Thread 2942969

Last Thread: >>2937515
Wet filament edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#373

>Download freecad and start watching instruction videos.
>Keep missing crucial steps and having to go back.
>Decide to just try on my own for a moment.
>Spend an entire afternoon trying to place a hole in a cylinder.
>Have only one day off per week.

I fucking hate CAD work oh my god. What the fuck is a body, what the fuck is a boolian, what the fuck. Let me make a god damn hole in the cylinder you piece of shit. I could've physically drilled this hole how many fucking times.
YES I'm retarded. YES I need to watch the tutorials more. NO I don't have the god damn time to learn anything properly and FUCK ME no wonder no one knows how to design worth a shit. I'm just screaming impotently into the god damn void trying as hard as I can to focus on this pajeets unintelligible babble, copying his mouse movements, and then not getting the right thing because he's using a previous version of freecad.

If a literaly toddler can't figure it out, it needs to be fixed. Because I don't have the time, actually, to learn properly, have to take bullshit shortcuts that have a 50/50 chance of working and end up with this grim prospect of never being able to make anything worth a damn that's printed.

>>2942980
Never mind I figured it out. We're all fine you guys. It's just a simple tube with an off center hole 3mm wide. We're all gonna make it.

>>2942899
40% is unusable for PETG and TPU. Drying these filaments is a hard requirement if you’re going to have them out of the box for more than a week or so. My TPU eats moisture up in a matter of days. And for me it’s more like 55-65% humidity, worse at night when it cools down since my printer is in an uninsulated garage. My current drier works for TPU, my years old PLA seems resistant to being dried back to life but that will be an experiment once I can get a heated chamber below 5%RH. I just need a repeatable way of measuring it, which I’ve been working on doing with a microcontroller and some other bits.
DHT11s suck ass btw.

>>2942980
Eminently relatable post

>>2942980
Machine designer here. FreeCAD is shit compared to actual commercial CAD. I pay $300 a year for a personal Fusion license because FreeCAD is still _that bad_. You can save yourself a little effort by learning Resilient Modeling, which is a general philosophy of how to make parts that don't shit the bed when you try to modify them, while still keeping the modeling process fast.

Prusa Core One seems kinda jank in some areas but I'm still pleased with it. I have a Prusa Mini+, XL and Core One now but I can't comfortably suggest them to anyone when the chink alternative is so much cheaper.

very rarely do i make detailed statues, It always surprises me what my ender 3 that i havent fully tuned is capable of

>>2942995
I make zero monies from my shit so my fusion license is freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
although I may need to pay for it soon because I find myself wanting to use paid features often enough

Why does every new printer using klipper come with auto flow calibration but klipper itself doesnt have it. Where are the diy options.

>>2942995
>I pay $300 a year for a personal Fusion license because FreeCAD is still _that bad_.
can confirm. it's worth the money to not have to bother trying to learn freecad.
not that fusion doesn't come with it's own ball of retardation. still.

>>2943000
stl?

>>2942980
If you're not interested in making a career out of it and just want the ability to make and print objects out of simple shapes, check out TinkerCAD. It's the MS Paint of CAD software, dead simple. Also free.

>>2943028
You have to create a filament profile for every filament anyways, so you might as well run a flow calibration print as well.

i wanna buy a CREALITY Ender 3 V3
KE or SE version?
i used 3d printers owned by others before, even ones that use knobs and sd cards instead of fancy touch screens, cloud apps and usb ports so i don't mind SE's lack of fanciness.
>>2942995
NTA but i started learning freecad because i want to change my career to manufacturing and stuff and i can use it to make basic models.
I know what a boolean is, what's a body etc.
>>2942980
boolean here is when you add or subtract shapes. you can make a shape one, then shape two, then make it so from shape 1 the shape 2 is subtracted.
shape 1 cylinder
shape 2 smaller cylinder
ctrl click shape 1, then holding it click shape 2
in part menu, click cut (pic related) button
and now you have a hole in your cylinder

My AMS fried itself somehow. It was working fine, and then it just stopped completely. Power seems to run into it but it's not being picked up by the printer. Checked wires, did about as many continuity tests as I could, and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Do I just bite the bullet and get an AMS 2 or go through the warranty process and hope for the best?

>wet filament?
I don think so. Laughs in Filadryer S4.

On annother note, I spent a good two hours doing meshes and trying to shim my frame and x-axis linear rail yesterday.

