Thread 2942969

Last Thread: >>2937515
Wet filament edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#373

>Download freecad and start watching instruction videos.
>Keep missing crucial steps and having to go back.
>Decide to just try on my own for a moment.
>Spend an entire afternoon trying to place a hole in a cylinder.
>Have only one day off per week.

I fucking hate CAD work oh my god. What the fuck is a body, what the fuck is a boolian, what the fuck. Let me make a god damn hole in the cylinder you piece of shit. I could've physically drilled this hole how many fucking times.
YES I'm retarded. YES I need to watch the tutorials more. NO I don't have the god damn time to learn anything properly and FUCK ME no wonder no one knows how to design worth a shit. I'm just screaming impotently into the god damn void trying as hard as I can to focus on this pajeets unintelligible babble, copying his mouse movements, and then not getting the right thing because he's using a previous version of freecad.

If a literaly toddler can't figure it out, it needs to be fixed. Because I don't have the time, actually, to learn properly, have to take bullshit shortcuts that have a 50/50 chance of working and end up with this grim prospect of never being able to make anything worth a damn that's printed.

>>2942980
Never mind I figured it out. We're all fine you guys. It's just a simple tube with an off center hole 3mm wide. We're all gonna make it.

>>2942899
40% is unusable for PETG and TPU. Drying these filaments is a hard requirement if you’re going to have them out of the box for more than a week or so. My TPU eats moisture up in a matter of days. And for me it’s more like 55-65% humidity, worse at night when it cools down since my printer is in an uninsulated garage. My current drier works for TPU, my years old PLA seems resistant to being dried back to life but that will be an experiment once I can get a heated chamber below 5%RH. I just need a repeatable way of measuring it, which I’ve been working on doing with a microcontroller and some other bits.
DHT11s suck ass btw.

>>2942980
Eminently relatable post

>>2942980
Machine designer here. FreeCAD is shit compared to actual commercial CAD. I pay $300 a year for a personal Fusion license because FreeCAD is still _that bad_. You can save yourself a little effort by learning Resilient Modeling, which is a general philosophy of how to make parts that don't shit the bed when you try to modify them, while still keeping the modeling process fast.

Prusa Core One seems kinda jank in some areas but I'm still pleased with it. I have a Prusa Mini+, XL and Core One now but I can't comfortably suggest them to anyone when the chink alternative is so much cheaper.

very rarely do i make detailed statues, It always surprises me what my ender 3 that i havent fully tuned is capable of

>>2942995
I make zero monies from my shit so my fusion license is freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
although I may need to pay for it soon because I find myself wanting to use paid features often enough

Why does every new printer using klipper come with auto flow calibration but klipper itself doesnt have it. Where are the diy options.

>>2942995
>I pay $300 a year for a personal Fusion license because FreeCAD is still _that bad_.
can confirm. it's worth the money to not have to bother trying to learn freecad.
not that fusion doesn't come with it's own ball of retardation. still.

>>2943000
stl?

>>2942980
If you're not interested in making a career out of it and just want the ability to make and print objects out of simple shapes, check out TinkerCAD. It's the MS Paint of CAD software, dead simple. Also free.

>>2943028
You have to create a filament profile for every filament anyways, so you might as well run a flow calibration print as well.

i wanna buy a CREALITY Ender 3 V3
KE or SE version?
i used 3d printers owned by others before, even ones that use knobs and sd cards instead of fancy touch screens, cloud apps and usb ports so i don't mind SE's lack of fanciness.
>>2942995
NTA but i started learning freecad because i want to change my career to manufacturing and stuff and i can use it to make basic models.
I know what a boolean is, what's a body etc.
>>2942980
boolean here is when you add or subtract shapes. you can make a shape one, then shape two, then make it so from shape 1 the shape 2 is subtracted.
shape 1 cylinder
shape 2 smaller cylinder
ctrl click shape 1, then holding it click shape 2
in part menu, click cut (pic related) button
and now you have a hole in your cylinder

My AMS fried itself somehow. It was working fine, and then it just stopped completely. Power seems to run into it but it's not being picked up by the printer. Checked wires, did about as many continuity tests as I could, and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Do I just bite the bullet and get an AMS 2 or go through the warranty process and hope for the best?

>wet filament?
I don think so. Laughs in Filadryer S4.

On annother note, I spent a good two hours doing meshes and trying to shim my frame and x-axis linear rail yesterday.

It got slightly better at first but trying to improve on that proved fruitless and yielded worse results. I feel bummed about not being able to get a better mesh range than 0.168mm across my 377x370 bed. Got to work more on this. My goal is to get a mesh that is +/-0.05mm, so 0.1mm. But Im losing patince fast as I realize I might be chasing unicorns with my current skill level and setup. My floor could be more even, and my frame does twist and bend under it's weight due to uneven loading. I have bought adjustable machine feet, so getting those on is probably a good second step. But before that I shall build a SUAFT 120 filter. It's been enjoyable to huff ASA VOCs but no more.

>>2942944
you could always print one yourself and put silica gel in it, but if you're talking active drying, I have a Creality Space PI and it works really good. The Dry Box 2.0 is cheaper and it probably works just as fine

>>2943038
SE is their cheaper shittier version with v-rollers for its motion system, the KE is better, don’t remember if it’s Klipper or not though. Klipper is much easier for remotely using and adjusting firmware if you want to mod the printer, but modern Enders aren’t that good for modding. I wouldn’t really recommend an Ender over a Centauri Carbon, or an A1 (Mini), or even a Sovol SV08/Zero.

Best PETG filament?

>>2943043
i hear the cereal container thing all the time, is there a particular model thats the best one? whats the cheapest ASA and various nylon filaments on amazon?

>>2943153
I tried it with a non-airtight box, not recommended. Get a clip-top box with a rubber gasket if you do this.
Desiccant at room temperature isn’t going to dry filament, at least not unless you’re waiting months. It will keep filament dry, but that’s no good if you’re wanting to put on a 2 day print in a humid room.

I built a heating element and fan into my box, but being cheap plastic I don’t trust it above 60C or so, if you want to diy a heated dry-box try something metal. Like an ammo box.

>printer constantly fucking up and giving me headaches
>replace old bowden tube and nozzle
>printer just werks
>zero printing problems whatsoever for weeks
>haven't even had to relevel the bed since then
3D printing really does feel like living in the future when you're not having to constantly fuck with the machine.

After looking at how (shitty) the k2 plus is compared to the Q4, i ended up buying the latter, hope i don't regret missing out on the extra space.

>>2943233
>haven't even had to relevel the bed since then

I think the prevalence of level sensors is caused by old printers having buildtak print surfaces attached to the bed, so every print needed to be wrestled from the build plate upsetting its level.

is PET-G a good choice for handguns or should i stay with ABS?

>>2943292
Not really, it’s not that strong. You’d be better off with annealed (CF) PLA.

>>2943290
Sunlu changed its filament formulation at some point in the last year or two, and now all my prints pop off my glass bed with barely any force unless they have a VERY large base.

>>2943316
PLA CF is complete dogshit for mechanically demanding applications

>>2943292
You should spend another 200 hours reading about it before printing anything related to a firearm

>>2943318
Are you sure its not the glass itself? I find glass stops accepting prints after a while and no amount of cleaning with dishsoap or alcohol seems to improve it. I only have a simple size of 2 for this though.

>>2943324
>I find glass stops accepting prints
You misunderstand, my prints adhere to the bed just as well as they always have while it's hot. But when it cools down, they pop off super easily now.
It was a pretty stark change that started immediately after I bought a new batch of filament.

Turns out running the washing machine at the same time as a 3d print trips the AFCI that's guarding the 3d printer's circuit.

>>2943290
Basically, yeah, but nobody does the Voron fly-cut aluminum thing on a mass-produced ready-out-of-box printer because that would make the printer cost dramatically more. The precisely machined platform requires fancy machine leveling like QGL or the independent z-motors of the Trident for the flatness to get trammed in reliably, and meshing out the bed can make a cheaper motion system "tram in" about as well.

I have a prusa mark 3s+ but I want to upgrade it to a 3.5. Aside from a Revo, are there any other good mods to do to it? Linear rails? Better belt tensioners?

>>2943320
Bad at creeping, but for short periods of high force it’s certainly better than any PETG. And when annealed it can handle higher temperatures than ABS. The fibres are mainly there to stop it warping when it’s annealed. You could properly remelt parts in plaster if you wanted good layer adhesion, otherwise choose your print orientation wisely.

