← Home ← Back to /diy/

Thread 2955549

13 posts 2 images /diy/
Anonymous No.2955549 [Report] >>2955559 >>2955562 >>2955644 >>2955647 >>2955751 >>2955773 >>2955794
Long time listener, first time caller here; I am in the process of relocating my hot water heater. It's a 1920s house with crawl space and all copper piping. In my picture, I have taken a length of 3/4" copper pipe and annealed it along about 18" and have used a conduit bender to no success here. As you can see, it has been a bit flattened on the radius. My thinking is that having a gradual radius vs a 90 degree fitting will alleviate any water hammering on the corner of a 90 degree fitting, therefore lengthening the life of my new pipe. Thoughts? Is this completely retarded of an idea? Nothing has been installed yet and I want to make sure this pipe lasts.
Anonymous No.2955558 [Report] >>2955570
Cap one end of the copper pipe, pack it tightly with sand, cap the other end and then try bending it with your bender. No clue on whether a sweeping 90 will help any or not, but it seems plausible.
Anonymous No.2955559 [Report] >>2955570
>>2955549 (OP)
Bending makes one side of the pipe thinner while compressing the other side. Copper is already thin so it's risky. I would just use either a water pressure reducing valve for the entire house, or a water hammer arrestor nearby wherever you are having water hammer problems. I would just stick with a 90 degree fitting.
Anonymous No.2955562 [Report] >>2955565
>>2955549 (OP)
Use PEX.
Anonymous No.2955565 [Report] >>2955566
>>2955562
No.
Anonymous No.2955566 [Report]
>>2955565
Use a folding lawn chair.
Anonymous No.2955570 [Report]
>>2955558
Damn, thanks for that help, I'll have to get the finest I can.
>>2955559
Yeah, that's my only concern and also having the flow accelerated around the bend via venturi effect. Hoping it's negligible. As long as it lasts 40+ years, I will probably be dead by the time it leaks again lol
Anonymous No.2955644 [Report] >>2955775
>>2955549 (OP)
You have to anneal the copper. Sure thing you've never worked on your diesel truck sonny boy. The copper, the gaskets n sheet they become brittle over time and break on slightest deformation. Many such cases. I wouldn't even touch those old coper tubes without heat treating them red hot and letting them cool off before.
Anonymous No.2955647 [Report]
>>2955549 (OP)
ur retarded use 2 45s if ur afraid of a 90 (lol) water hammer happens from slamming valves shut and the fast moving water overpressuring, not from flowing through a fukn 90, they also sell oatey water hammer arrestors
Anonymous No.2955751 [Report]
>>2955549 (OP)
>water hammering
Isn't caused by 90 degree bends. Where did you pick up this idea?
very middle of nowhere No.2955773 [Report]
>>2955549 (OP)
Hammer arrester. They make a device for such a reason already. Did you not ask Leo or some AI first?

You also might not 'need' an expansion tank, but it's a good idea.
Anonymous No.2955775 [Report]
>>2955644
re-read the OP, little man.
Anonymous No.2955794 [Report]
>>2955549 (OP)
Has already been said, but I'll say it anyway: consider pex for tying new work to old. Cheaper and easier to work with. Either way, don't worry about using 90s. Hammer occurs when valves open and close quickly, usually from electronic actuation (electronic bidets, touchless faucets, etc). Hammer arresters can be installed at the relevant points of use, but manual valve turning is almost never fast enough to produce hammer.
And make sure you have an expansion tank. When the hot lines are full of hot water, the pressure in the line increases. If you're not regulating incoming pressure, either the pipe or a joint will crack before its time.