Thread 2948802

Last Thread: >>2942969
Al Fresco Printing Edition

>Your print failed? Go to:
www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.
DIY: reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg

>Where can I get things to print?
www.thingiverse.com/
thangs.com/
printables.com/
grabcad.com/
www.yeggi.com/
cults3d.com/
www.stlfinder.com/
google.com/
T*legr*m

>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQuery
Participation medal entries: PTC Creo, Solvespace
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup

>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl

Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
#374

Hopefully my snapmaker J1S doesn't burn my house down now that I'm feeding it from a GFCI breaker instead of the CAFCI that it kept tripping.

>>2948803
That's a good idea, but I'm still not sure about where the place the split. Would it be better to do it close to one of the brackets, through one of the vents where there's already not very much connecting the two sides, on the beam directly under the NUC?

Had this absolute insane lift on my abs print. Next time i will use normal support. Any other things i should try? Turn off part cooling?
Centauri carbon running orcaslicer 0.4 nossle with generic abs preset. Some random brand abs that usually prints fine that you can see on the left. About 34celsius in the chamber. 100c bed and 260c nozzle.

>>2948574
>zero safety data

What entity would be likely to do real peer reviewed, through research into what filaments give off which things and how bad that is for people/animals in a house and what can mitigate it and by how much?

And if the answer is nobody, the 3D printing community might want to collectively do the research ourselves and/or pay for it to be done. Not knowing isn't going to hurt anybody, and if people are going to look back at this and think about it in the same way as lead paint or asbestos or mercury, I'd rather start working on countermeasures now. I've got a big blower with a carbon filter and a hepa filter in the room I print in, but its not like its hooked up to them, it's just sort of sitting around on low speed.

>>2948815
If you need strength you'll want to cut it where there's the least empty space, so somewhere not right next to or on top of one of the big holes. I would go either in between one of the small slits or on the far right.

>>2948817
Can you heat the chamber any higher? If not with an internal heater, can you slip some heating element into it and power it externally? I'm assuming its an enclosed chamber. Another thing you might try with tree supports is to make the bases wider or give them brims or something.

>>2948821
Bentobox with noctua fans (I tried the arctic server fans and they are way too powerful and loud) and then the printer with another purifier in an enclosure or tent.
That should help with particles. It's alot easier to filter particles in a small enclosure than a larger room.

>let dried petg sit in a bag for two days
>it suddenly prints noticeably better
huh

>>2948805
Are you connecting your 3d printer to a circuit with lots of other stuff on it?

For the J1S on the web site I see:
>Rated Voltage: AC 100 V–240 V, 50 Hz/60 Hz
>Rated Current: 4.4 A Max.

This is pretty low.

>>2948815
make those stupid honeycomb walls solid and print it as shown, flanges down on an angle.

if you're going to insist it can't work without trying it and cut it up you might as well make a simpler one from scratch that slots together and orients each part for strength. I mean basically cut on the red line and make that piece seperate with a slot and have the tray tab into it. the whole design is weird like why triangles in that orientation? why is the back lip square if it's going to be printed as an overhang. why the hell the honeycomb sides? it's not stronger in that orientation and for a 3d print in a warm environment it's just dumb.

>>2948821
If it was dangerous don't you think there would be evidence instead of the same "oh god VOCs" fear mongering the paint companies use to sell $50 gallons to new moms?

And you act like the Romans didn't KNOW lead was dangerous, there has ALWAYS been evidence. I know that sounds like it supports your argument but the difference is there IS evidence lead is harmful.

In the last 5 years something over 8 million complete printers have shipped, that doesn't account for voron types, and yet there is no evidence that PLA is harmful? There are dudes who hang out with 50 printers in a storage unit running printfarms all day in addition to millions who run their printer on their desk or by their bed. Why the fuck do you think you're going to die if you don't put a class 6 containment and ventilation system on your printer? It's fucking STUPID as fuck and I wish you faggots would shut the fuck up about it.

>>2948914
I've measured the current draw on that circuit without the printer, there's no way it's overloaded.

>>2948918
maybe go back to house wiring 101

>>2948921
Please elaborate. I'm pretty sure a 20 amp breaker tripping at roughly 6 amps of load is not an over-load trip.

>>2948917
Nobody says you're going to die from it. You can breath India tier air pollution for years and not die. But it's not good for you.
You can live next to a busy road and feel fine. But the link between air pollution and all kinds of health issues is undeniable.

>>2948929
>Honestly, it is actually RARELY a wiring issue that causes AFCI breakers to nuisance trip, it is far more common for it to be an incompatibility with certain types of loads. Electronic power devices, like "inverters" cause electrical distortion that can often look like an arc signature to the AFCI circuit. it used to be that inverter loads were extremely rare in residential applications. But now to save energy, they are in all manner of appliances; refrigerators, microwaves, washers, dishwashers, dryers vacuums etc. etc. As time has gone on, the AFCI mfrs have tweaked their algorithms and filtering to help with this, so if you have an OLDER CAFCI, (which is would be if labeled as Murray) it might help to get a new Siemens version.
the salient point being it's not the breaker tripping it's the circuit interrupt because of the type of appliance.

also measuring amps is an inaccurate measure of load as it fluctuates over time. at least I was taught the proper way is to compare watts of all appliances possibly causing load, essentially the housewife plugging in the vacuum method. but again it doesn't seem that's what is happening just that your conflating the causes.

>>2948937
>But it's not good for you.
[citation needed]

>>2948968
Okay, we're on the same page that this is a characteristic of the load issue rather than a magnitude of the load issue, and I'm not being pedantic enough because I'm referring to the thermo-magnetic circuit breaker and the CAFCI that are packaged together with a common reset handle as the same device.

What I'm worried about is the printer may genuinely have an internal arc fault from a loose crimp or something.

>>2948973
pick it up and shake it while doing various tasks (heating nozzle, heating bed, printing)

Are there any good resources/books/chapter of book that explain how to properly design fan blades/propeller?
>>2948817
I usually increase bed temp by 5-10 degrees when it happens. I've also seen some people printing parameter around the part to prevent wrapping.

>>2948978
>Are there any good resources/books/chapter of book that explain how to properly design fan blades/propeller?
no. went all the way through fluid dynamics ME310 and never once did we look at propellers.

Balance is more important than shape, you can just tilt flat planes and make blades to start with. curving the plane surface and flattening the curve as you go out (probably to provide rotational speed consistency, if it was strength from the distance house fans wouldn't also get bigger blades as the angle of attack lessened)

you aren't going to make a more efficient blade without advanced modeling and you also aren't going to go too wrong aping any existing cooling fan- just wear eye protection when you fire them up, grenading thin plastic is no joke.

>>2948817
different spot on the bed
raft

Anyone with a P1S tried modding their bed so it goes over 100 C? Been trying to print with ASA recently and it's turned into a warpy mess.

>>2949001
oh yeah and I've never had a problem with ASA

>>2948817
If you print horizontally long and narrow parts with warp prone filaments you're asking for trouble. Personally I'd reorient the print, but you can also make gargantuan brims, like 50mm wide, they should help with adhesion. In your case, since you have tree supports you can massively expand the first layer of the support, I can't recall the name of the setting right now, but it's easy to find in Orca. Of course ideally you want a hotter bed and chamber.

>trying to print ASA
>print is as big as the bed
numb.jpg

>>2948817
>pre drying a spool for 8 hours to get ready for an ABS print
>see this pic
what do you guys print as test objects? benchy?

how do I get rid of the marks/scratches that are left after removing supports? they look like deep white scratches

dusted off the printers doing some bed leveling passes

>>2949045
print plans??

>>2949056
none just wanted to see more hosts in my lan's nmap -sP scan

>>2948802 (OP)
My printer blew another fuse and soldering surface-mounts suck. So I'm looking at an infinity-Z printer. The ones with a belt for the bed and printing at 45 degrees, so it just keeps scooting over forever.

From what I've read, sticking to the bed is a constant problem because every layer needs to stick to the bed. It needs to niche slicer support. The belt WILL walk off the two drums, eventually. But getting them in sync is vital.

The CR-30 from Creality was kinda the original idea. Yeah, with the help of the busty Chinese chick. It is heavily discounted. $600 from $1000.... Wait, no, they're all sold out But everyone kinda agrees that it sucked.
There are chinese knockoffs, like "IdeaFormer IR3v2... which might even be better quality that Creality. It's not a high bar.

Are they just too niche and more trouble than they're worth?

>>2948817
Yeah, that's warping from the plastic cooling down. It shrinks a little as it cools. It's not a big deal until you have long stretches of the stuff, because it accumulates. The supports are fine. A raft might help keep them from popping up.

But the real solution is the put a box over the printer and keep it warm enough that the warping is minimized. A little space-heater with a thermocouple is a good investment.

I never printed petg. How different is it from other co-polyesters like nGen? And how annoying are its water absorbing tendencies? Is it fine to leave a spool in the enclosure with the printer for a while if during printing the temps can rise to 40C and air humidity is very very low for a while?

>>2948817
Try a glue stick. It's the only way I've been able to get shit to stick. The only problem is I can't get it thin enough, might have to water it down somehoohw.

>>2949084
so the bambu brand gluestick is different from the purple elemers stuff, it goes on thinner and clear and doesn't wind up with permatexture that imprints into your bottoms. I'm not saying go buy bambu glue but there might be other non-school options out there that are better for printers.

I've also heard good stuff about hairspray. Never tried it myself.

>>2949022
I have never printed a test object.

>>2949064
One came up used locally and I just couldn't come up with a valid use case. The layers are 45º to the surface so even production volume prints come out weird looking from the layer lines.

>>2949080
I only ever had a problem with one roll that was probably bad from the factory. I've used it a fair amount in different colors both as base print and also as PLA support interface.

>>2948817
connect the brims with additional geometries and add another geometry as anchor on the far side.

>>2948817
use a draft shield and or manage your temperatures better

>after trying for nearly the entire weekend to design a kinesio tape cutter I finally give up and take the roll of tape into the office to use the laser cutter.
>Hey anon, do you know why the laser is on fire?
Fuck this. I'm grabbing the scissors.

a dud has repaired my printer and fixed almost all problems except that now i have a leaky hotend (i did not have dis problem b4), i now have to fix dis problem meaning changing the nozzle cleaning ect but i wanna use boron nitride paste on the nozzle threads again (faster heating and probably gain a little volumetric flow ect) the correct steps should be :

1. heat and remove nozzle,
2. cool down the hotend then put a new nozzle w a bit of the paste (in cold too), and wait for tomorrow or heat to 90-95ºC, as to not boil the still fresh paste
3. heat the nozzle very hot like 280ºC and do the final torque (needed due to metal expansion)

my plan is fine or not? not much info on the net

>>2949299
no just remove the nozzle cold and put the new one back cold
heat it tomorrow and check it's tight not tighten it more
if you don't understand this figure it out you're going to wreck your shit trying to fuse it like a goddammed monkey

Why yes, I use my 3D printer for art
>the art
>Captcha, great news for PA: TNDPA

>>2949371
is it really art if its just printing someone else's work? on a machine built by someone else?

cad your own dickaraurus rex

>>2949372
not him but it's not like it loses its art status only cause you didn't make it. Obviously you can say "i made this" if you just printed someone else's work, but it's still art nonetheless. A painting is still art even if you buy it off the actual artist

>>2949372
>is it really art if its just printing someone else's work?
it's art but no different from printing a painting on your desktop printer or buying from one of those metal print poster houses.

maybe a better question is a basic shape with infill + 0 top layers layers art?

Dear god, i am such a fucking retard. Trying to adjust the vref on my ender 3v2, I broke the potentiometer screw and it is now locked a ta toasty 1.5 (when it should be 0.9.

Do I just buy another 4.2.2/4.2.7 or do I get a bigtreetech equivalent? (Soldering at that small scale is out of my skill)

>>2949413
...Might be able to simply turn it with a needle-nose or suture clamp (super useful in general, btw).

>>2949441
AFAIK in that potentiometer desing, the screw itself (what has fallen in mine) is what makes contact with the resistance (black circle around it). Turning the inner thingy wouldnt do anything.

>>2949399
the basic shape isn't, its neat, but not art.
but arranging it like that makes it more art.

>>2949374
nah nah nah man, the dickosaurus IS art, but him laying any claim to the art is like if i (2d)printed out a copy of the mona lisa, and duct taped it to a wall and said i did art with my (2d) printer
it needs to be a banana for it to be art.

>>2949442
any good at resoldering surface mount components? otherwise, could be a good excuse to swap out the mainboard.

my printer finally got an acceptable print after I put the filament up against the dehumidifier overnight and redid all the supports, though there are rain spots on the build plate now that won't come off, and dirt all over the printer.

>>2949413
Solder some normal THT resistors in its place. You might not even need to desolder the existing trimpot. It’s also an option to solder wires to it and lead them to a more solidly mounted potentiometer.

>>2949474
>>2949569
I ended up ordering an skr e3 mini, which should be a straight replacement to these creality boards, and for the 27 bucks I managed to order it its a no brainer.

Soldering those tiny pads, even for just wires going to external, bigger pots... Is sadly out of my skill level

How would a PEI sheet hold up to acetone or white spirits or something? I tried using PVA glue as I've been getting a lot of warping on my prints recently with ABS, and it worked fine in holding the print in place and preventing it from warping, but now that I'm done with it I'd like to clean it from the PEI sheet. It's obviously cured, and water and isopropyl alcohol didn't seem to do sheet, so I'm willing to try the next strongest thing, but not sure if I'll damage the sheet in doing so.

>>2949371
>Time flies when you're a faggot.jpg

>>2949579
>PVA glue
hot water and elbow grease

>>2949579
PEI doesn't really like acetone.
You can try that, but it does mess up the surface a bit. If it's a one and done thing then you can go for it but don't do it often.
Given that we're talking PVA I'd leave it overnight in water first. Leave the acetone as last resort.

>>2949413
>>2949576
I've broken similar pots a couple of times and always managed to force push the slider contact back on it's shaft and rivet it back with a small philips screwdriver in the shaft hole

>>2948817
put tape over the gap on the centauri carbons door. its what i did and its stopped the little breeze going in the printer.