>>2943376
Eddy-current scanning probe, auxiliary cooling blower, Klipper if it isn’t already, dual independent Z axis tramming, spaghetti detection camera, the sky’s the limit.
Or get the Core One upgrade kit.

>>2943292
Like for a glock frame? PC, PET-CF (not PETG), PA-CF (nylon), or PPA/PPA-CF if you want it to be at least moderately reliable. The specific brand/formulation is more important than the material type, but you're not going to find a suitable material outside of this list.

>>2943427
is there an equivalent for zytel that isnt $85 a kg? also how many walls on something like a fun is too much? 15? 20?

>>2943432
Despite the brand name, I can’t find any information suggesting that might be coextruded fibre-core filament. Fibre-core makes for significantly better layer adhesion and is nicer on the skin.

>>2943392
The layer adhesion is dogshit which is a huge problem for a handgun frame. PLA pro is the only PLA the gun people use for functional parts

>>2943454
>The layer adhesion is dogshit
Not an issue for all mechanically demanding applications, but yeah I figured that would be a problem for most firearm applications, hence why I suggested remelting or trying to get cf-core PLA. Which nobody makes.

any usable Revo V6 clones yet?
im not paying e3d 80€ for a single fucking coated nozzle

>>2943482
No, I’m thinking of choosing a different nozzle with integrated heat-break for my fancy printer instead. Like the Prusa Nextruder tips, or the Creality Unicorn. I think a Chinese aftermarket parts company has a new one now too.
There’s also whatever INDX will use to consider.

>gf leaves her glasses everywhere all the time
>eventually I end up accidentally crushing them
>glasses FUBAR
>new glasses will take time to arrive
>7 iterations later, temporary glasses are done and functional
I'm actually kinda impressed I was able to print them in the first place, reliably too. The only issue I had was how consistently nasty the interface with the support always end up being.

Dunno if i can FDM this but im going to try

>>2942969 (OP)
Noticed someone had a 3d printed magic the gathering accessory

Asked them about what printer they had

The girl was one of those Etsy 3d printed dragon people

“I don’t know cad so I just print stuff I like from the internet “

Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing

She asks if I have a printer, tell her yeah been printing stuff since about 2009 with stratsys rapid prototypes, been printing my own designs since 2009

Day job is product development as one of the roles as well as sales and technical support for products I’ve overseen the development on…

Lot of my designs are used in the manufacturing industry from my machinist background….


>silence


Oh do you know blender?! I want to do a cosplay blah blah blah explaining later lines to me, how she has to sand the PLA down and prime it to get her iron man suit


> nah I use solidworks, blender isn’t parametric so can’t really use it to design functional stuff it’s more for art and video game design


Oh…. Well you should try printing a dragon! It’s called a print in place and it makes the hinges and you can sell them for like $20!
Anyone else hope this 3d printing TikTok fad dies?


Back in the day forums used to be pretty good for technical help

Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like dry the filament level the bed hurr what are the slicer settings and asking for more and more details because 90% of everything goes over their head

>>2943457
Cf PLA is fucking stupid

Carbon fiber in filament isn’t like epoxy

It’s stranded

It doesn’t actually add strength like epoxy coated carbon fiber cloth

It just prevents warping and shrinkage of nylons or harder to print prone to warp age parts

PLA is easy print

You’re just adding carbon fiber needles and making an unsafe filament for no reason

>>2943427
FMDA recommends PLA+, take your ass back to Etsy your Creality ender 3 owning fag

>>2943516
Interesting. After some adjustments it is perfectly printable except for the extreme seams/blobs. There are parts where the walls are only one perimeter thick and the quality is perfect there but everywhere else its unacceptable levels of artifacts, especially since they would prevent the tubing from properly sealing. I disabled wiping and now we'll see.

>>2943554
Here is a actual picture. I would have never guessed that the one perimeter walls look better than the properly reinforced ones.

>>2943038
>when you add or subtract shapes
or intersect

>>2943039
unplug everything power cycle everything (off-on-off) then replug everything. swap the 6pin wires (iirc that's possible).

if that doesn't work take it apart. there are two longish wires that connect the main board below the tray to the back interface that may have come undone.

also I don't think the ams shows lights or anything unless filament is loaded.

>>2943320
laughs in nylon

>>2943292
my poc friend you need ASA. happy assassination!

>>2943516
you know FDM is full of holes unless you use vase mode and you can't for that shape. also remember it's weak in the planar direction so something like attaching a tube to that will shear it right off. if it's just cosmetic for a mini or something that's fine, otherwise consider thicker walls for better strength or alternate shapes/orientation of printing.

>>2943531
>Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like
have you tried wet filament printing!?

also you could have leveled up by talking about blender you idiot

>>2943589
I know the limitations of FDM and in this case some minimal leaks are fine. I just need it to seal properly against the tubing which it doesn't want to for some reason. I never had such seam issues before.

>>2943531
For some people, life is all about finding a comfortable coffin to slowly die in. These are the kinds of people that fill their house with kitsch.

>>2943532
As I said, it allows you to anneal the PLA without it warping to get its temperature resistance up to 150C.

Where can I find a good guide explaining everything I need to know to choose what kind of motherboard I should get? (I'm retrofitting a z18 with modern electronics so I can use modern slicers and firmware with it)

I've looked around a bit and BigTreeTech seems to have some good options. The issue for me is I don't trust my current understanding of features, options, components, etc to determine if a given board will meet my needs. I'd love to have something that tells me everything I didn't know I didn't know but need to know about 3d printer boards and configuring them.

>>tldr: is there a good "everything you need to know about 3d printer motherboards" resource someone can recommend?

>>2943555
there comes a point were 5 minutes of sanding is preferable to tinkering a week and printing it 50 times

>>2943617
You are not sanding this soft ass filament. Anyways i switched to another one that fits this use case better and it happens that it also has less blobs.

>>2943618
btw these bumps were also internal which is not acceptable.

>>2943618
NTA but I found out that a dremel with a polishing cotton wheel works very well on printed parts.

>>2943585
Tried all of that. Nothing worked. I'm getting replacement parts from Bambu then hoping to flip the fucker.

>>2943618
>You are not sanding this soft ass filament
of course there are other and better methods for these boogers, but i didnt expect a fellow printer to be this braindead.
Card scraper, knife, flush cut side cutter
just to name a few good options

>>2943623
sanding or other post processing doesn't work at all for this part, that's the point. The way it looks on the outside it does on the inside too and there is no way you can fix these angels with tools. Unless you have knives that can crawl like a snake through tight bends that is mr smartass.

Hi /3dpg/! What materials are safe for handling a lot with bare skin?

I'm a digital/semi-trad sculptor learning anatomy. I sculpted a skeleton in blender and had a local service print it so I could use sculpey to add/learn muscles. I improved my skeleton in blender and want to print it again bigger, but since then I've heard some popular filament materials are toxic, even after they're cured. I'm going to be handling this a LOT, maybe even giving copies to kids in my family, so I need it to be safe. Ridges are ok if they're sub-mm, but the higher the resolution the better.

>>2943637
Resin printing you mean? I hear water-washable resins are nicer, but I’m still not sure if they’re particularly nice. You can always spray a food-safe clear-coat on the printed model.

>>2943643
I forgot part of the post: I'm going to order from a place online because the local place shut down i think (they didn't respond to emails at least). So I know material options are available at these 'order a print' places, but idk what's safe or not. I've just read in some threads there's stuff that's very unsafe while printing and people think it's safe once dry, but akshually it's unsafe to handle as well.

I just wanna print with something strong, pretty high-res & safe. It doesn't need to be perfectly smooth though, the coracoid process on that scapula is about as small as the details get.

>>2943637
>popular filaments
Basically all filaments are safe to handle.
>after they're cured
If you're talking resin, as long as the resin is properly cured and the print properly washed there shouldn't be any health risk.
Neither are food safe.

Hey guys I'm gonna try making a robot claw like this guy from scratch and I need a bit of a guide.
>What 3d printer should I be using?
>What type of filament?
>What type of software?

>>2943663
>Basically all filaments are safe to handle.
No you are going to get carbon fibers in your skin then get mesothelioma and die

hi /3dpg/
im getting a non-negligible amount of stringing with some prints ive been doing lately on my bambu p1s (only tried with 1 filament. the filament should be reasonably dry; i put it in my AMS right away and it has dessicant and my hygrometer shows rh ~ 15%. I have printed stuff with this filament before (elegoo black pla+ i think) with no issues. is there a common test i can do to check the root cause? maybe print a specific model with certain settings that can help me investigate?

also, what are some non heatgun/lighter/hair dryer methods to clean up stringing?

