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Thread 2950558

95 posts 76 images /diy/
Anonymous No.2950558 [Report] >>2951217 >>2952026 >>2955229 >>2955237
woodworking generals
woodsisters sharing ideas
Anonymous No.2950560 [Report] >>2951217
Anonymous No.2950561 [Report] >>2951217
Anonymous No.2950562 [Report] >>2951217
Anonymous No.2950564 [Report] >>2951211 >>2951217
Anonymous No.2950568 [Report] >>2951150
Anonymous No.2950570 [Report]
Anonymous No.2950940 [Report] >>2951013
Anonymous No.2951013 [Report]
>>2950940
power tools help generate crap much faster
and they help hide crap work

OP is artisanal. We're making carryout vs fine dining.
Anonymous No.2951150 [Report]
>>2950568
Witness the turds I have polished this day.
Anonymous No.2951171 [Report] >>2951569
how do i make this nice?
Anonymous No.2951211 [Report] >>2951568
>>2950564
i was going to ask how you got good at that but then I remember what I tell people, by doing it, messing it up, and repeating until you get better. nice work anon.
Anonymous No.2951217 [Report] >>2951568
>>2950558 (OP)
>>2950560
>>2950561
>>2950562
>>2950564
I wanted to ask if you're from eastern europe because the style is oddly familiar
but the 5th photo gave it away
hai noroc vere, de cati ani te ocupi de asta?
Anonymous No.2951534 [Report] >>2951721
Where can you get small offcuts of various hard woods for cheap?
Anonymous No.2951568 [Report]
>>2951217
noroc, de vreo 6 ani
>>2951211
lots and lots of frustration, autistic fixation on detail
Anonymous No.2951569 [Report] >>2951943 >>2952531
>>2951171
with a router jig the fancy way, or with an angle grinder and sandpaper pads the cheap way
Anonymous No.2951571 [Report]
I glued up a few boards sandwiched between 2 plywood sheets to make a tabletop for a low workbench. Alas it has warped along the long axis and I'm racking my brains as to what the best method is for straightening it out. The top is 105x40x3 cm and the concavity is 0.25 cm at one end and 0.3 cm at the other.
My only idea so far is to glue and screw on straight pieces of wood at either ends and the middle running along the width to force it flat. Only question then is whether to clamp it on the concave or convex side or if it matters at all. Pic attached in case I didn't explain properly. The lines across the board is how I'd attach the aforementioned straight pieces.
Anonymous No.2951703 [Report] >>2951721
Nice craftsmanship for a start! Really cool!
…and now for something completely different:
Industrial grade shit!
That’s like the worst joint I’ve ever seen. Take the cheapest particle board, put a V-notch in it, put some fake, plastic veneer on it, fold it, done.
Surprised me that it held for that long. For a used cabinet I got for really cheap for the kids room, it wasn’t a big deal, since that was an easy fix, but apparently, that’s a name brand cabinet that cost a few hundred euros. WTF, I’d be really pissed, had I bought this POS for full price.
Anonymous No.2951721 [Report]
>>2951534
Actual mill. Pieces that have wild figuring and unique growth marks are less desirable for cabinetry where they would create nonuniformity.

>>2951703
Yeah. Work at a shop if you want to spend all day fussing with edge banding. Then they'll try to do a run of some sort of textured photo finish or whatever laser printed and clear coated sheet trash. It's not even a veneer that gives you so many millimeters to attempt to correct an issue. Commonly banding machines, cnc, or shop saws might still chatter the cuts because there's no integrity to the surface. The core is junk too, but that's generally not a problem. It's cheap for somebody to make and takes a job away from a painter or finisher.
