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Thread 2941597

21 posts 6 images /diy/
Anonymous No.2941597 >>2941731 >>2942894
How do i replicate the sheath for this knife but in leather? Sheath's made out of cardboard and is not in very good shape. Keep in mind i don't have any experience with leather. Only cloth.
Is it a complicated project?
Anonymous No.2941600 >>2941604
>buy leather
>cut leather into rough shape
>sew
>rivet
>tidy up outline
>oil leather
Anonymous No.2941604 >>2941655 >>2941732
>>2941600
Is that it? I thought it'd be harder.
Anonymous No.2941655 >>2941657 >>2942082
>>2941604
That's pretty much it. You can wet-form the leather if you want to so it will fit the knife better...
Anonymous No.2941657 >>2941726
>>2941655
Well thanks, i'll be on my way then.
Anonymous No.2941726
>>2941657 based

Why dont we get more threads like this? Its how this board should work 99% of the time.
Anonymous No.2941728
Anonymous No.2941731
>>2941597 (OP)
another idiot that doesn't understand

Do It Yourself.
Anonymous No.2941732 >>2942676
>>2941604
anything you don't understand is always easy.
Anonymous No.2942082 >>2942084 >>2942679
>>2941655
>wet-form the leather
How is this done?
Anonymous No.2942084 >>2942679
>>2942082
Take your item you want to wet form around and cut a block of wood larger than it by a few inches on all sides as a backing plate/block. Take another piece of wood the same size and trace your item onto it and add at least a 1/4" around the item. Cut that out with a scroll saw or something similar. Then you get a piece of leather sopping wet, put your item on the 1st board, drape the wet leather over it, then put your top wood form on and clamp the shit out of any available spot you can. Then you can take a soft radiused tool and form the leather down into any nooks and crannies or make sharper corners if you so wish. Let it dry for a couple days and you will have form fitted leather.
Anonymous No.2942676 >>2942681
>>2941732
>Making precision CNC machine blocks your path
I like your attitude, but saying always isn't honest. Some things really are hard, even with understanding and cash
Anonymous No.2942679 >>2942689
>>2942082
wet leather contracts as it dries. apply this simple concept in a less retard way than >>2942084
Anonymous No.2942681
>>2942676
>Some things really are hard
not for some of us. there is no accounting for the depth of stupidity in the rest of the world.
Anonymous No.2942689 >>2942692
>>2942679
Clamping it in a form while it dries is literally the simplest way of doing it you fucking imbecile...
Anonymous No.2942692 >>2942705
>>2942689
not clamping it is simpler than clamping it if you're working with raw leather but keep thinking I'm the dumb one here.
Anonymous No.2942705 >>2942922
>>2942692
I soaked my leather and then threw it on top of the item I wanted it to conform to and now that it dried it shrunk back up to a wrinkly sheet of leather and didn't take the shape of the thing I wanted it to. Where did I go wrong? It's almost as if I didn't constrain the leather in any way, shape, or form and cause it to shrink around the thing I wanted it to...
Anonymous No.2942894 >>2942895
>>2941597 (OP)
I would recommend cutting the leather with a cheapo 30 degree NT-cutter knife, which is cheap but the best thing for it. They're razor sharp. Most other knives are gimmicky and expensive for leathercraft outside of niche usecases like saddlery. For thread you will want to use a poly bonded thread like vinymo or amann. Other threads are okay but are likely to fray especially linen based threads. Before pricking and stitching you may want to glue up. Poorfags may opt for barge but using a glue like ecostick 1816b is a proper adhesive for leather specifically. Rivets are retarded if you use the proper thread. Prick holes using a pricking iron, there are several styles. You will want to use a saddle stitch for the stitch line which can be done by hand but is better if you have a stitching pony. Your sheath pictured does not include a welt layer but you may wish to design yours with one depending on knife thickness.
Anonymous No.2942895
>>2942894
You could also finish the edge face with edge paint. Make sure it's actual edge paint not "leather paint" or some other bullshit. It's a plasticizer, use something like Fenice or Uniters. However if you're using veg tan as a newfag just burnish it with something like seiwa tokonole. For a glassy finish after the tokonole burnishing use a small bit of beeswax as well between sanding.
Anonymous No.2942922
>>2942705
>It's almost as if I didn't constrain the leather in any way, shape, or form and cause it to shrink around the thing I wanted it to...
This.
You should clamp the leather between the o ject and a (slightly larger) negative form. Plow out a hollow in a wood block for example. It doesn't have to be exact. Before wetting/clamping the leather, cut it somewhat oversized to allow for shrinkage. Cut to exact dimension after it is dry.
Anonymous No.2942942
Weaver Leather Supply on YouTube has some nice tutorials and I don't find their presentation grating like most YouTube videos are.

Also don't forget to add a welt so your knife doesn't cut your stitching and break its own sheath.