>>2943637
FDM the only toxic filament is ASA. Glass and carbon filled nylons are also safe if sealed somehow epoxy coating is good

Resin printing - no resin is truly non-toxic, it slowly poisons you the same way ASA does

All three can be sealed

You can still get resin sickness and asa sickness from fumes though

Asa and resin sickness is forever once you develop a sensitivity it has built up in your system and you will always be sensitive to it

>>2943690
You can print a string test

>>2943615
buy the one you think looks good, learn about what you need it to do, that it doesn't then use that info the buy the one you actually needed.

>>2943615
Some main differences I noticed when browsing a year ago:
>how many stepper driver slots it has
>whether it has swappable stepper drivers of they’re soldered on
>whether it has a slot for a raspberry pi header or compute module
>whether it has an integrated SBC
>how many load MOSFET connectors and sensor connectors it has
>what screen connector(s) it has
>how many amps/watts it can handle total
>whether it can individually address each stepper driver to change its drive current or other specs
>what maximum voltage it supports, and whether it has multiple input rails (e.g. 12V and 24V) for switching different types of loads
>the power rating of any internal DC-DC converters that you might want to run solenoids or SBCs or whatever off
>external connectivity options like wifi and Ethernet and UART/RS232
>internal connectivity options like I2C, USB, and CAN
>whether common upgrades like the BLTouch will click into it without needing to rewire anything
>form-factor, external connector placement, and mounting-holes
For a similar project, I opted for an SKR V1.4, because it was cheaper than the newer SKRs and the minis and still had plenty of stepper slots, and the one or two downsides didn’t really apply to me. I’m not sure what kind of output a mainboard needs to send signals to a mains heated bed, so look into that if you want too.

>>2943588
SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT! so silk pla is out of the question?

>>2943701
>poisons you the same way ASA
Huh?

>>2943531
terrible attitude

>“I don’t know cad so I just print stuff I like from the internet“
What's wrong with this? She found a way to sell junk and make money

>Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing
Did you sit there like a slack jawed yokel or tell her "yeah I know about those things, I've been printing for like a decade"

>hurr ive worked with stratasys industrial shit im so cool and special my parts are used in the industry i love the word industry

This girl just found some new stuff that interested her, and leaned bits and pieces of a much larger area of expertise that was relevant to her. Why would you lecture someone about CAD vs Blender and try flex about parametric modeling (lol). She's building stuff, using creative design tools, having fun, possibly making money. All things to encourage, not put down

As someone who has an eng. degree, has done plenty of work with autocad, solidworks, pro/e (is that even around anymore?), has done FSAE, has done plenty of hand machining, has gotten plenty of crazy shit fabricated from my CAD work you just sound like you're insufferable.

>Nowadays it’s literal idiots saying shit like dry the filament level the bed hurr ... because 90% of everything goes over their head
No its because that advice solves 90% of the problems for 90% of people for 90% of their use cases. Stop being a dickhead; most people learn as they need to. That girl doesn't need probably doesn't need CAD for middling cosplay shit, but one day she'll want to make something practical or a part for some tool or something and maybe she'll seek out more appropriate software. Let people pull verts and have fun, lots of people who start that way could end up as cnc gods

>>2943531
As much as I hate 3d printed slop, its an overall net positive. It creates economies of scale and a good distraction. Those people making $12 per month selling fidget toys and a bunch of landfill orders that never sell help keep filament, machine, spare part prices low. When I started in like 2012 it cost like $40 for a roll of filament and the $6000 machine could barely print it. Now I have 7 machines chewing through $12 rolls of filament all day with hardly any of my involvement. Hope to keep growing. That Dancyn3d guy is pretty inspirational honestly. Has like 250 printers and he prints nothing but pure shit and copyrighted material. Want to get to that level but with stuff people actually need.

>>2943720
250 printers for what? if hes mass producing he could have bought an injection mold. idiot.

>>2943718
> you just sound like you're insufferable
he’s flaunting his not-so-subtly nazi-inspired name, that was already a given

>>2943721
Let's do some math: at $2k per printer, 250 printers is like half a million as a rough estimate. A medium sized injection molding machine costs in the ballpark of $100k, but then you have the molds: depending on size and complexity they range from $10k to $100k and higher. Let's say an average of $20k per mold. This mean that with half a million you can mass produce about 20 items. You can understand how this is a very different industrial use-case compared to a 3D print farm.

>>2943727
you dont have to own the physical machine but if you spent half a freaking million dollars on 3d printers you kight as well lol

>>2943718
How did I flex cad programs?

She said she was interested in maybe one day potentially learning a design program, asked if I used blender at work

I said no it lacks these features


If I wanted to flex on her I’d just be like yeah your entry level Bambu a1 sucks I got myself 5 prusa machines I built up and run in a farm

>>2943726
I’m not a nazi I just think society would be better off with less Jews, nigs, spics and do on. Hitler had some great ideas, and if you enjoy driving a Mazda rx-7 on freeways in the way to the airport where you take a jet plane ride to a shooting competition where you shoot any intermediate caliber rifle in a competition you would agree

Also forgiving 25% of the mortgage for every child a married couples has (excluding Jews) was a very good idea was it not?

>>2943729
There are pros and cons to 3d printing and injection molding. 3d printing shines when it comes to geometry that injection mold cant produce. Injection molds require uniform thickness throughout while 3d printing doesnt. 3d printing is also better at low MOQs and colorways. When you run an injection molding machine you will produce thousands of parts in basically one color. With 3 printing you can produce 5 units of 5 colors and you also don't have to store inventory.

He has 250 printers because he was able to build up to 250 printers. He got into the flexi dragon shit early and sold for cheaper than everyone else and appears to be grinding. Lately it looks like that cash cow is gone and now hes just printing hundreds of slop SKUs and having his wife do tiktok lives where people buy whatever shes filming on the table. I imagine its still making decent money, but that business isnt even possible with injection molding.

>>2943531
>Proceeds to explain slicers and materials to me like I have never heard of 3d printing
she mansplained printing to you. feels bad eh?

>>2943670
>>What 3d printer should I be using?
Doesn't matter as long as it prints within tolerance

>What type of filament?
Again, doesn't matter as long as it is fit for purpose. PLA works just fine for a hobby project usually

>What type of software?
This is the most important question. Printing and assembling a relatively simple robot is easy. Even designing one isn't too hard. Making it move etc. is the very hard part. You could write your own software from scratch, ROS is popular and well documented but quite complicated and most likely overkill or you could try Isaac Sim and Isaac Lab which are poorly documented and also complicated.

>>2943764
size matters. any normal size printer should be fine depending on the scale OP wants to build. you can do a lot with a mini but for an arm any standard 10x10 should do.

>>2943670
PLA for prototyping, you can always use another filament for the final version but there is no reason not to prototype with the cheapest easiest filament.
Fusion360 or solidworks for CAD

>>2943701
>ASA is poison
[citation needed]

I'm looking to get the same results I get from ordering prints from PCB way at home.

I have a UniFormation GKtwo and I use Siraya Tech resin.
My prints are sharper than PCBway's but mine are brittle, screws shatter any posts I try to screw in to but my prints have sharper corners and less transparent.

I'm considering another printer (build volume I'm trying to print is 150mm). What can I do to get the same results as them?
I'm happy with parts being darker and matte.

>>2943770
Size isn't a huge concern if you design yourself unless we're talking industrial robot scale.

>>2943772
>Siraya Tech resin
simple as. different resins, different additives, different levels of brittleness. the >>>/tg/3dpg guys are the resin fags but they mostly care about their minis shattering when dropped, not transparency but they still might be better help.

>>2943774
size is a concern when "any printer" includes mini-format beds. it's just a needless trap to avoid getting a mini instead of a standard bed. OP seems like a clueless retard so it bears mentioning.

>>2943775
>OP seems like a clueless retard so it bears mentioning.
You're not wrong

>>2943701
handling ASA does not poison you
>>2943732
go away faggot

>>2943690
Reduce your part cooling fan speed. Assuming youre printing PLA, I first start with 35% did a couple of prints and bump it up until overhang looks good, I normally leave the retraction speed and distance at default.

