you look around.

also you can just try it again with a hotter nozzle and see, it might have been a fluke take pictures next time so we can see the fails. sometimes something like a bed shift will destroy a print in a similar way, visual cues are crucial.

>>2942245
FYI matte PLA filament is a pain to print compared to the normal stuff, it’s even worse than silk PLA.

If you take apart your hot-end, it should be pretty easy to see where any remnant filament is, and allow you to inspect the nozzle. If you tell the printer to heat up and just push filament into the top of the hot end manually, that might help.

If you do buy replacement parts, consider hardened steel gears and a hardened-insert copper tip, they’re more expensive but won’t wear even if you want to print something like CF-PLA. I’d also consider upgrading to a BMG clone extruder, I’m using one of those on my ender, though as a direct drive mod: >>2939841.

>>2942255
>>2942265
>>2942288
well it's nice to know i'm not retarded despite being completely new to this.

I needed a toolset for it so i got one that came with 6 replacement nozzles, and i'm gonna steal a spatula to get the failed benchy off the bed after i heat it up. i think everything arrives tonight so we'll see how it goes. I'll likely fuck with the extruder tension first before outright buying a whole new one. Upon my observation i think the extruder skip was because of both the old nozzle + matte pla being a fucking ass to work with as you mention. I have another roll of inland pla i got from microcenter, i just got the matte shit for free so i thought i'd waste that shit first. When i replace the nozzle i'll swap for the easier orange shit and see how it works out.

Thanks anons, nice to have an actual useful general for a change on this website

>>2942288
>matte PLA filament is a pain to print compared to the normal stuff
here's where your wrong. matte is my fucking jam I always buy matte it's the best from bambu and hojor3d maybe you got a bad roll or batch, I mean half my rolls are matte. I agree silk sucks a dick.

>>2942321
>matte is my fucking jam
sounds like the same problem the other anon has, i think it is prone to getting stuck

Newbie here if I calibrate my printer will parts start to fit? Everything is either too big or too small. I've only managed to calibrate my extruder with ellis guide so far

>>2942338
Yes, combined with shrink compensation. It's just that there is an awful lot to calibrate for because there are a lot of things that can be slightly off.

>>2942339
How do I calibrate shrink compensation I don't see that under the ellis guide

>>2942344
I personally use thing:252490 and the step measurement of calipers to determine the dimension the part came out to in both X and Y axis. Measuring a step like this eliminates any "line width" related errors from the measurement.

The appropriate value to use for shrink compensation is (if percent) 100 * Nominal dimension / actual dimension.

Make sure to print the calibration object with settings that are representative of how you're going to print whatever you're actually going to use it for. Ideally, you should also calibrate skew before doing this.

With the release of the Q2 i find myself on quite the impasse, i was gonna originally get a plus4 and the extra 3 cms on 2 axis is a bit tempting, but the Q2 is just a better machine overall, no?

>>2940883
Kyocera. Really just jump the gun and get a used office machine. Consumer printers are just hopeless at this point.

>>2941326
>>2941329
I'm more surprised we haven't seen some autism fueled, rust based, overhyped, alternative slicer yet.

Friendly reminder carbon fiber isn't an engineering material but a simple way to upsell filaments.

>>2942395
carbon fiber makes printed objects stiffer, which makes a big difference to plastics like nylon
it also stabilizes objects against warping during printing or annealing, which makes it substantially easier for people to make dimensionally accurate structural prints
conventional cf reinforcement reduces layer adhesion, but the newer fiber-core filaments seem to avoid that caveat
in short, filaments reinforced with fibers like carbon have a very real niche in the realm of filaments

>>2942245
>>2942255
>>2942265
>>2942288
Back again with an update

It was just the nozzle. Took me a while to scrape up all the fucking matte bullshit off the first run so i could print this but it just finished with zero issues.

Guess i'll start fucking around with other shit now. Thanks again lads

>>2942412
apparently i'm half way to australia whoops

>>2942412
nice find anon, your average ender 3 is basically used 2-3 times then left to rot, but because its a BIG peice of technology people value them and try resell them.
hope you dont fall into the trap of printing some flexi toys then leaving it to rot.

>>2942013
Ah shit, ran out of (wet) PETG with just 4mm to go. At least I can test fit the PCBs and such. Maybe I should just make this out of PLA, it shouldn’t get hot and there shouldn’t be any constant force on it. As for impact resistance, I was thinking of printing some 95A TPU covers for the end-caps anyhow.