It got slightly better at first but trying to improve on that proved fruitless and yielded worse results. I feel bummed about not being able to get a better mesh range than 0.168mm across my 377x370 bed. Got to work more on this. My goal is to get a mesh that is +/-0.05mm, so 0.1mm. But Im losing patince fast as I realize I might be chasing unicorns with my current skill level and setup. My floor could be more even, and my frame does twist and bend under it's weight due to uneven loading. I have bought adjustable machine feet, so getting those on is probably a good second step. But before that I shall build a SUAFT 120 filter. It's been enjoyable to huff ASA VOCs but no more.

>>2942944
you could always print one yourself and put silica gel in it, but if you're talking active drying, I have a Creality Space PI and it works really good. The Dry Box 2.0 is cheaper and it probably works just as fine

>>2943038
SE is their cheaper shittier version with v-rollers for its motion system, the KE is better, don’t remember if it’s Klipper or not though. Klipper is much easier for remotely using and adjusting firmware if you want to mod the printer, but modern Enders aren’t that good for modding. I wouldn’t really recommend an Ender over a Centauri Carbon, or an A1 (Mini), or even a Sovol SV08/Zero.

Best PETG filament?

>>2943043
i hear the cereal container thing all the time, is there a particular model thats the best one? whats the cheapest ASA and various nylon filaments on amazon?

>>2943153
I tried it with a non-airtight box, not recommended. Get a clip-top box with a rubber gasket if you do this.
Desiccant at room temperature isn’t going to dry filament, at least not unless you’re waiting months. It will keep filament dry, but that’s no good if you’re wanting to put on a 2 day print in a humid room.

I built a heating element and fan into my box, but being cheap plastic I don’t trust it above 60C or so, if you want to diy a heated dry-box try something metal. Like an ammo box.

>printer constantly fucking up and giving me headaches
>replace old bowden tube and nozzle
>printer just werks
>zero printing problems whatsoever for weeks
>haven't even had to relevel the bed since then
3D printing really does feel like living in the future when you're not having to constantly fuck with the machine.

After looking at how (shitty) the k2 plus is compared to the Q4, i ended up buying the latter, hope i don't regret missing out on the extra space.

>>2943233
>haven't even had to relevel the bed since then

I think the prevalence of level sensors is caused by old printers having buildtak print surfaces attached to the bed, so every print needed to be wrestled from the build plate upsetting its level.

is PET-G a good choice for handguns or should i stay with ABS?

>>2943292
Not really, it’s not that strong. You’d be better off with annealed (CF) PLA.

>>2943290
Sunlu changed its filament formulation at some point in the last year or two, and now all my prints pop off my glass bed with barely any force unless they have a VERY large base.

>>2943316
PLA CF is complete dogshit for mechanically demanding applications

>>2943292
You should spend another 200 hours reading about it before printing anything related to a firearm

>>2943318
Are you sure its not the glass itself? I find glass stops accepting prints after a while and no amount of cleaning with dishsoap or alcohol seems to improve it. I only have a simple size of 2 for this though.

>>2943324
>I find glass stops accepting prints
You misunderstand, my prints adhere to the bed just as well as they always have while it's hot. But when it cools down, they pop off super easily now.
It was a pretty stark change that started immediately after I bought a new batch of filament.

Turns out running the washing machine at the same time as a 3d print trips the AFCI that's guarding the 3d printer's circuit.

>>2943290
Basically, yeah, but nobody does the Voron fly-cut aluminum thing on a mass-produced ready-out-of-box printer because that would make the printer cost dramatically more. The precisely machined platform requires fancy machine leveling like QGL or the independent z-motors of the Trident for the flatness to get trammed in reliably, and meshing out the bed can make a cheaper motion system "tram in" about as well.

I have a prusa mark 3s+ but I want to upgrade it to a 3.5. Aside from a Revo, are there any other good mods to do to it? Linear rails? Better belt tensioners?

>>2943320
Bad at creeping, but for short periods of high force it’s certainly better than any PETG. And when annealed it can handle higher temperatures than ABS. The fibres are mainly there to stop it warping when it’s annealed. You could properly remelt parts in plaster if you wanted good layer adhesion, otherwise choose your print orientation wisely.

>>2943376
Eddy-current scanning probe, auxiliary cooling blower, Klipper if it isn’t already, dual independent Z axis tramming, spaghetti detection camera, the sky’s the limit.
Or get the Core One upgrade kit.