Just my anecdote YMMV

>>2943509
I broke some sunglasses so I wonder about printing the lens holders flat in TPU, but then I have to minimize the material used and thus maximize the tension so some kind of cone or speculum might be necessary to pop them in instead of tightening the usual glasses frame screws. But too much tension will lead to creep and it's unclear what amount of creep of the tpu frame or the lens even counts as failure.

>>2943806
I printed those glasses in PLA. As I said it took me 7 iterations to reach an acceptable level of functionality, and 3 of those were just to reach the right fit for the lenses. Friction is the just enough to keep the lenses in place for normal use, but you can expect them to pop out if you clean or handle the glasses a bit too much. After all I was trying to stay within acceptable size limits of what originally was a metal frame; if I had a 0,2mm nozzle, which I don't, I probably would have tried to make the frame-lens interface concave, so that there was also a more snap-like kind of fit, instead of just pressing the lens in place until it stays.
>too much tension will lead to creep
Allow me to ackchually on you: yes, tension leads to creep, but when you apply a constant deformation (which is what happens when you make a press fit, i.e. our case) what you get is stress-relaxation, which is the "dual" of creep.

>>2943509
>>2943838
how come you don't have a channel for the lenses to pop into?

>>2943615
>>Follow up question about firmware (more brief than the tldr below): Is there any reason to not plan on using Klipper?

I know it's popular but is it objectively better in every way? In Creality's slicer there's an option to enable arc fitting which enables the use of G2 and G3 commands, so the slicer will see something that looks like a curve when generating a toolpath and rather than using a bunch of short G1 straight lines to approximate it, instead it fits an actual smooth curve to within the existing tolerances (if possible) and uses an actual G2 or G3 arc command, so your curve/circle gets printed in a single smooth motion rather than many short segments. Unfortunately the slicer also says to not use this feature with Klipper because it will automatically re-convert those smooth curves back into line segments. That and possibly added complexity or cost might be the only reason I know of not to use Klipper, but I also know very little about firmware. From what I could tell, Marlin seemed to be the next most common/capable firmware at the moment.
>>TLDR: What does Klipper offer that no other common firmware does? What would be the next most preferred firmware to use after Klipper?

>>2943853
Don't forget reprap firmware. Curves are kinda superfluous if your line segments are small enough.

>>2943589
>>2943591
>>FDM is full of holes
>>Some leaks are fine

It may not be practical for what you're doing but you CAN make water-tight FDM parts. I don't know if they would be able to hold pressure but just water is totally doable. Basically if it leaks at all, you can just add an additional wall layer. Still leaks? Add another. Rinse and repeat until your part is sufficiently water/air tight for your needs. (You also may need to increase the number of floor/roof layers as well, and adding a fillet between them and the wall helps too)

How many walls are needed to prevent leaks depends on the printer and how well its tuned, and probably the exact shape of the part. I made a simple cube about 2 inches on a side with no top on it that held water reliably with only the default 2 wall lines on my K1 SE, whereas my old-ass z18 takes 4 wall lines to do the same. Strangely, with the z18, if I use 3 wall lines the part itself will hold water, ie nothing will drip out no matter how long I wait, but water DOES get into the infill a bit, which might become disgusting over time, or if allowed to freeze, potentially catastrophic.

>>TLDR: if you use enough wall lines, you can basically make any FDM part water-tight

But yeah, the more you know!

>>2943855
Also increasing extrusion ratio, using wider wall thicknesses, alternating numbers of walls, and brick layers should all improve layer stacking for better watertightness.
This Japanese guy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkg-PbVbQrQ
Shows the process to make crystal-clear PETG prints with no part cooling and a lot of polishing. He states that tuning your settings and printer to be able to achieve these feats, while great for aesthetic purposes, also ensures your layer stacking and layer adhesion are as high as they reasonably can be. I suspect these results would be applicable to making prints waterproof.

>>2943712
>whether it has swappable stepper drivers of they’re soldered on
I'm assuming that as a general rule of thumb, swappable is better cause it lets you use ones with a higher power rating/better cooling/more microsteps/etc?

>external connectivity options like wifi and Ethernet and UART/RS232
Is this just for sending files to the printer, or also for adjusting settings and other things at the firmware level? (or is that only possible to do by plugging in an SD card with the appropriate changes in the relevant files or something?) Like can I just plug in to eathernet, USB, UART/RS232, etc and open up a terminal or even get a UI interface to the settings on the board?

>the power rating of any internal DC-DC converters that you might want to run solenoids or SBCs or whatever off
What would a solenoid be used for in a printer?

>>2943712
>>whether it has a slot for a raspberry pi header or compute module
Do you ALWAYS need a separate compute module to run Klipper? I'm looking at some of the boards on BTT and the board itself has an arm-cortex m7 clocked at like 550 MHz. With that kind of compute power on the board itself do you still need a separate raspberry pi/compute module to run the Klipper software and then feed the instructions to the main cpu on the board, or can the built-in cpu run Klipper natively and still send out the instructions at the same time?

Can someone help tune my retraction? This here is a TPU retraction tower from 0 to 5mm on a (direct drive), at 12mm/s retraction and 30mm/s deretraction. You can see where the stringing is basically nonexistent at around the 1.5mm area as I tuned it before, but it also coincides with a large void, where 2-3mm of the wall just isn’t extruded during the deretraction phase. So for whatever reason, it takes too long after a travel move for filament to come out of the nozzle.

Is my retraction speed too low or high? What about deretraction speed? Should I be trying to tune down the stringing above or below this void-filled zone, or should I be aiming to reduce the voids at the 1.5mm retraction area? Or just find a compromise?

I’m trying another tower at much lower retraction values (0-1mm) and higher speeds (30 and 60mm/s respectively), we’ll see how that goes I guess, but it feels like I’m shooting in the dark.

>>2943858
>swappable is better
Generally I guess so? There's a small chance that stepper drivers die and this allows you to swap them, but I've never seen that so mainly the idea is you can swap your drivers for higher-spec drivers. But they're less compact, and arguably more limiting since you probably can't put as many amps through those pin headers as some high-end printers desire for beefy steppers.

>Is this just for sending files to the printer, or also for adjusting settings and other things at the firmware level
Non-klipper printers I believe can still print over wifi if they have a wifi module installed. I know some configuring can be done via a normal wired USB connection, so I imagine it's possible to do that over wifi, but I haven't heard of anyone doing that. But when you do have a klipperised printer and the network connection is to the SoC, then you can definitely do all your configuration and such via that network connection. Klipper printers can also adjust basically everything from this connection, while many more serious adjustments to a Marlin build (e.g. enabling BLtouch, enabling linear advance, changing build volume, etc.) need to be done by rebuilding the firmware. Not to mention things like cameras and AI monitoring.

>Do you ALWAYS need a separate compute module to run Klipper
I believe some commercial printers run everything from an SoC with enough I/O and real-time capabilities, but all the DIY builds I've seen use a seperate microcontroller for the real-time stepper driving and such, with an SoC like a raspi for the higher-level stuff. But I think reprap firmware can be run on a single chip, and some people still choose it.

>>2943591

If you happen to use silicone tubing or whatever with pneumatic fittings like pic related, I normally add a 9x4x2.5 silicone oring and have both fittings press against the oring to create a nice seal.

>>2943795
Printing it does retard

>>2943874
you are implying ASA needs to be sealed. offgasing while its molten is completely different from resin toxicity moron

>>2943860
Hmm, it looks like 0.11 would be good from some other towers, but after a print I'm still getting big voids from the deretractions. Then I tried setting the deretraction speed to just 5mm/s and it didn't fix anything.On the forums some people are saying it's because of arachne, and some that it's linear advance. I just printed a retraction tower with classic wall generation and that didn't fix anything, now I'm printing a retraction tower with linear advance disabled. Apparently Prusa Minis have this issue, especially with 0.6mm nozzles:

Maybe I should try enabling scarf seams, but I can't find a g-code generator that varies scarf length, nor do I know if my retraction test tower will work with scarf seams at all.

Saw someone selling a k2 plus combo with a graphite bed tor 1k...
should i?

>>2943883
Turning linear advance off didn't help either, but enabling scarf seams appear to have benefited me. Thought I had it tuned in, but I just printed something and it had an awful internal seam, despite it doing a scarf seam there. But it seems scarf seams do apply to Orca's internal retraction-tower generator, so I can test it more tomorrow, shame it can only vary retraction distance by layer, and not retraction speed, deretraction speed, fan speed, temperature, or any of the other variables that might influence stringing. Damn this is tedious.