Anonymous No.2951943 [Report]
>>2951569
thanks router jig is not expensive too
Anonymous No.2951959 [Report] >>2952025 >>2952032 >>2952053
should i get a circular saw or a router
circular saw will enable me to cut up and modify boarded furniture can't use anything else for this purpose
router could help me with perfect mortises
Anonymous No.2952025 [Report]
>>2951959
buy tools as you need them. if your project needs a circ saw get that, if you're doing mortises get that. mortising with a router though is kind of a pain since you also need a jig, which if you're not building one will cost another $100 for a reputable brand
Anonymous No.2952026 [Report] >>2952185 >>2952836
>>2950558 (OP)
you post in /wwg/ all the time why the fk didn't you follow the pastebin and title
Anonymous No.2952032 [Report] >>2952164
>>2951959
For any kind of woodworking, you need at a minimum a drill/driver, a circular saw (then a track/miter/table saw), and a router. you need some basic hand tools for measurement like rulers, tape, square, and a couple of chisels. Buy as you need them, but skilsaw and router are so fundamental, you really need both, but can start with the saw first.
Anonymous No.2952053 [Report] >>2952074 >>2952097 >>2952530
>>2951959
I was in your position and I got a skilsaw first but at that time I didn’t have a mitre saw so I’d just use the kreg cross cut joh which worked surprisingly well with the cheapest makita circular and it cuts good lap joints too

If you consider a router dont forget that you’ll want to invest in dust extraction too and goggles and a peltor unless you like having dinner covered in dust with a wood chip in your eye and tinnitus
Anonymous No.2952074 [Report]
>>2952053
2nd for hearing protection with a router, damaged my hearing for a few weeks routing out the back of this 14 foot window sill...
Anonymous No.2952097 [Report]
>>2952053
3rd for earpro, bluetooth ones are alright but be careful not to get distracted by them. I also wear a respirator all the time ever since I started monitoring air quality in my shop
Anonymous No.2952164 [Report]
>>2952032
obviously i have a drill and a shitty table saw and other hand tools but circular saw is better for boards ie sheets and hand mortising is imperfect and can lead to crooked structures
Anonymous No.2952185 [Report]
>>2952026
don't even know what that word is and to going to google it
Anonymous No.2952187 [Report] >>2952835
first frame job
things used: manual miter, a router, a chisel, already planed oak rectangles
Anonymous No.2952225 [Report] >>2952243 >>2952432
I have maybe a stupid question and know little about stick frame houses but

If everyone recommends against screwing down into end grain why do I see framing videos from other countries where professional crews build entire walls by screwing long big screws into the ends of 2x4s. Are they wrong or is it okay under certain conditions
Anonymous No.2952243 [Report]
>>2952225
in theory it isn't quite as strong but when you are building a framed wall it is just fine because pullout force isn't the load applied to the fastener, it's shear strength. also, almost all load applied to stick framing is downward which is a compressive strength problem and it only really concerns the wood pieces pressing against each other. all the other loads which can be applied side-to-side are mostly dealt with by the sheathing on the side of the framed wall. the rigid sheet of plywood keeping its rectangular shape while screwed into the framing is what gives the wall strength against these non-downward forces such as wind loads.
Anonymous No.2952432 [Report]
>>2952225
if they drill a hole first, slightly narrower than the screw thread is wide, it will be ok
Anonymous No.2952530 [Report]
>>2952053
>tinnitus
I got tinnitus while relaxing on the couch drinking a beer.
Also, I don't hear it unless someone mentions it. Thanks, fucker.
Anonymous No.2952531 [Report]
>>2951569
guy in picture is a retard.
the plywood is going to have too much flex in that orientation. Better off to rotate his guides 90 degrees and glue a runner on the bottom.
Anonymous No.2952607 [Report] >>2952608 >>2952701 >>2954206 >>2954411
anyone used this before? yay or nay?
the traditional ones that you hammer up dont work for me, bench underside is not acessible
Anonymous No.2952608 [Report]
>>2952607
I was going to say "that's gay, it shouldn't be metal" but then I zoomed in and, yeah, that's wood.
I guess it would have to be pretty sturdy wood though.
I'm just afraid of accidents with metal things and expensive plane blades and/or table saws.
I should look into aluminum screws/bolts since that's like metallic wood.
Anonymous No.2952701 [Report]
>>2952607
My bench dogs just sit snuggly in the hole. You just pull them out when you don't need them. No tools or anything.