>>2943292
Like for a glock frame? PC, PET-CF (not PETG), PA-CF (nylon), or PPA/PPA-CF if you want it to be at least moderately reliable. The specific brand/formulation is more important than the material type, but you're not going to find a suitable material outside of this list.

>>2943427
is there an equivalent for zytel that isnt $85 a kg? also how many walls on something like a fun is too much? 15? 20?

>>2943432
Despite the brand name, I can’t find any information suggesting that might be coextruded fibre-core filament. Fibre-core makes for significantly better layer adhesion and is nicer on the skin.

>>2943392
The layer adhesion is dogshit which is a huge problem for a handgun frame. PLA pro is the only PLA the gun people use for functional parts

>>2943454
>The layer adhesion is dogshit
Not an issue for all mechanically demanding applications, but yeah I figured that would be a problem for most firearm applications, hence why I suggested remelting or trying to get cf-core PLA. Which nobody makes.

any usable Revo V6 clones yet?
im not paying e3d 80€ for a single fucking coated nozzle

>>2943482
No, I’m thinking of choosing a different nozzle with integrated heat-break for my fancy printer instead. Like the Prusa Nextruder tips, or the Creality Unicorn. I think a Chinese aftermarket parts company has a new one now too.
There’s also whatever INDX will use to consider.

>gf leaves her glasses everywhere all the time
>eventually I end up accidentally crushing them
>glasses FUBAR
>new glasses will take time to arrive
>7 iterations later, temporary glasses are done and functional
I'm actually kinda impressed I was able to print them in the first place, reliably too. The only issue I had was how consistently nasty the interface with the support always end up being.

Dunno if i can FDM this but im going to try

>>2942969 (OP)
Noticed someone had a 3d printed magic the gathering accessory

Asked them about what printer they had

The girl was one of those Etsy 3d printed dragon people

“I don’t know cad so I just print stuff I like from the internet “

Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing

She asks if I have a printer, tell her yeah been printing stuff since about 2009 with stratsys rapid prototypes, been printing my own designs since 2009

Day job is product development as one of the roles as well as sales and technical support for products I’ve overseen the development on…

Lot of my designs are used in the manufacturing industry from my machinist background….


>silence


Oh do you know blender?! I want to do a cosplay blah blah blah explaining later lines to me, how she has to sand the PLA down and prime it to get her iron man suit


> nah I use solidworks, blender isn’t parametric so can’t really use it to design functional stuff it’s more for art and video game design


Oh…. Well you should try printing a dragon! It’s called a print in place and it makes the hinges and you can sell them for like $20!
Anyone else hope this 3d printing TikTok fad dies?


Back in the day forums used to be pretty good for technical help

Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like dry the filament level the bed hurr what are the slicer settings and asking for more and more details because 90% of everything goes over their head

>>2943457
Cf PLA is fucking stupid

Carbon fiber in filament isn’t like epoxy

It’s stranded

It doesn’t actually add strength like epoxy coated carbon fiber cloth

It just prevents warping and shrinkage of nylons or harder to print prone to warp age parts

PLA is easy print

You’re just adding carbon fiber needles and making an unsafe filament for no reason

>>2943427
FMDA recommends PLA+, take your ass back to Etsy your Creality ender 3 owning fag

>>2943516
Interesting. After some adjustments it is perfectly printable except for the extreme seams/blobs. There are parts where the walls are only one perimeter thick and the quality is perfect there but everywhere else its unacceptable levels of artifacts, especially since they would prevent the tubing from properly sealing. I disabled wiping and now we'll see.

>>2943554
Here is a actual picture. I would have never guessed that the one perimeter walls look better than the properly reinforced ones.

>>2943038
>when you add or subtract shapes
or intersect

>>2943039
unplug everything power cycle everything (off-on-off) then replug everything. swap the 6pin wires (iirc that's possible).

if that doesn't work take it apart. there are two longish wires that connect the main board below the tray to the back interface that may have come undone.

also I don't think the ams shows lights or anything unless filament is loaded.

>>2943320
laughs in nylon

>>2943292
my poc friend you need ASA. happy assassination!

>>2943516
you know FDM is full of holes unless you use vase mode and you can't for that shape. also remember it's weak in the planar direction so something like attaching a tube to that will shear it right off. if it's just cosmetic for a mini or something that's fine, otherwise consider thicker walls for better strength or alternate shapes/orientation of printing.