>>2949579
just use iso to get the glue gooey then hot water and dish soap it.

>>2949697
>gap on the centauri carbons door
what kind of fucktarded enclosure has a door gap? god damn I was going to suggest a draft but then I'm like "he's not stupid enough to leave the door open it couldn't be that"

>>2949700
more glue also gets the glue gooey

hopefully there are some /3/ chads here, how do I make this solid in blender? I just want to merge the geometry so there are no internal planes without making new geometry apart from the necessary faces.

>>2949705
>more glue also gets the glue gooey
Depends on the glue. Some kinds of PVA are water-based but cure waterproof.

>>2949709
Can you extrude the faces and then trim the overlap?

I got my first printer last week but I haven't been brave enough to print anything yet as everything seems so intimidating. I found a cool frame for trading cards but the orientation doesn't make sense as one is standing and one is flat and idk how well it would work or even it it will work at all

>>2949781
sometimes you have to rotate things
keep the direction of the layer lines in mind too if it's anything meant to support weight or be sturdy

>>2949709
select all the internal faces, delete faces
select the edge loop then fill

>>2949781
limewire.com/?referrer=pq7i8xx7p2

do standing one no support 120% scale

Got this threatening mail from boo, are you bros ready for the latest spyware update?

>>2949818
I'll take it if it'll allow me to crank the bed temp up high enough that I can print with ASA comfortably. My prints are fucked and they're just wasting my time right now.

>>2949820
>he didn't x1c

I saw a H2D in action today. Not gonna lie, compared to my chink klipper bedslinger it makes 3D printing look like it was always meant to be, but then again the H2D is ten times more expensive than my piece of shit which got usable only after installing a very expensive linear rails kit.

>>2949822
Yeah, I made a mistake and fell for the P1S meme. It's fine when it's small shit. It's just anything that's taking up a big enough foot space just starts warping if you even look at it funny.

>>2949818
anouncement for a patch
i hate how everything is a smartphone now, gotta fuel that hype train

>>2949868
>the P1S meme
That it's an open frame printer not suited to warp-prone materials?

>>2949871
That's the P1P. The P1S just doesn't get to high enough temperatures

Whats wrong with the p1s?

>>2949875
Has Bambu published a rationale to their letter/number naming scheme?

>>2949875
Then shove a chamber heater in there.

Headlight bracket 99% done. Just need to figure out if I can reinforce the geometry better. Original headlight cradle was stamped UP-GF so I wonder if I should use a more rigid filament than ABS-CF. Also debating whether I should use ASA-CF instead but it doesn't get direct sunlight.

>>2949892
ASA would probably be fine, I'd be worried about heat- hot sun and the engine, you shut it off in a parking lot and it glasses and gives you the droopy eye headlight. also strength depends on if your attachments go through it and the orientation, just remember solid isn't stronger. I'd put a gusset on that lower foot curve personally the rest is probably fine.

>>2949901
This is a bracket for the headlight projector, fully enclosed by the headlight housing and has parts internally blocking a lot of the bracket from direct sunlight. Shouldn't get above 80c as far as I can tell.

Should I just go with the original angled loft instead of the tangent loft?

>>2948802 (OP)
I got a 3D printer last Christmas. Printed a couple of battery holders. A wire clip. That’s it.
Thing just sits there. Nothing worth a shit to print unless you’re into little figurines and toys.

>>2949910
sounds like a you problem

Anyone know what this mechanism might be called? Need something like this or similar, but the tolerance and overhangs are not treating me well. Basically im building a knob. A threaded bolt slides down inside the knob until the bolt head fits in its relief. This keeps the bolt from turning, but doesnt keep the bolt from moving up and down. Pic related is built into the knob. Once the bolt is in place the little plugged end is supposed to push and snap into place on top of the bolt sealing it in the knob. Tried doing a threaded plug but its not printing well.

>>2949793
>>2949812
This is the frame
thing:6772998
There's just so many settings I'm afraid to get wrong.

>>2949910
It’s more useful if you teach yourself cad

If you’re super super lazy and don’t want to learn cad you can just have ai make you models

>>2949930
Definitely. Its like buying a tool and not knowing how to use it. Also the 3d file libraries are pretty big now so you can find things from jigs to storage and tools. If you can't find anything to print then you arent looking hard enough.

>>2949938
Looking hard enough is the reason I'm not allowed on playgrounds anymore. You didn't have to point it out like the cops alleged that I did.

>>2949924
snap cap

it doesn't look like the pink tabs would bend and if they do they will be larger inside the blue radius than the blue blocks, which would hold them in if you could get them there in the first place. You've designed a catch-22, the pieces fit but they cannot go together.

>>2949928
printing the peg on the end is beyond stupid. also diamond pegs are superior in every way.

I feel like it would be easy to design without supports too. There isn't even a way to hang them if the comments are correct. Why the hell have a 3d printer if you're going to have to drill a hole?

anyway I also dont' know what you're scared of, fucking shit up is how you learn and the most you're going to do is waste your time on a stupid poorly designed frame.

Anyone know about getting custom color button from pic related?

One store has a couple different colors but one of them are what I want.

>https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832654862023.html

>>2949959
>custom color button from pic related?
custom color nut cap
>One store has a couple different colors but one of them are what I want.
but none of them are what I want.

>>2949955
Thanks for trying, but not exactly that. Im trying to figure out some method to plug the top of this knob. The top part of the hex bolt needs to be compressed. I was trying to do a push fit plug, but it seems like the overhangs are trouble. Have been trying to do threads too, but im having trouble with that also. Cant figure out a way to seal this up.

>>2949959
>>2949960

>>2949967
compressed how hard? maybe you should try a CAD program that doesn't worry about having cartoon shaders if you want to do threads.

otherwise you need some pressure on it which could be a lip and angle, some pins or something to hold it in place. angling your cylinder cut outwards and making a plug that bulges s.t. it both fits and once inserted holds itself in place might be an option (pic related). Or you could just add screws from the knob bottom edge into a hockey puck, just use glue, there are a ton of options, threads probably being the most useful.

>>2949973
Thanks for the help so far. I ended up finding this file which I think might do the trick. I think this open plastic washer basically threads into the gap. Pretty novel solution. Printing right now so will know how well it works in about an hour.

>>2949977
forgot to attach file lmao

>>2949910
Do you have any hobbies?

>>2949910
"i bought a mill and lathe, and after i put a hole in a box, and made a stick to go in the hole, it just sits there, nothing worth making unless you're into sticks and holes."

grow up and print out a fuck machine, OSR is a good starting point.

>>2949978
Reporting back in. This works.

>>2949886
The P is for poor, the S is for sealed. At least that's what I imagine was their idea behind an open printer.

>>2949973
Huh, I’m looking for a similar solution with my screwdriver handle from >>2947091. I need a captive top spinny bit, like on top of jeweller’s screwdrivers, but with a thrust-bearing in there. Tiny deep-groove radial bearings might work, and would naturally be captive, but for a ~15mm OD bearing to handle up to 500N of axial force seems to not be a robust design. Nobody makes angular contact bearings that small from what I can see. What I made has an M4 bolt loctited into a threaded insert with a washer and half a millimetre of clearance, but the resulting top palm-rest is both pretty loose and you can feel the bolthead spin underneath your hand. Tightening it up a bit and using some sort of cap might help, but I can’t help but feel there’s a more elegant solution. Also I want to use a larger magnet, fitting that in might require a redesign because my chosen magnet is wider than the screwdriver shaft.

Not really sure where to go from here.

>>2949978
actual piece?

>bought a P1S a month ago
>P2S announced
well fuck me sideways
what do you guys think the P2S will have? I'm guessing:
>heated chamber
>much better camera with visual spaghetti detection or similar print fucked up sensor
>upgraded extruded assy (the h2* series one) with hardened steel nozzle

>>2950026
oh yeah
>vortek compatibility
>upgraded touchscreen
uhhh
what else does the h2* and a1 have that the p/x series doesnt? also im thinking the x series is kinda redundant with the h series, maybe it'll get dropped

>>2949967
+ epoxy

>>2949969

Thanks anon, there was a few stores I messaged asking about what kind of plastic they are made out of see if I can dye myself some and either I get "plastic" or POM delrin, and I hope to find one company that makes them in delrin white, that seems to be the best shot at dying them using rit dye.

>>2950031
>asks what kind of plastic instead of do they make custom colors
this is why you'll never succeed idiot

>>2950037
I have though and the ones that do have MOQ of 1000-2000+

No need for the hateful attitude over something so trivial.

>>2950043
Would it be viable to print it in resin? What color do you want?

>>2950045
I have considered that and pcbway does 3d printing in various formats too, so I may look into that.

The color was purple, I was just wanting to dye it purple for this to match the polymaker purple print

>https://www.printables.com/model/1288759-ecas04-filament-inlet-for-voron-v02-0-v0-02

>>2950049
giving a shit about this is retarded
not knowing how to deal with it is more retarded

>>2950053
I hate your type of people use any method usually shit tier method like this to get what you want, thats even more retarded

>layered on paint that will flake off
shit tier

>plastic absorbs color dye wont wear out
Obviously superior method.

I can't do the obviously superior method then oh well not lowering my standards to that paint on shit, and you still having an attitude you fucking retard even after I was being considerate and didn't clap back on your childish behavior I swear people need to be slapped more often for their shit attitudes.

Fucking retard suggesting paint on and calls it good enough, gives me a fucking attitude when suggesting the most retarded solution.

lmao

>>2950056
>doesn't know what an alcohol marker is
>wants to use clothing dye on plastic
whatever bro keep struggling

>>2950058
What do you think clothing is made of?

>>2949983
I like cooking, and I have a drone I want to improve at flying. And I'm learning guitar.

>>2949910
>>2949911
>>2949930
>>2949983
>>2949987
I think I'm just going to give it to one of my (adult) sons.

It's a Flashforge Adventure 5M. Every day it sits there is another day it moves closer toward obsolescence.

>>2950072
print off a load of halloween themed fidget toys first, most of the kids trick or treating near me prefer a little pumpkin flexi to a full sized marsbar.

>>2950024
yeah, and it works. Took a little bit of work to get the stay in place, but it worked.

>>2950058
you literally suggest alcohol marker, where it will either weaken the fucking plastic or as expected be non porous sit on top of the plastic when dry and easily be wiped away.

You then give me a fucking attitude because I reject your idea, you think I haven't looked into this? Also

>krink

is such a well known brand aimed towards graffiti artist that I am well aware of them when I was looking at different diy solutions on mops people made and making your own ink.


>whatever bro keep struggling

THE AUDACITY TO SAY THIS WHEN YOUR SUGGESTIONS WOULD HAVE ME STRUGGLING, HOW DO YOU SLEEP AT NIGHT FLAUNTING YOUR IGNORANCE.

Like holy fuck I want to slap your retarded ass for giving me an attitude for no reason.

>keep struggling

God fuck off.

>>2950027
The P and X printers fit on my shelves. The H series does not.

Just saw a youtube comment from a year ago where someone said that the gold rush of 3d printing business is over. You can no longer make any real money selling models from thingiverse.

While I partly believe this to be true, have we exceeded that in the past year? Seems like a lot more people have 3d printers now that collect dust or just print absolute slop.

Im trying to grow my business and im a little worried other people might eventually catch on and start creating functional products, but on the other hand, I know how much work it took to get to the point im at.

>>2950136
>Just saw a youtube comment from a year ago where someone said that the gold rush of 3d printing business is over
good

>You can no longer make any real money selling models from thingiverse
double good

good
build/design something actual original instead of clicking print and selling useless people useless shit

Am I wasting my time trying to edit an STL in fusion if I'm not giving my shekels for the prismatic conversion tool? This is a flat surface and the faces just won't combine when I delete them, this is as far as it gets until it starts throwing errors, I can't offset faces either. If I turn off the timeline I can merge them perfectly but then I can't sketch on it.

>>2950141
The slop certainly fulfills a pretty good purpose of bringing the price of materials down and allowing people to be comfortable with 3d printed products.

All my products are original and I refuse to put my models out into the wild. All functional too. Its pretty crazy though that there are so many talented modelers that are just making pure slop. They probably enjoy the process but damn some of this stuff is pure shit and modeled extremely well.

I've been debating between the Einstar and the Creality Raptor for months. I settled on the Raptor because I really wanted a laser scanner for the stuff I want to RE, but Creality's scanning software is serviceable but objectively worse. Just when I save up for it, and I've got the Raptor sitting in a cart, Shining 3D drops the Einstar 2 (lasers!) for roughly the price of the Raptor.

Last minute save by Shining.

>>2950145
I gave up on trying to convert stls for free in fusion. That pay wall is gay as fuck

I just redraw that shit ends up being faster

>>2950136
Nah it’s still alive. I still see 3-4 girls I went to high school with being stay at home moms posting stuff like “boss mom” and promoting their 3d printed crystal dragons for sale

>>2950188
I don't know much about 3D scanners but I got a Miraco Pro as a gift. Maybe I should try using it since I was wondering what other kinds of gadgets would be useful with my 3d printers anyways.

>>2950145
I either recreate from scratch in fusion360, edit in blender, or do modifications that I combine in orca slicer to output a new .stl (or even just print)

also turning off the timeline shouldn't keep you from sketching, I don't think you can just sketch on an stl face the way you can in a drawing, which just means construct a plane there and start tracing.

this is an in situ screw hole placed in the middle of an object that extends through the plate after slicing. I used the plane for the slice and the negative screw slot in the assembly. You have to be able to think about how to get things done the best way.

>>2950203
>I got a Miraco Pro as a gift
elaborate please. I'm not poor but nobody in my world is giving out $1500 scanners for birthdays.

>>2950206
Nerd friends who got me into 3D printing have all sorts of shit like this, laser engravers, cnc machines, etc. It was used, it's not like he just bought it and gave me it.

>>2950212
Man I need better friends. Or any friends at all. Who wants to join me in a doomed business venture after which we’ll never speak to each other again?