Anonymous No.2952835 [Report]
>>2952187
did you buy hardware for the back panel
Anonymous No.2952836 [Report]
>>2952026
he works hard not smart
Anonymous No.2953253 [Report] >>2953279 >>2953312
i want to remove a belly from a plank
pass it a few times on this thing
it has more pronounced belly
what causes this? can i fix it or should i just donate this thing to some gypsy for recycling
Anonymous No.2953279 [Report]
>>2953253
either the machine is not setup right or you press too hard on both ends, flexing the board or pivoting
IMO its better to flip it and pass the hollow side over the jointer
>or should i just donate this thing to some gypsy for recycling
yes you should
Anonymous No.2953312 [Report]
>>2953253
i was planning on buying one of these
Anonymous No.2953990 [Report] >>2954019
Anonymous No.2954019 [Report]
>>2953990
i happen to be a bit of a maestro with the chisel myself...
Anonymous No.2954206 [Report]
>>2952607
ok, i ordered 3 and tried it out. works fine i guess, the alloy is really soft. Will replace the screw with a slotted one thou
Anonymous No.2954331 [Report] >>2954373
After swearing I wouldn't do it again, I did it again.
Anonymous No.2954373 [Report] >>2954378
>>2954331
it's unfortunate chinks have decided to take a loss on these to undercut hobby woodworkers
Anonymous No.2954378 [Report] >>2954381 >>2954382 >>2955023
>>2954373
I've only made the two as gifts for family and I don't have any power tools so producing them for profit would not be feasible. For me, woodworking is just a way to get away from modernity.
Anonymous No.2954381 [Report]
>>2954378
Noice

Woodworking rulz
Anonymous No.2954382 [Report] >>2954387 >>2954394
>>2954378
same, i'm just saying the novelty has worn off once the bugman steps in. nice board though. latest thing for me was whipping this up from a scrap after our last holder broke. maple and odie's
Anonymous No.2954387 [Report] >>2954393
>>2954382
That's a good idea. I should make one of those from some scrap too. We've just had the roll sitting bareback on the table like animals.
Anonymous No.2954393 [Report] >>2954403
>>2954387
i like the simple things that get used daily, my wife doesn't use any of the cutting boards i make because they're "too pretty" despite me repeatedly putting them in the dishwasher to show her i don't care
Anonymous No.2954394 [Report]
>>2954382
>the novelty has worn off
half a decade ago.
i like pieces like your towel holder more than the latest instagram meme. fills a purpose, resourceful, doesnt wank itself
Anonymous No.2954403 [Report] >>2954405
>>2954393
I only made the first cutting board because my sister put one on her wish list and I made the second one because when I showed it to my dad he, for some reason, had to have one too. Personally I like old school joinery. Those cutting boards suck donkey dick to make by hand.
Anonymous No.2954405 [Report] >>2954406
>>2954403
yeah they're a pain, i'm waiting for a motor i bought to get here to build my own belt sander. i've liked both your boards though
Anonymous No.2954406 [Report] >>2954408
>>2954405
Thank you. I got myself a wet grinder this time because making primary bevels on those thick PM-V11 blades was such a pain that I didn't want to ever sharpen my planes. That, along with judicious use of a scrub plane and much better alignment when clamping, made the second one an order of magnitude easier than the first. Still I hope this is the last one.
Anonymous No.2954408 [Report] >>2954409
>>2954406
i generally choose not to torture myself with hand planing unless it's too late to turn my shopvac + wen planer on or it's something simple like a chamfer. i do feel like jesus though every time i use them
Anonymous No.2954409 [Report] >>2954452 >>2954526
>>2954408
I can't explain why but I actually enjoy planing. There's something about putting those winding sticks on and seeing the twist, or running them over the surface like a straight edge and seeing the bow, and then slowly removing it that speaks to my grug brain.
Anonymous No.2954411 [Report] >>2954558
>>2952607
> anyone used this before? yay or nay?
No, but it looks expensive and a bit inflexible (can't move it).

>the traditional ones that you hammer up dont work for me, bench underside is not acessible
Make the hole wide enough and you'll be able to pull them out easily from the top. Can be a bit fiddly with the spring ones, though. Also, there are hat shaped bench dogs that won't ever get stuck because you can drill generous holes as long as they're smaller than the "brim" disk. Hell, I've used M20 bolts with two nuts on it as a substitute for these and it works just as well. As for "muh metal": just make sure the dogs are just half the height of the work. If the work really is that thin use an equally thin piece of scrap with thicc wooden dowels drilled through it for bracing against the dog holes.