>>2943531
>Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like
have you tried wet filament printing!?

also you could have leveled up by talking about blender you idiot

>>2943589
I know the limitations of FDM and in this case some minimal leaks are fine. I just need it to seal properly against the tubing which it doesn't want to for some reason. I never had such seam issues before.

>>2943531
For some people, life is all about finding a comfortable coffin to slowly die in. These are the kinds of people that fill their house with kitsch.

>>2943532
As I said, it allows you to anneal the PLA without it warping to get its temperature resistance up to 150C.

Where can I find a good guide explaining everything I need to know to choose what kind of motherboard I should get? (I'm retrofitting a z18 with modern electronics so I can use modern slicers and firmware with it)

I've looked around a bit and BigTreeTech seems to have some good options. The issue for me is I don't trust my current understanding of features, options, components, etc to determine if a given board will meet my needs. I'd love to have something that tells me everything I didn't know I didn't know but need to know about 3d printer boards and configuring them.

>>tldr: is there a good "everything you need to know about 3d printer motherboards" resource someone can recommend?

>>2943555
there comes a point were 5 minutes of sanding is preferable to tinkering a week and printing it 50 times

>>2943617
You are not sanding this soft ass filament. Anyways i switched to another one that fits this use case better and it happens that it also has less blobs.

>>2943618
btw these bumps were also internal which is not acceptable.

>>2943618
NTA but I found out that a dremel with a polishing cotton wheel works very well on printed parts.

>>2943585
Tried all of that. Nothing worked. I'm getting replacement parts from Bambu then hoping to flip the fucker.

>>2943618
>You are not sanding this soft ass filament
of course there are other and better methods for these boogers, but i didnt expect a fellow printer to be this braindead.
Card scraper, knife, flush cut side cutter
just to name a few good options

>>2943623
sanding or other post processing doesn't work at all for this part, that's the point. The way it looks on the outside it does on the inside too and there is no way you can fix these angels with tools. Unless you have knives that can crawl like a snake through tight bends that is mr smartass.

Hi /3dpg/! What materials are safe for handling a lot with bare skin?

I'm a digital/semi-trad sculptor learning anatomy. I sculpted a skeleton in blender and had a local service print it so I could use sculpey to add/learn muscles. I improved my skeleton in blender and want to print it again bigger, but since then I've heard some popular filament materials are toxic, even after they're cured. I'm going to be handling this a LOT, maybe even giving copies to kids in my family, so I need it to be safe. Ridges are ok if they're sub-mm, but the higher the resolution the better.

>>2943637
Resin printing you mean? I hear water-washable resins are nicer, but I’m still not sure if they’re particularly nice. You can always spray a food-safe clear-coat on the printed model.

>>2943643
I forgot part of the post: I'm going to order from a place online because the local place shut down i think (they didn't respond to emails at least). So I know material options are available at these 'order a print' places, but idk what's safe or not. I've just read in some threads there's stuff that's very unsafe while printing and people think it's safe once dry, but akshually it's unsafe to handle as well.

I just wanna print with something strong, pretty high-res & safe. It doesn't need to be perfectly smooth though, the coracoid process on that scapula is about as small as the details get.

>>2943637
>popular filaments
Basically all filaments are safe to handle.
>after they're cured
If you're talking resin, as long as the resin is properly cured and the print properly washed there shouldn't be any health risk.
Neither are food safe.

Hey guys I'm gonna try making a robot claw like this guy from scratch and I need a bit of a guide.
>What 3d printer should I be using?
>What type of filament?
>What type of software?

>>2943663
>Basically all filaments are safe to handle.
No you are going to get carbon fibers in your skin then get mesothelioma and die

hi /3dpg/
im getting a non-negligible amount of stringing with some prints ive been doing lately on my bambu p1s (only tried with 1 filament. the filament should be reasonably dry; i put it in my AMS right away and it has dessicant and my hygrometer shows rh ~ 15%. I have printed stuff with this filament before (elegoo black pla+ i think) with no issues. is there a common test i can do to check the root cause? maybe print a specific model with certain settings that can help me investigate?

also, what are some non heatgun/lighter/hair dryer methods to clean up stringing?

>>2943637
FDM the only toxic filament is ASA. Glass and carbon filled nylons are also safe if sealed somehow epoxy coating is good

Resin printing - no resin is truly non-toxic, it slowly poisons you the same way ASA does

All three can be sealed

You can still get resin sickness and asa sickness from fumes though

Asa and resin sickness is forever once you develop a sensitivity it has built up in your system and you will always be sensitive to it

>>2943690
You can print a string test

>>2943615
buy the one you think looks good, learn about what you need it to do, that it doesn't then use that info the buy the one you actually needed.