>>2948978
Yes, but can't think of any specifically.
You'd be looking at book categories such as naval architecture propulsion, air screw design, aerofoil sections, and the specific topic of interest is "propeller theory".
Design is very dependent on the use case i.e. operating conditions, fluid, temp, pressure, etc.
Internet Archive has a book from 1915 on the topic
https://ia800508.us.archive.org/26/items/airscrewsintrodu00riacrich/airscrewsintrodu00riacrich_bw.pdf
>>2948999
>no. went all the way through fluid dynamics ME310 and never once did we look at propellers.
That's because it's a totally different subject, noob. =;)

>>2950145
Upload the file and I'll try converting me on my commercial fusion. Is that one surface the only thing you need?

>>2950227
>it's a totally different subject
It's a specialty of the same subject, that being fluid dynamics.

>>2950240
Nope. Different subject.
It *involves* fluid dynamics. It also *involves* stress analysis engineering (and many other subjects depending on use case e.g. stator/rotor blade design, rotor craft control systems, etc).
...but with a more basic understanding it's reasonable why you'd believe that, since it's where you would first hear of it.

>>2950225
I get weekly meetings with HR and my boss telling me that “I’m not a team player”

And I have monthly meetings with HR where they inform me that telling my subordinates and colleagues that “they are fucking useless” isn’t appropriate work terminology and they understand that I’m trying to provide negative feedback/reinforcement of better behaviors

So I’ll probably be a perfect shitty friend

>>2950252
You don't think that other things are involved in other applications of fluid dynamics? As I said, it's a specialty of a more general field. What do you mean by those words if you disagree?

Should i close my 3d printing biz. Im tired of peoples shit. Yes you can buy s 3d printer and learn cad now fuck off.

>>2950280
Everyone thinks they know CAD , can’t name one actual program most of the time

Everyone thinks they know 3d printing because they saw a news article most can’t load filament

>>2950280
yes, you've hit the point of "but i could do this myself cheaper" that most other jobs have put up with forever.
ive worked in food service, computer repair, book repair, reupholstery, and software engieneering, and every single one of those jobs has had customers come in, balk at the price, try to do it themselves, then have to charge them twice as much to undo their bullshit mistakes and do it properly myself.

if you cant put up with that mindset, then yes, you should shut your business, you aren't strong enough to trade in the biz.

>>2949910
In my first year I printed a dozen different apertures, filters, spacers, and tool mounts for my telescope, wall hooks for hoodies and hats, a breast plate for my HL2 costume, and endless handstops, foregrips, and other accessories for my rifles. You are just a retard.

>>2950280
What specific shit are you getting? Are your models your own?

>>2950200
just what I needed, another daily blackpill

>>2950136
I intend to use mine to make functional items of my own design that I can sell on a squarespace shop. It's unscalable, because I'd need a print farm to make a salary, but the point of phase one is to see if I have the chops to survive in the space by design merits without investing a ton. If I can learn the product and market just the right amount, I can tool up.

>>2949967
>Cant figure out a way to seal this up.
just seal if bro

>>2950325
I started with one printer and by week two I needed another printer. Went through a dry spell where the printers only became useful for prototyping. Now I have 5 P1's. Again im back in another dry spell due to somewhat seasonal functional products. By the summer though I might need to add 2-4 more P1s. The business scales pretty well as long as theres demand and your printers are basically running 16+ hours per day all the time.

One printer is pretty manageable, but when you start getting closer to 10 printers its basically a part time job. 20+ and its a full time job. The amount of printing, packing, spool changes, inventory management etc cumulatively becomes a pretty big task. I think for the 2026 year im probably projected to make $30k gross off the 5P1s and 2a1 minis if I don't add anymore products and sales are consistent with what im doing now. Might push past that now that I have more reviews so it could snowball further. I basically need to double my business from here though to replace my salary which is pretty doable as long as I can create some new winning products. That is the hardest part about all of this though. When you create a product you usually have no idea if its going to be a dud, but you still have to make it to find out. Its very easy to waste dozens of hours and money designing a product that never gets a sale.

>>2950322
I'm going to guess it's
>why is this $8 I could make this myself for $2!

>>2950199
>>2950205
I ended up jank-ly getting what I wanted, I think I'm understanding it a bit more.
>>2950239
I appreciate it but I'm good for now.

>>2950342
I don't think I have ever had someone complain about price. I have had people give me 1 star reviews for some pretty petty shit though. One lady was bitching that I didn't sand a part down where the support material was. I sold this part for like $11 with free shipping and the area she wanted sanded was a mating surface so you would never see that side anyways. Just pure bitching. Could see her fat hand in the review photo too.

After that one star review I started taking things less personal. Funny enough it was close to my quitting point. My next one star review caused thousands of dollars of temporary damage and didn't hit as bad. Its just a fact of life that there are just some really petty fucking people that are nothing but trouble for everyone anywhere they go. Just the cost of doing business. Sometimes you just have to eat something and carry on. I get Jeets using tools I sell one time to finish their diy project and then returning the item, shit lost in the mail, etc etc. It sucks, but every once in a while you get someone thanking you for making something that fixes their problem, and even sometimes giving you new product ideas or modifications.

Hello, best place for buying 3D printer in India? Creality or Elegoo preferably. Thanks.

>>2950329
You had me run my numbers again. The amount of prints I'd need to make to hit salary wouldn't be impossible, but it isn't trivial. I'm looking at 5 printers minimum + getting up at weird hours to start prints, and I think I'd want a couple extra so when one breaks I'm not fucked.

But I'd rather not do the getting up at weird hours thing. Since I can thermoform the product, I should definitely go that way if the designs prove out.

>>2950375
>rather not do the getting up at weird hours thing
for me it's the shipping. I have experienced how stupid people are about their own addresses and collecting organizing and printing all those lables, picking orders, having a dedicated area to that, going to ups, fug, I'd rather pull my toenails out with pliers. I'd have to make so much per order to make shipping worth it that I don't think it's possible. Using $4 of packing supplies to pack a $12 order that costs $6 to ship is the stuff of nightmares for me.

I almost had a racket with high margin items but some middle manager stepped in and killed it. After that and a few other hot non-starters I'm totally over it and I just make stuff to amuse myself.

>>2950382
You know what helped me? Getting a job at Amazon for 1 quarter as a picker and a packer

All the little details they teach you and training you on packing shaved off like a minute per package but it adds up when you’re doing volume like a 3d printing business

Yeah you can’t hire a water spider and you don’t have $2 millon in boxes and dunnage laying around but copy as much as you can to expedite the process

I attempted to recreated what just happened to me.

I set a 42 hour print to print last night. I kept checking on it every 30 min and then went to bed. When I woke up, I woke up to a spaghetti monster attached to the nozzle my fan cage bent up, and the glass bed and 3d print attached to it about a food away from the printer on the glass table. All the metal clips I used to secure the glass bed were thrown in all kinds of directions. Has this ever happened to you? I want to say someone came and touched something but I dont think they would. How could the nozzle/fan cover knock over these prints?

>>2950409
>How could the nozzle/fan cover knock over these prints?
>print curls up
>print head runs into it
>bed not secured strongly enough to cause the motors to skip steps

>>2950409
I love to see people blindly listen ot other people and buy noctua fans, I just excitedly wait for the inevitable clogging.

>>2950414
I dont care, I'll run the risk. I hate the loud whining noise the stock fans make.

>>2950375
Well you would want more printers for prototyping too. Its also nice to have more printers to create excess inventory. There are some days where I get no sales and then the next day 20 sales and a day after that no sales. The big waves can fuck you up so its nice to have inventory on hand. You can also get around the weird printing hours by throwing more on a plate. Start that 4-6 hour print or even longer right before you go to sleep and the printer might only be idle for a little bit. Theres a few automated systems now, but those are dependent on the print design a lot of times.

>>2950382
Yeah the shipping is a pain. Every once in a while I get someone ordering two of something and don't have the right box. My products sell for about $12-15 and shipping materials are a $1 and the shipping is $6 and then amazon takes their cut too and then theres material cost which can sometimes be low but its not zero. I get cut up 100 times but theres good volume and I have to keep prices low to be competitive. I completely stole a product from someone else this way. They had ripped a product from thingiverse and made zero changes to it and were selling it for $25. I came in and made some changes and sold it for $12 and his business disappeared overnight and I basically tripled his sales.

>>2950389
Not a bad idea. One of the tricks I picked up was from this guy my friend knows who would take the free flat rate boxes from USPS and place them inside polymailers. I didn't end up doing this, but I have some small boxes that can't fit 4x6 labels so I put the label on the polymailer and shove the little box inside. This has probably saved me $2-3k on boxes and shipping so far. Right now though my system is pretty scattered so I have boxes downstairs and in my room. Too small to get organized, but If I grow it will definitely be beneficial to get a system set up for inventory management and keeping everything within arms reach. Costs me 10 minutes now, but if I grow?

Custom 3d printing sucks. Everyone is like nice 3d printer bros let me check out fusion 360 this weekend. A guy started nit picking about his insulin things not being clean enough and that was for like $10. Another one is making me wait for $150 and i dont feel like chasing him. I mean its not bad but im just not going to chase him.

>>2950287
exactly. firm, polite but ruthless when its time to tax their faggotry. my dad had a shop growing up and his shithead customers paid for our lifestyle. from people putting SBC's in a 240d Mercedes with a stock rear end ratio of probably 4.11, to I SAW THE MAN ON TV DO IT IN A HAFF OWER! and of course the "I burned down my own garage trying to weld while painting and I'm going to sue you for it, can you work on my truck?" bad ideas. TAKE NONE OF THEIR SHIT. AND TAX THEM

>>2950492
A full quarter per gram for the cheeky bastards

I got drunk and bought a Prusa XL last year. I hadn't used it in months so I just recalibrated it and I'm thinking of what to print. I wish it was enclosed like my Core One.

>>2949890
Am I better off using this, or modding my bed so it gets hotter? Or both? I'm assuming a chamber heater wouldn't help solve the problem of warping on the first layer, but a bed mod wouldn't help the problem of warping with anything past the first few layers. So ideally I should run both on the one machine?

Gentleman, I have not fired up my printer since ages, and my bambu p1p has firmware from before the "security update" fiasco or whatever it was (and is?).
Should I let it updoot, or I would brick my machine if I do that now? Im pretty out of the loop right now...

Tourist here. Never used a 3D printer so apologies for the basic question:
I sometimes see this guy on YouTube:
https://youtube.com/v/1oklRCmW1OU
And his prints always look like they're of a much higher quality than the prints I see other people make.
What is it that makes such a big difference? A better printer? better filament? A different more meticulous process?
Also, he sells vid related on Etsy for over $60, which seems very high to me. Is it justified by something I'm missing?

After restarting my printer my nozzle temp reads at 70c default. Everything else is normal at around 25c. Restarting it again doesnt fix it. Any thing I can do the try to fix it while I wait for a new thermistor to get here.

Convince me not to buy a Bambulabs H2C on release.

>>2950582
Theres 2 real options but its probably a combination of both. Hes probably using matte pla filament which looks better, but is vastly inferior in every way to normal filament other than it hides artifacts better. Or hes using soft lighting/ staging/ camera angles.
If hes selling things its definitely both because matte pla is usually cheaper (and inferior) and staging is common sense for selling things.

>>2950589
For all 7 nozzles and 2 ams you are looking at over 3k easy. Bondtech indx with 7 nozzles is gonna be around 600 so any printer you pair it with will come out cheaper. Prusa core one with like 9 nozzles will probably be 2k.

seriously what the fuck is wrong with blender, cannot even do a fucking boolean

what do you actually use your 3d printers for

>>2950582
>$60, which seems very high to me.
At first glance, that looks like a steal. Dozens of multi-color parts with embedded magnets, probably close to a kilogram of filament.
https://youtu.be/5koU93oZVC0

>>2950595
Every time i had problem with boolean it came down to mesh errors. I dont know your mesh, but you cant boolean from a non-solid.
You need to visually check the mesh too...
Edit mode, select, select all by trait, non manifold will show you shit edges.
Edit mode, Select all then Mesh, normals, recalculate outside will flip shit triangle orientation.

>>2950596
car parts, switches, knobs, gps holders, phone holder, xacto knife stand, glasses cases, glasses wipe/battery box, decorations, board game enhancements, ice tray stablizers, shower orginization, drawer orginization, pen cups, puppet mounts, hygene tools, keyboard parts, coins, whistles, beads, nameplates, flip sign, money clips, card cases, boxes, pill cases, lampshade, sculptures, dnd props, dnd minis, eye mesh for masks, sculptural mesh for impressions, shoe yankers, solar panel mount, branded cowbells, secretary nameplate, wall art, cutie (small orange) peelers and bottle openers and that's just off the top of my head.

>>2950517
I just have an ender 3, but my impression was that all warping is improved by a chamber heater. That the first layer is never what’s warping because it should already be past it’s glass transition temp, but rather the stuff above it contracting that pulls the first layer loose. Though now that I look it up, ABS has a glass transition temp of 105C, ASA at 100C, so getting up to that would likely help. Are you able to use starting g-code to tell the printer to pause until the chamber temperature passes a threshold?

>>2950605
that's really helpful thanks. here's all the non-manifold edges. I don't understand how I cannot even do this simple ass model without fucking up the manifold edges and yet people blob and sculpt like blender can do no wrong.

>>2950590
>>2950599
I ser, thank you very much.

>>2950614
I don't believe the P1S has a thermometer for the chamber, so probably not. I imagine installing a chamber heater myself wouldn't connect it to the printer itself? It'd just act as a stand alone thing I turn on and off as needed?

>>2950643
>people blob and sculpt like blender can do no wrong
I think its just a lot of practice and trial and error until you know what works and what doesnt.
Sculpting is sort of easy too, because you start with a manifold sphere and deform it until it looks like your waifu or dragondildos or whatever. And most importantly if its for a 3D render or game asset, most of the time it doesnt matter if the mesh is fucked.