But I’ll still need to get some PETG for its chemical resistance for a different project.

>>2942321
I also like matte PLA, never had any problems, maybe later lines and quality problems are more visible but I like matte finish. For example I'm using it for comfort grips for my handheld pc instead of PETG and somehow it doesn't collect oils from my hands

>>2942383
It looks like it, and surprising for them, almost zero early adopters problems. I have Q1 and it looks like Q2 is step up in almost every way. If you don't need build volume I would go for Q2

>>2942412
side note when cool the print should pop off that sheet easily. also don't print PETG on PEI, you can but high chance to fuck shit up. grats

>>2941286
pits and scratches and there can also be voids. in my old delta there was a gap that would get radiant heated to collect filament that wouldn't normally melt. I began pulling the filament any time I wasn't printing again that day.

cold pull can be helpful, you fill the nozzle let it cool completely and then pull manually while bringing it up to temp. it should pull out much lower than the nozzle setting (like 170C) and ideally collect carbonization and other material. nylon is ideal but you can pull with PLA.

other things might be to set a higher nozzle temp (240C instead of 220) or leave the nozzle set at 220 for a few minutes (going after those gap bits out of the actual channel)

regardless good job, fucking with it success is always good

>>2942412
>Guess i'll start fucking around with other shit now
This is printed on my 2018 ender 3, most things updraded but it's still the original frame, motors and v-slot rollers.
They can be made to print well, but starting from scratch in the current printer market, doesn't make as much sense.

>>2942469
It’s a textured sheet, I’m pretty sure that only applies to smooth PEI.

What should I believe?

>>2942544
Do any of them have a cert?

>>2942554
all cheap chinkshit, and i'm guessing the elevated temperatures are messing with them, but i can't find any sensor that reads below 10% anyhow

that's why i'm going to make my own sensor and calibrate it with salts.

>>2940887
Dehydrate it
Preheat the chamber
Cover printer in a towel
Print slower

If I use PETG as a support interface for PLA, do I still need to dry it or does it work better wet?

>>2942454
I've been thinking about it and i do need the build volume... fucking hell.

>>2942586
All filaments need to be dry, mate.

So this is my first time trying multi material printing, is this normal? My flushed material is 4 times as much as what I'm actually using?

>>2942587
im planing 20x20x20 build for my second printer so big printers arent my thing, q4plus after early problems is still good printer, q2 have rails instead of rods but i dont know if it really matters, im printing with q1 with rods just fine (yet i like bumping speed down in slicer, i think print quality suffers on higher speed)

I would still go for q2, build volume is 27x27x25, q4 is 30,5x 30,5x28 so its not much bigger, q1 pro have something like 24x24x24 so its smaller than q4 but q2, not so much

Dont really know if there is another cheap brand with big volume, heater for harder to print materials and good pirce.

I have to print like 2kg of ASA soon on my q1, im expecting to be breeze with heated chamber but who knows, mostly printed pla, petg and lots of TPU, never used heater

>>2942609
did it add literal hours? then yeah it's normal. there are ways to reduce waste, one is some setting where it prints the infill on two layers then walls on two layers. another is to use support filament only at interfaces.

>>2942614
bed sizes are typically expressed in mm not cm. also the difference between 270mm and 305mm is huge when you need to print something that is 300mm. It's basically the line between full sized helmet and piecemeal helmet. For example my 256x256 is big enough to print myself a hat but not a decent brim. For smaller production items you're going to fit more items per print.

Another way to look at it is you're never going to wish you had the smaller bed.

>>2942586
>>2942589
inb4 2025 is the year of the underwater basket printing meme

>>2942544
explain why it matters

>>2942491
i'm sure you'll be the exception

>>2942469
>>2942491
>>2942704
You can actually print PETG on PEI but you have to be very careful with removal.
I've found it works best to heat the bed to 60-70C so that the PETG is slightly soft so that when it detaches it's significantly weaker than the PEI and therefore cannot rip it up.

>>2942702
Because if my filament drier is 40%RH inside while up above 50C, the filament is probably soaking wet. If it’s 20% then it might be ok, but I’d prefer it to be lower, especially when it’s up to temp. If it’s 10% thats probably fine, but that meter doesn’t read lower than 10%, which is why I bought the analog meters that go down to 0%, only for them to never do so.

>>2942701
Immerse your printer and filament in an inert hydrofluorocarbon liquid, or even mineral oil.