>>2943615
Some main differences I noticed when browsing a year ago:
>how many stepper driver slots it has
>whether it has swappable stepper drivers of they’re soldered on
>whether it has a slot for a raspberry pi header or compute module
>whether it has an integrated SBC
>how many load MOSFET connectors and sensor connectors it has
>what screen connector(s) it has
>how many amps/watts it can handle total
>whether it can individually address each stepper driver to change its drive current or other specs
>what maximum voltage it supports, and whether it has multiple input rails (e.g. 12V and 24V) for switching different types of loads
>the power rating of any internal DC-DC converters that you might want to run solenoids or SBCs or whatever off
>external connectivity options like wifi and Ethernet and UART/RS232
>internal connectivity options like I2C, USB, and CAN
>whether common upgrades like the BLTouch will click into it without needing to rewire anything
>form-factor, external connector placement, and mounting-holes
For a similar project, I opted for an SKR V1.4, because it was cheaper than the newer SKRs and the minis and still had plenty of stepper slots, and the one or two downsides didn’t really apply to me. I’m not sure what kind of output a mainboard needs to send signals to a mains heated bed, so look into that if you want too.

>>2943588
SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT! so silk pla is out of the question?

>>2943701
>poisons you the same way ASA
Huh?

>>2943531
terrible attitude

>“I don’t know cad so I just print stuff I like from the internet“
What's wrong with this? She found a way to sell junk and make money

>Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing
Did you sit there like a slack jawed yokel or tell her "yeah I know about those things, I've been printing for like a decade"

>hurr ive worked with stratasys industrial shit im so cool and special my parts are used in the industry i love the word industry

This girl just found some new stuff that interested her, and leaned bits and pieces of a much larger area of expertise that was relevant to her. Why would you lecture someone about CAD vs Blender and try flex about parametric modeling (lol). She's building stuff, using creative design tools, having fun, possibly making money. All things to encourage, not put down

As someone who has an eng. degree, has done plenty of work with autocad, solidworks, pro/e (is that even around anymore?), has done FSAE, has done plenty of hand machining, has gotten plenty of crazy shit fabricated from my CAD work you just sound like you're insufferable.

>Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like dry the filament level the bed hurr ... because 90% of everything goes over their head
No its because that advice solves 90% of the problems for 90% of people for 90% of their use cases. Stop being a dickhead; most people learn as they need to. That girl doesn't need probably doesn't need CAD for middling cosplay shit, but one day she'll want to make something practical or a part for some tool or something and maybe she'll seek out more appropriate software. Let people pull verts and have fun, lots of people who start that way could end up as cnc gods

>>2943531
As much as I hate 3d printed slop, its an overall net positive. It creates economies of scale and a good distraction. Those people making $12 per month selling fidget toys and a bunch of landfill orders that never sell help keep filament, machine, spare part prices low. When I started in like 2012 it cost like $40 for a roll of filament and the $6000 machine could barely print it. Now I have 7 machines chewing through $12 rolls of filament all day with hardly any of my involvement. Hope to keep growing. That Dancyn3d guy is pretty inspirational honestly. Has like 250 printers and he prints nothing but pure shit and copyrighted material. Want to get to that level but with stuff people actually need.

>>2943720
250 printers for what? if hes mass producing he could have bought an injection mold. idiot.

>>2943718
> you just sound like you're insufferable
he’s flaunting his not-so-subtly nazi-inspired name, that was already a given

>>2943721
Let's do some math: at $2k per printer, 250 printers is like half a million as a rough estimate. A medium sized injection molding machine costs in the ballpark of $100k, but then you have the molds: depending on size and complexity they range from $10k to $100k and higher. Let's say an average of $20k per mold. This mean that with half a million you can mass produce about 20 items. You can understand how this is a very different industrial use-case compared to a 3D print farm.

>>2943727
you dont have to own the physical machine but if you spent half a freaking million dollars on 3d printers you kight as well lol

>>2943718
How did I flex cad programs?

She said she was interested in maybe one day potentially learning a design program, asked if I used blender at work

I said no it lacks these features


If I wanted to flex on her I’d just be like yeah your entry level Bambu a1 sucks I got myself 5 prusa machines I built up and run in a farm

>>2943726
I’m not a nazi I just think society would be better off with less Jews, nigs, spics and do on. Hitler had some great ideas, and if you enjoy driving a Mazda rx-7 on freeways in the way to the airport where you take a jet plane ride to a shooting competition where you shoot any intermediate caliber rifle in a competition you would agree

Also forgiving 25% of the mortgage for every child a married couples has (excluding Jews) was a very good idea was it not?