In your case you could try:
Edit mode, select one set of bad edges, mesh, clean up, merge by distance. This will merge close vertices if thats the problem. This might fuck up the shapes in some places so have a backup.
Edit mode, vertex select mode (right next to edit mode or shortcut for me: 1), turn on snapping (horseshoe), set vertex snapping, and drag the loose vertex (shortuct:G) until it snaps to the desired position. Then select both vertices and merge them (shortuct: M)
Or if you dont care about where it merges, select the two lose vertices what should be one and merge like before.

I can sort out 90% of my mesh problems in blender, what i have written works for me.
Lurk in 3DCG for better methods or ask them.

Oh my fucking god it happened again. I woke up to print across the fucking table.

It happened at the same exact layer too. I dont know whether its the motor or if its just that the right side is so loose that it can't lift itself past a certain point. This is my second print in over a year. The print was coming out so nice too.

Why aren't rotating hot end nozzles a common thing in 3d printers? With a single trichromatic (cyan, magenta, yellow) filament roll, you can print a ton of colors (yes, you wouldn't be able to adjust "light" and "dark" or "saturation", since you can't blend in black or white). The quality wouldn't be perfect but I think it'd be pretty damn good. If I wanted to print a green part, I just rotate my nozzle +45 degrees. I want to print red, I rotate +135, etc. You would be fucked for surfaces parallel to the bed I guess...

GCode can map angles to colors too, so the printer rotates the hot end to match whatever color that part of the print should be. Or if its not feasible to rotate the hot end like that (maybe when the filament is melted, it will not rotate in sync with the hotend since its a liquid in the hotend 'container'), what about rotate the filament before it enters the extruder? I can imagine trying to rotate the filament to a specified angle before entering the extruded would be really tricky but is it possible if the filament isn't too brittle? Does it support rotation if there's say, enough length between the spool and the extruder entrypoint?

>>2950596
printing trinkets for kids (Halloween is just around the corner)
making cosplay props for co-workers (they found out i had a largescale printer, and trade sewing and leatherworking trinkets for printed helmets and talismans)
repairing shit around home (most of my daily use items are 10+ years old and about 50% printed fixes)
making projects (built a custom one handed keypad with a joystick so a mate could brows the internet and play MMOs while cradling their newborn with one hand)
plant pots (i hand out a shit ton of succulents, because it feels like a waste to throw away perfectly good clippings)

and most commonly, parts for my printer, because i find it more enjoyable tinkering with the machine than i do just printing things, and sometimes i run out of projects, so i start making MMUs, canbus conversions, axis extensions, whatever i can find or design.

oh and occasionally industrial laser mounting points for destructive fire testing, a flamethrower handle and fixing post for same testing.

you know, normal stuff.

>>2950650
I'm in >>>/3/ too but people answer here more quickly. The root problem was I had mirrored without deleting half the sphere, so wound up editing on both sides. I cut it all up and flipped things then unioned the pieces and manually edited back in the connections (select, select, F)

I also upgraded to 4.4 and I find things are a lot easier to see and fix with sort of ghost panels in edit framework instead of just being wire mesh.

Thanks for the help it really was invaluable, now I have something to sculpt for variation.

>>2950660
Are you imagining that you can get coextruded filament to print a single visible color, which is selectable by altering the filament orientation? If so, that's not how it works.

>>2950653
YEETing the build plate is a new bar for /3dpg/ I think

>>2950660
>>2950664
not even the colored pencil version of this works (I have some with 4 colors)

>>2950662
would bro out with

>>2950664
I understood it wouldn't work once I tried to think about surfaces that are not completely perpendicular to the build surface. If you printed a cube, it would work fine for the sides of the cube, but not the top or bottom.

>>2950674
If you printed a cube, each side of the cube would be a different color. Look closely at those prints in the image.

>>2950677
>each side of the cube would be a different color
The original post I made was all about rotating the filament OR the hot end axially (along the length of the filament) to control those colors. Forgot a cube, imagine a triangular prism, aligned so that each "pie slice" of the co-extruded filament lines up. So 120 degrees per color, the filament "lines up" so that printing one face of the triangular prism is exactly one color. If you had an C/M/Y filament, one face would be C, one would be M, one would be Y. Now imagine you rotated the filament by 60 degrees. One face of the prism would be C+M=Blue/Violent, one face of the prism would be M+Y=Red, one face of the prism would be Y+C =Green.

>>2950683
Also if it wasn't clear, you could rotate the print head or filament sufficiently before putting down filament for each face to make each face the same color. Like I think it would be really janky but it would work. However, you would be fucked the second that the normal of your print surface wasn't perfectly parallel to the print bed.

>p2s getting an active heater
reeee
no upgrade kit for me

>>2950649
>It'd just act as a stand alone thing I turn on and off as needed?
Yes, ideally it has an adjustable thermostat so it acts to regulate the internal temperature.

>>2950683
Rotate the bed on a delta printer instead.

>>2950653
If it happened on the same layer it could be an issue with your model. I have had some models with gremlins in them.

I doubt anyone will know but

I bought a Creality K2 Plus (actually got it free by getting a chargeback through my bank) because the machine is broken, they went completely silent and wouldn't send a valid return shipping label. (apparently there are several people who have this same exact scenario)

I need a replacement X or Y motor, Creality is silent, There's no markings on the motor. The motor is a Servo motor not a regular stepper, so I can't just replace it with an off the shelf stepper. I need a compatible servo motor to replace the X/Y.

Does anyone know what servo motor it is?

FWIW, don't buy this POS K2 Plus

Any thoughts on "Wood"/PLA printing?
I've seen some that look decently like wood and others that are very, very bad.
Never used it but the rolls are kinda pricey desu

>>2950763
I have used Protopasta Walnut and it looks pretty good. It's expensive but the only one I have experience with.

>>2950717
>Yes, ideally it has an adjustable thermostat so it acts to regulate the internal temperature.
I'll look into it and see what's out there, and whether it's better to buy prebuilt or just whip something up myself. I think as >>2950614 said, the higher temperatures may be needed to prevent warping. And you wouldn't be able to do that with a stock P1S, you'd need to modify the bed to hit those temps. I believe anyway. Happy to be proven wrong if anyone else has experience with this rig.

>>2950660
At that point you might just have the filaments be melted and mixed in the hotend, but the problem is that to achieve this the hotend would have to increase significantly in size and weight to achieve good mixing, and I bet controlling the flow of three different filaments converging on a single chamber would be hell. At that point you're basically better off having a filament making machine working off pelletized base material, but you'd also need a mixer to ensure proper homogeneity, at which point congratulations, you've become a compounder and you've spent thousands in equipment.

>P2S with a fucking ams costs ~750 eurobux
Why did I early adopt? I bought my P1P for almost the same price... I keep fumbling down down down...

>>2950801
yeah was pretty livid at the price. i mean, good for the people who are going to buy it now but i bought a p1s+ams combo for more than the p2s+ams2 combo recently and i feel like absolute shit

>>2950801
>>2950820
see >>2950754
>I bought a Creality K2 Plus (actually got it free by getting a chargeback through my bank) because the machine is broken, they went completely silent and wouldn't send a valid return shipping label. (apparently there are several people who have this same exact scenario)

You think I should just get a P2S instead of fixing my K2 Plus? My wife wants a larger printer so I can make her Daft Punk helmets and other props.

>>2950822
>My wife wants a larger printer so I can make her Daft Punk helmets and other props
The P2S build volume is 25x25x25, whereas your K2s is 35x35x35. The bigger volume BambuLabs printer is the H2 series (S/D/C). So no you shouldn't go for the P2S if you want that size, go for the H2 series if you are looking at BambuLabs, and wait for the Black Friday sale (though if you are in the US its not clear whats happening with tarriffs wrt pricing)

>>2949399
Anything can be art.
This post is art.

>>2950822
Also since you say you have it for free essentially after the chargeback, maybe worth investing a bit of time to fix it, do you have a 3d printing specialist shop near you etc. Imagine the effort/parts cost you like $200-250, it'd be a total steal at that price

>>2948917
>If it was dangerous don't you think there would be evidence instead of the same "oh god VOCs"
We KNOW VOCs are harmful in various ways. In relatively low concentrations its probably mostly long term exposure that will get you if I had to guess, being that many are carcinogenic. No idea why you're talking about romans and lead. Your right but I don't see why your bringing it up.

VOC's. like lead, dont kill you instantly unless you have a MASSIVE dose. Nobody is worried about dying over even a few years of exposure. People are worried about reducing their life expectancy by a few years or more, or getting some non-lethal health issue eventually. And it's all probabilistic. Not everyone who gets the same exposure will get the same symptoms.

>If it was dangerous don't you think there would be evidence
Only if there had been through scientific studies performed over a long period of time, and there haven't been to my knowledge. You need something that is done over multiple decades with a very large sample size to get a feel for this kind of thing, and there haven't been enough people with printers for most of the time they have been around to even get a sufficiently large sample size.

In short, the reason people are worried is because by the time we can be certain what the long term effects of unmitigated exposure are, people will have already had lots of long term unmitigated exposure. If it turns out it makes you 20% more likely to get some form of cancer, or lowers your life expectancy by 5 years, it will be too late to do anything by the time we know that. It's also possible that it doesn't have any serious effects, but why not play it safe and get an air scrubber with a carbon filter and a HEPPA filter just to be safe?

>>2950829
>VOC's. like lead

im gonna vent my shit outside just in case. i dont know why people think short term data on printer VOCs is really meaningful. they dont cut open your lungs to see what's happening. you can replace printer fumes with tobacco smoke and 5 years in people wont show meaningful symptoms

>>2950831
did you read the entire sentence?

>>2950752
I've had bad gcode that failed in the same place. I don't use raw gcode anymore but re-slicing usually fixed it.

>>2950653
it almost looks like you're printing by object instead of layer and your pathing plowed through you model. having a timelapse of this would be helpful if you can't figure it out.

>>2950754
photos of the motor? I mean it's out there, they didn't invent a servo motor so you just need to do the legwork to actually find the part.

>>2950822
x1c faggot don't skimp. fix and sell the k2 locally and you'll probably net out at $0

>>2950831
>>tfw you only make it 3 words into a sentence before you have to give up

>>2950763
It's expensive and it can be a real pain in the ass to print, but you can get some really cool looking prints with it.

>>2950836
Why the fuck would you even thing about buying X1C over P2S?

Is Qidi Tech Q2 a good printer for a beginner? Most of the reviews I have seen about it seem to focus more on the Qidi Box than the printer itself. I don't plan on getting the box since I don't see reason to go in so hard from the start.
I want a printer that prints well without too much tinkering, but I can do technical stuff if needed, and I want to be able to print some more technical filaments like ASA and PA. My printing will probably be more focused on useful items instead of toys and trinkets.
From what I read so far my best choices would be either the Q2 or H2S from Bambu. Q2 is about 1/3 of the price of H2S so I'm leaning to that way pretty heavily. I know H2S has larger build area, but I don't think that alone would be worth the price difference for me.

>>2950763
yeah I did NOT get those kind of results. it's tan filament with a burning wood smell while printing. I tried staining, overheating (burning color), small pieces, big pieces, and everything else and it was never really more than tan filament with a smell for me.

>>2950849
because I thought it was the P1S obviously

>>2950850
>we have a bambu at home
the Q2 looks nice for $500

okay kids I am thinking it's time for an outside camera so I can check on the spools and see tangles. is there a good network camera to add to an x1c or just a plug and play that's cheap to put next to it?

Do I go with the Elegoo CC or spend a bit more for the P2S? I feel like Elegoo machines are really hit or miss

>>2950824
Yeah, That's what I thought. Thanks anon. I am thinking about just selling the K2plus as is for like 500 bucks and use that toward a Bamboo H2S.

>>2950827
Interesting idea. I'll look for someone. I mean I've pretty handy and I've built my own 3d printer and CNC machine and have made custom PCBs so I know my way around, it's just finding the actual motor is really hard. Fucking Creality won't respond anymore either, so annoying. They have like every part BUT the fucking servo motors too.

>>2950836
What you have pictured is just a stepper (no positional feedback), the K2 Plus has Servos (positional feedback) more specifically (closed-loop step-servo motors). I've already tried a raw stepper and it throws a fuck ton of errors. I can't seem to find a tiny nema 17 that looks like the one in the machine. Someone on plebbit took a picture of the Y axis motor and I circled the connections, it's got significantly more wires on it than a standard stepper motor, I just can't seem to find it.

this is what i call The Extreme Twizzler Twirler, a 3D printed hub that allows me to attach candy to my grinder and test its ability to handle high rpm.

Anyone have any idea what the P2S is going to be priced? Im thinking about picking up another printer soon and im not sure if I should get a P2S or see if they knock the price down on a P1S to clear inventory maybe. If the P2S is $100-200 more than a P1S are the updated features even worth it? From what I have seen theres the hot swap nozzles which are nice, but I almost never do nozzle changes. The better drive motor and drive gear which could probably prevent the occasional clog, the chamber cooling which doesn't really seem like it would do anything for me, and a touch screen which is pretty nice.

>>2950887
Don't know anything about specs and features and stuff, but it's currently 519€ for just the printer, 749€ for the combo on Bambu's store here in EU.
Meanwhile the P1S is on sale for 499€ down from 749€, combo is 699€ down from 999€.
If you're US maybe you can extrapolate the price and add like 20-30% because of tariffs.

>>2950892
Theres a coupon on the P1S right now and just 1:1 from euro to USD its about a $200 difference. Thats before tariffs.

>>2950894
>before tariffs
>>2950892
>20-30% because of tariffs

FDM printer fumes really do cause brain damage

>>2950881
>>2950881
what does being slapped in the face by a twizzler rotating at 500rpm feel like

Has anyone built a Voron? I'm thinking about buying the Formlabs 0.2 kit off Aliexpress.

>>2950934
Every Voron that exists was built by someone.

I've got a formlabs kit. Pay attention to how you run the wires in the cable chain so you don't flex your heater wires to death.

Ive been using prusaslicer for the couple of years. I am happy, but I would like a change. Which would you reccomend most, orcaslicer or superslicer? Or maybe another one (in the line of prusa- I tried cura for example and didnt like it much)

>>2950944
>Every Voron that exists was built by someone.
*kaboom*

>>2950959
Orca is the bleeding edge of FDM slicers. It take the best out of Bambu Studio and Prusa Slicer and builds on top of it with a lot of slicing features. Latest update was very interesting too.