About to get my first printer. How much of this stuff do I actually need? I'm running up to a $400 purchase here.

>>2943933
Just get the printer and some basic filaments like PLA. That will get you started and you see if you actually like the hobby. You don't really need stuff like extra build plates or printheads as a beginner.
You can then invest to upgrades and more expansive filaments if find that you are interested and want to print using different filaments.

>>2943933
>print right out of the box
>replacement parts
>upgrade parts
pick one. also just get a single roll of PLA you don't fucking need CF you don't even know what you're doing yet.

in case that wasn't clear: just and only buy the printer and one roll of PLA. hojor3D from amazon is fucking amazing and my last roll was like $14.

when you decide to get a PEI plate get ONE not a fucking pack. you can use normal glue sticks but the purpose made ones are better (you still don't need them)

How good is an used q1 pro? I can buy slightly used one for super cheap and I want to get into 3d printing, I used some 3d printers beforehand in work.

>>2943943
If the price is decent and you can check how it prints before buying it makes a pretty good first printer.
Never buy an used 3D printer without being able to confirm how it prints.

>>2943863
>arguably more limiting since you probably can't put as many amps through those pin headers as some high-end printers desire for beefy steppers.
I would have thought board mounted drivers would be more limited by that, since they only have the copper traces on the board to feed them compared to thick headers. plus you might be able to mount larger heatsinks since it's less compact?

>all the DIY builds I've seen use a separate microcontroller for the real-time stepper driving and such, with an SoC like a raspi for the higher-level stuff
So if I understand you correctly, this board https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-octopus-pro-v1-0-chip-f446 would still need a separate compute module, ie a raspi?

Meanwhile this board https://biqu.equipment/products/manta-m4p-m8p?variant=40447029379170 would need to be purchased with the "CB1" add on to use Klipper, right? (I'm assuming "CBx" is "Compute Board <number>"?)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85wUds1lQjg

New Ultimaker.

>>2943888
Help, please.

I currently have a Bambu A1 and I want to upgrade to a new printer that can do some more technical filaments like ASA and CF/GF stuff, and I also want a larger print area. I don't give a shit about ASM systems or multi color printing.
Should I just get Qidi Plus4 now, or wait until Bambu H2S becomes available without the ASM combo?
Is Bambu H2S significantly better than Plus4?

>>2943958
SMD MOSFETs can be rated up to 200A, so PCB traces can carry a fair bit of current. Pin-headers likely could as well if soldered on both sides, it’s just the hot-swappable spring-loaded pin socket headers that I wouldn’t trust with more than a few amps.

Yeah the BTT Octopus still needs an external Raspberry Pi or equivalent plugged in via USB, while the Manta has a slot for either a Raspberry Pi Compute Module, or BTT’s own knockoff the CB1 or CB2. There may be other brands that work here too.

>>2943979
If it’s your first printer, don’t buy used. If not, you’re the only one with any information about the state it’s in and the value you’d get out of it. From the reviews I’ve seen, it’s a nice printer for PLA, but its bed leveling doesn’t compensate sufficiently for thermal expansion and so it has 1st layer issues with ABS.

wtf mang? wtf is dis shieeeet!!

>>2944000
Yeah, the thing is that graphite beds don't suffer from the dreaded taco shape, plus they don't need to heatsoak due to their low thermal expansion.

>>2943847
The thickness of the frame doesn't really allow for such a feature to show up in practice. If I was printing them in resin, sure, I would have included such a feature, but for now as long as friction holds the lenses in place, then it's good enough, it's a temporary solution anyway.
>>2944004
Z-offset way too high, bed not level or Z-tilt not properly calibrated.

>>2942980
Solidworks is even more ass and trying to use is a pain beyond bearing as you will have customer support on speed dial. Sometimes you will literally have to remake an entire model exactly the same and it just works.

Just spent an hour trying to figure out why my TPU prints kept stopping a minute in. Did a cold pull with TPU, then a cold pull with PETG, ultimately I just swapped the brass PTFE-coated nozzle for a copper/hardened-steel bimetal nozzle, and that seems to be working. Damn the retraction tower is printing like shit with scarf seams though.

>>2942987
61% here and printing with some PETG from 2020 lol
fix your settings

>>2942980
Yeah I gave up on trying to use my brain and just used this:
>>2943033

I have two prusa mark 3.5's that aren't doing fuck of all shit 80% of the time. What can I do to make some money on the side with them?

I bought a 5kg spool a while back and just hooked it up, and found that my extruder isn't powerful enough to handle it. I've got about 150g of filament left on my only 1kg spool, no empty spools. What are my options for fixing this?

>>2944102
Like your extruder can't pull hard enough to rotate the spool? Does your spool holder not have bearings?
>no empty spools
>I've got about 150g of filament left on my only 1kg spool
Sounds like you're about to have an empty spool. Once you do, wind some of the 5kg spool's filament onto the 1kg spool and use that.

>>2944102
Get a motorised filament buffer, if not something like an Infinityflow S1.

>>2944069
Tbh 99% of all work is just ChatGPT now

I have lazy (mostly Mexican/hispanic) coworkers just chat flying their jobs

I bet you there happened to be at least one Latino out there who cheated his way through an engineering degree, lied on his resume enough to actually be a Hispanic engineer making shit that falls apart unlike the Asians or whites … who absolutely is using ChatGPT to do his CAD work

>>2944120
My spool holder has bearings, they could be smoother but I think it's mostly just overcoming the inertia of the stationary spool that's the problem. With the 1 kg spool, I unhooked one loop over the edge, and it just starts to pull the loop straight before the spool spins and it reforms the loop. I tried the same thing with the 5kg spool it's pulled taught the entire time. I tried straightening out the filament path and that didn't help either, it's still stretch taught between the runout sensor and the spool, and the spool moves an itty-bitty amount at a time while I'm getting massive underextrusion as soon as it starts going faster than 3 or 4 m3/s.

I guess respooling is the best option, I was just hoping maybe there'd be an option that doesn't leave a bunch of scraps at the end of the spool.

>>2944127
Nta but how much is Ai used in 3d printing? I know it can be used to make models but how much is it used on the 3d printing itself?

>>2944137
there's spaghetti detection ai, i think there's also an ai that can help choose the right slicer settings for a certain slicer

I think I'm getting heat-creep issues (>>2944049, got it a second time after the nozzle swap), the heat isn't getting up to the extruder but it's getting warm enough in the heat-sink that the filament gets stuck there without conferring force down to the molten filament in the nozzle. I'm running a standard V6 heat-sink and bimetallic heat-break, but it's still somewhat warm in the heat-sink, I assume putting a more powerful fan on the heat-sink will help me through this. At the moment I've got a 3010 fan on it, plus two 4010 blowers for part cooling, but I still have the old fans from my ender 3 v2 that I could conceivably make a bracket and duct for.

Newbro here, is 3d printing pet/petg liquid containers feasible? Wanted to make custom milk and water tanks for my coffee grinder but many people mentioned tiny leaks between layers and bacteria growth bullshit

>>2943855
The part where leaks could occur works fine. Its underwater so it would have to be a little airtight and it seems that it is. There are no bubbles coming from it.

Still not a perfect system. Too little water intake results in air flowing out the water intake and the air pump needs to fight a lot more than it should resulting in extra noise.

>>2943865
That's a good idea thanks. I don't need to apply it right now but i see it coming in handy in some other projects.

>>2944159
If you want to use a 3D printed container for milk etc you need to seal it with food safe epoxy or something like that. Otherwise bacteria can grow and build up in the microscopic cracks between the layers.
Read this for more info:
https://formlabs.com/eu/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/

>>2944163
Is this one of those powerhead water pumps for fish tanks that pump water by pumping air that carries the water with it?

>>2944184
Yes. The airpump gets attached to the little intake and as long as the contraption stays upright you don't have to do anything else besides attach some sort of tube at the top. I made this model to work with the tubing i have on hand so the outlet is smaller than the inlet which is not good. In my case this part connects to a sort of grate (also 3d printed) which is under the soil and pulls water through it.

Not related to the print itself but it seems that one way valves resist the pump quite a lot so i have to see how i fix that also. Its the main reason for the pumps noise i believe.

>>2943533
FMDA's recommendations are literally for ender 3 owners printing luigigats that need to be racked twice every shot. PLA+ is not suitable for a reliable and long lasting handgun frame.

