Thread 2938735

I have barely completed my first bathroom DIY and it looks like shit from up close. I did not rush on anything, I looked up tutorial videos, I even removed and redid stuff. I genuinely starting to think I'm not meant for this.

What really upsets me the most has to be caulking. For some reason I can't caulk for shit. I even do the tape trick and wet finger trick. It's like once I start caulking everything looks better, but still much worse. I might have to peel off the silicone caulk I just put on the sink because it got all bumpy despite not being dry yet.

Honest to god, how the fuck do you caulk?

Grok.
it even look so unconvincing like you never tried

>>2938736
The picture is unrelated

>>2938735 (OP)
Uh, I have no idea what "tricks" you're referring to. You want to focus on getting a good cut on your tube (look up a video they'll show the right way to do it) and steady pressure, or get an automatic gun. There is absolutely nothing fancy or tricky about caulking. Learn how to do it and you can make fun of the fags who say caulk on a daily basis.

>>2938735 (OP)
The trick is to realize it's actually way simpler than you're imagining it to be.

My first time re-siliconing my bathroom & showers was a nightmare, looked up youtube videos, used those shitty yellow squares people were recommending, etc. It took hours and I was redoing parts.

Did another part of the house years later and I was done in 5 minutes with no hassles, didn't use tape/wet finger/squares/etc, just steady application and then run a clean finger with steady mild pressure across it. You don't need to use a lot.

Cut the tip to the bevel and size you need for the job. Obviously, you'll need a large cut with a few passes and some tooling if you're trying to cover up a 1/2" siding gap. If you're doing base or casing inside, the tube can be cut about as small as you like.

I've had crews that think you need to finger blast every bead. I don't agree at all. The bead should be making good contact to both surfaces under pressure as you squeeze the gun. The back edge of the tip will drag you a smooth bead if you let it. It's going from professional 45 degree perfect beads to 3" wide crackhead thumb jobs that lights my fuse. The surfaces should be clean enough beforehand that this isn't necessary.

Interior stuff chase with a wet sponge or touch mineral spirits for the nasty ones like silicone.

>>2938735 (OP)
Learn the trick where you cut a wedge in the caulking gun tip. Also buy the handheld tool for smoothing. Don't use your fingers and don't use fucking soapy water.

Start off by using the gun properly, then use a silicone profiling tool e.g Fugi (cheap ones are not made of the same material and are more difficult) and use it properly. A 45deg bead from a tool like that won't require a huge amount of skill to get neat and will last longer.

Pros who care about the quality of their work don't use fingers and soap.

This guy talks way too much but has all the necessary info. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg

>>2938735 (OP)
kek picture reminds me of the first time I did baseboards and discovered there's no such thing as a right angle in a bedroom

>>2938768
don't use fucking painter's tape either, I hate seeing retards doing that shit

anyways you're supposed to push the gun not pull it which is why most people fuck up at the very beginning

>>2938746
>>2938763
>>2938774
Thanks guys.

Once the caulk gets fully dry where I can peel it off, I'll try again. Here is my actual shitty caulk work that I need to fix.

>>2938746
>just steady application
ding ding ding

>>2938856
that's gonna be a tough one anon.
how big is that gap under the cocking?

>>2938914
The sink is pretty flush against the wall, it's rounded though, here's a picture. Just finished watching one of the videos and buying some fugis.

Use mineral spirits or acetone so you can tool that crap smooth instead of gunking it everywhere.

>>2938930
Aside from cleaning the counter what else do those things do?

>>2938936
When you tool the caulking, it doesn't stick to your finger or rag as you drag through it.
Seriously practice a few times on some scrap. Sorry it's kicking your ass.

>>2938735 (OP)
Cut the nozzle under a 45 degree angle. Excess material is removd with a wet piece of cloth and index finger. You can also you an old debit card.

I'm sure everyone here has their own ways, but I've siliconed a few thousand showers and trained people who've never done it. My 2 cents
>type of silicone
Use RTV for interior, not caulking per se, silicone is easier.
>Tip
cut the tip at 45 degrees, not too big, maybe 1/4 inch width at the largest point. Once you've done this, cut the sharpest end off, just 1/16th, it let's air out as you pull a bead.
>surface
Dry as hell, if it's not solvent reactive, wipe it with acetone. To remove your existing silicone, wait until it's dry and carefully go at it in single determined but precise cut with a utility knife, you should be able to make two cuts (one from each surface plane) and pull the old bead out. Any excess can be removed with a cotton cloth and rubbing action. Non solvent reactive surfaces can be hit with acetone
>application
Working from your shoulder, loose and free, you want to pick your angle and slowly pull the line of silicone without leaving air bubbles under it, you should have a nearly perfect bead just from the pull. Never pull right to a corner, start in a corner, pull to center, release the pressure and go to the other corner and repeat to meet at your other bead. I usually do verticals before horizontals.
>finishing the bead
Typically use of a tool is reserved for very large beads, anything thin shoule just require your finger. If you get any frumpy spots, lick your finger liberally or dip in soapy water and pull over it and a steady angle. If you do use a tool, your initial bead still needs to be very nice. If you get bubbles and its still wet, poke with the tip of a sharp knife and lick your finger to tidy it up. If you wait too long and it has skinned just let it dry and cut it.
>colors
If the area looks good without silicone, consider using something like translucent or clear instead of white, much more forgiving.
>gun
Look up something like picrel dripless, it's my favorite. Electric ones are insanity for interior work, and won't help.