>>2950959
I used cura for my mini-delta, then essentially switched to orca once I got my big boy printer. I haven't ever needed to try anything else.

multi-material for supports is a must in a slicer for me, beyond that I would evaluate how they default supports on difficult models.

cute cade

>>2948802 (OP)
can someone explain to me why i have so many problems with this reel of pla? I just used up all my petg and switched to a reel of pla i have and its just stringing constantly. I have to run the printer at like 40% speed and its pissing me off.

>>2950944
>>2950974
>Every printer that exists was built by someone.
>Every printer that doesnt exist was built by no one.

woah!

>>2950959
Why would you like a change? The answer may inform what to change to.

There's a line on my bed that I can't see but my PLA doesn't go good on it but a little more towards south if that makes sense so if I make a flat square it will have an indent on one side and outdent on the other. It's also shallower and thinner there. My camera isn't good enough to make it out

>>2950934
I'm not building or buying anything until there is a decent solution for dissolvable support interfaces. Either DIY or commercial. The Tridex was looking promising for a bit then it just stopped being developed.

I replaced the glass bed with a magnetic pei, releveled the bed, lossened the belts and retightened them, tightened down the right side z axis wheel to grip down harder and replaced the spool holder with a ball bearing one. Printing one item at a time and its inspiring confidence.

>>2951062
Sharpie marker on the toolhead with a solenoid actuator. Otherwise go for a tool-changer (wait for INDX) and load up PVB in one of your tools. Personally I’d like to go for a HevORT, but man the build for any printer is scary, especially since I don’t really have the ability to print dimensionally accurate ABS/ASA parts on my bedslinger. Maybe I should just buy an SV08 or Sovol Zero with INDX first, and mod it with a chamber heater.

Z too high or low?

>>2951085
Looks like poor bed adhesion caused multiple rounds of detachment. If the one at the top is the first layer, it might be too low. Something is definitely wrong with it.

>>2951086
Is that an open test file anyone can get?

>>2951062
I like my friends Prusa XL. It's apparently a shit machine and he hates it, but I feel like there is a good machine possibly in there somewhere.

Anyone ever print in nylon on a P1S? Im making some BMX bar ends, and rigidity isn't that necessary so glass and carbon filled blends don't seem necessary. They will probably tear up my nozzles too. I think I have heard that they print easier though.

How fucked am I with just printing regular black nylon bar ends?

>>2951064
check your axis's when the head is on that row, maybe a flat spot, or some signs of wear.

>>2951087
That's the first layer of a print. Any print that fills a solid area.

>check on print halfway through
>looks fine at a glance from a distance
>wait the diy filament dry box is leaning on a funny angle, and the lid is warped
>walk closer
>oh, there’s a filament jam because nothing is coming out of the nozzle
>the force on the filament roll was enough to pull it tightly against the lid of the filament drier
>that’s where the unshrouded heating element is
>take off lid and look inside
>smouldering ember where the cardboard spool touches the nichrome wire, kept glowing by the fan
>yikers, batman
>probably fix spool issue by repositioning teflon tube and adding more wax to the perimeter of the spool
>set off second print
>the 2/3rd finished print is usable enough so I keep it as is
>just enough filament for this second print thanks to the jam
I’m counting my luck today, could have been much worse. There is a thermal fuse in the box and a heat alarm in the garage, but the alarm wouldn’t go off with the garage door open, and by the time the fuse went off you could probably get a self-sustaining fire burning. I’m printing with the drier turned off now.

What’s the least-jam-prone method for pulling filament off its spool, for my next drier? Seems like filament can get pulled down into the corner of the windings where it gets stuck. I guess minimising rolling resistance helps, can this kind of jam still happen with a freely spinning spool?

Casually drawing training aid for guys I’m training at work to print…

Guy hyped about AI

Hey why are you doing that why not just have AI do it better?!

Sends me a file

Garbled fucking mess of an stl

Guy gloats about how much time he saved

Boss congratulates him saying “you just saved my best guy like an hour!”

> didn’t save me any time
> doesn’t take me an hour to draw these training aids
> at any other company I’m the fuckup….


I’m the only one in the office that knows how to run the Bambu printer or know cad so to them it’s all the same

Yes I literally work with idiots

They frequently fuck up their jobs, fail at it, basically you can count on them to fuck up pretty much everything and there is always a panic about something and a customer being unhappy

Kinda exhausting working with 60 iq fuckwits

>>2950318
>a breast plate for my HL2 costume
>You are just a retard.

You have an HL2 costume and you're calling ME a retard?
Have you ever even seen a real life vagina?

In orca why does a modifier lift the fucking print off the bed? The coordinate system is fucking garbage and you cannot really tell what is zeroed and my 0.07 lower modifier (for what fucking reason would that even happen?!) curbfucked an entire print as ofc nothing would stick and I can't even tell if the real object is zeroed now I just had to eyeball it. So fucking pissed

>>2950318
>>2951151
cglkdiy are not letters I'd fuck with, we don't need another school shooting. now go back to /lgbt/ and tell the troons about it.

>>2951122
>Kinda exhausting working with 60 iq fuckwits
seeing as how you're a warm 80 it's good you found a place to play smart

Looking for some opinions on this.
>Work wants to produce a part via 3D printing out of PA6-GF (nylon).
>Old printer is too slow for the throughput they want so they get a bambu X1C because they're kind of cheap.
>It runs basically constantly with it running day and overnight on an 8h and 13h batch print.
>150 total print hours in and the hot end fan (the one for heat break cooling) is dead.
Given the above situation was the fan maybe just faulty or was it being overworked and it's just going to keep happening if replaced?
Should I change the print to be something like 15 hours straight and let it rest a bit overnight? It's not a hard part to replace but having to do it every 150h is going to become annoying.

>>2951164
No those fans are rated for like 150000 hours. Id just get another fan and assume that one was faulty. There is something it could be but Im just going to assume youre retarded and this is you first printer.

We did it reddit!

How to fix weird line shifting

>>2951195
Belt driven z

>>2951164
Fans are meant to have much longer lifespans, but with significant chamber temperatures I imagine these lifespans could be diminished. Consider a CPAP mod, Biqu make one.

>>2951195
I still get that shit with oldham couplers on my Z nuts. Living the ender 3 life.

>>2950934
I built older revision of ldo voron 2.4 350x350 at work. The thing is a workhorse. A coworker switched the Z probe to tap which isn't great in my opinion and is very slow. I would either keep the default probe or go for carto/beacon. Overall I like voron a lot.
>>2951091
We also have prusa xl at work for larger stuff and printing with mixed materials. The whole thing feels like it was pushed out way too early and it still has problems but there were no alternatives at the time. I also hate it.
>>2951062
Decent solution as in dual extruder or similar? There is H2D and new ratrig in idex config.

>>2950934
i built a 350 2.4, pre revision2, its nice, rock solid platform for making it do what you need, so many modifications you can make to say, speed up your PLA printing with HUGE fans, sacrifice cooling to make your ABS print quicker by lightening the printhead, add more weight to the head, but reduce drag by swapping to a canbus toolhead and ditching the wire chains (which fray the wires over time), put a smug cat face on the toolhead because its the only way to see the remaining print time without needing to get the angle JUST right on the front panel.
Im currently on my third MMU though, too much choice, and none of them are quite what im looking for, pico mmu is my current project, since it seems closest.
downside is, you kind of HAVE to be able to tinker with it, because printed printer parts do wear out, and sag with age, and sometimes they just give up the ghost and snap after 3000 print hours because when your x axis probe triggers is slightly too late, meaning the mount is getting rammed a big too hard, cracking the entire B motor mount until it just falls out mid print, but because i built the machine i knew how to get to that part, glue it back, print the replacement, then swap it out.

>>2951091
>Prusa XL
meme machine for printing multicolor dragons.
Why anyone would spend that much on a machine that only does pla and petg is beyond me.

>>2951198
>hotend fan
>cpap
>x1c
>significant chamber temperatures

>>2951201
>>2951204
I like it because you can have multiple print heads with different nozzle sizes then multiple sizes for support material. So your desired filament could be infill at .8mm, inner wall at .4mm, outer wall at .2mm, with .4mm/.8mm support filaments.

I had a pretty complex part that need to be prototyped for dimensions and it was the only machine which could do the multi nozzle size trick with a different support material without pausing/nozzle swaps for multi sized nozzle. Basically I needed .8, .4, .2 in different parts of the surface and it had wicked overhangs that required support.

FWIW >>2951204 anon, the XL has a chamber which allows more material selection. But you're right it's largely a meme machine and far far too expensive.

I feel like someone could modify it to be a real workhorse but it's too expensive.

The indx by bondtech needs to come out, but I'm glad they are taking their time as I'd hate for yet another meme device.

>>2951087
use orca to make a build plate sized cube, unselect the UNIFORM SCALE box and set the Z to 0.2MM. then hit enter and you should have a test layer. I'm going through the same shit with a elegoo centauri carbon suddenly making the z height scaping the bed with the nozzle.

also watch a good z offset video that shows you how to check for proper z offset and where to put the values in our slicer.

>>2951248
you need to select scale first when you create the cube. sorry i forgot to put it in there first.

>>2951207
That's basically what we are using it for. On 2nd tool head we have 0.6 hardened nozzle for ESD filament that's used for the base of the print, then it switches to brass 0.4 to finish print using normal petg. At the time there was nothing else that could really do this.
>>2951204
I would never bug that thing just for myself but for company that price is basically nothing.

>>2951087
You can use this, just make sure to rotate the infill like the guide says.
https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

Reminder to get s dramel fir sanding

The first purge line was stuck to my new bed and I tried to scrape it off with my nail and succeeded in stabbing myself between the nail and nailbed with what should have been dull flimsy plastic. It hurt.

>>2951279
Get used to it. It'll happen again

>>2951279
Orange plastic razors are $10 for 100ct. I find them useful for a lot of other things besides being scrapers for the print bed and they're disposable. I highly recommend them.

>>2951279
Scrape it to the side so the plastic buckles instead of stabbing in.

>>2951096
ASA is easier. I printed nylon on a mini delta so P1S should be fine but I'd do ASA unless they fail.

>>2951339
I have prusa i3mk3s and prusa mini+s at home small farm and use a p1s to design and print jugs at work

Bambu has been zero maintenance…. Prints everytime no problem via WiFi

Never had a printer be that little maintenance

Only issues is people putting stuff on the glass enclosure because Inwork with literal idiots that throw trash everywhere

>>2951343
>not printing a riser top that has a non-level surface to discourage use as a table
NGMI

>>2951205
>significant chamber temperatures
nylon temps are under the threshold he was referring to

>>2951339
I don't think ASA is as abrasion resistant as nylon. A bar end is going to scrape the ground hundreds to thousands of times.

>>2951382
I don't think any plastic you can print is going to hold up noticeably better BECAUSE the bar end is going to scrape the ground a lot. 10% more abrasion resistance is negligible when compared with the pounding bar ends take. Might as well print 10 in a slightly easier plastic.

>>2951382
I’d definitely use some sort of TPU, likely even when compared to nylon. The harder stuff is pretty damn abrasion resistant. 95A should work, but that 72D nylon blend on Amazon might have preferable properties.

>>2951395
Plastic bar ends are basically disposable, but even an easier plastic probably makes it even more disposable. I think you might be right though with just using an easier plastic to work with. The bar ends are press fit though with a weird wedge system that might only work with nylon though as its a little more pliable I think.

>>2951401
Yeah maybe TPU could also be a good option. Im just looking at nylon because its basically industry standard, but thats likely due to cost and manufacturability plus supply chain. Not even really planning on selling them, but want a cool product I can gift to a bike shop that helped me out. Want something thats cheap, but with maybe some cool features and quality.

Just hopped on amazon and it looks like one of my best selling products has been stolen by the chinese. I think the seller account is like 1 month old. The product they copied already has 4 reviews all coming in on the exact same day from what look like fake accounts judging by their past reviews.

Amazon takes review manipulation very seriously, so I think these guys just spin up accounts and try to milk a couple thousand dollars before getting the account nuked. The next week they spin up another one with all the same products and another set of fake reviews. The listings all look better than mine too. Filled with a bunch of good looking AI slop to make the product seem legit.

>>2951408
The classic moderator staffing problem. You cannot out-moderate a critical mass of bad actors.

>>2951415
What if you rangeban China and India?

ended up just saying fuck it and getting an h2s, p2s seems cool but small print bed for that price in 2025 is some cuck shit
least the p1s is super cheap now I guess

>>2951201
The thing that sucks about tap is if you aren't running adaptive mesh and you're doing a 9x9 bed mesh for every print, especially when doing a calibration print that would just be a 2x1 mesh

>>2951415
You would think it wouldn't be so easy with the hoops you have to jump through. These fuckers were asking for so many legal documents from me over the span of months. I would pass one compliance check and then a month or two later they would smack me with another one. Just the fact of them being in China they should get even more hoops to jump through. I would even make them pay a deposit that they get back after a year.

>>2951380
He is responding to someone who is running an x1c with the door closed. This is not a high temp environment. He just simply did not read the post he was responding to.

wtf, I just checked amazon again and another product was stolen by these fucking Chinese. They made the product better and then threw a bunch of paid reviews at it. Now im going to have to take their model, make it better, and then undercut the fuck out of them. Fuck these guys.

>>2951446
Before switching to tap we would just use old whole bed mesh and do no calibration before the print apart from getting z.
With tap we switched to adaptive meshing before every print. At home I have eddy probe and that thing is probably the best solution for probing overall compared to any alternatives.

>>2951460
No fucking way. Found out that two people are stealing my product, and one of the people who stole my product has also stolen another one of my products.

How QoL is an enclosure + coreXY? The P1S combo is only like $100 more than the A1 combo, but I wonder if the A1 has better tech on account of being a newer printer. I don't plan on printing anything other than PLA, PETG, and TPU, and the room isn't drafty so the enclosure seems kinda eh in that regard.

>>2951488
If you are planning on printing TPU then don't go with bedslinger. Also why would you get P1S if P2S is a thing.