I print cases for electronic devices. Everytime I print a part where there are holes in a surface I got this problem, that the slicer decides to make first a single kontur around all holes. Which mostly results in that little circles lose adhesion. So I have to start the print process several times until all the little circles stay in place by accident. Can't I say the slicer to first print the filling of the surface and then these circle conturs? Or that it does not print a single contur first but the whole wall at once? .. What is the desired way to solve this problem?

>>2944205
I know exactly what you are talking about. It inevitably starts by printing the smallest, least likely to adhere on it's own without support from other lines section. Small holes are the worst.
I'm sure there is a way to do this that is elegant, but maybe a brute force method would be to tell it to print the outer wall before inner? It's not a good solution but I don't know of a better one off the top of my head. If you haven't dredged through all the advanced options in your slicer, try that too.

>>2944190
They use ender 3s because almost every other printer on the market uses a WiFi printing option that talks to home.

Bambu labs literally sends the sliced file back home then to your printer via cloud for their work solution

So if you print a gun authorities will know

And ender 3 is stupid no WiFi printing no ai no auto bed leveling

Just hot nozzle and a not very good motion system for $99 with a free micro sd card$20 worth of tools and a free $20 roll of filament leaves like $40 in budget for a printer

>>2944188
neat, so you sort of get a little bit of undergravel filtration effect too.

And yeah back-check valves can sometimes sap a lot of pressure. Have you considered trying to place the pump above the waterline, that way it cannot possibly siphon into it and just not use a backcheck valve? Another thing is that I've found there can be significant variation between one cheap backcheck valve and another, so trying different ones might help as one might just be junk and require an excessive amount of pressure to open up.

>>2944163
If it helps, I decided to try some permatex red rtv silicone high temp gasket maker #81160 as a silicone adhesive between two silicone tubes, and it seems to hold a seal as well, cure activator is water but after its cured idk if its fine for underwater use.

>>2944205
I just set lots of perimeters (and maybe change the order of them too) so it never lays down just one perimeter, rather it does like 5. Now I’ve even set my top and bottom infill patterns to be concentric so they’re all like that, helps with PETG. Also consider using internal brims.

>>2944224
Literally any printer running Marlin or stock Klipper won’t be sending files to some server, like anything from Prusa, or a Sovol Zero. And 99% of printers running their own flavour of Klipper are probably fine too, like Qidi or Elegoo, any network connection is trivially hosted locally. Bambu is the only significant exception. Even if you’re paranoid, all these printers can be used without the internet by simply not giving them a network connection and printing via sneakernet. And even if the CCP knows you’re printing projectile weapons, they probably think its in their best interest to NOT tell your western government.

>>2944004
Your printer is gradually getting Alzheimer's.

>>2944224
You still have the option of building a Voron or Ratrig, or buying an SV08 and reflashing all of the firmware so you know exactly what's on your device. Printing in PLA+ is a cope for people living in abject poverty who still want the option to defend themselves. Which is fine, but there's far better options for those of us with better machines.

Not that PLA is a bad material, plenty of applications won't benefit from anything more than that. Guns are one of the applications that *will* benefit.

>>2944253
How do you know what’s in your printer? Closed source is closed source

You only think you know what your iPhone is transmitting

Learn to code

Learn what a rubber ducky is and the world becomes a scary place with all this closed source shit

>>2944289
>How do you know what’s in your printer?
Because I flashed my own firmware to it, after building it from source that I configured myself. Also my printer doesn't have networking capability and I've never plugged it into a computer.
>Closed source is closed source
Marlin, Klipper, and RRF are open source though. Only Bambu's firmware is explicitly closed-source (even it's been reverse engineered), and there's a few Klipper printers that haven't yet released source code, so I'd recommend avoiding those too.

Never had a 3d printer before, but found a shitty "Monoprice Maker Select Plus 3D Printer" off the streets and it turns on and moves when I clicked the bed leveling button. What should I be checking for to see if it's absolutely broken and not worth salvaging?

>>2944300
There should be a female voice that says welcome to monoprice maker select in a oddly super sexy voice


If it doesn’t, you can reinstall the firmware by going to meat spin .com and selecting your printer

>>2944289
>rubber ducky

Shit is so cringe, I bet you have a flipper zero collecting dust with your rubber ducky and "learn to code" ha.... you're pic related.

>>2944319
Rubber ducky can be any sub device, I’m a millennial so yeah I have a box full of 1-2gb usb 1.0 flash drives somewhere from middle school to college

>>2944225
>neat, so you sort of get a little bit of undergravel filtration effect too.
Its only a side effect. I just wanted a wave maker but didn't want some huge and intrusive thing that needs a actual filter behind it to prevent the fry from being killed.

>Have you considered trying to place the pump above the waterline.
I am trying things out now. Yes having the pump connected straight to the aquarium makes it run quieter but then its not hidden in furniture which seems to be quieter. I have noticed however that the air hose before the valve pulses a lot while the one after is smooth. And since its so short i think simply making that part longer could give the pump a bigger buffer of sorts so even out the pressure spikes if that makes sense. Im just experimenting to see what works best to be honest. I just need something that is safe, quiet, and prevents stagnant water.

>>2944229
Water safety is obviously important here but it does make this a lot harder than it should sadly. PVC tubes don't work but can be easily made to fit while aquarium safe pipes are not and even just a little water level variation would mess things up.


But now i have found another issue. This pump is not meant to run 24/7 so is a matter of time before a young critter finds its way into the system and gets stuck under the soil for the rest of its life. But since there is both air and water coming out the pump i see no simple nozzle that is both safe and quiet right now. I have a feeling that this might take a while to be honest.

>>2944300
printed on a monoprice mini delta for 5 years then sold it to a guy who used it for another year and then bought an A1 mini

check the tip gets hot and the extruder powers. you can get 3d pen filament for super cheap if you want to test it instead of buying a roll or don't have a buddy/source for cutoffs.

check for an sd card, to print you have to move the .gcode (post slicing) to it with an sd card.

>>2944360
3D pen filament can often be PCL, which melts at a very low temperature and is impossible to purge out with PLA without burning it. Beware.

>>2944280
Ratrig is my dream, want build 300mm one so bad, or maybe some other project but ratrig and LH stinger comes to my mind over and over, no money for that >>2944060
For some reason I can print PETG with moisture like that just fine but for any kind of TPU I have to run it 1h in dryer just before print, and difference with stringing is huge. For PETG I don't think drying is super necessary but probably results will be better with dry filament

PCTG seems to be a decent material option for compliant mechanisms. It sure prints a lot easier than CPE HG100 given that you can actually run the cooling fan.

>>2944579
Haven’t heard about CPE. PP will always be best for compliant mechanisms with tight bend radii like over-centre hinges, but for designs more like a precision flexure with wide bend radii it matters less. For them I think stiffness and creep-resistance are more important properties.

>>2944590
Snap hooks are what I'm into, mainly. You want both force and deflection for those.

>>2943933
like other guy said fuck that "upgrade" shit theyre selling and get started on cheap rolls of pla and ABS which the centauri carbon can breeze through

>>2944060
wet petg works fine for me, i get to the drier part of the spool and it spaghettis on me.

>>2943732
You sound just like a regular cunt. I bet you have a limited amount of friends and they also are cunts

Can G-Code copying errors cause layer shifts?

>>2944758
I've had corrupt gcode cause something that seemed like layer shift, I never investigated just resliced after the second error in the exact same layer on reprint.

>>2944596
gotta keep your ams hydrated

>>2944579
>>2944590
>when your PLA stops complying

feels kinda gay bro

It's it just me or is cura slicing fucking dog shit? What is this general's go to slicing program?

Gridfinity sucks bros first time in 5 years I had 7 failed prints in a single day. IDK how people can print these and idk why they are failing on two of my printers and two different brand of filament. Its crazy that things are popular and I wish i didnt waste a day on these piece of shit garbage.

>>2944823
clean your beds with warm soapy water if you haven't already

>>2944823
They don’t have to be perfect to work. The bins really like to peel up on the corners

Good morning.

>>2944827

The problem wasnt the models coming off the bed the printer just stopped printing at the same layer height no signs of clogs in the model during print. I even tried another different brand and it just failed sooner in the print.

>>2944845
The ones that were successful do have slight corner peel which is beneficial for me on a glass bed needing to remove a print. I dont have any aerosal pressurized air and taking the tape off and putting the glass sheet in the freezer is just inconvenient after a while. Just regular ol purple glue has made it easier to remove prints though.