>>2942704
>>2942714
Pfft I print PETG on my textured sheet and still have to use a fuckhueg brim to stop it from peeling up at the corners. From what I read, there are different qualities of textured PEI, so I guess I just got a shitty one. The carbon-fibre-textured PET on the other sticks well for PLA and PETG, it’s better than my shitty textured sheet in all filaments I’ve tried it with.

>>2942743
Bro if your PETG doesn't fucking stick to PEI either your PEI is dirty as fuck or something's wrong with it.

>>2942698
exactly my viewpoint on this, i've printed helmets before and anything less than 285x285 is NOT gonna fit a helmet unless you have a small ass head.

>>2942745
well, yeah of course its dirty as fuck, its COVERED in glue stick and painters tape.

I have a P1S currently. I want another printer for mostly miniatures, but maybe some guns stuff too. For my birthday, my parents want to buy me an A1 Mini which comes out at $325 shipped with some upgrades. I can get a P1S with the upgrades for $650. I was going to buy mini with my own money anyway, so we could split the P1S. But I can get TWO A1 Minis for $616 with the upgrades. I only run PLA and PETG. I checked bambu studio and the mini seems to have enough room for most of my miniatures.

Should I get a P1S or 2 A1 minis?

>>2942841
You should surely get a resin printer if you already have a p1s.

>>2942841
>guns stuff
>I only run PLA and PETG
i don't understand

>>2942847
I'm not doing resin.
>>2942849
What? CF isn't necessary.

>>2942849
Lots of people are interested in completely disposable toys dressed up as guns. Pla pro though, petg isn't very common. Idk why anyone would bother with anything less than nylon personally

>unable to connect to mcu
>jiggle canbus cable
>klipper starts and then immediately errors out again
>spend 30 minutes juggling a 350mm printer around to try a fresh cable
>it works
>now spend an additional hour finding fucking jst pins and trying to re crimp the failed cable in a desperate attempt to salvage the already installed cable
>nope.fuckyou
>spend another hour removing the bad cable
It's only been 600 hours. How the fuck can a canbus cable fail that soon?
>btt
oh yeah, that's why.
At least it wasn't the god-damned toolhead board.

>>2942851
>I'm not doing resin.
Well you're going to get very shit minis.

>>2939867
idk what your retard ass is doing, but I've raked up printing time that could fill at multiple months and not a single print has failed for me. it's literally "start print and forget" for me.

what material are you printing with?
but yeah, what the other anons said: keep your print bed clean, filament doesn't stick to fresh or crusty cum stains

>>2942849
he wants to blow his hands off, that's what he's saying

>>2942851
honestly, why would you make your life harder and not get a resin printer for minis? the quality is so much better and printing times are a lot shorter. plus: if you get water-washable resin, which you should, the cleaning process is a lot easier and cheaper than with IPA.
>printtime for one mini: 3h20m
>printtime for a plate full of minis the same hight: 3h20m

>>2942827
What the fuck why

>>2942841
Why would you get another printer when you already have a P1S?

I'm pretty happy with the initial results on the Snapmaker J1S. Though flawed (ex: the lid rattles a lot), it works well, and the snapmaker userbase has found workarounds / hacks to get around its minor flaws.

>>2942743
>the filament is probably soaking wet
I have 40% humidity in my house and my filament is fine. Maybe you should pay attention to how it's printing before you get all bent out of shape about what dial reads which number and stop freaking out about what might be a problem.

>>2942885
print more stuff faster, probably

>>2942871
I've seen some good fdm minis, so I'm not too worried.

>>2942883
Concerned about it being toxic. My health isn't great and I don't want to make it worse.

>>2942938
>Concerned about it being toxic.
if it's really that critical, you might stay away from fdm aswell

3‑D printing emits ultrafine plastic particles and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These arise from melting filament such as PLA and ABS. The particles measure 1–100nm—small enough to reach deep into the respiratory system. EPA confirms these emissions pose potential health risks

https://www.epa.gov/sciencematters/epa-researchers-continue-study-emissions-3d-printers

Inhalation of polycarbonate emissions generated during 3D printing processes affects neuroendocrine function in male rats

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37350301/

Good Read.. Approaches to safe 3D printing: a guide for makerspace users, schools, libraries, and small businesses

https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2024-103/default.html


if you're not concerned about that, resin shouldn't be a problem either. just wear a mask and gloves when handling resin directly

Whats the cheapest filament dryer i can get on amazon that works?

Fresh thread
>>2942969

>>2942970
sex with this thing