>>2951501
The next generation usually results in a price slash on the previous one (to clear out inventory). If the P1S does what you need, why spend more?

I thought I hated PLA, but no, I now realize that I hated my first ender 3

>>2951488
I only bought a Bambu for work because I wasn’t ever going to repair it for them

I bought myself prusas because I actually care about my own belongings


Enclosure is easily worth the $100 upgrade

I’ve had children visit when I lived with my fiancé that kept trying to touch the hot end or the sharp spring steel bed on the bed slinger

>>2951504
>If the P1S does what you need, why spend more?
support ends earlier, P2S baseline might be cheaper than P1s + upgrades. ex, if it has hardened extruder gears/hotend or other changes you can slowly adapt your P1S with you'll probably end up paying more for them.

Why is there no robust solution for an enclosed feeder that supports pushing ANY filament to an extruder? They all have issues, the AMS being the worst
>The filament is too hard, it hurts my gears, abloobloo
>The filament is too soft, it gets tangled up abloobloo

How fucking hard can this problem be to solve from a technical standpoint? God I wish we had pellets instead of spools...

>>2951538
sounds like a PEBKAC. you DO know there are pellet feed printers right? also why would 99% of the industry doing FDM want to pay a premium for something that can feed gold wire or whatever fucktarded thing you think you're solving?

>>2951541
m8 what?
Yeah but pellet feed printers aren't the consumer default. They are like 5-30k machines

>why would 99% of the industry doing FDM want to pay a premium for something that can feed gold wire or whatever fucktarded thing you think you're solving?
idg what you mean by gold wire. I'm just suggesting that the oob solutions for hobbyist tier fdm for material feeders kind of sucks ass. what multi material systems support
>soft filaments (tpu and friends)
>hard/abrasive filaments
without any issues?

>>2951523
>I’ve had children visit when I lived with my fiancé

>>2951544
>without any issues?
what issues? TPU needs direct feed, hard/abrasives need hard nozzles, both of which exist and run "lesser" filaments so idk what the fuck you're complaining about schitzo.

>>2949371
Based and cockpilled

Anyway, has anyone used airbrush to paint your prints? I want to get into anime resin kit painting and plan to practice first on own prints. I have couple questions like about experience with cheap chinese airbrushes and difference between brand ones, whether you can paint all kinds of usual filaments with acrylic paint or you need something else etc

>>2951552
>TPU needs direct feed, hard/abrasives need hard nozzles
...the entire point of my post was complaining that no existing feeders solve all of these issues. I want to load my filament into one feeder and not care about what type of filament it is. The feeder/printer should take care of the rest. They are getting their slowly (I think AMS2 supports harder filaments), but dont see any solutions for TPU.

i want to print TPU with my P1S directly from a polydryer dry box. There are some printable models that will let me mount the dry box to the top of the P1S and then I would remove the glass and directly feed the TPU. Is this really necessary (90A TPU)? Can I just put the polydryer box on the ground and feed it to the tube at the back?

>>2951563
I put mine in the old AMS tray which I printed a replacement for, just put it in next to the machine and feed to the tube with the AMS disconnected. Straight shot from the drybox should be fine.

>>2951556
AMS is for multi material. AMS doesn't work with TPU. you never said AMS. current AMS is fine with hard filament, at least in as much as it is with PLA because everything chews up the gray stack nipple without modification.

So again you have everything you want with an AMS out of the box and simply disconnecting the AMS and doing a direct feed for TPU. the problem with TPU isn't even the AMS it's retracting can't handle it and that's a software issue.

Again you've raised no points supporting your o.g. post. You could get a creality sprite pro, ruby nozzle and do everything EXCEPT multi-material.

the snapmaker U1 might even do that but I don't know why I'd waste time researching something for a retarded no-printer.

>>2951555
acrylics go fine on fdm and most resin, but you should give it a primer spray first
cheap airbrushes are NEVER worth the waste, just get a proper one with a compressor, yes it'll be more than $100 but you may actually get a working machine instead of wasting $50 on a cheap one that'll break or clog before you figure out how to use them.
ask the /tg/ 3dpg for painting tips.

>>2951556
the reason no hobby soluton exists is that the amount of bullshit needed to make a machine happily push soft spaghetti through low friction tubes is a totally different system than needed to push firm abrasive materials, since one needs near total constraint, while the other wears away anything it touches.

just get a mult hotend machine and commit one or two toolheads with their own extruder to abrasives and fold filaments respectively

>>2951555
you will never get rid of the layer lines so set your expectations low
airbrush only helps in certain techniques if you want to actually learn to paint minis get a

>>2951593
layer up learn to paint kit.

>>2951538
>Im too lazy to load filament.
God I hate how spoiled bambu retards are.
>I wish we had pellets instead of spools
They also have no idea how 3d printing works and are just shitting up the space. Pellet extruders cannot retract if you even know what that is. Im sure you just let bambu slicer set every parameter for you.

How difficult would it be to 3d print an adapter to picatinny? I can find this locally for 60 dollars. I want to put this pistol brace on a Mac daddy 2.0

>>2951538
Normal drier box with an Infinityflow-style buffer on it.

>>2951580
>you never said AMS
See:
>>2951538
>Why is there no robust solution for an enclosed feeder that supports pushing ANY filament to an extruder?
>They all have issues, the AMS being the worst
He’s talking about enclosed filament feeders, of which he considers the AMS to be one. Multiplexing doesn’t seem to be the point, rather I assume he wants them enclosed for moisture reasons.

As for retraction, some filament multiplexers like the ERCF use a buffer spool for rewinding retracted filament onto, which probably help for soft filaments. But it’s also a matter of having a minimally convoluted filament path, both in the multiplexer and in the printer. A buffer in the middle will help, so long as it doesn’t put undue stress on the filament with its spring.

>>2951592
This. INDX looks nice, but I suspect we’ll be better off having seperate and differently-designed extruders, filament storage, and filament buffers and feed-paths for flexible filaments as compared to abrasives. Though fibre-core filaments might be sufficiently less abrasive that they’re not an issue, I hope to see more such filaments.

>>2951650
what is this

hi 3dpg im trying to add a threaded through-hole to this duck. i basically boolean'd some models i found online together in blender, and picrelated is what i got. But when I import this geometry into bambustudio, it says my geometry is fucked up (it complains there are 'non manifold edges')

Is that because my geometry is nonsensical (the threaded hole is just a boolean; there's no "inside" of the duck with thickness or anything) or is there something I can do to trivially fix this? In my head I feel like the slicer shouldn't care if the inside of the model doesn't make sense and can model slice by slice if it just does an intersection with outer facing edges

>>2951639
>INDX looks nice, but I suspect
Tpu prints fine on any direct extruder. What era are you guys from. The bowden tubes only purpose is the prevent the filament from flailing around during a print. If you are haven't friction issues you can either get a 2.5mm id tube instead of the normal 2mm. Or go all the way and get a 4mm id tube.

>>2951654
TPU doesn’t print fine from the AMS, which is what the INDX is competing with. The original poster was specifically referring to printing flexible and brittle filaments from an enclosure. While wider bowdens are fine for pulling filament through, they don’t work when you have an AMS or ERCF or S1-style filament buffer pushing the filament towards the hot-end.

>>2951659
>TPU doesn’t print fine from the AMS
Which matters because?
It will print fine from the indx because it will always be loaded. This isnt an issue. MMUs purpose is to automate switching colors mid print. Not be a complete automated system for switching materials. When you figure out how to completely eliminate nozzle clogs you can patent it and sell it to bambu I guess.

This is a wild one and I already have a pretty competent printer but how feasible do you guys think itd be to build a reprap 3d printer using parts made off one of those super cheap aliexpress easythreed printers?

>>2951653
Slicers require solid models to work. They slice by checking what part of a given layer is solid or not.

>>2951666
Major RepRap projects these days often have enclosures with elevated temperatures, and typically call for ABS parts to take the heat. You're probably better off buying parts from someone with a good printer. Vorons have a service for this.

>>2951671
so is there no way to model what I want without modelling the entire thing as a "shell"? The slicer doesn't have a problem with a 'solid' that has 0 thickness (example, consider the duck without the threaded hole), so why is there a problem in my case?

Also you can also imagine how this would be printed, its not an 'impossible' shape right?

>>2951666
>I already have a pretty competent printer
That's the problem. I've taken apart and put back together my shit enders so many times I'm certain I could build a motion system out of literally sticks and grass fibers.

>>2951675
>so is there no way to model what I want without modelling the entire thing as a "shell"?
Depends on what you want to do. You might consider capping the hole and making the whole thing solid. But you might try selecting the interior surface and thickening it inward if you want a shell. What end result are you going for?

>consider the duck without the threaded hole
That would be an enclosed volume with a well-defined inside and outside. Even if it were nominally a surface model, it could easily be analyzed as a solid, since a "solid" model is basically a surface model with a well-defined inside that's stipulated as being solid. If a slicer can handle an enclosed surface model, it would be doing something like that.

>so why is there a problem in my case?
Because cutting a hole in a surface model means that there is no longer an inside and outside. There is no enclosed volume to identify as solid.

>its not an 'impossible' shape right?
Overhangs may be steep in spots, especially the top of domed areas if you don't want internal supports or infill. But that won't stop a slicer from generating paths.

>>2951682
>Because cutting a hole in a surface model means that there is no longer an inside and outside. There is no enclosed volume to identify as solid.
This explanation helped a lot, thanks. I think I will try printing with a 'complete' surface and then cutting out the bit I dont want

I'm thinking of printing something like this so I can stick my dryer next to my printer, but I'm not sure if it'll hold the weight well. How would I be orienting it so it's able to support the load well without separating? Or warping? ASA/ABS? PETG would warp if you're printing at temperatures for ABS/ASA yeah?

>>2950754
>FWIW, don't buy this POS K2 Plus
Creality K series in general seems pointless now that enclosed bambu CoreXY printers cost around the same.

Generating junk in the name of xbox 360.

>>2951700
Well they’re probably going to release a proper toolchanger in the K2 platform before Bambu do, so it will probably be better for multimaterial than Bambu’s upcoming nozzle-changer, and with a larger build area than the Snapmaker. I wonder what other toolchangers will be coming out soon, one from Qidi would probably be more reliable for higher temperature filaments as they’ve been doing heated chambers longer than most.

>>2951650
What the hell is that supposed to mean

>>2951590
>ask the /tg/ 3dpg for painting tips
That's what I needed. I wasn't sure what board I'd find something about painting figs.
>yes it'll be more than $100 but you may actually get a working machine instead of wasting $50 on a cheap one that'll break or clog before you figure out how to use them
Chinese 180 series under different brands come for like 20$.
Besides I figured out it'd be decent idea to have 2 airbrushes anyway. Imagine you finish painting with one color, have to flush cup, you use different color and then you either fucked up or you just want to fix something using previous color and you have to flush cup and brush again. Or for different type of paint that is more likely to clog airbrush.
>airbrush only helps in certain techniques if you want to actually learn to paint minis
I'm not interested in minis. Minis are apparently like ~3cm tall. At that size I imagine you'd use airbrush only for primer or to cover most fig in one color, like some fully armored one, and then use normal brushes for details.
Anime resin kits are much bigger, ranging from like 16-25cm tall, and come in parts which are supposed to be in one color. Pic related. For stuff like this airbrush is perfect and can paint most of it, leaving you only few small details to paint with regular brush.


>>2951593
That's why I plan to make thicker walls and polish them with sandpaper. I've read a bunch about this hobby and people have to finish garage kits anyway before painting them.

>>2951832
why not plan for ABS smoothing? why not just plan resin? honestly fdm printing is good for anything but the MC, and even then you can get some amazing quality if you downsize the nozzle. I'll always take actual goliath with maul figure over smooth substitute figure.

whats the softest thing u've printed

>>2951859
the cap for my rice jar

>>2951864
I think anon was asking about materials.

>>2951844
>why not plan for ABS smoothing?
Tell me more
>why not just plan resin?
Because I don't have separate room I could stink up with it.
>if you downsize the nozzle
I'll be buying 0,2 and hardened 0,4 anyway as I want to print both more detailed stuff and use those fancy and weird filaments like glowing one to print glowniggers.

>>2951883
you buy abs that isn't hatchbox and put it in an acetone vapor and it melts the print. you pay detail for smoothness. research your filament, not all ABS smooth easily.

>>2951885
Detail is important though so I'd rather sit with nailfile and remove layers myself.

>>2951844
honestly you could make a yellow blob man that would be pretty cool

>>2951622
I went to the gun store and it was on clearance for 45 dollars if I remember correctly? Pic related is my thought process. I would take the angle adjustment picatinny adapter and modify it to be able to mate with this brace?

Its for a mac daddy 2.0. Ideally the brace would swing to the left not to the right but this deal is very good and I wouldnt mind having to deploy the brace every single time since its just a range toy. Another concern is that the bolt handle for the mac 11 model I bought is on the right side and it sticks out. I fear the brace may interfere with the shooting when folded or when attempting to fold due to the geometry.

If am able to fold this brace on the gun without interfering with the bolt handle then I will glue neodymium magnets to the gun and brace so that they stick to each other when folded. Another option would be to figure out how to use a spring hinge thing and integrate it into the adapter I would print bypassing the need for magnets. Thoughts?

I want to revive the 3D printer I built in 2017.

First step is getting a new PSU, since the one I used died a long time ago and I don't care to fix it.

Is this type of LED psu any better or worse than the wide rectangle ones, assuming the AMPZ are high enough?

>>2951062
Why not PVA filament? If it's because it gets spoiled in humidity you could cut just a small strip for just one print

hi i have a bambu printer and it came with a double-sided PEI plate. what additional plates should I get? I'm hoping to grab some from AliExpress for cheapish

New idea: we ban all bambuniggers.

>>2951996
How about you get a real printer

>>2951984
cryogrip is expensive but grips great even at lower bed temps

>>2951996
We love and respect bambu negroes for buying into a company that introduce many new features that were fantastic and caused the competition to enhance their own products at a cheap price point or die

>>2951934
>PVA
I don’t think he’s just talking about the filament itself, but rather the multiplexing and drying system as a whole. PVA filament is not only very hygroscopic, but also expensive and doesn’t adhere well to other filaments, causing print failures. PVB is a more promising filament I believe.