>>2944849
Have you completed long prints with this filament successfully before this? Heat creep could be to blame.

>>2944852

Specifically this brand no, I have printed 6+ hours at a time back to back when I was printing other bins for fastener hardware.

Its crazy to have two different brands on two different printers to fail at the same layer. So infuriating

>>2942969 (OP)
I want to bu a second hand 3d printer(either filament or resin). What quick tests can I ask the seller to run to see if it work correctly?

>>2944848
As best as I can tell, this layer shifting was a result of the Y-axis binding due to gantry racking + thermal expansion. The J1 and J1S have a double-belt Y-axis and independent X belts, so it's basic cartesian rather than coreXY. I straightened the gantry out by disabling motors, loosening the Y-axis drive shaft coupler, and running the gantry back and forth a couple times before tightening the coupler. The Y-axis ran a lot smoother after this.

The J1/J1S does have a useful "layer shift alarm" in its mechanical design. Every time an axis binds, the rapid storage and release of energy in the axis makes the printer jump, causing the lid to slam like an out-of-balance clothes washer.

what youtubers should I use for legit reviews? Im trying to watch reviews for the U1 and everyone is a total fucking shill. Are there any good reviewers in the space, like GN for PC shit? Or are they all paid garbage

>>2944849
Slicer issue?

>>2944384
https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/pcl-polycaprolactone-various-colors-1-75mm?variant=9236787331108

"CL Filament offer low melting temperature . The filament become ductile at 58°C - 60°C and it can be printed as low as 70°C to 140°C . "

mein 3d pen can go as low as 130º so i can use PCL as well

>>2944895
Maybe, but maybe not, I switched to polymaker filament that I bought a few years ago, I also generated the bins from a different website that uses "gridfinity rebuilt" library and so far its printing successfully, maybe it was just the filament I was using is shit. I didnt see any problems in th e slicer gcode preview. I may download the old gcodes and see if there is any odd generated code around the same layer height, but it could have been the filament I was using.

>>2944876
Aurora Tech seems decent, but she focuses on aesthetic modelling rather than engineering, so you’ll see it through the lens of a PLA pusher. If you care about ABS or Nylon, I’d wait until the enclosure and chamber heater are into the public to get reviews on those, otherwise no way to tell how it will perform after heat-soak.

>>2944876
>what youtubers
>youtubers
found your problem

>>2944983
Where else are you going to find a detailed review that requires substantial effort to convincingly fake anything? Some youtubers correctly called out the FLSun S1 for being noisy and not able to print at the advertised speed, can’t remember which ones.

On an .stl model, how do I change the size of the left hole to be as small as the right, so that the heat insert fits? I have zero modelling knowledge, and I just want to change the size of that hole. I thought it would be as simple as downloading blender or some shit and using some circle resize tool, but apparently not lmao. Any help would be appreciated, even just telling me another 3d modelling general where I might have more luck, thanks anons.

>>2945031
>create donut with the right height and inner hole that slightly overfits the existing hole
>add it in the slicer to the other part (add part/assemble in orcaslicer)
>move and rotate it around so it fits
>check the sliced file if everything looks good

>>2945031
in your slicer you can exactly position a cylinder to cover the hole and match the sides, in orca/bambu it's called and assembly which allows you to position the piece off the bed. you can then add another negative cylinder for the hole and set it as a negative part.

you should be able to export it as a new .stl

you might be able to mirror and or slice the existing stl to use the right piece for the left

>>2944859
You should probably first decide if you want filament printer or resin printer.
For FDM ask the seller to print a benchy in front of you but tell him to do it in one of the corners of the bed. That way you will see if the thing actually prints and if it can level itself properly.
The benchy should be downloaded and sliced by him in the slicer as opposed to ready-made g-code from printer manufacturer. Don't trust any models printed from those g-codes.
Also look for the most recent ender possible, just not the cheap versions.
For resin I have no idea.

Free ender 3 anon here

What the fuck does this mean:

my extruder has been upgraded to all metal, properly calibrated e-steps just a moment ago. printing benchy, the first few layers the extruder will start to skip constantly. i can get this to completely stop if i just put my grip on the tension arm just slightly to *relieve* the tension. i'm being told that the teeth of the extruder should be able to grip the filament but not leave like huge teeth marks in it, but not matter how loose i make this extruder spring it still grips it too tight and makes those teeth marks. does this thing really just need to be looser? how the fuck do i do that if the spring by default makes it too tight?

>>2945118
There's nothing wrong with leaving teeth marks. That extruder looks pretty shit compared to a standard plastic BMG clone.

>>2945121
but how does that explain why loosening it ever so slightly with my finger makes it stop skipping? I actually did look at the original default plastic extruders spring and it's actually way shorter, and thus way less tension on the filament. I just put it on and I'm gonna test how it functions now.

>>2945118
>>2945121
>>2945125
shorter spring fixed it completely. no longer skipping at all.

thanks for the moral support

>>2945131
keep in mind anon, it could be skipping because the filament is catching before the extruder.
mate of mine spent literal hours troubleshooting his ender with me over the phone, i gave in and drove the 20 minutes to his place, just to pull the other half of the spool out of the birds nest of a wiring loom it got tangled in.
also, in your pic it looks like the filament is scraping on the extruder arm.

>>2945155
Those metal extruders always scrape a bit there, it's not a significant problem.

>>2943615
A good point to look for is "has somebody already used this to do what I want?"

a haiku:
>40 hour print
>I fucked up dimensions
>fml my life

>>2945334
do you pronounce "dimensions" with four syllables?

Have a benchy

>>2945356
Night and day since i got my p1s

Printed ABS for the first time.

>>2945383
Oh boy, you're about to find out just how much fun ABS/ASA supports are to remove.

I finnaly found temp settings that allowed me to print ASA without delamination. And I now have a filter ready to go into my ZeroG Nebula 370. This print was retraction hell and kept delaminating due to the perforations. But the filter design is neat, with magnets. Im also going to design and print some duct work and a diffusor to eliminate the filter fan as a source of drafts... I also have to print parts for my vz cnc toolhead so I can get rid of my bl touch and use beacon.

I kind of want to build a new printer too, but a smaller one.

The tuning towers turned out fine. 1.7 mm retraction is supposedly the sweet spot.

SO why does this setting made this fucking extreme of a mess? Can scarf joints cause this too??

I need a nozzle that is harder than brass so avoid leaking copper into my parts but not a pain in the ass like cheap ruby is.
Any recommendations? Im thinking about getting a coated tool steel one from micro swiss for 20 bucks. Im not printing abrasives but its still important not to get the nozzle be part of the print.

What's the shadow-like patches above and below the numbers caused by? Why is the text so smudged?

Bambu Lab A1 with old firmware.
Elegoo Rapid PETG
Orca Slicer
I don't quite remember the exact settings...
0.4mm stainless steel nozzle
245 nozzle temp
18 mm^2/s flow rate (I've since lowered it to 15 mm^2)
0.6 PA
1.05 flow rate
Default retraction and z-hop (0.8 and 0.4, I think)
2.0 layer height profile. Probably mostly stock.

>>2943033
Does it have the ability to let me draw a 2D shape and extend the shape on the Z axis?

>>2945432
Copper nozzle with hardened steel insert. Some even have a DLC coating, which might be handy. Solid tool steel nozzles have pretty bad thermal conductivity.
Why has nobody made an anodised aluminium nozzle yet?

>>2945440
>Copper nozzle with hardened steel insert
Huh, didn't know there were bi-metal nozzles fo this cheap too. Sounds like a trivial thing now but i really didn't follow news i guess.
Anyways i wonder why micro swiss's all steel nozzle and the bi-metal one cost almost the same. The latter sounds a lot harder to make.
>Why has nobody made an anodised aluminium nozzle yet?
Sounds like it would be one bed crash away from breaking.

>>2945432
Genuinely curious : what are you using your prints for? Chemistry equipment is the only thing that comes to mind in which such minor contamination might cause problems.

>>2945449
The main thing i am doing right now is making a aquarium filter for a tank with crustaceans where even a little copper can be fatal but not having to change out the nozzels all the time is nice too. I have had simple PLA's destroy brass nozzels. If i have to print slower because of the thermal conductivity then so be it. I went through so many brass ones that it would have been more cost effective to use harder ones from the beginning.