>>2943729
There are pros and cons to 3d printing and injection molding. 3d printing shines when it comes to geometry that injection mold cant produce. Injection molds require uniform thickness throughout while 3d printing doesnt. 3d printing is also better at low MOQs and colorways. When you run an injection molding machine you will produce thousands of parts in basically one color. With 3 printing you can produce 5 units of 5 colors and you also don't have to store inventory.

He has 250 printers because he was able to build up to 250 printers. He got into the flexi dragon shit early and sold for cheaper than everyone else and appears to be grinding. Lately it looks like that cash cow is gone and now hes just printing hundreds of slop SKUs and having his wife do tiktok lives where people buy whatever shes filming on the table. I imagine its still making decent money, but that business isnt even possible with injection molding.

>>2943531
>Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing
she mansplained printing to you. feels bad eh?

>>2943670
>>What 3d printer should I be using?
Doesn't matter as long as it prints within tolerance

>What type of filament?
Again, doesn't matter as long as it is fit for purpose. PLA works just fine for a hobby project usually

>What type of software?
This is the most important question. Printing and assembling a relatively simple robot is easy. Even designing one isn't too hard. Making it move etc. is the very hard part. You could write your own software from scratch, ROS is popular and well documented but quite complicated and most likely overkill or you could try Isaac Sim and Isaac Lab which are poorly documented and also complicated.

>>2943764
size matters. any normal size printer should be fine depending on the scale OP wants to build. you can do a lot with a mini but for an arm any standard 10x10 should do.

>>2943670
PLA for prototyping, you can always use another filament for the final version but there is no reason not to prototype with the cheapest easiest filament.
Fusion360 or solidworks for CAD

>>2943701
>ASA is poison
[citation needed]

I'm looking to get the same results I get from ordering prints from PCB way at home.

I have a UniFormation GKtwo and I use Siraya Tech resin.
My prints are sharper than PCBway's but mine are brittle, screws shatter any posts I try to screw in to but my prints have sharper corners and less transparent.

I'm considering another printer (build volume I'm trying to print is 150mm). What can I do to get the same results as them?
I'm happy with parts being darker and matte.

>>2943770
Size isn't a huge concern if you design yourself unless we're talking industrial robot scale.

>>2943772
>Siraya Tech resin
simple as. different resins, different additives, different levels of brittleness. the >>>/tg/3dpg guys are the resin fags but they mostly care about their minis shattering when dropped, not transparency but they still might be better help.

>>2943774
size is a concern when "any printer" includes mini-format beds. it's just a needless trap to avoid getting a mini instead of a standard bed. OP seems like a clueless retard so it bears mentioning.

>>2943775
>OP seems like a clueless retard so it bears mentioning.
You're not wrong

>>2943701
handling ASA does not poison you
>>2943732
go away faggot

>>2943690
Reduce your part cooling fan speed. Assuming youre printing PLA, I first start with 35% did a couple of prints and bump it up until overhang looks good, I normally leave the retraction speed and distance at default.

Just my anecdote YMMV

>>2943509
I broke some sunglasses so I wonder about printing the lens holders flat in TPU, but then I have to minimize the material used and thus maximize the tension so some kind of cone or speculum might be necessary to pop them in instead of tightening the usual glasses frame screws. But too much tension will lead to creep and it's unclear what amount of creep of the tpu frame or the lens even counts as failure.

>>2943806
I printed those glasses in PLA. As I said it took me 7 iterations to reach an acceptable level of functionality, and 3 of those were just to reach the right fit for the lenses. Friction is the just enough to keep the lenses in place for normal use, but you can expect them to pop out if you clean or handle the glasses a bit too much. After all I was trying to stay within acceptable size limits of what originally was a metal frame; if I had a 0,2mm nozzle, which I don't, I probably would have tried to make the frame-lens interface concave, so that there was also a more snap-like kind of fit, instead of just pressing the lens in place until it stays.
>too much tension will lead to creep
Allow me to ackchually on you: yes, tension leads to creep, but when you apply a constant deformation (which is what happens when you make a press fit, i.e. our case) what you get is stress-relaxation, which is the "dual" of creep.