>>2952015
Yeah it looks like all printers are getting better as a result, with the exception of the open-source end of things. Lots of manufacturers are using closed Klipper forks, I just want to see the GPL enforced on one of these fuckers. Especially Bambu if they’re using Klipper-derived code, but the Centauri Carbon is pretty egregious in this regard too.

>have Sovol bedslinger
>spent too much time and effort into getting it printing reliably
>it's still very far from perfect but at least I don't have to babysit it anymore
>then see Bambu H2D
>the tards using it barely know shit about 3D printing
>they just send the file and the machine spits out a decent quality print regardless
>no effort required
I don't get the hate against Bambu, I think all the self-calibration features should be standard on any machine.

Does anyone know how to get this kind of infill? I assume this is gyroid. I noticed that setting the infill density changes the 'size' of the infil, in picrelated it looks like the size is quite small. I see this style in those pillow and shoe designs too, but I'm not sure how to replicate them (all I know is remove walls, set infill)

>>2952016
>the Centauri Carbon is pretty egregious in this regard too
I thought they caved and released all of their GPL'd stuff?

>>2951984
garolite is clutch for nylon/ASA
>>2952015
based

>>2951934
i found the little LED drivers like pic related tend to be the same basic internals, but long ways, the issue i have with them is i buy cheap ones for little projects, then end up using them for other projects, and run them close to max amps, and they NEVER hit their rating, my last 12v one was running a router, piNAS, and fan, which were drawing less than the rated 5 amps, but as soon as the nas fired up a second harddrive the entire thing browned out.
never had that issue with a meanwell clone.

>>2952024
The sole reason I won't buy a Bambu printer is that it's Chinese

sorry Xi

>>2952015
Like what? What new feature did they introduce beyond opening pandora's box of the stupidest consumer possible?

>>2952058
You're answering your own question.

>>2952051
Every printer is Chinese.

>>2952027
yeah it's gyroid 0 top 0 bottom 0 wall probably

this is 15% left and 5% right

>>2952027
yeah, it's gyroid 0 top 0 bottom 0 wall probably

this is 15% left and 5% right

>>2952084
Never tried unenclosed gyroid. Are there little unsupported bits that droop?

>>2952086
not in a brick but with an organic shape idk

TPU 98a (sunlu tpu silk) sucks
its just plastic that bends back kinda. what the fuck do i do with this shit? worse impulse buy ever

>>2952100
facebook market place it for half what you bought it for and forget about it. be sure to leave a bad review so other learn your mistake.

>>2952100
Silk, matte, all those texture filaments suck in general.
>What the fuck do i do with this shit?
Feet and door stops.
I turned a spool that needed constant drying into ball feet/end stops for 25x25x2 steel tubes and sold them to a local welder artist. At least i made my money back.

>>2952027
Oh yeah, they did release it. They added the GPLv3 licence file to it not 35 minutes ago, lmao.

>>2948802 (OP)
I'm gonna sand down and repaint these cupboard boards but I wonder if it would be possible to print new ones. Are PLA plastic strong enough hold up dishes?

>>2952162
pla would sag.
just sand the wood, theres no way the cost of the plastic would outweigh the time it takes for you to sand and paint.
except that looks like melamine, so its probably only a few mm of smooth material over chipboard, dont sand too deep.

>>2952100
>98A
Why didn't you research TPU hardness scale before buying it? 98 is really hard, standard is 95 and that's already hard IMO, only gets soft if you print with very thin walls and almost no infill.

>>2952162
PLA is strong enough, but suffers a lot from creep, so it will eventually sag significantly. Besides, 3D printing is cool and all, but using it for making a shelf is wasteful.

/ohm/ crossover: €0,50 part to repair a €400 main board of a €6000 machine. It's my first successful SMD repair job and I'm very happy about it. Thanks for reading my blog.

>>2952212
Story of 90% of all electronics repair.
Ignoring all the money saved it still feels good man.

>>2952218
Consider this is the second time I (try to) repair a 3D printer main board. Both times it was a power mosfet dying.

>>2952137
>matte sucks
you shut your whore mouth

>>2952162
no but a thin mat of infill might make a nice shelf liner. to be fair wood in that size wouldn't make a nice shelf either as it would be very heavy and also most likely warp.

you can also print organizational trays and or slide outs for organizing the space, but still supported by that shelf.

>>2952162
please do not print your furniture/fixtures. its a waste of time and money just go to home depot

I figured out why my printer clogs when I run out of filament. My heat sink has a 2mm hole on top for filament and no PTFE tube, but my heat-break has a 4mmx4mm void atop for a PTFE tube, and unless you can pull the old filament up and out, it gets stuck sideways in this void. So I added a tiny bit of tube in there, hopefully I never have this problem again. I feel retarded.

>>2952100
Impact resistance, UV resistance, wear resistance, and layer adhesion are the benefits of less flexible TPUs. But if it’s silk, I don’t know about those mechanical properties, especially layer adhesion.

You can’t really use TPU for flexibility under load, I attempted to use TPU springs for suspension, but even after I made the cutouts such that the geometry was sufficiently flexible, it creeped enough to lose its shape permanently after a few days under load. But for making a bracket that opens around a tube before closing again, it works great. Like for a bike light holder. A 95A hoop that’s 10x10mm in solid cross-section should be able to open up enough to let a 30mm tube in, for reference. Probably 25mm.

>>2952137
Matte isn’t that bad for material properties from what I’ve heard, I think it’s just more prone to clogging nozzles. End-caps for steel tubing are definitely a good TPU print.

>>2952239
>it creeps enough to loss its shape permanently after a few days under load
That's because we're stuck thinking about materials with Hooke's model, which is fine for metals, but polymers require a viscoelastic model to properly characterize. All polymers have a viscous component, but softer polymers have a more pronounced one, hence the creep.

>>2952230
You sound jealous.

>>2952239
Matte is extremely brittle compared to it's regular siblings and suffers from weaker layer bonding. There's a reason it's practically never used outside nerd blingblings.

>>2952264
>Matte is extremely brittle compared to it's regular siblings and suffers from weaker layer bonding.
what kind of shit tier filament are you using that you think this is true?

>>2952264
Where do I find such woman to wife her up? Do they 3D print?

My shits almost done. I got z banding but only ok the side picatinny rail it seems. But we will find out soon, it should finish printing tonight.

>>2952274
Oops I forgor the pic

>>2952270
I met my girlfriend on 4chan and we lived together for 4 years but I eventually got tired of her and dumped her. I did get her into 3d printing though

>>2952278
I want a 4chan gf. What boards and threads did you use?

>>2952279
/vp/

what orientation should I print these?

>>2952304
180º on that channel face at the top. also make it a solid plane, get rid of that bulge.

Is there a better way to section up a sphere of 280mm diameter for a comfortable fit on a 256x256mm bed? The faces are pretty good but the middle needs a long print (12+h) and tons of support and I haven't even added features yet. Not sure if maybe I should cut it up after designing the whole thing or do something like chop up the middle frame too so supports are minimized.

>>2952278
I met my waifu irl way back when. At the time we both were on cgl and my main board was /o/. I asked her if she used gaia online and she was like no. Then she got an email from gaia online while she was sitting on my bed.
A++ I hope you have clapped at my story.

>>2952332
Who's that shipping damage?

>>2952333
It's elegoo

After 73 hours it finished printing. I think im going to sand down the white foregrip and spray paint it gray.

Still need to test print the adapter tho

Everything came out perfect except for this top picatinny rail. This part touched the bed directly, everything else was supported by trees. Printed on an ender 3 v2. I think that corner I'd the bed is loose or the code fucked up because i put it to print on an ender 3 pro to fit the bed. Idk.

Luckily the upper has metal picatinny bolted on so I can just trim this part or saw it off completely. All my circles are elongated tho, dont know whats up with that.

>>2952266
How about you post some filament that doesn't display aforementioned issues? The only one i know that doesn't suck is Polyterra PLA and it's still very brittle compared to their regular lineup. With ABS i haven't even seen a single decent one yet.

>>2952377
both Bambu matte and 3dHojor matte are the best filaments I ever used. I always use matte if possible and it provides smooth solid prints. Pic related, it's 3DHojor matte black.

>>2952333
>>2952334
reminds me of when I got my x1c and the bottom of the AMS plastic was bowed out so bad it wouldn't sit flat on anything so I had to send pictures and explain the problem and those commie bastards sent me a replacement for free. MOtherfucking Bambu assholes I tell you.

>>2952368
>Printed on an ender 3 v2.
What a waste of time

>>2952407
A duplicitous trick by the RED Chinese bastards to undermine American hobbyist manufacturing

>>2952452
Elaborate

Feel pretty burned by Bambu desu. Dunno if I'm just being a karen, but basically:
>Buy AMS2 + P1S.
>Ask support if there's anything wrong with my order and if the AMS2 should work out the box after a friend mentioned the buffer. Support confirmed everything is fine and it should work.
>Doesn't come with a filament buffer or tubes to connect to AMS2, so, it's just a brick.
>Parts come as an 'upgrade it', so I thought it was an upgrade, and not 'need this to work' thing.
>Contact support and they tell me to 3D print a stick and shove it up my ass.
>P2S gets stealth launched.
>Sorry, you're 48 hours out of the range of the price match policy. :)

Just a miserable experience.

Has anyone done the resistor mod to the p1s/x1c. Im considering getting a p2s and doing that. I want a ppscf capable machine and the alternatives would be a q2/plus 4 or h2s. But I already have a large build area machine so I its hard to justify that the h2s is twice the cost of the p2s and the q2 doesn't seem as polished. Been holding off on a next gen machine for quite some time.

>>2952460
sorry anon but you might just be retarded. i went on bambus site and clicked on ams 2 and it says in red lettering that it does work on the ps1 with additional/optional accessories. I will say that you're right to be pissed about them jewing you with the p2s because apparently they did a big sale on the p1s a month or so before stealth dropping the p2s. i don't own any bambu products and never will btw, so im not shilling or defending them here

>>2952480
This is how it looked when I bought it. (I had to screenshot it to show support.)
The red text refers specifically to the drying function. It states it's compatible with the P1S multiple times.

At the bottom in black text it mentions that filament buffer, but it doesn't state that it's sold separately or anything.

I should have done more research, but I guess it took them at the "Compatible with P1 series" as being... I guess that it was compatible with P1 series.

what the fuck is this and how do I get rid of it?

>>2952488
That's some handsome arrows and question mark.

>>2952488
Do you have "ensure vertical shell thickness" on?

>>2952548
No it's greyed out, ostensibly because it refers to walls - however Detect narrow internal solid infill was right above it and I thought they might be linked, unchecking that didn't ungray the Internal bridge support thickness but it did get rid of the garbage. You did well.

Is your printer Sanctified?

>A1 combo for 350€ next week
Basically an A1 with a free AMS Lite, it'll be hard to pass on it.

hey 3dpg
im having bed adhesion issues all of a sudden... how do i diagnose this? trying to print petg. its been dried and ive printed stuff with it fine no issues. today nothing sticks. took out the plate, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and a clean paper towel.

>>2952624
Clean it with dish soap and water, then try again.

Why does this not look 20a?
The traces are wide as fuck but it doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. I'll try printing with this, but I think it will poof

>>2952624
Dry your filaments.

Pls pray to the bed adhesion gods I just started a 17h print with a pretty steep vertical before things join up

>>2952626
I did this, and then I tried printing a calibration cube. Looked totally fine and then when I went to get it off the plate it broke with a few layers adhered to the plate... so maybe the PETG settings are fucked? Its like the layers of the filament arent sticking to each other or anything at all. I'm using Sunlu PETG and it has a preset in the slicer

>>2952631
>its been dried
actively dried for 6 hours, and im printing from a closed ams with RH of 14%

>>2952636
prayn 4 u frind

>>2952636
>17h
>no oversize brim
only yourself to blame desu

>>2952645
DRY YOUR FUCKING FILAMENTS.

>>2952645
>actively dried for 6 hours
How long ago?

>>2951844
>That pic...
Did you let the little guy swim in acetone? kek

>>2952645
>14%

>get sick of having 200 different little breakout boards floating around my workspace
>can never find the right anti-static bag when i need it
>sharpie labels are wearing off
>decide to see whats online before i re-invent the wheel
>end up printing a gridfinity organizer box
>takes around 17 hours for all the bits across 3 different prints
>work really well
>decide to break down all my random tacklebox style organizers into the same gridfinity style.
>can fit 2 of the large parts on the printer at a time, go for a 12 hour overnight print
>works great.
>quickly print out a part for a friend, uses tree supports
>forget to swap setting back
>start another 12 hour print
>wake up
>it failed after 10 hours
>its still on layer 12, because for some fucking reason the auto tree supports for a large flat object are MILLIONS of tiny circles
>after 10 hours of tiny circle my printer literally wiggled its canbus cable free

FUCK

i should have just rerun the previous working gcode from mainsail, instead of slicing them again, with the tree supports it was going to take something like 22 hours, if it survived.

>>2952630
Tried it, when I print with my mini-printer the voltage goes from 23.7v to 21.67v, I thought it was bad, but then I tested the older psu I was using and the voltage falls from 24v straight (because it has that tiny potentiometer) to fucking 18.7v. How is this possible? This looks like total garbage but has a lower drop than the PSU which is heavier

>>2952656
2 days ago... surely petg will hold up for 2 days in an enclosed space with a bunch of fresh dessicant?

>>2952668
I've had PETG pick up enough moisture to ruin print quality in several hours. It's not as bad as nylon, but it's not all that much slower. If you've ever seen a moisture absorption curve for filament, most filaments absorb most of their capacity in the first day of exposure.

>>2952668
Also, "enclosed" is not the same thing as "pressure-tight" (IP 68 rating) which is what will actually prevent air flow.