Anonymous No.2954452 [Report]
>>2954409
no i definitely get it, when you're in the zone it's an ancestral high. a job that big though i run through the machines and save the hand effort for final details. there is something to be said though picking up a hand planed item vs machined; a spiritual difference of sorts
Anonymous No.2954509 [Report]
i dont make complex stuff and dont have actual equipment besides a shitty drill and some bits. but my job lets me make shit out of plywood scraps and occasionally they have maple and hickory bits in the scrap bin. i started experimenting with subwoofer boxes for a 65" subwoofer, just playing with volume and port sizes. i then turned one into a cajon, since it was too large for the little woofer. used back wire from work for the snare, and since it was already tuned for low frequencies, it slams like a kickdrum. i have been making a bunch of these smaller bongo/congas playing with ports. im not professional player by any means but i can teach the basics to my kids and they follow. i also made a small diner dollhouse, it was a hit.
Anonymous No.2954526 [Report] >>2954546
>>2954409
I see you’ve been to lee valley. Nice.
I like planing too, but I can’t buy that veritas plane and also eat this month.
Anonymous No.2954546 [Report]
>>2954526
I get that. Thank Christ I bought mine just before the prices skyrocketed.
Anonymous No.2954558 [Report]
>>2954411
>but it looks expensive
it does but its just 8€, getting it shipped is more expensive than the unit
Anonymous No.2954611 [Report]
Does anyone know of a good way to make veneer strips? Picrel was made with a ryoba, but I don’t have anything like that, and then you’d want to sharpen the ryoba… it’s a death spiral.
I have a table saw, but the kerf is ridiculous… most of it would be turned into sawdust.
Anonymous No.2954612 [Report] >>2954623
Does anyone know of a good way to make veneer strips? Picrel was made with a ryoba, but I don’t have anything like that, and then you’d want to sharpen the ryoba… it’s a death spiral.
I have a table saw, but the kerf is ridiculous… most of it would be turned into sawdust.
Anonymous No.2954623 [Report] >>2954638 >>2954663
>>2954612
you can get a thin kerf blade for your table saw, otherwise find a band saw
Anonymous No.2954638 [Report] >>2954663
>>2954623
Second this. A bandsaw is the correct tool for the job.
Anonymous No.2954663 [Report] >>2954667 >>2954673
>>2954623
>>2954638
> bandsaw
Ahh, yes! thanks. I have picrel saw. I just need to find or make a thin blade for it. Most of my blades are these spiral sharp wire “blades” which are no good for this.
I have some mini hacksaw blades with little pins sticking out, which should just about work.
Anonymous No.2954667 [Report] >>2954673
>>2954663
Dont bet on it, im pretty sure it wont have the power
Anonymous No.2954673 [Report]
>>2954663
this >>2954667
honestly, from what i can see in your pics of your shop, it seems like you're okay money-wise. hit up marketplace or whatever and find a bandsaw in the loot of some dead boomer. for me in san diego there's a full page ranging from $60 to $1500 and they're all more than capable of doing at least 6" wide pieces of veneer
Anonymous No.2955015 [Report]
>>2954912
I am not this anon, but I am crossposting his inquiry anyways.
Anonymous No.2955023 [Report]
>>2954378
> I don't have any power tools so producing them for profit would not be feasible. For me, woodworking is just a way to get away from modernity.
Damn. Not sure if I should pity you or envy you!
I know it’s kind of a meme, but my cutting board is rather nasty and there’s one crack that some sanding won’t fix, so that would actually be a beneficial project. Plus, my dad has a shitload of well dried cherry and apple wood from our orchards sitting around.
Guess it’s on my list after I finally built my work bench and the shelf’s to go above my bed.
Anonymous No.2955229 [Report] >>2955252
>>2950558 (OP)
R8 my table you faggits

Just put the first coat of osma 3032 satin on it
Anonymous No.2955237 [Report] >>2955252 >>2955257
>>2950558 (OP)
I'm planning on building a 8x8 L computer desk. I was gonna rip a 1/2 red oak plywood sheet in half for the top. Im planning on using 1x2 furring strip to make a frame under the top. Surrounding that will be 1x3 red oak board. I will borrow a router and round the edge over. For the legs I'm going to use 4x4 posts. Sound normal? I think it may be over built cause my current computer desk only has a 1/2 top with nothing supporting it in the middle and is ok.
