Thread 2950363

Hello!

My coat hanger was affixed to a wall via a wall-plug, however I drilled in at the mortar. After some years the plug fell out due to too much weight being put on the hanger. I'm wondering what the best way to go about this is.

My father recommended that I buffer the hole with some material like a napkin so that the wall-plug can stick in again, however this seems like a short-term solution. It would mean I can avoid going to the store for material, so I'm here to as a question:

1) should I drill a bigger hole and get a bigger wall-plug to go with it?
2) is there some material I can use to patch up the hole and then drill in again?
3) Is my father's solution (buffering for the wall-plug with a napkin or something) really a good idea? It would save me a trip to the store

Thank you in advance

>>2950363 (OP)
It depends on the load, if you're going to baby it, then the napkin solution can work. Other alternative is cutting one anchor in half and shoving the half into the hole. Or drilling a deeper hole and inserting a better+longer anchor.
The very proper solution would be larger hole + liquid anchor, the liquid anchor fills gaps very well and creates an extremely strong plug in any* sized hole. But the liquid anchor will grip the fastener extremely hard, so if you want to insert/remove screws at a later point, you'd have to get a full body plastic anchor (one that doesn't have big holes in the sides, like Fischer's), shove that into the liquid anchor, wait until the liquid is half-set, drive the screw, ???, very strong fixation.
The ones that have holes in them will let the liquid anchor leak in, and either make it impossible to insert or impossible to remove the screw.

Your father's solution will work, if you want a quick and cheap solution.
If you decide to patch the hole, you should drill it with a much bigger drill and then use the same material the wall is made of, ie mortar, to patch it. And then drill again for the new anchor.
But that will be a lot of work.
The solution with the liquid anchor from the anon above may be a better one.
The good thing about your dad's solution is that it involves almost no work and if it doesn't work, you can always choose another one.

>>2950393
>liquid anchor
Not OP, but I'm curious about this. I've never used it.
Can I fill a hole entirely with it, then wait a day for it to completely cure and then drill it with a HSS drill to fit a new plastic anchor?

>>2950399
It cures in minutes, depending on temperature. At 10C you might get 10-15 minutes before it turns solid, at 25C maybe 5 minutes, at 35C 1-2 minutes.
>fill a hole and then drill
It would work, provided your hole is much larger diameter, but it's better to put your anchor in while it's wet. It's probably pretty hard to drill also, not that I ever tried.
Also the proper way of using them is with a threaded rod going straight into the liquid, or optionally through a special liquid anchor plug that further reinforces the hole, but the liquid+plastic combo is also decent.

>>2950363 (OP)
fill the holes with plaster and stick new plugs in
let it set then screw back the hanger

>>2950363 (OP)
Fill in the hole with bulkier cloth or rubbermat or cork. Any thing fills gives a good grip

>>2950363 (OP)
Use chemical anchors, they grip like psych ward socks.
Or put a bigger anchor

>>2950423
This guy fucks.
I went for the maximum strength you can get with chemical anchors to hold 2 steel L brackets for hanging a 30x30cm wooden shelf for a monstera plant after the previous one fell out. The anchors are 8mm thick 100mm long steel.
Apparently there's over 7cm of plaster on my 100 year old fired brick wall to cover the curvature of a 5m long wall (its still curved as fuck).
I used regular plugs before, tightened the shelf, put 5L of water bottles on top of it to stress test and after 30m scared the shit out of my wife when it all fell from 2 meters.

>>2950363 (OP)
What’s on the other side of the brick? If it’s a void or soft insulation, you could drill all the way through and use a toggle bolt. With enough of the threaded bolt sticking out, put your washers, nut and go from there.

Story time:
>company hired me to fix a big metal box that kept falling off the wall
>deactivate & disassemble equipment in box, then pull it off the conduit / wall
>about 20 different people had tried to reattach this box over the years.
>it’s mounted to insulation foam with a thin layer of wire and stucco on the outside
>behind that is more foam. Styrofoam, spray foam, every kind of foam.
>a variety of hardware is stuck in the foam: toggle bolts, lag bolts, screws, nails, drywall anchors, concrete anchors. These people have tried it all
>until I came
>discover that the gap was full of steel conduit in a recessed exterior nook, owners wanted it covered up, so they threw foam at the problem
>Four ft. “Void” between exterior and interior electrical room
>Used 4 sticks of all-thread as tall as I am, cut the xtra off, secure to interior plywood
>mount box, put it all back together
>give it a few good kicks, it doesn’t budge
Felt good.glare