>>2952671
>IP 68 rating
and now tell me which flavor of chink bothers rating their boxes.
At least for my polymaker boxes i can atest that they hold negative pressure

>>2952670
>>2952671
>>2952676
alright friendos, its going back in the polydryer for a few hours. also going to print with slightly higher temps and decently higher bed temps 65->80 that i found in an online profile

>>2952677
also ive read that repeatedly drying your filament can fuck it up too is that true

>>2952661
hang on.
Has anyone figured out a way to print inside of a gel, like that spinning mayonaise trick?

>>2952677
i had better results with drying the silica beads in a cardbord box with a hairdryer seperately, i also stuff additional bags in the spools core
>>2952678
maybe if the chinks laced it with volatile plasticizers

>>2952676
https://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/storage-totes-bins/storage-totes/ezystorage-waterproof-clear-gasket-tote/fba34060/p-1642874266522717-c-12667.htm
I've had things stay dry in these for more than a year.

>>2952681
>i had better results with drying the silica beads in a cardbord box
>>2952681
Ah I meant the spool itself is going into the polydryer. I haven't tried using it to dry dessicant directly yet.

>>2952684
wish we had something like this canada

>>2952652
>>2952653
I suppose you're wondering how I got here....

okay baked a plate into the model, time for round two. also pls pray harder boys, please pray harder, we're up to 23.5h

Can someone recommend any up to date freecad videos? I just get wire not closed all the time and I'm about to microwave my hamster out of pure rage because of it.

>Want to move the printer to a shed
>Live in England
>Pretty much every day is 80+ humidity
>Temps get below 0 in winter
>Condensation, mold and dampness everywhere that isn't kept warm.

Not gonna happen is it?

>>2952670
it depends on the roll. i have a roll thats been open for at least a year that im printing with now and its fine.other rolls of the same color and brand would pop and spit a little right out of the vac bag.

>>2952704
>Want to move the printer to a shed
fucking why tho?

>>2952705
nta but I'm starting to think the twofer roll deal I got wasn't such a good idea

>>2952712
Loud

>>2952645
Some old filament is just shit. No matter how much I dry it, I’ve got an old roll of translucent PETG that doesn’t stick for shit. On the other hand, even ancient wet TPU seems to dry and print just fine.

>>2952679
At a 3D printing expo this year some company had a printer that was injecting silicone resin into a tank full of a viscous gel via a moving nozzle. No supports needed. I bet it would work with other thermoset resins, and maybe even thermoplastics if you could pick a (preheated?) gel that could handle the heat.

>>2952704
Enclosed printer (ideally with chamber heater), enclosed filament dry box, and stick on some insulation.

this is fail three. finna kill this guy's hamster >>2952697

>>2952720
>was injecting silicone resin into a tank
that shit screamed 3d print your pocket pussy

>>2952725
okay that's 3 plates and seven prints including a failed calibration cube. this shit is going back.

you guys prayed wrong

>>2952762
hang on anon, you're first prints ever were some infill only furry foot thing?
i dont think its the machines fault, figure out a calibration cube before you try torture test your untested machine, i mean god-damn.

>>2952729
seems expensive when you can just print a mold and use 2 part silicone

>>2952762
Have you run a full calibration suite before printing anything? Have you managed to print a uniform first layer before printing anything? You can't run without learning to walk, goddammit.

>>2952791
What if you don't want to print a mold
What if you want to print something which is topologically impossible to print using a mold

>>2952790
No someone else posted that, I merely recognized it. This is a 300mm toodles mask.

>>2952813
It's a bambu son I've never run a calibration in my life except the one that failed. I went back with my matte black 3Dhojor instead of grey and we're cooking with smooth af printing again.

>>2952791
>anon has never seen a vagina

What would be the best material to print this using a print service? It's the bottom support for a pop-out cupholder, the part is basically unobtanium at this point. It should be both ridgid and strong to prevent the small supports from breaking, and handle temperatures of at least 90C (hot coffee).

>>2952898
Milled aluminum. But if you want a print, maybe PPA-CF.

>>2952898
do you have the design? I've had PETG in my vehicles for years and it survives Colorado sun except directly in the windshield where I have to use light colored ASA, but I still prototype in cheaper filament. It's an easy part although one or more pins might need to depress for install.

If you're really using a service go with the best ***-CF they offer. UV protection isn't really an issue since it's inside.

>>2952900
Thanks

>>2952901
Yes, I'm using a service as I don't actually own a printer.

>>2952830
a real life vagina isn't the size or scale of a phat assed goblin.
or the mouth of a piranha plant.
or a fairys entire torso.

are PTE plates consumables? ive been printing petg (im the guy that had adhesion probs in this thread) and when its successful i notice print shadows/streaks on the plate that don't go away with IPA. so i hella scrub the plate with dish soap and a dish sponge (rough side). works fine so far, removes everything. but im wondering if im not supposed to do it every time i print petg and see marks to prevent wearing the plate down

>>2952927
>PTE
What?

>>2952927
*PEI

>>2952929
only if you're a retard like me.

How do you print basically a small/mid sized block of ABS without the edges curling up? I have bed temp all the way up and a brim, but I think the part is just so dense that its wanting to start contracting about halfway through the print.

>>2952713
Overture brand? Thats usually what I grab on amazon because its kinda cheap. Its decent enough. Black and grey petg are the only 2 I have tested though

>>2952927
pei bonds really well to petg, so much so that it can tear off chunks of the plate, or permanently bond with it.
use some middleground, like gluestick, to let it release.

>>2952936
raft?

>>2952937
3dHojor of which I have 20+ rolls and has never before failed me. I double checked it said PLA on the side because it looked and failed like PETG on a PLA setting, I mean it looked greasy and before I've left PETG on PLA and it just won't stick in the exact same way. It was also the first time I bought a 2-pack.

>>2952932
that's not PEI

>>2952927
They shouldn't be. I never print PETG on PEI, it's difficult to remove and seemed to damage the plate so despite everyone here claiming it's fine I stopped doing it. Incidentally I have a "damaged" side, PETG residue where PLA won't stick. I might have to go at it with a scratch pad now and see if I can revive it.

>>2952791
he said unironically to the people using $1500 printers and $30 rolls of filament to print 5¢ plastic toys on a malaysian noodle exchange

>>2952945
>that's not PEI
That's a smooth sheet of PEI on a steel flex plate.
https://www.prusa3d.com/product/smooth-pei-print-sheet/

>I never print PETG on PEI
PETG goes great on textured PEI.

>>2952898
CF-nylon on one of those laser powder printers, probably. Should run you in the ballpark of $15 for a piece from the chinks, but if you don’t have the design perfect and need iterations, or otherwise want to make a whole bunch, it might be worth getting a printer, or at least contacting a local 3D printing guru.

>>2952927
I find textured PEI makes for shoddy adhesion for anything, including PETG and TPU, but it is a cheap build plate. I’ve heard there can be a lot of difference between powder-coated PEIs. Smooth PEI on the other hand is delicate and very sticky, avoid using with PETG and TPU. I’ve been using the carbon-fibre-patterned PET sheet, it works great for PETG, but sticks a bit too well for TPU as I started ripping little patches of the stuff off the middle.

im deepdiving into the /3dpg/ autism
i bought a "moisture proof" container for my spools, it can hold about 6. How do I manage humidity levels in the container with the common indicating silica gel beads? I was thinking each spool goes into a ziplock bag and I use one of picrelated in each spool. When the beads start to get saturated, I put the spool dessicant into a dryer. This seems like a lot of effort; I wonder if I'm being retarded

>>2952939
Its still not helping even with that.

>>2952957
>How do I manage humidity levels in the container with the common indicating silica gel beads?
You don't. The silica absorbs too much moisture to keep the air dry enough for filament maintenance well before the dye changes color. Put a cheap hygrometer in the container where it can be seen. Ziplock bags are thin plastic that's not all that moisture-proof. You could manage it with frequent desiccant changes, or you could get a better container like >>2952684. Those hold 4-5 1-kg spools.

>>2952958
70C heated chamber?

>>2952960
I am putting them in a moisture resistant container already, see picrelated. But its not as good as that silicone gasket one for sure.

>>2952958
try a draft shield if you dont have a chamber

>>2952961
The chamber is enclosed since its a P1S and the bed goes up to 100C I believe which is what I have it set at. Don't know if maybe I need some type of chamber heater? My garage is about 75f so theres not really any cold drafts going through.

>>2952945
I know what you mean by the greasiness . I like petg over pla even though its alot slower to print but I hate the greasiness of the petg.

My Ender 3's Z-axis screw has started occasionally squeaking really loudly.
What's the best way to lubricate it?

>>2952970
P1S doesn't have a heated chamber. So you have a couple options.
1. Buy a third party heater.
2. Crank the bed to 100C and aux fan on, let the chamber warm up for 30 minutes before you print.
3. Turn the fans off, print with the P1S covered in a towel or some insulation.

>>2953015
interesting, thank you.

It looks like pic related is pretty new. Pretty expensive though.

>>2953025
Look up Chitu H2, it's practically the same thing but cheaper. Can go up to 70C

>>2953026
Thank you, looking into it also.

I have read that new couplers can reduce Z-banding. Should I get both a spider coupler and an oldham coupler or is only getting one of them recommended, and if so, which one?

anyone else tried first-party refurbs?

>>2953025
>>2953026

It's also worthy of note that you can stick these in a drybox and use them as an active filament drier.

>>2953039
no experience with a refurb but i bought a sv05 direct from sovol and it worked pretty good out of the box.

>>2953046
lots of printer companies seem to be offering refurbs these days

anycubic and elegoo also sell some on their website

>>2953041
>you can stick these in a drybox and use them as an active filament drier.
The drybox would need ventilation in this case.

>>2953039
SV07 anon here. That price is good, but you may want to throw the same amount of money at it in linear rails, because POM wheels suck balls.

>>2953051
Could you dry filament inside the P1S then?

>>2952957
why not just put bulk dessicant in the bottom of the tub and put the spools in? individual bagging or other dumb shit is just making things needlessly complex.

thoughts on the crealty k2plus? I have an x1c already.

>>2953081
Its been awful quality up to k1 why will k2 be any different

>>2953081
There is no way that printer printed that not-pokeman.

>>2953067
Sure. That would be better than using just the bed to heat the chamber.

>>2953078
Silica gel beads are tiny and bouncy. If they're not contained, they can easily make a mess when handled.

>>2953089
>contained
>put them in the container
>contained
>put them in the container
>contained
>put them in the container
>contained
>put them in the container
>contained
>put them in the container
they aren't fucking styrofoam beads they're bigger than sand like what the fuck do you think is going to happen?

>>2953091
They need to be dried periodically. So, take them out of the drybox, put them in a dryer or oven, put them back. If they're loose, they can bounce out as they are poured or scooped. It's not an insurmountable problem, but it can be a nuisance, so some people elect to put the beads in small containers.

>>2952927
At this point, the only reason I use magigoo on my printers is to keep the plates from getting fucked up.
It works more as a release agent than anything else.

Are the filament switcher units capable of doing more than just multicolor, or is multimaterial a feature to multi effector printers?

>>2953102
You can do multi-material in a multiplexing nozzle with very long purges that fully remove the old material from the nozzle (which is what you do when you change materials for different prints), but this takes much more filament than changing colors.

>>2953081
Has some neat features, but isn’t polished enough. Maybe in 3 years they’ll have a really nice reliable printer. Pfft, who am I kidding, they’ll drop the line and make a new different line with its own unique issues. Creality can’t settle on one or two main printer lines, and they can’t learn from their past mistakes.

>>2953102
multimaterial is the better reason to get an AMS or similar. you can't use TPU because of the retraction but for multimaterial supports it's amazing. It just eats time essentially, same as the color swapping.

>>2953105
>but this takes much more filament than changing colors.
how do you figure?

>>2953227
People who try material switches with things like an AMU report layer adhesion problems with the standard settings. When changing materials, this is due to a thin layer of old material that lingers in the nozzle and encapsulates the new material flowing through, and which can cause bonding problems past the point where it is no longer visible.

>>2953239
I mean it works fine for me, I've been doing it ever since I found out PETG is the perfect support material for PLA. I also don't see how the nozzle residue is worse than swapping the exact same materials back and forth on a single filament printer and I've never seen or heard of problems swapping freely between materials on the same printer.

I mean you see what I'm saying? If there was any indication you shouldn't switch materials niggers here would be all like "never print X only print Y" I mean they already do but not because of material residue.

>>2953241
>petg
>pla
I mean, cool I guess. I wouldn't waste support filament on something made out of pLA, but that's just me. What about someone like me that mainlines ABS-GF and nylons? Single nozzle just wouldn't work due to temperature differences, or even work properly due to chamber temperatures.

>>2953243
chamber temp has nothing to do with the number of nozzles. but riddle me this, do you have separate printers (or do you swap heads or whatever) when switching between ABS-GF and nylon? Also is there a usecase for printing ABS-GF and nylon together?

>>2953248
I do a cold pull with HDPE if going from 260+C temp filaments down to PLA temps and the inverse.
I've got a box of clogged 0.4mm nozzles due to carburized bits of plastic or some fiber stuck in them that I've yet to clean.
I've seen bits of burnt PLA/TPU in the first few layer when switching to natural nylon and using 0.6/0.8 nozzles.
The material cost is not worth the risk of failure due to poor layer adhesion, added time, or some clogged nozzle.

>>2953241
>I also don't see how the nozzle residue is worse than swapping the exact same materials back and forth on a single filament printer
It's the same in principle, but in practice, many color-change systems cut the end off the filament, leaving a chunk in the hotend, rather than remove the entire filament. This increases the amount of purge needed to clear the old filament, and is the reason why, for example, an MMU-type color changer produces less waste than an AMS-type color changer. And with material changes between prints, any residual material that sticks around would only manifest early in the print, rather than producing weak layers in the middle that could break apart. I'm referring to things like this:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/major-interlayer-strength-differences-when-multi-material-printing/22661
https://youtu.be/S9EWITrwcqU?t=294

Anyone know how to minimize TPU stringing, or do I just take a heat gun to it real quick?

>>2953269
you mean post print? just dry your TPU mang

>>2953241
what the fuck are you doing to your ams