>>2938967
here is what your tip should look like imo.

>>2938967
>Non solvent reactive surfaces can be hit with acetone
Is marble reactive to acetone?

>>2938998
no, but it will kill any sealer in the marble.

>>2938856
Whew buddy

>>2938915
you don't actually have to caulk the countertop, should have just left it alone, but you might try adding some little backsplash element to cover up the shitty job

>>2938998
Isopropyl is much less risky and just as good most of the time

>>2939250
It's a bathroom sink

>>2938915
how we looking boss, i hope you haven't given up.

>>2939385
I tried again with the fugi tools. I think it is a much better attempt. The part behind my faucet is still suffering and makes me feel stupid for installing it before caulking.

I'll see how this all dries, try to touch it up and go from there.

>>2939387
that's better than before for sure.
the faucet is tough lol but youll know for next time, just take your time around it
keep at it anon

>>2939008
>kill any sealer in the marble
What does this mean?
Can I clean a countertop with acetone and then apply caulk?

>>2939387
Good improvement.

Especially, silicone and some exterior caulks do not like to be tooled around. When you run painter's latex caulk, it will lay down easy as can be. It cleans up better too.

Water tries to destroy everything in a house. You got it sealed and that's what matters.

>>2939745
Natural stone is porous, but also can't be coated, stone sealer goes into the pores where water or other contaminants may go and plugs them up. If you hit the surface of stone with acetone, you will bite into the sealer and break it down. You can absolutely silicone over sealed or unsealed stone, but if you wash it with acetone first to remove old silicone, you will take the sealer away too.

In some cases, silicone will stain the stone if not sealed first, eg. Some limestone and basalt. Oil based caulking will almost always stain stone, rtv silicone or mapei brand products are the only ones I'd recommend for natural stone.

>>2938735 (OP)
no one adress the elephant in the room; there really shouldnt be visible silicone or caulk in a bathroom in the first place. do it right and there is no need for it.

You can make up for lack of finesse with technology these days. Get an electric caulking gun.

>>2940006
OP's problem is finesse, not needing assistance squeezing the tube.

>>2939998
Lol what? You literally install top mount sinks with silicone, flexible tub against tile, silicone, backsplash grout beside the countertop, will crack without silicone.

You should be neat about it though.

>>2940032
i did my bathroom and it was clean and good looking. got twice what i paid for the apartment and the girl buying it said the neat bathroom was part of it.
shure, the sink needs to be siliconed in, buy do it under it not visible. all the wall panels are waterproof no need to silicone anything against it, floor is waterproof no need to silicone anything against it. there is a barrier between the wall and flooring thats siliconed but its not visible.
i used to wash my bathroom by just shower it down while i had a shower knowing that nothing there wasnt waterproof.

>>2938970
Thanks for the graphic. I was only mostly sure what you were describing, but this drawing makes it crystal clear.

>>2938735 (OP)
>>2938736
>it looks like shit from up close. I did not rush on anything, I looked up tutorial videos, I even removed and redid stuff. I genuinely starting to think I'm not meant for this.
There's a very real possibility that your house is just fucking crooked, like everything everywhere all at once.
The floors sagging, the walls are 70&120 degree angles, etc.

That counter might be 2 45's, but the wall sure as hell isn't.
It's not always your fault

>>2939387
You need a contractor sponge ideally or a microfiber.

Damp the sponge or cloth. Make a bead of caulking, run your finger over it to smooth it out and make it even, pass it once with the sponge or micro fiber

Do those 3 steps and it will be perfect

>>2938856
Hahahaha that looks like my first caulk job. Good luck on removal; I think I had to get very good with a razor blade to get my caulk off completely.

>>2939773
Thanks

>>2940278
Cutting 2 45s for anything touching a h I use wall is a Rookie mistake. Can't believe it was your.counter top.

Cut like a bigger strip out of it and make it a decorative thing like you meant to do it

>>2940738
the OP's image is AI generated. It's not real.

>>2938735 (OP)
Oh no. I made a mess with my caulk.

Its the worst when my caulk shoots all over the place.

I gotta smear all my caulk in the crevice.