Anonymous No.2955252 [Report] >>2955285 >>2955286 >>2955377
>>2955229
pretty fuckin good. what are the legs?
>>2955237
4x4s seem extreme but that's a style choice i guess. 1x3 might cut into your legs depending on how high you sit. what joinery you going with?
Anonymous No.2955257 [Report] >>2955285
>>2955237
Youre adding strength in the wrong spots. No table ever collapses through its legs but you need stiff corners and 1x3” is pretty little to act as an apron on 8’ span especially for a half inch sheet
Anonymous No.2955285 [Report] >>2955298 >>2955359 >>2955375 >>2955517
>>2955252
>>2955257
this is what im planning, so there will legs in the middle too. would anything smaller look spindly? Ive been thinking about the edge and if my legs would fit and it'll work at the height I want i think
Anonymous No.2955286 [Report]
>>2955252
and the joinery im not sure, if you mean like connecting the top sections I was gonna glue the edge and then under will be a board I will screw both ends down.
Anonymous No.2955298 [Report] >>2955304
>>2955285
my computer desk is 8ft long it has exactly one (3x2 cls) leg (and two wall cleats)
ideally you want to think more about stopping the leg from wobbling rather than...idk what you think this table will do that it needs so many legs.
are the middle legs really necessary? is the internal corner leg really necessary?
Anonymous No.2955304 [Report]
>>2955298
i dont know lol thats why i was asking. seems like i can make it and then leave those legs out and see how it is
Anonymous No.2955359 [Report] >>2955444 >>2955517
>>2955285
dude you are building a computer desk. with the plate at the correct ergonomical height, good luck getting your legs under it
Anonymous No.2955375 [Report] >>2955444
>>2955285
i say delete the center leg in the front, make the other legs match, you can add bracing at the bottom to help with racking (or add bottom shelving), switch to 2x2s for the legs and frame and 1x2s for the apron. also 1" for the top
Anonymous No.2955377 [Report] >>2955378
>>2955252
Thanks cunt. These are the legs
Anonymous No.2955378 [Report] >>2955379 >>2955380
>>2955377
chink shit, great idea. did you rout out a recess for them or bolt them directly on like a fuckface?
Anonymous No.2955379 [Report]
>>2955378
Routed em out like s good goy
Anonymous No.2955380 [Report] >>2955382
>>2955378
Braced em too, theyre sturdy as fuck, cunt
Anonymous No.2955382 [Report] >>2955384
>>2955380
nice fucken color choices of hex bolts there rabbi
Anonymous No.2955384 [Report]
>>2955382
Black on black, gold on timber. Best colour combo ever ya fucken little poofta
Anonymous No.2955444 [Report] >>2955496 >>2955553
>>2955359
I was thinking about that a lot I taped a piece of wood to my current desk and it will work for me
>>2955375
so I will use 2x2s for the legs but im trying to keep costs low. Ive thought about getting 12" boards but the one sheet of plywood is half the price than the boards and I wouldnt have to glue a bunch(I dont really have to setup for this)
Anonymous No.2955496 [Report] >>2955529
>>2955444
you're /diy/ing a desk why cheap out? if you upgrade to 1" or 1 1/4" you can pretty much get rid of the reinforcements you're doing
Anonymous No.2955517 [Report]
>>2955285
>>2955359
This guy knows. Most people when sitting correctly have very little space left between bottom of desktop and top of legs. Classic desks would have smaller aprons in the center, nowadays it’s usually fixed by using thin metal instead of thick wood or using H-shape
Anonymous No.2955529 [Report]
>>2955496
i feel that im already not cheaping out
Anonymous No.2955553 [Report]
>>2955444
It's a table, not a boat dock.
My workbench is LDF face screwed into 2x4 legs with no skirtboards or bracing. It holds bench power supplies, tool kit, solder station, 50 lbs audio units.