>>2945393
meh, the supports didn't give me any trouble, the real problem is gonna be vapor smoothing, i don't think it will be kind on the corners of this thing

Is there a goat wash and cure build/setup/etc for resin?

I have the wash and cure set from elegoo but I'm sure there's got to be a more efficient method

>>2945485
the printing general in the toy board is better for your question. /diy/ is more FFF/FDM than resin like them.

>>2945528
*unlike them

Keeping an old factory running is so much easier with a 3D printer in the workshop.

>>2945342
>how many is it?
>the syllables in the word
>me dum can not count

I tried printing another one and the filament broke halfway through the first layer.

I want to print a rese cover to slide over this to protect from fall damage. It's Pic related that'll hit the ground and it will crack the glass flash bulb in front from shock. Now I'm thinking tpu.. but I've also got foaming tpu, so I'm thinking like a gradient temp where there's still some solid, but also slightly foamed then a bit more foamed to help cushion impact. Or is infill better with solid tpu better for that?

>>2945539
How do you plan on slicing it to be "some solid, but also slightly foamed then a bit more foamed" If its all within a layer you need really good temperature control for that.
Pic originally not related but if the cover is thick enough maybe "locked zag" would be good? Hard shell but allows the perimeter to sorta wobble and cushion still.

>>2945539
You're the one with the two kinds of tpu why don't you figure it out for yourself? I mean you have every thing you could possibly need to answer your own question, why are you soliciting neets who think ASA is going to kill you, most of whom have never printed tpu non of whom have ever printed foaming tpu.

>>2945539
I’d just do a solid 12mm puck out of 95A with a 7mm deep pocket to allow for the buttons and stuff, such that only the 2-3mm edge would be in contact. Then probably also a flange around the perimeter to locate it, and also a diamond-shaped flexure that locks into that square cavity. Even at 100% infill it will distribute the load to the corners, which should be able to handle any impact by dropping for a few metres. You only need lower infill or foaming if you want to slow down the impact deceleration, and if you care about that you should be covering the entire surroundings of the unit first.

What the fuck of bad luck have I have been hit with. Few days ago I had 7 failed gridfinity bins fucking fail that I bitched earlier in this thread, first time I even had a fail print in YEARS. I am anal about cleaning routine for 3d printer bed sheets. I go to clean my textured pei sheet with dawn dish soap and a scrubber like I have been doing for 3 years since I built the printer, never had corners lift never had prints pop off, even after cleaning the sheet and putting nozzle so close its scraping into the bed sheet so I can make sure first layer is squished in and being held BUT NOOOOOO 3rd time I had a motherfucker pop off the newly cleaned textured sheet. Fuck this I am putting bed adhesive idgaf.

Where's the best place to acquire AutoCAD Inventor? Games, anime, music, I know where to go, but actual programs, not so much.

>>2945616
time to buy a new bed sheet ?

>>2945485
ask /tg/

>>2945633

Its crazy to think textured pei wear out that quickly if its true, the pic of that bed is from my voron trident, that I built in 2022, and
>pic related

is new texture pei sheet I bought for the trident just over a year ago, due to the original one that came with it I fucked up when I was acting like an autistic spaz.

I even bought honeybadger brand since it was on sale and prints were popping off of it too, but since it was barely used I plan to use it again as backup

Even though I make it sound like I have prints failing constantly these are random spaced out events from 2022 to this year normally the prints stuck to the texture like white on rice, and never had to worry. I had some mixture of pvp k90, IPA, and water I applied to my bed for now.

Question for anyone that reads my comment and feels like answering, how can I reliable have debossed text in a print come out clean as I can? I sometimes have good results if I print it on the bed and firs layer is great, sometimes having itat the top but sometimes the top of the model has line gaps and some stuff I use to fill in the deboss gets in the line gaps. I dont have mmu setup but plan to just so I can do multicolor printing. Also is there any fonts that keep the letters clean and reliable thats easy on fdm

>>2945617
torrents

>decide to try cubic infill
>a glob gets deposited
>Toolhead hits it
>layer shifts
Never again.

>>2945746
how little amps are your steppers getting or how loose are your belts wtf?

>>2945749
I just tightened the belts this week as per manufacturer instructions. (Loosen screws, move plate / head along their axis 3 times, retighten screws) Don't know about the stepper motor.

The glop was pretty big and dried and it made a big klang sound.

>>2945031
get blender, import stl, edit mode, select hole, scale selection by some amount

it took my 7 tries to get the measurements right and an entire spool of filament but I finally designed and printed something I could have bought for 3 dollars from a hardware store haha

>>2944041
You are just retarded.
>>2942980
There are infinitely better options out there, pirate that shit.

>>2945768
>Manufacturer tells you to tighten the belt by loosening the belt

>Just got my shiny new centari carbon
>Trying to hunt down free cad software to use for it.
>Used to use onshape a lot in college and still have a working free version so leaning heavily into that

Good move? for being so easy to use I don't hear a peep about it here or anywhere when discussing cad software. Im told fusion 360 and solidworks has free versions, but I can't find shit beyond trials

>>2945768
thats not really a big blob. And if its in the infil it also has place to move around. Your belts are definitely slack and/or your steppers are not getting enough power.

Might even just be a shit printer too desu.

>>2945834
you have to get through the trial of fusion 360 and say no to buying to sign up for the limited 10 open file hobby version. it's a pain in the ass and they try to trick you into paying but just keep headbutting your way though and insist on the free version and it will keep working (unless like me you have windows 10 and they will no longer allow it to run after this year)

onshape is free for hobbyists. I've heard people swear by it but it seems like "iphone simple" and I couldn't really get my head around it since I could never get dimensions. if you know it keep using it, fusion360 has it's own paradigms and it's powerful but some shit is pretty fucked up.

solidworks IIRC you have to join an RC airplane club or something I haven't bothered to do it

>>2945772
my black flavored filament friend

the difference between a good and a cheap nozzle is night and day. Why am i even still seeing bare brass nozzels on the market.
My prints went from unavoidable stringing regardless of retraction to a practically clean tuning tower even at the lower levels.

>>2945904
I loowed my fan speed to 35% printed 1-2 cali-dragons to inspect stringing and overhang, and my rinters normally default to 45%

*shrugs* not belittling, anecdotes are just unreliable.

I haven't really kept up with the hobby for a few years. I still have an old first model Ender 3 piece of crap that's all out of tune and the cooling doesn't work and the firmware is some ancient crap I flashed and basically I can't be bothered to spend days trying to get it in working order. I've heard that even cheapo hobbyist modern printers "just work", don't need manual bed levelling, don't randomly crap out and fuck your print, etc. - is this true, and importantly, is this true for any printers that are not cloud-based or require internet? I've heard about bambu but I am not buying an always-online printer for any reason ever.

Is there a way to get orcaslicer to make a wipe tower that doesn't let go of the bed mid print?

>>2945918
you can set the footprint size of the tower and the brim size. you can also move the tower if that part of your sheet is compromised. worst case you can use gluestick on the tower area.

>>2945916
bambu is not always online. you can run them with the SD card like a caveman. otherwise yes almost any printer will be worlds better.

>>2945947
Huh neat, what are the bambu "subscription" features for then? Maybe I've just been a retard, I just heard they were online and botnet.
>otherwise yes almost any printer will be worlds better.
That's great to hear, I mostly gave up printing because I got tired of carefully levelling the bed then praying the first few layers work on every print or at least every couple of days, then praying the rest doesn't die and require restarting. Then I kept it for a while under the illusion that I'd fix it up and totally get it all tuned and fantastic, and now it's been like 7 years. I'm probably gonna scrap the old ender and look into picking up something new then and enjoy actually working printing.

>>2945916
Prusa Core One is looking decent, maybe still a few issues to iron out. The Sovol Mini looks great, the SV08 is not as nice looking but bigger and still good, and the Centauri Carbon seems to be the best value printer in existence, but remember these two are lower-end Chinese brands so expect better customer support from other people who bought the same printer, rather than from the manufacturer itself. Snapmaker just released a toolchanger printer that doesn’t cost $5000, and other manufacturers seem to be following suit. I’m waiting for Bondtech INDX.

>>2944360
Thanks, everything seemed to work and I finally got some filament and actually test printed something on the printer today. Nothing seems to be coming out the extruder. I screwed off the nozzle, it was a bit worn looking and it seemed to be clogged. The tip gets hot, don't know if it got up to temp, but do you think it only needs a replacement nozzle or could it be something else?